What is the most common indoor pest? We’re talking about those tiny flying insects that materialize in flocks around your indoor plant soil… fungus gnats. If you’ve got one, you’ve likely got hundreds, and despite lots of suggestions and tips from “experts” on the internet, they are hard to get rid of.

But it is possible to get rid of these common pests without tossing out your pothos plants. And the solution is neither expensive nor difficult. Is it really a secret? Well if people knew about it, they wouldn’t be complaining about fungus gnats, would they? Get on the short list of people whose houseplants are free of this constant menace. Here’s how.

Fungus Gnat 101

What is a fungus gnat? The term refers to one of those tiny black insects that seem to hover around your houseplants in clouds. They feel a certain proprietary interest since they live there – they were born in the soil of that very houseplant and have no reason to travel far from home.

Outdoors, adult fungus gnats eat composting organic matter in the soil and lay their eggs there. Indoors, their options are limited. They head toward the moist upper soil of houseplants, feed, and lay eggs. Naturally, the young gnats grow up and hang near the houseplant. Fortunately, you don’t have to worry about bites or stings from these insects, but your plants may not be so lucky.

Alternative Fixes

Fungus Gnat Damage

Let’s be fair about this: adult fungal gnats do not harm you or your plants. They are a big fat nuisance, however, and are always unwelcome guests. And the fact that adults don’t bite doesn’t mean that the pests are harmless. It’s the young that do the damage.

While the adult gnats don’t have an expansive lifespan, they propagate rapidly and prolifically. Female gnats can lay some 300 eggs at a time in the moist top layer of the soil. These eggs hatch in about four days and quickly evolve into larvae. It is at this stage that the emerging gnats, still living in the soil, chow down on the roots of your plants. They’ll also eat any decaying organic material, like leaves that fall into the soil.

Once they mature, they stay close to the soil surface, living in it or flying around near it. Pick up your plant and they rise in a cloud.

Keeping Fungus Gnats Out

It’s not easy to block the outdoors/indoors border to keep these gnats out. They are not strong fliers, but they can still fly into your house through open windows and doors. They're attracted to moisture, and especially moist soil. So overwatering your plants or keeping around areas of standing water – whether in the sink or in a plant saucer – can be a siren song.

But it’s also typical for gnats to enter your home as eggs in the soil of new plants. It’s always a good idea to isolate new plants for a week or so when you first get them to be sure they are free and clear. If the eggs are present in the garden store, the bugs will appear in your home.

And don’t forget that gnats like and live in compost. So adding compost to the houseplant soil may also add fungal gnat eggs. Sometimes liquid fertilizer is a better idea.

Finally, bottom watering is often touted as a method of discouraging and disappointing fungal gnats. Since the adults prefer to lay eggs in moist soil at the top of the houseplant container, they will be thwarted. They cannot burrow down to the bottom of the soil, even if that’s the wet section. While this can work for succulents and cactus plants, it’s less effective for thirsty plants that need uniformly moist soil.

The Secret 3-Ingredient Gnat Killer

So let’s get to the gnat killer, with its three magic ingredients. I would venture a guess that you already have everything you need to mix up the magic. This potion requires water, dish soap, and hydrogen peroxide.

When you spray this mixture on adult gnats, the soap makes it stick to their wings and the peroxide kills them.

Obviously, you’ll have to repeat this quickly as new gnats are hatched from the eggs. Female adults can lay eggs from about a week after they are born, so that’s your timeframe. The idea is to kill them before the females lay eggs.

1. Find a glass jar to mix in
2. Add ½ cup of water
3. Add ½ cup of hydrogen peroxide
4. Add 1 tsp of soap
5. Shake it up to mix it
6. Pour it into a sprayer
7. Set out to hunt down the gnats

Variations on a Theme

You can also use a variation of the three-ingredient fungus gnat killer to trap fungus gnats. This recipe substitutes apple cider vinegar for the peroxide. Blend one part vinegar with two parts water, then add a dash of dish soap. Place this mixture in a bowl near an infected house plant.

How does this work? The water is the “bones” of the trap, providing the liquid base. The dish soap breaks the surface tension of the water, preventing gnats from climbing out, while the vinegar is both the lure – it smells like rotting apples – and the poison.

Invasive Japanese beetles impact more than 300 different species of plants, attacking a variety of flowers, trees, vegetables, and grass. Adult beetles skeletonize leaves and their grubs can ruin your lawn. All in all, they’re pests from the beginning of their life cycle to the end.

If adult Japanese beetles or their grubs are plaguing your garden this summer, there are a few different ways to control them. One product that’s been especially popular with shoppers recently is milky spore. Though it is an effective and natural remedy for Japanese beetles, there is another organic option that’s even better.

Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of using milky spore to control Japanese beetles and their grubs, as well as another product that works even better and helps prevent other common garden pests.

What Is Milky Spore?

Milky spore disease, or the Paenibacillus popillae bacterium, was first discovered in the 1930s. By the 1940s, it was available to home gardeners and marketed as a control method for the Japanese beetle grub, a common lawn and garden pest in the Eastern half of the United States.

To use milky spore against lawn grubs, sprinkle the product over your lawn. Japanese beetle grubs then ingest the milky spore, the spores reproduce inside the grubs, then once the grubs die even more milky spore bacteria spread into the soil.

Pros & Cons of Milky Spore

Milky spore only affects Japanese beetle grubs and is not a direct defense against adult pests or other species. The idea is that by treating the grubs over the course of a few years, you decrease not only the grub population but the overall Japanese beetle population.

Milky spore, which you can buy on Amazon, is a safe and natural way to control Japanese beetles. The biggest benefit of this product is that you don’t have to worry about harming pets or people when you use it on your lawn.

One of the obvious negatives, however, is how long it takes to work. It can take up to 3 to 5 years of application and waiting, depending on the size of your yard, to notice an impact on the Japanese beetle population. This can be a turnoff for many gardeners.

Amy Draiss, our Digital Community Manager who managed a retail garden center for over 20 years said, "When I was working at the garden center, I noticed a lot of customers were really intrigued by milky spore—they’d often come in saying they’d read great things about it online. But once they realized it required multiple applications and wasn’t the quick fix they were hoping for, many ended up choosing more conventional grub control products instead.”

Milky spore does persist in the soil for a long time, though. It can last up to 10 to 20 years, making it a long-term solution to Japanese beetle infestations.

Another downside to milky spore is its susceptibility to cold. Soil temperature needs to be between 60° and 70°F (19° and 21°C) for the best results. In colder climates, milky spore can take even longer to spread.

What to Use Instead

If you’re looking for a faster and more effective way to control Japanese beetle grubs as well as other grubs and pests in your yard and garden, then it’s time to try beneficial nematodes.

Nematodes are microscopic worms that infect a variety of grubs, including Japanese beetle grubs, with a bacteria that kills the pest within 48 hours. They are safe for humans, animals, and earthworms, making them a great organic pest control option.

Beneficial nematodes are also highly effective. In field tests, they are shown to be up to 96% effective against Japanese beetle grubs. For the strongest defense against pests, use a dual defense of milky spore and beneficial nematodes together.

You can buy beneficial nematodes on Amazon that help get rid of a combination of pests including Japanese beetles, fleas, fungus gnats, and thrips. If Japanese beetles are your biggest problem, be sure to choose Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (Hb) nematodes.

August is the perfect time to use beneficial nematodes to get rid of Japanese beetles. The soil temperature must be above 60° F (19° C) and pests must be in the grub stage. Apply the nematodes in the evening or on a cloudy or overcast day because light and excessive heat can kill the microscopic worms.

To use beneficial nematodes, first water your lawn or garden, then mix the nematodes with water, then water them into the affected areas of your landscape. If you can’t use the nematodes immediately, store them in the refrigerator for up to 2 or 3 weeks. Then say goodbye to grubs and beetles!

Since the dawn of time, those growing crops have had to battle with insects. It’s an age-old struggle. For a time, humans “solved” pest problems by applying chemical pesticides, but we now know that this came at a high cost to the environment. Today, many gardeners have turned to horticultural oils to control plant pests. What is horticultural oil? It is a highly refined petroleum product with harmful compounds removed.

What is horticultural oil used for? Horticultural oil is highly effective for pests that are on the plants at the time of spraying, covering and suffocating exposed insects or eggs by clogging their breathing tubes. However, even the best horticultural oil has some downsides.

What is Horticultural Oil and What are The Benefits?

Don’t mistake horticultural oil as one type of oil like olive oil. Rather, horticultural oil is a collective term for any type of oil-based product refined for use on plants. What is horticultural oil made of? The active ingredient might be listed as mineral oil or paraffinic oil, an oil product that can contain petroleum distillates; a plant-based oil like neem or soybean, or a fish-based oil.

The oil can be synthetic or organic, depending on how they are made. Essentially they work by blocking the breathing pores of insects, especially soft-bodied insects.

Neem oil foliar spray is made of neem tree seeds. It is a natural pesticide found in the seeds, with azadirachtin being the most active insecticidal ingredient. It is not toxic to birds, mammals or plants. On the other hand, some other horticultural oils can burn. All of these oils are at least slightly toxic to fish.

How to Apply Horticultural Oil to Plants

If you are wondering how to use horticultural oil, refer to the directions on the product label, then mix with water according to the instructions. Spray well for thorough coverage.

Horticultural oil works by smothering eggs and insects. It has no deterrent effect. That means that the insects that are on the plants when they are sprayed are killed, but that’s the sum total effect. It also means that you must cover the plant thoroughly, including all bark and leaf surfaces, upper and lower.

You can apply horticultural oil at different times. The first option is called dormant since the oil is applied while the plant is dormant, before the buds break. The second is called delayed dormant, and the application is made when buds are open at the tip showing a little green leaf tissue. The third option is called summer oil. Here the oil is diluted to be at a lower concentration level than dormant oil, and it is applied when plants are in leaf.

When Should You Not Use Horticultural Oil?

Horticultural oil is a huge environmental improvement over chemical pesticides, but it is not appropriate for every occasion. Some plants are sensitive and can be injured by this type of spray, including spruce trees, redbud, Japanese holly, hickories, maples like red maple and Japanese maple, cedar, some azaleas and smoke tree. Another unfortunate side effect: the oil can remove the blue coloring from the needles of blue-colored evergreens.

In addition, they can be harmful to plants when used in high temperatures or freezing temperatures, on stressed plants or newly installed plants, or within a month of using sulfur products. If you apply the oil to plants that are already in flower, you will likely destroy pollinators.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you grow herbs and other edible plants indoors, you already know that indoor plants aren’t impervious to aphids, spider mites, white flies, mealy bugs and other pests. The bugs can do serious damage to your plants, but the last thing you want is to spray toxic chemicals inside your home. 

You can buy “safe” plant pesticides at any garden center, but when you make your own indoor garden pesticides, you know exactly what substances go into the mix.

Here are four easy insecticides for indoors. All these indoor garden pesticides can be tweaked to suit your needs, so don’t be afraid to do a bit of experimentation. If you aren’t sure how a plant will react, treat a couple of leaves and wait a couple of days before spraying the entire plant. 

Indoor Pesticides for Edible Plants

Here are some tips on making safe plant pesticides:

Garlic spray: Puree about 15 garlic cloves with 2 cups (475 ml.) water. Let the mixture sit overnight, then strain it through cheesecloth or a paper coffee filter into a quart jar. Add a few drops of mild liquid soap and vegetable oil. You can also add about 1 teaspoon (5 ml.) of cayenne pepper, black pepper, or chili pepper. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and spray your indoor edible plants every few days until pests are under control. 

Soap spray: Use a gentle liquid soap, such as castille, as strong soap can burn plant leaves. Mix 2 teaspoons (10 ml.) of the soap with 2 cups (475 ml.) water and pour the solution into a spray bottle. You can also add a few drops of vegetable oil, which helps the spray adhere to the leaves. 

Pepper spray: Puree a small handful of fresh chili peppers with about a cup (250 ml.) of water. Bring the mixture to a boil, then let it cool. Strain the cooled mixture into a spray bottle, then add several drops of mild liquid soap. You can also make pepper spray with 1 tablespoon (15 ml.) of chili powder, 1 quart (1 L.) of water, and several drops of mild liquid soap. 

Essential oil: Certain essential oils make great pesticides for indoor plants. For instance, try rosemary, mint, thyme, basil, sage, eucalyptus, or lavender. Fill a spray bottle with water and mix in a few drops of essential oil.

Pesticides are designed to kill pests. But can insecticides hurt plants too? This is an important question to ask if you rely on chemicals to manage insects and other pests. Insecticide damage to plants is possible and ranges from mild to severe. You can take steps to prevent or minimize this kind of damage while still managing pests in the garden. 

Are Pesticides Bad for Plants? 

Are pesticides bad for plants? They certainly can be. Insecticide plant injury, or actually any kind of chemical plant injury, is known as phytotoxicity. Herbaceous plants are most vulnerable to pesticides. Woody plants tolerate them better, but new fresh growth can be damaged by these chemicals. 

Exactly how and to what extent you harm a plant with a pesticide depends on the type of chemical, the plant, and other factors. Possible signs of insecticide damage to plants include: 

• Leaf burn
• Leaf drop
• Discolored leaves
• Curled leaves
• Abnormal plant growth
• Plant death

How to Prevent Pesticide Plant Injury

For many reasons, from protecting pollinators to protecting the plants in your garden, limiting chemical pesticide use is important. Only use a non-organic, chemical pesticide if you have a real issue that you cannot manage another way. This will prevent a lot of plant damage. 

If you do choose to use a chemical insecticide, follow these rules to prevent or minimize damage to plants: 

• Read the labels and choose the right chemical for the job. Make sure the pesticide actually kills the pest you’re targeting. 
• Read labels on systemic insecticides carefully. These pesticides are taken up by the plant so that when insects feed on them, they die. If using this type of chemical, make sure it is safe for the plant and targets the right pests. 
• Always follow the directions on the pesticide for how to use it, how much to use, and how frequently to use it. 
• Avoid using pesticides on windy, hot days. The wind causes pesticide drift, causing harm to more distant plants. Hot, sunny weather increases the risk that an insecticide will damage a plant. 
• If a target plant is very close to other vulnerable plants, put a barrier around it before spraying. 

Whenever possible, try a different solution. There are many effective controls for pests that do not include chemicals harmful to plants, such as biological controls, horticultural oils, and insecticidal soaps. 

Ever get tired of tossing out those small pieces of bar soap leftover from the bathroom shower or sink? Sure, they’re great for making hand soap, but did you know there are actually a number of uses for bar soap in the garden too – besides just washing off dirt and grime. It’s true.

As someone that feels the need to reuse or upcycle nearly anything I can, bars of soap are no exception. And as a gardener, there’s always a need to use soap in one form or another.

Soap for Garden Pests

Okay, if you garden, you’re no stranger to bug bites. I know I’m not. Anytime I step outside the house, it’s a safe bet that mosquitoes and other pesky blood-sucking bugs will be feasting on me. And this is where that leftover bar soap comes in handy. Simply dampen the soap sliver and rub it across the itchy bug bite for instant relief. And, of course, it also keeps the area clean.

Got a deer problem? What about mice? Gather up those strong-smelling soap shards and place them in a mesh bag or old pantyhose that you can easily hang from trees in the garden, or around its perimeter. Deer tend to avoid areas with fragrant soap. Likewise, you can keep mice away by placing pieces of soap in areas of the garden you want them to steer clear of. Sprinkling soap shavings in garden spaces is also said to help keep a number of insect pests from feeding on your plants.

Making your own insecticidal soap from those old discarded soap slivers is easy too, and saves money. You can simply cut the soap slivers up, or grate a bar of unscented soap, into a saucepan with about 1 quart (1 L.) of water, bringing it to a boil. Stir continuously until the soap is dissolved and pour into a gallon (4 L.) jug, topping off with water. When you’re ready to use it in the garden for aphids, mealybugs, and the like, just mix a tablespoon (15 mL.) of the soap mix in a 1-quart (1 L.) spray bottle and have at it.

Other Garden Uses for Bar Soap

Many gardeners know all about the use of soap for preventing dirty fingernails – just rub the soap under your nails to keep out the dirt and grime. Easy enough. And, of course, at the end of a long gardening day, nothing beats a hot, soapy bath. But bar soap comes in handy for spot cleaning those tough gardening stains too. So I always keep some spare soap slivers in the laundry room for this reason.

Just scrub the soap on the mud or grass stain (and sometimes blood) prior to washing and it should disappear with ease. It can help with stubborn stains on sneakers too. Additionally, if you place a wrapped bar of soap or soap shards in a pair of stinky garden boots or shoes overnight, then you’ll have fresh-smelling footwear the next day.

Bars of soap can prove useful for tools in the garden as well. For instance, you can swipe a bar of soap over the blade of your pruners for easier cutting. Rubbing soap in door or window tracks and wiping clean will help them open and close with ease. This works especially well in the greenhouse where you definitely don’t want your doors or windows sticking.

Your family’s crazy about the fruit from your home orchard and they are not the only ones. Lots of critters also love eating those fruits and other parts of fruit trees. These days gardeners are deterring pests rather than killing them. This is where chili pepper fruit tree spray comes in. Fruit tree pepper spray can be an effective deterrent against insects, squirrels, and even deer that love to munch your trees.

Read on for more information about how you can use hot peppers for fruit trees.

Hot Peppers for Fruit Trees

A chili pepper fruit tree spray can keep hungry bugs and mammals from your orchard. It is considered a deterrent rather than a pesticide because it keeps the critters away from the trees and doesn’t kill them. While many people love hot sauce, few animals do.

The naturally occurring substance that makes the peppers taste hot is called capsaicin, and this is an irritant to most pests. When a rabbit, squirrel, or mouse comes in contact with foliage or fruit doused in hot pepper spray, they stop eating immediately.

Hot Pepper Bug Repellent

Chili pepper fruit tree spray repels animals that might chew or eat your trees and fruits, including squirrels, mice, raccoons, deer, rabbits, voles, birds, and even dogs and cats. What about insects though?

Yes, it also works as a bug repellent. A spray made from hot chili peppers repels bugs that suck the fluids of fruit tree leaves. These include common pests like spider mites, aphids, lace bugs, and leafhoppers.

Remember, though, the pepper spray repels bugs, but it won’t kill off an infestation already in place. If your tree is already under insect attack, you may want to smother the current bugs with horticultural oil sprays first, then use hot pepper bug repellent to prevent new bugs from arriving.

Homemade Chili Pepper Fruit Tree Spray

While fruit tree pepper sprays are available in commerce, you can make your own at a very low cost. Design your recipe with products you have on hand or those that are readily available.

You can use dried ingredients like powdered cayenne pepper, fresh jalapeno, or other hot peppers. Tabasco sauce also works well. Mix any combination of these ingredients with onions or garlic and boil in water for 20 minutes. Strain the mixture when it cools.

If you are including hot peppers, don’t forget to wear rubber gloves. Capsaicin can cause severe skin irritation and will definitely sting your eyes if it gets in them.

There are many ways to deal with pests in the yard or garden. Mosquitoes, in particular, may be handled through a variety of strategies. If you have standing water, larvicides can be a good option in addition to preventative practices. Know the pros and cons before you use larvicides in your garden.

What is Larvicide?

A larvicide is a product that kills insects at the larval stage, when they are active but still immature. You’ll find these products in multiple forms in garden stores and nurseries: briquettes, tablets, granules, pellets, and liquids.

You can use a larvicide to manage mosquitoes which lay eggs in standing water. The larvicide goes directly into water. Mosquito eggs are typically found in buckets of water, gutters, fountains, ponds, puddles that don’t drain quickly, septic tanks, and even on the tops of pool covers that collect water. You don’t have to worry about mosquito eggs in chlorinated water.

How Do Larvicides Work?

Different larvicide treatments work in different ways. Those that contain the spores of the bacterium called Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, or Bti, kill the larvae of flies and mosquitoes only. They do so by acting as a poison in the larvae when ingested. The benefit of Bti larvicides is that they won’t kill predatory beneficial insects.

Another type of larvicide contains methoprene, which is an insect growth regulator. It has a broader spectrum and may kill larvae of all kinds of aquatic insects. It acts by interfering with the molting stage. Aside from being harmful to aquatic insects, neither larvicide is toxic to other animals, pets, or people. They will not harm plants either.

It’s best to try to prevent mosquito formation first. Try using more natural methods to control mosquitoes, such as by draining standing water when possible, cleaning ponds, fountains, and bird baths regularly, and encouraging predators. When those fail or are inadequate, try an appropriate larvicide. Always follow the directions on the product and it shouldn’t cause harm to plants or other wildlife.

If you’ve had problems with garden pests, then you’ve probably heard of permethrin, but what is permethrin exactly? Permethrin is usually used for pests in the garden but may also be used as an insect repellent on clothing and tents. Confused on when and how to use permethrin? Read on to learn about permethrin in the garden.

What is Permethrin?

Permethrin is a synthetic broad-spectrum insecticide classified as one of the oldest organic insecticides. While it is manmade, it resembles naturally occurring chemicals called pyrethroids that are naturally found in chrysanthemums, which have insecticidal properties.

Permethrin kills many different types of insects by paralyzing the nervous system. It works when ingested or through direct contact and kills adults, eggs, and larvae. It lasts up to 12 weeks post application.

When to Use Permethrin

Permethrin may be used on a number of pests on veggies, fruits, nuts, ornamentals, mushrooms, potatoes, and cereal crops in greenhouses, home gardens, and even for termite control. Keep in mind, however, that permethrin does kill bees and fish. Don’t use permethrin in the garden when bees are active or if near a body of water.

Drifting spray can also harm small animals, so be sure to use permethrin for pests on a calm, non-windy day. Wait 24 hours before harvesting after using permethrin in the garden and remember to wash your produce thoroughly prior to use.

How to Use Permethrin

Only use permethrin when you have an insect problem and only on recommended plants. Permethrin is available under many trade names in various incarnations. Always read the manufacturer’s instructions regarding application and safety before use.

Permethrin is more commonly available as spray, dust, emulsion concentrate, and wettable powder formulations. General instructions for spray products are to spray on a calm day and apply to all areas of the plant thoroughly, including the underside of the leaves. Again, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for frequency of application.

Permethrin can irritate eyes and skin so wear goggles, long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt when using in the garden. Do not dump this insecticide in a body of water or on soil near water.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Specific brand names or commercial products or services do not imply endorsement. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Pests in the garden can be a real problem. They eat and infest your plants and bother you and your guests as you try to enjoy the outdoors. There are many solutions to dealing with unwanted insects, and each has benefits and drawbacks. Sticky traps for bugs are one strategy.

It should be noted that, although sticky traps are intended for pesky insects only, they do not discriminate and will end up inadvertently trapping beneficial insects as well as snakes, lizards, and even birds. In fact, many organizations, like the Humane Society, strongly recommend against using these kinds of traps for this reason.

What are Sticky Traps?

Sticky trap pest control means using a glue-based trap to catch and immobilize pests. These types of traps are typically cardboard with a layer of sticky glue. The card may also be folded into a tent shape or laid flat. The tent cover protects the sticky surface from dust and other materials. Some sticky traps also include some type of scent to entice certain pests.

A sticky trap may also be a hanging trap. The type that sits on surfaces really only works for crawling bugs, like spiders or cockroaches. Flying insects can’t be trapped that way. A hanging strip of sticky paper can be used to catch and trap flies, for instance.

When to Use Sticky Traps

Use of sticky traps is normally done when trying to reduce populations of aphids, whiteflies, and thrips in the greenhouse or your home. These traps can monitor insect populations to determine if another pest control strategy is working or to figure out where your biggest pest problems are.

In terms of managing outdoor garden pests, using sticky traps poses issues to wildlife, so other pest control strategies should be used instead. Making the garden more attractive to beneficial insects, for instance, can help keep the numbers of pesky insects down, as many actually feed on them. Ladybugs, for example, love snacking on aphids.

Organic pesticides, like the use of neem oil or insecticidal soap are other options.

Do essential oils stop bugs? Can you deter bugs with essential oils? Both are valid questions and we have answers. Keep reading for more information on using essential oils to deter bugs.

About Essential Oil Bug Repellents

Insect repellents prevent pests from driving us crazy on long hikes or lazy summer evenings, but they serve a more important function; a good bug repellant may also ward off serious insect-borne diseases like Lyme disease and West Nile virus.

The problem is that toxic chemicals in commercial insect repellants may present certain health risks, especially when they build up in the tissues over time. The answer may be essential oil bug repellents, most of which work by releasing vapors that confuse a pest’s ability to detect their host.

However, not all essential oils for insect repellants are created equal. In other words, different essential oil bug repellents deter different bugs.

How to Deter Bugs with Essential Oils

Here are a few suggestions for using essential oils for insect repellents:

• Educate yourself about each essential oil and its effects before using essential oil as a pesticide. Essential oils are highly concentrated and should be used with caution. Some oils may be used undiluted but most are diluted in a base oil. Some essential oils can be toxic if applied improperly, and many may be unsafe when ingested. Some essential oils are phototoxic too.
• Keep essential oils away from children and pets. Never allow young children to apply essential oil bug repellents. Some oils shouldn’t be used on children under three years, and most aren’t safe for infants under two months.
• Combined oils often make effective essential oil bug repellents. Many “recipes” are available online.

Essential Oils for Insect Repellent

• Mosquitoes: Peppermint, clove, citrus, pine, lavender, thyme, geranium, lemongrass, eucalyptus, basil
• Ticks: Cedar, geranium, juniper, rosewood, oregano, grapefruit
• Flies: Geranium, eucalyptus, sandalwood, lemon, rosemary, lavender, tea tree, mint
• Fleas: Citronella, lemongrass, pink, orange, lavender, cedar, tea tree, pennyroyal, clove, peppermint, basil
• Horseflies: Thyme, citronella, eucalyptus
• Bees: Clove, geranium, cedar, citronella, geranium, peppermint, eucalyptus
• Wasps: Lemongrass, geranium, clove, peppermint

While it might be tempting to go ahead and use up those old containers of pesticides, experts say if garden products are more than two years old, they might do more harm than good, or just be ineffective.

Proper storage plays a large part in pesticide (herbicide, fungicide, insecticide, disinfectant, and products used to control rodents) longevity. Garden products should be stored in a dry location free from cold or heat extremes. Even so, products can begin to degrade and it is worthwhile to label these with the date of purchase, using the oldest first. It is also prudent to buy in small amounts that can be used in one season, even if that seems less economical. 

Pesticide and Herbicide Shelf Life

All pesticides have a shelf life, which is the amount of time a product can be stored and still be viable. With proper storage in a dry location free from cold or hot extremes or exposure to direct sunlight, the products should keep well.

Avoid storing liquids where temperatures drop below 40 degrees F. (4 C.). The liquids may freeze, causing glass containers to break. Always store products in their original containers. You should always refer to the product label for more storage recommendations.

Few garden products show an expiration date, but if it has passed, it is probably wise to discard the product according to instructions on the label. When no expiration date is listed, most pesticide manufacturers recommend discarding unused product after two years.

Use the following guidelines to determine if the products’ effectiveness has been compromised and should be safely discarded:

• Excessive clumping noticed in wettable powders, dusts, and granules. Powders will not mix with water.
• Solution separates or sludge forms in oil sprays.
• Nozzles clog in aerosols or propellant dissipates.

Can You Use Old Garden Products?

Expired gardening products most likely have degraded and may have changed form or no longer retain their pesticide attributes. At best, they are ineffective, and at worst, they can leave toxins on your plants which can do damage.

Read the product label for safe disposal recommendations.

What is azadirachtin insecticide? Are azadirachtin and neem oil the same? These are two common questions for gardeners seeking organic or less toxic solutions to pest control. Let’s explore the relationship between neem oil and azadirachtin insecticide in the garden.

Are Azadirachtin and Neem Oil the Same?

Neem oil and azadirachtin aren’t the same, but the two are closely related. Both come from the neem tree, native to India but now grown in warm climates around the world. Both substances are effective for repelling and killing insect pests and also interfere with feeding, mating, and egg laying. Both are safe for humans, wildlife, and the environment when used properly. Bees and other pollinators are also unharmed. However, neem oil and azadirachtin insecticide may be slightly to moderately harmful to fish and aquatic mammals. Neem oil is a mixture of several components, many of which have insecticidal qualities. Azadirachtin, a substance extracted from neem seeds, is the primary insecticidal compound found in neem oil.

Azadirachtin vs. Neem Oil

Azadirachtin has proven to be effective against at least 200 insect species, including common pests such as:

• Mites
• Aphids
• Mealybugs
• Japanese beetles
• Caterpillars
• Thrips
• Whiteflies

Some growers prefer to alternate azadirachtin with other pesticides because doing so decreases the risk that pests will become resistant to frequently used chemical pesticides. Azadirachtin is available in sprays, cakes, water-soluble powder, and as a soil drench. When azadirachtin is extracted from neem oil, the substance left over is known as clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil, commonly known simply as neem oil or neem oil extract. Neem oil extract contains a lower concentration of azadirachtin, and is less effective against insects. However, unlike azadirachtin, neem oil is effective not only for insect control, but is also effective against rust, powdery mildew, sooty mold, and other fungal diseases. Non-insecticidal neem oil is sometimes incorporated into soaps, toothpaste, cosmetics, and medicine. Sources for information: http://gpnmag.com/wp-content/uploads/GPNNov_Dr.Bugs_.pdf http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/24d-captan/azadirachtin-ext.html http://ipm.uconn.edu/documents/raw2/Neem%20Based%20Insecticides/Neem%20Based%20Insecticides.php?aid=152 https://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/neem.html

If you have ever heard the term “systemic pesticide,” you may have wondered what it means. This is actually an important thing to know to prevent accidental hazards in the garden. It’s also important to know how to use a systemic insecticide should such use be warranted.

What is a Systemic Pesticide?

A systemic pesticide is any pesticide that is absorbed into a plant and distributed throughout its tissues, reaching the plant’s stem, leaves, roots, and any fruits or flowers. Systemic pesticides are water-soluble, so they easily move throughout a plant as it absorbs water and transports it to its tissues. Typically, these chemicals are applied to soil and taken up through plants’ roots; less commonly, they are applied to foliage or injected into tree trunks. Systemic insecticides are specifically those that target insects. Some of the most commonly used systemic insecticides are neonicotinoids. These are a group of insecticides that interfere with insect nervous systems. Systemic herbicides (weed killers), fungicides (which target fungi), and nematicides (nematode killers) are also in use.

Are Systemic Pesticides Safe?

Systemic insecticides cannot be washed off a plant after they are absorbed, since they are inside the plant’s tissues, including the parts we eat as fruits or vegetables. Since systemic pesticides are water-soluble, they can easily be washed away from the application site if it rains before plants absorb them. Then they can run off into a neighboring body of water or natural area. One group of systemic insecticides, the neonicotinoids, is suspected of poisoning honeybees and other beneficial insects: these chemicals enter the pollen that bees collect, and they can be found in nectar as well. It is very important for applicators to understand how to use a systemic insecticide properly and to take measures to protect pollinators and other non-target species. In some cases, a systemic pesticide is safer for the environment than a non-systemic pesticide would be. For example, systemic insecticides used for tree pest control, including the emerald ash borer, are injected into the trunk or applied to the soil for uptake by the tree’s roots. Less of the chemical ends up drifting onto other plants or contacting non-target insects than if non-systemic chemicals were sprayed. Also, systemic chemicals are more effective in targeting certain pests, which may allow for less frequent applications or lower volumes than would be required with a non-systemic pesticide. However, non-chemical pest control methods are usually the safest. These include integrated pest management (IPM) strategies and many of the strategies developed for organic farming and gardening. Non-chemical strategies are a better choice for protecting pollinators and other beneficial insects.

Systemic Insecticides in Gardens

Most common insecticides used in home gardens are non-systemic. Most systemics are only approved for use in commercial agriculture or horticulture, while some need to be applied by professionally trained pesticide applicators. Recently, systemic insecticide products have become available for sale to home gardeners in some locations. Extra care is required when using systemic pesticides in a home garden, especially on vegetables and fruits, and it’s best to choose another pest control strategy if possible. If you do use one of these products, be sure to use it only on plants for which it is approved. When using systemic insecticides, it is essential to follow the label instructions regarding when and how to apply.

Many homeowners in regions where Lyme disease is common are concerned about ticks. The deer tick (Ixodes scapularis) is the species that transmits Lyme disease in the eastern and central United States, while the western blacklegged tick (Ixodes pacificus) transmits Lyme disease in the western United States. A bite from an immature tick, called a nymph, is the most common source of Lyme disease infections, but adult ticks can also transmit the disease. If you live near a wooded area where these ticks are present, you may have considered chemical control methods for ticks. Acaricides are one option. Read on to learn more about how to use an acaricide for ticks.

What are Acaricides?

Acaricides are pesticides that kill ticks and mites, closely related groups of invertebrates. They are one part of a strategy for controlling ticks around homes and should be combined with measures to reduce tick habitats. An acaricide for tick control will include active ingredients like permethrin, cyfluthrin, bifenthrin, carbaryl, and pyrethrin. These chemicals are sometimes called acaricide insecticides, but ticks are arachnids, not insects, so this isn’t technically accurate. Some acaricides are available for homeowners to use. Others can only be sold to licensed applicators, so you’ll need to hire a professional to apply them. Diatomaceous earth is a non-chemical alternative that may help to suppress tick populations.

How to Use an Acaricide

There are two main ways to use an acaricide for tick control. First, the acaricide can be applied to a whole area. Second, it can be used to treat the hosts that carry ticks, including rodents and deer. The best time for an area-wide acaricide application is in mid-May through mid-June, when ticks are in the nymphal stage. Another application can be done in the fall to target adult ticks. Acaricides can be applied to tick habitats around a residence including wooded areas and their borders, stone walls, and ornamental gardens. Using acaricides in lawns is only recommended when residential areas are located directly next to woodlands or include wooded sections. To treat deer tick hosts, rodent bait boxes and deer feeding stations can be placed on a property. These devices attract the animals with food or nesting material, then dose them with an acaricide. The process is harmless to the animal and can help suppress tick populations in the area. Permits may be needed, so check with local authorities before setting them up. Other ways to keep ticks away from the home include the following strategies:

• The deer tick mainly feeds on white-tailed deer and on rodents, so reducing the attractiveness of your yard for these critters can also reduce the tick population. Installing a fence around the property can help keep deer out.
• Tall grass, brush, leaf piles, and debris all provide tick habitat, so keep grass mowed and remove brush around the home. Neatly stack wood and consider eliminating stone walls and wood piles. Adding a 3 foot (91 m.) wide strip of mulch or gravel can keep ticks from crossing into the garden from a nearby wooded area.

Whatever measures you are taking, be sure to also check yourself for ticks after enjoying the types of areas where ticks are found.

Most gardeners are used to having to deal with common garden pests, like aphids, whiteflies, or cabbage worms. Treatments for these pests are specifically created not to damage the plants that they are intended to save. Sometimes, though, it’s not our gardens that need pest control, it is our homes. Termite infestations in homes can cause significant damage. Unfortunately, grandma’s special recipe of a little water, mouthwash, and dish soap won’t rid a home of termites like it can rid a garden of aphids. Exterminators must be brought in to fumigate infestations. As you prepare for the extermination date, you may wonder “will fumigation kill plants in my landscape?” Continue reading to learn about protecting plants during fumigation.

Will Fumigation Kill Plants?

When homes are fumigated for termites, exterminators usually place a large tent or tarp over the home. This tent seals off the home so that insect killing gases can then be pumped into the tented area, killing any termites inside. Of course, they can also damage or kill any houseplants inside, so removing these plants prior to tenting is important. Homes usually remain tented for two to three days before it is removed, and these light insecticidal gases float off into the air. Air quality tests will be performed inside the home and then you will be cleared to return, as can your plants. While exterminators can be very good at their job of killing things, they are not landscapers or gardeners, so their job is not to ensure your garden grows. When they place the tent over your home, any foundation plantings that you have are not really their concern. While they usually tuck and secure the bottom of the tent to prevent gases from escaping, vines on the home or low growing foundation plants may find themselves trapped within this tent and exposed to harmful chemicals. In some cases, gases still escape from the termite tents and land on nearby foliage, severely burning it or even killing it.

How to Protect Plants during Fumigation

Exterminators often use sulfuryl fluoride for termite fumigation. Sulfuryl fluoride is a light gas that floats and generally does not run off into soil like other pesticides and damage plant roots. It does not run off into wet soil, as water or moisture create an effective barrier against Sulfuryl fluoride. While plant roots are generally safe from this chemical, it can burn and kill any foliage it comes into contact with. To protect plants during fumigation, it is recommended that you cut back any foliage or branches that grow up near the home’s foundation. To be safe, cut back any plants within 3 feet (1 m.) of the home. This will not only protect foliage from nasty chemical burns, but it will also prevent plants from being broken or trampled as the termite tent is placed and make things a little easier for the exterminators. Also, water the soil around your home very deeply and thoroughly. As stated above, this wet soil will provide a protective barrier between the roots and the insecticidal gases. If you are still doubtful and concerned about the well-being of your plants during fumigation, you can dig them all up and place them in pots or a temporary garden bed 10 feet (3 m.) or more away from the house. Once the fumigation tent is removed and you are cleared to return to your home, you can replant your landscape.

Bacteria and viruses are major plant diseases, decimating crops in both the farming industry and the home garden. Not to mention the hordes of insect pests that seek to feast on these plants too. But there is now hope, as Australian scientists from the University of Queensland have discovered what could ultimately become a “vaccine” of sorts to plants – BioClay. What is BioClay and how can it help save our plants? Read on to learn more.

What is BioClay?

Basically, BioClay is a clay-based RNA spray that turns off certain genes in plants and seems to be highly successful and promising. The spray was developed by the Queensland Alliance for Agriculture and Food Innovation (QAAFI) and the Australian Institute for Bioengineering and Nanotechnology (AIBN). In lab testing, BioClay has been found to be very effective in reducing or eliminating a number of potential plant diseases, and could soon become an environmentally sustainable alternative to chemicals and pesticides. BioClay uses nontoxic, biodegradable clay nanoparticles to deliver RNA as a spray – nothing is genetically modified in the plants.

How Does BioClay Spray Work?

Just like us, plants have their own immune systems. And just like us, vaccines can stimulate the immune system to fight disease. The use of BioClay spray, which contains molecules of double-stranded ribonucleic acid (RNA) that switch off gene expression, helps protect crops from invading pathogens. According to research leader, Neena Mitter, when BioClay is applied to the affected foliage, “the plant ‘thinks’ it is being attacked by a disease or pest insect and responds by protecting itself from the targeted pest or disease.” Essentially, this means once a virus comes into contact with the RNA on the plant, the plant will ultimately kill off the pathogen. The biodegradable clay helps the RNA molecules stick to the plant for up to a month, even in heavy rain. Once it eventually breaks down, there is no harmful residue left behind. Using RNA as a defense against disease is not a new concept. What is new is that no one else has yet been able to make the technique last longer than a few days. That is until now. While the use of RNA has traditionally been used to silence genes in genetic modification, Professor Mitter has stressed that her BioClay process does not genetically modify plants, stating that the use of RNA to silence a gene in the pathogen has nothing to do with the plant itself – “we are just spraying it with RNA from the pathogen.” Not only does BioClay look hopeful as far as plant diseases go, but there are other benefits as well. With just a single spray, BioClay protects plant crops and degrades itself. There’s nothing left in the soil and no harmful chemicals, making it environmentally friendly. Using BioClay crop spray will result in healthier plants, increasing crop yields. And these crops are also residue-free and safe to consume. BioClay crop spray is designed to be target-specific, unlike broad-spectrum pesticides, which damage any other plants they come into contact with. As of yet, BioClay spray for plants isn’t on the market. That said, this remarkable discovery is currently in the works and could be on the market within the next 3-5 years.

While one type of diatomaceous earth is toxic to humans and animals, there is another type that is relatively safe to use. The type you should purchase depends on the intended use. Find out about the advantages and disadvantages of garden grade vs. food grade diatomaceous earth in this article.

Types of Diatomaceous Earth

The two types of diatomaceous earth include food grade and garden grade, also called pool grade. Food grade is the only type that is safe to eat, and you have probably eaten small quantities of diatomaceous earth without realizing it. That’s because it is mixed in with stored grain to prevent the grain from becoming infested with mealworms and other insects. Some people use food grade diatomaceous earth as a natural remedy for a variety of human and pet ailments. It isn’t recommended these days because we have better, safer ways of dealing with health problems. It is also a pretty good flea killer, but remember that dogs and cats groom themselves by licking their fur, so you’ll want to use food grade rather than garden safe diatomaceous earth for any purpose that causes it to come in contact with your pet. Another difference between food grade diatomaceous earth and regular garden grade is that the garden grade may have insecticides and other chemicals mixed in. It’s best to reserve garden or pool grade for outdoor use. In fact, many experts feel that garden grade should only be used for pool filtration and industrial applications. When using any grade of diatomaceous earth, take care not to inhale the dust. When the diatoms are ground in the manufacturing process, the dust that results is nearly pure silica. Inhaling the product can damage the lungs and irritate the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear a mask and gloves to prevent injury. One of the benefits of food grade diatomaceous earth is that it doesn’t contain insecticides. Even so, it does a good job of getting rid of insects indoors and out. Use it to safely and effectively repel and kill silverfish, crickets, fleas, bedbugs, garden snails, and cockroaches.

Are you confused about pheromones? Do you know how they work and how they can help you control insects in the garden? Find out about these amazing, naturally occurring chemicals in this article.

What are Pheromone Traps?

Since insects don’t have organs to detect smells like our noses do, it’s more accurate to think of pheromones as communication chemicals rather than scents. An insect releases the chemicals into the air in hopes that another insect will receive the message through sensors on their antennae. Insects use pheromones to send messages such as the location of territorial boundaries and food sources as well as to announce their availability as a mate. Scientists have isolated the pheromones that attract many of the most destructive garden insects. We can use the pheromones to bait traps, which can then attract and trap the pests. The effectiveness of pheromone traps depends on the species of insect we are trying to control and the way we use the traps. Are pheromone traps safe? Absolutely. In many cases, they can eliminate or reduce the need for toxic chemical sprays. There are three main ways of using pheromone traps in gardens: Perhaps the most effective use of pheromones in the garden is to attract males away from females that are ready to breed. Once we interrupt the breeding cycle, we effectively eliminate the insect pest. Pheromone traps are used as monitors. If an insect is known to periodically visit a certain area, pheromone traps can tell us when they have arrived. The traps can also tell us about the population density so that we’ll know whether an insect is a minor nuisance or a serious threat. The most obvious but, sometimes, the least effective use of pheromone traps for insects is to eliminate large numbers of pests from the garden. Mass trapping is effective against a number of insect pests, but for many more, it can’t do the whole job and needs to be used in conjunction with another pest control method.

Pheromone Trap Information

Are you ready to try pheromone traps in your garden? First, identify your insect. Pheromone traps work against a specific species of insect, such as a Japanese beetle or a codling moth. You won’t find traps that will work against more than a few closely related insects, and most only work on a single species. The pheromone bait inside the trap has a limited period of effectiveness. They seldom last beyond two months. Wait until you can reasonably expect the insect to show up in the garden, and change the bait when it is no longer effective. Read the instructions carefully. You’ll find essential information such as how high and how far apart to hang the lure. The instructions will also help you with timing. Knowing your insect and the way your trap works will increase your success with pheromone traps.

What are nematicides, and what do you need to know about using nematicides in gardens? In simple terms, nematicides are chemicals used to kill nematodes – tiny, parasitic worms that live in water or soil. Although the threadlike critters are microscopic, they can cause major damage when they feed on plant tissue or roots. Looking for more nematicide information? Read on.

Nematicide Information

Using nematicides in gardens, gardeners have access to two common nematicide products. There are numerous formulations within each type.

• Fumigant nematicides are dispersed rapidly as a gas through the spaces in the soil, thus killing the nematodes living within those spaces. Fumigant nematicides are most effective in moist but well-drained soil with relatively low levels of organic material.
• Non-fumigant (non-volatile) nematicides are sold as liquids or granules that are applied to the soil surface or mixed into the top of the soil. The active ingredient is released by irrigation or rainfall, and the effectiveness of the chemicals varies depending on a number of factors, including available moisture, soil structure, soil temperature, and organic material content.

How to Use Nematicides

Most products are approved only for commercial applications, as nematicides are highly toxic and should be used only by trained applicators who understand how to mitigate the risks. The chemicals should never be applied when vegetable crops are nearing harvest. Several newer, safer nematicides are currently under study, including biological products based on a fungus that destroys nematode eggs. However, the effectiveness of the products has yet to be proven. University of Florida IFAS Extension notes that the addition of manure, compost, or another organic material is one nontoxic way to reduce the damage caused by nematodes. By improving soil structure and water retention, organic material creates a healthy environment that increases the chances of plant survival even when nematodes are present. Deep, infrequent watering helps create healthy, nematode-resistant roots. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which produce lush growth and nematode-prone roots. Growing plants in above-ground containers can also reduce damage caused by nematodes. Use only clean potting mix that hasn’t been contaminated by regular garden soil.

Epsom salt (or in other words, hydrated magnesium sulfate crystals) is a naturally occurring mineral with virtually hundreds of uses around the home and garden. Many gardeners swear by this inexpensive, readily available product, but opinions are mixed. Read on to learn more about using Epsom salt as pesticide and how to use Epsom salt for pest control in gardens.

Epsom Salt and Garden Pests

You may be familiar with using Epsom as fertilizer for your garden plants or even your lawn, but what about Epsom salt insect control? Here are a few ideas for using Epsom salt as pesticide: Epsom Salt Solution Insect Control– A mixture of 1 cup (240 ml.) Epsom salt and 5 gallons (19 L.) of water may act as a deterrent to beetles and other garden pests. Mix the solution in a large bucket or other container and then apply the well-dissolved mixture to foliage with a pump sprayer. Many gardeners believe that the solution not only deters pests, but may kill many on contact. Dry Epsom Salt– Sprinkling Epsom salt in a narrow band around plants may be an effective means of slug control, as the scratchy substance abrades the “skin” of the slimy pests. Once the skin is effectively roughed up, the slug dries up and dies. Epsom Salt for Vegetable Bugs– Some popular gardening websites claim that you can safely sprinkle a thin line of dry Epsom salt directly in, or alongside, the row when you plant vegetable seeds. Reapply every couple of weeks to keep pests away from your tender seedlings. As an added bonus, plants may benefit from the boost of magnesium and sulfur. Tomatoes and Epsom Salt Insect Control– Sprinkle Epsom salt around tomato plants every couple of weeks, recommends one gardening site. Apply the substance at a rate of about 1 tablespoon (15 ml.) for every foot (31 cm.) of tomato plant height to keep pests at bay.

What Experts Say about Epsom Salt Pest Control

Master Gardeners at Washington State University Extension cite studies claiming that Epsom salt is of little use against slugs and other garden pests, and that reports of miraculous results are largely myth. WSU gardeners also note that gardeners can overuse Epsom salt, as applying more than the soil can use means that the excess often ends up as a soil and water pollutant. However, University of Nevada Cooperative Extension claims that a shallow bowl of Epsom salt will kill roaches without adding toxic chemicals to the indoor environment. The takeaway is that using Epsom salt as pest control is relatively safe, as long as you use the substance judiciously. Also remember, as with anything in gardening, what works for one person may not necessarily fare well for another, so keep that in mind. While using Epsom salt for vegetable bugs is worth trying, results will vary.

Chemical pesticides are intended to kill pests, but many of them have been found to kill off the bees we rely on for pollination. exposed and some have been prohibited because of dangers to humans. Other types of pesticides rose to take the place of those eliminated, and one synthetic type in particular - neonicotinoids - has become quite popular. These were thought to be safe for beneficial insects like bees, but new evidence suggests that neonic pesticides present a real and present threat to pollinators in your garden.

To learn more about neonicotinoids and bees, read on.

What Are Neonicotinoids?

Neonicotinoid insecticides were developed in the early 90s and became popular. They are chemically related to nicotine and are not toxic when it comes to humans or other mammals. However, they are much more toxic to invertebrates, like insects, than they are to mammals, birds and other higher organisms.

Although they were originally touted as less harmful to nature than older types of pesticides, recent information has shown this to be untrue. These insecticides, now the most widely used class of insecticides in the world, are in fact devastating to the environment and particularly toxic to pollinators, including bees.

Hundreds of studies have established that neonics kill many bees and pollinators around the globe. Between April 2020 and 2021, some 45 percent of honeybee colonies were lost.

The Negatives of Neonicotinoids

As is often the case, the benefits of neonicotinoid pesticides have also been shown to be their most negative elements. Neonics were welcomed by agriculture because they are some of the most deadly pesticides ever formulated when it comes to insects. They are also water soluble, which is appealing since they can be applied to soil for uptake by plant roots.

These neonicotinoid “superpowers” are also the primary “negatives” of the pesticides. The fact that they are so deadly is a problem because they kill most insects without regard to “pest” status, including butterflies, bees, and other pollinators. Thanks to their wide use, neonics have made U.S. agriculture much more harmful to insect life.

The water solubility is also a negative, since the chemicals have found their way into the world’s waterways. Transported to surface water, the neonics are a danger to aquatic invertebrates in rivers and streams.

Neonicotinoids are systemic pesticides. The chemicals are taken up through the roots and absorbed into the plants. The toxins can be present in both pollen and nectar, which means that pollinators - including native bees - ingest them and die. Because the neonics remain present in the plant for a long time, these chemicals can harm pollinators when the plants bloom, even when the initial application is made months earlier.

How to Avoid Neonicotinoids

Only a complete ban of neonics by the EPA will fully protect the country’s pollinators and ecosystems. But to date, this has not happened, nor does it seem likely in the near future.

On the other hand, every gardener can choose not to use neonicotinoids. In fact, you should take every step possible to minimize the use of any toxic insecticides. There are many other options. Use an integrated pest management system to combat pests in the yard instead of automatically turning to pesticides. The push-pull pest control method is growing in popularity.

In addition, you will want to determine whether gardeners know if plants they consider purchasing have already been treated with neonics. Look on the label for a warning and talk to staff at the garden store. But these steps might not work. The safe thing to do is to take off all of a plant’s flower for the first year after you buy them in order to keep the bees safe.

Frequently Asked Questions

Finding safe and effective yard treatments for pests can be a challenge. There are plenty of non-toxic formulas on the market but the problem is that they don't work well. Pyola is a brand name, all-natural formula that is effective on some problem pests. What is Pyola? The active ingredient is pyrethrin, which comes from a flower. Garden sprays line the shelves of nurseries and big box stores. Many of these are broad spectrum, can get into our ground water and pollute it and have a tendency to drift, causing harm in areas that are not targets. If you must use insecticide, it should at least be safe enough to use around your family and not poison the water table. Pyola may be the product for you.

Is Pyola Safe to Use?

Exactly what is Pyola? The active ingredient, pyrethrin, comes from chrysanthemum flowers. Pyola insect spray uses a compound found in dried chrysanthemum flowers and mixes it with canola oil as the surfactant. This allows it to adhere to insects. A sprayer is effective when using Pyola oil spray, as it must directly contact the pests to be effective. The product controls aphids, caterpillars, Colorado potato beetles, leafhoppers, armored scale and many more pests of vegetables and ornamental plants. The product kills on contact and consistent Pyola application can reduce seasonal pest levels because it will also kill eggs and larval insects.

Pyola Garden Use

Pyola is only 5% pyrethrins and the rest is canola oil. It comes as a concentrate and must be mixed with water. The container has instructions for a 1% Pyola application, which requires 2 teaspoons of concentrate with 1 quart of water. For a 2% Pyola insect spray, use 4 teaspoons with 1 quart of water. Shake the mixture well in a sprayer. It has the unfortunate ability to remove the blue color from Spruce trees, so use caution when spraying near these. Some ornamental trees are sensitive to the product and require a 1% solution. Some of these are:

• Cryptomeria
• Japanese Holly
• Chamaecyparis
• Red Cedar
• Smoke Tree

Using Pyola Oil Spray

There are several cautions listed on the bottle. Don't over spray and allow the product to drip on the ground, do not allow children or pets into the area until the spray has dried, and don't apply when it is windy. You can't use it within ten days of a sulfur application, more than ten times per year, or more than three days in a row. It is a non-specific insecticide that has the potential to harm your good bugs too. Word on the web is that it won't harm honey bees, but I would take that with a grain of salt. As with most pesticide products, it is harmful to aquatic life and invertebrates, so use around a pond is unadvised. All in all, Pyola garden use is safer than most of the chemical mixes out on the market, but some caution is also recommended.

Proper disposal of leftover pesticides is as important as correct disposal of prescription drugs. The aim is to prevent misuse, contamination, and promote general safety. Unused and leftover pesticides can sometimes be stored and used at a later time, but occasionally storage, once mixed, renders them un-usable at a future date. These toxic chemicals need to go to a treatment facility or hazardous waste collection site. Even empty containers need to be cleaned and disposed of properly, as they still contain small amounts of residue. Learn how to dispose of pesticides in a responsible manner in order to minimize harm.

Why Do We Need Proper Pesticide Storage and Disposal?

Pesticides contain a toxic brew of chemicals that are intended to kill living creatures. As such, they have the capacity to do harm to unintended victims and may be dangerous to children, pets, wild animals, fish, and invertebrates. Some chemicals can also do harm to a septic system and are carried far in storm drains and underground streams, spreading their dangers as they go. Careful pesticide disposal methods are keys to confining harm and enhancing the environment. Disposing unused pesticides by simply pouring out excess into the drain and then throwing out the container starts a problem that goes through our treatment systems, natural waterways, and ambient environment. The poisons are still active when you dispose of them in this manner, and they can pollute the entire system as they go through. The container may only have one millionth of a percent of chemical left in it, but it is still a toxic chemical for small organisms in this amount. Every little bit that is rinsed into our treatment systems adds up incrementally until the entire structure is contaminated. Overtime, it gets difficult to manage these increasing levels of contamination and the contagion will spill over outside the structure of disposal that humans use into the natural environment.

How to Dispose of Pesticides

Most municipalities have hazardous waste stations. These collection sites will be able to advise you on correct pesticide storage and disposal. They will also take unused pesticides and destroy them for you in a safe manner. This is the easiest manner of disposing unused pesticides. You will need to have the chemicals in their original container with the manufacturer's label of ingredients. Make sure the items are secured carefully in your vehicle and all lids are firmly closed during transport.

Getting Rid of Leftover Pesticides Safely

If your area doesn't have a convenient hazardous waste collection site, you can store it in a cool dark location, tightly closed until you can get to one. If the chemical is gone, you can clean out the container for disposal by following these steps: Rinse the container three times and use the mixture in a sprayer on areas listed as safe on the label. Follow the application precautions and methods. If you absolutely cannot use any of the listed pesticide disposal methods, try asking a neighbor or friend if they have the pests listed on the container and can use up any solution. It is important to your health and the health of the planet that safe means are used when getting rid of leftover pesticides. These methods will protect you and your family as well as the marvelous world in which we live.

It might seem that the best time to use a pesticide is right when you see pesky insects. However, a few rules do apply and timing is also an important issue. The insect has to be at the most effective state of development, and weather can minimize the usefulness of the product or even cause it to get into groundwater and poison streams, affecting entire ecosystems. Let's learn when to apply pesticides and some safe tricks and tips.

When to Apply Pesticides

Responsible pesticide use in gardens is important, regardless of whether you use a chemical form or a natural homemade combatant. The very fact that it is used to kill something means it requires respectful and smart handling. You should always dress protectively and follow the manufacturer's instruction regarding mixing, application rates, and timing. Pesticide application timing for a direct strike relies upon the product catching the insect at the correct stage. Many insects have several instars and go through metamorphosis. They may be more susceptible to the pesticide as nymphs or as larvae. The literature on the product can help you decide at what point of the insect's development it is most effective so you can decide when will be the best time to use a pesticide. Other factors in application would be wind, rain, and proximity to wildlife.

Weather and Pesticide Use in Gardens

Moisture is a conductor for pesticides. It is mixed in concentrates to make a useful spray and it washes pesticides down into plants where secretive insects live. However, it can be dangerous to spray where running streams may carry toxins down to animals and fish and then linger in the water table, poisoning the area permanently. This is why it is important not to apply pesticides just before rain. Pesticides leach through soil to the water table and downstream bodies of water. They can contaminate entire habitats, rendering them useless for the denizens of the area. The best time to use a pesticide is when the soil is moderately dry and no rain is expected, on a cloudy day when temperatures are moderate. Never apply pesticide when there is wind to prevent the chemical from drifting to non-target areas.

Using Pesticides as a Last Resort

Because they are so dangerous and persistent, using pesticides should be restricted. In most cases, unless some huge infestation has eaten half the leaves of a plant, you can handle the issue with household items and manual removal. Many insects can be dissuaded or even killed with a simple at-home spray with water and a few drops of dishwashing concentrate. There are many recipes on the internet for home-brewed bug juice with ingredients like mint, garlic, and citrus. If you must use chemicals in your garden, pay special attention to pesticide application timing and be cautious not only about your own health but also that of others and of wildlife too. Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

It's fun to get on the Internet and research plant varieties and dream about the new things you'll put in your garden, but have you ever really thought about the chemicals you're using there already? Oftentimes, gardeners start using certain formulas because they were recommended by a friend or they claim to be natural or safe for organic gardens without giving them a second thought. Pyrethrum insecticide is one such natural chemical. You may wonder, “Where does pyrethrum come from?”. That answer may surprise you. Read on to learn more about this common garden chemical.

What is Pyrethrum?

Pyrethrum is a chemical extract containing two active compounds, pyrethrin I and pyrethrin II. In these forms, the chemical is directly derived from several different species of chrysanthemum as well as the painted daisy. Anything you find in a garden center has probably been highly refined for garden use. There is another group with a similar name, the pyrethroids, which are derived from pyrethrum, but are in all ways synthetic and not necessarily approved for organic gardens. Natural pyrethrum spray causes death in insects by disrupting the ion channels in their bodies, resulting in an electrical overload in their nervous systems. Although organic, these chemicals are not selective and will kill any insect that comes into contact with them, including beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and bees. Seventy-five percent of the chemical breaks down within 24 days in the soil, but may rapidly degrade when exposed to light or air.

Uses for Pyrethrum

Pyrethrum is a poison regardless of its organic status -- it is very good at killing whatever insect it contacts. Because it breaks down rapidly when exposed to air and light, it can be applied in a way that shields beneficial insects from danger, but gardeners absolutely must use this chemical properly and only apply it during the late evening, night, or very early in the morning, before bees are out foraging. When using pyrethrum, take the same precautions you would with any chemical. Do not overuse this chemical - run-off into water supplies is extremely dangerous to fish and other aquatic species. Parasitoids, such as parasitic wasps, and general insect predators are at a moderate risk from pyrethrum. It does appear to be fairly safe for mammals, based on rat studies, but the long-term exposure risks are unknown.

Contrary to what the cartoons may have you believe, grasshoppers are voracious critters that can ruin an entire garden in just a matter of days. Getting rid of these plant-eating machines is often a tightrope walk between killing the grasshoppers and keeping the food safe for your family. Nosema locustae pest control will solve both of these problems. It's completely organic, doesn't interact with any humans or animals, and will kill off most of the grasshoppers in your garden within one season. Using nosema locustae in the garden is possibly the easiest and safest way to rid your crops of grasshoppers, once and for all.

Nosema Locustae Bait for Gardens

What is nosema locustae and how does it work so well? It's a one-celled organism called a protozoan that can infect and kill only grasshoppers. This microscopic creature is mixed with wheat bran, which the grasshoppers love to eat. The bugs eat the nosema locustae bait and the protozoan infects the stomach of the bug, causing the young ones to die and the older ones to infect the rest. Grasshoppers are cannibals, so the older and tougher individuals that survive the initial infection still carry the bug. When uninfected bugs eat the infected ones, they contract the disease. Even those bugs that survive eat little, move around a lot less and lay fewer eggs, lessening the chance of them infesting other areas of the property. The few eggs they do lay come out already infested, so the chance of a second generation surviving is very low.

How to Use Nomesa Locustae Pest Control

Learning how to use nosema locustae bait is as simple as broadcasting it over your garden and the surrounding area. Spread the bait early in the spring before the baby grasshoppers hatch. The young will eat the bait along with the more mature specimens. This will give the bait the best chance of killing off both current generations of hoppers. If you're an organic grower, this method, along with sensible mowing to remove high grassy fields, is an effective way to remove grasshoppers without having to resort to chemical means. This naturally-occurring organism will kill off grasshoppers without affecting any birds or animals that may use them as food.

When it comes to fighting mosquitoes and black flies, Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis pest control is probably the safest method for property with food crops and frequent human use. Unlike other methods of insect control, BTI has no dangerous chemicals, doesn't interact with any mammals, fish or plants and is targeted directly at just a few insects. Using BTI on plants is in keeping with organic gardening methods, and it degrades quickly, leaving no residue.

Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis Pest Control

Exactly what is Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis? While similar to its counterpart Bacillus thuringiensis, this small organism is a bacterium that affects the stomach lining of mosquitoes, black flies, and fungus gnats rather than that of caterpillars or worms. The larvae of these insects eat the BTI and it kills them before they have a chance to hatch into flying pests. This is a targeted bacterium in that it only affects those three species of insects. It has no effect on humans, pets, wildlife, or even plants. Food crops won't absorb it, and it won't stay in the ground. It's a naturally-occurring organism, so organic gardeners can feel save using this method to control mosquitoes and black flies. BTI insecticide is commonly used for farms and communities, but can be spread over any sized piece of land with pest problems.

Tips for Using BTI on Plants

Before using BTI mosquito and fly control, it's best to remove any sources of the insects themselves. Look for any place that holds standing water that can serve as breeding grounds, such as bird baths, old tires or low depressions in the ground that often hold puddles. Remedy these situations before trying to kill off any remaining pests. This will often take care of the problem within a few days. If the pests persist, you can find BTI formulas in granular and spray form. Whichever way you choose to control pests in your garden, remember that this is a slower-acting process and the insects won't disappear overnight. It takes a while for the bacteria to poison the bugs. Also, BTI breaks down in sunlight in 7 to 14 days, so you'll have to reapply it every two weeks to ensure continued coverage throughout the growing season.

Japanese beetles can strip the foliage from your prized plants in no time. To add insult to injury, their larvae feed on grass roots, leaving ugly and brown dead spots in the lawn. The adult beetles are tough and difficult to kill, but their larvae are susceptible to several biological controls, including milky spore disease. Let's learn more about using milky spore for lawns and gardens to control these grubs.

What is Milky Spore?

Long before horticulturalists coined the terms “integrated pest management” and “biological controls,” the bacterium Paenibacillus papillae, commonly called milky spore, was commercially available to control Japanese beetle larvae, or grub worms. Although it isn't new, it is still considered one of the best methods of control for Japanese beetles. After the larvae eat the bacteria, their body fluids turn milky and they die, releasing more of the bacterial spores into the soil. Japanese beetle larvae are the only organisms known to be susceptible to the disease, and as long as they are present in the soil, the bacterium increases in numbers. The bacteria remain in the soil for two to ten years. When using milky spore for lawns, it can take three years to achieve control of the insect in warm climates, and even longer in cooler areas. You can also use milky spore in vegetable gardens without fear of crop damage or contamination. Ideal soil temperatures for using milky spore are between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.). The best time of year to use the product is fall, when the grubs are feeding aggressively. Although the grubs are in the soil year-round, it only works when they are actively feeding.

How to Apply Milky Spore

Knowing how to apply milky spore is important for effective control. Place a teaspoon (5 ml.) of milky spore powder on the lawn, spacing the applications about 4 feet (1 m.) apart to form a grid. Don't spread or spray the powder. Water it in with a gentle spray from a hose for about 15 minutes. Once the powder is watered in, you can safely mow or walk on the lawn. One application is all it takes. Milky spore won't completely eliminate Japanese beetle grubs from your lawn, but it will keep their numbers below the damage threshold, which is about 10 to 12 grubs per square foot (0.1 sq. m.). Although Japanese beetles can fly in from your neighbor's lawn, they will be few in number. Japanese beetles only feed for two weeks and visiting beetles will be unable to reproduce in your lawn.

Is Milky Spore Safe?

Milky spore disease is specific for Japanese beetles and it won't harm humans, other animals, or plants. It is safe to use on lawn and ornamental plants as well as vegetable gardens. There is no risk of contamination due to runoff into bodies of water and you can use it near wells.

Do you have a problem with birds eating your tender fruit such as grapes, berries, apples, peaches, pears, or citrus? A solution may be an application of Kaolin clay. So, you inquire, “what is Kaolin clay?” Keep reading to learn more about using Kaolin clay on fruit trees and other plants.

What Is Kaolin Clay?

A clue to answer the question “What is Kaolin clay?” is that it is also referred to as “China clay.” Kaolin clay is used in the manufacture of fine porcelain and china and also instrumental in the production of paper, paint, rubber, and heat resistant materials. Arising from the Chinese for Kau-ling or “high ridge” in reference to a hill in China where the pure clay was first mined by Jesuit missionaries around 1700, Kaolin clay uses today extend to Kaolin clay in the garden.

Kaolin Clay in the Garden

The use of Kaolin clay in the garden has been found to control insect pests and disease as well as protecting against sunburn or heat stress and may enhance fruit color too. A natural mineral, Kaolin clay insect control works by creating a barrier film by covering the leaves and fruit with a white powdery film, which adheres and irritates insects, thereby eliminating their scavenging on fruit or leaves. Using Kaolin clay on fruit trees and plants helps repel many types of insects such as grasshoppers, leafrollers, mites, thrips, some moth varieties, psylla, flea beetles, and Japanese beetles. Using Kaolin clay insect control will also reduce the number of damaging birds by leaving them no delicious bugs to munch on and, hopefully, cancelling out the use of bird nets. Kaolin clay for plants can either be obtained from a pottery clay supplier or as a product called Surround WP, which is then mixed with liquid soap and water prior to application.

How to Use Kaolin Clay for Plants

To use Kaolin clay for plants, it must be mixed thoroughly and applied via a sprayer with continuous agitation, spraying the plants liberally. Fruit must be washed prior to eating and Kaolin clay insect control must be applied before the pests arrive. Kaolin clay in the garden can be used up to the day of harvest. The following information will help with mixing Kaolin clay for plants (or follow manufacturer's instructions):

• Mix 1 quart (1 L.) of Kaolin clay (Surround) and 1 tablespoon (15 ml.) liquid soap with 2 gallons (7.5 L.) of water.
• Reapply Kaolin clay for plants every 7 to 21 days for at least four weeks.
• Kaolin clay insect control should occur within three applications as long as sufficient and uniform spray has been achieved.

A nontoxic material, application of Kaolin clay in the garden does not seem to impact honeybee activity or other beneficial insects integral to healthy fruit trees or other food plants.

You've probably read tips on websites and in magazines that recommend using mothballs as rodent and pest repellents. Some people think they are “natural” animal repellents because they are ordinary household products. Read on to find out more about using mothballs to repel pests.

Can I Use Mothballs in the Garden?

Using mothballs to repel pests in the garden presents a danger to children, pets and wildlife that visit your garden. Young children explore their surroundings by putting things in their mouths. Animals might think moth balls are food. Ingesting even a small amount of the toxic chemicals in mothballs can cause serious harm that requires immediate medical or veterinary attention. Mothballs in gardens also present a risk if you breathe the fumes or get the chemicals on your skin or in your eyes. Using mothballs in gardens also causes significant environmental problems. They usually contain either naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene. Both of these chemicals are highly toxic and can get into the soil and groundwater. These mothball hazards may even harm the plants you are trying to protect. Mothballs are insecticides that are controlled by the Environmental Protection Agency. This makes it illegal to use them for any purpose or by any method that isn't specified on the label. Mothballs are labeled only for use in closed containers for the control of clothes moths.

Alternatives to Mothballs

There are a number of ways to eliminate animal pests from the garden without using mothballs. Hazards are minimal when you avoid using chemicals and poisons. Here are some tips on using safe control measures as alternatives to mothballs.

• Traps. The persistent use of traps is a good way to reduce rodent populations and the only effective way to get rid of chipmunks. Use traps that capture animals without harming them and then release them in countryside fields or forests.
• Fences. Although you may not be able to construct rodent-proof fences around your entire property, fencing in your garden area is a good way to get rid of rodents. Use material with openings no more than 2 inches (5 cm.) wide. To keep out gophers, groundhogs and rabbits, build the fence 3 feet (1 m.) high with an additional 6 inches (15 cm.) underground.
• Repellents. You'll find many products at your garden center that claim to repel animals. Some are more effective than others, so be prepared for some trial and error. Well-used clay cat litter sometimes chases off burrowing animals if you pour it directly into the burrow openings. Hot pepper is said to repel squirrels and rabbits.

Insecticidal soap is a safe, non-toxic way to treat your garden and houseplants. This organic method of pest control is a great place to start if you have bugs destroying your plants but don't want to use harsh chemicals that can be detrimental to the environment. Homemade insecticidal soap is also safe to use around children and pets.

These types of pest repellents have been in use for more than 200 years. But as more information has become available about their effectiveness, they’ve gained popularity. Many home gardeners today are trying to avoid adding chemicals to their landscapes that can get into the groundwater and contaminate the ecosystem or harm other beneficial insects. They are an excellent weapon to have in your toolbelt for organic pest control.

You can buy commercial insecticidal soap sprays, like this one from Amazon, or you can make your own. Let’s take a look at how insecticidal soaps work, how and when to use them, and how you can mix up a batch of your own at home.

What Is Insecticidal Soap?

Insecticidal soap, also known as horticultural soap, is a non-toxic and environmentally-friendly natural pesticide. In general, soaps are made from the activity of an alkali substance like sodium or potassium hydroxide on fat. Soap is the broad term for these salts of fatty acids which are then mixed with whale, fish, coconut, corn, veggie, soybean or linseed oil.

Typically, insecticidal soaps contain potassium salts of fatty acids naturally found in fats and animal oils or plant derived oils. This means that insecticidal soaps differ from their more toxic counterparts as most modern soaps use potassium hydroxide, a traditional lye.

Insecticidal soap works best to control soft-bodied pests such as aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. It is most deadly to insects in their young life cycle, especially the nymph stage. It can also help eliminate sooty mold, honeydew, and leaf fungi.

Insecticidal soap kills pests via direct contact and has no systemic action, so it is therefore not useful against chewing insects like caterpillars. It doesn’t work well against flying pests, hard-bodied insects, or eggs either. But horticultural soap’s success against soft-bodied pests has generations’ worth of evidential support, so many modern gardeners are turning to this old-time remedy. Insecticidal soaps are formed from potassium salts of fatty acids.

How Does Insecticidal Soap Work?

Insecticidal soap works by removing the protective membrane from the insect’s body. This waxy layer keeps the bug’s tissues moist. When the layer is removed, the insect dries out. Essentially, the soap disrupts the cell membrane and the cell contents ooze from the membrane, leading to suffocation.

The soap residue breaks down quickly and can be used even on the day of harvest if you need to get rid of pests in the vegetable garden. The key to correct use, to avoid damaging the plant, is to apply the right type of soap in the right concentration.

How to Make Homemade Insecticidal Soap

Many homemade insecticidal soap recipes use dish soap as the active ingredient. Dish soap is a powerful detergent that contains many different components, but the one that kills bugs is sodium lauryl sulfate. Check the label of your dish soap to read the entire list of contents or contact the company before using it as an insecticide.

Dish soaps are not true soaps but rather detergents, which are made of synthetic chemicals specifically designed to strip grease and oil from cookware. Using detergent-based soaps may remove the waxy layer from the surface of your plants’ foliage, opening it up to microbial, viral, and fungal diseases. The loss of this waxy cuticle also causes the plant to lose water and dry out the plant.

Some plants with a thick waxy layer, such as succulents, are more susceptible to horticultural soaps than others. Keep reading for a list of plants that can’t handle insecticidal soaps.

Excessive application of a formula that is too strong can also burn the leaves. You can use dish soap to make a DIY insecticidal soap, it just needs to be diluted to the proper ratio first. DIY insecticidal soaps made from detergents can also affect beneficial insects. So while they clean dirty cutlery well, harsh dish soaps are not organic and not suited for use in an organic garden.

Insecticidal Soap Recipes

Here are a few common and effective insecticidal soap recipes you can make at home. Luckily, insecticidal soap includes many items you may already have in your pantry!

Mix the ingredients together and pour into a handheld sprayer, which can be found at Amazon, for easy application. Just pump the sprayer and let it go to work (no more hand cramps!)

Traditional Insecticidal Soap Recipe

• 2.5 tablespoons (37 ml) vegetable oil
• 2.5 tablespoons (37 ml) pure liquid soap (like Castile soap, which you can get on Amazon)
• 1 gallon (3.8 L) warm water

This is a more traditional recipe that makes an eco-friendly insect spray. Mix together the above ingredients and pour into a spray bottle, then apply to infested plants.

Easy Insecticidal Soap Recipe

• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) mild dish soap (avoid products that say “ultra” or “super”)
• 1 cup (240 ml) of vegetable oil

Dilute the mixture with water prior to application. Combine 1 teaspoon of the soap mixture with 1 cup of water before spraying it on plants. You can apply it once per week as long as your insect problems persist.

All-Around Pest Repellent Recipe

• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) pure liquid soap (like Castile soap)
• 1 quart (1 L) warm water
• 1 teaspoon (5 ml) ground red pepper or garlic
• 1 teaspoon (5 ml) apple cider vinegar

This recipe will not only get rid of pests that are already on your plants, but it will help repel other unwanted intruders as well. Mix together the above ingredients and pour into a spray bottle, then apply to plants.

How to Use Insecticidal Soap

Store-bought horticultural soaps will list the application instructions. It is important to follow them carefully, because even these products have the potential to dry or burn plant leaves in high concentrations.

Some insecticidal soaps are pre-mixed in spray bottles and ready to use as is. Others come in a concentrated formula and you will need to dilute them with the recommended amount of water before use. EPA-approved products contain just 1 to 2 percent soap by volume. This reduces the chance of damaging plants.

It is important to only spray plants that are healthy, that are not under stress other than the insect population, and to avoid spraying when temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C). The best time to spray is early morning, just as the dew is drying. To be most effective, you must apply insecticidal soaps vigilantly and thoroughly. You may need to reapply weekly until the pests are under control.

Warnings When Using Insecticidal Soaps

There are few limitations to insecticidal soaps. Just be sure to thoroughly wet the insects, and be aware that effectiveness may be limited if the soap solution dries or washes away. Phytotoxicity may occur if applied during hot days, so avoid spraying if temperatures are over 90 F (32 C).

Even organic insecticidal soaps can harm beneficial insects or plants that are susceptible to phototoxicity. They are generally safe for humans and animals. However, some people can get a rash from them so it's best to wear gloves when applying.

Since there is no residual activity left behind by insecticidal soaps, they rely on contact to kill pests. If an insect has not come into contact with the spray, it isn't affected. Also insecticidal soaps have no efficacy on insect eggs.

For example, insecticidal soaps work on azalea lace bug nymphs but not their eggs. Further, all stages of the lace bug live on the underside of the leaf, which is often not thoroughly sprayed with insecticidal soap.

Plants That Are Sensitive to Insecticidal Soap

Certain plants have an innate sensitivity to insecticidal soaps, whether they’re store-bought or homemade. Seedlings, young transplants, plants with a new flush of growth, and cuttings that have not fully rooted may develop toxicity symptoms.

Yellow or brown spots on leaves, brown leaf tips, and sunscald are the most common symptoms. Some species of plants are also sensitive to soap formulas. Horse chestnuts, sweet peas, bleeding hearts, mountain ashes, and Japanese maples do not appreciate soap applications. Other sensitive plants include:

• Portulaca
• Cucumber
• Crown of Thorn
• Plums
• Cherries
• Jade
• Impatiens
• Gardenia
• Lantana
• Nasturtium
• River birch
• Schefflera
• Easter lily
• Maidenhair fern
• Red bud
• Dieffenbachia
• Poinsettia
• Palms
• Azalea
• Begonia
• Geranium
• Fuchsia

Shop Insecticidal Soap Essentials

Frequently Asked Questions

Mites are one of the most difficult garden pests to control. These tiny arthropods are closely related to spiders and ticks. When temperatures are high and humidity is low, mite populations grow rapidly. Since they are so tiny and difficult to see, you may not notice them until they are out of control. Sometimes miticides are useful when these pests get out of hand. Keep reading to learn about the types of miticide available, tips for choosing a miticide, and how to use miticide sprays on plants.

What is Miticide?

Miticides are chemical agents used to kill mites. Choosing a miticide can be a daunting task because of the number of products on the market. Read the label carefully to make sure it is safe to use on the plants you intend to treat and in the setting where you plan to use it. Begin with miticide sprays having the least toxic option. You'll find the word “caution,” “warning,” or “danger” on every miticide label. Products labeled caution are the least toxic and those labeled danger carry significant risk. Don't confuse the level of toxicity to humans with the effectiveness against mites. A more toxic product is not necessarily more effective. The product label is the final word on how to use a miticide. It will have complete instructions on how to mix and apply the miticide as well as information about when and how often to spray. Follow the instructions to the letter. Miticides often lose their effectiveness as the mites develop resistance to the product you are using. When this happens, choose types of miticide containing different active ingredients. In addition, clofentezine and hexythiazox should not be used after each other because they have a similar mode of action. The same applies to pyridaben and fenpyroximate.

Tips for Using Miticide Sprays Safely

The following tips will come in handy when you want to know how to use a miticide correctly:

• Don't use miticide on windy days. Wind can carry miticide to undesired areas, and it isn't as effective because less of the product lands on the intended plant.
• Buy only as much miticide as you can use and mix only what you need at one time because it is very difficult to dispose of the remaining product. It is illegal to pour leftover miticide down the drain or onto the soil, and you can't discard containers of miticide in the garbage.
• Pay particular attention to the undersides of leaves where mites like to hide and build their webs. This is particularly important with contact miticides where the product must come in direct contact with the mite to kill it.
• Store all miticides in their original container and out of the reach of children.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

You've likely heard the numerous recommendations for using Bt pest control, or Bacillus thuringiensis, in the home garden. What exactly is this though and how does using Bt in the garden work? Keep reading to learn more about this organic form of pest control.

What is Bacillus Thuringiensis?

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is actually a naturally occurring bacterium, common in some soils, that causes disease in certain insects, most notably leaf and needle feeding caterpillars. It was first discovered in the early 1900's. The French were the first to advocate using Bt in the garden and by the 1960's, Bacillus thuringiensis products were available on the open market and were readily embraced by the organic gardening community. Controlling pests with Bacillus thuringiensis is dependent on its active ingredient, a crystal protein, which paralyzes the digestive system of the insect. The infected insect stops feeding and starves to death. While the original strains of Bt pest control were directed at caterpillars such as tomato hornworms, corn borers or earworms, cabbage loopers, and leaf rollers, new strains have been developed to attack certain flies and mosquitoes. Bacillus thuringiensis products have become an essential weapon in the battle against West Nile Virus. Some field crops, such as corn and cotton, have been genetically altered to contain the gene for the crystal protein in their plant structure. All in all, controlling pests with Bacillus thuringiensis has become a marvelous tool for eliminating certain insect species from both the commercial and home garden. Its use helps reduce the amount of chemical insecticides in our environment and is harmless when eaten by beneficial insects and animals. Study after study has shown that using Bt in the garden is perfectly safe in its application and ingestion by humans.

Controlling Pests with Bacillus Thuringiensis

Now that you have the answer to what is Bacillus thuringiensis, it probably sounds like Bt pest control is the only way to go, but there are a few things you should know about Bacillus thuringiensis products before you begin. First and foremost, read the label. You don't need to use Bt in the garden if you don't have the pests it eliminates. Bacillus thuringiensis products are very specific in the insects they will or won't kill. As with any pesticide -- manmade or natural -- there is always the danger of insects becoming immune and you don't want to add to that problem with overuse. Secondly, Bt will only affect those insects that actually eat it, so spraying your corn crop after the larvae have made their way inside the ear will be of little use. Timing is crucial, so the observant gardener won't try to spray the moths or eggs, only the leaves the larvae will eat. For those specified insects that do ingest the Bt product, be aware that starvation can take days. Many gardeners who have previously applied only chemical pesticides are used to the immediate effects on insect's nervous systems and, therefore, think Bt pest control doesn't work when they see the insects still moving. Bacillus thuringiensis products are highly susceptible to degradation by sunlight, so the best time to spray your garden is early morning or evening. Most of these products adhere to the foliage for less than a week following application and the period shortens with rain or overhead watering. Bt pest control products have a shorter shelf life than most chemical insecticides and should be stored in a cool, dark place. It's best to buy no more than can be used in a single season, although manufacturers generally claim a reduction in effectiveness after two to three years. The timeline for liquid applications is even shorter. If your garden is bothered by any of the susceptible insects, Bt pest control might be something to consider. Controlling pests with Bacillus thuringiensis can be an effective and environmentally friendly way to treat your garden. Knowing about what Bacillus thuringiensis is and how and when it should be used is the key to its success. Note: If you are growing a garden specifically for butterflies, you may wish to avoid using Bacillus thuringiensis. While it poses no harm to adult butterflies, it does target and kill their young -- larvae/caterpillars.

Have you ever heard of diatomaceous earth, also known as DE? Well, if not, prepare to be amazed! The uses for diatomaceous earth in the garden are great. Diatomaceous earth is a truly amazing all-natural product that can help you grow a beautiful and healthy garden.

What is Diatomaceous Earth?

Diatomaceous earth is made from fossilized water plants and is a naturally occurring siliceous sedimentary mineral compound from the remains of algae-like plants called diatoms. The plants have been part of Earth's ecology system dating back to prehistoric times. The chalky deposits the diatoms left are called diatomite. The diatoms are mined and ground up to make a powder that has a look and feel much like talcum powder. 

Diatomaceous earth is a mineral-based pesticide, and its composition is approximately 3 percent magnesium, 5 percent sodium, 2 percent iron, 19 percent calcium, and 33 percent silicon, along with several other trace minerals. When using diatomaceous earth for the garden, it is extremely important to purchase only the “Food Grade” diatomaceous earth and NOT the diatomaceous earth that is and has been used for swimming pool filters for years. 

The diatomaceous earth used in swimming pool filters goes through a different process that changes its makeup to include a higher content of free silica. Even when applying the food grade diatomaceous earth, it is of the utmost importance to wear a dust mask so as not to inhale too much of the diatomaceous earth dust, as the dust can irritate the mucous membranes in your nose and mouth. Once the dust settles, though, it will not pose a problem to you or your pets.

What is Diatomaceous Earth Used for in the Garden?

The uses for diatomaceous earth are many but, in the garden, diatomaceous earth can be used as an insecticide. Diatomaceous earth works to get rid of insects such as:

• Aphids
• Thrips
• Ants
• Mites
• Earwigs
• Bedbugs
• Adult Flea Beetles
• Cockroaches
• Snails
• Slugs

To these insects, diatomaceous earth is a lethal dust with microscopic sharp edges that cut through their protective covering and dries them out. One of the benefits of diatomaceous earth for insect control is that the insects have no way to build up a resistance to it, which can't be said for many chemical control insecticides. Diatomaceous earth will not harm the worms or any of the beneficial microorganisms in the soil.

How to Apply Diatomaceous Earth

Most places where you can purchase diatomaceous earth will have complete directions on the proper application of the product. 

As with any pesticide, be sure to read the label thoroughly and follow the directions thereon! The directions will include how to properly apply the diatomaceous earth (DE) both in the garden and indoors for the control of many insects as well as forming a barrier of sorts against them. 

In the garden diatomaceous earth may be applied as dust with a dust applicator approved for such use; again, it is of the utmost importance to wear a dust mask during application of the diatomaceous earth in this manner and leave the mask on until you have left the dusting area. Keep pets and children clear of the dusting area until the dust has settled. 

When using as a dust application, you will want to cover both the top and underside of all foliage with the dust. If it rains right after the dust application, it will need to be reapplied. A great time to do the dust application is right after a light rain or in the very early morning when the dew is upon the foliage as it helps the dust to stick well to the foliage. 

In my opinion, it is better to apply the product in a wettable form to avoid the airborne dust particles problem. Even then, wearing a dust mask is a garden-smart action to take. For doing the spray application of diatomaceous earth, the mix ratio is usually 1 cup of diatomaceous earth per ½ gallon (236.5 ml. per 2 L.) or 2 cups per gallon (473 ml. per 4 L.) of water.

Keep the mix tank agitated or stir it often to keep the diatomaceous earth powder well mixed with the water. This mix may also be applied as a paint of sorts to trees and some shrubs. This is truly an amazing product of nature for use in our gardens and around our homes.

Don't forget that it is the “Food Grade” of diatomaceous earth that we want for our gardens and home use.

What are pesticides? Why should we pay close attention to pesticide labels? And what are the dangers of pesticides if we don't? Keep reading to learn the answers to these questions about different types of pesticide.

What are Pesticides?

Many people call a spray that controls the bugs in their gardens a pesticide, and that is partially true. However, that spray actually carries the sub-classification as an insecticide that is under the overall heading of pesticides. Just as a product that controls or kills weeds in the garden is at times called a pesticide, it carries the sub-classification as an herbicide. That being said, what would a person call something that controls/kills plant mites? This would carry the sub-classification as a miticide under the overall classification as pesticides. The reason it is called a miticide rather than left under insecticide is due to the fact that these products are, by their formulation, more specific as to what they control. Most miticides will control ticks as well. A product used to control fungi on plants is classified as a fungicide, still under the overall classification of pesticides. Basically, any chemical that we use to control some form of pest is a pesticide. The sub-classifications get more down to the nuts and bolts of things as to what that pesticide actually works to control.

Reading Pesticide Labels

The most important thing you can do before buying any pesticide is to read the pesticide label very well. Check out its toxicity level and find out what personal protection is recommended when applying the type of pesticide you are using. You can usually readily tell the toxicity level of the type of pesticide by watching for certain "signal words" or a graphic on the pesticide label. The toxicity levels on pesticide labels are:

• Class I - Highly Toxic - signal words: Danger, Poison and Skull & Crossbones
• Class II - Moderately Toxic - signal word: Warning
• Class III - Slightly Toxic - signal word: Caution
• Class IV - Toxic - signal word is also: Caution

I cannot stress enough how important it is to read the pesticide label on the product you are using prior to buying the product and again prior to mixing or making application of the product! This will help you avoid the health dangers of pesticides. Another extremely important thing to remember is to water your rosebushes or plants well prior to the application of any insecticide, fungicide or miticide! A well hydrated plant is far less likely to have problems with the pesticide applied. The only exception is concerning the application of Herbicides of course, we want the weed thirsty so it drinks up the herbicide for best performance. Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Pests and fungal infections can be real problems in the garden despite your best efforts. There are plenty of chemical pesticides and fungicides on the market, but for something natural and safer, try neem oil.

We all want to protect the environment, our families, and our food, but many natural chemicals have limited effectiveness. Neem oil insecticide is an exception. Neem oil can safely be used on food, it leaves no dangerous residue in the soil, and effectively reduces or kills pests.

What Is Neem Oil?

A natural pesticide with some fungicidal properties, neem oil is made from the seeds of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica). The primary active insecticidal ingredient in neem oil is azadirachtin. The neem tree is native to South Asia, where it has been used as an insecticide and in soaps, waxes, cosmetics and oils for hundreds of years.

It deters insects from feeding on plants and regulates growth. Rather than killing pests, neem oil stops them from eating and growing. For this reason, it is most effective when targeting insects in their immature stages.

Neem Oil Benefits

Of the many products on the market for managing pests and fungal infections, neem oil has some exceptional benefits. The primary benefit is that it’s non-toxic and natural. While harmful to certain insects, its toxicity in mammals is low. It does not produce a toxic buildup in the environment and is safe for most plants when used as directed. You can use neem oil safely on vegetables.

Neem oil is also a useful repellent for mites and is used to manage over 200 other species of chewing or sucking insects according to product data. It helps manage populations of a variety of pests, including:

• Aphids
• Thrips
• Whiteflies
• Mealybugs
• Spider mites
• Caterpillars
• Nematodes
• Scale
• Whiteflies

Uses of neem oil also include battling fungal infections, but it is less effective for this purpose. It is most often used to manage powdery mildew on plants, but once any fungal infection has set in, controlling it is challenging.

Neem Oil as an Insecticide

As an insecticide, neem oil is pretty effective. It works best when the insects are in immature stages. A coating of oil on foliage can suffocate insects, killing them, but neem mostly works as the plant absorbs and metabolizes it. When insects feed on the plant that has absorbed neem oil, they stop eating. It also interferes with insect hormones, stopping growth, egg laying, and other life cycle behaviors. While neem can be effective against pests, it is not a quick fix. It may take several applications to see results.

Neem Oil as a Fungicide

Neem oil can be used as a fungicide as well, but its effectiveness is limited. It may help control infections from fungus, mildews and rust by preventing spores from germinating and penetrating plant tissue. It will not cure a plant that is already infected with a fungus, but it can help slow or prevent the spread of infection to healthy tissue. It works best on powdery mildew. It is also deemed helpful for other issues such as:

• Root rot
• Black spot
• Sooty mold

How to Use Neem Oil on Plants

Neem oil foliar spray has been shown to be most useful when applied to young plant growth. The oil has a half-life of 3 to 22 days in soil, but only 45 minutes to four days in water. It is nearly non-toxic to birds, fish, bees, and wildlife, and studies have shown no cancer or other disease-causing results from its use.

Apply neem oil at a time of day when bees aren’t typically out foraging for pollen, such as night time or early in the morning. Insects would have to eat the treated plant, so neem oil is very safe to use if it’s applied properly.

You can find neem oil spray in most garden centers, either in a concentrated form that must be diluted with water or as a ready-to-spray product. You can also get neem oil spray on Amazon, such as this Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray, which is an insecticide, fungicide, and miticide all-in-one. Thoroughly cover leaves, including their undersides and stems. Because the plant absorbs the neem oil, you don’t have to worry about rain washing it away.

While neem oil is largely safe, some plants might be sensitive to it. Before covering a plant entirely in neem oil, test a small area and see if it causes damage. To reduce the risk of damage, avoid using neem oil in bright sunlight or when it is very hot. It’s better to apply it in the evening to give the plant time to absorb it. Don’t use it on plants you have just transplanted or are under stress.

How Does Neem Oil Work?

In many plants, neem oil insecticide works as a systemic when applied as a soil drench. This means it is absorbed by the plant and distributed throughout the tissue. Once the product is in the plant’s vascular system, insects take it in during feeding.

The compound causes insects to reduce or cease feeding, can prevent larvae from maturing, reduces or interrupts mating behavior, and, in some cases, the oil coats the breathing holes of insects and kills them.

Apply neem oil only in indirect light or in the evening to avoid foliage burning and to allow the treatment to seep into the plant. Also, do not use neem oil in extreme temperatures, either too hot or too cold. Avoid application to plants that are stressed due to drought or overwatering.

Using neem oil insecticide about once a week will help kill pests and keep fungal issues at bay. Apply as you would other oil-based sprays, making sure the leaves are completely coated, especially where the pest or fungal problem is the worst.

Is Neem Oil Safe for Dogs and People?

Neem oil is generally safe for people, pets, and most wildlife. Because pollinators and other beneficial insects do not chew plants, they should not be affected by neem on plants. Neem oil does not stay long in the environment, so its impact is minimal.

Although considered safe, you should still take precautions when using neem oil. Spray neem oil on plants only as directed and wear gloves. It can potentially irritate your eyes or skin. Children may be more sensitive to azadirachtin. Anyone pregnant or trying to become pregnant should avoid neem oil entirely. The EPA deems neem oil to be generally recognized as safe, but you should always wash your produce in clean, potable water before consumption.

As with any pesticide, use neem oil as a last resort. Prevention is always best. Use healthy plants and practice good garden management to minimize pest issues and fungal infections.

As an organic gardener, you may know the difficulty of finding a good organic insecticide. You may ask yourself, "How do I make my own insecticide?" Making white oil to use as an insecticide is easy and inexpensive. Let's take a look at how to make white oil and why it works as an insecticide.

How to Make White Oil

So you're likely asking, "How do I make my own insecticide?" It's actually quite simple. While there are a number of homemade insecticide recipes to choose from, this popular white oil recipe for do-it-yourselfers seems to be one of the easiest:

• 1 cup (250 ml.) vegetable or white mineral oil
• 1/4 cup (60 ml.) dish soap (without bleach) or Murphy's oil soap

Mix the above ingredients in a jar, shaking well (should turn white color upon mixing). Note: This is your concentrate and needs to be diluted prior to use -- using about 1 tablespoon (15 ml.) per 4 cups (about 1 L.) of water. You can store the white oil concentrate for about three months in a sealed container or jar. Once diluted, you can use a spray bottle for easy application. Apply to affected plants liberally, especially on the backside of plant leaves as this is where many pests tend to hide or lay eggs.

Why Does White Oil Work?

White oil works by coating soft body insects, like aphids and mites, in oil. The soap helps the oil stick to the insect while the water loosens the mixture enough to be sprayed on easily. When combined, these two ingredients work to suffocate the insects. Regular applications may be necessary to help protect your plants from pests. Now that you know how to make white oil, you can use this organic insecticide to keep your garden free of pests.

BEFORE USING ANY HOMEMADE MIX: It should be noted that anytime you use a home mix, you should always test it out on a small portion of the plant first to make sure it will not harm the plant. Also, avoid using any bleach-based soaps or detergents on plants since this can be harmful to them. In addition, it is important that a home mixture never be applied to any plant on a hot or brightly sunny day, as this will quickly lead to burning of the plant and its ultimate demise.

There is no way to get around having insects in the garden; however, you can successfully scare the bad bugs away by incorporating useful plants into your landscape. Many plants can serve as bug repellants. Keep reading to learn more about repelling bad bugs with plants.

Plants That Deter Insect Pests

A number of herbs, flowers, and even vegetable plants can make ideal repellents for insect pests. Here are some of the more commonly grown:

• Chives and leeks deter the carrot fly and can also improve the overall health of garden plants.
• Garlic helps to repel nasty aphids and Japanese beetles. When planted alongside onions, this plant also deters moles and mice.
• Basil shoos away flies and mosquitoes; try setting some around the porch or other outdoor areas.
• Borage and tomato plants will fend off tomato hornworms, and marigolds ward off a number of harmful insects, including nematodes and Japanese beetles.
• Incorporating some mint and rosemary around the garden will discourage the egg-laying of many insects, such as the cabbage moth. To keep ants away, try planting some mint and tansy around the house.
• Tansy is also good for keeping Japanese beetles and mosquitoes at bay.
• Believe it or not, spinach is actually a deterrent for slugs, and thyme is good for repelling cabbageworms.
• Pyrethrum painted daisies planted anywhere within the landscape will help with aphids.

Implementing plants that are labeled as pest-resistant in and around the garden is also a good way to ward off harmful insects. For example, planting resistant varieties of azalea or rhododendron will deter insects that are normally destructive to these shrubs, such as weevils.

Using pesticides in the garden may not be the best solution for the environment, but sometimes it's the most effective way to take care of troublesome pest problems that may crop up in the garden. Pesticides are made up of chemicals, and the effects of pesticide use may be harmful not only to the environment but to us as well. For this reason, it's important to learn about safe pesticide usage. The proper use of pesticides, should you decide to go this route, can alleviate many safety concerns.

Types of Garden Pesticide

There are many different types of garden pesticide serving many different needs. These include insecticides, fungicides, and herbicides. There are botanical forms of pesticide that are available as well. These are generally derived from plants and considered 'organic' by some, however, these may still be toxic to beneficial insects and wildlife.

Using Pesticides in the Garden

Typically, the first response to pests in the lawn or garden is to reach for and apply pesticide, regardless of the type or even its purpose. If it says pesticide, it's assumed that using it in full force will rid the lawn and garden of any and all pests. Unfortunately, this can lead to unnecessary applications and overuse. Since pesticides are toxic, they should be used carefully, and if at all possible, sparingly. There are other pest control methods that you can and should attempt before grabbing that pesticide spray.

Safe Pesticide Usage

If you familiarize yourself with the plants in your garden and the pests that affect them, you'll have a more roundabout idea as to what types of pests you may be dealing with in order to properly eradicate them. It also helps to check your garden frequently for any possible problems and then carefully determine whether any treatment is necessary. If so, try using methods that are more natural first. Garden pesticides should always be your last resort. Once all other control methods have failed or have been deemed impractical, go ahead and try safe pesticide usage, selecting one that is specifically designed for your particular situation and target pest. To avoid adverse effects of pestice use, always read and follow the directions for proper application and apply only the amount specified. You should also wear protective clothing, especially gloves, as garden pesticides can easily be absorbed through the skin and contaminated clothing, which should be washed separately as well. The proper use of pesticides includes avoiding pesticides in the garden during periods of rainfall or in windy conditions. This could lead to possible contamination of other areas, such as your neighbor's lawn or garden. Likewise, applying pesticide to barren or eroded areas and near water sources, such as ponds or streams, should also be avoided. Pests of some kind will always be a part of the gardening experience; in fact, it's inevitable. However, the use of pesticides may not always be necessary, and if they are, they should be used only as a last resort, using them safely and responsibly.