Are snow peas and snap peas the same? Although these types of peas sound similar and both have an edible pod, there are significant differences between the two. Understanding the distinction allows gardeners to grow the desired type and harvest these peas at the correct stage of development.

Snap Peas vs. Snow Peas

Peas are members of the legume family. They are divided into three types: English, snap and snow peas. Peas also have two distinct growth habits. Climbing varieties have vines which extend 6 to 8 feet (1.8-2.4 m.) and can easily be grown on a trellis. Bush type peas may only reach 2 to 3 feet (.6-.9 m.) tall, but many gardeners provide support to prevent the plants from flopping onto the ground.

English peas, which are sometimes called garden or shelling peas, are harvested when the seeds are large, firm and round. The pods of this type of peas are lined with a thin layer of tough membrane, which makes the pods inedible. These peas are removed from the pod, preferably before their natural sugars turn to starch.

Neither snow peas nor snap peas have this membrane, thus their pods are edible. It's here that the similarity between snap vs snow peas ends. Snow peas, which are also called Chinese pea pods, are harvested at a very immature stage. The pods are flat and the peas inside are tiny.

Snap peas have rounded pods with a thick, fleshy wall and seeds which have begun to develop. The pod has a sweet flavor, which is why this type is sometimes called sugar snap peas. All three types of peas can have fibrous strings along the edge, but some varieties of snap peas have been bred to be stingless.

Genetic Difference Between Snap Peas and Snow Peas

It can be easy to assume that snow or snap peas are just English peas that are harvested at a young age. From a scientific standpoint, English peas (Pisum sativum var. sativum), snow peas (P. sativum var. saccharatum) and sugar snap peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon) are related, but are genetically different varieties.

Additionally, English peas originated in Eurasia, where they have been cultivated since around 7000 BCE. Snow peas are native to southwest Asia and were first grown in the 16th century.

In 1952, English peas and snow peas were crossed in hopes of developing an improved variety of English peas. Instead, a new type of pea was created with desirable attributes from both parents. The resultant snap peas had tender, edible pods, but would also produce sweet, shellable peas.

Harvesting Snow Peas vs Sugar Snap Peas

Snow pea pods are harvested when the pods reach the desired length and before the seeds begin to develop. It's best to check the seed packet as some varieties should be picked at 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.), while other cultivars will grow to 5 inches (13 cm.) before reaching the seed development stage.

Sugar snap peas can be harvested from the time the peas inside the pod begin to round out until they are nearly full-sized. If left on the vine too long, both snap and snow pea pods will become tough and fibrous. If the seeds of snap peas mature, they can be harvested and shelled like English peas.

Harvesting all types of peas regularly increases blooming and the production of new pea pods. To save seeds for next year's garden, it's necessary to allow snow or snap pea seeds to fully develop. Unlike English peas, the pods of snap and snow peas won't split open when dried on the vine.

Varieties of Snap and Snow Peas

Gardeners have a few choices when it comes to selecting snow and snap pea cultivars. Both types of peas are available in bush or climbing varieties. Some offer disease resistance, while others have an attractive flower or pod color.

Snap pea varieties

• Amish Snap
• Cascadia
• Sugar Ann
• Sugar Daddy
• Sugar Magnolia
• Super Sugar Snap
• Tendersweet

Snow pea varieties

• Avalanche
• Golden Sweet
• Little Snowpea Purple
• Mammoth Melting
• Oregon Giant
• Oregon Sugar Pod
• Snow Max
• Snow Royal

It's frustrating. You prep the soil, plant, fertilize, water and still no pea pods. The peas are all foliage and the pea pods won't form. There could be several reasons why your garden peas are not producing. Let's take a look at the top reasons you have pea plants with no pods.

Reasons for Garden Peas Not Producing

Here are the top reasons why a pea plant may not be growing or producing as it should:

Too Much Nitrogen

Nitrogen is one of the macronutrients plants need. In the case of peas, more is not better. Peas are legumes, and these types of plants have the ability to take nitrogen from the atmosphere and convert it into a form used by plants. Legumes can even add nitrogen to the soil. When peas are all foliage with little or no blossom development, too much nitrogen is often the problem.

Solution: Have the garden soil tested and only apply fertilizer if nitrogen levels are low. Use a low nitrogen fertilizer like 5-10-10 around the peas. To save this year's pea crop, pinch back the growing tips to encourage blossom development.

Too Little Nitrogen

Nutrient deficiencies can cause low plant vigor and decreased yields. If legumes fix nitrogen, how can peas become nitrogen deficient? Simple. The process of nitrogen-fixing in legumes is a symbiotic one with a specific bacterium, Rhizobium leguminosarum. If your garden soil is lacking this bacterium, you'll experience poor growing pea plants with no pods.

Solution: Compost pea plants directly in the garden after harvest. The nitrogen formed in the root nodules will be available for the next crop of vegetables and the needed bacteria will remain in the soil. First-time pea growers can introduce the correct bacteria into the garden by purchasing pea seeds inoculated with Rhizobium leguminosarum.

Other Nutritional Deficiencies

In addition to the correct nitrogen levels, peas require other macro and micronutrients. For instance, phosphorus is needed for root and flower formation as well as the development of fruit and sugar levels in peas. If your plants are growing poorly and producing no pea pods, nutritional deficiency could be the cause.

Solution: Test the soil and amend or fertilize as needed.

Poor Pollination

If your pea plants are healthy and producing an abundance of blossoms, but the pea pods won't form, then poor pollination may be the culprit. Peas pollinate by two methods, self-pollination before the flowers open and cross-pollination by bees or other insects. Pollination problems are usually confined to peas grown in a tunnel house or protected environment.

Solution: Give the pea plants a little shake during the blooming period to distribute pollen or use a fan indoors to create air flow and stimulate self-pollination.

Poor Growing Conditions

Any number of poor growing conditions can also attribute to garden peas not producing. Cold, wet springs or hot, dry weather can impede the development of root nodules and inhibit nitrogen fixing. Planting peas too late in the season can cause the plants to turn yellow and die before setting pods. Dry conditions due to lack of rain and supplemental watering during flowering and pod production can result in plants with few or no pea pods.

Solution: Peas are a cool-season crop. Choose a variety that does well in your climate. Plant in early spring for a summer crop or late summer for a fall crop. Water when rainfall is less than 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) per week.

Everyone loves peas, but when the summer temperatures start to rise, they become a less and less viable option. That’s because peas are generally cool season crops that just can’t survive in the blistering heat. While that’s always going to be somewhat true, Wando peas are better at taking the heat than most, and are specially bred to withstand the heat of summer and the southern U.S. states. Keep reading to learn more about growing Wando peas.

Wando Pea Information

What are Wando peas? Developed at the Southeastern Vegetable Breeding Laboratory as a cross between the varieties ‘Laxton's Progress’ and ‘Perfection,’ Wando peas were first released to the public in 1943. Since then, they have been a favorite of gardeners in the American South, even in zones 9 through 11, where they can be sown in midsummer to be harvested as a winter crop.

Despite their heat resistance, Wando garden pea plants are also very cold tolerant, which means they can be grown just as well in cooler climates. No matter where they are grown, they are best suited for summer planting and late season harvest, or late spring planting and summer harvest.

How to Grow Pea ‘Wando’ Plants

Wando garden pea plants are high yielding, producing an abundance of short, dark green shelling pods with seven to eight peas inside. Though not as sweet as some other varieties, the peas are very tasty fresh and also good for freezing.

The plants are sturdy and vining, usually reaching 18 to 36 inches (45-90 cm.) in height. They are reasonably resistant to drought and root knot nematodes.

Time to maturity is 70 days. Sow peas directly in the ground in the spring (before or after the last frost) for a spring to summer harvest. Sow again in midsummer for an autumn or winter crop.

Low on gardening space and you want to try your hand at growing peas? Can you grow peas indoors? The answer is yes. Growing peas indoors requires plenty of light and a bit of commitment but, in time, you will be enjoying fresh pods that you grew yourself. The trick is selecting the right variety and providing enough hours of either natural or artificial light to get plants to produce pods.

Can You Grow Peas Indoors?

Indoor gardeners rejoice. You can learn how to grow peas inside and enjoy either the sprouts in salads or fully formed pods. Plant successive crops and you can even have fresh peas year around.

An indoor pea plant needs 8 to 10 hours of bright light. You can either place it in the sunniest location of the home or use grow lights. Many varieties grow well in containers and will flourish indoors, but snap pea, snow pea and dwarf pea plants are the easiest.

Use a purchased seed starter mix or make your own with equal parts potting soil and compost. Sow seeds in flats or small containers at 2 inches apart (5 cm.). Dampen the soil and keep moist. Shoots should appear fairly quickly. Transfer the shoots to larger pots when they are 2 inches (5 cm.) tall.

How to Grow Peas Inside

Next, your indoor pea plant will need some support. Even dwarf varieties will need a little stake to keep the vines upright and out of the dirt. Use a mini trellis or a wire system to train vines vertically.

Once the shoots are 6 inches tall (15 cm.), pinch off the tops to promote branching. Pea flowers are self-pollinating so you don't have to worry about taking plants outdoors for bees and other insects to do the work.

Once you see flowers, make sure you start another crop for successive harvest. Pea pods will form quickly, usually within a couple of days from flower. From start to finish, you can be harvesting within 60 days.

Harvest Tips for Indoor Peas

If you are new to growing peas indoors, you may wonder when they are ready to harvest.

Harvest pea shoots at any time to add to salads or drape on a sandwich. These are sweet, lightly crunchy and will even work beautifully in a quick stir fry.

The pods themselves should be firm, deeply green and, for shelling varieties, smooth on the outside. If you wait for the latter to exhibit signs of the peas inside, they will be too ripe and not as tasty. Pea pods like snap or snow should be harvested before they are beginning to lose color. Use them fresh or in stir fry.

Keep sowing and you can lightly blanch and freeze extra peas for later use.

There are many varieties of pea out there. From snow to shelling to sweet, there are a lot of names that can get a little confusing and overwhelming. If you want to know that you’re choosing the right garden pea for you, it’s worth your while to do a little reading ahead of time. This article will tell you everything you need to know about the pea “Green Arrow” variety, including tips for Green Arrow pea care and harvest.

Green Arrow Pea Info

What is a Green Arrow pea? Green Arrow is a shelling pea variety, which means its pods should be allowed to grow to maturity before being harvested, then the shells should be removed and only the peas inside eaten.

At their biggest, these pods grow to about 5 inches (13 cm.) in length, with 10 to 11 peas inside. The Green Arrow pea plant grows in a vining habit but is small as peas go, usually reaching only 24 to 28 inches (61-71 cm.) in height.

It is resistant to both fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. Its pods usually grow in pairs and reach maturity in 68 to 70 days. The pods are easy to harvest and shell, and the peas inside are bright green, tasty, and excellent for eating fresh, canning, and freezing.

How to Grow a Green Arrow Shelling Pea Plant

Green Arrow pea care is very easy and similar to that of other pea varieties. Like all vining pea plants, it should be given a trellis, fence, or some other support to climb up as it grows.

Seeds can be planted directly in the ground in the cool season, either well before the last frost of spring or late in the summer for a fall crop. In climates with mild winters, it can be planted in the fall and grown straight through winter.

with Teo Spengler

If you’re looking for a plump, tender pea, Dwarf Gray Sugar pea is an heirloom variety that doesn’t disappoint. Dwarf Gray Sugar pea plants are bushy, prolific plants that reach heights of 24 to 30 inches (61-76 cm.) at maturity but are known to get somewhat larger.

Growing Dwarf Gray Sugar Peas

Gardeners love this pea plant for its lovely purple blossoms and early harvest. The Grey Sugar bush pea bears small pods that are delightfully sweet and delicious with a crisp texture. They are usually eaten in the pod, either raw, steamed, or in stir-fries. The reddish lavender flowers add color to the garden, and because the blooms are edible, they can be used to perk up a green salad.

If you read up on the plant, you’ll find many good reasons to consider this variety. Those growing Dwarf Grey Sugar peas report that the pods are plump, fleshy, and very tender and suggest that you harvest them young. However, don’t take the “dwarf” label as a sign that these are truly small plants. They can, and often do, grow to 4 or even 5 feet (1-1.5 m.) tall.

These sugar peas grow well in both northern and southern states, and are heat and cold tolerant. They thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Caring for Dwarf Gray Sugar peas is uninvolved as long you provide plenty of moisture and bright sunlight.

Dwarf Gray Sugar peas prefer cool weather and can be planted as soon as the soil can be safely worked in spring. You can also plant a later crop about two months before the last frost.

Peas prefer fertile, well-drained soil. Drainage is very important, and sandy soils work best. Check your soil pH, and, if necessary, adjust it to above 6.0 by using lime or wood ash. Dig in a generous amount of compost or well-rotted manure a few days prior to planting. You can also work in a handful of general purpose fertilizer.

To get started, direct sow the seeds, allowing 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) between each seed, into the prepared garden plot. Cover the seeds with about an inch (2.5 cm.) of soil. Rows should be 16 to 18 inches (40-46 cm.) apart. Watch for them to sprout in about a week’s time. The peas grow best in a sunny or partially sunny location. Peas require no thinning but do need regular irrigation.

Dwarf Gray Sugar Pea Care

Water your seedlings regularly to keep the soil moist but never soggy. Increase watering slightly when the peas begin to bloom. Irrigate Dwarf Gray Sugar pea plants early in the day or use a soaker hose or drip irrigation system so the plants have time to dry before dusk.

Apply a thin layer of dried grass clippings, straw, dry leaves, or other organic mulch when the plants are about 6 inches (15 cm.) tall. Mulch keeps weeds in check and prevents the soil from becoming too dry.

A trellis installed at planting time isn’t absolutely necessary for Dwarf Sugar Grey pea plants, but it will keep the vines from sprawling on the ground. A trellis also makes the peas easier to pick.

Dwarf Gray Sugar pea plants don’t need much fertilizer, but you can apply a small amount of general-purpose fertilizer every four weeks. Remove weeds when they are small, as they will rob moisture and nutrients from the plants. Be careful not to disturb the roots.

Dwarf Gray Sugar pea plants are ready to harvest about 70 days after planting. Pick peas every few days, beginning when the pods begin to fill out. Don’t wait until the pods get too fat or tenderness will be lost. If the peas grow too large for eating whole, you can remove the shells and eat them like regular garden peas. Pick peas even if they’re past their prime. By picking regularly, you stimulate production of more peas.

If you are looking for a sugar pea plant with bright and lovely flowers followed by sweet pods, then this is definitely the plant for you.

What are Snowflake peas? A type of snow pea with crisp, smooth, succulent pods, Snowflake peas are eaten whole, either raw or cooked. Snowflake pea plants are upright and bushy, reaching a mature height of about 22 inches (56 cm.). If you’re looking for a sweet, succulent pea, Snowflake may be the answer. Read on for more Snowflake pea information and learn about growing Snowflake peas in your garden.

Growing Snowflake Peas

Plant Snowflake peas as soon as the soil can be worked in spring and all danger of hard freeze has passed. Peas are cool weather plants that will tolerate light frost, however, they don’t perform well when temperatures exceed 75 degrees F. (24 C.).

Snowflake peas prefer full sunlight and fertile, well-drained soil. Dig in a generous amount of compost or well-rotted manure a few days prior to planting. You can also work in a small amount of general purpose fertilizer.

Allow 3 to 5 inches (8-13 cm.) between each seed. Cover the seeds with about 1 ½ inches (4 cm.) of soil. Rows should be 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.) apart. Your Snowflake peas should germinate in about a week.

 Snowflake Snow Pea Care

Water Snowflake pea plants as needed to keep the soil moist but never soggy, as peas need consistent moisture. Increase watering slightly when the peas begin to bloom. Water early in the day or use a soaker hose or drip irrigation system so the peas can dry before dusk.

Apply 2 inches (5 cm.) of straw, dried grass clippings, dry leaves, or other organic mulch when the plants are about 6 inches (15 cm.) tall. Mulch suppresses growth of weeds and helps keep the soil evenly moist.

A trellis isn’t absolutely necessary for Snowflake pea plants, but it will provide support, especially if you live in a windy climate. A trellis also makes the peas easier to pick.

Snowflake pea plants don’t require a lot of fertilizer, but you can apply a small amount of general-purpose fertilizer once every month throughout the growing season. Remove weeds as soon as they appear, as they will rob moisture and nutrients from the plants. However, be careful not to disturb the roots.

Snowflake pea plants are ready to harvest about 72 days after planting. Pick peas every few days, beginning when the pods begin to fill out. Don’t wait until the pods get too fat. If the peas grow too large for eating whole, you can remove the shells and eat them like regular garden peas.

with Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

Oregon Sugar Pod snow peas are very popular garden plants. They produce large double pods with a delicious flavor. If you want to grow Oregon Sugar Pod peas, you’ll be delighted to learn that they are not demanding plants. Read on for information on the pea Oregon Sugar Pod.

What are Oregon Sugar Pod Peas?

Sugar peas are in the legume family. They not only give a wide range of vitamins and minerals to recipes, but they also fix nitrogen in soil, enhancing its nutrient capacity. The Oregon Sugar Pod pea plant was developed by Dr. James Baggett for the Oregon State University. The plant is named after the university where it was created – bred for its disease resistance and dwarf stature.

These pea pods can be grown in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 9, providing a vegetable useful in gardens even in northern zones. The plants are resistant to powdery mildew, mosaic virus and common wilt. Sugar pod peas are easy to grow and suitable for children and novice gardeners.

Pea pods have little to no string, crisp but tender pods and crunchy sweet peas. Since you can eat the entire pod, they are quick to prepare or make a wonderful snack in lunchboxes or at the dinner table.

Growing Oregon Sugar Pod Peas

If you want to start growing Oregon Sugar Pod peas, you’ll find that the plants are extremely hardy, high yielding vines. The flat pods are about 4 inches (10 cm.) long, and a vibrant shade of green. Growing Oregon Sugar Pod peas is easier than growing vines, since they are bush peas, only 36 to 48 inches (90-120 cm.) tall. The bright green pods are crisp and tender, with tiny, very sweet peas inside.

Oregon Sugar Pod Pea plants generally produce pea pods in groups of two. This accounts for the generous harvest, since most pea plants only produce single pods. If planted every few weeks, you will have continuous pods to harvest and use. Sow seeds in early spring or late summer for a fall crop.

As soon as soil can be worked, till the bed deeply and incorporate well-rotted organic material. Plant seeds an inch (2.5 cm.) deep and 3 inches (7.6 cm.) apart in full sun. If you want a fall crop, sow seeds in July. Expect germination in 7 to 14 days.

Oregon Sugar Pod Snow Peas

You’ll find that this variety is a great choice for the short season of cooler climates. Keep the area well weeded and protect young plants from birds with netting. Peas need plenty of water but should never be kept soggy.

They grow fast to be ready for harvest in around 60 to 65 days. You will know the peas are ready to harvest by their appearance. Pick these peas before the peas inside can be seen protruding from the pod. Pods should be firm, deeply green and have a light sheen.

You can also get multiple harvests from Oregon Sugar Pod peas. Watch your plants, and when the young pods are big enough for salads, you can harvest and watch them grow again. Some who grow Oregon Sugar Pod peas report getting up to four different harvests in a single growing season.

These delicious snow peas offer oodles of vitamins including Vitamins A, B and C. The entire pod is edible and sweet, earning it the French name “Mangetout,” meaning “eat it all.” The crunchy pods work very well in stir-fries and provide a sweet crunch in salads.If you have too many to eat immediately, blanch for 2 minutes in hot water, cool in ice and freeze them. They will make a memorable meal in vegetable-scarce winter.

I consider peas to be a real harbinger of spring since they are one of the first things out of my garden at the start of the growing season. There are numerous sweet pea varieties available, but if you’re looking for an early season crop, try growing the ‘Daybreak’ pea variety. What are Daybreak pea plants? The following contains information on how to grow and care for Daybreak peas.

What are Daybreak Peas?

The ‘Daybreak’ pea variety is an early, sweet, shelling pea notable for its compact vines which make the plants perfect for small garden spaces or container gardening. Just remember if growing Daybreak peas in a container to provide a trellis for them to clamber up. Daybreak matures in about 54 days and is resistant to fusarium wilt. This cultivar only reaches to about 24 inches (61 cm.) in height. Again, perfect for small scale gardens. Daybreak peas are great for freezing and, of course, eaten fresh.

How to Grow Daybreak Peas

Peas absolutely need two things: cool weather and a support trellis. Plan to plant peas when temperatures are between 60-65 F. (16-18 C.). Seeds can be sown directly outside or started 6 weeks prior to the average last frost for your area. Peas should be planted in an area that is well-drained, rich in organic matter, and in full sun. The composition of the soil affects eventual yield. Soil that is sandy facilitates early pea production, while clay soils produce later but larger yields. Plant pea seeds 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and 2 inches (5 cm.) apart and water in well. Keep the peas consistently moist but not sodden, and water at the base of the plant to prevent fungal infection. Fertilize the vines midseason. Pick the peas when the pods are full but before the peas have a chance to harden. Shell and eat or freeze the peas as soon as possible from harvest. The longer the peas sit around, the less sweet they become as their sugars are turned into starch.

A sugar snap pea is a true delight to pick right out of the garden and eat fresh. These sweet, crunchy peas, which you eat pod and all, are best fresh but can also be cooked, canned, and frozen. If you just can’t get enough, try adding some Super Snappy pea plants to your fall garden, which produce the largest of all sugar snap pea pods.

Sugar Snappy Pea Info

Burpee Super Snappy peas are the biggest of the sugar snap peas. The pods contain between eight and ten peas. You can let the pods dry and remove just the peas to use, but like other sugar snap pea varieties, the pod is just as delicious. Enjoy the entire pod with peas fresh, in savory dishes like stir fries, or preserve them by freezing. For a pea, Super Snappy is unique among varieties in that it does not need a support on which to grow. The plant will only grow to about 2 feet tall (0.5 m.), or a little taller, and is sturdy enough to stand on its own.

How to Grow Super Snappy Garden Peas

These peas take 65 days to go from seeds to maturity, so if you live in zones 8 through 10, you can directly sow them in spring or fall and get a double harvest. In colder climates, you may need to start indoors in the spring and direct sow mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. You may want to use an inoculate on the seeds before planting if you have not bought a product that is already inoculated. This process allows the legumes to fix nitrogen from the air, which leads to better growth. This isn’t a necessary step, especially if you have successfully grown peas in the past without inoculate. Directly sow or start seeds in cultivated soil with compost. Space the seeds about 2 inches (5 cm.) apart and to a depth of about one inch (2.5 cm.). Once you have seedlings, thin them until they stand just about 10 inches (25.5 cm.) apart. Keep your pea plant well watered but not soggy. Harvest your Super Snappy peas when the pods are fat, bright green, and crisp but before the peas inside are fully developed. If you want to use the peas only, leave them on the plant longer. They should be easy to pick off the plant by hand.

For a shelling or English pea, Thomas Laxton is a great heirloom variety. This early pea is a good producer, grows tall, and does best in the cooler weather of spring and fall. The peas are wrinkly and sweet, and have a delightfully sweet flavor that make them great for fresh eating.

Thomas Laxton Pea Plant Info

Thomas Laxton is a shelling pea, also known as an English pea. As compared to sugar snap peas, with these varieties you do not eat the pod. You shell them, dispose of the pod, and eat only the peas. Some English varieties are starchy and are best for canning. But Thomas Laxton produces sweet-tasting peas that you can eat fresh and raw or use immediately for cooking. These peas also freeze well if you need to preserve them. This heirloom pea from the late 1800s produces pods of about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm.) in length. You’ll get eight to ten peas per pod, and you can expect the plants to produce fairly abundantly. The vines grow up to 3 feet (one meter) tall and do require some sort of structure to climb, such as a trellis or fence.

How to Grow Thomas Laxton Peas

This is an early variety, with a time to maturity of about 60 days, so growing Thomas Laxton peas is best when started in early spring or late summer. The plants will stop producing during the hot days of summer. You can start indoors or sow directly outside, depending on the weather and climate. With Thomas Laxton pea planting in spring and late summer, you will get two tasty harvests. Sow your seeds in well-drained, rich soil to a depth of one inch (2.5 cm.) and thin seedlings so that the plants are about 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. You may use an inoculant if you choose before sowing the seeds. This will help the plants fix nitrogen and can lead to better growth. Water pea plants regularly, but don’t let the soil get soggy. Thomas Laxton resists powdery mildew fairly well. Harvest pea pods when they are bright green and plump and round. Don’t wait until you can see ridges in the pods formed by the peas. This means they have passed their prime. You should be able to pull the pods easily from the vine. Shell the peas and use within a day or two or freeze them for later.

Sugar Ann snap peas are earlier than sugar snap by several weeks. Snap peas are wonderful because they produce a crunchy, chewable shell, making the whole pea edible. The sweet pods have a crisp snap and the plant produces copious quantities of them. Sugar Ann pea plants are easy to grow, low maintenance, and early season veggies. Continue reading for some tips on growing Sugar Ann peas.

Sugar Ann Pea Facts

Spring means the first vegetables of the season, and Sugar Ann pea plants are right at the top of the produce available. What are Sugar Ann peas? They are not shelling peas, since you eat the entire tasty pod. The pods are delicious fresh or cooked and add flair to salads, stir fries, and dunked in your favorite dip. Snap peas are the early birds of the growing season. Sugar Ann pea facts indicate that this variety will come 10 to 14 days ahead of the original Sugar Snap variety. From seed to table, you only have to wait 56 days. Sugar Ann is a string-less pea that was an All-American Selections winner in 1984. The pods are 3 inches long (7.5 cm.) and bright green. It is a vine type, but the vines are short and compact and rarely need staking. Snap peas are plumper and thicker than snow peas, with a pleasant bite. The little vines are also ornamentally attractive with pretty, white, classic, legume flowers and curling tendrils.

Growing Sugar Ann Peas

Snap peas couldn't be easier to grow. Sow seeds directly into a well-worked bed in early spring. You can also sow seeds late in the season for a fall crop in some regions. Expect germination in 6 to 10 days if you keep the soil moderately moist. Snap peas prefer cool temperatures. They will stop producing and vines will die when temperatures go above 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 C.). The plants grow just 10 to 15 inches tall (25.5 to 38 cm.) and are fairly robust. They can even be grown in containers without needing a trellis or much support.

Care of Sugar Ann Snap Peas

Snap peas prefer full sun and soil that drains well. Before you plant, incorporate some well-rotted compost to enhance the nutrient content of the soil. Young plants may be bothered by cutworms, snails, and slugs. Place an empty toilet paper roll around the seedlings to protect them. Use slug bait or beer traps to minimize damage. Snap peas need to be kept moist but not soggy. Water when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. Harvest peas when the pod is plump but not bumpy. These are marvelous vegetables with easy to grow simplicity and speedy production.

Shelling peas that produce prolifically and have a delicious flavor are great to grow for fresh use and also to can and stock the freezer for winter. Consider the Survivor pea plant if you are looking for a unique variety that will give you a lot of peas with a time to maturity of just over two months.

What are Survivor Peas?

For a shelling pea, Survivor plants are desirable for a number of reasons. This variety is self-trellising, so you don’t need to plant it against some type of structure to support its growth. It produces a lot of peas that are easy to pick, and it takes just 70 days to reach maturity from seed. Of course, the flavor of the pea is also important, and this one is superior. The Survivor variety of pea was originally developed for commercial growing and to be harvested by machine because of its high-quality flavor and abundant production of pods. It is an avila-type pea, which means it has mostly tendrils at the top of the plant rather than leaves. Each Survivor pea plant you grow will reach about 2 feet (0.5 m.) tall and will produce abundant pods that hold about eight peas each. As a shelling pea, you won’t be able to eat the pods. Instead, shell the peas and eat them fresh or cooked, or preserve them by canning or freezing.

Growing Survivor Peas

Survivor pea cultivation is not difficult and is similar to that of other pea varieties. You can sow the seeds right in the ground and then thin the seedlings until they are spaced about 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm.). Alternatively, start these seeds indoors before the last frost of spring and transplant them to the garden with the same spacing. You can grow Survivor peas when the weather is cooler and get two harvests in late spring or early summer and again in mid-fall. Make sure the soil you grow the plants in soil that drains well and is rich enough to provide adequate nutrients. Water your seedlings and plants regularly, but avoid soggy soil. After about 70 days from sowing the seeds, you should be ready to hand pick and shell your Survivor pea pods.

With a name like ‘Sugar Daddy’ snap peas, they had better be sweet. And those who grow Sugar Daddy peas say you won’t be disappointed. If you are ready for a truly string-free snap pea, Sugar Daddy pea plants might be the ones for your garden. Read on for information on growing Sugar Daddy peas.

About Sugar Daddy Pea Plants

Sugar Daddy peas have a lot going for them. They are bush vine peas that grow fast and furiously. In two short months, the plants are laden with tightly packed pods at every node. Before you grow Sugar Daddy peas, you’ll want to know the type of garden space you are committing. The plants grow to 24 inches (61 cm.) tall, and each tender, curved pod is about 3 inches (8 cm.) long. They are deliciously sweet tossed into salads or cooked in stir-fries. Some claim that they are best munched right off the pea plants. Sugar Daddy snap peas are a hardy cool-season crop. They aren’t picky about maintenance and, since they are bush-type vines, they can grow with a small trellis or without one.

Growing Sugar Daddy Peas

If you want to start growing Sugar Daddy peas, direct sow the seeds in spring as soon as you can work the soil for a summer harvest. Or you can sow seeds of the pea ‘Sugar Daddy’ in July (or about 60 days before the first frost) for a fall crop. To start growing Sugar Daddy peas, plant the seeds in a full sun location in fertile soil. Work in organic compost before you sow. Plant the seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep and 3 inches (8 cm). apart. Space the rows 2 feet (61 cm.) apart. If you want to put in supports, do this at the time of planting. Birds love peas Sugar Daddy just as much as you do, so use netting or floating row covers if you don’t want to share. Irrigate the plants regularly, but take care not to get water on the leaves. Weed the pea bed well to give your Sugar Daddy pea plants the best chance to thrive. Harvest your crop when the peas fill out the pea pods, about 60 to 65 days after planting.

If you can't wait for the first taste of produce out of your garden, an early spring pea variety might be the answer to your wishes. What are spring peas? These tasty legumes germinate when temperatures are still cool and grow rapidly, producing pods in as little as 57 days. Late summer is also a good time for growing spring peas, provided they are germinated in a cool location.

What are Spring Peas?

The Spring pea variety is a shelling pea. There are several other types of peas that are early producers but only this cultivar is called Spring pea. By all accounts, this is one of the sweetest pea varieties available. This is an easy-to-grow, low maintenance plant that offers a lot of flavor and yield. The pea Spring plant is a medium sized variety with heart-shaped leaves and classic legume flowers. Mature plants will spread 8 inches (20.5 cm.) across and 20 inches (51 cm.) wide. The pods are 3 inches (7.5 cm.) long and can contain 6 to 7 plump peas. This heirloom variety is open pollinated. Peas are best direct sown, either 2 to 4 weeks before the date of the last frost or in a cool, semi-shady location in late summer for a fall crop. The Spring pea cultivar is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 9.

Growing Spring Peas

Peas prefer well-draining soil with average fertility. Directly sow seeds in prepared soil in full sun. Plant seeds ½ inch (1.5 cm.) deep and 2 inches (5 cm.) apart in rows 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. Seedlings should emerge in 7 to 14 days. Thin these to 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. Keep the pea seedlings moderately moist and remove weeds as they occur. Protect seedlings from insects with a floating row cover. They will also need to be protected from slugs and snails. Overhead watering can cause powdery mildew in some warm, wet regions. Watering under the leaves can help prevent this disease. The Spring pea cultivar is at its best when eaten fresh. Pods should be plump, round, green, and have a bit of sheen on the pod. One the pod forms bumps, the pea is too old and will not taste good. Fresh peas are great but sometimes you have too many to eat at once. That is okay, since peas freeze great. Shell the peas, blanch them lightly, shock them with cold water, and freeze them in zippered freezer bags. The taste of “spring” will last in your freezer for up to 9 months.

What are Mr. Big peas? As the name suggests, Mr. Big peas are big, fat peas with a tender texture and a gigantic, rich, sweet flavor. If you’re looking for a flavorful, easy-to-grow pea, Mr. Big may be just the ticket. Mr. Big peas are easy to pick, and they remain firm and fresh on the plant even if you’re a little late to the harvest. As an added bonus, Mr. Big peas tend to be resistant to powdery mildew and other diseases that often afflict pea plants. If your next question is how to grow Mr. Big peas, you’ve come to the right place. Read on to learn more about growing Mr. Big peas in your vegetable garden.

Tips on Mr. Big Pea Care

Plant Mr. Big peas as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. In general, peas don’t do well when temperatures exceed 75 degrees (24 C.). Allow 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) between each seed. Cover the seeds with about 1 ½ inches (4 cm.) of soil. Rows should be 2 to 3 feet (61-91.5 cm.) apart. Watch for seeds to germinate in 7 to 10 days. Water Mr. Big pea plants as needed to keep the soil moist but never soggy. Increase watering slightly when the peas begin to bloom. Provide a trellis or other type of support when the vines begin growing. Otherwise, the vines will sprawl across the ground. Keep weeds in check, as they will draw moisture and nutrients from the plants. However, be careful not to disturb Mr. Big’s roots. Harvest Mr. Big peas as soon as the peas have filled out. Although they will keep on the vine for a few days, the quality is best if you harvest them before they reach full size. Harvest peas even if they’re old and shriveled, as leaving them on the vine will prevent production of new peas.

Few things taste better straight from the garden than a crisp, fresh, and sweet sugar snap pea. If you’re looking for a good variety for your garden, consider Sugar Bon pea plants. This is a smaller, more compact variety that still produces a heavy yield of delicious pea pods and that has some disease resistance.

What are Sugar Bon Peas?

When it comes to a great, versatile variety of pea, Sugar Bon is hard to beat. These plants produce high-quality pea pods of about 3 inches (7.5 cm.) in abundance. But they are also dwarf, growing in height to just about 24 inches (61 cm.), which makes them ideal for small spaces and container gardening. The flavor of the Sugar Bon pea is deliciously sweet, and the pods are crisp and juicy. These are ideal for enjoying fresh right off the plant and in salads. But you can also use Sugar Bons in cooking: stir fry, sauté, roast, or even can or freeze them to preserve that sweet taste. Another great quality of Sugar Bon is that the time to maturity is just 56 days. You can start them in spring for a summer harvest and in late summer or early fall, depending on your climate, for a fall to winter harvest. In warmer climates, like zones 9 through 11, this is a great winter crop.

Growing Sugar Bon Peas

Sugar Bon peas are easy to grow simply by sowing seeds directly into the ground. Just be sure that there is no risk of frost. Sow about one inch (2.5 cm.) deep and thin seedlings until those left are 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm.) tall. Sow the seeds where they will have a trellis to climb, or transplant the seedlings so that there is some structure to support the growing vine. Sugar Bon pea care is pretty simple after your seedlings are in place. Water regularly, but avoid letting the soil get too damp. Watch out for pests and signs of disease, but this variety will resist many common pea diseases, including downy mildew. Your Sugar Bon pea plants will be ready for harvesting when the pods look mature and are round and bright green. Peas that are past their prime on the vine are duller green and will show some ridges on the pod from the seeds inside.

If you want an heirloom pea, try growing Little Marvel peas. What are Little Marvel peas? This variety has been around since 1908 and provided gardeners with generations of sweet, vigorous peas. Little Marvel pea plants are a shelling variety with big yields but small plants, perfect for small gardens.

What are Little Marvel Peas?

Small space gardeners rejoice. There is a semi-dwarf pea plant that produces copious peas on diminutive plants. If you thought there was no way you could grow your own shelling peas, Little Marvel pea plants will prove you wrong. Best of all, the peas stay sweet and tender even when fully ripe. The variety of pea ‘Little Marvel’ is a compact plant that will produce a lot of tasty peas. Little Marvel garden pea was introduced in the early 1900's by Sutton and Sons of Reading, England. It is a cross of 'Chelsea Gem' and 'Sutton's A-1.' This hardy plant grows 30 inches (76 cm.) tall and produces 3 inch (8 cm.) long pods. The pea Little Marvel does not need staking and grows in USDA zones 3 to 9. Start them as soon as the ground is workable and you will be enjoying peas in 60 days.

Growing Little Marvel Peas

Little Marvel Garden pea should be planted in well drained, sandy loam with a pH of 5.5 to 6.7. Start seed six to eight weeks before your expected last date of frost. Plant seeds 1.5 inches (4 cm.) deep and 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) apart in full sun. Expect germination in seven to ten days or quicker if you soak seed in water for 24 hours prior to planting. Peas don't love to be transplanted but can be started in a cold frame in cooler climates. Little Marvel is small enough and produces well in a container, too. You can also plant seeds in midsummer for a fall crop, but don't expect yields to be as high as plants started in spring. Peas need average amounts of moisture but should not be allowed to dry out. They can get powdery mildew with overhead watering in warm weather, but drip irrigation can prevent this. If you prepared your soil with plenty of organic matter, the plants do not need fertilizing. In fact, peas actually improve soil by harvesting nitrogen and fixing it in the soil. Harvest peas when the pods are plump. With many peas, you need to be on the harvest frequently to get the best pods before they are too old. Little Marvel holds better on the plant so harvest time isn't as crucial. Expect bowls full of sugary sweet peas.

Dark Seeded Early Perfection, also known as just Early Perfection, is a variety of pea that gardeners love for its flavor and for how easy the plant is to grow. As an early variety, you can grow these peas in the cooler days of early spring or in the crisp weather of fall, or both to get a double harvest.

Early Perfection Pea Information

For a pea, Early Perfection is a tough plant that is easy to grow. It resists drought and several diseases, including fusarium wilt. It’s also a prolific producer, even if you have poor soil. Fall is a great time to get started with Early Perfection, as these peas prefer temperatures below 70 degrees F. (21 C.). Early Perfection vines grow to about 30 inches (76 cm.) in length. You’ll get an abundance of 3 inch (8 cm.) pea pods that contain seven to ten peas. They are tender and sweet but also hold up well when canned or frozen.

Growing Early Perfection Peas

The Early Perfection pea plant is an easy one to grow. Based on the Perfection variety, this newer cultivar was developed to grow and produce twice a year, in spring and in the fall. It’s easy to grow because it tolerates some poor conditions, like low-nutrient soil and drought, and resists some diseases. Depending on the time of year and climate in which you’re starting Early Perfection, you can either begin them indoors and transplant outside or sow the seeds directly in your vegetable beds. Either way, the time to maturity will be about 66 days. Your pea plants will need a sunny spot with good draining soil and something to climb. A trellis, fence, or wall will work. Place transplants, or thin seedlings directly sown, so that they are about 4 inches (10 cm.) apart. Although Early Perfection pea plants are relatively tough, you’ll get the most out of them by providing the best conditions. Amend your soil with compost or fertilizer to make sure there are adequate nutrients and water regularly throughout the growing season. This pea will resist wilt but is susceptible to mosaic virus and mildew, so avoid planting them where you have previously grown other legumes. The diseases may survive in the soil and infect new legumes, like your Early Perfection peas. Leafhoppers may also be a problem, but look out for them and use water to spray them off the leaves.

When a company names a pea ‘Avalanche.’ gardeners anticipate a big harvest. That’s just what you get with Avalanche pea plants. They produce impressive loads of snow peas in summer or fall. If you’ve been thinking of planting peas in your garden, read on for information about Avalanche snow peas.

About Avalanche Pea Plants

Crisp and sweet, snow peas make a delightful addition to salads and stir-fries. If you’re a fan, consider planting your own crop of Avalanche snow peas. When you plant the pea ‘Avalanche’ in your garden, these plants shoot up much quicker than you might anticipate. Avalanche peas go from seed to harvest in some two months. When the crop comes in, it might justly be called an avalanche. With Avalanche snow peas in your garden, you get healthy plants and big harvests. That means mountains of crisp, tender peas in record time.

Avalanche Pea Cultivation

Avalanche pea plants are not difficult to grow even if you don’t have a lot of space. They are compact plants, only growing to about 30 inches (76 cm.) tall. Don’t expect to see a jungle of leaves on the plants though. They are semi-leafless, which means that more of their energy goes into producing the mountains of deep green pea pods than foliage. There’s another advantage of Avalanche pea cultivation. With fewer leaves, it is easy to spot and harvest pods. How to grow avalanche peas, you ask? It’s easier to grow Avalanche snow peas than many other types of peas since the compact plants don’t require staking. The trick to easy pea cultivation is to plant several rows close together. When Avalanche peas grow back to back, the plants intertwine, propping each other up nicely. Like other pea varieties, Avalanche peas give you the best crop when planted in a direct sun location. They need well-draining soil, preferably moist and fertile. If you are worried about diseases, you can relax. Avalanche plants are resistant to both fusarium wilt and powdery mildew.

When people think of peas, they think of the tiny green seed (yes, it’s a seed) alone, not the exterior pod of the pea. That’s because English peas are shelled prior to being eaten, but there are also several edible pod pea varieties. Peas with edible pods were made for lazy cooks because let’s face it, shelling peas is time consuming. Interested in growing edible pod peas? Read on for more edible pod pea info.

What are Edible Pod Peas?

Edible pod peas are peas where the parchment has been bred out of the pod so the young pods stay tender. While there are a number of edible pod pea varieties, they come from two ilks: the Chinese pea pod (also known as snow pea or sugar pea) and snap peas. Chinese pea pods are flat pods with insignificant peas inside that are commonly used in Asian cuisine. Snap peas are a relatively new type of pea with edible pods. Developed by Dr. C. Lamborn of the Gallatin Valley Seed Co. (Rogers NK Seed Co.), snap peas have fat pods filled with prominent peas. They are available in both bush and pole types as well as stringless.

Additional Edible Pea Pod Info

Pods of edible pea pods can be allowed to mature and then harvested and shelled for use just as English peas. Otherwise, they should be harvested when young and still tender. That said, snap peas have a thicker pod wall than snow peas and are eaten near maturity just like snap beans. All peas produce better with cool temperatures and are early producers in spring. As temperatures warm, the plants begin to rapidly mature, shortening the production of peas.

Growing Edible Pod Peas

Peas grow best when temperatures are between 55 and 65 degrees F. (13-18 C.). Plan to sow seeds six to eight weeks prior to the last expected killing frost in your region when the soil is about 45 degrees F. (7 C.) and can be worked. Peas thrive in well-drained sandy soil. Sow seed an inch (2.5 cm.) deep and spaced 5 inches (13 cm.) apart. Set up a trellis or other support for the pea vines to clamber up or plant them next to an existing fence. Keep the plants consistently moist but not drenched. Ample water will allow the pods to develop with the tenderest, plumpest peas, but too much will drown the roots and promote disease. For a continuous supply of edible pea pods, stagger plantings throughout the spring.

Many gardeners list tomato as the veggie most noticeably better tasting when grown at home, but peas are also up there on the list. Lincoln pea plants grow well in cool weather, so spring and fall are the seasons to put them in. Those who grow Lincoln peas in the garden rave about the low-maintenance requirements for these legume plants and the incredibly sweet, delicious flavor of the peas. If you are thinking of planting peas, read on for more information and tips on how to grow Lincoln peas.

Pea ‘Lincoln’ Information

Lincoln peas are hardly the new kids on the block. Gardeners have engaged in Lincoln pea growing since the seeds came on the market in 1908, and Lincoln pea plants have many fans. It’s easy to see why this is a popular type of pea. Lincoln pea plants are compact and easy to trellis. That means that you can grow them quite close together and get an abundant harvest.

How to Grow Lincoln Peas

Even with just a few plants, Lincoln pea growing will bring you a high yield. The plants produce many pods, each packed with six to nine extra-large peas. Tightly filled, the pods are easy to harvest from the garden. They are also easy to shell and dry well for next year’s seeds. Many gardeners can’t resist eating Lincoln peas from the garden fresh, even right from the pods. You can freeze any peas left over as well. If you are wondering how to grow Lincoln peas, you’ll be happy to hear that it’s not very difficult in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. From germination to harvest is about 67 days. Lincoln pea growing is easiest in well-draining, sandy loam soil. Of course, you’ll need a site that gets full sun and regular irrigation from rain or hose is essential. If you want pea vines, space Lincoln pea plants a few inches (8 cm.) apart. They are compact and grow to 30 inches (76 cm.) high with a 5 inch (13 cm.) spread. Stake them up with a small pea fence or trellis. Lincoln peas in the garden can also be grown in bush form. If you don’t want to stake them, grow them this way. Plant these peas as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. Lincoln pea plants are also great as a fall crop. If that’s your intention, sow them in late summer.

Gardeners love growing peas for a variety of reasons. Often among one of the first crops to be planted out into the garden in the spring, peas come with a wide range of uses. To the beginner grower, the terminology may be somewhat confusing. Luckily, learning about the different types of peas is as easy as planting them into the garden.

Shelling Pea Information – What are Shelling Peas?

The term ‘shelling peas’ refers to varieties of pea that require the pea to be removed from the pod or shell prior to use. Though shelling peas are one of the most popular types of pea plant in which to grow, they are often referred to by many other names.

These common names include English peas, garden peas, and even sweet peas. The name sweet peas is especially problematic as true sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) are a toxic ornamental flower and are not edible.

Planting Peas for Shelling

Like snap peas or snow peas, various kinds of shelling peas are extremely easy to grow. In many places, peas for shelling can be direct sowed into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. In general, this is likely about four to six weeks before the average last predicted frost date. Planting early is especially important in locations that have a short spring season before the summer turns hot, as pea plants prefer cool weather to grow.

Choose a well-draining location that receives full sun. Since germination occurs best when soil temperatures are relatively cool, 45 degrees F. (7 C.), planting early will ensure the best chance of success. Once germination has occurred, the plants generally require little care. Due to their cold tolerance, growers usually will not need to worry if late season frost or snow is predicted.

As the days continue to lengthen and warmer spring weather arrives, peas will assume more vigorous growth and begin to flower. Since most shelling pea varieties are vining plants, these peas will need the support or plant stakes of a small trellis system.

Shelling Pea Varieties

• ‘Alderman’
• ‘Bistro’
• ‘Maestro’
• ‘Green Arrow’
• ‘Lincoln’
• ‘Champion of England’
• ‘Emerald Archer’
• ‘Alaska’
• ‘Progress No. 9’
• ‘Little Marvel’
• ‘Wando’

Shell peas, commonly known as English peas or garden peas, are a great addition to the garden for both seasoned professional growers as well as novices. Freshly picked and removed from the pod, the sweetness and crunch of fresh shell peas is sure to impress even the most finicky of eaters. However, with so many options, choosing which variety of shell pea to plant in the garden may prove difficult. Luckily, varieties such as ‘Maestro’ shelling peas offer its growers an abundant harvest, as well as improved resistance to plant diseases.

What are Maestro Peas?

Maestro pea plants are a robust, medium sized heirloom variety of garden pea. Used in the kitchen as a shelling pea, this variety produces large pods which average around ten peas in each. High yielding pods make Maestro shelling peas an especially popular choice for growers in urban areas or with smaller garden spaces. Like many other varieties of pea plant, Maestro plants are relatively small and compact, usually growing only to 30 inches (76 cm.) at maturity.

Growing Maestro Peas

Growing Maestro peas is very similar to growing other varieties of peas. First and foremost, growers will need to determine the proper planting time depending upon where they live. While northern growers may need to wait until spring, those living in warmer USDA zones may be able to sow Maestro seeds as a winter crop. Since shell peas grow best when temperatures are cool, it is often one of the first crops to be planted in the spring. Germinating is best when the soil temperature is around 50 degrees F. (10 C.), peas are most commonly direct sown into the garden in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. While pea seeds can be started indoors, it is best to direct sow. Choose a well-draining location in direct sunlight. This is especially important, as the combination of cool soil and moisture can promote seed rot. Sow seeds according to the package instructions, or about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep. Seeds should begin to germinate within seven to ten days. Once established, Maestro pea plants require minimal care. Though technically a vining plant, Maestro shelling peas do not require staking or additional support. Growers need not worry about the occasional frost or threat of snow, as many varieties of shell pea demonstrate exceptional tolerance to cold. When planted early, gardeners can expect large harvests of pea pods beginning in early summer.

Shell peas, or garden peas, are among some of the first vegetables that can be planted into the garden in the late winter and early spring. Though when to plant is dependent upon your USDA growing zone, vigorous disease resistant varieties such as ‘Misty’ will produce bountiful yields of sweet, tasty shell peas throughout the cool growing season.

Misty Shell Pea Info

‘Misty’ shell peas are an early producing variety of garden pea. Seldom reaching heights greater than 20 inches (51 cm.), plants produce large yields of 3-inch (7.5 cm.) pods. Reaching maturity in just under 60 days, this variety of garden pea is an excellent candidate for early season succession planting in the garden.

How to Grow Misty Shell Peas

Growing Misty peas is very similar to growing other varieties of pea. In most climates, it is best to direct sow the pea seeds outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring or about 4-6 weeks before the first predicted frost date. Seeds will germinate best when soil temperatures are still cool, around 45 F. (7 C.). Plant seeds about one inch (2.5 cm.) deep into well amended garden soil. Though temperatures may still be cool and there may still be a chance of snow and frost in the garden, growers need not worry. As with other types of pea, Misty pea plants should be able to withstand and demonstrate tolerance to these harsh conditions. While growth may initially be somewhat slow, development of flowers and pods will begin to occur as springtime warmth arrives. Peas should always be planted in well-draining soil. The combination of cool temperatures and waterlogged soil may cause seeds to rot before they are able to germinate. Carefully weed the area, as pea roots do not like to be disturbed. Since Misty pea plants are nitrogen fixing legumes, avoid using fertilizers high in nitrogen, as this may negatively impact flowering and pod production. While some taller varieties may require the use of staking, it is unlikely that it will be required with this shorter type. However, gardeners who experience adverse weather conditions may find it necessary.

Ascochyta blight is a fungal disease that can attack and cause infection in all types of pea plants. Unfortunately, there are no disease-resistant varieties and no fungicides that are registered for using against aschochyta blight of peas. The best medicine in this case is prevention.

What is Pea Asochyta Blight?

Ascochyta blight of peas is a fungal infection that can be caused by three different fungus species. Each produces a different set of symptoms, but it is also possible to see all three infections in one plant or bed: Mycosphaerella blight. This infection produces small purple spots on pea plant leaves as well as on the stems and pea pods. On the leaves, the spots grow larger over time and turn black. Leaves eventually dry out and die. Ascochyta foot rot. Producing similar spots on leaves, foot rot also affects the stem and roots. It causes dark purple to black spots on lower foliage, on the lower part of the stem, and on the upper parts of the roots. This causes the plant to mature too soon. Leaf and pod spot. This causes foliage and pod spots that look a little different. The spots are tan, sunken, and edged in black.

Preventing and Managing Peas with Ascochyta Blight

Ascochyta blight spreads through infected seeds and overwintered and infected plant material. Soil infected with this material that splashes onto healthy plants can lead to a spread of the disease. Infections are more likely to occur during wet conditions, but the fungi do not favor any particular temperature range. The first step in preventing the blight is to start with seeds that are certified to be disease-free. There are no varieties that are resistant to the fungi. Keep your pea plants separated enough that air can flow through and limit the collection of moisture on leaves and pods. Plant them in areas that drain well to prevent standing water and avoid overhead watering. If you end up with lesions characteristic of ascochyta blight, remove the infected plants and dispose of them. There is no pea ascochyta treatment, so your plants that are infected will be ruined and you will have to start over. Make sure you clean up and get rid of as much plant debris as possible at the end of the season and till the soil well to bury any remaining fungi that may overwinter.

Peas with root nematodes may be stunted, wilted, and yellow and may produce a smaller harvest. Nematodes can be difficult to combat, so prevention is the best option. Use nematode-free plants or resistant varieties of peas in your garden to avoid these pests.

Pea Root Nematodes

Nematodes are microscopic worms that infest the roots of plants. There are many different species that attack different types of plants and that cause varying degrees of damage. Nematodes complete most of their life cycle in roots of plants and survive in the soil as eggs ready to hatch the next year.

Common Pea Nematodes

There are a few nematodes of peas that are most common in gardens, and they all have the potential to cause a lot of damage. They harm the roots, which in turn prevents the plants from being able to take up adequate amounts of water or nutrients. Three common nematodes that affect peas are:

• Root knot nematode. This nematode causes galls on the roots of pea plants, yellowing leaves, wilting, and lack of vigor, but there are varieties available that are resistant.
• Root lesion nematode. When infected with this type of nematode, a pea plant will have one primary root and no smaller, secondary roots. The plants may also have yellow leaves and stunted growth.
• Pea cyst nematode. Pea plants with a cyst nematode develop yellow leaves. Yellowish cysts form on the roots and the roots lack the nitrogen-fixing nodules they normally have.

Managing Nematodes in the Garden

Nematodes can be tricky, and how you manage them may depend on the type. For example, with the cyst nematodes, you can rotate out peas with a plant not susceptible to infection. This doesn’t work with root knot nematodes, though, mostly because there are so many host plants for root knot, including weeds. Some steps you can take with any type of nematode is to ensure that your pea plants have the best possible conditions to grow. This makes them less susceptible to infection and better able to get adequate water and nutrients. Amend the soil, use fertilizers, and water adequately. Prevention is also a good strategy for any type of nematode. Start your garden with plants guaranteed to be nematode-free, which you can find at a quality nursery. You can also use varieties that resist nematode infection. Prevent the spread of nematodes by practicing good garden hygiene, not moving infested plants, and destroying those that are badly infested.

Bacterial diseases on plants come in many forms. Pea bacterial blight is a common complaint during cool, wet weather periods. Pea plants with bacterial blight exhibit physical symptoms such as lesions and water spots. Commercial growers don't consider this a disease of economic importance, but in the lower-yielding home garden, your harvest can be depleted. It is best to be able to recognize the signs and symptoms and know what control measures are appropriate.

What is Bacterial Pea Blight?

Recognizing the various diseases that can occur on vegetable plants is a challenge. Bacterial diseases come in many forms and attack many types of plants. One of the more common is bacterial blight in peas. It can spread through rain splash, wind, or mechanical methods. That means it can become epidemic in field situations. However, the symptoms are mostly cosmetic, except in very severe cases, and most plants will survive and produce pods. Bacterial blight in peas is caused by a bacteria that harbors in the soil for up to 10 years, waiting for the right host and conditions. In addition to cool, wet weather, it is most prevalent when conditions already exist that damage the plant, like hail or heavy winds. This invites the bacteria by presenting a wound for entry. The disease mimics several fungal diseases but cannot be managed with a fungicide. However, it is best to separate it from those pathogens. In severe infections, the pea plant will become stunted and any forming fruit will weep and ooze. Most cases will simply end when conditions dry up.

Symptoms of Pea Bacterial Blight

Bacterial pea blight starts out with lesions that are water-soaked and turn necrotic. The disease affects only the above-ground plant. As it progresses, water spots expand and become angular. Lesions weep initially and then dry and fall out. It can cause tip death at certain points where the disease girdles the stem but usually doesn't kill the whole plant. The bacteria does cause stunted growth, diminished pod production when sepals are infected and even seed infection. Once temperatures rise and rain diminishes, most cases of pea bacterial blight subside naturally.

Preventing Pea Plants with Bacterial Blight

Control starts at planting by using clean or resistant seeds. Never use seeds from infected plants. Keep all tools and machinery sanitized to prevent spreading or introducing the bacteria. Water gently from under the leaves of the plant to prevent splashing. Do not water in the evening where leaves do not have a chance to dry. Also, avoid working in the area when it is raining or overly wet. If you "chop and drop" old plants, wait at least two years before planting peas in that area again. Bacterial blight should be thought of like a cold and is just as contagious, but it won't kill plants and is easy to manage with good hygiene.

If you're looking for a unique, heirloom pea that also has ornamental value, try blue podded blauwschokkers garden peas. The small, sweet smelling bicolored pea flowers, ranging from purple-blue to purple-white and pink-white, on this 5- to 6-foot tall vine are stunning in spring. The true beauty of blue podded blauwschokkers peas, though, comes when the flowers fade and become indigo blue pea pods - In fact, its name Blauwschokkers means "blue pod" in Dutch.

Blue Podded Pea History

Blue podded blauwschokkers peas (Pisum sativum) are an Old Dutch soup pea. In the cold winters of Northern Europe, gut-sticking, heavy meals like this were important. In Holland, one very popular heavy winter meal is a thick stew called Erwtensoep or Snert, which is usually made from pork, blue podded blauwschokkers peas, onions, carrots, leaks and potatoes. Blauwschokkers peas have been used in soups and stews in Holland and Germany since they were introduced by the Capuchin Monks in medieval times. They are sometimes called Capucijner peas because of this. Blue podded blauwschokkers garden peas were a staple food during times of famine in the Middle Ages.

Growing Blue Podded Blauwschokkers Peas

Hardy in zones 6-9, blauwschokkers peas are a cool season vine. They should be sown directly in the garden in early spring. They do not like to be moved once they have sprouted. Seeds should be planted 4-6 inches apart, with supports for them to climb, in sun to part shade. For best results, soak seeds overnight before planting. Many gardeners like to inoculate peas with rhizobium bacteria when planting to increase yields. Blue podded garden peas take 70-90 days to mature. They can be harvested when the pea pods are young and eaten fresh or used like snow peas. When allowed to fully mature, they can be shelled and used as soup peas. Mature, shelled peas should be soaked in water overnight before cooking. During the growing period, blauwschokkers peas are light feeders and will not require regular fertilization. Bees are attracted to the flowers and, according to some reports, blauwschokkers peas can cross pollinate with other garden peas.

You’ve heard the saying, “just like two peas in a pod.” Well, the nature of companion planting with peas is akin to that idiom. Companion plants for peas are simply plants that grow well with peas. That is, they are mutually beneficial to one another. Perhaps they ward off pea pests, or maybe these pea plant companions add nutrients to the soil. So just which plants make good garden pea companions?

Companion Planting with Peas

Companion planting is a form of polyculture and basically means planting different crops near each other for mutual benefit. The benefits of companion planting for peas or any other vegetable may be for pest control or aid in pollination. Companion planting may also be used to maximize garden space or to provide habit for beneficial insects. Also, in nature, there is generally a great deal of plant diversity in any one ecosystem. This diversity strengthens the ecosystem and reduces the ability of any one pest or disease to decimate the system. In the home garden we usually only have a scant variety and, in some cases, perhaps everything is from the same family, leaving the door open for certain pathogens to infiltrate the entire garden. Companion planting diminishes this chance by creating a more diverse community of plants.

Plants that Grow Well with Peas

Peas grow well with a number of aromatic herbs including cilantro and mint. Leafy greens, such as lettuce and spinach, are excellent garden pea companions as are:

• Radishes
• Cucumbers
• Carrots
• Beans

Members of the Brassica family such as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and cabbage are all suitable pea plant companions. These plants also pair nicely with peas in the garden:

• Corn
• Tomatoes
• Turnips
• Parsnips
• Potatoes
• Eggplant

Just like some people are drawn together and some people are not, peas are repelled by the planting of certain crops near them. They do not like any member of the Allium family, so keep the onions and garlic at bay. They also don’t appreciate the beauty of gladioli, so keep these flowers away from the peas.

Small space gardeners will love Tom Thumb heirloom peas. The vines grow only 6 to 8 inches and they are hardy down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.). These diminutive plants produce an abundance of peas in a tiny space. Pop them in the garden or a container and enjoy the sweet taste of home-grown produce.

Tom Thumb Heirloom Peas

The history of the Tom Thumb pea plant shows it was originally introduced by the Philadelphia Seed Company in the 1850's. It seems silly to write the letters, OMG, but really, OMG, these are the cutest little plants ever with their curling tendrils and bright green pods! The history of this plant probably started with end of the 20th century kitchen gardens, where variety reigned supreme and spacing was crucial. The practice of container gardening and greenhouse growing was widespread among certain classes, and cultivation of new breeds of plants was at its height. Peas (Pisum sativum) are one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, with the first dwarf varieties appearing in 1665. The first of these was the Hotspur, from which the Tom Thumb heirloom peas likely arise.

Growing Tom Thumb Peas

This plant variety is early maturing, thrives in the cool season and doesn't require staking. Its lovely white flowers add early spring appeal as they cascade over a container. Direct sow these beauties as soon as soil is workable, 2 inches apart and ½ inch deep in full sun.

The seeds should germinate in 7 to 14 days with adequate moisture. Young plants may require some protection from a freeze but they are hardy once the plants establish. With a little luck, you will be eating the yummy peas in 50 to 55 days, with continuous production until the weather gets hot.

Try growing Tom Thumb heirloom peas just outside the kitchen door or on a window sill container for easy access and sweet fresh pods right at your fingertips.

Love the fresh taste of sweet peas? If so, it's likely that you've tried growing them yourself. One of the earliest crops, peas are prolific producers and generally fairly easy to grow. That said, they do have issues and one of them may be no peas inside pods or rather the appearance of empty pea pods. What could be the reason for no peas inside the pods?

Help, My Pea Pods are Empty!

The simplest and most likely explanation for empty pea pods is that they just aren't yet mature. When you take a look at the pod, the maturing peas will be small. The peas plump up as the pod matures, so try giving the pods a few more days. Of course, there is a fine line here. Peas are better when young and tender; letting them mature too much may result in tough, starchy peas. This is the case if you're growing shelling peas, also called English peas or green peas. Another possible reason for pods that don't produce peas, or at least any plump, full sized ones, is that you may have mistakenly planted a different variety. Peas come in the aforementioned English pea variety but also as edible podded peas, those which are grown to eat the pod in its entirety. These include the flat podded snow pea and the thick podded snap pea. It could be that in error you picked up the wrong pea starts. It's a thought.

Final Thoughts on No Peas in Pod

Growing peas with completely empty pea pods is fairly unlikely. The appearance of flat pods with barely a swelling is more indicative of a snow pea. Even snap peas have noticeable peas in the pods. Snap peas can get quite large. I know this because I grow them every year and we get so many I invariably leave some on the vine. They get huge and I shell and snack on them. Snap peas are actually sweeter when they don't get so mature and the pod is much tenderer, hence I discard the pod and munch on the peas. Proper planting of your peas will also help prevent any issues of pods that don't produce peas. Direct sow the pea in the ground in the early spring after all danger of frost has passed. Space them fairly close together -- 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) apart in the row since peas don't need to be thinned once sprouted. Leave enough room between rows to facilitate picking, and install a support for vining varieties. Feed the peas with a balanced fertilizer. Peas need phosphorous, but not nitrogen, as they produce their own. Pick peas frequently as they mature. Actually, shelling peas are at their peak before the peas have filled the pod to bursting. Snow peas will be fairly flat while snap peas will have distinct peas inside the pod albeit not very large. This Old World crop has been cultivated for thousands of years. It was actually grown as a dried crop referred to as split peas until the late 17th century when someone realized how delicious the berries are when young, green, and sweet. At any rate, it is well worth the effort. Follow a few simple rules for planting, be patient, and make sure you are planting the variety of pea you are expecting to grow to avoid an issue of no peas inside pods.

Does something seem amiss with your pea crop? Perhaps you have noticed insects feeding on the blossoms or tiny eggs on the pea pods. If so, the culprits are very likely pea weevil pests. Pea weevil damage is a major menace to pea production, specifically to garden and canning peas. What are pea weevils, anyway? Keep reading to find out.

What are Pea Weevils?

Pea weevil pests are small, black to brownish insects with a white zigzag running across the back. Bruchus pisorum overwinter in plant debris in the soil and then lay their eggs on the pea pods. Pea weevil larvae hatch and burrow into the pods and feed on the developing peas while adults munch on the blossoms. The resulting pea weevil damage on the pea crop renders it unfit for sale in the commercial sector and unappetizing for the home gardener. Not only does this pea weevil infestation affect the germination potential of developing peas, but in the commercial arena, costs many dollars separating and discarding infested pea pods.

Control of Pea Weevil

The control of pea weevil pest is of paramount importance in relation to the commercial pea crop industry and it may be of a high importance to the home gardener as well. Controlling pea weevils in the pea farm may be attained with the use of a dust mixture containing ¾ of 1 percent of rotenone. One to three dustings may be necessary to gain the upper hand on the pea weevil infestation at just the correct life cycle of the pea. The primary dusting should occur when the peas first begin to bloom, but before pods have set. Successive application should occur depending upon weevil migrations that may afflict the field after the first rotenone application. This same dusting procedure will work in the home garden with a hand duster and should be repeated at weekly intervals throughout the growing season. For the home gardener, however, the first order of business when controlling pea weevil infestations is to clean and dispose of any debris in the garden where the pests can potentially overwinter. Spent vines should be pulled and destroyed immediately post-harvest. The pulling of the vines before the peas are dry is the wisest course of action, although piling and burning will work just as well. Any that are left in the garden should be plowed underground 6-8 inches (15-20 cm.). This practice will prevent any eggs deposited from hatching or developing and infesting the pea crop the following year.

Growing and harvesting your own garden veggies gives one huge sense of satisfaction. If you are without a garden proper or just low on yard space, most vegetables can be grown in containers; this includes growing peas in a container. Peas can be planted in a pot and kept inside or outside on a deck, patio, stoop, or roof.

How to Grow Peas in a Container

Container garden peas will undoubtedly yield a smaller harvest than those grown in a garden plot, but the nutrition is all still there, and it's a fun and low-cost means of growing your own peas. So the question is, “How to grow peas in containers?” Keep in mind that pot-grown peas require more water than garden grown, possibly up to three times a day. Due to this frequent irrigation, the nutrients are leached out from the soil, so fertilization is key to growing healthy peas in a container. First of all, choose the pea variety you wish to plant. Almost everything in the Leguminosae family, from snap peas to shelling peas, can be container grown; however, you may wish to select a dwarf or bush variety. Peas are a warm season crop, so growing peas in a container should begin in the spring when temperatures warm to over 60 degrees F. (16 C.). Next, select a container. Almost anything will work as long as you have drainage holes (or make three to five holes with a hammer and nail) and measures least 12 inches (31 cm.) across. Fill the container with soil leaving a 1 inch (2.5 cm.) space at the top. Create a support for the potted pea with bamboo poles or stakes set into the center of the pot. Space the pea seeds 2 inches (5 cm.) apart and 1 inch (2.5 cm.) beneath the soil. Water in thoroughly and top with a 1 inch (2.5 cm.) layer of mulch, like compost or wood chips. Keep the seeds in a lightly shaded area until germination (9-13 days) at which time you should move them to a full sun exposure.

Caring for Peas in Pots

• Keep an eye on whether the plant is too dry and water until the soil is moist but not drenched to prevent root rot. Don't overwater when in bloom, as it may interfere with pollination.
• Once the peas have sprouted, fertilize twice during the growing season, using a low nitrogen fertilizer.
• Be sure to protect your container grown peas from frost by moving them indoors.

As with any plant, pea plants need sun but prefer cooler temperatures for truly bumper crops. Relatively easy to grow within these parameters, there are several things that notoriously afflict them, causing yellow leaves on pea plants. Should your pea plants yellow at the base and are looking generally unhealthy, or if you have a pea plant turning yellow and dying altogether, I'm sure you are wondering why and what can be done.

Why is My Pea Plant Yellow?

There are several possibilities to answer the question, “Why is my pea plant yellow?”. Fusarium wilt, root rot, Ascochyta blight, and downy mildew are all fungi that may afflict these crops and result in yellowing pea plants. Fusarium wilt - Fusarium wilt causes the yellowing of pea plants' foliage, stunting, and wilting of the entire plant. The base of the stem, however, is not affected. The fungus lives in the soil and enters through the roots of the pea plant. There are Fusarium-resistant varieties of pea that will be marked with an F, which is advisable to plant if this seems to be an issue in your garden. Crop rotation and the removal and destruction of infected plants are also deterrents to Fusarium wilt. Root rot - Root rot is also a soil-borne fungus that affects peas. Pea plants yellow at the base of the plant and stems wither and eventually die back. Spores are dispersed through contact, wind, and water. The fungus overwinters in garden debris, waiting to afflict new plants in the spring. Preventative measures for root rot are to plant in well-draining soil, avoid overwatering, rotate crops, allow adequate space between plants, purchase disease-free seeds and/or those treated with a fungicide, and remove and destroy affected plants. Downy mildew - Downy mildew causes other discoloration, but also shows as yellowing lesions on pea plants with a gray powder or mold on the underside and dark spots on the pods. To eradicate this fungus, air circulation is of utmost importance. Rotate crops every four years, maintain a debris-free garden, plant resistant seeds, and remove and destroy any infected plants. Ascochyta blight - Lastly, Ascochyta blight may be to blame for a pea plant turning yellow and dying. Yet another fungal disease and made up of three different fungi, it overwinters in plant debris or enters the garden in the spring in infected seeds. Rain and wind in the spring serve to spread the infection to healthy plants. Symptoms of Ascochyta blight vary depending upon the fungus causing the infection, anywhere from stem blackening, bud drop, and yellow or brown spots on foliage. To manage Ascochyta blight, remove and dispose of infected plants, rotate crops yearly, and plant commercially grown disease-free seeds. There are no resistant cultivars or fungicides for Ascochyta blight.

Treatment for Pea Plants That Turn Yellow

Most causes for yellowing pea plants are fungal and the management of all of them is pretty much the same:

• Select disease-resistant seed varieties
• Plant in well-draining soil and/or in raised beds
• Utilize mulch to prevent rain from spreading soil-borne spores to the plants
• Stay out of the garden when it's wet so you don't disperse spores to plants
• Remove and dispose of all debris, especially infected plants
• Rotate crops (avoid planting legumes in the same area three years in a row)

Whether snap, garden variety or oriental pod peas, there are several common pea problems that may plague the home gardener. Let's take a look at some of the issues affecting pea plants.

Pea Plant Diseases

Asocochyta blight, bacterial blight, root rot, damping off, downy and powdery mildew, fusarium wilt, and various viruses are some of the pea plant diseases that may afflict pea plants.

Asocochyta blight

Asocochyta blight is composed of a trio of fungi, Ascochyta pisi, Phoma medicaginis var. pinodella (A. pinodella), and Mycosphaerella pinodes (A. pinodes), which survive through the winter months in plant debris or are introduced during planting season on infected pea seeds. Wind and rain transmit spores onto healthy plants. Although symptoms may vary depending upon the fungus causing the infection, generally Asocochyta blight appears as a blackened stem, yellow foliage with brown blotches and bud drop. Both pods and seeds may be afflicted, and severe infections kill off seedlings. To control Asocochyta blight remove and destroy diseased plants as soon as symptoms appear. There are no resistant fungicides available, so preventative measures such as crop rotation with non-susceptible crops on a yearly basis, and planting of disease free seed are recommended.

Bacterial blight

Similar to the Asocochyta blight, bacterial blight is another disease in pea plants that survives winter in infected surface plant refuse and in infected seed. Most commonly caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas syringae, bacterial blight may also be caused by other bacterium. Again, water, either rain splash, overhead watering or pet or human activity in a wet garden, spread the bacteria afflicting pea plants, often those that are already damaged by such things as frost. At first bacterial blight looks like shiny, dark green water spots on the leaf surfaces and then these irregularly shaped spots become papery, brown to translucent with the center lighter in hue. If allowed to continue, the disease will spot all of the plant, including its pods and cause bud and young pod drop. To fight bacterial blight, plant commercially grown, disease free seeds and do not use those from other plants, even if they appear to be healthy. Remove all debris in the fall and rotate crops yearly. Also, water plants at the base of the plants, and do not work around them when leaves are wet to prevent the spread of this disease in pea plants.

Root rot and Damping off

Caused by a number of fungi, root rot and damping off are other common pea problems exacerbated by cool, wet soil. Seeds become soft and rotted while seedlings fail due to sunken stem lesions. Older seedlings develop root rot when peas are planted in overly wet soil. Root rot fungi makes foliage yellowed, stunted, wilted or just plain dead looking. Should you be so inclined to look, roots will be brown, black or red with the outer layer of root peeling off. On occasion, lesions may appear. To prevent these fungal conditions, purchase commercially grown, disease free seeds and/or those pre-treated with fungicide. Again, rotate crops and be sure to plant in well draining soil with proper spacing. Do not over water.

Downy and Powdery mildew

Downy mildew and powdery mildew are also fungi that are spread via spores, although cool, moist conditions foster spore dispersal in downy mildew, while absence of rain does so in powdery mildew. Fungicide application may be helpful as well as crop rotation. Remove debris at the end of the growing season and purchase disease free seeds.

Fusarium wilt

Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne fungus, which may also be found in old plant debris as well as the soil. Wilting is one of the first signs of this disease, slowly progressing to faded, yellowing foliage and stunted growth. Eventually most plants succumb to this fungal pathogen and die. Though fungicides are available that may alleviate the issue, the best way to control its spread is by preventing infection in your crops. This can be achieved through regular rotation of crops and sterilization of the soil through solarization.

Pests of Pea Plants

There are many potential pests of pea plants, with aphids and pea weevils being the most prevalent.

Aphids

Aphids multiply rapidly and suck the sap of the plant, resulting in weak and stunted specimens. This also results in very few pods and possible disease contagion such as pea leaf roll and mosaic virus. Ladybugs are an eco-friendly method of pea pest control in this instance, as is neem oil spray.

Pea weevils

Mature pea weevils emerge in spring and lay their eggs in the peas seeds. Once hatched, the larvae munch on the seeds, creating holes. Insecticides are useless in this battle since the larvae can't be affected; therefore, the adults must be eradicated. The pea leaf weevil attacks both roots and leaves of the plant. Larvae feed on the nitrogen-providing nodules of the plant. Adults appear as a gray-brown bug with a trio of stripes down its back and the infected plant will have notches in foliage.

Other Pests

Additional pests of pea plants include:

• Armyworms
• Cucumber beetles
• Leaf miners
• Nematodes
• Spider mites
• Thrips
• And then there are the cutworms -- many people control cutworms by picking them off by hand. Ugh.

The battle against pea plant pests and disease continues. The best defense, as they say, is a good offense. Purchase disease free seeds and plants, practice crop rotation, control irrigation, and space plants accordingly to grow a bumper crop of healthy peas.

When you're looking for something a little different not only in the garden but also your salad, consider growing pea shoots. They're easy to grow and yummy to eat. Let's learn more about how to grow pea shoots and the proper times for pea shoot harvesting.

What are Pea Shoots?

Pea shoots come from the pea plant, usually the snow or sugar snap pea varieties. Some varieties favored by growers are Snowgreen, a short vine cultivar; Oregon Giant, a disease resistant bush snow pea developed at Oregon State University; and Cascadia. They are harvested as young 2 to 6 inch (5-15 cm.) shoots, including two to four leaf pairs and the immature tendrils. They may also include small flower buds. Pea shoots have a subtle pea flavor and a light and crunchy texture.

How to Use Pea Shoots

Pea shoots can be used fresh in salads, which is gaining in popularity, or traditionally in stir-fry, as with many Asian cuisines. The Hmong people of southeast Asia were the first to introduce pea shoots in the Pacific Northwest, where a cool climate encourages ideal growth. Pea shoots are now popular fare at many restaurants and can be purchased at farmer's markets all across the country. Regardless of their use, pea shoots should be used within one or two days of purchase or harvest, as they tend to be quite delicate. Rinse your pea shoots in cool water and pat (or spin dry) while removing any damaged or yellowed tendrils. Store in the refrigerator much as you would lettuce or spinach. An excellent replacement for spinach, pea shoots are high in nutrients. 2 cups (45 kg. ) has significant amounts of Vitamins A, B-6, C, E, and K. Pea shoots are also a terrific source of folate, thiamine, and riboflavin. As with many vegetables, pea shoots are low in calories with that 16 ounces weighing in at only 160 calories and zero grams of fat! Pea shoots have a light, refreshing flavor and lend themselves well to a simple squeeze of lemon atop a bed of fresh shoots. As an interesting alternative or addition to traditional salad greens, pea shoots can be treated with any type of vinaigrette one would usually toss over a salad. Try them with a delicious combination of strawberries and balsamic for the freshest of spring salads. Steam or stir fry lightly, due to their delicate consistency. Some dishes commonly call for ginger, garlic, and other Asian vegetables such as water chestnuts or bamboo shoots. Asian restaurants will sometimes substitute pea shoots versus cabbage as a bed for pork or shrimp.

How to Grow Pea Shoots in the Garden

To grow pea shoots in the garden, a cool climate is most advantageous where the average temperature hovers around the 65 degree F. (18 C.) mark . Plant pea shoots just as you would other peas. Sow about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep, keeping 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) between pea shoots. Pea shoots may also be grown as a winter crop in a greenhouse with supplemental lighting during the months of November through March.

Pea Shoot Harvesting

You may begin harvesting your pea shoots about six to eight weeks after planting. Plants should be between 6 and 8 inches (15-20 cm.) tall at this point. Your first pea shoots of the season will be the pruned growth points plus one pair of leaves snipped to promote branching. Continue clipping off the 2 to 6 inches (5-15 cm.) of re-growth at three to four week intervals. Choose pea shoots that are bright green, crisp, and unblemished. Pea shoots in the garden with buds and immature blossoms make for beautiful, edible garnishes or fresh green salads as described above. Extend the life of your pea shoot plant by trimming it down to about 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) tall in July. This will encourage the pea plant to reproduce a fall crop of pea shoots. The pea shoots in your garden may continue to be harvested until the shoots begin to taste bitter, generally later in the growing season.

When your vining type peas begin to show growth, it's time to think about staking peas in the garden. Supporting pea plants directs the growth of the pea vine, keeps it off the ground and makes picking peas a little easier, as the pea plant support makes the pods more visible.

How to Stake Peas

How to stake peas will be determined by the variety of pea you plant and how tall it gets. Some peas climb to just 3 feet (90 cm.), while others reach over 6 feet (1.8 m.). Knowing the height your peas will reach helps when it comes to deciding the best way to support pea plants.

Pea Plant Support Options

The cheapest and often the best way to support pea plants is by using materials you already have.

• Stakes in the ground can be small limbs that have fallen from woodland trees, old PVC pipe or any sturdy wooden stake of 4 to 10 feet (1.2 to 3 m.). Place stakes every few feet behind your peas and string a sturdy cotton twine along the middle and tops of the stakes. The twine is an adequate pea plant support. You may find some vines climbing the stakes.
• Old farm fencing or chicken wire is another means of supporting pea plants. Locate the fencing close enough to growing peas that they can reach it easily.
• Nylon mesh attached to stakes is another way of supporting pea plants.
• A trellis-like wooden structure is a means of staking peas in the garden, but may be more permanent than other methods of supporting pea plants. As pea plants should be planted in a different area each year, you might want to use a more portable means of staking peas in the garden. If you desire a permanent trellis to beautify the vegetable garden, plant other vining crops in that area when rotating peas each year.
• Metal rods can be used as a means of staking peas in the garden. A straight, fence-like structure can be erected for supporting pea plants.
• A teepee shaped trellis is an attractive way of staking peas in the garden. Blooms of growing pea plants are sometimes attractive, so provide a complementary means of staking peas in the garden.

You've learned how to grow peas and produced a good crop. Now it's time to learn how and when to harvest the peas in your garden. Thankfully, this is the easiest (and most delicious) part of the process. No matter what type of peas you're growing, with just a few simple vegetable harvesting guidelines you will be enjoying your crop in no time.

When to Harvest Peas

Both tender hulls and seeds of peas are edible. Tender, edible pods come from the early harvest. Learning how to harvest pea seeds and pods is a matter of timing and which part of the vegetable you prefer to use.

• Sugar snap pea varieties should be tender, with immature seeds, when harvesting peas for pods.
• Snow peas are ready for harvest when pods are developed, before pea seeds appear.
• Garden (English) peas, grown for seeds, should be developed but still hold tender peas when harvesting.

Begin checking the peas at the appropriate date after planting and begin harvesting peas that are the most mature. Harvesting peas for edible pods can occur as early as 54 days after planting if you've planted an early variety.

How to Harvest Peas

When picking plants with edible pea pods, you can harvest when the pods are flat but at the right length for your variety of peas. When to pick peas is determined by what you want from the pea. If you prefer edible hulls with developed seeds, allow more time before picking peas.

When you are picking shelling peas for the seeds, pods should be plump and have a swollen appearance. Check a few of the biggest pods randomly to see if they are the size you want. This, in combination with the number of days since planting, guides you on how to harvest pea seeds.

Once you've started harvesting peas, check them daily. When to harvest peas a second time depends on their growth, which can vary by the outdoor temperature. Some more peas may be ready for the second harvest in a day or two.

The time frame for the entire pea harvest usually lasts one to two weeks if all peas were planted at the same time. Harvest as many times as needed to remove all peas from the vines. Successive plantings allow a continuing supply of seeds and hulls ready to harvest.

Now that you've learned how to harvest pea pods and seeds, try a crop of this nutritious vegetable. Check the seed packet for harvest times, mark it on the calendar, and keep an eye on your crop for early development, particularly during optimum growing conditions.

Post-Harvest Pea Care

After harvesting peas, place the unused pea hulls and foliage in the compost pile or turn under into the growing patch. These are nitrogen rich and provide nutrients far superior to chemical fertilizers in the soil.

The problem of pea plants wilting in the garden can be as simple as a need for water, or peas wilting may also signal a serious, common disease called pea wilt. Wilt on peas (the disease) is soil-borne and may or may not devastate the crop.

Reasons for Pea Plants Wilting

If you have pea plants wilting in the garden, check first to make sure the soil isn't dried out. Examine stems near the bottom for bright or unusual colors of yellow, orange, or red. This may only be visible by cutting the stem open as the disease begins. Wilt that is not corrected by watering is the surest sign that your plants have a form of the disease. Several types of Fusarium wilt and Near wilt are known to horticulturists, these may perform differently when infecting your garden plants. Peas wilting from these diseases exhibit symptoms on stems and roots. They turn yellow or reddish-orange; plants become stunted and may die. Fusarium pea wilt sometimes spreads through the garden in a circular pattern. Near pea wilt has similar symptoms but is not as likely to destroy the entire crop. Plants damaged by wilt on peas should be removed from the garden, along with roots. Pea wilt disease is easily spread by tracking soil into healthy parts of the garden, by cultivation and tilling, and by the diseased plants you have removed. Plants affected by wilt on peas should be burned. There is no chemical control effective for this disease. Plants affected by pea wilt often do not produce pods, or pods are small and underdeveloped. Near wilt on peas that are older and have shown vigorous growth may not be as devastating, these plants may continue to produce a viable, useable crop.

Preventing Pea Wilt

Wilt on peas can be avoided by good cultural practices, crop rotation, and planting disease-resistant varieties. Plant peas in a different area of the garden each year. Plant in soil enriched with organic compost that drains well. Don't overwater. Healthy plants are less likely to succumb to the disease. Choose seeds that are labeled resistant to wilt. These will be labeled (WR) on the packet. Resistant varieties may grow a healthy pea crop in the infected soil. Fungi of the disease may remain in the soil for 10 years or longer. Non-resistant varieties should not be planted in the area again. Choose an entirely different growing spot, if possible.

Have you ever thought about how to grow snow peas (Pisum sativum var. saccharatum)? Snow peas are cool season vegetables that are quite frost hardy. Growing snow peas requires no more work than growing other varieties of peas.

How to Grow Snow Peas

Before planting snow peas, be sure temperatures are at least 45 F. (7 C.) and that all chance of frost for your area has passed. Although snow peas can survive frost, it's better if it can be avoided. Your soil should be ready for planting snow peas. Make sure it is dry enough; if the soil is sticking to your rake, it's too wet to plant. Wait until after the rains if you live in an area with heavy spring rains. Planting snow peas is done by placing the seeds 1 to 1-1/2 inches (2.5 to 3.5 cm.) deep and 1 inch (2.5 cm.) apart, with 18 to 24 inches (46 to 61 cm.) between rows. Depending on your climate, it may be beneficial to mulch around your growing snow peas to keep the soil cool during the hot weather of summer. This can also help prevent the soil from getting too soggy during times of hard rains. Avoid planting in direct sunlight; growing snow peas don't like all day direct sunshine.

Care of Snow Pea Plants

When cultivating around your growing snow peas, hoe shallowly so you don't disturb the root structure. Fertilize the soil immediately after planting snow peas, then, after picking the first crop, fertilize again.

When to Harvest Snow Peas

Care of snow pea plants simply requires waiting and watching them grow. You can pick them when they are ready to be picked -- before the pod starts to swell. Harvest your pea crop every one to three days for fresh snow peas for the table. Taste them off the vine to determine their sweetness. As you can see, the care of snow pea plants is simple, and you can harvest a great crop less than two months after planting snow peas in your garden. They are versatile used in salads and stir fries, or mixed with other vegetables for a medley.

Sugar snap (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon) peas are a cool season, frost hardy vegetable. When growing snap peas, they are meant to be harvested and eaten with both pods and peas. Snap peas are great in salads while raw or cooked in stir fries with other vegetables.

How to Grow Snap Peas

Growing sugar snap peas is best when the temperature is 45 degrees F. (7 C.) or higher, so wait until you are sure chance of frost is past. The soil should also be dry enough to till without the dirt clumping up and sticking to your garden tools. After the early spring rains is definitely best.

Sow your snap peas planting seeds 1 to 1 1/2 inches (2.5-4 cm.) deep and 1 inch (2.5 cm.) apart, with 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) between pairs of plants or rows. Early on when growing sugar snap peas, cultivate and hoe shallowly so you don't injure the plants.

When growing sugar snap peas, mulch around the plants, which will prevent the soil from getting too hot in summer afternoon sun. It also prevents too much moisture from building up around the roots. Too much sunshine can burn the plants, and too much water can rot the roots.

A little weeding is required, but growing snap peas don't require a lot of fuss and muss. Minimal fertilization is necessary and soil prep in the beginning consists of simple raking and hoeing.

When to Pick Sugar Snap Peas

Knowing when to pick sugar snap peas means paying attention to the pods and pick once they are swollen. The best way to know when your snap peas are ripe enough is to pick a couple each day until you find them suitable to your liking. Don't wait too long, though, because the peas can become tough and unusable.

Snap peas planting isn't difficult and the peas pretty much take care of themselves. Just plant the seeds and watch them grow. It takes very little time before you are enjoying your sugar snap peas.

Peas are spring’s reward for making it through yet another winter. The plants produce sweet, crisp pods and tender peas early in the gardening season. Native to the Mediterranean region and western Asia, peas have been grown for thousands of years and are a favorite in home gardens because they produce a bounteous crop, are easy to grow, and are delicious both fresh off the vine or cooked.

Peas thrive in cool weather and grow best in full sun with fertile, well-drained soil. They prefer temperatures between 55-70°F (13-21°C) and can tolerate light frosts, making them ideal for spring and fall gardens. Depending on the variety, peas can be grown in USDA Zones 2-11 as an annual crop. Most gardeners find peas to be a beginner-friendly crop, especially when grown with a simple trellis or support for climbing varieties.

The variety and gifts of peas is seemingly endless for anyone starting a vegetable garden. In addition to producing nutritious pods and edible tendrils that are rich in fiber and vitamins, pea plants also improve soil by fixing nitrogen, benefiting nearby crops in the garden.

Quick Pea Facts

What is a Pea?

A pea is the edible seed of the plant Pisum sativum, a member of the legume family (Fabaceae). When you eat peas—whether they’re inside a pod, flat like snow peas, or plump, small emerald-green balls like garden peas—you’re eating the plant’s seeds before they fully mature and dry.

Botanically, peas are legumes. This means the plant forms pods after flowering, inside of which are the developing seeds (peas). If those seeds were left to fully mature and dry on the vine, they would become dried peas used for split pea soup or stored seed for another planting.

What makes peas especially interesting in the garden is their relationship with soil. Like beans, pea plants host beneficial bacteria on their roots which then can convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form plants can use. This helps naturally enrich the soil.

The pea plant has a bonus gift for the kitchen, too. Its shoots are edible! Pea shoots are usually harvested from snow or sugar snap pea varieties. They are harvested as young 2 to 6 in. (5-15 cm.) shoots and include two to four leaf pairs and the immature tendrils. They may also include small flower buds. Pea shoots have a subtle pea flavor and a light and crunchy texture.Use them fresh in salads or in stir fries.

Types of Peas

Peas come in three main types—garden peas, snap peas, and snow peas—and each offers a slightly different eating experience, harvest style, and role in the kitchen.

Garden peas, also called shelling peas, are the classic type of pea most people think of. Their pods are tough and inedible, so the peas must be removed (or shelled) before eating. These are harvested when the seeds inside are plump and sweet. They are commonly used fresh, cooked in dishes like soups and side dishes, or frozen for later use. Some varieties of garden peas include:

• ‘Little Marvel’
• ‘Lincoln’
• ‘Wando’
• ‘Thomas Laxton’

Snap peas, also called sugar peas or sugar snap peas, are a cross between garden and snow peas in texture. Their pods are rounded, crisp, and fully edible. You eat the whole pod while it is still tender and sweet. Snap peas are popular in salads, stir-fries, and as a fresh snack. Examples includes:

• ‘Sugar Ann’
• ‘Sugar Daddy’
• Dwarf Gray Sugar’
• ‘Sugar Bon’

Snow peas are harvested very young before the seeds inside fully develop. Their pods are flat, tender, and also entirely edible. They are widely used in Asian cooking, especially stir fries, when their delicate crunch and mild flavor stand out. Some of the more popular varieties are:

• ‘Oregon Sugar Pod”
• ‘Snowbird’
• ‘Snowflake’
• ‘Avalanche’

While snow peas and snap peas may sound similar as they both have an edible pod, there are significant differences between the two that help gardeners decide which variety to grow. Explore the different types of pea seeds available—even ones with purple pods!—at Burpee Seeds.

Planting Peas

As one of the earliest crops in the garden, peas are rewarding in the number of pods that can be plucked off the vines up until the weather becomes too warm for their liking. Their performance depends on timing, placement and season-long care.

When to Plant Peas

Peas are a cool-season crop, which means timing is everything for a successful harvest. They grow best when temperatures are mild, typically between 55–70°F (13–21°C), and they will definitely struggle once heat sets in. Because of this, peas are usually planted very early in spring as soon as the soil can be worked—often 4–6 weeks before the last expected frost date. In many regions, this means planting can begin as early as late winter in warmer climates or early spring in colder ones.

Gardeners in USDA Zones 2–11 can grow peas as an annual, but the planting window is relatively short everywhere. In cooler zones, peas are primarily a spring crop. In milder climates, they can also be planted again in late summer for a fall harvest, as long as there is enough time before freezing temperatures arrive. Peas are a legitimate crop in places with very mild winters.

Peas germinate well in cool soil, so there is no need to wait for the soil to warm. In fact, hot weather will quickly reduce flowering and pod production, making timing critical. For the best results, plan to harvest your peas before daytime temperatures consistently exceed the mid-70s°F (around 24°C). Plant a few pea seeds every couple of weeks during the early season to extend your harvest window.

Best Soil for Peas

Peas grow best in fertile, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. A loose, crumbly texture helps young roots grow through the soil easily and supports strong early growth. Ideally, soil should have a slightly acidic to neutral pH, around 6.0–7.0. Add a bit of compost to the soil before planting to improve both fertility and moisture retention.

Peas do not like waterlogged soils, so ensure that your soil permits good drainage. At the same time, the soil should hold enough moisture to keep roots consistently damp during germination and flowering. Because peas produce their own nitrogen in the soil through nitrogen fixation, you won’t need to add much if any additional nitrogen. Too much nitrogen may lead to lush foliage but fewer pods.

Light Requirements

Peas grow best in full sun, meaning they need at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight each day for strong growth and good pod production. In cooler climates, full sun helps plants develop quickly and produce a higher yield before warm weather arrives.

In regions where spring temperatures rise quickly, a bit of light afternoon shade can help extend the harvest by preventing heat stress. While peas can tolerate partial shade, too little light will lead to weaker vines, reduced flowering, and fewer pods.

How to Plant Peas Step by Step

• Choose the right time: Plant peas as soon as the soil can be worked in early spring, about 4–6 weeks before your last frost date.
• Prepare the soil: Loosen soil to about 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) and mix in compost to improve fertility and drainage.
• Inoculate seeds (optional): Coat seeds with a soil inoculant, which you can find at a garden shop. This helps to boost the nitrogen-fixing process and improve plant growth. The Micronoc Seed Inoculant available at Amazon is a blend of nitrogen-fixing bacteria, phosphate solubilizers and beneficial fungi that help create a thriving soil ecosystem to get you peas producing efficiently.
• Sow seeds: Plant seeds 1–2 in. (2.5–5 cm) deep and 1–2 in. (2.5–5 cm) apart in rows spaced 18–24 in. (45–60 cm) apart.
• Water gently: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy to support germination.
• Provide support: Install a trellis or pea fence at planting time or soon after to help support climbing.
• Mulch: Add light mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds as plants grow.

Pea Care

Peas are a crop that is often squeezed into that brief time between workable soil and the heat of summer. That means a keen eye on their growth and care is in order for the best crop possible.  

Watering

Be sure to keep your eye on the moisture of the soil your peas are planted in. Peas need consistent, even moisture to grow well from germination through pod development. Keep the soil moist but never waterlogged, because excess water can lead to root rot and poor growth. Aim for about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and temperature. Deep, infrequent watering is better than light, frequent sprinkling, as it encourages stronger root systems. Once plants begin to flower, steady moisture is especially important to ensure full, tender pods and to prevent flowers from dropping prematurely. Using an irrigation system such as the Rain Bird Landscape and Garden Watering Kit available at Home Depot can help you provide the steady moisture your peas need for peak performance.

Fertilizing

Peas are light feeders and generally don’t need heavy fertilization. That’s because they can they can fix their own nitrogen thanks to beneficial bacteria in their roots. In fact, too much nitrogen can lead to lush leafy growth with fewer pods. The best approach is to enrich the soil before planting with compost or well-rotted organic matter to provide balanced nutrients. If additional feeding is needed, apply a low-nitrogen, balanced fertilizer, such as Espoma’s Flower Tone, a 3-4-5 formulation available at Lowe’s, sparingly at planting time or when plants begin to flower. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, and instead focus on supporting healthy soil biology for the best pea production.

Mulching

Mulching peas helps conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures more stable as cool early spring morphs into warm late spring. A light layer of organic mulch—such as straw or shredded leaves—reduces water evaporation and helps maintain the consistently moist soil peas prefer, especially during flowering and pod development.

It also limits weed competition, which is important because peas don’t compete well with aggressive weeds. Apply mulch once seedlings are a few inches tall, being sure to keep it slightly away from the base of the stems to prevent rot.

Pruning

Generally, peas do not require pruning. They naturally focus energy on flowering and pod production, not necessarily branching and leave production, so most growth management is unnecessary. However, you can remove any yellowing or damaged leaves to improve airflow and reduce disease risk.

If plants become very dense, light thinning can help improve light penetration and airflow. Some gardeners also pinch off the growing tips once vines reach the top of their support, but this is optional and mainly helps with managing plant size rather than increasing yield.

Supporting Peas

Your pea plants will most likely need supporting because most pea varieties are natural climbers that use tendrils to grab onto nearby structures as they grow. Without support, these vines will sprawl on the ground, making pea pods harder to find and more likely to rot or be damaged. A simple trellis, fence, netting, or even rows of sticks or branches is all it takes to guide growth upward.

Install supports for your peas at planting time or very soon after germination so young vines can attach early and grow upwards. The type of support depends on the variety—shorter peas may only need light staking, while taller vining types can require structures 4–6 ft. (1.2–1.8 m) high or more. Materials like bamboo canes, chicken wire, or even string mesh all work well, as long as they are sturdy and allow tendrils to wrap easily. A structure such as the FlexGrow A-Frame Trellis from Vego Garden can be expanded and arranged in multiple shapes, and can work with containers and well as in raised and garden beds.

When you provide good supports, you’re not only improving airflow and plant health but also making your future harvesting easier.

Harvesting

Your best pea harvest depends on two factors: timing and frequency. And those factors depend on the type of peas you planted.

Snow peas: when pods are flat and tender

Snap peas: when pods are plump but still crisp

Garden or shelling peas: When pods have filled out but before the seeds become starchy or hard.

Once flowering begins, check your plants daily because peas mature quickly, going from perfect to overripe very quickly. Harvest in the morning when pods are crispest and sweetest. When picking the pods off the plant, use two hands—one to steady the vine and the other to gently remove pods—to avoid damaging the plant, which could reduce future yields.

Regular harvesting from the plants will encourage them to continue producing pods and will extend your overall harvest window. Once peas become overmature, they lose sweetness and plants will eventually stop producing as temperatures rise.

Interested in harvesting pea shoots for something a little different to add to salads? About six to eight weeks after sowing your pea seeds, your plants should be about 6-8 in. (15-20 cm.) tall. Your clipped shoots will be comprised of the long tendril plus one pair of leaves. Leaving the rest of the growing vine on the plant will encourage it to continue growing, offering you more than one harvest from the same plant.

Storing Peas

There’s nothing like the flavor of a fresh pea, so be sure to use them soon after picking. Waiting will allow their natural sugars to turn into starches. When storing, place unwashed peas in a perforated bag or container in the refrigerator. They will stay in good shape for up to five days.

For longer storage, freezing is your best option. Shell your peas if necessary, then blanch them in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, then immediately cool in ice water. Drain thoroughly, pat them dry and freeze in airtight containers or freezer bags.

Propagating Peas

Peas are propagated almost exclusively by seed because pea seedlings dislike their roots being disturbed. Save some money by saving seeds from your favorite healthy pea plants. Allow a few healthy pods to remain on the vine well past the normal eating stage, letting the pods fully mature. Let them dry on the vine and turn brown. The peas inside will become hard.

Once the pods are fully dry, remove them from the plant and remove the hard peas from the pod. Spread the seeds out onto a sheet pan for several days to ensure they are completely dry before storing. Store saved pea seeds in a cool, dark, dry place in an airtight container or paper envelope. Properly stored seeds can remain viable for several years. Keep in mind that open-pollinated and heirloom varieties will grow true from saved seed, while hybrid varieties may not produce plants identical to the parent plant.

Pea Problems

Like any crop you plant in your garden, your peas are subject to pests and diseases that may impact their success.

Common Pests

There are a number of pests that can damage pea plants while you are awaiting harvest.

• Aphids suck the sap of the plant, resulting in fewer pods and weak and stunted plants.
• Pea weevils emerge in spring and lay their eggs in the peas seeds, and once hatched, the larvae eat holes into the seeds.
• Armyworms
• Leaf miners
• Nematodes
• Spider mites

Common Diseases

Some of the common diseases lurching in the air and soil that can impact your pea crop include:

• Powdery Mildew
• Pea Ascochyta Blight
• Pea Aphanomyces Disease
• Pea Streak Virus
• Bacterial Pea Blight

Growing Peas in Containers

Peas are well suited to container growing, making them a great option for patios, balconies, decks, and other small-space gardens. Most varieties can be grown successfully in pots, although dwarf and bush types are especially popular because they stay compact and require less support. Containers should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) wide with good drainage holes, and they should be filled with fertile, well-draining potting mix. Since peas are climbing plants, even compact varieties benefit from a small trellis, stakes, or netting for support.

It’s vital to keep in mind that container plantings will dry out more quickly than in-ground gardens, so peas planted in pots will need more frequent watering, especially in sunny or windy conditions. Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy, and place containers where plants will receive at least 6–8 hours of sunlight daily. A layer of mulch can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Because nutrients leach out more quickly in containers, occasional feeding with a low-nitrogen fertilizer may also help support healthy growth and pod production.

Growing Peas Indoors

Peas can be grown indoors successfully with enough light, cool temperatures, and the right container setup. Dwarf, snap, and snow pea varieties are especially well suited for indoor growing because they stay relatively compact and adapt well to pots. Containers should have good drainage and be filled with a fertile, well-draining potting mix. Since peas dislike root disturbance, seeds are usually sown directly into this final container rather than transplanted later.

Light will be your biggest challenge. Plants need about 8–10 hours of bright light daily, either from a sunny south-facing window or supplemental grow lights. Peas also prefer cooler indoor temperatures, generally between 55–70°F (13–21°C). Supplemental lighting in a cool basement would be the way to go with growing peas indoors.  

Companion Planting Peas

Companion planting with peas can help maximize garden space, improve plant health, and create a more diverse growing environment. Because peas naturally fix nitrogen in the soil through beneficial root bacteria, they are often planted near crops that benefit from added nitrogen. Good companions for peas include leafy greens like lettuce and spinach, root crops such as carrots and radishes, and vegetables like cucumbers, beans, potatoes, and brassicas including broccoli and cabbage. Aromatic herbs like mint and cilantro are also considered good companions.

Not all plants grow well near peas. Avoid members of the allium family—such as onions, garlic, and chives—because they may interfere with pea growth. Gladiolus is another plant often listed as a poor companion for peas, so keep this summer-flowering bulb away.

Pea Growing Essentials

• Need to support your peas? Try an A-frame trellis such as the FlexGrow A-Frame Trellis from Vego Garden.
• Seeds coated with Micronoc Seed Inoculant available at Amazon can help get you peas producing efficiently.
• Ensure your pease receive consistent moisture by using an irrigation system such as the Rain Bird Landscape and Garden Watering Kit available at Home Depot.
• Explore the different types of pea seeds available—even ones with purple pods!—at Burpee Seeds.
• Your peas may not need additional fertilizer, but if they do, the 3-4-5 Flower Tone from Espoma is available at Lowe’s.

Peas are one of the first crops that you can plant in your garden. There are a great many sayings on how peas should be planted before St. Patrick's Day or before the Ides of March. In many areas, these dates fall early enough in the season that there still may be frosts, freezing temperatures, and even snow. While peas are able to take the cold and even flourish best in cool temperatures, how cold does it have to be before they are no longer able to tolerate the cold?

How Low of a Temperature Can Peas Stand?

Peas are able to do just fine in temperatures as low as 28 degrees F. (-2 C.) If temperatures don't fall below this mark, peas and pea seedlings will be just fine. When temps are between 20 and 28 degrees F. (-2 to -6 C.) peas can survive the cold but will suffer some damage. (This is assuming that the cold happens without an insulating blanket of snow.) If snow has fallen and has covered the peas, the plants can tolerate temperatures as low as 10 degrees F. (-15 C.) or even 5 degrees F. (-12 C.) without suffering too much damage. Peas grow best in temperatures no higher than 70 degrees F. (21 C.) during the day and no lower than 50 degrees F. (10 C.) at night. Peas will grow and produce outside of these temperatures though, as these are only the best conditions under which to grow them. While folklore may say that you should have your peas planted by about the middle of March, it is always a wise idea to take into account your local climate and weather patterns before doing so.