The right peony care in July will have a huge impact on how well your plant flowers next year. Now your peony is done flowering for this summer, it gets busy making and storing the energy it needs to grow the next set of glorious blooms. Help your plant with this task, and you’ll be richly rewarded with even more beautiful ruffles of petals next spring.

Once July's glorious show of opulent petals is over, it’s all too easy to forget about your peony plant for the rest of the summer. And without targeted midsummer care, your peony will still flower next year. But, with the right nurturing, you’ll support your plant to grow the biggest, blousiest blooms, ever. The right summer care is especially important this year, as there’s no telling how long this heatwave will last, and heat-stressed plants will prioritise basic survival over another season of bountiful blooms. And why miss this opportunity when giving your peony the care it needs in July is quick and easy?

July peony care isn’t complicated, but these four simple tasks will help your plant through the stress of high summer temperatures, and allow it to focus on storing the fuel it needs for fabulous flowers next year.

1. Prune Spent Flowers to Grow Stronger Roots

The vast majority of peonies begin to form seeds in leathery pods as soon as flower petals start to fade. This uses lots of energy that could be put towards growing a bigger root system to provide for more abundant flowers next year. So, your first priority when it comes to summer peony care is to snip old blooms off. Use a sharp pair of bypass pruners to deadhead peonies – and do sharpen the blades first if you haven’t for a while, because clean cuts are easier for the plant to heal – to snip off the stem just above the first healthy leaf below the faded flower.

To avoid pests and fungal disease, it’s best to put snipped flowers in the trash rather than letting them drop to the ground.

Intersectional (Itoh) peonies and a few modern hybridized peony cultivars are sterile so don’t produce seeds, but it’s wise to still deadhead these both to keep your plant tidy and avoid disease.

2. Clear Dead and Damaged Leaves to Avoid Disease

Peonies are susceptible to several fungal diseases, which stress the plant. A diseased plant will use up valuable energy fighting the infection, affected leaves won’t be able to photosynthesize, and left untreated, some fungal diseases can even kill it. Fungi are able to lie dormant over winter, too, directly affecting next year’s blooms.

While botrytis blight, often called peony blight and gray mold, usually attacks in spring, you may spot powdery mildew on peonies in summer, with leaves looking like they are dusted with fine white flour. If peony leaf blotch, often called peony measles, went undetected in spring, you may also see this in July, too, when the small red spots will start to merge into dark, irregular patches (pictured above).

Gather up any leaves that have fallen to the ground as well as removing dead or damaged leaves from the plant, and dispose of them in the trash to avoid reinfection. It’s also important to wipe pruners with disinfecting alcohol such as MaxTite 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol from Amazon between cuts. Identifying the peony disease will determine if you need to take any further precautions.

Leave healthy green foliage in place for now as all these leaves act as solar panels through summer and into fall, photosynthesizing to produce energy that will be stored in the plants fleshy tubers, ready to power next year's growth. Wait until the foliage has died after the first frost, before pruning herbaceous peonies in late fall.

3. Water Deeply Once a Week

Established peonies are relatively drought tolerant, which makes it easy to skip over these plants in your watering round. But if you're wondering how to get bigger peony flowers next year, irrigation is a critical part of your care plan. Right now, the plant is using all that energy it’s making with its leaves to grow a stronger root system but, from next month into fall, it will begin forming microscopic, embryonic buds called ‘eyes’ just below the soil surface. These eyes will lie dormant all winter and, next spring, burst into life, throwing stems upwards with baby flowerbuds already formed.

Think of these summer months post-flowering as bud-planning time, and you’ll understand why keeping your peony hydrated now will lead to a better display of blooms next year.

However, it’s important to water peonies properly, giving your plants a weekly deep soak rather than a daily sprinkling. Irrigating deeply so water penetrates deep into the soil encourages the root system to follow the moisture downwards, making the plant more resilient; daily light watering leads to weaker, surface-level roots. Because peony roots are fleshy tubers, restricting watering to once a week at most ensures the soil doesn’t become waterlogged, when tubers may rot.

Young or recently planted peony plants that haven’t yet grown a strong root system, and peonies in containers, will need watering more often.

Water the soil rather than getting the leaves wet, to reduce the risk of fungal infection.

4. Improve Nutrients and Moisture With a Mulch

The final step of what peonies need in July is a 2-inch layer of mulch laid on the soil surface to help lock moisture in. You can use any natural material such as homemade compost, leftover all-purpose potting soil or a purpose-made mulch. The advantage of using a natural mulch is that nutrients will be washed into the earth to slowly feed the plant, and the organic matter will eventually rot down to improve the soil structure for healthy growth.

Use a bow rake, spreading the mulch with the tines then flipping the rake over to level the mulch with its flat edge.

It’s important not to swamp the centre of the plant with mulch, as a crown that’s buried too deeply won’t flower well, and organic material holding water against stems can lead to rot. Peonies have wide rather than deep root systems so spread the mulch around the plant, keeping it away from the central stems.

The Common Mistake That Could Harm Your Peony in July

It might seem sensible to feed your peony in July, to give the plant more energy to form those all-important roots and eyes, but don’t be tempted. Fertilize your peony now and you won’t be doing the plant any favors.

For a start, peonies are light feeders and the general rule of thumb is not to fertilize this plant unless you have a reason to. While it’s usual – though by no means essential – to feed peony plants in spring, once those beautiful fresh red shoots are around 2-4 inches tall, feeding in late summer can interrupt the plant’s natural cycle. Fuelling new growth at this point in the year may interfere with the plant’s preparations to go into dormancy in fall.

While some folk do fertilize immediately after flowers fade, feeding this late in the summer – even with a lower-nitrogen fertilizer – will encourage the plant to waste energy on new leaves rather than storing it in its tubers, ready for next spring. That extra foliage growth can leave a plant more susceptible to fungal disease once wetter weather arrives, too.

A natural mulch will give your peony all the nutrients it needs, without any extra fertilizer. If you’re at all worried about your peony, or think the plant is showing signs that it’s not getting all the nutrients it needs, then don't fertilize 'just in case'. Instead, test your soil to find out exactly what the problem is, with a lab-based soil test kit such as Sta-Green from Lowe’s.

Peony care in July is all about keeping your plant happy and healthy so it can put all its energy into growing next year's buds and a strong root system to support them. Deadheading, removing damaged leaves, watering deeply and mulching will ensure your peony has everything it needs to flower beautifully next spring. While you'll have to wait a while for the results, the fabulous flowers will be well worth your efforts.

Mid to late June, depending on where you live and garden, is a bittersweet time for peonies. The gorgeous, cloud-like blooms are fading, and the spectacular show is just about over until next year. Peonies flower brilliantly, but the show is short-lived.

June peony care after the flowers have faded may be bittersweet for gardeners, but it’s so important. The care you give your plants now will ensure they gather enough energy and stay healthy enough for an even bigger and better show next year.

These are essential June tasks you need to do to your peonies after flowering to set them up for big blooms again next year.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

There are a few good reasons to snip off those faded flowers by the end of June. The most obvious is that your plants and beds will look tidier when you deadhead peonies, but there’s more. By leaving large, decaying flowers on your plants, you put them at greater risk of developing and spreading fungal diseases.

The final reason for deadheading peonies now is to encourage the plants to put more energy into roots and foliage rather than seeds. This ensures they’ll be healthier, bigger, and stronger for next year’s bloom period.

To deadhead plants, start with a sharp pair of shears or these handy thumb knives from Amazon. Disinfect the blades with rubbing alcohol or disinfecting wipes. Snip just under the flower head and above the first set of healthy leaves.

2. Leave the Leaves

This is an anti-task for June. It can be tempting to prune peonies once the flower show is over, but don’t do it now. The plants use leaves all summer to gather energy through photosynthesis. That energy gets stored in the roots and will be used next season to produce more blooms.

Leaving foliage in place for the summer is crucial for ensuring your plants produce abundant, healthy flowers next year. Wait until the leaves naturally turn yellow and brown, typically in late fall or early winter, before cutting all the stems back to a few inches above the ground.

3. Clean Up & Add Mulch

Peonies are very susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew, which can be transmitted through debris left on the ground. Clean up petals and any dropped leaves from the bases of your plants to reduce the spread of common peony diseases.

As you rake up and dispose of dead plant debris, you might notice that the mulch around your peonies is getting thin. Add more mulch to help keep the soil cool as summer heat sets in. This will also help retain moisture in the soil for the roots that need it as they store energy for next year.

Aim for 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of an organic mulch, like this one from Amazon. However, avoid covering the crown of the plant or letting the mulch touch the stems, which can lead to disease.

4. Water, If Weather Is Dry

Summer heat and drought can be damaging to plants, especially for young or recently transplanted peonies. Established peonies will survive dry spells, but for young and old alike, supplemental water supports healthy roots and better growth next year.

Consistency is key when watering peonies. They grow best and develop good root systems when the soil is moist, but not soggy. Your bushes need about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. If it hasn't rained, give them a deep soaking once a week.

Avoid overhead watering as getting leaves wet can contribute to disease. Instead, set up a drip irrigation kit, like this one from the Home Depot that Content Editor Laura uses for her peonies and other perennials, or aim a hose at the base of your plants.

5. Feed as Needed

Peonies are not heavy feeders, but they can benefit from light fertilization at this time of year. A balanced, light application of nutrients now supports the root growth and energy storage your peonies experience during the summer.

A balanced fertilizer, like this organic 10-10-10 plant food from Espoma, is best. Avoid any products higher in nitrogen as this will promote more leaf than flower growth. A slow-release perennial fertilizer is also a good choice.

Fertilize peonies according to the instructions on the product label and water thoroughly after applying to avoid fertilizer burn.

6. Check for Pests & Diseases

June is a great time to check for any signs of pest infestation or disease on your peonies. The foliage should be lush and healthy now. Finding early symptoms now will help you manage issues before they get out of control.

Peonies have a tendency to develop fungal diseases. Look for signs of botrytis blight or gray mold, which include wilting young growth, blackened flower buds, and fuzzy gray mold on leaves and stems.

Powdery mildew looks like a white powder on leaves. Both diseases thrive in warm, humid weather. Prune off and dispose of infected leaves and stems. You can also use a fungicide spray, like this copper fungicide from Bonide, for more severe cases of powdery mildew and botrytis blight.

Ants are common on peonies, and not harmful, so don’t mind them. Look instead for thrips, aphids, and spider mites. Blast pests off with water or use neem oil or insecticidal soap, both of which are available on Amazon, for more difficult infestations.

The good news is that, despite this list of tasks, caring for peonies in the summer is mostly hands-off. With just a little support, you can stand back and let them do their thing, which is gathering and storing energy for another great floral show next year.

The wait is almost over, and if you’re anything like me, the anticipation is unbearable. Chances are, for the last few weeks, you’ve been peering at those pink asparagus tips, willing them on as they unfurl into lush bushes. Now, the finish line is in sight. My herbaceous ‘Coral Sunset’ peonies have reached that tantalizing marshmallow stage, by which I mean their fat buds are getting squishy, hinting at blooming peony displays so spectacular yet still elusive, teasing me every time I walk past.

But here’s the thing about peonies: those last few weeks before blooming can often be the most critical. You see a slightly floppy marshmallow stalk listing after heavy rain, lean over to nudge it into a support, and hear that sickening snap (believe me, I’ve been there). After all this patient waiting, the last thing any of us wants is to sabotage the grand finale with silly oversights and ill-advised last-minute peony fixes. And the worst thing you can do for your peonies this month is... nothing at all.

While they don't need us to hover over them, a few simple steps this month can ensure your precious marshmallow buds reach their full fluffball potential and don’t wind up face down in the mud. Don’t panic, you’re nearly there: you just need a few minutes and these last checks to make sure your herbaceous favorites can turn fat, happy buds into magnificent blousy peony blooms.

Get Ready for the May Growth Spurt

By the time May rolls around, it might feel like it’s too late to do much for peony size or peony bloom time, but we can be effective in the weeks before herbaceous and Itoh varieties bloom – and in the days after tree peonies are fading. Even when peony clumps seem to be putting on several inches of growth overnight, we can determine the fate of those massive fluffy heads in simple, straightforward ways.

Depending on USDA zones, May weather can be fickle. One week we’re dealing with a heat spike that seems to wilt tender stems. The next, a downpour threatens to batter healthy foliage (and nascent blooms). A few small environmental checks can make a big difference. This isn’t the time for nitrogen-heavy peony fertilizing which can trigger weak, sappy growth. That said, I do like to add a gentle splash of seaweed in spring, like Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon. This contains micronutrients and hormones that support flower strength at this volatile time, and serve as a vital plant tonic to intensify eventual bloom color.

Caring for peonies in spring isn't about grand gestures. If it’s turning out to be a wet spring, airflow is key. If it's a dry one where you are, deep hydration is the goal. It’s about responding to these shifts with a steady hand to nurture peony bloom. With these few high-impact tasks, you’ll ensure your peonies have the structural integrity and health they need to withstand whatever the skies throw at them. Here are the small steps you need to enjoy those big, pillowy peonies you’ve been waiting for.

1. Support Your Peonies

Rainwater and wind can be a devastating combination for peonies in May. One should never underestimate the weight of a rain-soaked 'Sarah Bernhardt' on the verge of blooming. And nobody wants to see our beloved peonies face-down in the mud. Because May growth can be explosive, this is your absolute last call to get peony supports in place – but do make sure they are the right kind.

Not all peonies need scaffolding. If you’re growing Itoh hybrids like 'Bartzella,' you’ll find they’ve inherited the stiff stems of their tree peony ancestors. For herbaceous types, though, you may need to bring in reinforcements late on. Don’t wait until the plant is flopping to try to secure it with twine or, worse, cages. Frames and cages are great when peonies are young enough to wind through them naturally as they grow. But once you are staring at 20-inch (50cm) tall peony stalks, it’s too late to twist brittle stems into these plant supports. Even if you don’t risk snapping stalks, you might choke off airflow and invite disease.

If you missed the window for grow-through grids, don't panic. Place three or four sturdy bamboo stakes around the perimeter of your peony clump, with another in the center, then weave soft twine between them. This allows individual stems to lean naturally while staying upright. You can also link together individual stakes designed to be connected for a last-minute show of strength. You can buy GiCare Peony Plant Connecting Stakes from Amazon, which can be linked together around developing plants in a gentler way than a cage. Use Velcro Adjustable Plant Ties from Walmart for another level of reinforcement. Be sure to check your supports weekly.

2. Watch Out for Disease

The sadness of a peony bud that fails to open is hard to put into words. Watching a fat, promising bud suddenly turn brown and shrivel up is genuinely upsetting. You may think this was due to a late frost, but more often than not, this is likely fungal disease in action, especially if you have also been forcing peonies into cramped cages with spring rain in full swing. One of the most common diseases for peonies is botrytis blight, a fungus that thrives in damp, humid conditions. Botrytis loves the tender tissues of emerging buds. Swift action is crucial: if left, the fungus can travel down the stem and infect the crown, weakening the plant for years.

So the second of your easy checks this month is to check your precious marshmallow buds. What you are looking for is bud blast: this is evidence of buds that have turned black or dark brown or feel mushy. If you see one, don't panic. You’ve likely caught it early, and stopped it getting worse. Simply snip it off, and remember to sanitize as you go. Keep a small jar of rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution handy to dip your snips in between every single cut. You can get Epic Medical 70 Percent Rubbing Alcohol from Amazon. This prevents you from accidentally hitchhiking spores from a sick stem to a healthy one.

If you see ants crawling all over your 'Karl Rosenfield' buds, it’s not as bad as you think. While they look like trouble, they are just sipping the nectar the buds secrete and, in exchange, deterring other sap-sucking pests. As long as the buds look green and healthy, let the ants do their thing. You can protect foliage from the risk of gray mold without harming the ants, by applying a gentle foliar spray. Try Bonide Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide Spray from Home Depot. It’s also wise to thin out any spindly stems that don't have buds, to make it harder for mold to settle in.

3. Check Mulching and Watering

If you want to gaze into the future with peony health, look into the eyes. These pink buds on the crown are where a lot of the magic happens, from flower size to strength of stalks. Hopefully, you sorted out a good mulch for your peony, but now is a good time to inspect moisture levels and see how your mulch is doing. Your third check is to make sure peony eyes aren’t sitting too deep in the mulch. Since there’s more activity around beds in spring, it’s possible for mulch to get kicked over crowns. Burying the crown even by 2 inches (5cm) can tell a plant it’s too deep to bloom. So pull back any mulch from the center, leaving a 3-inch (8cm) circle around stems.

Deep hydration is also important in May, especially if you are having a dry spring or live in the south or west. Inconsistent moisture during the bud-swelling stage leads to smaller, shorter-lived blooms. And a sprinkle only wets the surface and encourages shallow roots. Aim for a long, deep soak once a week, early morning or evening, and target the base of the plant: water the toes, not the nose!

A soaker hose can deliver water directly to the root zone. Try the Gilmour Vinyl Soaker Hose from Lowe's to automate the process. You can also get individual drippers that work even if you don’t have a full irrigation system set up. Try an emitter like the Rain Bird 2 GPH Spot Watering Emitters from Home Depot. Just avoid overwatering, as this can encourage botrytis.

Bonus Checks for Post-Bloom Care

While herbaceous peonies are just approaching bloom time, many tree peonies are already taking their final bows. If you’re lucky enough to grow these woody wonders, May is a critical month to ensure the longevity and vitality of future blooms. As those blooms fade, your tree peony puts its energy into producing large seed pods. Leaving these to develop is exhausting for peonies, especially when you have no intention of propagating more by seed. So deadheading these flowers is critical, using clean, sharp shears. Industry-standard Felco 2 One-Hand Pruning Shears from Amazon give a clean, bypass cut that won't crush the cambium layer.

By snipping off the spent flower heads now, you trick the plant into redirecting energy into root development and forming buds for next year’s show. Prompt deadheading also helps reduce the risk of fungal spores hitching a ride on decaying petals. So remove just the flower heads, cutting above the first set of true leaves. Keep everything tidy with pop-up gardening bags like Fiskars Kangaroo 10-Gallon Collapsible Gardening Bags from Walmart. Whatever you do, though, don’t cut the tree to the ground. This quick tidy-up ensures a stronger, more resilient tree peony.

Shop Peony Care Essentials

Keeping on top of peonies deserves a treat. These key essentials don’t just make the chores easier but create an element of indulgent ritual. Just like peonies, the right tools, treatments and accessories can keep you company for years to come. So treat yourself, and your peonies. These curated picks will help nurture your favorite plants towards a glorious flowering finale – and set them up for years of future blooms.

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Peonies not blooming is one of the biggest disappointments a gardener can face. The peony is known its huge, fragrant blooms that enliven the late spring garden. So when one doesn't bloom, it leaves a big hole in the landscape.

Understanding the basics of peony care is vital to ensuring good blooming every year. Generally, these plants are easy-care perennials. In fact, when given the proper conditions peonies can grow for 70 years or more. But if not, they may refuse to give you flowers.

Peonies not blooming one year doesn't mean they'll never bloom again. Sometimes it's just a simple care mistake that's preventing flowers from forming. Let's take a look at the most common mistakes that lead to peony plants with no flowers and how to get these gorgeous perennials to bloom reliably every spring.

1. Planting Peonies in the Shade

Most peonies need full sun to produce blooms, however there are peonies for sun or shade. Unless you have a type that can handle shade, this is one of the most common reasons for peonies not blooming.

Perhaps your plant got enough sun in early spring to generate buds, but a nearby tree leafed out and now blocks too much sunlight. This can cause buds to die since the plant no longer gets enough sun to support blooming.

Always check the sunlight in your garden during the different parts of the day before choosing a location for your peonies. Transplanting peonies after the fact is not ideal and can cause a loss of blooms for several year as well. So think carefully about the ideal location for your peonies before planting.

2. Not Fertilizing Peonies

If your peony is unable to bring up enough nutrients from the soil, it may not be able to produce blooms. Figuring out how to fertilize peonies can be difficult, since they don't like you to disturb their roots or bury them too deeply under layers of compost.

However, peonies do respond well to compost. You just have to be careful not to pile it too deep or hurt plants' roots when mixing it into the existing soil. Making either of these mistakes can lead to a reduction in blooms as well.

Instead, a better option is to apply a liquid fertilizer like compost tea or seaweed emulsion that will seep into the soil and roots without disturbing them or burying them deeper. This organic liquid bloom-boosting fertilizer from Espoma is a great option as well.

3. Moving Established Peonies

These long-lived perennials don't like to be moved. It can take years after moving established peonies for plants to recover. If you planted or moved your peony in the past four years, it may still be experiencing transplant shock.

Plants will ultimately recover, but it just takes a few years. To help speed along their recovery, always transplant peonies in the fall and give plants a little extra love after moving.

A good way to give peonies some TLC is to spread a layer of composted cow manure around the base of plants in either early spring or late fall. Be sure not to add too much compost to the plant's root zone, however, or you may run into the next reason for no blooms.

4. Planting Peonies Too Deep

As mentioned before, peonies do not like to be planted too deep. When planting peonies, the eyes of the tubers should be no more than 2 inches (5 cm) below ground level.

If your peonies are planted too deep, the first course of action is to gently remove some soil or mulch from around the base of the plant. If this is not enough to get your peony to bloom, you will need to replant it. Though this will likely delay blooming further, it's better to wait a few years for a peony to flower than to have one that never will.

5. Overprotecting Peonies in Winter

If you live in a warmer climate, your peony may not get enough cold during the winter months. Peonies need a certain amount of cold weather, also known as chill hours, in order to set buds and to flower. Your peony may be getting just enough cold weather to produce the buds but not enough to make it the last bit to flowering.

If you suspect this is your problem, make sure to create an environment that will provide more peony chill hours. Do not mulch or add any extra protection when getting your peonies ready for winter. Try to remove any barriers that block the wind from your garden bed in the winter.

While this may seem counterintuitive, if you live in area that barely receives the required chill hours, your peony needs any extra cold it can get.

6. Letting Diseases Take Hold

Is your peony budding, but not blooming? This is a common problem known as peony bud blast. If your peony develops buds that suddenly turn brown and shrivel up, this is likely the cause.

Many a peony grower's hopes have been dashed this way. The good news is that the same reasons that cause a peonies not to produce blooms are the same causes of bud blast. Make sure your peony receives enough sunlight, fertilizer, and cold. Check your peony is planted at the proper depth and make sure it has had time to become established.

Another common peony disease that presents in a similar way is botrytis blight. In fact, expert used to think bud blast was caused by botrytis blight. It causes stems and leaves to develop dark blotches and makes buds turn brown, shrivel up, and stems twist. I had severely diminished peony blooms for a couple years when I was fighting this disease in my garden.

The best way to fight botrytis blight on peonies is to spray plants with a fungicide, like this one from Bonide, as stems appear in spring. Continue application once every week or two if you had fungal problems with your peonies last year, it's a particularly wet spring, or you've seen signs of botrytis blight on plants.

​​One of my definitive spring moments has arrived: my 'Woo Long Peng Sheng' has burst forth with vibrant, fluffy color. By which I mean, of course, that my beloved tree peony has picked this week to flower, and as usual, I’m feeling humbled, delighted, and a little baffled. I'm always amazed at how those last few weeks of waiting can stretch endlessly, only to feel caught short when those buds explode into life. Suddenly, I’m staring at 16 pillowy magenta fluffballs (yes, I counted), looking for all the world like they landed on the branches in concert overnight.

While my tree peony is the early star of the show, my growing focus now needs to shift to the herbaceous varieties of peonies in spring that are waking up. Tree peonies are different to herbaceous types, as they keep their shape year round and don’t involve anxiously peering into mulchy bases, wondering and waiting, searching for those pinky asparagus-style shoots of rebirth. Herbaceous peony care requires a special kind of vigilance. And if I’ve learned anything from years of trial and error, it’s that the spring waiting game is when the most damage can be done in the gap between nascent growth and eagerly anticipated blooming symphonies.

Although peonies do need love and attention in order to reach their full flowering potential, they need a certain kind of love. April is a critical window for peony care, but it’s also the time when many gardeners, armed with the best intentions, can accidentally sabotage those precious summer displays. Sometimes, the more you fuss, the less they can bloom. And you truly can kill future blooms with kindness. To ensure you aren't trading a season of voluminous flowers for lush, flowerless leaves, here’s what you need to check. Arm yourself with these 3 common peony pitfalls to prevent calamity and big up those blousy blooms!

Peony Pitfalls to Dodge This Spring

April is a month of dramatic contrasts for peony growing, depending on where you are based. While gardeners in USDA zone 8 may already be seeing lush foliage, those in zones 4 and 5 might still be clearing the last remnants of snow from beds. Regardless of your zip code, though, the moment you spy those first pink eyes pushing through the warming soil, the clock has already started ticking. This is the critical window for herbaceous peonies. They are waking up from a long winter slumber, and like anyone jolted awake, they are feeling pretty sensitive.

The danger of killing with kindness stems from the natural impulse to pamper our plants. When we see those tender shoots, our instinct is to protect and nourish. We might worry they’re too cold, too hungry, or in danger of being too floppy. However, herbaceous peony types are surprisingly stoic. They thrive on a bit of tough love and minimal interference. Panic-driven peony care in spring, such as piling on extra mulch to combat a late frost or adding heavy fertilizer to speed things up, can trigger fungal rots or crown damage that will abort this year’s flower buds before they ever have a chance to become pillowy pink blooms.

Think of April as an invisible deadline for your summer display. It may seem counterintuitive, but because peonies are relatively slow-growing perennial flowers, they lock in their success stories relatively early. They basically decide whether to bloom based on your actions now, so an accident or oversight now can’t always be corrected later. And environmental factors like spring rain can increase the risk of peony problems like botrytis if your kind actions have restricted airflow or buried the plant too deep. To keep your peonies on track for that symphonic bloom, we need to transition from fussy over-parenting to devoted vigilance. Avoid these spring goofs so your peonies have the space and health they need to perform.

Pitfall 1. Incorrect Feeding

This is such an understandable mistake to make. We see those reddish-pink shoots emerging and we reach for the nearest fertilizer, eager to give them a boost to help them along. However, when it comes to peonies, April is a time for a very specific diet. The pitfall here is reaching for a high-nitrogen fertilizer (the kind used for lawns or lush green shrubs). Nitrogen is the fuel for foliage, and while it will certainly give you a massive, leafy plant, it often does so at the direct expense of the flowers. The resulting lush and leafy growth can be a huge misdirect, where the peony looks incredibly healthy but fails to produce a single bud.

To avoid this, look for a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) if you don't want to overthink it. Highly rated GardenWise 10-10-10 Slow Release Fertilizer, available from Amazon, is great for peace of mind in spring. Alternatively, try a bloom-focused fertilizer with a lower first number (nitrogen) and higher middle and last numbers (phosphorus and potassium). A ratio like 5-10-10 or 3-4-5 is ideal for emerging herbaceous peonies in April. These nutrients support strong root development and, crucially, the formation of those heavy flower heads. Espoma is a tried-and-true tonic for bloom support in spring, and Espoma Organic Flower-tone 3-4-5 Fertilizer, available from Walmart, gives you that double-pronged nutrient fix without the excess nitrogen worry.

If you want to give your peonies an extra edge without risking the nitrogen trap, I love to add a little splash of seaweed. Try a little spring sprinkle of Maxicrop Soluble Seaweed Powder from Amazon. While not a traditional fertilizer, seaweed acts as a plant tonic. It strengthens the cell walls of fast-growing stems, making them more resilient to unpredictable spring weather and provides the micronutrients needed for those intense blooming colors. Seaweed doesn't have much N-P-K, but it’s packed with micronutrients. You could say it’s like giving your peony a multivitamin.

The beauty of the right spring peony feed is that once you have the right fuel, you only need to apply it once as the shoots reach about 6- 8 inches (15-20cm) high. Just remember, in the peony patch, less is often more. If you’ve already been a bit heavy-handed with the nitrogen, though, don't panic. You can help rebalance the soil by scratch-feeding a little bone meal or a phosphorus-rich bloom booster around the drip line of the plant to encourage bud set.

Pitfall 2. Deep Mulching

This mulching mistake is perhaps the most common reason peonies fail to bloom. Seems innocent enough to add a layer of cozy mulching, right? Unfortunately, there is a fine line between a cozy blanket and a suffocating weight. In April, you might see peonies sprout and decide to refresh the mulch “just in case” there’s more frost. But piling mulch directly over the crown of an herbaceous peony is the most effective way to ensure it never flowers. Peonies need those pinkish buds (the eyes) on the crown to be just below the soil surface (no more than 2 inches or 5cm deep). If you bury them under an additional layer, the plant will instinctively decide it’s too deep to bloom, leading to a season of lovely leaves but zero buds.

The secret to the best mulching is to apply your mulch in a wide ring around the plant, but leave 3-4 inches (8-10cm) around the emerging stems (known as the donut method). This keeps the soil cool and moist (which peonies love) without risking crown rot or blindness. For the best results, use nutrient-rich fines or a high-quality organic mulch like Back to the Roots Organic Premium, available from Amazon, which provides excellent drainage. If you’re worried about weeds popping up in that bare center, a light dusting of fine compost is fine, but steer clear of heavy bark or dense shredded wood in the immediate center.

If you suspect you’ve already been a little too generous with the mulch, don't wait for summer to fix it! Grab a small hand tool like the Fiskars Ergo Trowel, available from Walmart. and gently pull the mulch back until you can see the base of the stems and the very top of the crown. It’s a 5-minute job that can save your flowering season. Remember, peonies don't want to be tucked in too tightly – they want to breathe!

Pitfall 3. The Wrong Support

It’s that classic moment where you try to be helpful with a little careful stem adjustment and rearranging, only to hear a sickening snap – and just like that, a flower buys it before it even hits its stride. I understand that snapping sound all too well from personal experience. It’s unthinkable to imagine a beautiful, heavy peony head snapped clean off due to trying to help. And this isn’t meant to scare you into not lending your pink flowering friend any sort of support. The problem lies in trying to help it into a support too late in the season. It’s heartbreaking, but this very common pitfall is totally avoidable in April.

When it comes to supporting peonies, we often hold off on installing cages or stakes because we want to enjoy the natural, unobstructed view of the emerging foliage for as long as possible. However, trying to corral a peony once it has reached its full height is a recipe for disaster. Peony stems are surprisingly brittle at the base. Forcing a tall, leafy plant through a narrow metal ring can force the stems to bend and snap under the pressure of the support. This aspect of peonies care in spring needs to happen when you are dealing with less of that brittle volume. To avoid this, don’t try forcing taller stems into moorings several weeks into growth. The trick is to let the plant grow into a support that has been placed when spring growth is very young, rather than forcing the support onto the plant later.

By placing your cages or grids into position when the shoots are 6-10 inches (15-25cm) tall, the stems can naturally find their way through the gaps. Look for peony-specific cages, such as Gardener’s Supply Titan Peony Supports from Amazon, which allow plenty of room for peonies to naturally nudge their way through. Or for something a little more rustic, try the Willow Round Wood Obelisk from Wayfair which provides an organic structure that disappears into the foliage as it grows naturally into position.

This approach doesn't just prevent snapping, it ensures better airflow. If we bundle tall peonies with twine at the last minute as they start to flop, we create a dense, humid suffocation trap in the center of the plant, the perfect breeding ground for fungal diseases like botrytis. If you realize you’ve missed the boat and your peonies are already getting tall, don't try to force a cage over them. Instead, use individual plant support stakes with clips to gently tether individual heavy stems to a central cane. It’s a slower process, but it’s far kinder than risking a total break.

Shop Peony Care Essentials

After all these warnings, you might want to give yourself permission to indulge in a bit of retail therapy. That being the case, make sure you have the right peony care kit to hand as you help it wake up from its winter snooze. Investing in a few key items now will save you from the heartbreak of snapped stems or flower-free plants later in June. From specialized low-nitrogen fuels to the right structural supports, these curated picks will help you pivot from fretting to positive spring care.

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Few flowers in the garden match the flamboyance of peony blooms, and if you do this simple task when you spot spring shoots sprouting from the ground, you’ll enjoy more flowers, and bigger flowers to boot! For centuries, peonies have been cultivated for their luxurious blooms, and all sorts of new flower forms have been bred to give 21st-century gardeners fabulous ruffles of petals that we all adore. Some modern peony flowers can grow to a whopping 10 inches across with more than a hundred petals!

Now, I know it’s not good to be greedy, but there’s a very easy way to encourage your peony plant to grow even more, even bigger flowers. Peonies are dormant through the winter, fully retreating below ground while they wait for the warmer weather to return. It’s always an exciting garden moment in spring to spot distinctive red peony shoots emerging from the soil in spring. And this is the time to act, and feed your peony to fuel a bumper year of blooms.

When is the Best Time to Feed Peonies?

Your optimum time window to feed peonies for more blooms opens when the emerging shoots are around 3 inches high to when they’re around a foot high. If the weather is warm, growth happens rapidly, so do keep a careful eye out.

What is the Best Feed for Peonies?

Choose a balanced slow-release all-purpose feed that supports all-round growth, not just flower production, such as Burpee Organic All Purpose Food, available direct from Burpee and via Amazon.

Have a look at the three numbers on the fertilizer packaging that show the ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), always in that order. A fertilizer that has the same number for all those is perfect to give peonies a spring feed. If you've already got plant food that you'd like to use up, then it's fine to use one with a slightly higher phosphorus or potassium level, as they encourage root and flower development. But, whatever you do, don't use a feed with a higher nitrogen level, as that prioritizes leaf and stem growth over flower production.

What is the Best Way to Fertilize Peonies?

Slow-release feeds are typically granular, so wear gloves such as these from Amazon to spread it as some fertilizer ingredients can irritate skin. Following the dosage on the packaging, sprinkle the granules in a circle around your peony. Aim for the dripline of your plant – that’s the perimeter diameter of your peony at ground level, or where its shadow would fall if the sun was directly overhead when the shrub is in full growth. This is where most of the feeder roots will be. Don’t worry if you can’t quite remember how big your peony grew to last year, it doesn’t have to be exact.

Now use a small hand rake with rigid tines to work the granules into the top inch or so of soil, being careful not to disturb any roots. A claw rake such as this from Amazon is perfect as it’s strong enough to cope with any compacted soil. Try to spread the granules inwards a little from the circle, but don’t get any on or anywhere near the crown (the shoots). Water well to activate the plant food.

Should I Mulch As Well?

If you mulched in autumn, you shouldn't mulch now. In fact, it’s best to pull any old mulch back away from the crown in spring: the most common reason for peonies not blooming well is that the crown is buried too deeply.

If you didn’t, then it’s not necessary to mulch now, but it will help to lock moisture in the soil and supply more nutrients to the peony roots long-term. You should only apply a thin, one-inch layer of a general-purpose mulch or compost such as this from Amazon, though, and keep it well away from the crown.

And you’re done! All you need do now is support stems if needs be, and water during dry spells, trying to wet the ground rather than the plant, and look forward to a fabulous show of bumper flowers.

If you want to try growing a seriously enormous peony bloom, then have a go at disbudding. You can disbud just one stem to see what happens, a few, or all the stems. Simply snap or twist off the small side buds as they form on the stems, using small snips or your forefinger and thumb. Leave the main, end bud alone. Your plant will now put all its energy into growing this one flower, rather than all those you've removed by disbudding, so you'll get a far bigger bloom – but only one! It’s a fun way to create a few showstopper flowers for a vase or bouquet, though.

Peonies never go out of style. Their large, showy blooms bring beauty and romance to any garden. They’re large herbaceous perennials with sensitive roots, but they have the ability to grow in one place and flower for decades if you treat them right.

One important part of peony care is understanding, identifying, and managing fungal diseases. Peonies aren’t especially prone to disease, but they can be vulnerable to mold and some infections that can distort or diminish blooms.

Learning how to prevent these peony diseases, especially if you had problems last year, is vital for good blooming this season. You have to catch fungal diseases early and start treating them as soon as peonies begin peeking out of the soil. I’ll teach you how to know the signs, catch them early, and use a homemade solution to prevent fungal problems this year.

Peony Fungal Diseases

Peonies can develop fungal diseases at any time, but they are most common during periods of wet weather. Factors that increase the risk of fungus include growing plants very close together with little air flow, frequent rain, standing water, and water that splashes up from the ground onto stems and leaves.

1. Botrytis

Botrytis, also known as botrytis blight or gray mold, is the most common fungal disease that affects peonies. Start looking for signs as shoots emerge from the ground in spring, especially if conditions are very wet and rainy. Spots on plants will appear water-soaked and rotten.

Other signs of botrytis on peonies include fuzzy gray mold on stems and leaves and buds that turn brown or black and never open. Without treatment, botrytis blight can quickly kill a peony plant. In addition to treatment, remove and dispose of diseased plant material. Don't compost it.

2. Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew on peonies is unsightly but not as serious as botrytis. You’ll see it as a white or light gray powdery substance on young leaves and stems and sometimes on flowers. It’s unlikely that this fungal infection will kill your peonies, but you should manage it for the healthiest plants and best blooms.

3. Phytophthora Blight

Phytophthora cactorum fungus thrives in moist soils and can infect your peonies during wet seasons. The signs of phytophthora blight look a lot like those of botrytis. The main distinguishing characteristic is that botrytis causes gray mold. Parts of the plant affected by phytophthora look more leathery than soft and rotten.

A copper fungicide spray, like this one from Bonide, is the best option for managing this fungus, especially if it sets in early in spring.

4. Peony Blotch

You’ll see signs of this fungal infection after the plants have leafed out and just before the flowers open. It's also known as peony measles, leaf blotch, or red spot. Look for small, round red or purple spots on the leaves. The small, round areas may grow together and form larger, irregular shapes.

Like powdery mildew, this infection is unlikely to kill your peonies, but it doesn’t look very nice. Repeated years of blight can negatively affect the plants.

Homemade Fungicide Spray Recipe

If you saw signs of fungal infection on your peonies last year or if you are having a particularly wet and rainy spring, a simple and safe homemade remedy can help. It won’t cure a serious infection, but if mold and fungus have been issues with your peonies in the past, this spray can help keep infections at bay.

Use this homemade plant spray early and often to hold off significant disease, starting as soon as stems emerge from the ground in spring. This mix is particularly useful for managing powdery mildew.

Mix these ingredients together for an easy anti-fungal spray that is safe for peonies and other plants:

• 1 tablespoon (14.7 mL) baking soda
• 1 tablespoon (14.7 mL) neem oil or horticultural oil, both available on Amazon
• 2 to 3 drops of liquid Castile soap, which is also available on Amazon
• 1 gallon (3.8 L) water

Transfer the mixture to spray bottles, which you can get on Amazon, to use on your peonies. The oil helps the solution stick to the leaves and stems, but you’ll still need to reapply after heavy rain for the best results.

Focus the spray on all the areas you have seen mold in the past or currently. This includes the stems and undersides of leaves, not just the tops of leaves.

This homemade recipe is best for minor fungal infections on peonies, and is especially useful for managing powdery mildew. If you have a case of blight that is already causing parts of a plant to rot, it’s likely too late to save it with a neem oil solution.

If you have a rotting peony, it is best to simply remove the plant and destroy any affected foliage to prevent the disease from spreading to other parts of your garden. You can also check with your local extension office or garden center for guidance on more specific advice for your particular region and weather as well as a commercial product that could save your plants.

How to Prevent Fungal Infections

The best medicine is always prevention, so take these steps before a fungus takes over your precious peonies:

• Plant your peonies in an area with full sun and in soil that drains well.
• Space peonies adequately. They need about 3 feet (0.9 m) between them for good air circulation. Thin out some of the new growth in spring, if your plants are very dense.
• Water peonies at the base, not overhead, to avoid standing water on stems and leaves.
• Cut back peonies at the end of the growing season, so fungal spores don’t overwinter on plant material.

Peonies have a tendency to host fungus when grown in the wrong conditions. With careful site selection, good care, and a little homemade spray every once in a while, you can avoid or manage this common peony problem.

Every gardener who loves a blousy bloom knows that the peony is more than just a flower – it’s an entire seasonal event. From heirloom bushes passed down through generations in New England to heat-tolerant hybrids thriving in the Pacific Northwest, peonies have come to symbolise prosperity, romance and quiet resilience.

When it comes to birth month flowers, peonies are traditionally associated with May. However, the sheer range of colors, forms and personalities within the peony family makes them surprisingly well suited to an entire 12-month calendar.

Whether you’re drawn to the sumptuous, Victorian ballgown fullness of classic double blooms or prefer the architectural confidence of modern Itoh hybrids (a cross between herbaceous and tree peonies), there’s a cultivar that mirrors the mood of every month every bit as well as your birth month bird does. Fact.

Your Birth Month peony

To help you find the peony that speaks to your very soul, we’ve paired twelve peonies commonly available at US nurseries with the qualities they evoke – not as rigid rules per se, but as a little seasonal magic you can plant.

Read on to find yours...

It's important to note here that peonies don’t actually bloom according to our birthdays, but that’s part of their charm. Much like our birth month butterflies, they respond instead to weather, light and patience, unfolding in their own time each spring. Pairing these beloved blooms with the rhythms of the year, however, invites us to see them differently: not just as fleeting stars of the late-spring garden, but as lasting symbols of who we are and when we arrived.

So, whether you plant your birth month peony as a gift to yourself, a celebration of someone you love, or simply as another reason to look forward to spring, you're in for a treat: these flowers reward patience with abundance. And once you’ve grown one, chances are you’ll find room for another.

Lean into it, we say. Quite honestly, there’s always space for one more peony (and one more story) in the garden.

For most of the year, the process of growing peonies feels like it’s about preparation and expectation – in the hopes that come the all-too-brief flowering season, you’ll be rewarded with voluminous, fragrant blooms. At this time of year, you’ll have been staring at flower-free peony shrubs for many months. As the foliage shifts color and starts to die back in readiness for winter, the prospect of heavy, lush flowers may seem further away than ever. But that doesn’t mean you can’t take steps now to make them a beautiful reality – you absolutely should. Doing so will ensure the best peony winter care during dormancy, and mean that with the new growing season, your next peony display is suitably divine and extravagant.

Getting peonies ready for winter comes down to a few simple, yet highly effective steps – targeting plant health, protection and stronger growth potential. Doing these essential peony care jobs now gives plants chance to recover, rest and regenerate through the colder months to come. Make sure you can enjoy your peonies to their fullest expression next spring – by making time now for these simple tasks before winter sets in and plants become fully dormant. Do it right, and you’ll reduce the risk of potential peony threats such as overcrowding and disease. Here’s how to improve plant health ahead of winter, and increase bloom size and vibrancy with these simple fall jobs – to set you up for a spectacular display next year.

3 Ways to Get Your Peonies Ready for Winter

The period between fall and winter – as peonies approach and enter dormancy – is the perfect time to tend to specific tasks to boost future flowering. Doing these tasks now helps peonies in winter as well as ahead of spring. Follow these jobs, and you’ll prevent diseases like botrytis, protect the plant roots, and encourage stronger growth once spring arrives. These 3 tasks are your roadmap for knowing how to winterize peonies in the best way possible.

Your winter prep will depend on a unique combination of USDA growing zone and soil conditions, as well as peony type and age. Since peonies thrive in USDA zones 2-8, they are relatively cold hardy. Indeed, they rely on significant chill hours for continued health and vitality. These 3 simple tasks are suitable for the full range of suitable growing zones. However, it’s a good idea to check your soil moisture and pH levels before completing these jobs. Ideally, you need the soil pH to be 6.5-7. A meter like the Raintrip 4-In-1 Soil Meter from Amazon can help you determine conditions under ground in tandem with these other essential peony checks.

Knowing how to prepare peonies for winter will also depend on the age of your peony. The needs of established plants are different to those of young peonies. Plants that are less than a couple of years old require a gentler touch. Certain activities that support, protect and rejuvenate established plants can cause stress in younger peonies. You also need to adapt these tasks slightly, depending on the type of peony you grow. Herbaceous, Itoh (intersectional) and tree peonies all require different approaches to cutting back, for instance. Where relevant, these needs are outlined below. Whatever type you grow, these simple fall jobs will give you the advantage ahead of winter and the new growing year.

1. Cut Back Spent Peony Foliage

Cutting back spent peony foliage is a vital task ahead of winter. It’s definitely wise to cut back herbaceous peonies in the fall, preferably immediately after the first fall frost. Doing so reduces the risks of overwintering fungal spores and other peony diseases that could be lurking in decaying foliage, such as powdery mildew and botrytis blight. Peony pruning in fall also nudges the plant towards redirecting its energy into the roots ahead of the new growing year. Knowing when to cut back peonies may seem confusing at first, but quite often they will let you know when they are ready. After the first frost, you will probably notice the foliage turning black. This is your cue to grab your sharpest shears and secateurs.

For herbaceous peonies that are well established (3 years and older), you can cut stems to ground level, around an inch (3cm) above the soil surface. Focus on excising all dead or diseased-looking plant matter, specifically any yellow, black, soft and soggy foliage. For really young peonies (1-2 years old), you can still cut back, but do so gently as stems are still developing. For Itoh or intersectional peonies (hybrids of tree and herbaceous peonies), you need to cut back stems to the point just above their woody base, around 6 inches (15cm) above the ground. However, if your plant is a tree peony, do not cut back hard. Remove dead or damaged stems only, and do this later (in late winter or early spring).

In terms of the best cuts, opt for bypass secateurs or garden shears. Bypass blades are excellent for making clean cuts that cause the least amount of damage to the plant (and consequently also reducing the risk of plant disease). It’s worth investing in something that will last and work reliably and with precision, plus something that will feel comfortable when making mass cuts. The highly rated Fiskars P921 X-Series PowerGear Bypass Pruners, available from Amazon, have a lovely rolling handle and work well for small hands. I also really like the Corona BP 3180D Classic Bypass Pruner, also from Amazon, with its comfy grip and easy action.

When cutting back peonies in the fall, make sure your blades are as sharp and clean as possible. Always clean your shears and secateurs both during and after use with a mild disinfectant. You can pick up Pharma-C 70% Isopropyl Alcohol Wipes from Amazon. My only word of caution with this job is not to cut back your plants too early in fall, as this is a classic peony pruning mistake. You don’t want to make cuts to herbaceous and Itoh peonies while the foliage is still looking relatively healthy, since at this stage it is still feeding the roots. It’s best to wait until the leaves are yellow or blackened by frost before cutting back.

2. Mulch the Peony Root Zone

Mulching is the ultimate gift that keeps on giving as fall slowly makes way to winter, and beyond. It is both a luxury and a necessity, helping to insulate and regulate soil temperatures and protect the plant’s roots from the ravages of the freeze-thaw cycle. It also helps in moderating moisture levels, suppressing early spring weeds, freeing up nutrients, nurturing peony root development, and improving the structure of the earth if you opt for organic mulching materials. Little wonder that I’m recommending mulching as one of your essential tasks to get peonies ready for winter.

The trick here is to apply mulch around the base, but not directly on the crown of your peony plant. Smothering mulch on the crowns risks suffocating buds, delaying emerging growth, and potentially causing rots, so keep a 2 inch (5cm) gap around the crown. You also need to steer clear of just piling the mulch on. A little goes a long way, and a thoughtfully thick layer around 2-3 inches (5-8cm) thick is plenty to supercharge your soil and keep plants safe and nourished. Timing your mulching right is also important. Ideally, you need to do this after you cut back the foliage.

Mulching is something that benefits all types and ages of peonies, but again, use a little caution when applying to certain peony types. Mulching is especially beneficial for herbaceous peonies and tree peonies (which have shallow root systems). Again, just keep a gap around the base. Take particular care with Itoh peonies, as their buds develop close to the surface, so apply lightly and loosely for these plants. Where plants are very young, mulching is still beneficial as young roots are more susceptible to frost damage – just watch out for compaction around the crown.

If you can go organic, you’re giving your peony the most potential goodness over the quiet, chilly months of dormancy. Opt for mulches based on shredded bark, straw or well rotted leaf mould. It’s worth selecting something of quality and, if you’re going for bark, regular pieces that allow for good airflow while insulating roots. I love Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch, which is free from dyes, and carbon-rich Brut Aspen Mulch, both from Amazon. Avoid heavy mulches that don’t allow for generous airflow. You might also find it helps to loosen the earth before adding your mulch. Use a trowel or hand scoop like the Garden Weasel Heavy Duty Soil Scoop from Amazon, for breaking up clumps and compactions prior to mulching.

3. Divide Overcrowded Peony Clumps

This final fall task is dependent on the overall health and age of your peonies. For plants that have been in the ground for several years, and which you feel have not flowered very well this year, there is a good chance the root clumps may have become congested. You may actually be able to see signs of congestion if the stems are bunched very close together. Where you suspect your peony has become congested, it can help to dig up your plant and divide the peony plant’s root clump.

This may sound a little drastic, but it can be incredibly beneficial to do this in the fall, since root development takes over during the dormant period. Dividing in fall assists with airflow, revitalizes older plants, gives roots more room to grow, and can encourage more voluminous flowering. Established herbaceous peonies are the safest bets for division as the roots are fleshy. You can also divide Itoh peonies, but a little care is needed, and plants should have been in the ground at least five years.

However, there are a few caveats. Peonies are not massive fans of being disturbed, and if you move peonies it can take a little time to re-establish when moved – so division should be something you only do if you suspect that your peony clumps are, indeed, overcrowded and blooming was poor this year. And you should avoid dividing tree peonies and younger plants, which will find the process adversely stressful.

For older peonies that fit the bill, lift the root clump carefully using a garden fork. Divide the crown into regular sections, each containing 3-5 eyes (buds). Use a knife or small pruning saw, like the Corona Razor Tooth Curved Blade Folding Saw from Amazon, to make clean cuts with minimal plant damage. Once you are happy with your divided sections, dip the roots in a little mycorrhizal fungi or inoculant, like Myco Bliss Mycorrhizal Inoculant from Amazon. This will help replanted roots re-establish quicker, assisting in water and nutrient absorption, and reducing plant stress. Replant your divisions immediately and water well, and you’re all set.

Final Thoughts as You Prep for Winter…

These 3 simple tasks can make all the difference to peony health and eventual flower power. You get the satisfaction of knowing you’ve done absolutely everything you need to do in order to get your peonies ready for winter, so they pass through dormancy and emerge full of vitality as spring begins in earnest. Make a headstart on these jobs now, and caring for peonies next year will be so much easier. Your plants will greet the new year with a clean bill of health, all set to develop quickly and hit their full flowering potential.

Yes, peonies can be low maintenance for much of the year, but you won’t regret carrying out these simple tasks in the fall – before winter starts. By cutting back old foliage, carefully mulching, and dividing older plants, you’ll keep peonies healthy, productive and ready to impress with lush, evocative blooms next year. So make the most of your next crisp fall day – and set the stage for your best peony display yet!

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Beloved for their longevity, the beauty of peonies is something we are understandably keen to protect and enjoy for as long as possible, year after year. If you’ve been growing one for the first time this year, you may have been surprised by its ease of care, thriving with little to no seasonal maintenance. However, you will also know that some of the best perennials rely on careful pruning. By the same token, if you have had your peony for a few years and you are worried that it isn’t looking quite as good as it used to, or maybe didn’t flower all that well this year, you’ll be wanting to get a feel for how to give it a helping hand ahead of the coming year.

Plenty of ornamental plants benefit from routine pruning, boosting overall growth and the production of flowers. Learning to properly prune your peony shrubs at the appropriate time is essential. A few careless cuts can put your peony back potential years in terms of recovery, and in some cases can be a death sentence. Make sure you aren’t making these peony pruning mistakes – put your pruning shears to the best work possible, and you’ll be doing your favorite shrubs a massive service in preparation for the year ahead. Here’s what to avoid in terms of essential fall peony care, and what to do instead to protect your beloved bloomers for the future.

Peony Pruning Mistakes You Need to Know

Most mistakes when pruning peonies can be remedied in some way, and the chances are they won’t have a massively negative impact on the long-term health of plants, as long as you intervene. However, problems with peony pruning can slow growth. This often results in poor root development or flower production. This is especially true of younger plants which may be more susceptible to damage done by improper pruning techniques.

Plant size and the severity of cuts will also play a role in determining whether or not plants will recover. As with most gardening tasks, prevention is much better than cure. Pruning is a critical aspect of peony care and knowing how to do it right can reap dividends for years (and hopefully decades) to come. So be mindful of the following mistakes pruning peonies. When you cut back peonies, try to follow the sensible maxim ‘think twice, cut once’ with every potential pruning exercise.

1. Poor Timing

Quite often, the big worry is what happens if you don’t cut back peonies well – but one of the key problems that can catch growers out is making cuts at the wrong time. Mistakes when pruning peonies are often the result of poor timing. Determining the best time, however, will greatly depend upon their type. Most herbaceous varieties benefit most from pruning in fall, after the first frost. However, some may require a trim in early spring. Tree peonies are one such example – if you have a tree peony, you are best trimming just as the buds begin to swell in spring.

Pruning too soon is likely to impact plant growth, preventing shrubs from gathering much-needed energy. Tree peonies are still gathering energy over summer and into fall, even if their foliage is looking slightly worse for wear. Peonies pruned before their foliage has died back naturally may also demonstrate poor bud-set or fail to set flowers completely. So make sure that you are familiar with your peony type, and then act accordingly. You may not even need to prune in fall, but do check.

That said, even if you don’t need to prune peonies in the fall, you can use this time to assess and prep your pruning tools. A good sharpening tool, like Sharpal’s 121N Dual-Grit Diamond Sharpening Stone File from Amazon, can help get your pruning shears and other cutting equipment up to scratch ahead of the actual pruning window.

2. Improper Technique

Knowing how far to cut back peonies, and which parts of the peony need to be left, are important considerations. Along with timing, exact technique will also vary according to peony type. Species which die back to the ground each winter will benefit from aggressive pruning. This occurs when all dead or decaying plant matter is removed back to the ground in fall. Though failure to prune at this time is unlikely to harm plants, it can increase the likelihood or recurrence of disease across beds.

Woody peony types require a very different approach, with the plant's structure trimmed no more than approximately one-third of its height. Excessive trimming of tree peonies can result in serious harm to plants, sometimes leading to their loss. A good clean cut is paramount. If the branch is too thick for your shears, use a saw or a good pair of loppers like the Corona DualLink Extendable Bypass Loppers from Amazon, which are great for higher and thicker cuts.

Improper pruning techniques can result in damage to plants that can take time to rectify. This is a common flowering shrub mistake in general – but certainly applies here. If you’re growing herbaceous types, take care when trimming back shrubs in fall. Deep or aggressive cuts may result in injury to the plant crown or growth eyes just beneath the soil. Damage to these parts may result in poor performance the following spring, with many stems failing to grow or remaining stunted in summer.

Woody species can also be injured by improper pruning. New buds, which begin to swell in spring, will be especially delicate. Each cut should be just above healthy growth, at a 45° angle. Avoid cutting through peony buds, which can result in diminished growth or dieback of the stem.

3. Bad Cutting Hygiene

Poor sanitation is one of the most likely pruning mistakes that ruin peonies, even if these perennials are relatively hardy. Good growing practices will be key in helping peony beds look their best. This is evident in the removal of dead or decaying plant matter in fall and spring, after peonies have been pruned. This will help to prevent disease and the spread of plant pathogens, many of which overwinter in the garden.

Good pruning practices also dictate the use of clean tools to prevent the spread of disease. Cleanliness is essential to maintaining a healthy garden, especially when making cuts from which plants will necessarily need to heal. This is true whether you make cuts in summer, fall, winter or spring. It’s also your first line of defence if you are worried about passing any problems on from one plant to another. Sanitizing tools both before and after the pruning process will aid in keeping plants healthy, working to avoid cross-contamination of infected matter.

Ensure your pruning tools are sterile and cleaned properly after each use. Applications of isopropyl alcohol in concentrations of 70%, such as Dealmed Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol from Amazon, can reduce the risks of fungal diseases.

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Peonies are in my top five favorite flowers. It’s hard not to love their over-the-top gorgeous blooms. And, as a bonus, they’re easy to grow and can last for decades. One downside to these pretty perennials, is that they don't like to be moved. But it is possible, if you do it right.

Because peonies are so special and so long-lived, there may be times when transplanting peonies makes sense. Perhaps they’re not thriving where they are right now or you’re moving and you want to grow peonies at your new house.

When I tried to move my peonies for the first time, I ran into a few problems. But now, after some trial and error and research, I’ve learned the secrets to successfully transplanting peonies. Here’s what you need to know before you make the move.

What My First Peony Taught Me

When I moved into my current home, I didn’t know much about gardening, but the house came with peonies. I was thrilled because I love these showy flowers. After a few years, they seemed to be struggling.

A little research told me they had probably been planted in a spot without enough sunlight. Peonies can tolerate sun or shade, but too much of either isn't good. My plants were against a west facing wall of the house, but there were trees that shaded a lot of the afternoon sun.

I asked my husband to dig up my peonies one spring and move them to a better location. They promptly died. I worried I had made a huge mistake and mourned the loss of my three peony plants that year.

Ultimately, I found success transplanting peonies, but it took three years to master the details. The second year after moving, my peonies regrew, but they looked pretty sorry. Every year after that, they grew more and have thrived ever since.

Reasons To Transplant Peonies

Learning how to transplant peonies begins with understanding when and if they need to be moved. In my case, I moved my plants without really knowing what I was doing. As it turns out, though, I was right to do it. My peonies weren't blooming because they needed more sun. They likely would have continued to decline in their old spot.

Most peonies thrive for decades, even up to 100 years, in the same spot. So before you move one, make sure it’s really necessary. One reason is if you’re moving and want to take your favorite plants with you. Because these spectacular flowers last so long, it’s reasonable not to want to leave them behind.

Shading also often becomes an issue because peonies are so long-lived. In many cases, trees grow up and around them, blocking out sunlight. You can also dig up and divide peonies to propagate them. But you should only do this with large, vigorous plants. Also, be sure to use a sharp tool to dig and split plants, like this heavy duty stainless steel shovel from Amazon.

Best Time To Transplant Peonies

Once you decide your plants would benefit from a move, you need to know the best time to transplant peonies. While I was right to move my peonies to a sunnier spot, my timing wasn’t ideal.

Fall is the best time to move peonies. As peonies prepare for dormancy in fall, their growth slows. They are entering energy-saving mode, which this minimizes the stress of a big move.

September is a great time to move peonies in much of the U.S. since temperatures are usually beginning to cool. If you live further south, you can wait a little later. But don't miss your window in fall. Let peonies rest and recuperate in their new home for about a month before freezing temperatures arrive to help plants make an easy transition.

In spring, peonies are coming out of dormancy and are ready to grow and bloom. This magnifies the stress of moving them and increases the risk of transplant shock.

It’s possible to move peonies in spring, but realize that your plant probably won’t bloom again for a few years. Never move your peony at another time of year, only in fall or spring.

Transplanting Peonies the Right Way

First, choose a good spot for your peonies. The ideal location should receive full sun and have soil that drains well. The latter is important, so take time to dig down and determine if drainage is adequate. If not, amend the soil to lighten it. Add compost from your own stash or buy a high-quality compost, like this organic mix from Amazon, to improve drainage and add nutrients.

The health of the roots is critical when moving a peony. Start digging at least 18 inches (46 cm) out from the crown to ensure you don’t damage the roots. I find a large garden fork, like one of these from Amazon, to be a good tool for gently lifting out a big plant. You don’t want to grasp the stems to pull, as they can easily break.

If you’re dividing the peony to propagate more plants, rinse off some of the dirt and look for eyes. They’re little pinkish buds below the crown. Cut the roots so that each division you create has at least three eyes.

Finding the eyes is also important for placing the peony in its new spot. The eyes should be no more than two inches (5 cm) below the surface of the soil. Any deeper and the plant won’t develop and grow.

Use your hands to gently place the peony and fill in the hole with soil. Water it well and apply a thick layer of mulch around the plant. Continue with your normal fall peony care routine. Cut back peonies after the first frost to prevent disease and encourage plants to store energy in their tubers over winter that will turn into flowers in the following years.

When You Should See Signs of Success

Moving a peony is no more difficult than moving any other large perennial, but it does require patience before you see success. Especially if you transplant or divide plants in spring, it might seem like you’ve made a tactical error. Your plant probably won’t bloom this year or even the next year, but wait it out. By the following year, you should see new growth and flowers.

My peonies have done nothing but thrive since the third year after transplanting them. I was worried for a while, but I’m so glad I did it. They are much healthier, larger, and produce a stunning amount of flowers compared to their final year in their old home. So, learn from me and don’t be afraid to move your peonies.

Quite simply, the Sorbet peony is one of the most beautiful and unusual cultivars you can grow. Discovered in a Korean orchard in 1987 by Luc Klinkhamer, this stunner features fluffy layers of fragrant, blush hued and cream petals.

One of the most visually arresting types of peony available, peony Sorbet develops large, long-lasting blooms in mid-spring. It makes an excellent addition to a cutting garden or ornamental border. Here’s how to care for this gorgeously fluffy cultivar.

What is a Sorbet Peony?

Paeonia ‘Sorbet’ peony (P. lactiflora) is a midseason bloomer, flowering in late spring or early summer, depending upon the climate and region. It can be grown in USDA zones 4-8 and is remarkably hardy. This herbaceous peony’s impressively ruffled soft pink and cream blooms develop in mid-spring to early fall. Sorbet peonies make for long-lasting cut flowers and can even be dried.

In the fall, the plant does double duty as it is adorned with fall foliage in hues of bronze tinged with purple. You can grow this pink peony type as a standalone specimen or alongside other flowering perennial bushes in a cottage garden setting.

Sorbet Peony Care

Clump-forming Sorbet peonies are long lasting perennials with stunning early season blooms. With proper peony care, these aromatic floral beauties can live for generations once established. To guarantee the softest textured petals and the healthiest foliage, just follow these cultivation essentials:

• Lighting: These peonies can thrive in full sun (at least six hours) as well as partial shade. If you live in an area with overly high summer temperatures, it’s best to situate your peony in partial shade.
• Temperature & Humidity: The Sorbet peony plant prefers moderate temperatures between 60-70°F (16-21°C) with a relative humidity of about 40-70%. Temperatures above 85°F (29°C) can damage peonies and affect bud formation and flowering. These plants need a period of cold below 40°F (4°C) to break dormancy and prompt flowering.

• Watering: Peonies like moist but well-draining soil. It’s best to keep the plant roots constantly damp. Determining exactly how much you water peonies will depend on weather conditions and region variations. However, on average, you should aim to give plants a couple of inches (5cm) of water per week.
• Fertilizing: These peonies prefer a low nitrogen, high phosphorus fertilizer that promotes healthy flowering without excessive foliage growth. Aim for an NPK of 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. Use an organic food like bone meal or compost or a dedicated flower fertilizer. Apply in the early spring, prior to blooming but just as peony growth is emerging. Sprinkle granular fertilizer around the base of the plant and water well.
• Soil & Compost: The Sorbet peony prefers well-drained, average soil with a pH somewhere between 6.5-7. Keep the earth around plants moist, but not waterlogged.

How to Plant Peony Sorbet

Plant Sorbet in spring as part of your peony’s spring care routine. Alternatively, plant in the fall, six weeks before the ground freezes. Place in full sun to partial shade in average soil that is well-draining yet moist. Plant bulbs a couple of inches (5cm) below the surface of the soil, spaced 18-24 inches (45-60cm) apart. Make sure that the crown of the plant is level with the soil’s surface. If planted in the best way and cared for correctly, you can expect your peony to last for decades.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Sorbet peonies are remarkably resilient and are resistant to many peony diseases. Thanks to their phenol content, they are also unpalatable to rabbits, deer and most insects. They are drought and heat tolerant and exceptionally cold hardy.

That said, summer humidity can exacerbate fungal infections. Underwatering can lead to premature leaf drop, and crowded plants can foster fungal diseases. Overly hot dry temperatures can also lead to leaf scorch. Keep an eye on any sudden changes to foliage or structure, and keep multiple plants well spaced to promote good air circulation.

Sorbet Peony Propagation

These peonies can be propagated through crown division, layering or cuttings. The most common method is crown division, which involves cutting through the crown of the plant to divide it and create new plants. Wait until the peony is at least three years old before dividing the crown.

If you prefer to take cuttings, do so in late summer or early fall. You can plant peonies in individual containers. You can also propagate by seed. However, germination can take as long as 60 days. Also, bear in mind that young plants will not grow true to their parents.

Pruning Sorbet Peonies

Prune your peonies in late fall, removing any damaged or diseased limbs with clean, disinfected shears. If you need to retard or remove dead growth, cut the plant back with sanitized pruners in late fall after a hard frost, or in the spring before new growth emerges. Cut foliage back to three inches (8cm) from the ground. Leave the crown of the plant untouched.

Frequently Asked Questions

‘Coral Sunset’ is a hybrid, herbaceous peony, meaning it dies back in the fall and comes alive with new growth in spring. Peonies are popular garden perennials for their over-the-top flowers that appear in late spring or early summer.

All types of peonies are well-suited for a variety of landscaping needs. Peonies can be good foundation plants, they shine as border plants, and also make for good specimen plants in romantic cottage gardens.

Because peonies are so popular, you can find thousands of peony varieties and hybrids. One with unique coloration is ‘Coral Sunset.’

Caring For ‘Coral Sunset’ Peony

This coral peony has more orange tones than most peony flowers. It is prized for its large, semi-double blooms that emerge an intense shade of coral and transition as they mature to coral-pink, yellow-cream, and finally, white.

Light

Grow your ‘Coral Sunset’ peony in full sun or in a spot that gets just a little shade, preferably in the afternoon. Peonies make great foundation plants, but be sure that your house doesn't shade them too much.

Water

Peonies have medium water needs. The soil should drain well but retain a medium amount of moisture. Water your peony weekly if it isn’t raining. It should get an inch or two (2.5 to 5.0 cm) of water per week. Water is especially important in the early spring as the peony develops leaves and flower buds.

Temperature & Humidity

Peonies are fairly hardy and need cold winters to reappear and bloom in spring and summer. During the growing season, their humidity needs are moderate. Too much moisture can lead to fungal diseases. This peony grows best in USDA zones 3-8.

Soil

Peonies can adapt to many soil types, but it must be well-drained soil. If your soil is too heavy and doesn’t drain, amend it before planting.

Fertilizer

Peonies do not need a lot of fertilizer. Use compost in the planting hole and apply some around the base of the plant annually. Or, use a small amount of bulb fertilizer every few years just after flowering.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Your ‘Coral Sunset’ is susceptible to bortrytis blight, a type of mold. Space your plants adequately to allow for airflow and to reduce the risk of mold and other common peony diseases.

Ants on peony buds and blooms are common and not damaging to the plant. If you are using the cut flowers for bouquets, simply shake the ants off before bringing the flowers indoors.

Pruning

Peonies do not need much pruning, but they do make great additions to cut flower displays. Once a peony has finished flowering, you can cut the stems back. Remove any dead or diseased stems.

If you need to trim stems for air flow or shaping, cut them back to above the first bud. Trim back all the dead foliage after the first frost in fall.

Propagation

Dividing peonies isn't usually necessary and they are happiest when left alone for years at a time. If you do want to propagate them, lift the entire root clump out, divide it, and replant. Use a sharp clean knife to cut the root clump into divisions. Fall is the best time to divide peonies.

Repotting

Peonies are generally not grown in containers. They grow fairly large and do not transplant well. If you have to move a peony, it might die back and reappear the following year. You also might not see flowers on it for a year or two.

Thriving for decades with just a little attention, peony shrubs dazzle in mixed beds and borders. However, while growing peonies is a pleasure in its own right, selecting the right peony companion plants can add another dimension to your ornamental displays. There are several stunning peony companion plants that both complement and accentuate peony colors and textures. Here are some of the most striking peony plant companions for spectacular visual impact from late spring to early summer.

Choosing the Best Companion Plants for Peonies

When determining the perfect companion plants for peonies, cultural conditions in your garden will play a key role. Plant species with similar requirements for light, water and soil fertility make the best planting options. You also need to consider plant size. Then, of course, you need to give attention to any themes or color schemes, whether you are looking for companions for pink peonies or red peony types. Choose complementing or contrasting tonal ideas, whether that’s the delicate indigo of a nearby drift of lavender, a pop of black flora, or a dazzling white border.

Plants and flowers that go with peonies fall into three categories: under, in-between, and over. Those grown under established shrubs will help to shade the soil, prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Larger specimens will play a more focal role within beds, adding color and height to the space. Here are some of the most dazzling.

1. Allium

Blooming simultaneously, several species of flowering alliums make exceptional peony plant companions. Most will begin blooming in early summer, attracting large numbers of pollinators. Complementary purple tones combine with peony plants for an attractive spring palette.

As stems rise above foliage, large varieties add much-needed dimension to mixed beds and borders, whether you are exploring a purple garden design or cottage garden theme. Especially attractive varieties you can plant amongst peonies include ‘Gladiator,’ ‘Purple Sensation’ and ‘Serendipity.’ Most alliums will be hardy in USDA zones 3-9.

2. Azalea

Azalea and peony shrubs are often planted together as they have similar cultural needs and make some of the best flowering bushes. Both thrive in rich, well-draining soil. Their combined bloom time adds further appeal to mixed beds, flowering in tandem or in sequence, depending upon variety. Azaleas, available in shades of pink or red, complement peonies well. This can be helpful in the creation of stunning monochromatic beds.

In determining what to plant with peonies, larger types make good companions, but dwarf varieties are best suited to combined displays. Most azalea bushes will be hardy in USDA zones 6-9.

3. Foxglove

Similar in height and bloom time, biennial foxglove flowers can add dramatic interest to ornamental beds. Though all parts of the plant are highly toxic, pollinators delight in their bloom. You can expect mature plants to volunteer freely, dropping seed season after season.

If you’re mulling over what grows well with peonies, especially attractive varieties of foxglove include ‘Apricot Beauty,’ ‘Purple Carousel’ and ‘Snow Thimble.’ Foxglove plants are hardy to USDA zones 4-9.

4. Hosta

Many flowers that go with peonies, like hostas, are used for underplanting. This allows gardeners to add interest to beds at ground level, helping to suppress weeds. Glossy, patterned foliage furthers their appeal through summer, just as the plants come into bloom. Whether you go for a colorful hosta variety or one of the largest hostas, both peony and hosta together require minimal care.

Popular varieties of hosta for use with peonies include ‘American Sweetheart,’ ‘Blackjack’ and ‘Cup of Grace.’ Expect plants to behave as perennials throughout USDA zones 3-8.

5. Hydrangea

If you’re wondering what to plant with peonies for summer color that lasts, hydrangea plants make good companions to peonies due to staggered bloom time. Just as the flowering period of one ends, the other begins.

This is especially true of H. macrophylla types, which begin blooming in summer. Adding other species to mixed beds can further extend bloom and overall appeal. While peonies can be used to underplant larger hydrangea varieties, dwarf types can be used in the creation of more densely presented and richly tinted displays.

Popular hydrangeas include ‘Blushing Bride,’ ‘Endless Revolution’ and ‘Wedding Gown.’ Hydrangea shrubs with white flowers, as well as blue and purple hydrangeas, make exciting modern contrasts. These shrubs are hardy in USDA zones 3-9.

6. Larkspur

Many hardy annuals make good companion plants for peonies. Larkspur is a fantastic annual that blooms all summer and can be sown directly into prepared beds in early spring or fall. Tall flower spikes add dramatic height to beds and borders, helping to suppress early-season weeds in the process. Added to which, their voluminous blooms add elegance and character in purple, blue and indigo variations.

Experienced gardeners celebrate larkspur's unique ability to reseed, returning on a seasonal basis without attention from growers. ‘Misty Lavender,’ ‘Fancy Smokey Eyes’ and ‘Pink Queen’ are especially lovely varieties of larkspur for peony beds.

7. Lavender

Both lavender and peony plants are beloved for their rich, enchanting fragrance. Good drainage will be paramount to those hoping to grow lavender for the first time, with emphasis on the regulation of soil moisture. Like peonies, lavender will perform best where it is able to receive bright sun throughout the day.

Many lavender varieties work well with peonies, but one especially fragrant variety is ‘Munstead'. Other intriguing aromatic varieties include ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Provence’ lavenders. Plants are most likely to perennialize in USDA zones 5-9.

8. Lilac

Sharing similar cultural needs, lilac and peony shrubs work well in mixed beds. Larger lilac varieties can add height in borders. As their bloom times often coincide, paired plantings allow for a profusion of color. Their combined fragrance adds further appeal, both in garden displays and in arrangements of cut flowers.

Popular varieties of lilac include ‘President Lincoln,’ ‘Declaration’ and ‘Sensation’ lilacs. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-8.

9. Rose

Roses are treasured for their timeless, dependable beauty. Specific romantic rose varieties work well planted amongst peonies, adding both color and fragrance to borders. Climbing, rambling and shrub types all play a role, often blooming in tandem with peony shrubs. Roses make some of the best pink flowers you can grow with peonies – but you can also try softer white contrast roses, soft apricot or burnt golds.

Common varieties of easy garden rose include ‘Earth Angel,’ ‘Claire Austin’ and ‘Queen of Sweden’. Most roses are hardy in USDA zones 5-8.

If the word “lovely” were a flower, it would likely be a ‘Shirley Temple’ peony. These landscape favorites have huge white blossoms, washed lightly in rose, and looking both innocent and luxurious at the same time. This spring-bloomer sits on lush, clumping foliage yet is among the easiest plants to grow.

Are you ready for ‘Shirley Temple’ double peony plants to light up your spring? Read on for all you need to know.

‘Shirley Temple’ Peony Care

'Shirley Temple' peonies have a beautiful soft blush color that turns white as the bloom ages and are a romantic addition to any garden. Their light fragrance is also sure to please. Care is similar to that of other types of peonies.

Light

‘Shirley Temple’ peonies require ample sun. Full sun is best but partial sun can be sufficient if that is all your garden allows.

Water

The ‘Shirley Temple’ peony plant needs regular water. During the first growing season, peony plants should be watered deeply a couple times a week to ensure they thrive in their new home. However, do not let soil become waterlogged or they could develop rot.

Temperature & Humidity

This peony grows best in USDA zones 4-8. They need a cold period to induce dormancy, and do best in environments that are not too hot or humid.

Soil

Well-draining soil is required. Be sure there is lots of organic material in the soil. The soil should be neutral in terms of pH.

Fertilizer

Peonies don’t need fertilizer if the soil contains sufficient nutrients. If the soil lacks nutrients, apply a bulb fertilizer twice during the growing season, once after flowering, again in late summer.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Common peony diseases include fungal diseases that infect peonies, including the peony cultivar ‘Shirley Temple’. This usually occurs with wet, cool weather, particularly in spring. If you see blackened or wilted foliage on your plant’s leaves or stems, remove the diseased foliage and dispose of it to prevent disease from spreading.

As fall rolls round, cut back the plant stems to a few inches and toss out the rest in the garbage. Spraying a fungicide every week during the first month of the growing season may be necessary. On the other hand, if your plants collapse and feel mushy, it’s too late to help. Remove them entirely and dispose of them.

Powdery mildew is a fungus that attacks peonies in hot, humid weather. Look for a white coating on the leaves. Mildew only damages the plant’s appearance however, it won’t hurt the peony.

You won’t have to fight off many insect pests on ‘Shirley Temple’ peonies since they rarely have serious pest problems. Ants may frequent the blossoms but they aren’t dangerous; they are coming for the nectar in the flowers. Any other insects can be treated with neem oil except for foliar nematodes on peonies.

Pruning

Aside from cutting the plants back in fall, the only peony pruning necessary is deadheading. Cut off the flower heads as they fade. The plants look nicer without the wilted blooms and the practice discourages fungal diseases.

Propagation

Propagate ‘Shirley Temple’ by dividing the peonies. In fall, after cutting the stalks back to a few inches above the ground, dig up the plants. Use a sharp garden knife to cut each root ball into sections. Be sure each one has at least three growth eyes at the top. Replant these sections with the eyes close to the surface of the soil.

Frequently Asked Questions

Long-favored for their ease of growth, peonies make for a welcomed addition to most any landscape. Low-maintenance plants thrive for decades, requiring only very little care or attention from growers.

Especially vibrant types of peonies will have the greatest visual impact, offering gardeners dependable seasonal displays. ‘Kansas’ peonies are one such example of this, producing an abundance of striking double-pink blooms.

'Kansas' peonies are also known for their light, but romantic fragrance. Late May to early June will see these beauties bloom, and they make excellent cut flowers. The dark pink, frilly petals add interest to a bouquet or stand out on their own. Their light scent will create a lovely ambiance in any room in which they are displayed.

Caring For Kansas Peony

Let's explore the process of how to grow a ‘Kansas' peony plant in greater detail, putting emphasis on the cultivar's needs and its continued care.

Light

Those hoping to grow ‘Kansas’ peonies should situate the plant in full sun. Established plants will flourish where they are able to receive at least 6-8 hours of direct light each day. Though the bushes can be grown within a partly shaded bed, ample sun allows for the best bud set.

Temperature & Humidity

Peonies flourish when conditions are cool. Mild temperatures in early spring, between 60-70F (15-21C), aid in the growth of both flowers and foliage. Though the plants are able to withstand warmer temperatures, high heat and humidity through summer are likely to result in stress. Peonies will demonstrate an impressive tolerance to cold through winter, requiring a seasonal chill through its dormancy period.

Water

While established plants demonstrate some tolerance to drought, consistent moisture will aid in continued plant growth. Routine peony irrigation should occur through summer, at a rate of approximately 1 in. (2.5 cm.) per week. The use of proper technique, watering deeply and from below, further aids in the regulation of moisture levels within the soil.

Fertilizer

Though optional, routinely fertilizing peonies can help to promote growth and boost bloom. Experienced growers recommend the use of a well-balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Feeding best occurs on a regular basis, in both spring and fall. The early use of fertilizer should occur just before plants emerge from the soil and growth resumes. This allows for a stronger start to the summer season. Late feeding should occur after plants have been cut back to the ground, aiding in the continued development of a strong root system through fall.

Soil & Compost

Peonies are well adapted to a variety of soil types. Provided good drainage, most shrubs thrive across a range of pH and fertility levels. Still, the use of finished compost and other amendments at planting time can help to better establish new beds. Soil tests can be used to offer further insight into the specific needs of garden plants, helping growers to manage nutrients and overall soil structure.

Where To Grow A Kansas Double Peony

‘Kansas’ peonies grow best where they are able to receive bright sun throughout the day. This makes them ideal for use in mixed beds, borders, or in foundation plantings. Like most larger varieties, ‘Kansas’ may also be positioned into rows, as a means to create small hedges.

Though landscapers may be tempted to position the plant near large trees or structures, care should be taken to avoid shaded locations. Those with limited space may consider growing peony in containers, with gardeners making certain to opt for those large enough to support root growth.

How To Plant A Kansas Peony

‘Kansas’ red peony variety is quite popular, so bare roots are likely to be found for sale at most reputable garden centers. Though new plantings can be made in spring, experienced growers often prefer to plant in fall. This allows ample time for development after planting, helping to support strong growth in the first season.

Gardeners planting peony roots for the first time should prepare a hole approximately twice the width and depth of the plant. Each growth eye should be situated so that it rests no more than approximately 2 in. (5 cm.) below the surface of the soil. New plantings should be watered well, helping to settle the soil and encourage growth.

Pruning

Routine pruning of peonies is an essential aspect of their care. Upon bloom, faded or spent flowers can be removed from the plant as a means to prevent the production of seed. This will help to divert the plant's energy to other vital processes, encouraging overall vigor. Shrubs may also be trimmed in fall, after the first frost.

At this time, the plant's foliage starts to brown and die back to the ground. The removal of leaves and decaying plant matter helps to prepare peony beds for winter and reduce the occurrence of disease across plantings.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

While peonies only seldom succumb to foliar problems, plants can be affected by a number peony diseases. Fungal diseases like powdery mildew, peony botrytis blight, and leaf blotch, or 'peony measles,' are most common. Prevention and the early detection of such infections will be key to their treatment and control.

Pests may also be of cause for concern to peony growers. Aphids, mites, and mealybugs will be most likely to frequent the plant. Although finding ants on peonies' foliage and buds is common, they are not considered harmful.

Propagation

Peonies are most frequently propagated through division of peony plants. This occurs when plants are dormant. Each root is carefully lifted from the soil, then cut into smaller sections. Each segment should have multiple growth tips, or “eyes.” New divisions can be planted into the garden immediately, stored, or potted into individual containers.

Though it is possible to grow peonies from seed, the process requires a great deal of patience. It should also be noted that plants grown in this manner will not be true-to-type, differing from both parent plants.

Frequently Asked Questions

Peonies are not the first flowers to appear in spring, but they are undoubtedly some of the most colorful – capable of developing some truly memorable medleys. These peony colors can fill beds and borders with a broad selection of shades of yellow, white, pink, purple, violet, brown, coral and orange. Whether you are looking for classic pastels or more contemporary earthy tones, there’s something for every taste.

For lovers of these quintessential cottage garden classics, the many common colors of peonies will absolutely enchant you – but where do you begin? To make your choice easier, here is a short list of some of our very favorite types of peony colors, along with a few of the most desirable cultivars you can find. From brightest whites to deepest chocolate reds, this is your chance to grow a peony rainbow!

Choosing the Right Peony Colors for Your Yard

With their graceful shapes and brilliant flower colors, peonies are a perfect choice for blooms in mid-spring. The broad sweep colors of peony you can grow is genuinely astonishing. Peonies are divided into herbaceous and tree peonies. Herbaceous peonies die back in the fall while tree peonies have woody stems that live through the winter. Not forgetting Itoh peonies, which fuse some of the strengths of both types, combining the gorgeous blooms of tree peonies with herbaceous stems.

Peony season generally extends from April to June, depending on the cultivar and regionality of growing. This short list will give you a preview of some of the most dynamic peony color shades and breeds you can cultivate, from palest pastels to richest reds.

1. Coral Pink – ‘Coral Magic’

The name says it all. These glorious peonies (Paeonia x lactiflora) are exceptional for peony lovers who are growing floral beds around unusual pink peonies, rich sunset tones and warm monochromatic themes.

Semi-double blooms in a stunning deep rose-coral will delight garden visitors and attract pollinators as well. The stems rise to 30 inches (72cm) high and are topped with cup-shaped, salmon-infused blossoms. Hardy in USDA zones 3-8.

2.Yellow Green – ‘Green Lotus’

A green peony is a treat in and of itself, but ‘Green Lotus’ (Paeonia x lactiflora) has a powerhouse of tonal treats for you to enjoy. You can feast your eyes on a color mix of lime green, white, shell-pink and golden.

This fragrant herbaceous green flower cultivar has green guard petals topped with snowy inner petals (that mature to pink) and gold stamens. The blossoms open super-size, at 8 inches (20cm) across. This peony is hardy through USDA zones 3-8.

3. White – ‘Angel Choir’

This stand-out species is one of the best white flowers you can grow in spring. It’s a tree peony variety, growing to 36 inches (1m) tall. This brilliant white semi-double peony has purple flares and its petals are held high above the foliage for a stunning display.

Gorgeous in traditional and contemporary gardens, both as a contrast flower for richer tones or as an element in a white themed border. Grow in USDA zones 4-8.

4. Rich Red – ‘Burma’

Lovers of red peony plants will love ‘Burma’. It’s an herbaceous peony that offers eye-catching single blooms on 32-inch (80cm) stems. These peonies are a rich red that contrasts with the bright golden centers. The flowers resemble Oriental poppies and add an elegiac burst of brilliant color to beds and borders. Grow in USDA zones 4-7.

5. Copper – ‘Kopper Kettle’

Featuring a unique mix of red, yellow and orange, this peony’s large, semi-double peony flowers are striking and unusual. ‘Kopper Kettle’ is a tough Itoh hybrid that stands 32 inches/80cm tall. It puts on quite a show in late spring, filling borders with delicate tones that seem to shift and shimmer in the sunshine.

Added to which, lovers of fall plants for autumn color can enjoy a spectacular show as this peony’s foliage turns fiery orange after summer. Grow this gorgeous peony in USDA zones 4-8.

6. Apricot – ‘Singing In The Rain’

For a color that really makes a splash, ‘Singing in the Rain’ is an Itoh peony, a cross between a tree and herbaceous breed. Its creamy blossoms are shot with apricot and salmon hues and trace elements of gold, creating a startling display in the morning sunlight.

This shrub can reach 4 feet (1.3m) tall and wide, offering as many as 50 large blossoms that are held above the foliage on strong, upright stems. These fragrant flowers can last for up to four weeks. Thrives in USDA zones 4-9.

7. Baby Pink – ‘Sarah Bernhardt’

If there is a poster child for peonies, the ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ peony (Paeonia x lactiflora) is it. This luscious pink peony, named after the famed French actress, is one of the best pink flowers you can grow and one of the most coveted peonies in the world,

This rose pink peony’s sumptuous double flowers are full and fluffy, and exactly the color of spring blossoms. Fertilize in spring and grow in full sun or partial shade to enjoy this ruffled beauty at its best. Flourishes in USDA zones 4-8.

8. Mahogany – ‘Buckeye Belle’

‘Buckeye Belle’ (Paeonia officinalis x albiflora) is one of the most popular species of peonies. Gardeners swoon over its velvety, mahogany flowers – which present with a rich chocolate red color.

These flowers are semi-doubles and held high on sturdy 30-inch (75cm) stems. Lovers of black flower types will appreciate the rich notes this peony brings to a moody or gothic garden display. These beauties carry a light, entrancing fragrance. Happy in USDA zones 4-8.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Long-lived and beautiful, peonies are a captivating staple of the early-season ornamental landscape – and ‘Karl Rosenfield’ is an especially gorgeous example. If you grow ‘Karl Rosenfield’ peony plants, you’ll enjoy an impressive blooming season of rich red, frilly blooms, an intoxicating fragrance, and a dependable habit.

With their attractive foliage and ease of care, this is one of the most showstopping double-blooming types of peonies you can grow. They make stunning specimen shrubs in beds, borders and cutting gardens, as well as exquisite foundation plants. This guide explains how to cultivate your own ‘Karl Rosenfield’ peony plant so you can appreciate its unique ornamental qualities for decades to come.

Caring for ‘Karl Rosenfield’ Peony

The ‘Karl Rosenfield’ double peony is one of the most easygoing peonies you can grow. With a little ongoing peony care each year, you should be enjoying its blooms for decades. These pink peony types suit contemporary and classic themes, and ideal in mixed borders and foundation plantings near porches and patios.

Though this peony variety will tolerate hot summer conditions, you should just check for stress if the temperature climb. Otherwise, just follow these essential guidelines for the best care:

• Lighting Conditions: Ample light is essential to ‘Karl Rosenfield’ peony care. Although some peonies do well in shade, these plants need at least 6-8 hours of full sun each day. This will aid in the development of a robust root system and optimal flowering. Inadequate light causes shrubs to grow especially tall or flower poorly.
• Temperature & Humidity: Peonies will perform well in all but the warmest regions. Mature plants, which require exposure to cooler temperatures through their dormancy period, are especially well-suited to cold climates. Mild weather in spring will further promote growth. Conditions between 65-75°F (18-24°C) are ideal.

• Watering: While some regions will receive sufficient rainfall to meet the needs of these shrubs, others may require more frequent irrigation. This is especially true in the case of those grown for display or cut flower gardens. As a general guideline, water peony plants deeply, at a rate of approximately 1in (2.5cm) per week.
• Fertilizing: ‘Karl Rosenfield’ peonies respond well to feeding in spring, just as the plant's foliage emerges from the soil. Use a well-balanced, slow-release fertilizer to assist the development of foliage and flowers during the peony growing season. Bloom boosters or liquid feeds may also be applied through spring.
• Soil & Compost: Plant into a rich, well-draining loam. Though these shrubs are adapted to a wide range of soil types, most perform best in neutral or slightly acidic conditions. Quality compost and a variety of other amendments can be used to improve soil structure, drainage and fertility levels.

When to Plant ‘Karl Rosenfield’ Peonies

The ideal time to plant ‘Karl Rosenfield’ peony bushes is when conditions are cool. These shrubs, which are most commonly grown from bare roots, should be planted in fall. This will allow ample time for the development of new roots while conditions are cool.

Having a chance to settle in through winter will further aid in their establishment, enabling you to be on top of things ahead of your spring care peony routine and resulting in the production of much stronger foliage in their first season. Though it is not ideal, roots may also be planted as soon as the soil can be worked in spring.

How to Plant ‘Karl Rosenfield’ Peonies

Prepare to plant these peony roots by first working the planting bed. Each planting hole should be twice the width and depth of the root. Place into the hole, carefully backfilling the soil. Each root eye should remain no deeper than 2in (5cm) below the soil. This will aid in growth and help new plants to break dormancy in spring.

New peonies may also be planted into pots. Those hoping to grow ‘Karl Rosenfield’ peony plants in a container should ensure that the pots drain well and are large enough to meet the needs of mature specimens. You can expect up to 70 years of gorgeous peony blooms. If you meet these basic planting and cultivation needs.

Pruning Your ‘Karl Rosenfield’ Peony

‘Karl Rosenfield’ peonies benefit greatly from routine deadheading throughout the growing season. This is especially true of younger plants, as the removal of spent buds will help to prevent the production of seed.

Though optional, end-of-season peony pruning will further aid in plant health. Foliage which has been allowed to die back naturally can be removed to maintain a tidy appearance and reduce the occurrence of common peony infections.

Peony Problems, Pests & Diseases

Though your plants will only seldom be troubled by pests, there is a small risk of peony disease. Fungal infections affecting foliage and flowers are most likely. Infections of this type include botrytis blight, leaf spot, wilt and various types of rot.

Most of these diseases will be the direct result of soilborne pathogens, transmitted through the garden by wind, water or other means. Fungal infections tend to occur where conditions are damp and air flow is poor. Ensure you avoid poor drainage or air circulation to prevent disease.

Propagating ‘Karl Rosenfield’ Peonies

‘Karl Rosenfield’ peonies are best multiplied through division. This will help to ensure that each new plant will be like the parent. Division should occur when shrubs are dormant, lifting roots from the soil carefully. Cut each ball into small segments. Healthy divisions should consist of several eyes, or growing points. These can be positioned directly into new beds.

Alternatively, you can plant peonies into individual containers. Though growth will resume in spring, it takes several seasons before the appearance of their first blooms. Peonies may also be grown from seed, although resultant plants will differ from their parents in terms of their traits and characteristics.

Frequently Asked Questions

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‘Coral Charm’ peony plants are best known for their striking salmon pink tones. These herbaceous peonies are amongst the first flowering shrubs to bloom in late spring and early summer, enchanting with their beauty and abundance. In terms of the best ‘Coral Charm’ peony care, these distinctively tinted peony types are easy to grow once established, thriving for decades with minimum maintenance.

Thanks to their strong stems and generously blessed heads, these peonies are ideal for beds and borders, cottage gardens and cutting gardens, bouquets and romantic floral arrangements. Here’s how to master the relatively modest needs of the ‘Coral Charm’ peony bush, so you can be assured of a profusion of coral perfection for many years to come.

Caring for 'Coral Charm' Peony

Vibrant ‘Coral Charm’ peony plants are ideal for borders and perennial beds. As with other types of pink peonies, they are especially well-suited to foundation plantings and areas near patios and pathways, where passers-by can enjoy their fragrance and color.

The compact nature of this vibrant peony breed means it also works well in container culture, as long as you choose a large planter and nourish it well. Understanding peony ‘Coral Charm’ care is integral to continued growth, vitality and longevity. Here are the main peony care essentials to get the best from this stylish cultivar:

• Lighting Conditions: Although some peonies do well in shade, a ‘Coral Charm’ peony plant needs to be grown in full, bright sun. Ample light aids the development of buds in spring and encourages a strong floral display. Low light is likely to negatively impact growth.
• Temperature & Humidity: These peonies are praised for their hardiness.You can expect shrubs to overwinter with ease, withstanding cold even in inhospitable climates. Plants also demonstrate an impressive tolerance to heat and humidity. ‘Coral Charm’ can thrive throughout many warm-summer regions.

• Watering: Routine watering is an essential part of ‘Coral Charm’ peony care. Well-established plants will survive without supplemental irrigation, but frequent watering helps to promote root growth and encourages blooming. Water peonies deeply and from below, at a rate of around 1in (2.5cm) of liquid a week.
• Fertilizing: A well-timed fertilizer can greatly impact beauty and health before, after and during the peony growing season. Feed with a slow-release general fertilizer in spring, just as foliage emerges from the soil. Bloom boosters or liquid feeds may also be applied through spring, ceasing with the appearance of the plant's first buds.
• Soil & Compost: Grow ‘Coral Charm’ peonies in rich, fertile soil, amended with a quality compost to aid composition and nutrients. Good drainage is also key. Though peonies are well adapted to a variety of soil conditions, those which demonstrate a slight acidity often result in the hardiest shrubs.

When to Plant 'Coral Charm' Peony

The ideal time to plant ‘Coral Charm’ peony bushes is when conditions are cool. It's best to plant in the fall, several weeks before the arrival of the first frost. This will allow ample time for root development through autumn and into winter. It also means you can hit the ground running for your spring care peony routine when plants start to wake up.

Dormant plants moved into beds in autumn are likely to result in stronger, healthier plants in their first season. Bare roots can be planted in spring, though you can expect a slow rate of growth through the first summer. Continued care is essential with bare root plantings, and routine watering fosters growth and prevents stress.

How to Plant 'Coral Charm' Peony

Peonies are most commonly grown from bare roots, each containing a number of eyes. These can be found at garden centers through early spring and in fall. Prepare the planting site by digging a hole, approximately twice the depth and width of the bare root. Place into amended soil, making certain that each eye remains upwards.

Use a thin layer of your preferred soil medium to cover the eyes, firming the soil around the planting as you do so. Avoid situating the roots too deeply, as this may negatively impact plant growth the following spring. Get the planting and cultivation right, and you can look forward to over 70 years of gorgeous peony blooms.

Pruning Your 'Coral Charm' Peony

‘Coral Charm’ peonies benefit from careful pruning. Peony pruning for this cultivar generally begins in summer, when the flower heads of plants need deadheading. The removal of spent or faded flowers during this time will prevent the production of seeds, and help the shrubs divert their energy to continued growth.

Plants also benefit from end-of-season cutting, when dried foliage can be removed back to the ground in preparation for winter.

Peony Problems, Pests & Diseases

Though peony diseases and pests only seldom result in their loss, problems with the plant can severely impact their appearance. Fungal infections such as blight or leaf spot can be most troublesome. These are most likely to occur where growing conditions are damp and air flow is poor. Ensure you avoid poor drainage or air circulation to prevent disease.

Aphids, mealybugs and other pests are also likely. Try to keep a close eye on plants, check regularly and manage pest numbers with regular applications of an organic spray or diluted soap.

Propagating 'Coral Charm' Peonies

Though it is possible to take root cuttings of your peony, propagation by division is the most popular method. After your ‘Coral Charm’ peony season is over, dormant plants can be lifted from growing beds. Excess soil is then removed from the roots. Cut apart the ball, dividing the eyes into new plants. Replant roots back into the garden immediately.

Alternatively, you can plant peonies in individual containers. Peonies may also be grown from seed, although resultant plants will differ from their parents in terms of their traits and characteristics.

Frequently Asked Questions

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• There’s no need to wait for summer if you’re looking for some of the earliest and most sensational spring florals. Grow these spectacular spring flowering bushes for some of the most vibrant warm-up acts in the gardening calendar.
• Looking for a little razzle-dazzle in your blooming bushes but not sure which shade is best? Go elegant and ultra bright with white flowering shrubs – guaranteed to ramp up the wow factor in your yard.

My gardening friends occasionally ask me about the best time to move peonies. For anyone who loves growing these lovely flowers, ongoing peony care can quickly become a year-long obsession – even if the payoff is that you will only see those gorgeous blooms for a few weeks.

However briefly, guaranteeing that those peony bushes produce a lovely flush of large dramatic flowers is a serious business. And while peonies are easy to plant and to care for, the issue of moving (or transplanting) will inevitably come up if you are looking to grow plants with real staying power.

Peony plants may not require division, but growers often want to split the roots to produce more plants, or simply to move established peonies to a new location. And doing this well can help to boost the health and vitality of your plants. Knowing how to rejuvenate peonies is a win-win in terms of plant strength and flowering potential. So let’s take a closer look at the best time to transplant peonies, as well as the proper procedure to ensure the healthiest and happiest plants possible.

Why Should You Transplant a Peony?

Unlike many perennials, peony plants can grow for decades without much care from growers. In fact, root division of peonies as a means for propagation is one of the few instances in which many gardeners tend to dig their peony bushes. Still, there are occasions when dividing and transplanting a peony can help rejuvenate a plant and give it a new lease of life. So knowing when to transplant a peony is key.

Determining when to divide peonies depends on the season and the overall age of the plant. Ideally, good candidates for division should be plants that are well established, visibly healthy and showing no sign of disease or stress. Fall is the best time to move herbaceous peonies, when they are well past growth and entering dormancy. So if you are going to do it, it should be part of your peony fall care routine. You can begin digging and dividing the shrubs once the plants have started to die back naturally, usually around the arrival of the first frost.

Why Transplant a Peony in the Fall?

Due to cooler growing conditions, transplanting peonies in fall will often result in more robust plants. Gardeners looking to reduce the risks of peony disease should definitely be replanting at this quieter end of the year. This allows ample time for new plantings to establish a stronger root system before the arrival of spring, which marks the active production of new stems and leaves. If you’re keen to maintain a peony that can last for decades, transplanting will keep it coming back strong.

When replanting peonies, gardeners will still need to account for specific growth requirements of the plant. This means that each site should be amended and drain exceptionally well. Though peony plants will be able to adapt to locations with partial shade, they will produce the most blooms where they are able to receive full sun.

How to Divide a Peony Plant in Fall

To begin digging the peonies, first consider whether or not you’d like to remove the entire plant or just smaller sections.When dividing the roots, it may be easier to dig and remove small portions of the plant. The process of digging, dividing and transplanting the entire peony plant requires more effort. Using a spade like the one in this tool set from Amazon, carefully dig around the perimeter of each plant, working in a large circle to avoid damaging the plant’s roots. The peony plant can then be lifted and rinsed of excess soil.

Once the excess soil has been removed, use a pair of shears to separate root pieces, making certain each segment has at least three to five viable growing eyes. If you only want to transplant the peony to a new location, this step can be skipped, allowing for the entire root ball to be moved to the new planting site.

How to Transplant a Peony Plant in Fall

To transplant peonies in fall, dig a shallow hole approximately twice the width of the root. Place the root into the hole, laying it flat and making certain each of the growing eyes are pointed up. Carefully backfill the hole, so each growing eye is covered with no more than two inches (5cm) of soil. Peonies which have been planted too deeply may struggle to emerge in spring, or may fail to bloom. Finally, bear in mind that divided peonies may take one or two additional seasons before they bloom again.

Peony lovers understandably feel spoiled for choice when it comes to making that perfect selection for yards and growing spaces. The Sarah Bernhardt peony stands proud as one of the finest cultivars you can grow. For anyone passionate about growing peonies, this one has a peerless reputation for excellence, and deservedly so.

The Sarah Bernhardt peony has a dramatic flower meaning behind its striking moniker. It was named in honor of a popular French actress of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The variety was created by Victor Lemoine in 1906 and named in celebration of his favorite performer. Today, it has an enduring reputation as one of the most charming peonies you can grow, with its double petals and rich rose hues. Here’s how to grow and cultivate your own enchanting garden performers.

Sarah Bernhardt Peony Care

Paeonia Sarah Bernhardt wows with its double, elegantly pink, 7-9-inch (18-23cm) blooms. For admirers of pink peony types, this one is sublime. The plant provides three seasons of interest with deep buds in spring, early summer pink flowers, and a fall foliar display of bronze and purple. This is an herbaceous peony, not the tree peony variety. Here are some of the key cultivation requirements:

• Light Conditions: As with other herbaceous peonies, Sarah Bernhardt peonies perform well in full sun to light shade, but they do prefer afternoon shade.
• Watering: Newly introduced plants should be kept moist until they establish. Give the plant one inch (2.5cm) of water weekly. The Sarah Bernhardt peony likes cool, damp soil, but the site must be well draining. Established plants need a deep watering every 10 days. Water when the top few inches (8cm) feel dry to the touch.
• Temperature & Humidity: Peonies need a chill period to promote blooming. Exposure to temperatures between 30-50 degrees Fahrenheit (-1-10°C) for a couple of months is essential to bring out the flower buds. Average preferred daytime temperatures are 65-75°F (18-24°C). Nighttime temperatures of 10-15°F (-12 to -9°C) are perfect for Sarah Bernhardt peonies. These plants like the humidity levels in the middle ranges. A humidity range of 40-70 percent will keep the plant happy.
• Soil & Compost: Peonies like a bit of moisture but the soil must drain well to prevent root rots. Rich, loamy, soil is ideal. If your soil is poor or heavy clay, amend it with compost or other organic amendments to increase tilth and nutrient content. Peonies prefer a soil pH of 6.5-7.
• Fertilizer Needs: Peonies will bloom well and thrive with an annual application in spring of a balanced fertilizer such as 1-1-1. Avoid fertilizing peonies with heavy nitrogen content, as this will promote leaf growth but minimize buds.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

In heavy soil, these plants may fail to thrive. Plants with little protection from searing sun rays can also burn. However, Sarah Bernhardt peonies are deer resistant and generally unbothered by insect pests. The most common diseases you are likely to encounter are honey fungus, verticillium wilt, peony leaf blotch and peony leaf wilt. In order to prevent fungal diseases, avoid overhead watering this peony.

Pruning Sarah Bernhardt Peonies

As with other flowering shrubs, a little deadheading can be critical to long-term health and productivity. Unless you are overly concerned about seed set, deadheading a Sarah Bernhardt peony is a wise move. Remove the spent blooms as they occur to keep the plant attractive. This may also encourage the formation of new buds. It’s also a good idea to prune peony foliage after the first frost, or when the leaves begin to change color. Cut the stems back to nearly ground level.

Sarah Bernhardt Peony Propagation

The Sarah Bernhardt peony may be propagated by seed, division, root cuttings, grafting or air layering. By far the easiest method is division. After the foliage is cut back, lift the peony plant from the soil. Cut off any sections of the plant that include three buds and enough root, then replant these individually. Water in well after replanting.

Red Sarah Bernhardt Peony

The red Sarah Bernhardt peony has evocative lush and fluffy blooms, but it is not a real red version of the light pink Sarah Bernhardt. Hailing from China, it is quite distinct from the similarly named herbaceous peony. Indeed, it isn’t even red. It was bred to have a deeper color than Sarah Bernhardt. While it is not a true red, the flower color is darker and leans towards fuschia, rather than the classic pale pink of the original Sarah Bernhardt.

Repotting Sarah Bernhardt Peonies

Container-bound Sarah Bernhardt peonies have a deep taproot. If you are growing in a container, there are only a few things to remember. The plants do not like to be moved, so wait until it is absolutely necessary to change the soil. Repot the plant at the end of the season, when it has gone dormant. Make sure to protect containerized peonies from winter freezes by moving the container indoors. Use well-draining potting soil as the medium.

Frequently Asked Questions

Did you ever wonder what peonies symbolize? With such stunning blossoms, we can correctly assume there is some ancient peony flower meaning ascribed to them. Classic garden flowers that evoke old-fashioned elegance, peonies are a harbinger of summer that bloom in late spring, their flowers lasting only a precious week or two. But when the bush is in flower, the effect for anyone who grows peonies is stunning.

While we can admire their gorgeous hues and textures, there is an impressive backstory to these blowsy blooms which is also worth considering. They have an interesting history and, not surprisingly, peony symbolism goes well beyond its beauty. Read on to find out more about some of the mythology behind the peony.

What Do Peonies Symbolize?

There are four main types of peonies: tree, herbaceous, hybrid, and intersectional. The latter is a cross between tree and herbaceous varieties. Native to Asia, Southern Europe and North America, peonies in one form or another have been cultivated for centuries. Tree peonies, in particular, have connections with Far Eastern dynasties and were highly prized by royals. The plants were first cultivated in China and used in medicine. Known as “the king of flowers” they were closely associated with royalty.

Peonies 2,000 years ago were primarily grown for their medicinal tubers. These were used to treat stomach pain, night sweats and sores. The root of the tree peony was used to cool and move blood, while the herbaceous tuber increased the energy of the blood. The bark, seeds and flowers also treated various ailments. The Chinese name for the peony is mudan, which translates to ‘red’, but can also mean ‘medicine’ or ‘healing’.

Historical Peony Cultivation

Initially grown as a medicine, the plant’s unparalleled beauty soon found it a place in formal gardens. The tree peony was grown for its flowers in the 6th and 7th centuries. In the Sui and Tang dynasties, it had a prominent place in the royal gardens. It is often called luoyang hua, after the city of Luoyang where it was thought to be grown first as an ornamental.

Extensive breeding led to 30 different cultivars by the 16th century. The flower became a symbol of wealth and elevated sums were paid for certain species. Today, exhibitions of the plants are still commonplace in Luoyang.

The European Peony Craze

Around the early 1800s, peonies were imported to Europe from China. France started the breeding trend and the hobby soon spread across Europe. In Europe the plant was known as the rose with no thorns. By the 1850s, the plant had spread to North America. Breeders focused on producing plants for the cut flower industry. Eventually, the bushes became popular landscape plants. In 1950, there were 90 North American peony breeders in the American Peony Society.

Modern Peony Flower Meaning

The floral industry is big business and has made it a practice to assign meanings to various flowers in an effort to market them for certain special occasions. Peony meaning, according to the industry, has variously come to encapsulate honor, prosperity, happy marriage, wealth, romance, bashfulness, happiness and good fortune, depending on hue, petal texture and breeding intention. The flower often makes its way into bridal bouquets and assorted flower arrangements.

Chinese Fable of the Peony

The peony plant’s popularity over the centuries has led to it being featured in poems, plays and other art forms. A classic fable, The Fabulous Peony, sees the wicked Empress Wu Zetian decreeing that all peonies in the garden would bloom overnight. The Male Vermillion Peony refused this order and was banished from the palace. The Empress stated that anyone growing this peony would be put to death. But the imperial gardener, Pei Fu, sent the roots of the plant to Luoyang. Secret gardens cultivated the plant until the Empress’s death, when the plant came out of hiding and was celebrated.

Peony Symbolism Throughout History

Various species of peony symbolize different things, depending on place and circumstance. The vermillion male flower of the tree peony, for instance, represented aristocracy and royalty. In China today, the flower symbolizes friendship, good luck and feminine beauty. It is also the official flower to celebrate 12 years of marriage.

The tree peony is one of the four flowers that represent the seasons. Appropriately enough, given when the peony is in season, it symbolizes the spring. In Japan, the flower represents good fortune, bravery, honor and wealth, and has a decided masculine presence.

Historically, the plant was often displayed in palaces and depicted in art. It was found in silk textiles, china plates, murals, and more. When combined with a phoenix, lion, pheasant or peacock, the peony reference reflects splendor, nobility and status. In floral arrangements, when combined with narcissus, the peony’s meaning is long life, wealth and honor.

Frequently Asked Questions

People often wonder if peonies are poisonous for cats because many cats seem to be attracted to the sweet nectar and fragrance of the plants. Peonies are gorgeous spring and early summer blooms that put on a big show in the garden. We love the large, elegant blooms in garden beds and cut flower arrangements, but we also love our pets. Are peonies toxic to cats? Unfortunately, the answer is yes.

If you have cats and want to grow peonies or display them indoors, consider how you can keep your felines safe. Cats are often attracted to aromatic plants and flowers, and may be curious enough to nibble on the leaves, blossoms or stems of your peonies. Although peonies are poisonous to cats, it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t grow them. With the right precautions it’s still possible to enjoy peonies while your pets are around. But, be mindful of the signs of peony poisoning and what to do if your cats do eat any part of the plant.

What Parts of Peonies Are Poisonous to Cats?

Peonies have been used over the centuries by herbalists in Europe and Asia to treat human ailments, and they’re still being studied for the healing properties of the alkaloids and glucosides in their roots. However, they simply don’t agree with domesticated pets. Peonies are toxic to cats because they contain a substance called paeonol. Cats’ systems cannot break down ingested paeonol, and ingesting it results in gastrointestinal distress for them. Every part of the peony contains paeonol, but it is most concentrated in the stems.

What if My Cat Eats a Peony?

Ingesting paeonol causes gastrointestinal symptoms in cats because they can’t digest it. Possible signs of peony ingestion include:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Depression and lethargy

If your cat ingested only a very small amount of a peony plant, he may have very mild or no symptoms, but the more the cat eats, the more severe the symptoms will be. Fortunately, peony ingestion is not usually fatal. If your cat ate only a small amount, observe them for symptoms. Do not attempt to induce vomiting.

Call your vet or a pet poison hotline if your cat ate a significant amount of a peony, especially if you are unsure how much, or if you are concerned about ongoing symptoms. A vet can provide supportive care, such as fluids, and observe your cat to keep her safe as the toxin passes through her system.

How to Keep Cats Away from Peonies

It’s possible to enjoy peonies even if you have cats. If your pets spend time outdoors they may find other plants like catnip more attractive, but it’s good to protect them from peonies with fencing or tomato cages, just in case. Perhaps luring them to other parts of the garden is the best tactic. The sweet sticky nectar on the peony flower may interest them, so be sure to provide other more fascinating or appetizing pursuits for them.

It’s a little trickier to protect your cats if you’re keeping cut peonies in arrangements indoors. Cut peonies should be out of their reach, which may mean placing them in a high spot where the cats cannot access them. Of course, cats are generally good at getting up to high places. If you aren’t able to keep an eye on your fur babies, consider keeping cut peonies in a room in which you can close the door to keep your kitties out or, again, find something more interesting and appealing to distract them from the peonies.

Are Some Peony Varieties Safe for Cats?

All types of peonies contain paeonol and no variety is safer than another. However, there are plenty of other garden plants and cut flowers that are safe for cats. If you’re looking for showy flowers with a sweet fragrance, try growing plants like roses. Other beautiful flowers safe for cats include Gerbera daisies, sunflowers, orchids, snapdragons, and freesia.

Frequently Asked Questions

With their sweet fragrance and impressive bloom, it is easy to understand why peonies are such a popular choice for the home landscape. Though their flowering period is limited, from spring to early summer, gardeners can expect continued beauty throughout the season. Thick, glossy foliage grows to form dense shrubs, and only a little peony care is needed in order to thrive.

Some tasks, however, should not be ignored. This includes pruning, or cutting back plants, in preparation for winter. This guide aims to discuss how and when to cut back peonies, with a special focus on herbaceous types, so as to ensure their return season after season.

Why You Need to Cut Back Peonies

To better understand when to cut back peonies for winter, growers should first consider the rationale behind the process. Though peony shrubs can be trimmed periodically throughout summer to remove diseased or damaged stems, all foliage should be left in the garden as long as possible.

During this time, plants will continue to absorb light and convert it into much-needed energy, to be used the following season. This stored energy will aid in the growth and development of shrubs in spring, and their overall production of flowers. Although peony pruning is eventually important to long-term health, cutting too soon will rob plants of vital nutrients, often resulting in poor performance.

So if you are worried about when to cut back peony plants, take your time. Proper removal of foliage will also play a major role in garden health. The clipping and removal of all decaying plant matter will greatly help to prevent the spread of disease and their recurrence the following season.

When to Cut Back Peonies

There’s little doubt that cutting back shrubs can be beneficial, but when should you cut back peonies? In most instances, when to cut back peony bushes will be determined by the weather. Plants will begin to yellow and die back to the ground in fall. This should occur naturally and generally coincides with the first hard frost of the season. It is at this time that gardeners can begin to safely cut back the plants.

It is not uncommon for peonies to become messy or look unkempt in late summer. Growers hoping to tidy these beds can make use of light trimming or deadheading peonies to help improve their overall appearance.

Cutting Back To Control Disease

As noted, cutting back peonies in fall is essential to the control of disease. Infections like botrytis and powdery mildew are most common, each surviving winter amid infected foliage. By cutting and removing all plant matter from the garden, the spread of peony diseases can be prevented.

Treatment of plants and soil with fungicide can further help to control disease, with these growers opting to take a more proactive approach. So in deciding when to cut back peonies, keep a close eye on the overall health of the plant – especially the foliage – because this might turn out to be just as important as seasonality.

Trimming Different Peonies

To this point, we have exclusively discussed the needs of herbaceous peony species. However, care in terms of pruning will vary between different types of peony shrub. How and when to cut back Itoh peonies, for example, will differ. The same can be said of tree peonies, which require very little pruning, if any.

Familiarizing oneself with each peony variety to be grown in your garden will be essential to their overall care. Knowledge is power if you want to be certain that plants are healthy and happy for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions

Peony Care Essentials

• These Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon will make peony trimming a breeze
• Back to the Roots Organic Bone Meal from Amazon will promote bigger blooms on your peony plants
• An easy-to-install drip irrigation kit from Amazon will help ensure your peonies are watered regularly at the roots

If you are new to growing Chinese tree peony plants in the garden, you’ll enjoy their attractive foliage and dramatic blooms. Much like the herbaceous peony species, Paeonia lactiflora, Chinese tree peonies are known for both their hardiness and longevity.

Learning more about Chinese tree peony versus peony lactiflora varieties can help you make better-informed decisions about which of these dazzling blooming perennials will be best for your particular space. In this growing guide, we will explore how to grow Chinese peonies, and how you can easily master peony care for these unique floral beauties.

Care for Chinese Tree Peonies

Every peony requires tender loving care, but Chinese tree peonies (aka Moutan peonies) have specific requirements against other peony types, especially when it comes to lighting, warmth, soil quality and watering. The following conditions are recommended for Chinese tree peony care:

• Lighting Conditions: Though it is possible to grow tree peonies in full sun, it’s not recommended in regions where conditions are harsh. Aim for a spot that receives partial sun throughout the day, or four-six hours. Beds with dappled light are also an option, with plants thriving near mature trees or in other lightly shaded areas.
• Temperature & Humidity: Tree peonies are adaptable in a wide range of temperatures. With excellent tolerance to cold, these plants can withstand sudden changes in spring weather with relative ease. Roots, stems, foliage and developing buds are only seldom damaged by cold. However, you can mulch peony beds in winter or otherwise protect plants, especially those in pots and containers.
• Watering Needs: While tolerant to drought, tree peonies require supplemental water where conditions are dry. Water deeply at the root zone. This can be done weekly, but it will vary depending on your region’s rainfall. These peonies will not tolerate wet or poorly-drained soils, so exercise caution to avoid overwatering.
• Fertilizing: Tree peonies respond well to fertilizer. Balanced, slow-release feeds can aid new plants as they become established, and help boost root development. Feed in early fall, just as the weather begins to cool. Liquid fertilizers are also useful and allow for rapid uptake in nutrients through the plant’s leaves. Foliar feeds can also be most effective in early spring before the peonies have started to bud.
• Soil & Compost: Tree peonies thrive in rich, loam soils. They are considered heavy feeders, so good soil quality is crucial. Finished compost, worm castings and various other amendments, determined by a soil test, can be added to beds at planting.

When and How to Plant Chinese Tree Peony

Though the needs of the plant can change between Chinese peony growth stages, how to grow Chinese peony plants differs very little from their herbaceous relatives. Tree peonies are most commonly planted from roots. Though more common types may be available at local garden centers, rare varieties often need to be ordered online. Fall planting will be key, as prolonged periods of cooler weather at this time will allow roots to begin to grow. Each peony should be situated so grafted sections of the plant are well below the soil, with the woody tree-like stems remaining upright.

Chinese Tree Peony Deadheading and Pruning

Like most flowering plants, Chinese tree peony care includes both deadheading and pruning. Deadheading, or the removal of faded flowers, helps to keep plants looking tidy as well as preventing the production of seed. This allows the peony to divert much-needed energy into other vital plant processes. To deadhead tree peonies, simply snip each stem directly below the base of the bloom.

Understanding the growth habit of tree peonies is vital to pruning them. Unlike their herbaceous counterparts, these species will not die back to the ground in fall. Instead, these plants lose their foliage, leaving woody stems throughout winter. Though it is possible to prune tree peonies to manage their size, be wary to avoid over-trimming. Do not remove more than approximately one-fourth of the entire length of each stem. That way, you can be sure of growing Chinese tree peony plants with real staying power.

Problems, Pests and Diseases

Though generally carefree, Chinese tree peonies are prone to several problems. Most common among these are fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, botrytis and blight. Routinely monitor these trees for distinctive changes in foliage and the presence of other symptoms. This can help you to quickly diagnose them and devise a treatment plan. This is essential in preventing the spread of disease throughout your garden and reducing plant losses.

How to Propagate Chinese Tree Peony

Tree peonies are most frequently propagated in three ways: from seed, through division and by grafting. While plants grown from seed will not grow true to type, it allows the opportunity to diversify beds and create crosses. Germination time varies, with most seeds beginning to grow within several months to a year.

For anyone interested in growing Chinese tree peony plants from scratch, peony propagation through division should be done only with mature, own-root plants. Peonies are first lifted from the soil. After excess dirt has been removed from the roots, cut each section of the plant apart. New segments, complete with their root system, can then be replanted into the garden or potted into their own containers.

Grafting can also be used to successfully propagate tree peonies. In most cases, herbaceous peony roots are selected as rootstock. Tree peony scions are then inserted into the root, and sealed tightly. Prepared grafts are then placed into sand where they will continue to heal.

Frequently Asked Questions

When peonies are in season they are the showstoppers of the garden with their large, exuberant flowers. They add an element of beauty, elegance, and old-fashioned romance to flower beds.

When are peony flowers in season? This is a critical question because each individual plant only blooms for about a week. Understanding the seasonality of different peony types and cultivars can give you more continuous flowering.

When Are Peonies in Season?

There is some variation by location and climate, but generally, peonies bloom from late spring to early summer. Depending on where you live and the types of peonies you have, you could enjoy blooms from early May through June.

What Season Are Peonies in Bloom By Type?

One of the most important factors in determining when your peonies will flower is type. There are four main types of peony plants:

• Woodland Peony - Paeonia obovate is an herbaceous species native to eastern Asia that grows in the understory of forests. This type blooms first, around early May depending on location.
• Tree Peony - Paeonia suffruticosa is a woody small shrub native to Asia that blooms around the middle of May.
• Herbaceous Peony - Paeonia lactiflora is the most common type of garden peony used in North America. It is an herbaceous perennial that can live for 50 or even 100 years in some cases. This type has a wide range of bloom types depending on the cultivar. They bloom between mid-May and mid-June.
• Intersectional Peony - Also known as Itoh, intersectional peonies are hybrid crosses of tree and herbaceous peonies. They bloom as the herbaceous types are fading in mid-June. Each plant can bloom for three to four weeks.

What Month Are Peonies in Season by Variety?

You can also stagger cultivars of herbaceous perennials to get a longer flower duration. Here are some examples:

• Early and Mid-May – ‘Coral Charm,’ ‘Wonderous Delight,’ ‘Red Charm,’ and ‘Early Bird’
• Mid-May to June – ‘Festiva Maxima,’ ‘Etched Salmon,’ ‘Walter Mains,’ and ‘Sarah Bernhardt’
• Mid-June to Early July – ‘Kansas,’ ‘Candy Stripe,’ and ‘Garden Treasure’

Which Factors Can Affect Peony Blooming?

In addition to type, environmental factors affect when and how well your peony blooms. Peony chill hours, for instance, mean the plants must have a sustained period of winter cold (below 45 degrees Fahrenheit or 7 Celsius) to trigger the growth of buds. In spring, peonies need a certain number of dark hours overnight to bloom properly.

Different types and varieties of peonies have different cold and dark requirements. Generally, early bloomers have lower cold requirements and shorter dark periods, while the opposite is true for late bloomers.

How You Can Extend Peony Blooming

For the longest duration of peony blooms, use a variety of types and cultivars. You can potentially get eight weeks of stunning peony flowers this way. Also important is providing your peonies with the best conditions to grow and thrive.

Start with location and planting. Except for woodland types, peonies grow best in full sun. They will not flower as well with too much shade. They should be planted shallowly in the soil. Deep planting delays blooming. Keep the root buds about two inches (5 cm) below the soil level.

The soil should be rich and stay moderately moist, but it must also drain very well. Peonies will not tolerate soggy roots and appreciate rich, fertile soil. Use a balanced fertilizer in spring before new growth appears. Avoid a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, which will encourage leaf growth rather than flowers.

Frequently Asked Questions

A dependable perennial, peonies are celebrated for their vibrant color and immense visual impact. Long-lived shrubs impart lasting beauty into the home landscape, thriving for decades with only little care from gardeners.

If you're growing peonies, you can expect large, highly-fragrant blooms to grace the stems of plants seasonally, beginning in spring and lasting until mid summer. But, what happens once their magnificent blooms finally begin to fade? This guide serves to take a closer look at the process of deadheading peonies, as well as continued care for the plants throughout the season.

Why You Need to Deadhead Peonies

Though the beauty of peony blooms is often described as fleeting, peonies are a much-welcomed addition to perennial garden beds and mixed borders. Their tidy, no-fuss look can be achieved easily, by deadheading peony plants after their flowers have started to fade. This occurs when each petal begins to wilt or dry, eventually falling from the bloom.

Large seed pods at the center of the flower will also begin to swell at this time. This indicates the potential that pollination has occurred and can even signal the start of seed production.

Though seed-set is essential if you're s hoping to breed your own peonies, it can also affect overall plant health. This is especially true in bushes that are young, or that have been planted only recently. Deadheading, and the subsequent removal of developing seed pods, will help plants to direct energy to the development of a robust root system and to the production of buds the following spring.

How To Deadhead Peonies

Though peonies are a popular cut flower, frequently used in arrangements and bouquets, many prefer to enjoy their blooms in the garden. A number of factors can affect their longevity. Rain, temperature, and a variety of other conditions may affect bloom quality and how quickly flowers begin to fade. Identifying tired buds will be the first step in learning how to deadhead peonies after blooming. You should deadhead peony flowers are:

• damaged
• showing signs of disease
• have simply lost their petals

Spent flowers should be removed carefully, using a clean pair of bypass pruners or shears. With stem in hand, follow it back to its nearest growth point. Cuts should be made at a 45-degree angle, slanting away from any remaining foliage or buds. Doing so will help to camouflage cut stems, shape shrubs, and prevent the occurrence of disease.

Though most varieties of peonies respond well to deadheading in this manner, some types will require more specialized treatment. This includes tree peonies, which should trimmed only minimally each season.

What Happens if You Don’t Deadhead Peonies

Even if you forget to deadhead peonies after blooming, you can still remove the seed pods at any point in the season.

Allowing flowers to remain until frost will not negatively impact the plant’s health. However, deadheading at the correct time will allow plants to divert energy elsewhere, rather than to the production of seed. This will result in hardier, bushier growth in the following season, as well as an increased production of flower buds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Peony diseases are sure to distress any gardener. These beloved perennials are essential ornamental plants. When you grow peonies the right way, they produce a show-stopping display that lasts a short time in late spring. Their gorgeous, ephemeral display makes them the crown jewel of many a garden. But it’s also why peony diseases are so devastating.

Many diseases left unchecked can ruin blooms, often for several years, leaving a major gap in the spring garden. But learning how to identify, prevent, and treat common peony diseases, will ensure you have happy, healthy plants full of blooms for many years to come.

Common Peony Diseases

Like other ornamental plant issues, peony problems emerge when growing conditions are less than ideal. This includes adequate plant spacing, sunlight, as well as drainage.

Though peonies are generally quite robust, problems may vary from one season to the next. Recognizing the signs of common peony plant diseases, like spots on peony leaves or peonies not blooming, will help you decide how to treat them. Let’s take a look at the most common peony diseases home gardeners face.

1. Botrytis Blight

Botrytis blight is the most common peony disease. It’s prevalent during rainy spring seasons. Dark brown spots appear on young peony growth in early spring. Shoots can then suddenly wilt and break, ruining buds and diminishing blooms for the season. Next, gray mold spores appear just above ground level and spread to other plants in the garden. Botrytis blight can devastate an entire peony plant and even affect blooms after picking.

To control botrytis blight in peonies, cut back diseased foliage and destroy. Do not add the cuttings to your compost pile. The fungal spores that cause botrytis blight can overwinter in soil, mulch, and compost. Throw affected plant cuttings into the trash to prevent spreading the disease.

In severe cases, you can apply fungicide to peony plants in early spring as you see the disease develop. Spray young shoots with Bordeaux mix, or a copper sulfate fungicide. Be aware, though, that this type of fungicide can cause foliar damage to plants. For the best defense, plant a blight-resistant variety like the classic ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ peony.

2. Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is another common peony plant disease that’s easy to identify. Plants affected by powdery mildew exhibit a cloudy, whitish appearance on their leaves. It’s a fungal disease that thrives in humid weather and damp environments. Avoid overhead watering to prevent this problem.

Though not fatal, powdery mildew on peonies can spread and deform flowers. To treat this common peony disease, spray plants with horticultural oil or neem oil. You can also create your own DIY fungicide by mixing one tablespoon (15 mL) each of baking soda, horticultural oil (or canola oil), and liquid dish soap into a gallon (3.8 L) of water.

3. Phytophthora Blight

Phytophthora blight is often confused with botrytis blight. It exhibits many of the same symptoms, including dark leathery stems that wilt and die as well as buds that turn brown and never bloom.

One difference is that the dark spots are even darker than the spots caused by botrytis blight, approaching black in color. Also, the dark spots stretch further down the stems, often several inches below buds and even reaching out onto the adjacent leaves.

Phytophthora blight also occurs in wet weather. But it is more aggressive than botrytis blight and can affect the crown, causing it to develop a wet rot that can kill the entire plant.

Though more serious than botrytis blight, phytophthora blight is less common. If you notice signs of this peony disease, spray your plant with a Bordeaux mixture after shoots emerge in spring. During especially wet seasons, spray again during bud formation to prevent issues. Make sure to cut back and throw diseased foliage in the trash to prevent spread.

4. Peony Wilt

Peony wilt is caused by Verticillium, a fungus known to many tomato growers. It causes peony plants to suddenly wilt and die back during bloom time. As the plant wilts, the lower leaves also yellow and fall off. Verticillium wilt stunts growth and ultimately kills the plant. There is no treatment for this disease.

Dig up affected plants and dispose of them in the trash. If you plan to replace your peony, change the soil in the area to avoid transmitting the disease to the new plant.

5. Root Rot or Crown Rot

Root rot and crown rot are more serious, yet less common problems with peonies. In severe cases they can cause the loss of entire bushes, though prevention is easy so it shouldn’t have to come to this. Common signs of root rot or crown rot are leathery cankers that are dark brown or black in color. Plants may also be stunted or appear yellowish. Stems may break off where cankers form.

Common causes of root rot and crown rot are contact with manure, planting too deep under soil or mulch, or poor drainage. Though these are also environmental conditions that cause fungal disease so it is unclear whether poor growing conditions are the main cause or fungus is the primary issue.

Either way, there are few treatment options other than removal of infected plants. In fall, you can dig up plants and either destroy them and start fresh with new peonies in a better location or you can try moving plants. Wash off the roots and cut away any decayed areas, then divide if desired and replant. Make sure not to plant too deep. Cover the crown with only 2 inches (5 cm) of soil. Peony do not like to be moved, so plants will need several years to establish before they resume blooming.

6. Peony Leaf Blotch or Measles

Peony leaf blotch, also known as peony measles, is a common peony problem that develops in summer. The first signs of the disease are maroon colored spots that appear on leaves and stems. They grow larger and turn purple-brown as the disease progresses. Like many of the other diseases, this peony leaf blotch occurs during wet weather, especially if it’s warm.

Avoid overhead irrigation and make sure there is good air circulation around plants. At the end of the season clean up diseased debris and do not compost, as peony measles can overwinter. You can also use a fungicide to protect plants, though this disease is not fatal and does not usually require much intervention other than proper care.

Peony Disease Treatment

Though learning how to treat peony diseases may feel intimidating, most solutions are simple depending upon the diagnosis. Many forms of blight can be controlled from one season to the next through clean up and disposal of infected plant parts. Foliar fungicides may also be helpful in the control of these diseases. As always, make certain to read and carefully follow the manufacturer’s use and safety label.

Many peony viruses, as well as wilt and rot, require gardeners to remove the entire peony plant. Though disappointing, diseased plants often do not produce flowers and may appear unsightly in the landscape. In some cases, removing them will also prevent disease spread to other peonies.

Prevention of peony disease problems remains to be one of the best solutions in maintaining healthy peonies. Good air circulation, proper drainage, and garden sanitation are all essential to successfully growing peonies.

Peonies are the most romantic blooms in the garden and make heavenly cut flowers. Unfortunately, these old-fashioned favorites are prone to falling over while the flowers are still in their prime.

This tends to happen after the rain, as the flower heads hold the water and their weak stems cannot take the extra weight. In addition, the plants' rootballs need to be buried quite shallowly in the ground, meaning the flowers lack natural support for peonies.

Proper peony care will help to promote stronger stems, so ensure your plant is positioned in a sunny spot in rich, loamy, and well-draining soil. In spring, water deeply and fertilize peonies. However, certain types of peonies are simply more prone to falling over.

Unfortunately, it is the lovely blousy herbaceous peonies that are more susceptible. So if you don’t wish to add supports, then choose varieties bred to have stronger stems, such as Itoh peonies and hybrids.

How To Support Peonies

It is best to support peonies before they fall over, as they will never look quite as good again. You can do this by adding plant supports.

Ideally do this early in the spring, to allow the new growth to naturally fill in around the plant supports. However, take care not to pierce the crown with support legs or stakes, or you risk damaging the plant. Leave a gap around the plant edges of around three inches.

If your peonies have already begun to fall over, it is still best to intervene to get the best out of your flowers.

Choose from these support options and ensure your peony flowers make the impact they should.

1. Use A Peony Cage

Peony cages are designed to provide just the right amount of support for plants. The metal cages have three legs and two rings, with the top ring larger than the bottom, creating a fluted, funnel shape.

Available commonly in black, green, or rusted metal, the supports become almost invisible once the plant has properly grown in. However, ornamental designs can become attractive features in their own right.

As peony cages provide support in an upright circular form, they may not be the best option if you favor a softer, more natural look.

2. Make A Support With Canes And String

Bamboo canes tied with string make an easy and cost-effective way to support plants. It’s an ideal solution for peonies in a cut-flower garden, where you may have a large quantity of flowers that need staking.

While you can use dark green twine and rusted metal stakes to make the support more discreet, it is a less graceful solution than peony cages. However, it does allow for a bespoke solution that can be adjusted as needed and be made to any size.

To make a peony support with canes and string, simply insert canes into the soil around the perimeter of the plant and add two or three rows of string, tying a knot around each cane.

3. Stake Each Stem Individually

Supporting each individual flower stem with its own stake before the flowers bloom is a more time-consuming process. However, it responds to the natural growth habit of the peony, and may be preferable where flower heads are particularly large.

To support each stem, use slender canes or discreet metal stakes. Insert into the ground close to each stem, and use soft plant ties to secure each stem to its support. Try to cover the supports with the foliage as much as possible.

4. Add A Grow-Through Plant Grid

Grow-through plant support grids are available in circular or rectangular designs, and provide holes for individual flowers to grow through.

They are initially more noticeable than other support methods, but once the flowers grow through they will be less obvious.

The main downside to plant support grids is that they are difficult to remove or reposition without damaging the flower heads that have grown through.

5. Make A Willow Support

A willow support is the perfect option for a traditional country garden, as it adds to the aesthetic. While you can purchase willow supports, they can also be hand-made to the exact size you need.

To make a willow support, you will need bamboo canes, and young willow stems – these are usually soaked in water to make them more pliable.

Use hand pruners to trim lengths to size, and weave in and around the bamboo canes as desired. If necessary, use twine to tie the willow ends to the support.

Peonies are one of those old-fashioned blooms that don’t go out of style. There are many different types of peonies to suit every taste. The American Peony Society lists 6 individual types of peonies. There are Japanese, Single, Anemone, Semi Double, Bomb, and Full Double. These diverse peony varieties provide unmatched opportunities for the collector. In these categories are herbaceous peony types, as well as tree peonies.

The History of Peonies

Peonies have a role in mythological history, where Leto, mother of Apollo, gave the plant to Paeon, a physician, to cure a wound in Pluto acquired during the Trojan war. In Chinese history, the plant is the main flower in the Imperial Palace Gardens and earned the name "Sho Yo”, meaning ‘most beautiful’. In the 8th century, peonies arrived in Japan where they became a symbol of good fortune and bravery. By the 19th century, peonies were introduced to European and American gardens and became a well-loved perennial favorite.

Common Types of Peonies

The single variety of peony is a classic wild form with 5-15 saucer-shaped petals. A step further finds a semi-double with many more petals. The full double has no visible steam or carpels, just a thick, lush complement of petals. The Japanese form has thickened stamens with a feathery appearance. Anemone peonies have 5 or more outer petals with no discernable anthers. Bomb peonies are a secondary category of double varieties and have a pom-pom appearance.

Herbaceous Peonies

Perhaps one of the better-known peony kinds, herbaceous peonies are long-lived plants. Gentle fragrance heralds their bloom period, and the beautifully notched leaves persist until the first frost. Winter causes the plant to die back but they are extremely hardy and will begin to sprout anew in early spring. The huge flowers make excellent cut specimens and enrich the home in bouquets. Some of these peony types grow up to 3 feet (.91 m.) tall. Some of the more common herbaceous peonies are:

• Raspberry Sundae: Pinkish lavender blooms with blushed centers.
• Miss America: Blowsy white flowers.
• Sarah Bernhardt: Large pastel pink flowers.
• Shirley Temple: Named after the beloved child film star, the flower is an innocent white.
• Coral Charm: A semi-double coral pink bloom.

Tree Peonies

True fans of peonies desire these plants in their collections. Not only are the flowers large, but the woody stemmed plant can grow up to 5 feet ( 1.52 m.) tall. Unlike herbaceous plants which die back in winter, tree peony stems persist over the cold season. Paeonia suffruticosa is native to Tibet, China, and Bhutan. Breeding has led to flowers in hues of red, white, yellow, pink, and lavender. Tree peonies come in single, semi double, and double varieties.

• Black Pirate: Early season with single or semi double flowers in deep red.
• High Noon: Creamy yellow blooms with red centers.
• Vesuvian: A nicely compact plant boasting maroon double petaled blossoms.
• Dusky Maiden: Deeply red double flowers with foliage that assumes reddish autumn hues.
• Age of Gold: Creamy yellow flowers with red flashes.

Itoh Peonies

Itoh peonies are some of the largest flowers, with blooms spanning 8 inches ( 20.32 cm.) across. Originally they were only found in golden hues, but breeding programs have produced coral, red, and white. These varieties bloom a bit after herbaceous peony kinds, supporting the garden’s color parade into summer. The Itoh’s finely cut leaves grow closely to the ground with an appealing and tidy mounded form. These peonies are extremely cold hardy, withstanding temperatures in the United States Department of Agriculture zone 3b. These plants are hybrids of tree and herbaceous peonies.

Other Different Types of Peonies

Fernleaf peonies are dwarf forms and bloom very early with deep red flowers. The delicate foliage stands out among the flowers. They are more difficult to propagate and are therefore harder to find and more expensive than other varieties.

Frequently Asked Questions

Fall peony care is important to keep these beautiful perennials happy and help them last a long time. Peonies are a cherished addition to the home landscape. Long-lived and dependable, peony plants are prized for their gorgeous blooms and seasonal beauty. Despite their ease of growth, they need some special attention. This is especially true as temperatures begin to cool. Let's look at how to care for peonies in fall and the different needs of the most popular peony varieties.

Fall Care for Established Peonies

Here are the three most important tasks gardeners need to do for peonies in fall to keep established plants happy:

Cut Back Foliage

Peony care in fall starts with the arrival of cooler weather. By this time, the plant’s foliage is probably already starting to deteriorate. Yellowing or spotted leaves are especially unattractive and often denote the presence of disease. By the first freeze of the season it’s likely that the plant’s foliage will have died back completely. Once this occurs, all foliage can be trimmed back to the soil level. All plant matter should be removed from the garden and disposed of to prevent the likelihood of disease in the coming season.

Divide, If Needed

Fall care for peony plants may also involve division. This is a good choice when the plants become exceptionally large, or when you simply wish to multiply your favorite varieties. Removing all foliage from the plant is the first step of this process.

To divide a peony, first dig around the plant, carefully working in a large circle. Since an established root system can be quite extensive, make your best effort to clear as much of it from the soil as possible. Cut apart the roots, making certain to leave at least 3-5 eyes on each section. New roots can then be planted directly into the garden.

Fertilize

Peonies can be fertilized early in the season, before the production of flowers. The plants will also benefit from feeding in the fall. Sidedressing peonies with a balanced, slow-release granular feed is preferred, aiding in root development before the arrival of winter. For the best results, make certain to avoid fertilizers that are especially high in nitrogen. You can get a balanced, slow-release fertilizer from Amazon.

Fall Care for New Peonies

Newly planted peonies require different care than older, established plants in fall. Here's how to make sure your new peonies get off to a good start:

Plant Tubers or Divided Peonies

Fall is the ideal time to plant peony tubers and divided roots. Planting in autumn will allow for a longer period of establishment before new growth begins in spring. Peony roots should be planted into well-amended beds with each growing eye facing upward. Be careful not to plant too deeply, as doing so may negatively affect the peony’s ability to bloom.

Water

After planting, water each new peony root thoroughly. This will help the soil to settle, as well as aid in growth. New plantings of peonies only seldom require supplemental water throughout the winter. However, they can be watered if conditions are especially dry or warm.

Mulch

After planting, you may want to apply some light mulch atop new peony beds. While mulching will help to protect the roots from the cold, it will also prevent heaving. Heaving occurs when plants are lifted from soil due to seasonal fluctuations in temperature, like cycles of freezing and thawing. You can get organic, dye-free mulch on on Amazon. All mulch should be removed from beds in the spring, before new growth begins to emerge from the soil.

Tree Peony Fall Care

Tree peonies have many of the same needs as common garden peonies, but there are few differences. Here's what you need to do to prepare these woody perennials for winter:

Fertilize

Much like with an established herbaceous peony, fall care for tree peonies requires fertilization. Plants can be side-dressed with a balanced, slow-release feed just after their leaves have started to fall. Avoid feeds with high amounts of nitrogen, as the primary goal at this time is not to encourage leaf growth, but to aid in root development. You can get a balanced, slow-release fertilizer from Amazon.

Mulch

Tree peonies grow exceptionally well when mulched. In fact, the plants will benefit from the use of a generous layer, spanning towards their dripline. Mulching will also help to regulate temperature and maintain soil moisture levels throughout the season. Some growers have even found hilling the plant to be an effective management technique. You can get organic, dye-free mulch on on Amazon.

Itoh Peony Care in the Fall

Care for Itoh peonies in fall is very similar to that of herbaceous types. After the foliage has died back, each plant can be trimmed to soil level. Plant matter can then be removed from the garden. Though new plantings may require mulch in their first season, established Itoh peonies will require exposure to cold temperatures throughout winter in order to bloom their best.

Any gardener who finds one of their prized perennials covered in insects is sure to feel shocked. But do you need to worry if you find ants on peonies? Some may repeat the old myth that peonies need ants to bloom. But we'll uncover why this is urban legend, dig into the real reason why there are ants on your peonies, and share what you can do about them.

Do Peonies Need Ants to Bloom?

There are several misconceptions and myths surrounding ants and peony buds. However, they do have a hint of truth in them, which is likely why they persist.

One common belief is that ants are required for peony flowers to fully develop. There is no truth to this claim. Ants have no impact on bloom production. Another common misconception is that peonies need ants to bloom. Some even say that ants help pry open peony buds, allowing the flowers to unfurl. So is there any truth to this myth? Do peonies need ants to bloom? No, they don't.

Though ants do not play a role in peonies' ability to bloom, they are beneficial to the plants. Experts suggest that ants aid in pest prevention, which protect peonies as they begin to bloom.

Why Do Peonies Attract Ants?

For first-time growers, finding ants on peony buds may seem a bizarre or unsettling sight. However, this is a wonderful example of mutualism in the garden and no cause for concern. Ants and peonies have a relationship that benefits both parties.

Peonies produce a nectar that ants can't resist. The nectar gives buds a shiny appearance and makes them sticky to the touch. Nectaries (the structures that produce nectar in peony plants) are located just outside each bloom. These outer sepals protect the petals before opening.

The sweet nectar draws ants from the garden to peony buds to feast. Once they are there, ants provide natural pest control for peonies. These beneficial insects not only eat nectar, but also troublemakers like thrips and aphids, which can damage peony plants as they begin to bloom in spring.

Ants also produce pheromone trails that lead other ants to the food source, allowing for large numbers to find the peony bud. This is why you often see peonies teeming with ants in spring as buds begin to open. Don't worry, though, these insects do not harm the plants in any way.

How to Get Ants Off Peonies

Since they don't hurt peonies, it's not necessary to remove ants from plants. If you do, however, want to to get rid of ants on peonies for aesthetic purposes there are several simple and safe ways to do so.

Before breaking out the pesticides, try water. The best way to get rid of ants is a blast from the hose. This quickly and safely gets rid of unwanted ants. The other option is to wait. Once flowers open, most ants will choose to feed elsewhere.

If you intend to use peonies in arrangements and want to get rid of ants before bringing them indoors, the solution is simple. Quickly dip each bloom into cool, clean water after harvest and then blooms are ready for bouquets.

Peonies have long been revered as a classic addition to the home landscape. Herbaceous, Itoh, and intersectional types have been known to thrive for decades with only minimal attention from gardeners. Despite their ease of growth, only a very small number of peony species are actually native to the United States. One such species, the California native peony, is able to flourish within only a relatively small range. Learning more about this unique plant can help gardeners to better appreciate and value the diversity among this outstanding genus of plants.

What is Paeonia Californica?

Also known as Paeonia brownii, California peony plants have a rich history. Native Americans believed the plant and its roots to have great medicinal value, though many of its purported uses have since fallen out of favor. Despite a close resemblance to their more ornate garden relatives, native peonies differ distinctly in many ways. Most notable of these is the plant’s specific growing needs and unique flower form.

Peonies in the wild first begin to emerge from the soil between late winter and very early spring. At this time, the plants grow to form large bushes that consist of many lobed, palm-shaped leaves. As the season progresses, the peonies will begin to produce buds. Native peony flowers are quite small and are often considered to have little to no ornamental value. Those growing California peonies can expect plants to produce several small reddish burgundy blooms, with each nodding downwards towards the soil.

Once the flowers have faded, seeds are produced within large, attractive pods. As California peonies are known to grow true-to-type, the planting of mature seed is a viable means of propagation. Like other peonies, germination will require patience, often taking up to two years before the emergence of the plant’s first true leaves. Peony plants grown from seed will require approximately five years before they are able to produce their first blooms.

Where Do Peonies Grow Wild?

This native peony species is most frequently found growing throughout much of southern and central California. As it favors growth in meadows, on hillsides, and near dense chaparrals, it is among the most versatile plants for growth in otherwise harsh landscapes. In especially arid regions, peony plants will die back after flowering and slip into dormancy until the arrival of the next wet season. This dry dormancy period is essential for the plant’s survival. Native peonies are especially prone to rot, which can be caused by overwatering, poor drainage, or otherwise waterlogged soils.

Though California peony plants are not a common addition to the home landscape, they are used as restoration plants and in the creation of natural waterwise habitat. These peonies have also been found to be useful in areas which are frequently affected by wildfires. Since the plant returns each season from the underground eyes on its roots, California peonies are considered to be a dependable perennial, even after the plants have experienced severe damage. Native peony plants are generally considered to be deer-resistant and seldom have problems with insects or disease.

Long-lived peonies are an ever-popular addition to home landscapes. Thriving with minimal care, peony plants are most commonly prized for their large, vibrant blooms. However, some species of peonies are actually known for their ability to thrive in shady planting sites. One such example, the Japanese woodland peony, is ideal for small shaded backyard spaces. 

What is Asian Woodland Peony?

There are several types of shade tolerant peony. Woodland peonies (Paeonia obovata and Paeonia japonica) are among the most frequently available species to home gardeners. Both herbaceous species grow to reach approximately 2 feet (60 cm) in height at maturity. Rather than producing showy blooms, woodland peony plants offer a multitude of smaller, highly-fragrant single flowers. Their flower color range is also comparatively limited, opening in varying shades of white to blushed pink. 

Growing Japanese Woodland Peony

Though it is possible to grow shade tolerant peonies from seed, the process may take several seasons. In fact, peony seeds need a long period of cold stratification before they begin to germinate. It’s for this reason that most growers suggest starting with established plants or growing from root sections with at least 3-5 eyes. Consider the planting site you select, as it is imperative that woodland peony beds receive part to full shade. 

Peonies respond well to nutrient rich soils. Good drainage is also ideal, as excessively wet soils may cause issues related to rot and various fungal diseases. Most sources suggest fall to be the best planting time for peonies. However, woodland species can also be planted as soon as the soil can be worked in very early spring. At planting time, make certain not to bury new roots too deeply. Each peony eye should be buried no deeper than about 2 inches (5 cm.) below the soil line. Those planted deeper may fail to bloom or could even have difficulty with growth in the spring. 

Care for woodland peony varieties is similar to that of other species. After flowering has ceased, spent blooms can be deadheaded and carefully removed from the plant. Healthy foliage should remain in the garden until it’s been allowed to die back naturally with the arrival of the first frost in autumn. At that time, excess foliage can be cut and removed from the garden in order to reduce the risk of any over-wintering foliar disease. 

Peonies are a classic garden perennial. With their immense blooms and ease of growth, peony bushes remain an ever popular choice of landscapers, ornamental gardeners, and cut flower growers. Becoming more familiar with various species of peony plant and specifics for their growth, like peony sun requirements, can help gardeners make informed planting decisions and will help to ensure that the needs of each plant are met.

Do Peonies Like Sun or Shade?

In attempting to answer this question, growers will first need to carefully consider each peony species. Some of the most common types of peonies available at garden centers are herbaceous peonies, intersectional peonies, and tree peonies. Though each of these plants is quite similar to the other, there will be subtle variations in their light needs. 

For several varieties of peonies, full sun is an absolute necessity. Without at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day, some types may even fail to bloom. The most common peonies for full sun are herbaceous. These are types which grow, bloom, and die back to the ground naturally with the arrival of fall frosts. Some of the most popular varieties for full sun flowerbeds include Sarah Bernhardt, Red Charm, Coral Charm, and Bowl of Beauty.

Best Peonies for Shade

For many other types of peonies, shade or part shade may be required for them to truly thrive. Fortunately, finding the best peony for shade is not too difficult. In fact, there are several options available. Some of the most popular species include intersectional peonies and tree peonies. Also known as Itoh peonies, intersectional peonies are the result of a cross between herbaceous and tree species. This makes for a highly adaptable plant that's able to grow well in both full sun and part sun sites. In fact, most intersectional peonies benefit from shade during the hottest parts of the day. 

Tree peonies are known for their woody growth habit and immense blooms. For the tree peony, shade is essential. Most experts suggest that this species be planted in part to full dappled sunlight for best results. Shade gardeners have also found success with woodland species of peony. Though these flowers are not as showy as their hybrid relatives, many growers celebrate their unique ability to naturalize.

Peonies are gorgeous perennials that can bloom for decades. They can last for nearly 100 years, if properly cared for. Growing peony plants is easy and pays huge dividends. Their beautiful, fragrant blooms can’t be beat and their glossy green foliage adds interest even after the spring display is done. Plus, deer don’t bother them! Read on to learn how to grow peonies that will last for generations.

Types Of Peony

Let’s talk about the different types of peonies: The most common type is the herbaceous garden peony. These are the pretty spring bloomers you see in most people’s gardens. But there are also fernleaf peonies, woodland peonies, tree peonies, and Itoh peonies which are a cross between tree and garden peonies. In this article, we’re going to focus on the common garden peony.

There are thousands of cultivars of garden peonies that grow in zones 3 through 9. They are split into five main flower types: single bloom, double bloom, semi-double bloom, anemone, and Japanese. They come in a variety of colors from blush to bright pink, white, peach, and red.

How To Plant A Peony

You can buy peonies as potted plants or tubers. Potted peonies do best when planted in fall, but you can plant them anytime during the growing season. However, you should only plant tubers in fall.

Choose a sunny spot with enough room for your peony to grow 3 to 4 feet (0.9-1.2 m.) wide and tall. Think hard about where you want to plant your peony, because once they’re in the ground they don’t like to be moved.

Add plenty of compost to the planting hole and don’t plant peonies too deep. Cover the crown of your plant or tuber with 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) of soil. Planting too deep is one of the most common reasons why peonies won’t bloom.

How To Take Care Of Peonies

Fertilize peony plants for the first couple years in early spring or just after flowering. Older, established peonies don’t need much care. Just add a layer of compost and mulch around plants in spring, making sure not to pile the mulch around the stems. If blooms diminish, feed plants with a low nitrogen fertilizer or work bone meal into the soil around your plants once every 3 to 5 years.

To grow bigger blooms, try disbudding your peonies. Simply pinch off the smaller side buds, leaving the main terminal flower bud. Disbudding will result in less blooms, but each flower will be bigger and better formed.

Flowers may be too heavy for peony stems to support, especially on double bloom varieties. You can stake peonies in spring before foliage leafs out. There are even metal stands made specifically for peonies. If you’re in a pinch, though, a tomato cage will do.

Peonies look just as good in a vase as they do in the garden. They make excellent cut flowers that last several days. Cut blooms just before they open. Gently squeeze buds to see if they are ready. They should feel like a marshmallow, with a little bit of give. Don’t take more than one-third of the flowers from a peony. This will keep your plant healthy and blooming well next year.

Cut back peonies in the fall to about 3 inches (7.5 cm.) high. Throw away any diseased foliage – don’t put it in your compost pile. Peonies are generally pest free, but they do occasionally suffer from powdery mildew later in the summer. They may also have trouble with botrytis blight which is caused by cool, wet weather. Water early in the day and maintain good airflow around plants to prevent problems.

Ever wonder why there are ants on your peonies? They love the sweet nectar the peony buds produce in spring. Many people believe the ants help the peonies bloom, but that’s actually a myth. Peonies can bloom all on their own!

Once peonies are established, they are very easy to care for. With just a little bit of work, your peonies will last for generations to come. What an amazing legacy to leave in your garden!

Peonies have incredible wow-power and have long been my favorite garden flower. Big, showy, and spectacular, peonies are a perfect example of flowers that look like they should be difficult to grow – but aren’t! Peony care is actually very simple.

Let me put it this way: you won’t break your budget buying peony fertilizer.

Do Peonies Require Fertilizer?

Some flowering plants need frequent fertilizer to produce flowers. Peonies do not. I always test soil to determine its nutrient content before adding peony fertilizer. Since I make my own compost in the backyard and blend it into my garden beds regularly, I usually do not need fertilizer for peonies.

If you test your soil and it needs nutrients, by all means add them. But if not, don’t. Keep in mind that most fertilizers for peonies and other flowers include a lot of phosphorus (P) that, when not used, builds up in the soil. Sometimes soil contains adequate phosphorus and potassium and you only need to add nitrogen.

When to Fertilize Peonies

If it turns out that your soil is deficient in important nutrients, you face the next question: when to fertilize, spring or fall? The answer is: both.

Generally, if you need peony fertilizer, 3 or 4 ounces of a balanced (1-1-1 ratio) fertilizer per plant will suffice. Apply half of this in autumn, just after you cut back dormant plants to assist the roots to establish. Apply the other half in spring, once new growth appears. This feeds the plants’ vegetative growth.

Well-established peonies don’t need frequent fertilizer application. Start off new plants with rich, composted soil and fertilize in spring and fall for the first few years. At that point, your peonies should only need fertilizer every three years or so, if at all. Adding compost to the soil will help.

Best Fertilizer for Peonies

Don’t waste time looking for a peony-specific fertilizer. Any balanced (1-1-1 ratio) fertilizer is fine.

If your peonies don’t produce buds and flowers, or don’t have very many, the problem could be the fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers with too much nitrogen. This encourages leafy growth and fewer buds.

If you still have trouble with your plants, consider doing a soil test. You can test a sample at your local extension office. They will also offer recommendations on how to amend the soil for better growth and more blooms.

How to Fertilize Peonies

Sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil around each plant, then work it into the soil. Keep peony fertilizer a hand’s length away from the peony crown since crows are extremely vulnerable to fertilizer burn. Instead, apply a band of fertilizer at 8 to 18 inches (20-45 cm) from the plant center.

Once you apply fertilizer, immediately water the area. This dissolves the produce and blends it into the soil. fertilizer and move the nutrients into the soil.

Peonies are a classic landscape plant. Frequently found near old farmhouses, established peony bushes can return for decades. With colors ranging from white to deep pink red, it is easy to see why peony plants remain a popular choice. Though the plants are generally easy to grow, there will be considerations when deciding to plant peony bushes.

Most important among these is the need for proper climate, include chilling. Choosing the correct variety and growing location will be key in establishing a thriving peony planting.

Peony Chill Hours

Peony plants grow best in regions with periods of cold weather during the winter months. Before planting peonies, examine the specifics of your growing zone and determine whether or not it is suitable. Most peonies will grow well in USDA growing zones 3 through 8 where they will receive the required amount of “chill hours.”

Simply, chill hours refers to the amount of time that the plants are exposed to cooler temperatures throughout the winter, most often between 32 degrees F. (0 C.) and 40 degrees F. (4 C.). These hours accumulate until spring arrives and may differ greatly from one region to another. Without proper chilling, peonies will fail to set blooms.

How Much Cold Do Peonies Need?

With this information in mind, you may be wondering, “How much cold do peonies need?” Peony chill hours can vary from one variety to the next. However, most chill requirements for peonies are around 500 to 1,000 hours.

The number of chill hours in your region can easily be found through the use of online weather calculators. While many northern growers will have no trouble chilling peonies, those living in warmer regions may need to consider choosing varieties that only require low chill hours.

Chilling Peonies

While chilling peonies is best accomplished in the ground, these plants can also be grown in containers. When grown this way, chilling requirements for peonies will still need to be met but can be done by storing the potted plants in a minimally heated space which does not freeze.

Chilling is imperative in ensuring the growth of healthy, vibrant plants the following growing season.

Are peonies cold hardy? Is protection needed for peonies in winter? Don’t worry too much about your prized peonies, as these beautiful plants are extremely cold tolerant and can withstand subzero temperatures and winters as far north as USDA plant hardiness zone 3.

In fact, a lot of winter peony protection is ill-advised because these tough plants actually need about six weeks of temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.) in order to produce blooms the following year. Read on for more information about peony cold tolerance.

Caring for Peonies in Winter

Peonies love cold weather, and they don’t need much protection. However, there are a few things you can do to ensure your plant remains healthy throughout the winter. 

• Cut peonies nearly to the ground after the leaves turn yellow in fall. Be careful not to remove any of the reddish or pink buds also known as “eyes,” as the eyes, found near ground level, are the beginnings of next year’s stems (don’t worry, the eyes won’t freeze). 
• Don’t worry too much if you forget to cut your peony down in fall. The plant will die back and regrow, and you can tidy it up in spring. Be sure to rake up debris around the plant. Don’t compost the trimmings, as they may invite fungal disease. 
• Mulching peonies in winter really isn’t necessary, although an inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) of straw or shredded bark is a good idea for the plant’s first winter or if you live in a far northern climate. Don’t forget to remove the remaining mulch in spring.

Tree Peony Cold Tolerance

Tree peonies aren’t quite as tough as shrubs. If you live in a cold climate, wrapping the plant with burlap in late fall will protect the stems. Don’t cut tree peonies to the ground. Although, if this happens, there should be no long-term damage and the plant will soon rebound.

Peonies are long-lived perennial flowering plants which decorate many landscapes. Over time, as surrounding shrubs and trees grow larger, peonies may fail to bloom as they once did. The culprit is often lack of sunlight due to overcrowding and the expanding canopies of nearby trees. Moving established peonies is one solution.

As a gardener, you may be wondering “Can I transplant peonies?” The answer is yes. Successfully moving established peonies is achievable. Knowing how and when to transplant peony is the key.

How Do You Transplant a Peony?

Choose the correct time of the year. Moving established peony plants should be done in the fall, at least six weeks before the ground freezes. This gives the plant time to recover before going dormant for the winter. In many North American locations, September or October will be the ideal month for transplanting a peony. 

• Cut down the stems. If the peony hasn't died back for the winter, trim the peony stems close to ground level. This will make it easier to locate exactly how far the root system extends. Since peonies are susceptible to fungal diseases, it's advisable to properly dispose of the clippings.
• Dig up the peony. Carefully dig in a circle around the plant. Staying 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) away from the edge of the stems should be sufficient to avoid damaging the root system. Continue digging until the root ball can be lifted out. Prying the roots from the ground can cause breakage which may compromise the peony's ability to recover.
• Divide the peony. Use your shovel or a heavy-duty knife to cut the root system into pieces. (Rinsing excess soil off the root ball will make it easier to see what you're doing.) Each piece should contain three to five eyes. These eyes are the growth shoots for next year.
• Choose the right location for transplanting. Peonies prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Space peonies 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.) apart. Allow sufficient spacing between peonies and shrubs or other perennials which may increase in size over time.
• Replant the root divisions. Peony root divisions should be transplanted as soon as possible. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root ball. Set the eyes no deeper than 2 inches (5 cm.) below the soil level. Planting peony too deep results in poor bloom production. Firmly pack the soil around the root ball and water.
• Mulch the transplanted peony. Apply a thick layer of mulch to protect the newly transplanted flowers over the winter. Remove the mulch prior to the growing season in the spring.

Don't worry if the flowers seem a bit sparse the first spring after moving established peonies. When transplanting a peony, it can take three to four years for it to become reestablished and bloom abundantly.

For me, summer is truly here in Michigan when the peonies bloom. The showy, huge flowers of this perennial open up during late May and mid-June, right in time for the summer solstice. Inspired by a wonderous peony garden many years ago, I started growing my own.

Michigan Peony Garden

My love of peony flowers began when I first saw the Nichols Arboretum Peony Garden at the University of Michigan many years ago. A college student at the time, I loved wandering in "the arb," as we called it. The best time was early summer when campus got quiet and the weather warm.

Begun in the 1920s, the Peony Garden has been wowing visitors for nearly 100 years. Dr. W.E. Upjohn, a university alum, helped start the garden with plants from his collection of over 600 peony cultivars. The garden is now the largest public collection of historic peonies.

Growing Peonies in the Garden

For years I enjoyed seeing the blooming array of every shade of white to pink in the Peony Garden. It became a sign of summer for me, and I eventually was able to plant some in my home garden.

Although it's nothing like the historic collection, my few peonies in the garden are thriving. Here are some peony growing tips I've learned over the years for cultivating these gorgeous perennials:

• The best time to put in a new peony is fall. This is also the best time to move or divide a mature peony plant. Make sure that your new or transplanted peony has at least six weeks of time to adjust before the ground begins to freeze.
• Peonies do best in full sun but will tolerate some shade.
• Stakes are often necessary to hold up the big, beautiful peony flowers. Because they can be so top heavy, it's also best to plant somewhere out of the wind.
• Keep peonies at a distance from trees and other shrubs, as they don't do well when competing for nutrients.
• Soil for peonies should be rich and fertile with a neutral pH. Fertilizer isn't generally necessary. Peonies prefer soil enriched with compost.
• Deadhead the blooms once they fade. Cut the stems back in the fall.
• Yes, peonies attract ants, but they are not pests. Ants feed on the nectar and, in exchange, they'll eat the insects that are pests.

Fernleaf peony plants (Paeonia tenuifolia) are vigorous, reliable plants with unique, fine-textured, fern-like foliage. Showy deep red or burgundy flowers appear a little earlier than most other peonies, generally in late spring and early summer.

Although fernleaf peony plants tend to cost a bit more, they’re worth the extra expense because they grow slowly and live so long.

How to Grow Fernleaf Peonies

Growing fernleaf peonies is easy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3-8. Peonies need cold winters and won’t bloom well without a period of chill.

Fernleaf peony plants prefer at least six hours of sun per day. 

The soil should be fertile and well drained. If your soil is sandy or clay, mix in a generous amount of compost before planting. You can also add a handful of bone meal.

If you’re planting more than one peony plant, allow 3 to 4 feet (1 m.) between each plant. Overcrowding can promote disease.

Fernleaf Peony Care

Water fernleaf peony plants every week, or more often when weather is hot and dry, or if you’re growing fernleaf peonies in container.

Dig a handful of low nitrogen fertilizer into the soil around the plant when new growth is about 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) tall in spring. Look for a product with an N-P-K ratio such as 5-10-10. Water well to prevent the fertilizer from burning the roots. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, which can cause weak stems and sparse blooming.

Add a layer of mulch, about 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.), in spring to conserve soil moisture, then be sure to remove the mulch in fall. Add fresh mulch consisting of evergreen boughs or loose straw before winter.

You may need to stake fernleaf peony plants, as the big blooms may cause the stems to lean towards the ground.

Remove wilted flowers as they fade. Cut the stems down to the first strong leaf so the bare stems don’t stick up above the plant. Cut fernleaf peony plants nearly to the ground after the foliage dies down in fall.

Don’t dig and divide fernleaf peonies. The plants don’t appreciate being disturbed, and they will grow in the same place for many years.

Fernleaf peonies are rarely bothered by insets. Never spray ants crawling over the peonies. They are actually beneficial for the plant.

Fernleaf peony plants are disease resistant, but they can be afflicted with phytophthora blight or botrytis blight, especially in wet conditions or poorly drained soil. To prevent infection, cut plants to the ground in early fall. Spray the shrubs with fungicide as soon as tips emerge in spring, then repeat every two weeks until midsummer.

Peonies are a long time favorite, cherished for their large, fragrant blooms which can reward their growers with decades of beauty. For many first-time growers, this popular plant can present some challenges, including common peony diseases such as botrytis blight. Peony botrytis blight is especially frustrating, as it can lead to the loss of flower blooms. Let's take a look at what botrytis blight is, as well as how to prevent and treat this issue in peonies.

What is Botrytis Blight on Peony?

Also known as gray mold, botrytis blight is caused by a fungus which, while unsightly and concerning, is not deadly. In peony plants, either Botrytis cinerea or Botrytis paeoniae fungus is the culprit. Peony botrytis blight is most common when the spring weather is especially cool and rainy. These conditions make it ideal for dormant soil fungus to develop.

Botrytis on peony plants can impact the stems, leaves, and flower buds. Among the first signs and symptoms found is the presence of gray mold (hence its common name). Peony botrytis blight is commonly responsible for the loss of flower blooms. When infected, peony buds will form but turn brown and die before they are able to open.

It is for this reason that botrytis on peony plants can be especially disappointing for cut-flower gardeners.

Peony Botrytis Control

When it comes to peony botrytis treatment, routine observation will be key. It will be imperative that parts of plants which demonstrate symptoms of blight are removed and destroyed.

Maintaining best irrigation practices will also help in peony botrytis control. Peony plants should never be watered from above, as this can cause fungal spores to splash onto the plants and spread.

Each growing season peony plants should be properly cut back. After doing so, all debris should be removed from the garden. This will help diminish the overwintering potential of the fungus. Though it is uncommon for plants to become infected with blight every season, the fungus can build up in the soil.

If recurring instances of this disease are an issue, growers may need to apply a plant fungicide. This is usually done several times throughout the spring as the plants grow. Gardeners who choose to implement this method should always follow manufacturer’s labels carefully for safe application.

As a pest, the nematode is hard to see. This group of microscopic organisms largely live in the soil and feed on plant roots. Foliar nematodes, however, live on and in leaves, feeding and causing discoloration. Peonies are just one of many herbaceous perennials that can fall victim to this pest.

Peony Foliar Nematode Symptoms

If you have peonies with leaf discoloration, you could have a peony leaf nematode eating them. Foliar nematodes, those that feed on leaves rather than roots, are species of Aphelenchoides. They are tiny and you won’t identify them without a microscope, but there are clear signs of their infestation on peonies:

• Discolored sections of leaves that are bound by the veins, forming wedge shapes
• Discoloration that begins yellow and turns reddish purple or brown
• Damage and discoloration on older leaves first, spreading to younger leaves
• Leaf discoloration appears in late summer and fall

The discoloration caused by foliar nematodes creates different patterns based on the veins in a plant’s leaves. Those with parallel veins, like hostas, will have stripes of discoloration. Foliar nematodes on peonies tend to make a patchwork pattern of wedge-shaped areas of color.

Managing Foliar Nematodes on Peonies

Although it doesn’t look very attractive, the discoloration caused by these nematodes is not usually that damaging to the peony plant. The plants should survive, especially the later in the season the symptoms appear, and there isn’t anything you have to do.

However, you may want to take steps to prevent this infestation in your peonies or try to get rid of it once you see the signs. Foliar nematodes move from one leaf and plant to another by water. They can also spread when you take cuttings and divisions and move them around the garden.

To prevent the spread of foliar nematodes on peonies, avoid splashing water and limit moving plants. If you see the symptoms on one plant, you can pull it up and destroy it. When you first plant peonies, be sure you select healthy, disease-free certified plants.

For residential growers, there are no nematicides available. You have to be specially certified and a commercial grower to use these chemicals, so your options for control are limited to organic means, such as removing and destroying plants and debris – which is better anyway.

Peonies are among the most anticipated summer flowers, with buds opening into glorious pink, white, or crimson flowers. If you see peonies (Paeonia spp.) with bud blast, you surely will be disappointed. When your peony flowers wither in the bud, they may be suffering from bud blast of peonies. Read on for information about what causes this and how to prevent it.

Bud Blast of Peonies

Peonies with bud blast start off with normal flower development. However, it doesn’t last very long, and the buds don’t develop into flowers. When the buds are still small, they turn brown or black and wither.

Experts used to say that this condition, termed bud blast of peonies, was caused by botrytis blight, a fungal disease. Now it is recognized that these problems with peonies are often caused by improper cultural care.

What Causes Peony Bud Blast?

When peony buds don’t develop, you can still assign the problem the name of bud blast. This term describes the symptoms rather than a disease or pathogen. Any time peonies do not get the growing conditions they require, it can result in bud blast.

One factor that causes bud blast of peonies is inadequate irrigation during dry periods. Other primary causes are not enough sunlight or too little nutrition.

Peonies with bud blast can also be caused by too little potassium in the soil, sudden drops in temperature while the buds are developing, overcrowding, and overly deep planting. Root nematodes are another potential cause, as is botrytis blight.

How to Prevent Problems with Peonies

Given that these problems are most often the result of environmental stresses, the gardener can take steps to prevent them. The best way to avoid bud blast is to provide your plants with good growing conditions.

Take care when you select a site for your peonies, making sure to provide the plants with sufficient sun and organically rich, well-draining soil. Peonies do best with regular irrigation and fertilizer. Mulch well in the winter to protect the plants from sudden freezes.

You’ll also do well to keep an eye on the plants, and divide them when they start getting too crowded. Good air circulation as well as sun exposure prevents fungal issues.

Just because you live in a warm climate doesn’t mean you can grow anything you want. Some plants simply don’t tolerate overly hot conditions, just as most do not appreciate areas that are too cold. But what about peonies for warm climates? Is this possible?

Can You Grow Peony in Hot Weather?

Designated appropriate to grow in USDA hardiness zones 3-7, many gardeners in more southern areas wish to grow the exquisite blooms of the peony plant. Since that’s a large part of the country, growers and hybridizers have experimented to help fulfill this desire for gardeners in the Deep South and California.

Both areas have experienced success with growing heat tolerant peonies. But with more than 3,000 peony cultivars available, some direction in what variety to grow is helpful.

Let’s see what’s available now in the warm weather peony category and even how to work with the old-fashioned peony in hot weather areas. These beautiful blooms need not be limited to those with long winters; however, the size and length of bloom may be diminished in warmer areas.

Choosing Peonies for Warm Climates

Itoh peonies return with lots of blooms in Southern California. These have as many as 50 dinner-plate size blooms per plant during the third and later years after planting. Hybrids with good reports in California include Misaka, with peach-colored flowers; Takata, with dark pink blooms; and Keiko, with pale rosy-pink flowers.

Japanese cultivars are preferable when growing peonies for warm climates. Single blooms that flower early, before it gets too hot, include Doreen, Gay Paree, and Bowl of Beauty. Semi-double blooms in this category include Westerner, Coral Supreme, Coral Charm, and Coral Sunset.

Personal research helps you locate peonies for your warm climate and other extremes. Begin by looking for rain tolerant and heat tolerant peonies. Include your city and state to learn what’s been grown successfully there. With so many cultivars available, it is difficult to cover them all.

How to Grow Peonies in Warm Climates

Take advantage of the cold that’s available to you and:

• Plant shallowly, only an inch deep (2.5 cm.) in zones 8 and above.
• Plant in loose, well-draining soil.
• Don’t mulch, as it may prevent the cold from properly chilling the plant.
• Plant in the eastern-facing landscape and provide afternoon shade.
• Condition the soil before planting a peony in hot weather.
• Select early blooming varieties.

These steps help you get blooms when growing the warm weather peony and maximize whatever cold is available to you. Peonies need about three weeks of nighttime cold at 32 degrees F. (0 C.) or lower to bloom. Amend and enrich the soil before planting and get the location right. The mature, warm weather peony does not tolerate disturbance of the root system.

Ignore the ants that will visit when blooms begin developing – they are just after the flower’s sweet nectar. They will leave soon. Take this opportunity to check for other pests though.

Are peonies cold hardy? Is protection needed for peonies in winter? Don’t worry too much about your prized peonies, as these beautiful plants are extremely cold tolerant and can withstand subzero temperatures and winters as far north as USDA plant hardiness zone 3.

In fact, a lot of winter peony protection is ill-advised because these tough plants actually need about six weeks of temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.) in order to produce blooms the following year. Read on for more information about peony cold tolerance.

Caring for Peonies in Winter

Peonies love cold weather and they don’t need much protection. However, there are a few things you can do to ensure your plant remains healthy throughout the winter.

Cut peonies nearly to the ground after the leaves turn yellow in fall. Be careful; however, not to remove any of the reddish or pink buds also known as “eyes,” as the eyes, found near ground level, are the beginnings of next year’s stems. (Don’t worry, the eyes won’t freeze).

Don’t worry too much if you forget to cut your peony down in fall. The plant will die back and regrow, and you can tidy it up in spring. Be sure to rake up debris around the plant. Don’t compost the trimmings, as they may invite fungal disease.

Mulching peonies in winter really isn’t necessary, although an inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) of straw or shredded bark is a good idea for the plant’s first winter, or if you live in a far northern climate. Don’t forget to remove the remaining mulch in spring. 

Tree Peony Cold Tolerance

Tree peonies aren’t quite as tough as shrubs. If you live in a cold climate, wrapping the plant with burlap in late fall will protect the stems.

Don’t cut tree peonies to the ground. However, if this happens, there should be no long-term damage and the plant will soon rebound.

Peonies are drooping darlings with huge flower heads and arching stems. They often need help standing upright, somewhat like Happy Hour retirees. This nodding behavior may be due to the big blooms, but it could also indicate the plant needs water. Do you know how much to water peonies? If not, continue reading for tips on optimum peony irrigation.

How Much to Water Peonies

The large, brightly toned flowers of peonies are unmistakable. Peonies grow in a variety of soils, but the one thing that can cause root rot is boggy, ill draining soil. This doesn't mean peonies don't need water. On the contrary, these perennial beauties need to be kept moist the first year, and mature plants need supplemental water frequently. Peony water needs depend upon your region but some commonsense info on how to tell when it’s time will keep your plants happy. The peony is native to Europe, Asia and western North America. They grow from thick storage roots that can be divided to create new plants. These roots do not dive deeply into soil. Instead, they are thick branching without many surface roots. Their very structure means they cannot gather moisture from deep in soil nor can they easily harvest dew and lighter moisture at the surface. Peonies are drought tolerant for short periods after establishment but best growth and healthier roots stem from consistent watering. On average, plants need 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week.

How to Tell Your Peony Needs Water

The simplest way to test peony water needs is to touch the soil. Touching the top is probably sufficient in a hot summer but in spring and fall, you should actually insert a finger. If soil is dry to the second knuckle, the plant needs water. Visual cues will be wilting, dropping buds and discolored, dried foliage. There are soil moisture testers you can purchase if you have trouble telling when it's time for watering peonies. A good rule of thumb is to deeply water every 10 to 14 days for mature plants. Young plants that are just starting should get nearly twice as much water.

How to Water Peonies

Avoid watering peonies overhead. The moisture on the leaves can encourage the formation of powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. If you must water on top of the foliage, do so when the plant has time to dry before night. A drip line makes an excellent source of peony irrigation and can even be set to a timer to deliver just enough moisture at exact intervals. Consider using an organic mulch around peonies. This will not only conserve moisture but also prevent many weeds and gradually compost into the soil, releasing needed nutrients. Peonies are unforgettable flowers that have old time elegance combined with modern day pizzazz. Provide them the proper amount of water, food, and sun and they will reward you for years with effortless beauty.

For many gardeners, growing their own perennial plants from seed is an exciting undertaking and harvesting and planting peony seeds is no exception. Growing peonies from seed is not only a fun way to expand your garden for free, but it can result in new and never-before-seen hybrids.

Peonies are grown for their exquisite, short-lived spring blooms. After their flowers fade, peonies form clusters of wedge-shaped seed pods. As they ripen, the seed pods turn dark brown and leathery and crack open to reveal shiny, dark purple to black seeds. Seed pods can add interest to the garden as well as allow you to harvest the seeds inside to propagate your peonies.

Though learning how to propagate peonies from seed is relatively simple, you first need a firm understanding of how and when to harvest peony seeds, how to prepare seeds for planting, and how to plant seeds so they grow into strong, long-lasting peony plants.

Pros & Cons of Propagating Peonies From Seed

When propagated from seed, peony plants do not grow into true-to-type. Asexual propagation, such as via cuttings or dividing peony plants, are the only way to produce true clones of your current plants. However, you can produce new and unique bloom variations by propagating peonies seed.

Starting peonies from seed also benefits budget-savvy gardeners because it allows you to fill the landscape with lots of new plants without spending a dime. Though the advantages of harvesting and planting peony seeds are numerous, this process does have one major drawback.

The main problem is that it is time consuming. Harvesting peony seeds and germinating them takes several months and then years of patience before new plants finally bloom. Common garden peonies are slow to mature, taking five to six years to produce blooms when propagated from seed. Tree peonies and Itoh peonies mature quicker, though it is still a multi-year process.

When to Harvest Peony Seeds

Determining when to harvest peony seeds is the first step in the seed propagation process. Peony seeds start to form when pollen from one flower is introduced to another bloom in spring. As pollinated flowers fade in summer, you will see pods at the center of the blooms begin to swell and produce seeds.

These pods, or carpels, will continue to mature until it’s time to harvest them. The best time to harvest peony seeds is late summer to fall, once seed pods turn dark brown and leathery and begin to crack open.

To ensure that you don't lose any peony seeds to birds, small mammals, or the forces of nature, tie a small mesh or paper bag, available on Amazon, around each maturing seed pod before they split open. This will help catch seeds before they fall to the ground or wildlife eat them.

How to Harvest Peony Seeds

Once seed pods on peonies have a dry, papery appearance it’s time to begin harvesting seeds. Viable seeds should be large, firm, and dark in color.

If you placed bags around your splitting peony seed pods, all you need to do is collect the seeds from the bag. If you left seed pods uncovered, prune the fading pods off your plant and gently crack them open to harvest flower seeds.

Some gardeners may wonder how to harvest peony seeds from cut flowers used in arrangements, but unfortunately this is not possible. Peonies only grow from mature seeds that develop on the plant in the garden.

How to Grow Peonies From Seed

After harvesting peony seeds, place them in a bowl of water to test their viability. Viable seeds will sink. Seeds that float are not viable, so do not plant these. Store seeds in a cool, dry place or plant immediately.

Late summer or fall is the best time for planting peony seeds. Direct sow seeds outdoors for the easiest method of propagation. Alternatively, you can plant peony seeds in seed starting trays, like these pop-out reusable seed starting trays from Amazon, but you need to provide them with specific conditions to help them sprout. This process is known as seed stratification.

In nature, peonies disperse their seeds in late summer to autumn. Seeds then begin to form small roots. In winter, they lie dormant and then burst forth as spring warms the soil. To mimic this natural cycle, place seed starting trays in the refrigerator for about three months, then move them to a warm, sunny location in spring.

Another space-saving way to germinate seeds like a pro is to place harvested seeds in a plastic sandwich bag with moist vermiculite and peat. Keep the bag closed and place it in a dark location with an average temperature of 70-75 F (21-24 C) until roots begin to form. Place the bag in the crisper of your refrigerator until it’s warm enough to transplant seedlings outdoors in spring.

Frequently Asked Questions

Peony Care Essentials

• These Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon will make peony trimming a breeze
• Back to the Roots Organic Bone Meal from Amazon will promote bigger blooms on your peony plants
• An easy-to-install drip irrigation kit from Amazon will help ensure your peonies are watered regularly at the roots

There are few flowers that are as romantic and pretty as a pink peony. Even if you are already a fan of this popular perennial, you may not have realized that there are several varieties of pink peony flowers. From bright pink to pale, almost white pink, and everything in between, you have your choice of pink peonies.

About Growing Pink Peony Plants

Peonies are large and showy flowers that grow on small shrubs with attractive green foliage. There are two main types: an herbaceous peony dies back each year, while a tree peony has woody stems that remain even while the leaves drop in the fall. Both types produce similar flowers, with many varieties in pink. To grow peonies in the garden, make sure they get about six hours of sunlight per day and soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. It is best to plant these shrubs in the fall and to water deeply every week until the roots have become established. Use a fertilizer in early spring. Cut flowers off when they are spent and cut back stems on herbaceous peonies in the fall, but not those on tree peonies.

Pink Peony Varieties

Growing pink peony plants isn’t difficult, especially once you get them established in the garden. Here are some of the most striking of the pink peonies:

• Big Ben. This variety produces extra-large flowers that are a deep and rich dark pink in color.
• Angel Cheeks. The flowers on this peony are the palest pink with a double-bloom form.
• Bowl of Beauty. As the name suggests, these blooms are bowl-shaped with darker pink petals on the outside and a cream to white center.
• Blaze. Blaze is striking with two to three rows of bright pinkish red petals and a cluster of yellow stamens in the center.
• Candy Stripe. For a pattern on your pink peony, try Candy Stripe. The flowers are double-bomb in form and the petals are white streaked with magenta.
• Do Tell. This flower has a few rows of pale pink, almost white, petals surrounding a cluster of magenta in the center.
• Fairy’s Petticoat. For a large, highly ruffled peony, choose this one. The color is pale to medium light pink.
• Gay Paree. One of the showiest of pink peonies, Gay Paree, has bright pink outer petals and a pale pink to cream cluster of ruffled petals inside.
• Myrtle Gentry. This peony will give you a stunning bloom with an outstanding fragrance. The flowers are pale pink and rose-shaped, fading to white with age.