Peppers hit an odd stretch in midsummer. The plants look their best right when the strain is heaviest, carrying a full load of fruit while the soil dries out by noon. Plenty of gardens quietly stop setting new pods in July, but the drop in production doesn't turn up until August.

The good news is that growing peppers in July comes down to a short list of jobs rather than a rescue mission. None of them take long. What they share is a focus on steadying the plant instead of pushing it. Even moisture matters more right now than any feeding schedule, and peppers coming off at the right point keeps the plant making more of veggies to eat.

Consistent care in July will set up your pepper plants for a huge harvest and continued healthy growth. Here are the most essential – but easy-to-do – tasks to check off your list before August arrives.

1. Fertilize for Fruit, Not Foliage

Nitrogen did what it needed to do in June. By July it starts working against your pepper plant, pushing leafy growth at the expense of flowers and leaving a big handsome pepper bush with very little hanging on it.

Plants already carrying fruit want less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, which is why Lilly Miller Morcrop 5-10-10 tomato and vegetable food from Amazon matches the stage the plants are actually in.

Side-dress plants lightly instead of generously – work roughly a tablespoon per plant into the soil about 6 inches (15 cm) out from the stem, then water fertilizer in. Reapplying every three or four weeks is plenty.

After fertilizing peppers, it takes time for the results to appear. So there's nothing to judge the next morning and a heavy hand in midsummer heat can cause fertilizer burn that are already under pressure.

2. Water Deeply & Consistently

Blossom end rot in peppers usually isn't from a calcium shortage in the soil. It's actually a delivery failure. The plant can't move calcium into developing fruit when the ground swings from soaked to dust and back to damp after watering.

Water pepper plants deeply two or three times a week. They prefer that over a daily splash. Water plants on roughly the same schedule week after week. If you're unsure, a finger pushed 2 inches (5 cm) into the bed settles the question of whether or not you need to water again. If soil is dry at that depth that means water now.

Wet foliage is what leaf disease waits for, and is part of why a heavy-duty soaker hose from Home Depot beats a sprinkler. Water for 30 to 45 minutes along the row of plants so moisture soaks down at root depth with nothing landing on the plant.

Add mulch to hold in moisture and protect from heat. Use straw or shredded leaves at 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) deep and the soil quits cooking by mid-afternoon.

3. Protect From Scorching Sun

Pepper flowers don't form or develop into fruit when days climb past 90°F (32C) and nights hang above 75°F (24°C). Pollen turns sterile, the flower drops, and the plant carries on looking perfectly healthy while setting nothing at all. It's a common reason a July pepper plant seems to quit for a few weeks, and the fruit already on board will keep sizing up through it, which hides the problem for a while.

Shade in the 30 to 40 percent range, run from late morning through the worst of the afternoon, can pull leaf temperature down enough to keep pollen viable. A panel of 40% sunblock shade cloth from Walmart hung on hoops or tied off between stakes does the job and comes down once the forecast eases. The plants keep enough light to carry on growing. It's a filter, not a lid.

4. Support Growing Peppers

Pepper stems are brittle and a branch loaded with fruit tends to split from the main stem during the first hard storm that comes through. That single break can take a third of the harvest with it. A plant that's already leaning has waited too long for support.

Stake pepper plants with supports driven 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) deep beside the main stem. 4-foot bamboo stakes with garden twine from Amazon are perfect for this job. Tie with a figure-eight so the stem isn't cinched against the stake and leave the tie slack so the trunk can continue to thicken through August. Attach ties loosely at two or three heights to support the whole plant.

5. Pick Early & Often

Peppers left to fully ripen on the plant send a signal that the season's work is done, so flowering slows to match. Sweet peppers picked at full size while still green will push the plant to set another round of fruit.

Picking sweet peppers early is fine. A green pepper on the counter is the same pepper it would have been in the garden, just minus a couple weeks of waiting. Harvesting hot peppers is the exception, since capsaicin keeps building as they color up.

Harvest peppers by cutting at the stem with pruners instead of pulling, since a tug can take the branch with the pepper. Check every two or three days once the fruit starts coming.

Pick anything that's split or showing soft spots, even if it's nowhere near ready. Damaged fruit draws common pepper pests and gives the plant no reason to keep working.

Your pepper plants in June might not look like my pepper plants in June. That’s because the date for planting pepper seeds indoors and the date for transplanting them outdoors will vary quite a bit depending on your climate.

However, anyone who is growing peppers this summer will need to take some of the same basic steps in June. These are not complicated vegetables. If you give them a site with the proper amount of sunlight, the appropriate soil, and sufficient water then you are likely good to go.

So here are five essential tasks that you need to do for pepper plants, at any stage, in June.

What Your Pepper Plants Need in June

Hello, summer! You’re just starting to enjoy being outdoors which is a lucky thing, since June is a big month in the garden. Here’s what to do with your pepper plants now for a huge harvest later in the season.

1. Give Them Plenty of Water

This is not a shocker. All young vegetable plants need water. No matter where you live in the United States, June weather will be warmer than May, April, or any of the previous months of the year.

June signals the beginning of summer, with more sun and hotter days, which sends peppers’ water requirements to the top of the to-do list for June. This is true whether your plants are recently transplanted seedlings or established plants.

All pepper plants need water, across all of the growth stages of their lives. Young seedlings need soil that is always moist, but they will die in soggy soil. Give transplanted seedlings a deep, slow watering two or three times a week, depending on weather. A drip irrigation kit from Home Depot, like this one Content Editor Laura uses in her own garden, is a great way to give peppers consistent irrigation at the source.

You want to encourage those young pepper plants to send their roots deep into the soil. Deep roots mean greater drought tolerance. Established plants require 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of water per week, ideally through drip irrigation.

2. Make Sure They Get Enough Sun

Yes, some vegetables are happy to grow with more shade than sun – think lettuce – but peppers are not among this crowd. They grow fast and require many hours of direct sunlight every day to produce those crisp and luscious fruit.

Insufficient sunlight means tall, leggy plants and poor pepper crops. One of your June pepper tasks will be to check on their sun quotient and do what’s necessary – whether that's clearing branches above them to transplanting, if necessary – to provide enough sunlight.

How much sun do peppers need? As much as possible. That is, peppers require at least 6 hours per day of direct sun and won’t complain if you give them up to 12 hours. The ideal situation for a pepper plant is a site that gets direct morning sun and a bit of afternoon shade rather than no morning sun and full afternoon sun, which can cause sunscald on peppers.

3. Watch for Pests

The June weather is so nice that the whole family spends more time outside in the backyard. But you aren’t alone. A variety of common pepper pests also like the early summer weather. They show up in the garden, happy and hungry. The golden rule for dealing with pests in the garden is to catch them early. That makes it easier to get rid of them.

The pests you are likely to see in June may depend on where you live. But almost everywhere there are aphids, European corn borer, corn earworm, and pepper maggot. Aphids form colonies on pepper plant leaves, often on the underside, and such out the sap. The other three insect species will damage the fruit.

Monitoring for pests means inspecting those pepper plants every week or even twice a week. Look on the undersides of the leaves for aphids, use yellow sticky traps like these from Amazon, and search for signs of damage. Neem oil, which you can also get from Amazon, is effective on all of these pests as well.

4. Pinch Out Early Flowers

This is a hard one for some gardeners, including me! But it’s a proven fact that pinching out early flowers on pepper plants is a good strategy over time. Early flowers suck energy from the plant during a time when they should focus on developing strong roots and foliage.

Pinching out those blossoms will make your plants more vital and healthier. It can also mean that you’ll get more peppers from each plant. It also puts the brakes on premature pepper fruiting and gives the plant a chance to mature before producing peppers.

5. Add a Protective Layer of Mulch

Mulch is kind of magic. It protects the roots of the plants from temperature spikes and drops, putting a buffer between the soil and the elements. Mulch can also hold moisture in the soil, especially in the hot sun, and reduce the risk that soil-borne pathogens that splash up on the lower leaves of the pepper plants when it rains.

What type of mulch should you use? Pick something natural, a product that will disintegrate into the soil over time. This organic wood mulch from Back to the Roots is a good option. I also like leaf mulch, straw, or grass clippings for peppers.

Be sure that the mulch doesn’t actually touch the stems of the plants or else this can cause fungal diseases. While you are laying the mulch, take the time to clip out the lowest-hanging leaves, too. This is another way to reduce soil splashing.

Growing bell peppers in containers is a joyful, rewarding way to bring the vibrancy of a kitchen garden to even tiny growing corridors. Whether you have a sun-drenched urban balcony, a modest patio, or just a few feet in a crowded backyard, you can produce a bounty of crunchy, colorful sweet peppers for months of joyous flavor in stir-fries and sunset salads – or even just a homegrown snack.

Container gardening with bell peppers is a brilliant workaround if you don’t want to be digging raised beds or tilling soil. It offers you total control over growing culture and environment. You can choose the soil, manage the moisture, and even chase the sun by moving pots throughout the day. If you’ve been hesitant to start a real garden, consider this your chance to start small, dream big, and grow a rainbow.

Peppers are warm-season veggies, and understanding their love for the heat is the first step toward success. Unlike hardy greens or root veggies, bell peppers are true sun-worshippers; they need consistent warmth to thrive and produce fruit. By growing bell peppers in pots, you gain an advantage, as the soil in a container warms up much faster in spring, giving your peppers a cozy head start on the season. Here is everything you need to know to turn your patio or porch into a pepper powerhouse.

Choosing Peppers for Containers

Whether you’re starting from seed or using plugs or transplants, the right bell pepper varieties are a must. While almost any pepper can grow in a pot, some varieties seem born for it. When thinking about planting bell peppers in containers, look for terms like compact, bush, or patio. These plants are bred to stay manageable in height, while still pumping out full-sized or snack-sized fruits. If you are using a 12-inch (30 cm) terracotta pot, look for determinate or dwarf varieties. If you have a larger 5-to-10-gallon planter, you can experiment with more vigorous heirloom types that might need a bit more elbow room for their root systems.

For a high-yielding experience, the ‘Mini Bell’ series is a classic choice. These stay small but produce a rainbow of tiny peppers. If you want high-impact color, ‘Orange Blaze’ is a multi-award winner, known for its disease resistance and sweet flavor. For those with limited space, ‘Pretty N Sweet’ is so ornamental it could live in a flower box, yet it produces edible, multi-colored peppers. If you prefer a more elongated, thick-walled pepper, ‘Escamillo’ is a golden-yellow Italian type that thrives in the warmth reflected off patio stones. See below for some excellent entry-level peppers that are sure to thrive in container-based gardening situations.

Shop Peppers for Pots

Finding the right seeds or starts is the first step to a successful bell pepper harvest. Here are some of the most reliable and prolific bell pepper varieties you can grow in a range of zones, specifically suited for container life and smaller spaces.

Choosing a Container and Soil

Grow the roots, and the plant will follow – an expression that is so true for peppers. When growing bell pepper plants in containers, choose a pot that allows for deep breathability. A 5-gallon bucket is ideal for a single bell pepper plant, though a 3-gallon pot can work for dwarf varieties. Always prioritize drainage. If your pot doesn't have holes, get your drill out. Without drainage, pepper roots will drown and develop root rot. Dark-colored plastic or glazed ceramic pots are excellent for peppers, because they absorb heat, keeping the root zone toasty. Just be careful they don't overheat on baking summer days.

Invest in a high-quality potting mix blend. These can be coco-coir-based and include perlite for aeration. Coir bricks like the Legigo Pack of Organic Coco Coir Bricks from Amazon are easy to find, and great for bulk buying on a budget. You can also add perlite such as Sta-Green Perlite from Lowe’s helps to further boost drainage. Also look for mixes containing mycorrhizae, which are beneficial fungi that help roots absorb more nutrients and water. A mix of two parts potting soil to one part well-rotted compost provides the perfect balance of drainage and nutrition.

Sowing versus Transplant Growing

The seed-starting versus transplant debate usually comes down to patience and variety. Starting from seed indoors is a labor of love that begins 10-12 weeks before the last frost. You’ll need a bright south-facing window or, ideally, a set of grow lights. Choose a full-spectrum grow light setup, such as the Spider Farmer SF1000 from Amazon. This buys them time to grow into healthy transplants that can be moved outdoors once the weather is right. Don’t forget a good heat mat, such as the Burpee Seed Starting Heat Mat, to help regulate those toasty temperatures for emerging pepper seedlings.

If you’re starting late, nursery transplants (also called plant plugs) are a great way to make up for lost time. Look for stocky plants with deep green leaves. Avoid any that already have tiny peppers growing on them. A plant that is already fruiting in a tiny nursery pot is stressed and may bolt or stop growing once you get it home. Whether you grow your own or buy them, wait until nights are reliably above 55°F (10°C). One cold night can stunt a pepper plant, causing it to sit idly for weeks without growing.

Ease transplants into outdoor conditions by keeping them inside for most of the day and moving them outdoors for a few hours at a time. This helps harden them off and prepare them for the new environment.

Care for Bell Peppers in Pots

Once your peppers are tucked into their containers, they enter a marathon phase of growth. Peppers are heavy feeders and thirsty drinkers, but they are also communicative – they will wilt to tell you they need a drink, and perk up remarkably quickly once you tend to their needs. Knowing how to grow peppers in containers is about maintaining this balance with smart ongoing plant care. Here are the key tasks to keep an eye on as your bell peppers start to develop in earnest.

Light and Warmth

Peppers require a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct, unfiltered daily sunlight to produce the sugars necessary for sweet fruit. In a container, you have the mobile advantage and can move plants around through the day if need be to chase the best light. If a tree’s shadow cloaks a part of your patio in the afternoon, scoot your pots to a sunnier corner.

If you live in a cooler climate, placing pots against a brick wall can provide thermal mass, radiating heat back to the plants at night. Conversely, if you’re in a hotter region, a little afternoon shade can prevent sunscald. If you’re expecting a cold snap, bring containers indoors to protect the plants.

Watering

The soil peppers grow in should stay consistently moist, but not soggy. Make sure your containers are draining well and water them whenever the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry. Keep in mind that soil in containers dries out more quickly than soil in the ground. You might need to water your pots daily in the heat of summer, especially if it isn’t raining.

Stick your finger an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, water until it runs out the bottom. For an e-comm upgrade, consider a self-watering planter such as West Bay Self Watering Planters from Walmart, which helps to regulate water intake and also has those black plastic cases to absorb warmth.

Fertilizing

Think of bell peppers as hungry plants. Because every watering leaches nutrients out of the pot, you must replenish them. Start with a balanced organic liquid fertilizer (like a 5-5-5) every two weeks. Once you see the first blossoms, switch to a bloom booster or a feed with higher phosphorus levels (the middle number of the NPK figure). This tells the plant to stop making leaves and start making peppers.

Be careful with high-nitrogen fertilizers at this stage, or you’ll end up with a giant green bush but zero fruit. You can also find fertilizer designed specifically for peppers and tomatoes, such as TPS Nutrients’ Pepper Fertilizer from Amazon. Always follow the instructions on the product.

Staking and Support

Pepper plants benefit from staking, especially as the fruits develop and weigh down branches. A heavy crop of bell peppers can snap a branch. Don't wait until the plant is falling over to provide support. Insert a bamboo stake or a small tomato cage at the time of planting to avoid damaging roots later. For a stylish look, look for obelisk trellises like the Winston Porter Lylo Obelisk Trellis from Wayfair. These provide support while looking like garden art.

Problems with Peppers in Pots

Even the best gardeners face hurdles. Container peppers are generally safer from diseases, but they can still attract uninvited guests. Some of the most likely include aphids, which present as tiny green bugs clustering on new growth. A sharp blast of water from the hose or a spray of neem oil, such as Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil Spray from Amazon, will usually do the trick.

You might see a leathery black spot on the bottom of the pepper. This is blossom end rot, and it’s usually caused by calcium deficiency triggered by uneven watering, not necessarily a lack of calcium in the soil. If you see tiny webs, this could be spider mites, and it’s a sign that the air is too dry. Mist your plants or move them to a spot with better air flow.

Harvesting Peppers in Pots

The fun part of growing peppers in containers is the harvest. Bell peppers of various colors start green and are only fully ripe when they change to red, orange, yellow, or another color. You can, however, harvest and eat them while they are green. Green peppers are simply unripe versions of the final color. If you harvest them green, the plant will be encouraged to produce more fruit. However, if you wait for them to turn red, orange, or purple, they become sweeter and higher in Vitamin C.

When it’s time to pick, don't tug the fruit. Pepper stems are notoriously brittle and can snap off a whole productive branch. Use a pair of Fiskars Micro-Tip Snips from Amazon to make a clean cut. Peppers keep best in the crisper drawer of your fridge for about a week. But for the best flavor, eat fresh within hours of picking. Harvest regularly to encourage the plant to keep producing until the end of the season.

Pepper Potting Essentials

Ready to get started with your potted peppers? These dedicated fruit-friendly care items are the must-have elements you need to ensure your container peppers thrive from day one.

Frequently Asked Questions

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You might think December's chill means pausing your gardening plans, but starting hot peppers indoors at Christmas gives them a welcome head start on summer heat. A few extra months under steady light help roots develop deeply, turning leggy starts into bushy producers that fruit weeks earlier, with seedlings ready to transplant by spring for fuller plants and heavier yields. From fiery habaneros to smoky chipotles, these indoor efforts pay off in peppers that really pack a punch without the wait – a payoff any impatient gardener will appreciate.

This timing aligns well with the regular routines for growing chili peppers, which emphasize steady warmth and light. “Can I grow peppers indoors in the winter?” becomes less a question and more a plan, with trays stacking up faster than you expect to maximize space. Pepper plants in winter benefit from a bit of controlled structure, their tropical leanings supported by simple setups that mimic consistent, bright equatorial sun.

Unless you plan to grow hot peppers as houseplants, you need to consider your USDA zone when starting seeds indoors – December suits 8 through 10 for a May move-out – but the principle holds: earlier means bigger, producing sturdier stems more capable of supporting fruit. Experiment with a windowsill row, and those first true leaves signal success, their scent a preview of the heat to come.

Why Start Hot Peppers in December

December seeding stretches the growing window, giving peppers 10 extra weeks to establish before outdoor transplant. Roots grow deeper, improving plants' drought tolerance and extending their fruiting period. Habaneros that hit shelves in August from spring starts linger bare until September; winter ones swell clusters by mid-July, steadily producing well into fall. This extension compounds – stronger plants support more fruit, often resulting in noticeably higher yields.

The math favors it too: every added month boosts overall growth, helping the plants develop fuller flavor without any extra fertilizer. Gardeners who commit early report harvests doubling, their rows a riot of red and green peppers that freeze well for winter salsas.

Choosing the Right Varieties

Superhots like ghost peppers suit patient growers, their 100 days to mature thriving on the extra time December planting provides for pods that scorch at 1 million Scovilles. Pair with milder jalapeños for quicker wins, their 60-day cycle yielding early green harvests by April for fresh pico de gallo. Varieties like 'Padron' are fun for a gamble, offering mild or fiery in the same bush – perfect for appetizers that surprise.

Focus on disease-resistant varieties like serranos or 'Mesilla' cayenne peppers for reliability, their compact habit fitting pots for balcony growing. Seed sources vary: heirlooms carry nuanced smoke; hybrids offer uniformity for first-timers. Mix three to five types for diversity, ensuring the bed buzzes with options from mild to mean, each tailored to your table's tolerance. This Red Dragon Chilli Seed Kit from Amazon contains 10 unique varieties to try.

Indoor Planting Setup

Shallow six-packs or recycled yogurt cups make good seedling pots, filled with sterile seed mix that drains fast to help prevent root rot in humid homes. Sow two seeds per cell, half an inch (1.25cm) deep, labeled with popsicle sticks to keep track of varieties through tray shuffles. A seedling heat mat with thermostat, like this Vivosun model from Amazon, warms the bottoms to 80°F (27°C), speeding germination from weeks to days without scorching the tops.

Dome loosely with plastic for humidity, venting daily to circulate air, which reduces mold and toughens stems against later winds. Stack them on wire racks for airflow, rotating weekly to even light exposure and prevent spindly seedlings. This compact system from Amazon works even in small apartments, yielding dozens from a closet corner.

Light, Heat & Germination

Full-spectrum LED grow lights – like this Spider Farmer one that I use, available on Amazon – mimic the sun's reach. You’ll want about 16 hours daily to ensure bushy plants that will transplant without shock. While south windows supplement on sunny spells, artificial lights are needed to fill gaps in cloudy Decembers – their blue wavelengths spurring chlorophyll development, encouraging thick, healthy leaf growth. A basic plug-in timer like this automates cycles, freeing hands for watering without guesswork.

Bottom heat at 75–90°F (24–32°C), with 85°F (29.5°C) being ideal, to germinate seeds in 7–10 days. It's also best to bottom water, rather than an overhead drench, which invites fungus. Thin seedlings to the strongest sprout per cell once the first "true leaves" appear.

Transplanting & Hardening Off

Pot up peppers at four leaves to 4-inch (10 cm) containers, burying stems to the first set to anchor them and ensure they resist toppling in garden gusts. Use a well-draining potting mix with perlite for breathability, firming gently to minimize air pockets and root stress. A hori hori knife, like this Perwin design from Amazon, is ideal for transplanting – its narrow blade slips between seedlings without tearing.

Harden off seedlings over two weeks, starting with hour-long porch stints in mild shade, building to full sun by May to acclimate without scorch. Cover at night if frost threatens, using tents or sheets to shield the transition. This gradual process toughens plants and ensures they hit the soil running.

You can keep peppers as houseplants or move them into the garden. Zone 5-7 gardeners should transplant peppers mid-May after the soil temperature hits 60°F (16°C) and seedlings reach 6 inches (15 cm) tall – expect fruit by July. Warmer 9-10 zones can plant out in April, for a harvest by summer's peak. Use a simple planting calendar, noting last frost dates to avoid late cold snaps.

Timing for Best Harvest

Harvest peppers green for steady pickings or red for maximum heat, clipping stems to encourage sideshoots that extend the season into October. Successive sowings every four weeks stagger supply, so you can blend fresh peppers with dried for salsas year-round. This foresight turns a few Christmas seedlings into a strong summer harvest – it's truly a garden gift that keeps giving.

If you love a little extra heat to spice up your foods, growing jalapeños indoors year round is doable, and with an indoor jalapeño plant, you’ll always have the peppers on hand.

Growing jalapeños indoors is a little different from growing plants outdoors, but essentially, you need to provide ample light, water, warmth, fertilizer, and well-draining soil in a generous container. An indoor jalapeño plant will need less water than if grown outdoors, and although there are fewer pests indoors than outdoors, be vigilant for spider mites, aphids, mealy bugs, or scale.

How To Grow Jalapeños Indoors

Our readers occasionally ask, “Can I grow jalapeños indoors?” The secret is out! You can grow them indoors with the proper care, starting them from seeds or by transplants. Look for a dwarf variety with disease resistance. Also, you can choose the level of heat (or amount of capsaicin) desired. Varieties such as Jalapeño M and Jalapeño TAM have less heat. It can take an average of 60 to 90 days to harvest if you are growing from seed.

Here are the key elements you will need to grow an indoor jalapeño plant.

• Container - The container needs to be large enough to accommodate the plant's root system, at least 12 inches (30 cm) across. It needs several holes in the bottom for drainage. Nursery pots have more holes than decorative containers so that is an option.
• Soil - Fill the container with fast-draining potting soil. You can add compost to aid in fertility and up to 30 percent perlite to increase drainage even more. Leave about 1 inch of space at the top of the container for watering.
• Light - Provide as much direct sunlight as possible, about six hours a day. Place the plant in a south or west facing window. If the plant’s stems become thin or they reach for the light, add a grow light (leave it on 14 to 16 hours a day).
• Water - Water the jalapeño plant till water runs out the drainage holes. If it is sitting in a saucer, remove the collected water within 15 minutes. Keep the soil moist but not saturated. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings.
• Temperature and humidity - Jalapeño plants need warm temperatures and moderate humidity. Most homes have low humidity so your plant may benefit from a humidity tray. Set the plant’s container on a tray of pebbles and fill the tray with about a quarter inch of water. Do not let the water touch the bottom of the pot or the water could be absorbed into the root system and cause root rot. Ideally, the water evaporates, increasing the humidity around the plant.
• Fertilizer - Fertilize the plant regularly with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 15-15-15. The numbers are a ratio of how much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is in the mix. Follow the instructions on the package as to how often and how much to feed the plant. It is important not to over fertilize the plant.
• Pollination - You will need to hand pollinate the peppers if grown solely indoors. Using a small, clean paintbrush, brush the center bud of each flower, thereby spreading pollen among the flowers.
• Harvesting - Wear gloves when harvesting the peppers, and always cut the peppers from the stem rather than twisting or pulling them, which can damage the plant. The peppers should be a shiny green color and firm to the touch, yet slightly soft. For more heat, you can leave the peppers on the plant till they turn red.

Pests And Disease

Indoor pests could include aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs or scale. Insecticidal soap should eliminate aphids. For spider mites, mealy bugs or scale, Neem oil can be sprayed in weekly applications till the infestation is gone.

Prevent diseases such as leaf spots or root rot. Avoid over watering the plant or wetting the leaves while watering. If a few leaves develop spots, remove the leaves.

Flowers, move aside! Ornamental pepper plants can add intriguing colors and texture to flowerbeds, planters and indoor pots. Use them to decorate the kitchen, for edging around the patio or to brighten up curb appeal at the front of the house. But are ornamental pepper plants edible, or do they just have decorative value?

What are Ornamental Peppers?

Ornamental pepper plants differ from ordinary garden types of peppers by where the fruit is produced on the plant. On ornamental varieties, the peppers grow at the end of the stems, while garden types have their fruit hidden among the foliage. Ornamental pepper plants also tend to have a more compact growth habit.

It's not uncommon for gardeners to ask, “Can you eat ornamental peppers?” It should be noted that as a member of the nightshade family, the leaves of all types of pepper plants are toxic to humans and pets. However, like garden peppers, the fruit that grows on ornamental varieties of pepper plants is edible, but there is a catch. Many varieties of ornamental peppers really pack a punch.

While these super hot pepper varieties can be used in spicy cuisine or for a rousing game of dare amongst adult friends, most lack the flavor complexity of garden peppers. Care should also be taken when growing hot ornamental peppers around small children or pets. Their cute shapes and sizes make them tempting to try.

The Ornamental Pepper Plant: Edible and Hot Varieties

Ornamental pepper plants have the same growing requirements as garden varieties. In general, pepper plants prefer full sun and rich, well-draining soil. They tend to be fairly disease and deer resistant. Gardeners are advised to watch for aphid or whitefly infestations, especially when growing ornamental varieties indoors.

These decorative plants host a wonderful array of fruit colors, including yellow, orange, red, purple and white. In some varieties, the fruit changes color several times during the ripening process. The foliage of ornamental peppers can be green, but some varieties sport dark burgundy or black leaves. Cultivars with variegated foliage are also available.

If you wish to add ornamental peppers to your indoor plant collection or outdoor landscaping, consider these popular varieties:

• Aurora – A medium to hot pepper, Aurora has the spiciness of 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville units. The fruit changes from green to purple to orange, then red when fully mature.
• Basket of Fire – With a growth style which is ideal for hanging planters, Basket of Fire peppers rank about 80,000 Scoville units. The fruit color transitions from creamy yellow through orange to red.
• Black Pearl – Ranked between 10,000 and 30,000 Scoville units, Black Pearl peppers are still much hotter than jalapeños. The black foliage contrasts nicely with the fully ripe red fruit.
• Calico – As one of the variegated ornamental pepper varieties, Calico's leaves sport a tricolor mix of medium green, creamy white and purple foliage. The fruit ripens to a shade of red and has 50,000 to 70,000 Scoville units.
• Chinese 5 Color – Great for spicy salsa, growers can expect a heat intensity of 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville units from the 1 inch (2.5 cm), cone-shaped fruits of the Chinese 5 Color pepper.
• Chilly Chili – As one of the mild ornamental pepper varieties, Chilly Chili's spiciness registers less than 1000 Scoville units. The 2 to 3 inch (5-7.6 cm.) fruit ripens from yellow to red.
• Medusa – Although the pencil-shaped fruit of this prolific pepper plant look like they would be extremely hot, Medusa ranks under 1000 Scoville units. The fruit transitions from creamy white to red while ripening.
• NuMex Twilight – As NuMex Twilight peppers transition from brilliant purple to yellow, orange and cherry red, these indeterminate plants boast an array of colorful fruit to brighten up any garden corner. Mature peppers are spicy with 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville units.
• Sangria – With a mild Scoville rating under 5000, Sangria peppers look similar to a cayenne, but more colorful.
• Tangerine Dream – With the very slightly spicy rating of under 100 Scoville units, Tangerine Dream has a sweet ornamental pepper taste. The short, cone-shaped fruit turns orange when ripe.

It's absolutely infuriating! Your pepper plants were growing beautifully yesterday and today they are broken, chewed or just plain missing. By far, most major damage to pepper plants occurs from insects and pests, such as cutworms, hornworms, and armyworms. But if you've ruled out these pests, you may be wondering what animals eat pepper plants? 

Animals That Damage Pepper Plants

As home gardeners, we put a lot of time, effort and money into growing veggies for the dinner table. Yet, when animal pests enter our gardens, all of our hard work can disappear overnight. But before we can deter animals from the garden, we first have to identify the culprits.

Do deer eat pepper plants?

As members of the nightshade family, peppers are not one of the preferred foods of deer. However, hungry deer will eat most anything. Normally, there's plenty of desirable forage during the growing season, but a drought could attract deer to a well-watered garden.

Additionally, fawns begin grazing when they are only a few weeks old. A clipped off pepper plant could be the result of a young fawn sampling different types of plants. (Cutworms can also clip off pepper seedlings, but the upper part of the plant will be laying on the ground.)

Even though deer don't generally eat pepper plants, they can do extensive damage as they walk through the garden. They can step on seedlings as well as break large stems from full-sized pepper plants. To tell if deer have been in the garden, look for their split heart-shaped hoof prints.

Do rabbits eat pepper plants?

Like deer, rabbits tend to shy away from pepper plants, but they may sample young, newly planted pepper seedlings. They are more apt to dine on bean plants, carrot tops and lettuce leaves in the garden. Rabbits can also eat bell peppers (the fruit) and may be drawn to the sweetness as these veggies reach maturity.

You're most likely to catch wild rabbits eating pepper plants at dawn and dusk as this is their normal feeding period. Finding rabbit feces is another way to determine their presence in the garden. Rabbits produce piles of small, round droppings which vary in color from greenish brown to black.

Do gophers and groundhogs eat pepper plants?

Gophers dine on roots and can pull pepper plants down into their tunnels as they dine. Likewise, groundhogs eat about any type of vegetation, but prefer the fruits of veggie plants to the foliage. Both of these rodents can damage vegetable plants by tunneling through the garden.

How to Protect Pepper Plants from Animals

Deterrent sprays, row covers and scare tactics can provide temporary protection from animal pests. These inexpensive methods work best to protect young pepper seedlings from the nibbling mouths of rabbits and deer. They can be put into place as seedlings are transplanted in the garden and removed when pepper plants become established.

Fences, walls or high tunnels offer a more permanent solution for protecting garden plants. These structures not only deter animals from feeding on pepper plants, but prevent damage by denying animals access to the garden. Although these solutions can be a bit pricey to construct, keeping animals out of the garden and your pepper plants safe can be well worth the cost.

Growing peppers indoors is not common, but it can be done. These heat loving plants are also ornamental once they produce fruit. The Chili Pepper Institute has even developed several varieties of brightly fruiting plants to coincide with the winter holidays. The popular indoor pepper plant is easy to grow as a houseplant with a few special instructions. 

Plants in the Solanaceae or nightshade family need plenty of sun and heat to produce fruit. Peppers are one such group. The indoor pepper plant can provide you with hot peppers if they enjoy enough sun and heat. An ornamental pepper plant needs sunshine eight hours per day to promote fruiting. Some tips on how to grow peppers indoors will help gardeners produce the bold tasting fruit, all while enjoying their rainbow of colors. 

What is an Ornamental Pepper Plant?

Capsicum annum is the ornamental pepper. These are usually smaller than landscape peppers and their fruit ripens in a swath of colors, often at the same time on the plant. There may be red, gold, green, orange, and even dark purple peppers decorating the indoor pepper plant. Fruits are slightly elongated and terminate in a point. The plants may be grown outside in summer but are sold in fall and early winter as cold season color for the interior. They aren't just ornamental, however. The fruits can be eaten but are very spicy. Chilly Chili is a milder variety, while Sangria is extremely hot. 

How to Grow Peppers Indoors

Many varieties of pepper may be grown as houseplants. Select smaller varieties that will easily fit into a container when mature. You may purchase plants or try growing peppers indoors from seed. Sow seeds in a good seed starting planting mix in flats. Cover moistened soil with plastic or clear covers to act as a greenhouse and keep moisture in, while enhancing heat. Faster germination will result with the use of a soil heating mat. Transplant seedlings after they have a couple of sets of true leaves. Sanitize any previously used containers to prevent the spread of disease. Keep plants in a warm location where temperatures do not get below 60 degrees F. (16 C.) at night. 

Ornamental Pepper Plant Care

Peppers need at least eight hours of bright sunlight per day. Place containers in a southern window to provide them with enough light. Keep container plants moist but not soggy. Fertilize them a couple weeks after transplant with plenty of nitrogen. As the plant matures, it will need a food with a higher amount of phosphorus. Peppers also need calcium and magnesium to fuel production of healthy fruit. Ornamental pepper plant care is simple, but container plants do need a consistent supply of nutrient supplements. Indoor plants do not get as many problems with pests but keep an eye on them and combat with horticultural soap or oil.

Bottles of Tabasco® brand pepper sauce are a common sight on restaurant tables and grocery store shelves. This spicy condiment has a definite hot pepper taste, but is Tabasco a pepper variety, or is the sauce made from any number of hot pepper cultivars? 

Believe it or not, there is such a thing as a Tabasco pepper plant. Here's what you need to know in order to grow these peppers for your own version of homemade hot pepper sauce.

Is Tabasco a Pepper That Home Gardeners Can Grow

This iconic hot pepper is native to the state of Tabasco in the coastal region of southeast Mexico. In this frost-free environment, it's not uncommon for a Tabasco pepper plant to reach heights of nearly 6 feet (1.6 m.) tall. Like other peppers, Tabasco (Capsicum Frutescens) is a perennial that is more often grown as an annual in the cooler climates of North American gardens.

It was Edmund Mcllhenny who made this pepper's name a household word. During the reconstuction period following the Civil War, Edmund developed his own recipe for a pepper sauce made from the fruit of the Tabasco pepper plant. 

As a means to spice up southern cooking, its subsequent rise in popularity has made the Tabasco® brand the most popular hot pepper sauce in the world. Five generations later, Tabasco® brand pepper sauce is still manufactured on Avery Island, Louisiana and is sold in more than 180 countries and territories worldwide.

Although Mcllhenny's recipe is a guarded trade secret, home gardeners can grow Tabasco peppers and try their hand at making their own version of a homemade spicy pepper sauce. But be warned, the tabasco pepper Scoville rating ranges from 30,000 to 50,000 heat units. In comparison, Jalapenos rank much milder at 2,500 to 10,000 heat units.

How to Grow Tabasco Pepper Plants

Tabasco chili pepper seeds are readily available online. Most retailers offer the standard heirloom variety, but several cultivars have also been developed:

• Tabasco Green Leaf – Bred by Auburn University, this variety has resistance to tobacco etch virus.
• Tabasco Hawaiian – As a hybrid cross with Hawaiian hot peppers, this tabasco variety has a similar flavor palate to the Habanero. 
• Tabasco Short Yellow – A dwarf variety of the Tabasco pepper plant which reaches a mature height of 12 inches (30 cm.) tall. 

Like other pepper varieties, start Tabasco chili pepper seeds 8 to 10 weeks prior to the last frost date for your area. Cultivate seedlings in a similar manner as other pepper varieties and harden off plants before transplanting into the garden. These hot peppers are highly productive. The average gardener is likely to find one or two plants provide satisfactory yields for home use.

Tabasco chili peppers ripen to a range of colors including bright yellow, orange and red. With the tabasco pepper Scoville rating in the mid to hot range, using gloves when harvesting and handling the fruit is suggested. Remove the peppers from the plant with scissors to prevent broken stems and reduced yields. 

Tabasco chili peppers can be preserved by drying or freezing, but it's common to grow this variety for use in the preparation of a hot pepper sauce. Hot pepper sauces can be crafted using Tabasco peppers, vinegar and salt. Recipes for both fermented and unfermented versions are readily available. 

Most of us have taken a bite from a pepper that set our eyes to watering when we thought it couldn’t possibly be that hot and spicy. Other times, we’ve bought peppers for just that reason, only to get them home and find they’re not as powerful as we’d hoped. Why are they different, and how can we know ahead if each fruit has the desired amount of kick? Read on to learn what makes peppers hot and how this heat is measured.

Why Are Peppers Hot?

An ingredient called Capsaicin is what gives peppers their fiery spice. It is odorless and tasteless except for the hot element. How little or how much of this substance each pepper creates within depends on different factors. These factors have long been the subject of much research.

What is Capsaicin?

Capsaicinoids are the chemical produced in fruits of the plant. It is an oil-like compound, repelling water and is primarily located in the membranes of the fruit, as well as more lightly in the flesh. It has been used for as long as 8000 years to flavor meats and vegetables and to help preserve food.

Capsaicin has medicinal uses as well, and was used as far back as the ancient Mayans for treating infected wounds, earaches, and gastrointestinal problems. We continue to use it today as the primary ingredient in pain relief products such as gels, patches and ointments. 

In fact, the interest in capsaicin and its development in pepper pods led to a scale with which to measure it, the Scoville Scale. This scale determines heat from the capsaicin in units called Scoville Heat Units (SHU). It is not extremely accurate in letting us know what type of heat we can expect from various strains of the pepper plant. 

More recently, this scale has been replaced with a measuring system called “High-Performance Liquid Chromatography” (HPLC), which uses a machine to read the “chemical fingerprint of capsaicin in a pepper.” While this is useful to food scientists and researchers, it does not help us determine which pepper we want to purchase, grow, or even bite into. 

Growing conditions can also determine the amount of heat held in the white membranes. Bell peppers do not produce capsaicin, but all other types can. If you wish to have an idea of how hot your peppers will be, learn names of those most sold in your produce section and research from there.

Know Your Peppers

The same applies to growing peppers in your garden. While there are over one hundred varieties to grow and numerous types to purchase, it is helpful to learn the names and how much heat to expect from each. Learning to determine which Chili peppers spicy and which are mild is a good starting point.

The Poblano pepper is known to be relatively mild, measuring at about 2500 SHU. Some types are hotter. The Ancho chilies are dried versions of the Poblano. Forms of Chipotle are somewhat spicier, but still considered mild by professionals who use the scale. The Jalapeno is in the same category as the Chipotle, ranging from 2500 to 10000 units.

The Serrano and Cayenne peppers are further up on the SHU scale. Habaneros are hot. The Carolina Reaper is the hottest pepper on record.

Whether you're looking for a spicy culinary pepper or you just enjoy growing potted hot peppers for their beauty, you can't go wrong with the pequin chili pepper. This variety of hot chili has a smoky flavor and registers between 40,000 to 60,000 Scoville heat units, making it slightly hotter than the cayenne. Click here for more about the pequin chili pepper as well as growing information 

What is a Pequin Pepper Plant

The only pepper native to the United States, the pequin can be found growing wild in various regions of Texas. As a cultivated pepper, it is easy to grow in almost any type of garden soil. It remains a compact size and is quite productive, making it well suited as a container grown chili.

Related, and sometimes confused with the chiltepin pepper, the pequin is thought to have a slightly fruitier flavor. The two can be distinguished by the shape of their fruit. Both are distributed by bird droppings and share the common names of bird pepper or turkey pepper.

How to Grow Pequin Chili Peppers

In northern climates, pequin chili peppers can be grown as a garden annual. Like other pepper varieties, these pepper seeds can be started indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date. Seedlings should be hardened off prior to planting in the garden. Choose a sunny to partly sunny location and transplant after danger of frost.

In Southern climates, where winter temperatures rarely dip below freezing, the pequin can be grown year-round as a perennial. Both the leaves and the fruit can suffer from sun scorch, so providing shade from intense sunlight is recommended. Periodically fertilizing with bone meal can provide the extra calcium and phosphorous your pepper plant will need.

As a container grown plant these peppers can be grown as perennials in climates where it's not winter hardy. A three gallon pot is a sufficient size for these compact peppers. A wide planter is preferred over a tall one as peppers are not deep rooted. Aphids tend to be a problem when overwintering pepper plants indoors. Using insecticidal soap or a compost tea spray can help control them.

Pequin Pepper Seeds

Take care when harvesting pequin chili peppers so as not to damage the plants. Once harvested, fresh chili peppers can add sufficient heat to culinary dishes. Pequins can also be dried and crushed, then used as hot pepper flakes for seasoning food.

Capsaicin is the chemical in peppers which makes them hot. It's contained in the white ribs surrounding the seeds and can be transferred to the seeds. To reduce the intense heat, this pithy material and the pequin pepper seeds can be removed before adding to recipes.

When handling and cutting up hot chili peppers, capsaicin can irritate and inflame the skin of the hands and from there can be transferred to other parts of the body. Disposable gloves are highly recommended and take extra care not to touch your face or eyes when prepping hot peppers!

Occasionally when shopping, gardeners run across an exotic looking pepper or one which has exceptional flavor. When you cut it open and see all those seeds inside, it's easy to wonder “will store-bought peppers grow?” On the surface, it seems to be an easily answered question. Yet, whether grocery store pepper seeds can be used in the garden can't be answered with a simple yes or no. Here's why:

Can You Plant Store-Bought Pepper Seeds?

Can you plant store-bought pepper seeds, and will they grow into the type of pepper you want depends upon several factors:

• Is the pepper a hybrid? Store-bought bell pepper seeds from hybrid varieties of peppers don't have the same genetic make-up as the parent pepper. Therefore, they rarely grow true to type. 
• Was the pepper self-pollinated? While pepper flowers often pollinate themselves, the possibility of cross-pollination exists. Even if the pepper is an heirloom variety, the seeds from grocery store peppers may not perform as expected.
• Are the grocery store pepper seeds ripe? If the pepper is green, the answer is no. Peppers which have reached maturity have a different color such as red, yellow, or orange. Even brightly colored peppers may have been picked at an immature stage which resulted in seeds which didn't ripen sufficiently to germinate.
• Were the store-bought bell pepper seeds irradiated? The FDA approves irradiation of produce to eliminate food-borne pathogens. This process renders the seeds useless for growing. Irradiated foods must be labeled as such. 

Is It Worth Planting Store-Bought Pepper Seeds?

Whether or not planting store-bought pepper seeds is doable depends upon the individual gardener's taste for adventure and available garden space for experimentation. From a monetary standpoint, the seeds are free. So why not give it a go and try your hand at growing grocery store pepper seeds!

To help you get started, here are a few tips for planting store-bought pepper seeds:

• Seed Harvesting– After carefully cutting the core from the pepper, gently remove the seeds with your fingers. Collect the seeds on a paper towel.
• Drying and storing pepper seeds– Place the seeds in a dry location for several days. When they are dry to the touch, store them in a paper envelope for up to two years. 
• Germination testing– Determine the viability of the store-bought bell pepper seeds by using the plastic bag method for sprouting seeds. This saves resources, like seed pods or seed starting potting mix, should the seeds fail to germinate. In most areas, it's advisable to start pepper plants six to eight weeks before the final frost date in the spring.
• Raising seedlings– If the grocery store pepper seeds germinated successfully, plant the sprouts in starting trays using a quality seed starting mix. Peppers require plenty of light, warm temperatures, and moderate soil moisture levels.
• Transplanting– Pepper seedlings can be transplanted outdoor once danger of frost has passed. Seedlings started indoors will need hardened off. 

If you're lucky, planting store-bought seedlings will yield the type of peppers you desire. To ensure continued quantities of this pepper in the future, consider stem-cutting propagation as a method of pepper propagation.

If you enjoy growing and consuming chili peppers, then you've likely experienced the sensation of burning hot pepper on your taste buds, around your mouth, and on your skin. Capsaicin is the chemical responsible for this phenomenon. This alkaline oil-like compound is contained in the pithy white membranes which surrounds the seeds of hot peppers. The oil spreads easily. So, if you're wondering what helps hot pepper burn, here's what to do.

How to Stop Hot Pepper Burn

Due to their chemical properties, oils float and don't dissolve in water. Running water over hot pepper on hands only serves to spread capsaicin. The key to stopping the heat and providing relief is to break up or neutralize the oil.

Here are some common household products which can reduce or eliminate hot pepper on hands or skin (Don't use these remedies in or near the eyes):

• Alcohol: Rubbing or isopropyl alcohol is a solvent which breaks up oils. Apply liberal amounts of rubbing alcohol to the skin, then wash the area with soap and water. It's not advisable to soak in isopropyl alcohol, as it can be absorbed into the body. In a pinch, alcoholic beverages can also be used.
• Degreasing Cleaners: Dish soap is formulated to remove oils and grease from dishes. It works better at dissolving capsaicin than regular hand soap. If you have it handy, use a degreasing hand cleaner made for mechanics.
• Corn Starch or Baking Soda: These pantry shelf staples neutralize capsaicin oil. Make a thick paste using a minimal amount of water. Coat the hands or skin with the paste and let it dry. Once dry, the powdery residue can be washed off with soap and water.
• Vinegar: Acetic acid neutralizes the alkalinity of capsaicin. Pour it over hands or contaminated skin. It's also safe to soak skin in a mixture of vinegar and water for 15 minutes. Additionally, you can rinse your mouth with vinegar to relieve hot pepper burn. Also, try acidic beverages containing tomato, pineapple, lemon, or lime.
• Vegetable oil: Cooking oils dilute capsaicin, making it less potent. Rub generous amounts on the skin, then wash it off using dish soap or hand cleaner.
• Dairy Products: There's a reason many spicy dishes are served with sour cream or yogurt. Dairy products contain casein, a fat-binding protein which dissolves capsaicin oil. Use fatty dairy products to relieve mouth burn. Soak your hands in whole milk, yogurt, or sour cream. Be patient as this remedy make take up to an hour to work.

Getting Rid of Pepper Burn in Your Eyes

• Rapidly blink your eyes to stimulate the release of tears. This will help flush out the burning hot pepper oil.
• If you wear contacts, remove them after ensuring your fingers aren't contaminated with capsaicin. Dispose of the contacts as cleaning oil off contaminated lenses is nearly impossible.
• Use a saline solution to finish cleaning out the eyes.

To prevent hot pepper on hands, gardeners and home cooks are advised to wear gloves when picking, handling, or preparing chili peppers. These COOLJOB Gardening Gloves, 2 Pairs, from Amazon are lightweight and breathable for a comfortable fit. Replace gloves punctured by sharp knives or garden elements. Remember to remove gloves and wash your hands with soap and water before touching your face, rubbing your eyes, or using the bathroom.

More From Gardening Know How

Growing Hot Peppers
● Growing Peppers for Hot Sauce
● Can You Grow Store-Bought Pepper Seeds?
● How to Pick Hot Peppers for Peak Spiciness
● Growing Hot Peppers Indoors

Types of Hot Peppers
● Growing Cayenne Peppers
● Growing Jalapeno Peppers
● Growing Thai Peppers
● Growing Ghost Peppers

Hot Pepper Uses
● Drying Hot Peppers
● Cayenne Pepper Pest Deterrent
● Add Pepper to Bird Feeders
● Make a Hot Pepper Spray

If you like five-star, spicy Thai foods, you can thank Thai chili peppers for providing the heat. Thai pepper uses extend into the cuisines of South India, Vietnam, and other Southeast Asian nations as well. The following article contains information on growing Thai peppers for those of us who like that extra kick in our meals.

Are Thai Peppers Hot?

The fruit of the Thai pepper plant is indeed hot, hotter than jalapenos or serranos. To really appreciate their fiery flavors, consider their Scoville rating at 50,000 to 100,000 heat units! Like all hot peppers, Thai chili peppers contain capsaicin which is responsible for their tongue-tingling heat and can burn skin for up to 12 hours.

About Thai Pepper Plants

Thai chili peppers were introduced into Southeast Asia hundreds of years ago by the Spanish conquistadors. The pepper plant produced a plethora of small, 1-inch (2.5 cm.) fruits. The peppers are green when immature and ripen into a brilliant red color.

The small size of Thai chili plants, only about a foot in height (30.5 cm.), makes container growing a perfect fit. The peppers last a long time on the plant and look extremely ornamental.

How to Grow Thai Peppers

When growing, consider the plant's love for heat and humidity and their need for a long growing season of between 100-130 days. If you live in a region with a shorter season, start the chili peppers inside eight weeks prior to the last frost for your area.

Sow Thai chili pepper seeds just under a well-draining seed starting medium. Keep the seeds moist and warm, between 80-85 F. (27-29 C.). A heat mat can help to maintain the temperature. Place the seeds in a southern or southwestern exposed window so they get maximum light or supplement the light artificially.

When all chance of frost has passed for your area and soil temperatures are at least 50 F. (10 C.), harden the seedlings off over the course of a week before transplanting them. Select a site that is in full sun with rich, well-draining soil that has a pH of 5.5-7.0 as well as has had no tomatoes, potatoes, or other Solanum members growing in it.

Plants should be set 12-24 inches (30.5-61 cm.) apart in rows that are 24-36 inches (61-91.5 cm.) apart or space the plants 14-16 inches (35.5-40.5 cm.) apart in raised beds.

Thai Pepper Uses

Of course, these peppers enliven a variety of cuisines as mentioned above. They can be used fresh or dry. Dried pepper wreaths, or other hangings, lend a burst of color to your décor as can a potted Thai pepper plant with its abundant, cheerful red fruit. To dry Thai chili peppers use a dehydrator or an oven on its lowest setting.

If you don’t want to dry the peppers for future use or decoration, store peppers in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Remember when handling these particular peppers to use gloves and never touch your face or rub your eyes.

Is your palate hungry for something a little spicier than a jalapeno pepper, but not as mind-altering as the habanero? You might want to try the serrano pepper. Growing these medium-hot chili peppers isn't hard. Plus, the serrano pepper plant is quite prolific, so you won't need to devote much garden space to get decent yields.

What are Serrano Peppers?

Originating in the mountains of Mexico, the serrano is one of the spicy hot types of chili peppers. Their hotness ranges between 10,000 and 23,000 on the Scoville heat scale. This makes the serrano about twice as hot as the jalapeno.

Although nowhere near as hot as the habanero, the serrano still packs a punch. So much so that gardeners and home cooks are advised to wear disposable gloves when picking, handling, and cutting serrano peppers.

Many serrano peppers mature between 1 and 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) in length, but larger varieties grow to be twice that size. The pepper is narrow with a slight taper and a rounded tip. Compared to other chilies, serrano peppers have a thin skin, which makes them an excellent choice for salsas. They are dark green in color, but if allowed to mature they can turn red, orange, yellow, or brown.

How to Grow Serrano Peppers

In colder climates, start serrano pepper plants indoors. Transplant to the garden only after night time temperatures stabilize above 50 degrees F. (10 C.), as low soil temperatures can stunt the growth and root development of chilies, including the serrano pepper. Growing them in a sunny location is recommended. 

Like most varieties of peppers, serrano plants grow best in rich, organic soil. Avoid fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, as this can lower fruit output. In the garden, space each serrano pepper plant 12 to 24 inches (31-61 cm.) apart. Serrano peppers like slightly acidic pH (5.5 to 7.0) soil. Serrano peppers are container friendly too.

What to Do with Serrano Peppers

Serrano peppers are quite prolific and it's not unheard of to harvest as much as 2.5 pounds (1 kg.) of chilies per serrano pepper plant. Deciding what to do with serrano peppers is easy:

• Fresh – The thin skin on serrano chilies makes them ideal ingredients for spicing up salsa and pico de gallo recipes. Use them in Thai, Mexican, and southwestern dishes. Refrigerate fresh serrano peppers to increase their shelf life.
• Roast – Seed and remove the veins before roasting to temper their heat. Roasted serrano peppers are great in marinades to add a spicy zest to meats, fish, and tofu.
• Pickled – Add serrano peppers to your favorite pickle recipe to turn up the heat.
• Dried – Use a food dehydrator, sun, or oven dry to preserve serrano peppers. Use dried serrano peppers in chili, stew, and soup to add flavor and zest.
• Freeze – Slice or chop high-quality fresh serrano peppers with or without the seeds and freeze immediately. Thawed peppers tend to be mushy, so it's best to reserve frozen serrano chilies for cooking.

Of course, if you're an aficionado of hot peppers and are growing them to challenge your friends to a hot pepper eating contest, here's a tip: The color of the veins in a serrano pepper can indicate how potent that pepper will be. Yellowish orange veins hold the most heat!

The rather adorable name of Scotch Bonnet pepper plants contradicts their mighty punch. With a heat rating of 80,000 to 400,000 units on the Scoville scale, this little chili pepper isn’t for the faint of heart. For lovers of all things spicy, growing Scotch Bonnet peppers is a must. Read on to find out how to grow these pepper plants.

Scotch Bonnet Facts

Scotch Bonnet chili peppers (Capsicum chinense) are a hot pepper variety that hails from tropical Latin America and the Caribbean. A perennial, these pepper plants produce small, glossy fruit that ranges in color from red orange to yellow when mature.

The fruit is prized for the smoky, fruity notes it imparts along with its heat. The peppers look much similar to tiny Chinese lanterns, although their name is more likely derived from the resemblance to a Scotsman’s bonnet which is traditionally termed a Tam o’Shanter.

There are a number of Scotch Bonnet chili pepper varieties. Scotch Bonnet ‘Chocolate’ is mainly grown in Jamaica. It is dark green in infancy but turns a deep chocolate brown as it matures. Conversely, Scotch Bonnet ‘Red’ is pale green when unripe and matures to a brilliant red hue. The Scotch Bonnet ‘Sweet’ is not really sweet but rather sweetly hot, hot, hot. There is also the Scotch Bonnet ‘Burkina Yellow,’ a rarity found growing in Africa.

How to Grow Scotch Bonnet

When growing Scotch Bonnet peppers, it is best to give them a bit of a head start and begin seeds indoors about eight to ten weeks prior to the last frost in your area. The seeds should sprout within 7 to 12 days. At the end of the eight to ten week period, harden the plants off by gradually introducing them to outdoor temperatures and conditions. Transplant them when the soil is at least 60 degrees F. (16 C.).

Transplant the seedlings in a nutrient rich prepared bed with a pH of 6.0-7.0 in full sun. Plants should be spaced in 3 foot (just under a meter) rows with 5 inches (13 cm.) between plants. Keep the soil uniformly moist, especially during flowering and fruit set. A drip system is ideal in this regard.

Fertilize the Scotch Bonnet pepper plants every two weeks with fish emulsion for the healthiest, most bountiful crop.

Start fanning your mouth now because we are going to talk about one of the world's hottest peppers. The Carolina Reaper hot pepper scores so high on the Scoville heat unit ranking that it outstripped other peppers two times in the last decade. This is a not a hardy plant, so some tips on how to grow Carolina Reaper can help you get a harvest before the cold season hits.

Carolina Reaper Hot Pepper

Fans of hot, spicy food should try growing Carolina Reaper. It is considered the hottest pepper by the Guinness Book of World Records, although there is a rumored contender by the name of Dragon's Breath. Even if Carolina Reaper isn't the record holder anymore, it is still plenty spicy enough to cause contact burns, chili burn, and should be used with caution.

The Carolina Reaper is a cross between the well-known ghost pepper and red habanero. The Winthrop University in South Carolina was the testing location. The highest Scoville units measured were over 2.2 million, the average is 1,641,000.

The sweet, fruity flavor initially is unusual in hot peppers. The fruit pods are an unusual shape as well. They are chubby, red little fruits with a scorpion-like tail. The skin may be smooth or have small, pimply bumps all over. The plant also can be found with fruit in yellow, peach, and chocolate.

Starting the World's Hottest Peppers

If you are a glutton for punishment or just like a challenge, by now you are thinking you've got to try growing Carolina Reaper. The pepper is no harder to grow than any other pepper plant, but it needs an extremely long growing season and, in most cases, must be started inside well before planting out.

The plant takes 90 to 100 days to maturity and should be started indoors at least six weeks before planting outside. Also, germination can be very slow and take up to two weeks before you see a sprout.

Use well-draining, light soil with a pH range of 6 to 6.5. Plant seeds shallowly with just a bit of soil dusted over them and then water evenly.

How to Grow Carolina Reaper Outside

A week or two before transplanting outside, harden seedlings off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. Prepare a bed by tilling deeply, incorporating plenty of organic matter and ensuring good drainage.

These peppers need full sun and can go outdoors once temperatures during the day are at least 70 degrees F. (20 C.) by day and no lower than 50 degrees F. (10 C.) at night.

Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy. Feed the plants fish emulsion diluted for the first few weeks, weekly. Apply magnesium monthly either with Epsom salts or with a Cal-mag spray. Use a fertilizer like a 10-30-20 once a month as soon as buds start to appear.

For many growers, the process of starting seeds for the garden can be hectic. Those with larger growing spaces may find it especially difficult to get an early start on plants like peppers. With this, it is only natural that plant labels may become lost, leaving us to question which pepper plants are which. While some gardeners wait patiently until fruit appears later in the season, others may be eager to identify and distinguish between the types of peppers that they have planted much sooner, especially if they are passing them along to others.

How are Pepper Plants Different?

In general, there are several different types and species of peppers that growers may choose for their gardens. Even novice growers may be familiar with both sweet and hot peppers; however, the species of these plants will impact their size, shape, flower appearance, and sometimes appearance of the leaves.

How to Identify Pepper Plants

In many cases, the differences between peppers of the Capsicum genus can be minimal. The first step in learning to ID pepper plants is becoming familiar with the seeds. When planting a mixture of seeds, try separating them by color. Often, seeds that are very light or pale in color are for sweet or less spicy types of pepper, while darker seeds may belong to those that are hotter.

Once the seeds have germinated, pepper plant identification may become more difficult. Though some specific varieties of pepper may have characteristics that make them more identifiable, such as variegated leaves, most look relatively similar. It's not until the plants begin to flower that each pepper species may become more distinguishable.

Among the most commonly planted pepper plants in the home garden are the “annum” species. These peppers include bell, poblano, and jalapeno peppers. This species of pepper is characterized by its solid white flowers.

Another popular species, “chinense,” is prized for its spice and heat. Peppers like the Carolina Reaper and Scotch Bonnet also produce solid white flowers. However, unlike their mild counterparts, the centers of these flowers are usually dark in color.

Other species such as baccatum, cardenasii, and frutescens vary from the white flowered peppers in both flower pattern and color. While this information cannot ID pepper plants within the same species, it can assist growers who have planted multiple species in the same garden.

Did you know that chiltepin pepper plants are native to the United States? Actually, chiltepins are the only wild pepper giving them the nickname “mother of all peppers.” Historically, there have been many uses for chiltepin peppers throughout the Southwest and across the border. Interested in growing chiltepins? Read on to learn how to use chiltepin and care for pepper plants.

Information on Chiltepin Pepper Plants

Chiltepin peppers (Capsicum annuum var glabriuculum) can still be found growing wild in southern Arizona and into northern Mexico. The plants bear tiny fruit often referred to as “bird’s eye peppers,” and boy do these little babies pack a punch.

On the Scoville heat index, chiltepin peppers score 50,000-100,000 units. That’s 6-40 times hotter than a jalapeño. While the tiny fruits are indeed hot, the heat is fleeting and combined with a pleasant smokiness.

Growing Chiltepins

Wild peppers are most often found growing under plants like mesquite or hackberry, preferring a shaded area in the low desert. Plants only grow to about a foot (30.5 cm.) in height and mature in 80-95 days.

Plants are propagated via seed that can be difficult to germinate. In the wild, the seeds are eaten by birds that scarify the seeds as they pass through its digestive system, absorbing water along the way.

Mimic this process by scarifying the seeds yourself which will allow them to absorb water more readily. Keep the seeds consistently moist and warm during germination. Have patience, as sometimes it takes up to a month for the seeds to germinate.

Seeds are available at heirloom and native plant seed sellers online.

Care for Chiltepin Pepper Plants

Chiltepin pepper plants are perennials that, provided the roots don’t freeze, will reliably return with summer monsoons. These frost-sensitive plants should be planted against a south-facing wall to protect them and imitate their ideal microclimate.

How to Use Chiltepin Peppers

Chiltepin peppers are most commonly sundried, although they are also used fresh in sauces and salsas. Dried peppers are ground into powder to add to spice mixes.

The chiltepin is also mixed with other spices and pickled, creating a mouthwatering condiment. These peppers have also found their way into cheeses and even into ice cream. Traditionally, the fruit is mixed with either beef or game meat to preserve it.

For centuries, chiltepin peppers have been used medicinally as well, due to the capsaicin they contain.

Did you ever buy a pack of seedlings at your local nursery only to discover months later they were mislabeled? You find these wonderful peppers growing in your garden, but you have no idea as to the variety. Saving seeds won't do much good since they're most likely a hybrid, but did you know you can clone peppers from cuttings?

Gardeners often think of peppers as annual plants which need to be started from seeds each spring. In truth, peppers are perennials that form woody bush-like plants in frost-free climates where they can survive the winter. There is a way to regrow that wonderful mislabeled pepper for next year. All you need is a pepper plant cutting. Propagation is easy!

How to Clone a Pepper Plant

Select a stem that is approximately 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm.) long. The stem should be from a healthy plant with no frost damage, discoloration, or stunted growth. A woody stem will have a better chance of absorbing adequate amounts of moisture to prevent the leaves from wilting during the rooting period. Choosing a stem with two or more small branches will make bushier clones. When rooting peppers from cuttings, it's wise to take extra stems in case some don't root.

Using a sharp knife or pruning shears, clip the stem at a 45-degree angle. Make the cut directly beneath one of the small nodes where the leaves emerge. The plant tissue in this area is more likely to generate roots. Remove any peppers, buds, or flowers. Rooting a pepper cutting requires the plant to put its energy into making roots, not toward reproduction.

Remove the leaves from the node that is directly above the cut. If another node sits directly above the first node, remove the leaves from that node as well. Dip the bottom of the stem into rooting hormone.

Use a seedling starter soil, rockwool cubes, or rooting medium such as sand mixed with peat or vermiculite for rooting a pepper cutting. Gently push the pepper stem into the rooting material.

When rooting peppers from cuttings, it's essential to keep the soil or rooting medium consistently moist. Lightly mist or cover the pepper cuttings with plastic to prevent excessive water loss through the leaves. Keep the cuttings at an ambient temperature of 65 to 70 degrees F. (18 to 21 C.) or on a heated plant mat. Provide indirect sunlight or artificial light.

It takes approximately two weeks for small roots to appear. When the roots are about an inch or so (2.5 cm.) long, transplant the root cuttings into a pot. Overwinter the pepper plants in the house or plant outside if weather conditions permit.

While growing peppers from cuttings is more common with ornamental type peppers, any type of pepper plant can be used. Rooting a pepper cutting is a great way to save and regrow a favorite pepper variety or grow a hybrid variety without saving seeds.

If you’re interested in growing hot peppers from seed, you can choose from a huge variety of hot pepper plants, ranging from mildly warm and spicy poblanos to tolerably hot jalapenos. If you’re a seasoned pepper aficionado, plant a few habanero or dragon’s breath peppers. If you live in a warm climate, you can plant hot pepper seeds directly in the garden. Most people, however, need to start hot pepper seeds indoors. Let’s learn how to grow hot pepper seeds.

When to Start Hot Pepper Seeds

It’s good to get started about six to 10 weeks before the last average frost date in your area. In most climates, January is a great time for germinating hot pepper seeds, but you may want to start as early as November or as late as February.

Keep in mind that super-hot peppers, like habanero or Scotch bonnet, take longer to germinate than milder peppers, and they also require more warmth.

Growing Hot Peppers from Seeds

Soak the hot pepper seeds in warm water overnight. Fill a tray of celled containers with seed-starting mix. Water well, then set the trays aside to drain until the mix is moist but not soggy.

Sprinkle seeds over the surface of the moist seed starting mix. Cover the tray with clear plastic or slide it into a white plastic garbage bag.

Germinating hot pepper seeds requires warmth. The top of a refrigerator or other warm appliance works well, but you may want to invest in a heat mat. Temperatures of 70 to 85 F. (21-19 C.) are ideal.

Check the trays frequently. The plastic will keep the environment warm and moist, but be sure to water or mist lightly if the seed starting mix feels dry.

Watch for the seeds to germinate, which may occur as soon as a week, or may take as long as six weeks, depending on temperatures and variety. Remove the plastic as soon as the seeds germinate. Place the trays under fluorescent bulbs or grow lights. The seedlings need at least six hours of sunlight per day.

Tips on Hot Pepper Seedling Care

Use scissors to cut the weakest seedlings in each cell, leaving the strongest, sturdiest seedling.

Place a fan near the seedlings, as a steady breeze will promote stronger stems. You can also open a window if the air isn’t too cold.

Transplant the seedlings to 3- to 4-inch pots (7.5-10 cm.) filled with regular potting mix when they’re large enough to handle.

Continue growing the hot pepper plants indoors until they’re large enough to transplant, hardening them off beforehand. Be sure the days and nights are warm with absolutely no risk of frost.

If you’re a pepper fan, be it hot or sweet, and regret the end of summer and the colorful fruit, you might be wondering if you can grow pepper plants inside. It is possible to grow peppers as a houseplant; in fact, many floral departments sell ornamental peppers to be grown as indoor ornamentals. If you want indoor pepper plants for the purpose of eating, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure that growing peppers indoors is a success.

About Growing Peppers Indoors

Fruit from a pepper plant grown inside will never get as large as those grown outdoors; however, they will still pack the same amount of heat. The best pepper plants to grow inside are smaller peppers such as pequins, chiltepins, habaneros, and Thai peppers, or small ornamental varieties.

Indoor pepper plants need the same requirements as those grown outside. They need enough space in a container for their roots to grow. They need plenty of sunlight; a south- or west-facing window is ideal. If you don’t have enough light available, use a grow light.

Remember that peppers like it warm; how warm depends on the variety of pepper. Ornamental chili peppers like lots of sun but moderate humidity, while the little Scotch bonnets and habaneros prefer a moderate temp and high humidity. Most of the hot peppers like cooler nighttime temperatures and dislike either hot or cold drafts.

Most peppers like a temperature of about 80 F. (27 C.) during the day and 70 F. (21 C.) at night. This may be hard to achieve, but try to stay within 20 degrees of this. You can increase the temperature by putting the plants under a light or on a heat mat.

How to Grow Indoor Peppers

If the growing season is coming to an end but you have surviving pepper plants outside, bring those in containers indoors. If they are in the garden, dig them up carefully and repot them in a plastic pot in the evening when temps are cool.

Water the plants and place them in a shaded area outside for a few days. Keep an eye on them for pests and remove them. After a few days, place the peppers in an in-between spot such as a porch. After the pepper plants have acclimated, bring them indoors and put them either under grow lights or in a south- or west-facing window.

If you are starting from scratch, plant the seeds in an equal mix of peat moss, vermiculite, and sand (soilless medium) in a pot with adequate drainage holes. Push the seed just below the soil level. Keep the soil moist and the pots in an area with full sun. Depending upon the variety, germination should occur between 14-28 days.

Water the peppers when the top of the soil feels slightly dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering lest the plant's roots rot.

Feed peppers that are grown as a houseplant with a balanced fertilizer such as a 15-15-15.

So you have a lovely crop of hot peppers thriving in the garden, but when do you pick them? There are several things to consider before you decide how and when to pick hot peppers.

Depending on the variety, how and when to pick peppers can vary. Hot peppers have different requirements than sweet peppers and the timing for harvest impacts the level of spice. Let's take a look at how to pick peppers for peak flavor and heat. Plus, some general vegetable harvesting tips that will help you pick the best hot peppers.

When to Pick Hot Peppers

Most peppers take at least 70 days from transplanting and another three to four weeks thereafter to reach maturity. Hot peppers often take longer.

Be sure that you know what type of pepper you have planted and then look up the days to maturity. If you have a plant tag or seed packet, the planting time should be there. If you're not sure which pepper variety you have, there are a few general guidelines to tell when they're ready for picking.

The days to maturity will give you a big clue as to when your hot pepper harvest will commence, but there are other clues as well. All peppers start out green and, as they mature, turn colors. Most hot peppers turn red when they are mature but they can also be eaten when raw. Hot peppers also get hotter as they mature.

Peppers can be eaten at most any stage of development, but if you want to be picking peppers that are as hot as they can get, wait on your hot pepper harvest until they are red.

How to Harvest Hot Peppers

As mentioned, you can begin picking peppers that are hot at almost any stage, just be sure that the fruit is firm. Peppers that remain on the plant past maturity can still be used if firm. Keep in mind that the more often you cut fruit, the more often the plant will bloom and produce.

When ready to begin harvesting hot peppers, cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp pruning shear or knife, leaving a bit of stem attached to the pepper. It’s generally recommended that you wear gloves when cutting fruit from the plant to avoid irritating your skin.

Peppers that have been harvested just as they begin to turn color will continue to ripen at room temp for three days. Those that are full sized can be eaten green.

How to Store Hot Peppers

Harvested hot peppers can be kept at 55 degrees F. (13 C.) for up to two weeks. Do not store them in temperatures that are cooler than 45 degrees F. (7 C.) or they will soften and shrivel. If your refrigerator isn’t set too cold, wash the peppers, dry them, and then store in a perforated plastic bag in the crisper.

If you find that you have a surfeit of peppers, too many to use quickly, try pickling them or freezing them either fresh and diced or roasted for later use.

Hot peppers are an effective deterrent to many pests, but what plagues these spicy plants? There are several pepper plant insects that can attack the plants and their fruit, and the occasional bird or mammal might try a bite. The biggest culprits are a handful of insects and their larvae, but these can easily be dealt with by vigilance and organic methods of control.

Biggest Hot Pepper Pests

Glorious hot chilies and spicy peppers add punch to a host of recipes. Fruit with holes or shredded leaves though can compromise your crop. What's eating hot pepper plants? Mammals and birds usually avoid such spicy fare, but insects don't seem to mine the capsaicin laced peppers. There are several pepper plant bugs that can spell serious problems to your pepper harvest.

Probably the number one hot pepper plant insects are the pepper weevils and pepper hornworms. While their names might suggest they only bother pepper plants, they do cause trouble in several other crops.

• Pepper weevils are small, hard bodied insects with a pronounced proboscis that it inserts into plant tissue. Both adult and larvae feed on the plant and cause bud and fruit drop. The larvae get into the fruit and cause a rotted type flesh.
• Pepper hornworms are the larvae of a moth with a 4 inch (10 cm.) wingspan. They hide under the leaves during the day and come out to eat at night.

Small Hot Pepper Plant Bugs

The insects you can barely see are often the ones that do the most damage. Aphids, flea beetles, spider mites, and thrips are all quite small. Thrips and spider mites are almost impossible to see with the naked eye, but if you put a piece of white paper under the leaves of the pepper and shake, you will see the little specks of black (thrips) to red (mites).

The sucking and feeding activity from small pests result in stippled leaves, dropped foliage, and over all declination of plant health.

The damage from root knot nematodes may not be known until it's too late. They are tiny roundworms that live in soil and feed on the roots, resulting in loss of vigor and can kill the plant in heavy infestations. Leaf miners are tiny larvae that leave tell-tale trails in leaves. They can reduce crop size.

Controlling Bugs on My Hot Pepper Plants

Larger hot pepper pests can be dealt with by hand picking. It may seem tedious, but you avoid chemicals on your fruit and have the satisfaction of smashing your nemesis. Many of the smaller insects can be washed off the plant with quick bursts of water.

In high infestations, use a horticultural soap spray every week. Bacillus thuringiensis is a naturally occurring bacterium that is safe to use and works on many insect pests. Organic formulas that contain pyrethrins are also safe to use up until two weeks prior to harvest. Neem oil is also an effective organic option safe to use on edibles.

Growing hot peppers is an easy way to add to your culinary garden. Different varieties of chili peppers grow well in both containers and beds. A few hot pepper problems may damage your plants though. Know what to look out for and what diseases and pests could ruin your harvest this summer so you can prevent or treat as needed.

Hot Pepper Plant Diseases

There are many potential problems with hot pepper plants that you will find are caused by viral, fungal, or bacterial diseases. Several viral diseases affect chili peppers. Signs of a viral infection include leaf curl, mottled coloring on leaves, stunted growth, and dropped flowers. The best way to manage these diseases is to start with virus-resistant varieties.

Fungal diseases that affect pepper plants include damping off fungi in seedlings and Phytophthora root rot. The latter causes root rot in plants at any stage and results in wilting and death. Anthracnose fungi will cause spotting on leaves. Prevent fungal infections with well-drained soil, thorough cleanup of garden waste in the fall, and plenty of room between plants for air circulation. To manage existing fungal diseases, use a fungicide recommended by your local county extension office.

Hot Pepper Plant Pests

There are several pests that will attack hot pepper plants and cause varying degrees of damage. Early in the growing season look for damage to leaves caused by cutworm or flea beetle infestations. Later, you may see aphids collecting on the undersides of leaves.

Other insects that may damage your pepper plants include beet armyworm, loopers, and corn earworm. Insects may feed on and damage leaves, limiting photosynthesis or exposing peppers to sunscald. Some will also feed on the peppers.

Insect infestations can cause a lot of harm to pepper plants. Keep an eye on your plants regularly to try to catch early signs of pests. You may be able to remove them by hand, but if the infestation becomes severe, use of insecticide may be the only way to save plants.

Other Chili Pepper Problems

You may also have some issues with your peppers that are not related to pests or infections. For instance, if you see that the plants fail to fruit, weather may be the culprit. Early cold can prevent fruit set, so avoid planting peppers outside until after the last frost of spring.

Later in the growing season fruit set may be disrupted by very hot, dry weather. Watering your peppers regularly in a hot summer is essential.

A common problem in peppers is blossom end rot. It causes rot on the ends of peppers.

Are you looking for an unusual houseplant for your country décor? Maybe something for the kitchen, or even a pretty plant to include with an indoor herb garden tray? Consider growing hot peppers indoors as houseplants. These are great specimens for the situations mentioned.

Growing Hot Peppers Indoors

Foliage of ornamental hot pepper plants is attractive, peppers are ornamental, and they grow fairly well indoors. Of course, take advantage of warm, sunny days to give them that extra boost by putting them outside for a few hours.

Ornamental pepper is possibly the best hot pepper to grow indoors. Fruits are green, yellow, orange, and finally red. You may use them in cooking, but they are extremely hot. If you’re looking for a pepper plant to use regularly, try growing the colorful cayenne ‘Carnivale’ in a pot. Really, any hot pepper type will work well but stick with compact varieties, as these adapt better to containers.

You may start seeds of peppers in clean containers or purchase seedlings or small plants to grow indoors. Transplant into a permanent container. When growing small plants or seedlings, provide 10 to 12 hours of sunlight per day or locate plants 6 inches (15 cm.) under a grow light 14 to 16 hours.

When starting from seed, you may use a warming mat to sprout seeds. Start seeds in a warm spot out of direct sunlight and keep the soil moist. A plastic covering helps hold moisture. Increase sunlight as seedlings sprout. Proper lighting is essential to keep pepper plants from growing spindly when reaching for light.

Indoor Pepper Care

Care for hot peppers in pots will include turning the pots as seedlings lean toward the light. This won’t be needed if seedlings are directly under an artificial light. Pinch the first flowers down to the stem to encourage heavier fruit set. Only pinch the first few blooms so as not to interrupt the 70-day growing cycle. Flowers are perfect, meaning each one is both male and female, so they self-pollinate.

Indoor pepper care includes watering a couple times a week. Let the soil dry out between watering. Check down a couple of inches (5 cm.) with your forefinger before watering to make sure the soil is dry or use a moisture meter.

Fertilization is also an important step for the most attractive indoor pepper plant. Sources advise fertilization with fish emulsion or compost tea. You may also use a houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength.

Keep an eye out for pests. They are rare on pepper plants, especially those grown indoors, but occasionally attack if they have a chance. If you see aphids hovering near new growth, use a soapy spray to get rid of them. Fungus gnats are often a sign that soil is too wet. Decrease watering to stop attracting them.

Szechuan pepper plants (Zanthoxylum simulans), sometimes known as Chinese peppers, are graceful, spreading trees that reach mature heights of 13 to 17 feet (4-5 m.). Szechuan pepper plants provide year-round ornamental value, beginning with lush blooms in late spring and early summer. The flowers are followed by berries that turn bright red in early autumn. The gnarly branches, contorted shape, and woody spines add interest throughout the winter. Are you interested in raising your own Szechuan pepper? Growing this sturdy plant isn’t difficult for gardeners in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Read on and learn how to grow Szechuan peppers.

Szechuan Pepper Info

Where do Szechuan peppers come from? This fascinating tree hales from the Szechuan region of China. Szechuan pepper plants are actually more closely related to citrus trees than to familiar chili peppers or peppercorns. The peppers, which show up when the trees are two to three years old, aren’t widely used in the United States. However, they are a staple in Asia, where they are used to add spice to a variety of dishes. According to the Encyclopedia of Herbs and Spices by P.N. Ravindran, the tiny seedpods have a unique flavor and aroma that isn’t pungent like familiar red or black peppercorns. Most cooks prefer to toast and crush the pods before adding them to food.

How to Grow Szechuan Peppers

Szechuan pepper plants, generally planted in spring or fall, thrive in flower beds or large containers. Plant Szechuan peppers in nearly any type of well-drained soil. A handful of all-purpose fertilizer added to the soil at planting time will provided extra nutrition that gets the plant off to a good start. Szechuan pepper plants tolerate full sun or partial shade, however, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates. Water as necessary to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water is important during extended dry periods, especially for plants grown in pots. Szechuan pepper plants generally don’t require much pruning. Trim them to enhance the shape and remove dead or damaged growth, but be careful not to prune new growth, as this is where new peppers develop. Szechuan pepper plants are generally unaffected by pests and disease. Harvest Szechuan pepper plants in autumn. Put a tarp under the tree to catch the pods, then shake the branches. Wear gloves to protect your skin from the spikes when working with Szechuan pepper plants.

What is a hawk claw pepper? Hawk claw chili peppers, known as Takanotsume chili peppers in Japan, are claw-shaped, intensely hot, bright red peppers. Hawk claw peppers were introduced to Japan by the Portuguese in the 1800s. Looking for more Takanotsume pepper information? Read on and we’ll provide information about growing hawk claw chili peppers in your garden.

Takanotsume Pepper Info

When these chili peppers are young and green, they are often used for cooking. The ripe, red peppers are generally dried and used to spice up a variety of dishes. Hawk claw chili peppers grow on bushy plants that reach heights of about 24 inches (61 cm.). The plant is attractive and its compact growth is well suited for containers.

How to Grow Hawk Claw Chili Peppers

Plant seeds indoors in January or February, or start with small plants from a greenhouse or nursery. You can then plant the chili peppers outdoors after all danger of frost has passed in spring. If you’re short on space, you can grow them in a sunny indoor location. A 5-gallon (19 L.) pot works well for Takanotsume chili peppers. Fill the container with a good quality potting mix. Outdoors, Hawk Claw peppers need well-drained soil and at least six hours of sunlight per day. Pinch the growing tips of young plants when they’re about 6 inches tall (15 cm.) to produce fuller, bushier plants. Remove early blooms from small plants, as these draw energy from the plant. Water regularly, but don’t overdo, as overwatering invites mildew, rot and other diseases. As a general rule, chili peppers perform best when the soil is slightly on the dry side, but never bone dry. A thick layer of mulch will suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Feed Hawk Claw chili peppers weekly once fruit has set, using a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 5-10-10. Tomato fertilizer also works well for chili peppers. Watch for pests such as aphids or spider mites. Harvest Takanotsume chili peppers before the first frost in autumn. If necessary, harvest the peppers and let them ripen indoors, in a warm, sunny spot.

Whether you like them fresh, sautéed, or stuffed, bell peppers are classic dinnertime vegetables with lots of versatility. The slightly sweet flavor enhances spicy, herby, and savory dishes while the variety of colors enlivens any recipe. There are few things more jarring than a bitter bell pepper in a favorite dish. What causes bitter peppers? The reasons may be cultural, varietal, or simply the result of an impatient gardener.

What Causes Bitter Peppers?

Your pepper harvest is in and the first sacrificial lamb has made its way into your best recipe; but, alas, why are my peppers bitter? This is common in the under ripe bell pepper family. Green bell peppers boast a sweet/bitter balance when mature, but if you leave them on the plant to ripen further, they develop gorgeous colors and a much sweeter flavor. If you are growing bell peppers and want sweet fruit, you often just need to wait. If your "sweet" peppers are bitter, the cause may be the variety. The bells are the most popular, but there are many other sweet varieties with elongated forms.

• Italian horn shaped peppers are a rich red and have a succulent sweet taste.
• Sweet cherry peppers are bite sized spicy-candy that zest up recipes or pack a bit of punch as crunch raw treats.
• Roasting pimentos become even sweeter when cooked. Their elongated form and rich red color add pizzazz to recipes.

There are many more varieties from across the globe with rich, sweet flavor and unique shapes. Amongst the bell varieties, the red bell pepper is the sweetest while the less ripe green has a small bit of natural bitterness along with the sweet notes.

Fixing a Bitter Bell Pepper

Since pepper plants like hot, dry sites overall, it is common to consider them drought tolerant. This is incorrect. In fact, bell varieties need lots of water, especially while they are producing fruit. In average summer temperatures the plants need 2 inches (5 cm.) of water twice per week while they are growing. This amount can double during extreme heat events. Once you have flowers and there are the beginnings of fruit, keep soil wet 18 inches (46 cm.) down towards roots. If you overhead water, the frequency will be more than if you use a soaker hose or drip system, which directs moisture into the soil and roots. How to sweeten peppers in the garden? The short answer is to be patient. The length of time your fruits take to achieve their sweetest state, red, will depend upon your climate and cultural care. Most take 65 to 75 days to reach full maturity, but many factors can alter that timeline. For the most part, bell peppers don't ripen off the plant. If the pepper is almost red and your season is coming to an end, leave it on the counter in a sunny location for a few days. Often, it will ripen a bit more. In refrigeration, however, the process is stopped. You may also try removing some leaves around fruit on the plant to allow more sunlight in. If you have some peppers that are racing to red, remove any green ones so the plant can focus on finishing those fruits.

If you like food that is spiced so hot your eyes water, ears sweat and tongue is on fire, the Scorpion pepper is for you. The heat is measured in Scoville heat units. Each fruit from this plant has 1.2 million SHU, which translates to a pepper that is more than 230 times hotter than a jalapeno. The common name warns eaters of the sting from the fruits but that doesn't stop thrill seekers and denizens of its native Trinidad.

What are Scorpion Peppers?

The history of the Scorpion pepper begins in Tobago and Trinidad in the district Moruga. Often called the Moruga Scorpion, the species is Capsicum chinense. The Scorpion pepper was developed by Wahid Ogeer and has been studied by the University of the West Indies since the 1990s. The plants thrive in hot weather and the heat amps up when the plant is stressed by drought and hot temperatures. Some growers swear by giving the plants worm castings, believing the levels of heat will intensify. It seems something like a competition to breed hotter and hotter peppers. This competitive notion likely was the beginning history of the Scorpion pepper. The Chile Pepper Institute was started in 1992 in New Mexico and researches peppers. The fruit was deemed the hottest pepper by the Chile Pepper Institute but that fact was disputed by the Guinness World Records folks. They say it is the Carolina Reaper, with a SHU rating of 1.57 million per fruit. Other record holders from the Chile Pepper Institute that have been displaced are Infinity Chili, Naga Viper pepper and the most recent record holder, Bhut Jolokia. The peppers are deeply red, wrinkled little lantern-like fruits, although there is a brown Scorpion with chocolate-purple skin. Scorpion peppers don't seem too bad at the first bite, but the heat builds exponentially the longer it is on the palate. There is a sweet-hot flavor that works well in many Western Indies dishes. It is the sweet notes that are most disarming initially. As they are cooked or masticated, they release the capsaicin, the component in peppers that provide the heat. Caution is advised when working with the peppers. The capsaicin level is so high it can actually burn skin and may affect the mucous membranes.

Growing Scorpion Peppers

Scorpion peppers are recently being cultivated in the United States where they are most commonly made into hot sauces. Growing Scorpion peppers isn't much different from any pepper, but to achieve the high level of spice, a very hot climate is required or greenhouse cultivation in cooler regions. The plants are perennials except in areas where cold fall temperatures kill the plant. In native ranges, the plant's growth slows in cool seasons. Plants grow from seed readily but need 90 days from sowing to maturity. In cooler climates, seeds will need to be started indoors at least 6 weeks before the date of the last frost. Keep plants moderately moist but reduce watering as they begin to fruit. The heat giving capsaicin will increase until you have peppers hot enough to cry over.

From the humble bell to the outrageously hot ghost, peppers come in an exciting and wide range of colors, shapes, and, of course, heat. If you want to try growing peppers that are a little different from your usual crop, check out the Rezha Macedonian pepper, a truly unique specimen covered in tiny horizontal striations.

What is a Rezha Pepper?

As the name implies, these peppers are native to Macedonia and some neighboring Balkan countries. "Rezha" is Macedonian for "engraved," an obvious choice when you see the state of the peppers' skin. Another common local name, "Vezeni," means "embroidered. The underlying skin of these peppers comes in shades of green to red, but the color is more than half obscured by thin, horizontal, raised stripes.

Rezha Macedonian Pepper Information

While heat can vary from pepper to pepper, Rezhas are not, as a rule, particularly hot. The most heat can be found toward the stem, where the seeds are concentrated. The peppers are not usually eaten fresh, mostly because the striations on the skin can make for a granular, slightly unpleasant texture. Instead, cooks tend to roast them whole or split down the middle. The resulting flavor is richer than when the peppers are raw, slightly smoky, and with just a little heat. They lose a little bit of their hotness in the cooking process, but the emergence of the other, sweeter flavors is worth it.

Growing Rezha Macedonian Peppers

Rezha pepper seeds should be planted when all chance of frost has passed, and in areas with a late last frost, starting seeds indoors is preferable. Fruits can start to be harvested after 80 days. As well as being good roasted, these peppers dry well and make for excellent conversation pieces. The peppers are very tasty, but in the end, it's their appearance that is the real showstopper.

Looking for something a tad different in the garden? Why not give the Italian topepo pepper a try? Topepo rosso peppers are Italian pimento peppers with a squat, stout, apple- or tomato-like shape and thick, meaty walls. Ripe topepo rosso peppers start out green, eventually turning bright, deep red with a mild, sweet, slightly zingy flavor.

Italian Topepo Pepper Information

Topepo rosso pepper seeds have been passed down from generation to generation. Because they have been around for more than fifty years, they qualify as heirloom vegetables. Like all heirloom pepper varieties, topepo rosso peppers are open-pollinated and never hybridized.

Also called tomato pepper because of its resemblance by some to a tomato (hence the tomato and pepper combination - topepo), this pepper variety includes yet another interesting moniker of Christmas pepper. While many believe this is due to the fruit's bright red color, the name actually came about as the result of its popularity during the holidays. These peppers are commonly pickled in vinegar for about three months until around Christmas, when they are stuffed and fried as part of a traditional Italian meal.

Growing Topepo Rosso Peppers

Topepo rosso peppers are easy to grow. Purchase small, starter plants at a greenhouse or nursery that specializes in heirloom plants or search for suppliers online. Look for healthy, compact plants and avoid those that already have peppers; they are overly mature and may not survive the transplant. Otherwise, purchase seeds and start topepo rosso seeds indoors a few weeks before the last frost of the season.

When growing Italian sweet peppers, keep the pots or tray warm with heat mats to promote germination. Once the seeds sprout, place the seedlings under grow lights or fluorescent bulbs. Transplant topepo rosso peppers outdoors when the ground is warm and you're sure all danger of frost has passed. The short, compact plants grow well in the ground or in containers. If frosty weather threatens, protect the young plants with row covers or hotcaps. Like all peppers, topepo rosso peppers thrive in sunlight and heat so plant accordingly. Be sure the soil is well-drained. Water moderately.

Topepo rosso peppers are used like any other pepper - stuffed, roasted, fried or incorporated into cooked dishes. They are delicious eaten raw and one pepper is just right for a single serving.

You’ve heard of cherry tomatoes, but how about cherry peppers? What are sweet cherry peppers? They are lovely red peppers just about cherry size. If you are wondering how to grow sweet cherry peppers, read on. We’ll give you cherry pepper facts plus tips on growing a cherry pepper plant.

What Are Sweet Cherry Peppers?

So exactly what are sweet cherry peppers? If you read up on cherry pepper facts, you’ll discover that they are peppers unlike any you’ve seen before. About the size and shape of cherries, cherry peppers are a visual delight. Sweet cherry pepper plants produce these tiny peppers. 

But tiny refers to the size of the fruit, not the flavor. The small veggies offer rich, sweet flavor. The plants themselves grow to about 36 inches (.91 m.) tall and almost as wide. They don’t just produce a few peppers, they bear profusely. The branches are laden with these small, round fruits. 

The young fruits are uniformly green but they ripen to a bright red as they mature. They are perfect for eating straight from the garden, but also serve well for pickling and preserving.

Growing a Cherry Pepper

If you want to know how to grow sweet cherry peppers, the entire process begins with a few sweet cherry pepper plants. In most climates, it’s better to start pepper seeds indoors a few months before the last expected frost. Transplant the seedlings outside a few weeks after the last frost in an area that gets full sun. Start growing a cherry pepper crop in a bed with rich, moist soil rich in organic matter. 

Don’t plant them in a bed where you have grown tomatoes, peppers or eggplant the year before. Set your sweet cherry pepper plants 18 inches (46 cm.) apart in a row. The rows should be spaced 3 feet (.91 m.) apart. Give then regular irrigation. Fruit begins to ripen 73 days after transplant. The plant spreads out almost as wide as it is tall and produces a generous crop.

The pasilla pepper is a mainstay of Mexican cuisine. Popular both fresh and dried, pasilla peppers are very versatile and handy to have in your garden. Keep reading to learn more pasilla bajio information, including how to grow pasilla peppers and how harvest and use them in the kitchen.

Pasilla Bajio Information

What is a pasilla pepper? Also called pasilla bajio, this chili’s name in Spanish literally means “little raisin.” This is a slight misnomer, since the pepper is much bigger than a raisin, usually reaching 6 to 9 inches (15-23 cm.) in length and 1 inch (2.5 cm.) in diameter. It’s the color of the pepper, which turns a very dark brown when it matures, that earns the plant its name. Pasillas can be harvested green and immature to make sauces and salsas. They can also be harvested mature and dried. It’s in this form that they are used, along with ancho and guajillo chiles, to make the classic Mexican mole sauce. As chilies go, pasillas are not particularly hot. They have a Scoville rating of 1,000 to 2,500, which means they are equal to less hot than a mild jalapeno. As they mature and become darker in color, they also get hotter. They mostly have a rich, pleasant, almost berry-like flavor.

How to Grow Pasilla Peppers

Growing pasilla peppers is easy, and very similar to growing any other chili peppers. The plants are not at all cold tolerant, and should not be planted outdoors until all chance of frost has passed. In frost free climates, they can live for years, but in colder climates they can be grown successfully as annuals. They like full sun and rich, well-draining soil. They tend to reach 1.5 feet (50 cm.) in height. If picked mature, the pepper can be eaten fresh or, more commonly, dried in a dehydrator, oven, or other place with good air circulation.

Move over stuffed sweet bell peppers, it’s time to spice things up. Try stuffing Dolmalik Biber peppers instead. What are Dolmalik peppers? Read on to find out about growing Dolmalik peppers, Dolmalik pepper uses, and other Dolmalik chili pepper info.

What are Dolmalik Peppers?

Dolmalik Biber peppers are heirloom ancho type peppers hailing from the country of Turkey where they are often served stuffed with seasoned minced beef as delicious Turkish dolma. The peppers can be anywhere from light green to a reddish brown and have a rich, smoky/sweet flavor with a bit of heat that varies depending upon growing conditions. These peppers are around 2 inches (5 cm.) across and 4 inches (10 cm.) long. The plant itself grows to around 3 feet (just under a meter) in height.

Dolmalik Chili Pepper Info

Dolmalik peppers have several uses. Not only are Dolmalik Biber used as dolma, but when dried and powdered are used to season meat. They are often roasted as well, which brings out their smoky sweet flavor. During the harvest season, these peppers are often cored, and the fruit left to sun dry which concentrates their rich, peppery flavor. Prior to use, they are simply rehydrated in water and then ready to stuff or dice into other dishes. Dolmalik peppers can be grown in USDA zones 3 to 11 in well-draining soil. Space the plants 2 feet (61 cm.) apart in full sun when growing Dolmalik peppers.

Chili peppers are not just useful edibles that can be grown in gardens or containers. Many produce uniquely colored and textured fruits that can be enjoyed purely as ornamental plants. Mulato chili peppers are an important ingredient in mole, enchilada, and other Mexican sauces. The dark brown to black fruits of mulato peppers can also be enjoyed visually, even if chili peppers are too spicy for your palette. Continue reading for tips on growing mulato peppers.

What is a Mulato Pepper?

Ancho, pasilla, and mulato chili peppers are known as the “Holy Trinity” of the classic Mexican sauce mole. Originating from a region of Mexico known as the “Land of the Seven Moles,” mole is a traditional Mexican sauce served for Cinco de Mayo, weddings, and other special occasions; the recipe usually contains ten or more ingredients, which can vary by region. However, it is reported that the use of this “Holy Trinity” of ancho, pasilla, and mulato chili peppers has been used in mole recipes since the Pre-Colombian era. Mulato chili peppers are said to add a smoky flavor that has hints of black licorice to mole and other sauces. The dark chocolate to black colored fruits grow about 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) long and are thicker or fatter than other chili peppers. The longer fruits are allowed to mature on the plant, the hotter the pepper will be. For mole sauce, mulato chili peppers are allowed to slightly over ripen on the plant. They are then roasted, de-seeded, peeled, and puréed.

How to Grow Mulato Pepper Plants

Mulato chili peppers are heirloom peppers that can be grown in containers or gardens just like any peppers. However, they are a rare find in garden centers, so most growers will need to order seeds. Mulato chili pepper seeds take about 76 days to mature. Seeds can be started indoors eight to ten weeks before your regions expected last frost date. Plant seeds ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep in a well-draining, sandy-loam soil. Since young pepper plants can be tender, be sure to harden off seedlings before planting them outdoors. Growing mulato peppers won’t require any additional care than any other pepper plants in the garden. Though peppers are relatively pest free, aphids can sometimes be a problem, as can fungal disorders in excessively humid areas. Mulato chili peppers will produce more fruit in locations or seasons where they experience warm, dry, sunny days and cool, dry nights.

Anaheim may make you think of Disneyland, but it’s equally famous as a popular variety of chili pepper. Anaheim pepper (Capsicum annuum longum 'Anaheim') is a perennial that is easy to grow and spicy to eat. If you are considering Anaheim pepper growing, read on. You’ll find lots of Anaheim pepper information as well as tips for how to grow Anaheim peppers.

Anaheim Pepper Information

Anaheim pepper grows as a perennial and can produce peppers over three years or more. It is an erect plant that grows to 1.5 feet (46 cm.) tall. It is mild rather than mouth-scorching and excellent for cooking and stuffing. For those interested in Anaheim pepper growing, note that the plant is easy to grow. All you need is a basic knowledge of Anaheim pepper care.

How to Grow Anaheim Peppers

Getting informed about the basic growth requirements of the Anaheim will help you produce a healthy, low-maintenance plant. Generally, Anaheim pepper growing is recommended in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 12. Anaheim peppers are tender vegetables, so you’ll need to wait until the soil is warm and freezes have passed to move the seedlings outdoors. If you are planting seeds, start them indoors a month and a half before the last frost date in your area. Don’t plant them too deep, only about 0.2 inches (.05 cm.) deep in a location with full sun. Like many veggies, Anaheim peppers need sun to grow and thrive. According to Anaheim pepper information, the plants prefer sandy loam as soil. Check the acidity of the soil and adjust to a pH of between 7.0 and 8.5. Space the seedlings a couple feet (61 cm.) apart, or a little less in raised beds. Irrigation is an important part of Anaheim pepper care. You need to water the pepper plants regularly during the growing season and keep the soil moist. If the plants don’t get enough water, the fruit can become stunted. On the other hand, take care not to provide too much water, as root rot and other fungal issues can occur. Use a few tablespoons of 5-10-10 fertilizer in a trench around each plant some 4 inches (10 cm.) from the stem.

Using Anaheim Peppers

Once your pepper harvest begins, you’ll need to find different ways of using Anaheim peppers. These peppers are mild enough to be eaten raw, but they are also excellent stuffed. They register between 500 and 2,500 heat units on the Scoville Scale, depending on the soil and sun the plants received. Anaheims are one of the peppers frequently used for making Chili Relleno, a popular Mexican-American specialty. The peppers are roasted and stuffed with cheese, then dipped in egg and fried.

If you’re lucky enough to have eaten Italian frying peppers, you no doubt want to grow your own. Growing your own Italian frying peppers is probably the only way many of us will ever be able to replicate this Italian delicacy, unless you live near a market that specializes in Italian cuisine, of course. Those who have never consumed this delight are wondering, “What are Italian frying peppers?” Read on to find out about Italian peppers for frying and what Italian frying pepper varieties are available.

What are Italian Frying Peppers?

Italian frying peppers are a type of Capsicum annum variably referred to as Cubanelle, Italianelles, or Sweet Italian Long peppers. Unlike many unripe peppers which are bitter in flavor, Italian frying peppers are sweet at every stage from green to yellow to red. In color, they range from bright citron to deep forest green ripening to orange and then red when fully ripe. Italian peppers for frying are common features of Italian cuisine. They are both sweet and slightly spicy, about 6 inches (15 cm.) long and tapered from the stem to the tip. The flesh is thinner than bell peppers and with few seeds, they’re perfect for slicing and frying. Raw, they are crisp and sweet/spicy, but frying them imparts a delicate smoky flavor. There are a number of Italian frying pepper varieties but the most commonly found Italian heirloom seed variety is “Jimmy Nardello.” This variety was donated to Seed Saver Exchange in 1983 by the Nardello family. They were brought over from the Southern Italian coastal town of Ruoti in 1887 by Guiseppe and Angela Nardello. The variety is named after their son, Jimmy.

Growing Italian Frying Peppers

Italian frying peppers take 60 to 70 days to reach maturity. To enjoy an earlier harvest, start seeds indoors eight weeks early. They can grow in most temperate climates with moderate rain and thrive in the heat of the summer. They should be grown in an area with at least six hours of sun per day. To grow Italian frying peppers, sow the seeds about ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep in well-draining potting mix and water in until the soil is moist. Keep the soil moist. Keep the container in an area that is consistently 70 to 75 degrees F. (21-24 C.) or warmer. When the seedlings have two full leaf sets, thin the seedlings by cutting them at soil level. Move the pepper transplants outside when the average nighttime temperatures are at least 55 degrees F. (13 C.). Allow the transplants to acclimate to the outdoor temperature by gradually increasing the time they spend outside over the course of a week. When ready to plant the transplants, select a site that receives full sun. Amend the garden soil with equal parts compost and manure. With a hoe, create planting furrows that are 2 feet (61 cm.) apart. Set the transplants 18 inches (46 cm.) apart in the furrows. Surround the plants with a few inches (8 cm.) of mulch to help retain moisture, retard weeds, and insulate the roots. Set a stake into the ground near the plant and tie the stalk of the plant to the stake loosely with soft twine. Keep the soil moist, at least an inch (2.5 cm.) a week depending upon weather conditions. Fertilize with a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 when blooms begin to form, or spread compost or manure around the base of the plants and water in thoroughly. When the peppers are ready, cut them from the plant. Now all you have to do is decide how to cook them. A simple Italian recipe for these peppers involves frying the peppers in a hot pan seasoned with salt, then finishing them with a sprinkling of parmesan cheese. Buon appetito!

What is an aji panca pepper? Aji peppers are native to the Caribbean, where they were probably grown by the Arawak people many centuries ago. Historians believe they were transported to Ecuador, Chile and Peru from the Caribbean by Spanish explorers. Aji panca is a popular pepper – the second most common of many Peruvian aji peppers. Read on to learn about growing aji panca peppers in your garden.

Aji Panca Chili Information

Aji panca pepper is a deep red or burgundy-brown pepper grown primarily in Peru’s coastal areas. It is a mild pepper with a fruity flavor and very little heat when veins and seeds are removed. You won’t find aji panca peppers in your local supermarket, but you may find dried panca peppers in international markets. When dried, aji panca peppers have a rich, smoky flavor that enhances barbecue sauces, soups, stews and Mexican mole sauces.

How to Grow Aji Panca Chilis

Start aji panca chili seeds indoors, in celled containers or seed trays, eight to 12 weeks before the last frost of the season. Chili pepper plants need plenty of warmth and sunlight. You may need to use a heat mat and fluorescent lights or grow lights to provide the optimum growing conditions. Keep the potting mix slightly moist. Provide a weak solution of a water soluble fertilizer when the peppers get their first true leaves. Transplant the seedlings into individual containers when they’re big enough to handle, then move them outdoors when you’re sure frost danger has passed. Allow at least 18 to 36 inches (45-90 cm.) between plants. Be sure the plants are located in bright sunlight and fertile, well-drained soil. You can also grow aji panca chili peppers in containers, but be sure the pot is large; this pepper can reach heights of 6 feet (1.8 m.).

Aji Panca Chili Pepper Care

Pinch the growing tip of young plants to promote a full, bushier plant and more fruit. Water as needed to keep the soil slightly moist but never soggy. Usually, every second or third day is adequate. Feed aji panca chili peppers at planting time and every month thereafter using a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.

Spring sends many gardeners feverishly scanning seed catalogs to find interesting, tasty vegetables to plant. Growing Italian sweet peppers provides an alternative to bell peppers, which often have a hint of bitterness that can impact the palate. Also, a variety of Capsicum annuum, the benign flavors of Italian sweet peppers translate seamlessly into a wide variety of dishes and are delicious eaten raw. Plus, their bright colors enhance the senses and create a beautiful plate.

What is an Italian Sweet Pepper?

Choosing the right pepper for your garden will often depend upon how you intend to use them. Hot peppers have their place but overpower many recipes. That is where the Italian pepper can excel. What is an Italian sweet pepper? Peppers are actually a fruit and not a vegetable. Italian sweet pepper uses can fill in for many other fruits used in cooking. Their gentle flavor takes on spicy notes, sugary flavors, or adds zest to savory dishes. The seed packet for these delicious fruits will contain Italian sweet pepper information for growing but rarely mentions much about their use and flavor. Ripe fruits are bright red or orange. The peppers are much smaller than a bell, elongated, tapered, and slightly curved with a glossy, waxy skin. The flesh is not quite as crisp as a bell pepper but has definite appeal. These are the peppers that are the heart of a classic sausage and pepper sandwich. Other Italian sweet pepper uses include their ability to stew well, remain firm in stir fries, add color and zing to salads, and make excellent pickles.

Growing Italian Sweet Peppers

For bumper crops, you should start the seeds indoors eight to ten weeks before your last anticipated frost. Sow in flats with just a dusting of soil on top of the seed. Germination can be expected in 8 to 25 days where flats are kept moist and in a warm location. When seedlings have two sets of true leaves, move them to larger pots. To transplant sweet peppers outdoors, gradually harden them off for at least a week. Raised beds are best in soil pH of 5.5 to 6.8. Amend soil with organic material and cultivate to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm.). Space plants 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) apart.

Italian Sweet Pepper Care

These peppers need at least eight hours of sun per day to set fruit. Initially, plants may need row coverings to prevent insect and pest damage. Remove the cover when plants begin to bloom so pollinators can get in and do their work. A top dress of compost can impart essential minerals, conserve moisture, and prevent some weeds. Keep competitive weeds away from the bed, as they steal nutrients and moisture from the plants. Calcium and phosphorus are important nutrients for fruit formation. Most Italian sweet pepper information lists aphids and flea beetles as the primary insect pests. Use organic pest control to keep the fruits safe to eat and minimize chemical toxicity in the vegetable garden.

The cubanelle pepper is a tasty sweet pepper named for the island of Cuba. It is popular in European and Latin American cuisine but is gaining popularity among cooks around the world for its bright color and fast cooking time. Keep reading to learn more about cubanelle pepper care and tips for how to grow a cubanelle pepper plant in your garden.

Cubanelle Pepper Facts

What is a cubanelle pepper? A variety of sweet pepper, the cubanelle is similar in a lot of ways to the ubiquitous bell pepper. Unlike its cousin, however, it has a long, tapered shape that usually reaches 5 to 7 inches (13-18 cm.) in length. It tends to twist and bend as it grows, giving it a unique, rustic appearance. The walls of the fruit are thinner than those of a bell pepper, which means it cooks much more quickly. This makes it a favorite in sautéing and frying recipes, particularly in Italian, Spanish, and Slavic cuisine. The peppers have a sweet and mild flavor. They start in shades of bright yellow to green, and ripen into a striking red. They can be picked and eaten when they are any color. Plants tend to reach 24-30 inches (60-75 cm.) in height. Mature fruits are ready to start being picked 70-80 days after planting.

How to Grow a Cubanelle Pepper Plant

Cubanelle pepper care is very straightforward. In fact, growing cubanelles is a lot like growing bell peppers. The seeds should only be sown in the ground in climates with very long growing seasons. For most gardeners, the seeds should be started indoors 4-5 weeks before the average last frost and only planted out after all chance of frost has passed. The plants like full sun, moderate water, and loamy, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil.

What are poblano peppers? Poblanos are mild chili peppers with just enough zing to make them interesting, but considerably less than the more familiar jalapenos. Growing poblano peppers is easy and poblano uses are nearly unlimited. Read on to learn the basics of growing poblano peppers.

Poblano Pepper Facts

There are a number of poblano uses in the kitchen. Since they’re so sturdy, poblano peppers are ideal for stuffing. You can stuff them with nearly anything you like including cream cheese, seafood, or any combination of beans, rice, and cheese. (Think chili rellenos!) Poblano peppers are also delicious in chili, soups, stews, casseroles, or egg dishes. Really, the sky is the limit. Poblano peppers are frequently dried. In this form, they are known as ancho peppers and are considerably hotter than fresh poblanos.

How to Grow a Poblano Pepper

The following tips on growing poblano peppers in the garden will help ensure a good harvest: Plant poblano pepper seeds indoors eight to twelve weeks before the last average frost date. Keep the seed tray in a warm, well-lit area. The seeds will germinate best with a heat mat and supplemental lighting. Keep the potting mix slightly moist. Seeds germinate in about two weeks. Transplant the seedlings to individual pots when they are about 2 inches (5 cm.) tall. Plant the seedlings in the garden when they’re 5 to 6 inches (13-15 cm.) tall, but harden them off for a couple of weeks first. Nighttime temperatures should be between 60 and 75 degrees F. (15-24 C.). Poblano peppers need full sunlight and rich, well-drained soil that has been amended with compost or well-rotted manure. Fertilize the plants about six weeks after planting using a water-soluble fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist but never soggy. A thin layer of mulch will prevent evaporation and keep weeds in check. Poblano peppers are ready to harvest when they’re 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) long, approximately 65 days after planting seeds.

The popularity of spicy, hot peppers can be demonstrated clearly just by looking down the hot sauce aisle of the market. It’s no wonder with their varied colors, shapes, and heat indexes. Let’s not forget about the various types of sweet pepper varieties, though, each of which makes a delicious contribution to a variety of cuisines. For those folks who prefer peppers that aren’t hot, read on to find out about the different kinds of sweet peppers.

Sweet Bell Pepper Varieties

The pepper that gets used most often is undoubtedly the green bell pepper. It is a common fixture in many dishes and can be found at every supermarket. Mounded near the green bell peppers are the sunrise-hued red, yellow, and orange bell peppers. If you are really lucky, sometimes you will see purple, adding to the cacophony of color in the produce aisle. So, is there a difference between these colored beauties? Not really. All of them are sweet bell types of peppers. You may notice that green bell peppers are usually less expensive than their multi-hued neighbors. This is simply because green bell peppers are picked when they are full sized but not as ripe. As the fruit ripens, it begins to transform from drab green to a kaleidoscope of sunny hues – like red peppers. The green, red, orange, and yellow bell peppers all keep their color when cooked; however, the purple variety is better used fresh, as its color darkens and becomes somewhat muddy looking when cooked.

Other Kinds of Sweet Peppers

The sweet bell pepper types are one way to go for people that like peppers that aren’t hot but are by no means the only option. For those who are a little more adventurous and don’t mind a hint of heat, there are plenty of other options. Sweet cherry peppers, for instance, while they may have a slight bite, are for the most part true to their name. They look like miniature sweet bell peppers and are delicious raw and eaten as a snack, tossed into salads, or pickled. Cubanelle peppers are long, thin peppers that start out a pale green, but when allowed to ripen, darken to a rich red. Italian frying peppers are, as their name suggests, best when they are sliced lengthwise and lightly fried in olive oil. They can be eaten this way or combined with Italian cured meats to make a sandwich. Pimentos are classic red peppers that are most commonly roasted to bring out their sweet flavor. Banana peppers of yellow wax peppers are long, thin, yellow peppers that are commonly pickled. Carmen Italian sweet peppers are sweet and fruity and are deliciously roasted on the grill. Anaheim chilies can be used when green or red and are the most common chili pepper used in the United States. Ancho chili peppers are dried poblano peppers that, when combined with Mulato and Pasilla peppers, form the holy trinity of peppers used to make mole sauces. There are tons of other less easy-to-find, slightly more exotic options for sweet peppers as well. The Aja Panca chili pepper has a sweet, berry-like, slightly smoky flavor and is the second most common pepper in use in Peru. The Dolmalik chili from Turkey has a rich, smoky, sweet flavor that is often used powdered as a dry rub for meat. This is just a taste of what a world traveler might come upon in the search for the best sweet pepper. They might also find these interesting pepper varieties:

• Dous des Landes of France
• Elephant’s ear or Slonovo Uvo from Croatia
• Giant Szegedi of Hungary
• Liebesapfel of Germany

Peppers are some of the most popular plants in veggie gardens and with good reason. Once they get going, they’ll keep pumping out peppers throughout the growing season. So, it can be really heartbreaking when your tiny pepper seedlings don’t make it past their very early stages, flopping over and withering away before they get a chance to grow a single pepper. This problem is called damping off, and it’s a real problem with vegetable seedlings. Keep reading to learn more about what causes damping off in peppers and how to prevent pepper damping off.

Why are Peppers Damping Off?

The main culprit behind pepper damping off is a family of fungi known as Pythium. There are several species that can kill pepper seedlings, but the result tends to be one of two things. Either the seeds don’t emerge at all, or shortly after emergence the seedlings flop over at the soil line. Often, the stem just above the soil line is dark and shriveled. If dug up, the seedling’s roots are usually dark and shriveled too. The highest roots may seem bigger, as the bottom roots are affected first. Sometimes, the seedlings survive to adulthood but remain stunted. While Pythium is more common, damping off in peppers can also be caused by Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia, two other families of fungi.

How to Prevent Damping Off in Peppers

Damping off tends to occur in wet, compacted, poorly draining soil, so the best way to prevent it is to sow your pepper seeds in aerated, well-draining soil or growing medium. If you’re planting outdoors, wait until temperatures are warm to encourage the seeds to germinate and seedlings to grow rapidly and vigorously. If buying transplants, look for ones that are certified disease free. Fungicides containing copper, mefenoxam, and fludioxonil can also be effective.

I’m pretty sure most of you have seen those green Topsy-Turvy tomato bags. It’s a pretty nifty idea, but what if you wanted to grow pepper plants upside down? It seems to me that an upside-down tomato is the same idea as an inverted pepper plant. With the thought of growing peppers upside down, I did a little research on how to grow peppers vertically. Keep reading to find out if and how you can grow peppers upside down.

Can You Grow Peppers Upside Down?

Absolutely, it’s possible to grow inverted pepper plants. Apparently, not every veggie does well upside down, but upside-down pepper plants are a go, probably because they don’t have really deep roots. Really, though, why wouldn’t you try growing peppers upside down? Upside-down gardening is a space saver, lacks pesky weeds, foils pests and fungal disease, doesn’t need staking and, thanks to gravity, delivers water and nutrients easily. How do you grow peppers vertically? Well, you can purchase one of those Topsy-Turvy bags or a copycat version, or you can make your own upside-down container out of all kinds of things – buckets, cat litter containers, heavy duty plastic trash bags, reusable plastic topes, and the list goes on.

How to Grow Peppers Vertically

The container can be as simple and inexpensive as a repurposed container with a hole through the bottom in which you thread the seedling, a coffee filter or newspaper to keep dirt from falling out of the hole, some lightweight soil and a sturdy twine, wire, chain, or even plastic weed eater string. Or, for those engineering, enterprising gardeners, it can be more complex and include pulley systems, built-in water reservoirs, and spiffy liners of landscape fabric or coconut fiber. Buckets are the easiest thing to use, especially if they have lids which will help the upside-down planter retain water. If you have a container without a lid, consider it an opportunity to grow something vertically atop the upside-down peppers, like herbs that will complement the peppers when they’re ready for harvesting. As with upside down tomatoes, add about a 2 inch (5 cm.) hole/opening in the bottom portion of the chosen container and use a coffee filter or newspaper to anchor your plant into place (add a slit for easy installation of the plant). Slowly and gently push your pepper plant through the hole so that it hangs out the bottom with the roots inside the container. You can then begin filling in around the plant roots with potting mix, tamping the soil as you go. Continue filling the container until you reach about an inch (2.5 cm.) or so from its rim. Water thoroughly until it drains out and then hang your inverted pepper plant in a sunny location.

Even with ideal conditions and tender loving care, crops can suddenly be afflicted with a pest or disease. Peppers are no exception, and a common malady is black spots on peppers. If the black spots are only on the peppers, the cause is usually environmental, but if the entire pepper plant is dotted with spots, it may have pepper black spot or other disease.

Why are There Spots on My Peppers?

As mentioned, if there are spots on just the fruit, the cause is probably environmental. Blossom end rot is a possible culprit. This starts as a small brown to tan spot at the bottom end of the pepper that feels soft or leathery to the touch. It is usually caused by inconsistent watering. Be sure that the soil stays moist an inch (2.5 cm.) below the surface. General watering practices indicate an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week but depending on weather or if the pepper is in a pot, additional watering may be needed. Sunscald is another environmental condition that may result in black spots on peppers. Sunscald is just what it sounds like – intense summer heat scalding areas of the fruit that are the most exposed. Use shade cloth or other shading material to cover the pepper plants during peak sun and heat in the afternoon.

Additional Reasons for Pepper Plants with Spots

If the whole pepper plant, not just the fruit, is being peppered by black spots, the culprit is a disease. The disease may be fungal or bacterial. Anthracnose is a fungal disease that causes brown or black spots on fruit, and wet rot (Choaenephora blight) causes black growths on leaves as well as fruit. Generally, with fungal disease, once the plant has it there is no cure and the plant should be discarded, although fungicides can occasionally help alleviate symptoms. In the future, buy disease resistant plants or seeds and avoid watering overhead. Bacterial diseases like bacterial leaf spot not only result in black spots on the leaves but a general distortion or twisting. Clear raised bumps appear on fruit and gradually turn black as the disease progresses. Pepper black spot appears as round to irregularly shaped spots on mature fruit. These spots are not raised but the discoloration continues into the fruit. It is unknown the causal nature of black spot, but it is thought to be physiological. To prevent black spots on pepper plants, always buy disease resistant varieties and treated seeds, water at the base of the plants, and shade them during the hottest part of the day. Also, use row covers to prevent pest infestation, be consistent with irrigation and fertilization, and plant peppers in well-draining soil.

Herbicides are potent weed killers, but if a chemical poisons a weed there is a good chance it will damage other plants as well. Pepper herbicide injury is especially possible if you apply these chemicals in your garden. Pepper plants are sensitive, and damage could ruin your crop, but you can avoid the damage and even save your plants that have been hit by the herbicide.

Can Peppers Be Damaged by Herbicides?

Pepper plants can absolutely be damaged by herbicides. In fact, they are more sensitive to herbicides than many other vegetable plants. When herbicide is applied to control weeds, the vapors or small droplets can drift to parts of the garden where you did not intend to apply the chemical, such as onto your peppers. This is called herbicide drift, and it can cause herbicide drift injuries to healthy plants.

Signs of Pepper Herbicide Damage

Pepper plants damaged by herbicide drift may show several signs of the damage:

• Smaller leaves
• Shortened internodes
• Yellowing on the leaves
• Malformed leaves
• Twisted stems or leaves

If you see these signs in your pepper plants, you may have herbicide damage, but they may also be caused by things like nutrient imbalance, a pest, or other environmental factors. One easy way to determine that herbicide is the culprit is to look at weeds near the pepper plants. If they show similar damage, it is likely from the herbicide.

Preventing Herbicide Drift Injury

Herbicides and peppers are not a good mix, so managing weeds without chemicals is your best option. If you do choose to use an herbicide, do not use it before putting your pepper plants in the ground, and do not use grass or mulch in the garden if it has been contaminated with the herbicide. The chemicals take time to break down and your newly planted peppers are likely to pick up the herbicides in their roots. Apply the herbicide to weeds on a day that is calm, with no wind. If you do have peppers that have herbicide damage, whether or not you can save them depends on the extent of the damage. If it is only mild to moderate, give your plants extra care. Water them regularly, provide adequate fertilizer, and practice careful pest management. The better you can make the conditions for your pepper plants, the more likely they will be to recover and give you a good yield.

Pepper southern blight is a serious and destructive fungal infection that attacks pepper plants at the base. This infection can quickly destroy plants and survives in the soil. Getting rid of the fungus is nearly impossible, so prevention is key, along with using management measures if the infection strikes your garden.

What is Southern Blight of Pepper Plants?

Southern blight does not only affect peppers, but pepper plants are a target of this fungus. Caused by Sclerotium rolfsii, this disease is also known as southern wilt or southern stem rot. Other plants affected by southern blight include:

• Carrots
• Potatoes
• Tomatoes
• Sweet potatoes
• Cantaloupe
• Beans

The fungus attacks plants initially on the stem, right at the soil line. One of the earliest signs of the disease is a small, brown lesion on the stem. You may later see a cottony, white growth around the stem near the ground, but symptoms also show up throughout the plant. Peppers with southern blight have yellowing on the leaves, which will eventually turn brown. Eventually, the disease will cause the pepper plants to wilt. The other signs of the disease are not always easy to notice, so it is typical to identify the problem only once the plants have begun wilting. At this point, the health of the plants may decline rapidly. The infection may also spread to the actual peppers.

Preventing or Managing Southern Blight on Peppers

As with many other fungal infections, preventing pepper southern blight may be achieved by keeping plants dry, spacing them out to allow airflow, and having well-drained soil. The infection thrives in humid and wet conditions. If you do get a southern blight infection in your pepper plants, it can wipe out your crop quickly. Management is a multi-year process that includes crop rotation. If you lose your peppers to southern blight this year, plant a vegetable that is resistant to it next year. Preparing the soil with a fungicide before planting each year can also help. Clean out plant debris thoroughly each year. Infected leaves and parts of plants can transfer the infection to healthy plants later. A natural way to try to kill the fungus that causes southern blight is to heat the soil through a process called solarization. At 122 degrees F. (50 C.) it takes just four to six hours to kill the fungus. You can do this by laying down clear plastic sheets over the soil in the summer. It will heat up the soil and is a practical strategy for small areas, like home gardens. If you get southern blight in your peppers, you may lose all or most of one year’s harvest. With the right steps between now and the next planting time, you can probably manage your garden and keep the infection in check.

Mosaic is a viral disease that affects quality and reduces yield in a wide variety of plants, including sweet and hot peppers. Once infection occurs, there are no cures for mosaic virus on pepper plants, which is spread by pests. Even fungicides are of no use against pepper mosaic virus. Read on to learn more about mosaic virus on pepper plants.

Signs of Mosaic Virus in Peppers

The main signs of pepper plants with mosaic virus are stunted, pale green or leathery leaves, specks or ring spots, and a tell-tale mosaic appearance consisting of dark and light spots or streaks on the foliage – and sometimes the peppers. Other signs of mosaic virus in peppers include curled or wrinkled leaves and stunted plant growth. Peppers with the disease may display blistered or warty areas.

Managing Mosaic Virus on Pepper Plants

Although pepper mosaic is transmitted by aphids, insecticides provide little control because the disease is transmitted quickly and plants are already infected by the time insecticides are applied. However, treating the aphids early in the season can slow spread of disease. Avoid chemical pesticides whenever possible. Usually, insecticidal soap spray or neem oil is effective and much safer for plants and the environment. Discard seedlings that show any signs of pepper mosaic virus. Cover healthy seedlings with mesh to prevent aphid infestation. If that doesn’t work, remove diseased plants as soon as possible. Wash your hands frequently while working in the garden, especially when the weather is damp or the leaves are wet. Also, sanitize garden tools after working with pepper plants, using a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Plant trap crops nearby, which may draw aphids away from your pepper plants. These may include:

• Nasturtium
• Cosmos
• Zinnias
• Lupine
• Dill
• Feverfew
• Mustard

Spray the trap plants with insecticidal soap when you see aphids on the plants. You can also try planting a few aphid-repellant plants around your pepper plants. For example, marigolds, onions and garlic are believed to keep aphids at bay.