Water wick propagation is a unique take on the traditional plant propagation technique of air layering. Air layering has been around long enough that most propagators know the routine: wound a node, pack it with damp sphagnum moss, wrap it in plastic, wait. It works on a wide range of woody and semi-woody plants.

The wick method takes the same underlying principle as air layering — keeping a node moist while it’s still drawing energy from the parent — and removes the part most people find fiddly, which is maintaining consistent moisture inside the wrap.

It’s one of the more interesting variations among the types of plant propagation worth knowing about, and the setup is genuinely simple. A cotton wick runs from a small water reservoir up to the node, delivering moisture through capillary action continuously. The plant does the waiting; the wick does the work. Like any propagation method, constant moisture still needs some airflow—if the area stays too wet without oxygen, the wound can rot instead of rooting.

How Water Wick Propagation Works

Capillary action is what makes wicking work—water moves through a fibrous material from a wet end toward a dry one without any pump or pressure required. A cotton wick, a strip of flannel, or even a twisted length of cotton rope will pull water upward from a small jar or bottle and deliver it steadily to whatever it’s in contact with. In propagation, that contact point is a prepared node on a branch that’s still attached to the parent plant.

The node needs a little preparation first. Scraping away a small band of bark about an inch (2.5cm) wide to expose the cambium layer, or making two shallow cuts around the stem, gives roots something to emerge from. The wick gets wrapped snugly around that wounded area and held in place with a loose tie—not so tight it cuts into the stem, but tight enough to stay in contact. The other end drops into a water container positioned nearby. From that point, moisture delivery is automatic.

Setting It Up

The wick material matters more than expected, as well. Cotton works well because it wicks consistently and is less prone to stagnation than heavier materials that can rot a wound before roots have a chance to form. A strip of old cotton t-shirt, a length of cotton yarn, or a purpose-made plant watering wick all do the job. Cotton plant watering wicks from Amazon are inexpensive and sized for exactly this kind of use. Some synthetic materials tend to wick less reliably and are worth skipping. Others like nylon/poly wicks can actually wick better in some setups.

The container just needs enough volume to stay topped up between checks—a small jar works fine for a single wick. Position it close enough that the wick reaches the node without pulling taut; tension can cause it to shift over time. Wrapping the assembly loosely with clear plastic film helps retain humidity around the wound without fully sealing it, which keeps conditions closer to what roots prefer without the full sealed-wrap setup of traditional air layering.

Which Plants Work With This Method

The wick method is most reliable on plants that already respond well to standard air layering—pothos, philodendrons, rubber plants, monsteras, and most woody houseplants are good candidates. Outdoor shrubs and trees that air layer readily, like magnolias, rhododendrons, and azaleas, are also worth trying. The common thread is that these plants form roots at nodes without much resistance when moisture and a little wounding are combined. Plants that tend to be reluctant rooters through other methods aren’t likely to behave differently here.

Results vary by species and season. Roots tend to develop faster during active growth in spring and early summer than in fall or winter. Once roots are visible through the plastic wrap—or a gentle tug on the wick meets resistance—the branch can be cut below the rooted node and potted up into a well-draining mix. It’s not a method that works on everything, but for the right plant at the right time, the wick runs the operation for you.

Honest Assessment: Does It Actually Work?

It does, with some caveats. The wick method is more consistent than moss wrapping in one specific way: it eliminates the dry-out problem. Sphagnum moss that isn’t checked regularly can drop below the moisture threshold roots need, stalling the process or killing it outright. A wick connected to a water source doesn’t have that failure mode. As long as the reservoir stays filled, the node stays moist. That autopilot quality is the real advantage, and it makes the method genuinely useful for anyone who tends to forget about projects mid-process.

The trade-off is that it’s slightly less controlled than a sealed moss wrap, which holds humidity more precisely around the wound. In very dry environments or during hot weather, evaporation from an unwrapped wick can outpace capillary delivery. The plastic wrap layer helps with this, but it’s worth knowing the limitation exists.

Overall, the wick method is a legitimate propagation tool—not a gimmick. It just works best when the conditions are reasonable and the plant is already inclined to cooperate. The wick handles the moisture. The rest is up to the plant.

Learn all about this soft, velvety houseplant called philodendron micans. It’s easy to grow, but not entirely care-free. Like other special plants, it has specific needs in order to thrive. It’s worth finding the right balance and providing a way for this fascinating philodendron variety to climb.

Philodendron Micans Care

Light

The philodendron micans bears the common name of “velvet leaf philodendron,” thanks to the color and texture of their foliage. To maintain that look, these houseplants need a site with bright, indirect sun. Don’t let the sun’s rays touch the leaves or they will scorch.

Water

Here’s another plant that needs a careful balance when it comes to irrigation. Too little and the plant will wilt; too much and the roots will rot. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry and make sure the soil drains well and the container has drain holes.

Temperature & Humidity

The velvet philodendron is a tropical plant that requires warmth and humidity. Ordinary household temperatures are fine but avoid sudden temperature changes. When it comes to humidity, 50% is best, although the velvet philodendron will adapt to your home’s humidity levels. For best results, increase the humidity by any of the usual means, either adding a sauce with pebbles and water or a humidifier.

Soil

The soil must drain well for the plant to flourish. Slightly acidic, well-draining loam is best.

Use a water-soluble balanced fertilizer during the growing season. Apply every month or so, but reduce or stop fertilization after summer.

Problems, Pests, & Diseases

Philodendron micans can be attacked by the same common insects that you’ll find on other philodendrons, including aphids, scale, mealy-bugs, and spider mites. First, try removing the pests with a stream of water. Scales can be scraped off with a fingernail. Alternatively, apply Neem oil to get rid of them.

Root rot and leaf spot are fungal diseases. It’s easier to prevent these than to cure them. Overwatering is almost always the cause. If root rot hits, you’ll want to repot immediately in clean potting soil after trimming off the soft or rotting roots. For leaf spot trim off the affected leaves and reduce watering. If all else fails, use a fungicide.

Insufficient light will lead to leggy plants or loss of leaf variegation. Direct light causes scorching. Insufficient water will lead to wilting leaves. Too much water leads to fungal issues.

Pruning

Fertilizer

Serious pruning is not required for the plant’s well-being. However, feel free to trim the velvet philodendron to keep the shape looking attractive and/or remove dead foliage.

Propagation

Like other philodendrons, the velvet leaf propagates easily by rooting cuttings. You can do this in water or in well-draining soil.

Take a healthy stem with at least a few nodes, making the cut just below a node. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and place them in either tepid water or light soil that you have moistened. If you use soil, you can dip the cut end in rooting hormone and place the pot in a plastic bag to hold in humidity. In either place, position the cutting in bright, indirect light.

If rooting in water, change the water every few days. Look for roots to develop and transplant after a month.

If you are rooting in soil, water when the top of the soil is dry. Roots should develop in a few weeks or so. You can tell by tugging gently on the cutting. When it has rooted, you will feel resistance. Repot after a month or 6 weeks.

Repotting

It’s time to repot a houseplant when the roots take up most of the pot. You can tell with a philodendron by removing the rootball to see whether the roots are crowded. If so, get a container with good drainage holes. Pick one a few inches bigger than the old one, generally one size up.

Untangle the bottom and side roots. Put a few inches of appropriate potting soil in the bottom of the new pot, and install the plant, taking care to spread out the lower roots. Then add soil to the sides of the pot, pressing lightly. Once repotted, water generously and place in indirect light in a warm room.

Varieties

The species plant has velvety heart-shaped leaves. They are golden-bronze on top with mahogany undersides. For a larger plant, try Miduhoi, also known as “Jumbo Velvet Hearts,” thanks to its bigger, broader, coppery foliage.

For a velvet philodendron with silvery green leaves, consider Silver Sheen.

Frequently Asked Questions

There are over 450 species of Philodendron, with Philodendron tortum as one of the more unique forms. Unlike many common Philodendron houseplants, this species is characterized by narrow leaflets.

Philodendron tortum in the wild is a rainforest climbing plant native to Central and South America. Another name for the plant is Fernleaf Philodendron, a nod to its slender leaves.

Philodendron Tortum Care

Here's our exhaustive guide to Philodendron tortum care. Enjoy learning about this unusual type of philodendron.

Light

Philodendron tortum is an understory plant. As young plants, they start life on the forest floor. Philodendron tortum mature plants climb trees and other structures as they seek the light. The plant prefers indirect sunlight which mimics the dappled light it receives in nature. Place it within 3 feet (0.9 m) of an eastern or western window. If placed in a southern window, use a gauze or sheer curtain to filter the light.

Water

As a rainforest plant, this Philodendron is used for moisture. Philodendron tortum in the wild area of north Brazil to Bolivia receives plenty of rainfall. As a houseplant, let the top few inches (2.54 cm.) of soil dry to the touch. Water until it leaches out the drainage holes. Some tropical plants are sensitive to municipal water supplies. Let your tap water sit out overnight and off-gas and come to room temperature before adding it to the container.

Temperature & Humidity

Keep the plant away from drafty doors and windows. This Philodendron prefers warm temperatures similar to those found in most homes. The preferred humidity range is 50-70 percent. For this reason, a bathroom is an ideal home for the plant. You may also use a humidity tray (a saucer filled with pebbles and water) to increase ambient humidity through evaporation. Do not place the plant near drying heating ducts.

Soil

The plant does best in well-draining soil. Most good purchased potting mixes are ideal. Add a handful of vermiculite or perlite to enhance drainage. If you make your own soil it should be high in organic matter and well-draining.

Fertilizer

Feed the Philodendron in the active growing seasons of spring through summer. Use either a synthetic or organic houseplant food mixed in water once per month. You might also opt for a time-release formula applied to the soil in early spring.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Overwatering the plant could lead to fungal diseases. Low humidity will slow growth and leaf production. If you move the plant outdoors in the warm season, mealybugs and spider mites are the most common pests. Use horticultural oil sprays to combat insect invaders. This plant is a climber and will need a stout stake or moss pole to climb.

Pruning

Philodendron tortum doesn’t require pruning. Remove any damaged or dead leaves at any time, taking the entire petiole but taking care not to cut the stem. This plant can reach 20 feet ( 6.1 m.) in the wild but is unlikely to achieve that height in the home. If necessary remove excess growth at a growth node.

Propagation

Take a stem cutting with a node in early spring as active growth resumes.. Take a 6-inch (15 cm.) long cutting using disinfected, sharp pruners. Set the cut end in a glass of water to root. You can also dip the end in rooting hormone and place the cutting in lightly damp soil. Provide average light, heat, and humidity as roots begin to form. Transplant when there are plenty of roots.

Repotting

You will need to increase the container size as the plant outgrows its housing. However, the plant prefers to be a bit crowded. Use good organic-rich soil and water it well around the roots. Large, mature plants may require another pair of hands to successfully transfer the Philodendron. Increase the size of the support as needed.

Varieties

Outside of the standard form there is also a Philodendron tortum variegated. This plant boasts striping in cream colors. Variegated plants need higher light levels to keep the coloring.

Frequently Asked Questions

Philodendrons are extremely popular houseplants. They are low maintenance and very forgiving of a variety of conditions and some neglect. This makes them popular, but people also love philodendrons for their attractive appearance and variety.

There are several types of philodendron, including species and varieties with various appearances: heart-shaped, lance-shaped, or fiddle-shaped leaves, vining growth, self-heading growth, variegation, large leaves, and even pink coloration.

Choosing the Types of Philodendron Plants for Home Growing

All types of philodendron houseplants are tropical species native to Central and South America. Philodendron care is simple for all types: bright, indirect light, well-draining potting mix, warmth and humidity, and occasional fertilizer.

When choosing from among all the different types of philodendron, think about the space you have available. Sizes range from small to large. If you choose a vining type, do you have a way to support the vines?

Also consider availability when choosing plants. There are many common types of philodendron that are easy to find, but also rare varieties and species that are hard to find and expensive. (There are even a couple you can buy through us!)

Here are 8 of our favorite varieties that helped make philodendron the 2024 plant of the year.

1. Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum or P. scandens)

The most common types of philodendron houseplants are heartleaf species. These plants have medium or small, green, heart-shaped leaves growing on vines. Heartleaf philodendron care is simple, and they are among the easiest types to find in garden centers. Look for different varieties with unique colors, like ‘Brasil’ with yellow and lime green variegation.

2. Philodendron bipinnatifidum

This type of philodendron goes by many common names—lickety split, lacy tree, tree philodendron—and is characterized by large, deeply-lobed leaves. It is self-heading, meaning it grows from a central clump rather than producing vines. It can be very tall outdoors. In a container indoors, it may grow to eight feet (2.4 m) tall.

3. Philodendron erubescens ‘Pink Princess’

Pink Princess is a real stunner and a top choice for serious collectors. Unlike some other pink types, this philodendron is naturally pink, so the color will not fade. This is a vining type that can grow two to four feet (0.6 to 1.2 m) wide and four to five feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) tall. The leaves are heart-shaped and green with pink variegation. Adequate but indirect light is key to keeping the pink color vibrant.

4. Philodendron mia

Going by the common name Green Princess, this is one of the smallest types of philodendron you can find. Its mature size is just eight to ten inches (20 to 25 cm) tall and wide. The leaves are small, oval-shaped, and glossy deep green in color. It does well on windowsills and table tops.

5. Philodendron ‘Birkin’

Birkin is a small, upright variety of philodendron (no more than three feet or 0.9 meters tall), which is great for smaller spaces without good support for vines. The leaves are dark green with neat, white pinstripe variegation.

6. Philodendron erubescens ‘White Knight’

Another sought-after variety of P. erubescens, White Knight might be hard to find but is worth the search. It has elongated, lance-like leaves of light green with pure white variegation. Good growing conditions keep the white areas bright and distinct from the green. Expect it to grow no more than three feet (0.9 m) tall.

7. Philodendron xanadu

Xanadu has officially been reassigned to the Thaumatophyllum genus, but it is still thought of as a philodendron, with similar care needs. It is compact and upright, growing no more than five feet (1.5 m) tall. What makes Xanadu popular is its large and deeply-lobed dark green leaves.

8. Philodendron erubescens ‘Imperial Green’

This unique cultivar of philodendron has large, glossy, dark green leaves. As a self-heading or upright variety, Imperial Green stands on its own without a need for support. It only grows a few leaves at a time, but each one is large and striking. Expect it to grow up to four feet (1.2 m) tall.

Frequently Asked Questions

I know why philodendron has been named Plant of the Year I once had a split-leaf philodendron that grew over the fireplace and across to the next wall. It was spectacular. I have always loved this houseplant in particular. It is low maintenance, produces glossy leaves, and grows rapidly in the right conditions.

Philodendrons are native to tropical America where they grow as understory plants. There are nearly 500 accepted species of this common plant. Philodendron was named by a popular floral chain as the plant of the year 2024. They named it Houseplant of the Year due to its spectacular foliage. But the Philodendron doesn't need a title to be special. Its vibrancy and lushness add a verdant touch to a home, office, or other area.

What Makes Philodendrons So Special?

With so many varieties from which to choose, Philodendrons are perfect for any space. The plants range from bearing small heart-shaped leaves, to varieties whose foliage spans 3 feet (.9 m.). There are even species with cut leaves and those with brightly-hued foliage and/or veins. The leaves may be leathery or softly velveted.

There are 2 divisions of this plant, climbing and non-climbing. The climbing varieties scramble up trees in their native regions, while non-climbers are also called self-heading. This means they’re upright and have dense leaves that conceal the stems. Climbing houseplants look especially attractive trained to a trellis, moss pole, or in a hanging container.

Caring for Philodendron

This plant of the year is prized for its unfussy nature. It needs indirect sunlight which mimics the dappled sun it would get in nature. Away from western or southern windows, or by a gauze curtain is perfect. They will tolerate low lighting like that found in office spaces. Daytime temperatures of at least 75 F. (24 C.) and nighttime temps of 65 F. (18 C.) are ideal.

Philodendron plants have no cold tolerance but can go outdoors in a shady location in the summer. Keep your plant’s soil moist but not boggy. Feed with a houseplant food diluted by half every other watering in the growing season. The broad leaves tend to get dusty, so put the plant in the shower every once in a while to gently clean them.

Propagating Philodendron

Since these are such special plants, it's only natural to want more than one. Propagating philodendrons that trail is the most successful. Remove a stem with several healthy leaves and stand it in a glass of water. Change the water frequently. Pot it in potting soil when it has a healthy batch of roots. They may also be grown by air layering and some species produce offsets which may be divided away from the parent plant. Most plants available for purchase are propagated from cuttings in America in greenhouses.

Common Types of Philodendron

Climbing

• Heart Leaf (Birkin, Brasil, Areum)
• Red Leaf ( Black Cardinal, Pink Princess)
• Fiddleleaf (deeply cut leaves)
• Whipple Way (creamy pointed leaves with green splotches)
• Ring of Fire (orange undersides and speckled uppers)
• Firebird (leaves are half green, half orange)
• Silver Splash (maroon leaves with silver splashes)

Non-climbing

• Zanadu (deeply cut leaves into fine leaflets)
• Congo (oval green leaves)
• Atom (softly noded leaves with white veins)
• Imperial Red (burgundy red leaves)
• Prince of Orange (orange splotches on deep burgundy leaves)
• Moonlight (almost lime green leaves)
• Congo Rojo (oval green leaves with red stems and veins)

Why Add a Philodendron to Your Plant Collection

Although the plant was first noted in the 1600s, it wasn’t named until nearly 200 years later. The name is from the Greek “philo” which means love, and “dendron” which means trees. Therefore it is a tree lover, an apt description for a plant that will wind around larger plants. The plants are epiphytes and will not harm the tree, but will simply use it for stability and structure.

Many varieties produce aerial roots which gather nutrients and water from the air. The many varieties and ease of care are two of the many Philodendron benefits. Their addition in the home provides a tropical feel and a sense of the outdoors brought right in through our doors. And since they don’t demand a lot of time and energy, they are the perfect way to perk up a room without a lot of fuss.

Tree (or hope) philodendron is a large tropical plant often grown indoors as a houseplant.

A newer hybrid, called philodendron little hope, is a smaller version with the same striking leaves but in a more manageable size.

Learn more about philodendron little hope care and regular hope care to enjoy one or more of these tropical beauties in your home.

About the Philodendron Hope Plant

Hope is Philodendron bipinnatifidum, also known as tree philodendron. It’s part of the large group of tropical plants called philodendron. Hope philodendron is native to parts of South America, including Brazil, Argentina, and Bolivia.

Hope philodendron can grow up to 15 feet (4.5 m.) tall outdoors in its native range. As a houseplant, it will max out at approximately 6 feet (2 m.) tall and 8 feet (2 m.) wide.

Although it is called tree philodendron, this is more of a shrub. It grows large, deeply-lobed, and glossy green leaves. Hope is a popular houseplant for these pretty leaves, it’s tropical look, and its low-maintenance needs.

Philodendron Little Hope vs. Hope

A newer philodendron was developed to mimic the appearance of hope but more compactly. Little hope philodendron looks just like its bigger relative, but grows to only one or two feet tall (31-61 cm.) and wide.

Philodendron Hope Care

Care for both hope and little hope is the same and, like with other philodendrons, is mostly hands-off. Start with a high-quality potting soil. Philodendron prefers rich, fertile soil, but it should also drain well. Avoid adding peat moss for drainage, as it will make the soil too acidic.

Light needs for tree philodendron mimic what it would experience in the wild: bright but indirect light or some dappled shade. Choose a sunny window with something to screen the light, like a light shade or curtain. You can place a little hope philodendron under a larger plant in a bright, sunny window to achieve partial shade.

Keep the soil in the container consistently moist but never soggy. The best way to water philodendron is to let the top inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) of soil dry before watering thoroughly. When watering, let some water drain out of the bottom so you know you have soaked the entire root system.

As a tropical plant, your hope philodendron prefers warm, humid air. Even so, philodendron generally tolerates the indoor conditions of most homes, which can be a little dry. Avoid putting your plant in a drafty, cold area or next to a vent with drying air. You can increase the humidity around the plant with a pebble tray under the container. This also aids drainage after watering.

Your philodendron will tolerate a lot of neglect, but it will also benefit from regular feedings. Give it a balanced houseplant fertilizer about once a month during the growing season. Ease back on fertilizer in fall and winter.

Neither type of philodendron requires pruning unless you need to remove any dead leaves or control the size. The larger hope philodendron might get a little floppy as it gets larger. You can trim off some stems or stake them to provide support.

Philodendron Hope Propagation

If you want to share with friends, take cuttings of your little hope or hope philodendron. Make a cut below a node on a stem and place the cutting in water. Place it in a spot with indirect but bright light and wait for roots to form. Once the roots are one or two inches (2.5-5 cm.) long, you can plant the cutting in soil.

Tree philodendron is a great houseplant. It doesn’t require a lot of care and lends a relaxing tropical feel to any room. With two sizes, you have more options and can choose a plant to fit your needs.

Leggy indoor plants are a common complaint. Most plants require some maintenance, whether it be removing dead leaves or spent blooms, but how do you fix leggy plants? Just like many outdoor plants require pruning, some indoor plants, say a leggy pothos plant, need pruning. Read on to learn how to prune houseplants. 

Leggy Plants Indoors

There are a couple of reasons a plant might become leggy. Some plants, like the easy to grow pothos, are prone to growing and looking rather rangy. Luckily a leggy pothos plant is an easy fix; and you end up with pothos plants to share with friends. 

The other reason a plant may become leggy is because it is stretching to reach a light source. This results in long spaces between leaf nodes making the plant look a bit scraggly. If lack of light is the culprit, the scant leaves are often also light green because they can’t photosynthesize well. 

How to Prune Houseplants

Trimming houseplants can mean one of two things: training or grooming. Plants can be pinched or cut an inch (2.5 cm.) or so just above the node. This is done to produce a bushier, more compact plant, and is part of training your houseplant. 

Leggy vining indoor plants, however, should really be pruned. This involves cutting significantly more of the plant in order to make it compact and less rangy. Take a leggy pothos plant for instance. Using sterile shears remove 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) of the terminal or end growth just below a node or leaf joint. 

Pothos roots easily in a glass of water. Other types of cuttings such as coleus, geranium, begonia, ivy, and some type of philodendron should be placed in loose, moist potting soil. 

How to Fix Leggy Plants

As mentioned, some leggy plants are the result of struggling towards light. Obviously the thing to do here is to provide more light either by adding a plant light or moving the plant to an area in the home that has more light exposure. If adding light isn’t an option, look for low light plants like the aforementioned pothos. 

Vining types of philodendron, such as the heartleaf variety, tend to get leggy. This is especially true in low light. When vines get too long, you can take cuttings from the plant to grow more. Read on to learn more about philodendron propagation, including how to propagate a heart-leaf philodendron.

Where to Cut Philodendron for Propagation

The easiest way to propagate philodendron plants is to take cuttings and root them. To do this, find a node on the vine. This is usually near a leaf, where there may even be aerial roots already starting to grow. Cut just above the node at a 45 degree angle with clean clippers.

If you’re taking from a leggy plant, your cutting might be too long. When propagating philodendron, you want cuttings that are about 5 inches (13 cm.) long, with 2 to 3 leaves. Cut your vine to the right length, making sure once again to cut just above the node. Trim off any leaves near the bottom and you are ready to root your philodendron cutting.

Propagating Philodendron in Water

The first method to propagate philodendron is to stick your cuttings in a clean jar of water. Make sure the nodes are fully submerged. Then place your cuttings in indirect sunlight. Change the water every few days and in a few weeks you should have new roots that are ready for transplant!

Propagating Philodendron in Soil

You can also root philodendron directly in soil. Prepare a pot with holes in the bottom like you would for any new houseplant - this includes adding houseplant growing medium, water, and a few stones for added drainage.

It's helpful to add a rooting hormone to your philodendron cutting before you plant it. You can use a commercial rooting hormone or, if you're looking for something a little different, try dipping your cuttings in cinnamon before placing them in soil. Cinnamon acts as a natural fungicide that also encourages root growth.

Place your plant in indirect sun and keep the soil moist, but not wet. In a few weeks, you should see new growth and new roots.

Silver leaf philodendrons (Philodendron brandtianum) are attractive, tropical plants with olive green leaves splashed with silvery markings. They tend to be bushier than most philodendrons.

Although Philodendron brandtianum works well as a hanging plant, you can also train it to climb up a trellis or other support. As an added benefit, silver leaf philodendrons help remove pollutants from indoor air.

Read on and learn just how to grow Philodendron brandtianum.

Philodendron Brandtianum Care

Philodendron brandtianum plants (Brandi philodendron variety) are easy to grow and are suitable for the warm, non-freezing climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 9b to 11. They are most often grown as indoor plants.

Philodendron brandtianum should be planted in a container filled with quality, well-drained potting mix. The container must have at least one drainage hole in the bottom. Place in a warm room where temperatures are between 50 and 95 degrees F. (10-35 C.).

This plant is tolerant to most light levels but is happiest in moderate or filtered light. Semi shady areas are fine, but intense sunlight may scorch the leaves.

Water the plant deeply, then allow the top of the soil to become slightly dry before watering again. Never allow the pot to sit in water.

Feed every other week using a general-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength.

Repot the philodendron whenever the plant looks crowded in its pot. Feel free to move outdoors during the summer; however, be sure to bring it inside well before risk of frost. A location in filtered light is ideal.

Toxicity of Philodendron Brandtianum Plants

Keep silver leaf philodendrons away from children and pets, especially those that may be tempted to eat the plants. All parts of the plant are toxic and will cause irritation and burning of the mouth if eaten. Ingesting the plant may also cause difficulty swallowing, drooling, and vomiting.

If you enjoy growing houseplants, especially philodendrons, then you may want to consider adding the Xanadu philodendron houseplant to your list. Xanadu philodendron care is simple and this larger plant makes a wonderful vertical accent in the home.

What is a Xanadu Plant?

Philodendron ‘Xanadu’ (sometimes called ‘Winterbourn’) is a member of the Philodendron genus, and is a delightful and easy-to-grow houseplant. Unlike many other philodendrons, this is not a vining plant, so no support is needed. 

It will form a dense clump of beautifully lobed leaves and will tend to grow wider than taller. The Xanadu philodendron houseplant can grow to 2 to 4 feet tall (61 cm. to 1 m.) and up to 4 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) wide, but indoors it will probably be on the shorter end. 

Growing Xanadu Philodendron Plants

Xanadu philodendron care is quite easy.

• Light – Philodendron ‘Xanadu’ likes a little more light than most philodendrons in order to maintain its compact growth habit. Bright, indirect light will suit this plant well, and even a little direct sun, especially morning sun, will be good for this plant. If you have this plant in too dark of a location, the stems will elongate a bit too much. However, too much direct sun can cause the foliage to turn a yellowish green color.
• Watering – Water thoroughly when you irrigate and allow excess water to drain through the drainage hole. Allow about half of the soil to dry out before watering again. Keeping this plant too wet, like any houseplant, may cause yellowing of the leaves. 
• Humidity – Philodendrons do enjoy higher humidity, however, they are very tolerant of average indoor humidity so you don’t have to worry about this too much.
• Temperature – The ideal growing temperatures are 75 to 85 degrees F. (24-29 C.) during the day and 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.) for nighttime temperatures. 
• Fertilizing – Be sure to fertilize during the growing season with a fertilizer that contains all the major macro and micro-nutrients for best results. If a plant is growing very slowly and you are providing enough light, it may need more fertilizer.
• Toxicity – These plants are poisonous to cats and dogs, so be careful where you place this plant in your home.

A great indoor plant for colder climates and a stunning landscape element for sub-tropical gardens, Philodendron selloum, is an easy plant to grow. You get a lot of plant for minimal effort, as it will grow into a large shrub or small tree with large, decorative leaves and requires little care. Read on to learn more about these “split-leaf” philodendron plants

What is a Selloum Philodendron?

Philodendron selloum is also known as split-leaf philodendron and split-leaf elephant ear. It belongs to the group of philodendron plants that are among the most common of houseplants for their ability thrive and still be ignored. A green thumb is generally not required to grow philodendrons successfully, in other words. Split-leaf philodendron plants grow quite large, up to ten feet (3 meters) high and 15 feet (4.5 meters) wide. This type of philodendron grows a tree-like trunk, but the overall growth habit is more like a large shrub. The real standout feature of split-leaf elephant ear philodendron is the foliage. The leaves are large and a dark, glossy green. They have deep lobes, hence the name “split-leaf,” and can be up to three feet (one meter) long. These plants will grow a simple flower, but not for a decade or more after planting.

Split-Leaf Philodendron Care

Growing this philodendron indoors is easy as long as you give it a large enough container and size up as it grows. It will need a spot with indirect light and regular watering to thrive. Outdoors split-leaf philodendron is hardy in zones 8b through 11. It prefers to have rich soil that stays moist but doesn’t flood or have standing water. It likes full sun, but it will also grow well in partial shade and indirect light. Keep the soil moist. The split-leaf variety of philodendron is a stunning plant that makes a great foundation planting in a warm garden, but that also does well in containers. It can be the centerpiece of a room or add a tropical element poolside.

Tree philodendron houseplants are long-lived plants that need only the simplest of care. In fact, too much TLC might make them grow so large you’re unable to move them indoors for the winter. Learn about tree philodendron care in this article.

About Tree Philodendron Houseplants

It should be noted that the plant, until recently, was classified as Philodendron selloum, but is now reclassified as P. bipinnatifidum. This Brazilian native has a stem that appears as a woody trunk when the plant is older, hence the common name, and may reach 15 feet (4.5 m.) in height and 10 feet (3 m.) across in maturity. If you’re in warmer zones and able to leave your tree philodendron houseplants in the same spot year-round, by all means, repot and fertilize to increase its size. Tree philodendron care advises repotting into a larger container in late winter or early spring. If you want to keep the tree in its current pot, leave it alone, and it can only grow so large. If you have plenty of room and someone to help you lift the tree as it gets older (and bigger), go up a size on the container. This interesting specimen may flower in maturity if grown outdoors. Flowers are enclosed in a spathe and create heat to attract pollinators. Flower temperatures rise to 114 degrees F. (45 C.) to draw the scarab beetle. Flowers last for a two day period and generally bloom in sets of two to three blooms during that time. Plants don’t bloom until they’re 15 or 16 years old. Pups, baby plantlets, sometimes grow at the base of the older plant. Remove these with sharp pruners and plant into small containers to start new plants.

How to Grow a Tree Philodendron

Growing requirements for Philodendron selloum include a full to part sun location for the plant. If possible, put it in the morning sun to prevent sunscald on the large, beautiful leaves. Providing afternoon shade is likely to help avoid such burns on this easy-to-grow plant. If leaves have gotten a bit too much sun and have burned spots or browning tips on them, some Philodendron selloum pruning may help to remove such damage. Additional pruning of this tree philodendron may keep it sized down if it appears to be outgrowing its space. Learning how to grow a tree philodendron is simple. Plant in fertile, well-draining houseplant soil and water as soil begins to dry out. Those located outside in the sunshine grow best, but this plant lives happily indoors as well. Keep it in bright light and provide humidity with a pebble tray, humidifier, or using a mister. Don’t allow it in temperatures that fall to below 55 degrees F. (13 C.).

The name ‘Philodendron’ means ‘tree loving’ in Greek and, believe me, there is plenty to love. When you think of philodendron, you may envision a houseplant with big, heart-shaped leaves, but there are actually several hundred species of these beautiful tropical foliage plants featured in a wide variety of leaf sizes, shapes, and colors. A majority of the species are vining, with leaves 3 inches (8 cm.) to 3 feet (91 cm.) in length, while others are in more of a shrub shape (self-heading). While they have a reputation as great easy-to-grow houseplants, can philodendron plants grow outdoors? Why yes, they can! So, let’s learn more about how to care for philodendrons outside!

Outdoor Philodendron Care

When learning how to care for philodendrons, it is best to consider the growing criteria for your specific variety; however, this article can help provide you with a general overview of outdoor philodendron care. The first question you should ask is, “In my region, can philodendron plants grow outdoors?" Given that philodendrons are tropical plants, you will only be able to grow them outside year-round, with any measure of success, in a warm weather climate where temperatures do not dip below 55 degrees F. (13 C.) at night, although 65 degrees F. (18 C.) is more ideal since they really do not like the cold. The rest of us, including myself, as I live in the northeast U.S., will be carting our philodendron plants in their respective containers indoors and out, according to the season and the reading on the temperature gauge. Given that philodendrons can reach some significant height, I’m sure that some of us with container philodendrons will opt to keep our plants inside year-round, but I prefer to give mine some outdoor time, as it really seems to boost growth. When planting philodendrons in the garden, or when situating your philodendron container outdoors, you need to consider that philodendrons are forest dwelling plants that are best served in a location that provides shade and indirect sunlight. Full sunlight will cause yellow sunburnt leaves, and you don’t want that. The soil should be kept consistently moist but never soggy, be well draining, and rich in nutrients and organic matter. A light feeding every three to four months with granular food is also recommended when caring for your philodendron outside. Another important consideration to make when caring for your philodendron outside is that they are toxic to people and pets, causing severe inflammation of the mouth and throat. Their sap is also known to cause skin irritation, so please be sure to wear gloves when trimming the plant and to disinfect pruning tools upon completion of pruning tasks. Pruning is not really a requirement for promoting growth for your philodendrons in the garden, but you may need to trim away dead or yellow leaves on occasion.

Can you cut back philodendrons? Yes, you sure can. Although they don’t require a lot of pruning, occasionally cutting back philodendron plants keeps these beauties looking their tropical best and keeps them from becoming too large for their surroundings. Here are a few general guidelines for cutting back philodendron plants.

Pruning Philodendron Plants

One rule of thumb: If you aren’t sure your plant needs pruning, wait. Pruning a philodendron shouldn’t be done if it isn’t really necessary, and a good pruning job should never detract from the overall appearance of the plant. In other words, your work really shouldn’t be noticeable. 

Cutting back philodendron plants is beneficial if the plant is taking up too much space in the room, or if the plant looks long and leggy. This type of pruning is best done in spring or fall. You can safely give your philodendron a light trim any time of year to remove yellowing leaves and trim spindly growth. 

Before pruning philodendron plants, you’ll want to sterilize pruning tools. This simple but all-important step takes seconds and helps prevent the spread of disease causing bacteria that may affect the health of your philodendron. To sterile pruning tools, remove any mud or debris, then simply give the tools a quick dip in a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water. 

Bleach can be corrosive, so rinse tools in clear water after they’re sterilized. Alternatively, wipe tools with regular rubbing alcohol, which is effective and not as corrosive as bleach.

How to Trim Philodendrons

Cut off the longest, oldest stems, or any stems that are leggy or have a lot of yellowing or dead leaves. In some cases, very old stems may be completely leafless. Make cuts using a sharp and sterile knife, scissors, or pruning shears, cutting where the stem meets the main part of the plant. I

f you can’t see where the base of the stem connects, cut the stem at soil level. If your philodendron is the vining type, use pruning shears or simply pinch the tips of vines. This quickie type of pruning will neaten up the plant and encourage bushier, healthier growth. 

Always cut or pinch growth just above a leaf node, which is the point on a stem where a new leaf or stem grows. Otherwise, you’ll be left with a lot of unsightly stubs.

The philodendron Congo Rojo is an attractive warm weather plant that produces showy flowers and interesting leaves. It gets the name “rojo” from its new leaves, which unfurl in a deep, shiny red. As the leaves mature, they fade to a burgundy-green color. Keep reading to learn more about growing a philodendron Congo Rojo and Congo Rojo philodendron care.

Philodendron Information

What is a Congo Rojo philodendron? Native to South America, the Congo Rojo is different from many other philodendrons in that it doesn’t have a climbing or vining habit. Growing instead in a “self-heading” manner, it grows both outward and upward, peaking at about 2 feet (61 cm.) in height and 2 ½ feet (76 cm.) in width. Its flowers are very fragrant and come in shades of red, green, and white.

Caring for Philodendron Congo Rojo

Caring for a philodendron Congo Rojo is very easy, as long as you keep it warm. The plant is very cold sensitive and will suffer serious damage below 40 degrees F. (4 C.). While it can tolerate short periods of extreme heat, it will also have trouble if exposed to temperatures over 100 degrees F. (38 C.) for too long. It's ideal temperatures are between 76 and 86 degrees F. (24-30 C.) during the day and between 65 and 72 degrees F. (18-22 C.) at night. These tend to correspond to most household temperatures and, as such, growing a philodendron Congo Rojo as a houseplant is very common.

Two or three plants in a 10 inch (25 cm.) container make for a full, attractive display. It needs at least partial shade to prevent scorching by the sun, and it will tolerate full shade.

It prefers acidic to neutral soil that drains very easily. The plant is a very heavy feeder and does well with two or three applications per year of slow-release fertilizer.

Fiddleleaf philodendron is a large foliaged houseplant that grows up trees in its natural habitat and requires supplemental support in containers. Where does fiddleleaf philodendron grow? It is a native of the tropical rainforests of south Brazil into Argentina, Bolivia, and Paraguay. Growing fiddleleaf philodendrons in the home interior brings the experience of a hot, steamy forest filled with exotic flora into your home.

Philodendron Bipennifolium Information

Fiddleleaf philodendron is scientifically known as Philodendron bipennifolium. The philodendron is an Aroid and produces the characteristic inflorescence with a spathe and spadix. As a houseplant, its glorious cut foliage is a showstopper and its easy growth and low maintenance assign it ideal houseplant status. Fiddleleaf philodendron care is simple and uncomplicated. This is a truly lovely indoor plant with volumes of appeal. One of the more important items of Philodendron bipennifolium information is that it is not a true epiphyte. Technically, it is a hemi-epiphyte, which is a soil-grown plant that climbs trees with its long stem and the assistance of aerial roots. This means staking and tying in a home container situation to keep the plant from flopping over. The leaves are fiddle or horse-head shaped. Each can reach 18 inches (45.5 cm.) to 3 feet (1 m.) in length with a leathery texture and glossy green color. The plant is mature and ready to reproduce in 12 to 15 years in ideal climates. It produces a creamy white spathe and tiny round ½-inch (1.5 cm.) green fruits. The plant is unknown to reproduce in interior settings or in hot, dry climates.

Growing Fiddleleaf Philodendrons

The tropical houseplant requires warm temperatures and has no cold hardiness. Once you answer, "Where does fiddleleaf philodendron grow?", the tropical nature of its native land becomes a signature for its care. Fiddleleaf philodendron care mimics its wild range and native land. The plant prefers moist, humus-rich soil and a container large enough for the root ball, but not excessively large. More important is having a stout stake or other support for the thick trunk to grow up. Fiddleleaf philodendrons can also be grown downwards as trailing specimens. Mimicking the native climate also means placing the plant in a semi-shady location. As a forest denizen, the plant is an understory species, which is shaded by taller plants and trees most of the day.

Caring for Fiddleleaf Philodendrons

Caring for fiddleleaf philodendrons basically rests on a consistent watering regimen, occasional dusting of the big leaves, and removal of dead plant material. Reduce watering a bit in winter but, otherwise, keep the soil moderately moist. Provide support structures for this philodendron when training them up vertically. Repot fiddleleaf philodendrons every few years to energize the plants with new soil but you don't have to increase the size of the container each time. Fiddleleaf philodendron seems to thrive in tight quarters. If you are lucky enough to have your philodendron produce a flower, check out the temperature of the inflorescence. It can hold a temperature of 114 degrees Fahrenheit (45 C.) for up to two days or as long as it is open. This is the only example of a plant controlling its temperature known.

Philodendrons are very popular indoor plants with large, attractive, deeply segmented leaves. They are especially prized for their ability to thrive in low, artificial light. Sometimes, however, their leaves can turn yellow or brown and unhealthy looking. Keep reading for causes for philodendron leaves turning yellow and brown, and what you can do about it.

Why are My Philodendron Leaves Turning Brown?

There are a few possible causes for brown philodendron leaves. Philodendrons have specific water and light requirements, and if the plant looks sickly, there’s a good chance it’s because one of these requirements isn’t being met.

Water

Philodendrons require a steady supply of water to remain healthy. The soil should always be a little bit moist. If you’re spacing your waterings out too much or watering too lightly, this could be the cause. When you water, water thoroughly, not stopping until water flows out of the drainage holes. Conversely, too much water can cause brown philodendron leaves as well. Philodendrons like water, but they don’t like to sit in it. Make sure your pot has plenty of drainage and that water flows freely out of the drainage holes when you water.

Light

If it’s not water making your philodendron leaves brown, it might be light. Philodendrons thrive in indirect light and are often perfectly happy with only artificial light. If you’ve put your philodendron in a window or outdoors where it receives direct sunlight, its leaves might turn yellow and even suffer from sunburn. Philodendrons can suffer from too little light, however. Particularly in winter or in a darker room, they may start to yellow and could benefit from being placed nearer a window.

Diseases

Philodendron leaves turning yellow and brown could also be caused by certain bacterial diseases. Leaf spots, leaf blights, and tip burns can all mean leaves turning brown on philodendrons. If your plant is infected, isolate it from your other plants and remove the offending leaves with a pair of scissors that you disinfect between each cut. If more than a third of the leaves are affected, remove them in stages so as not to kill the plant. Protect your uninfected plants by giving them plenty of air circulation. When you water them, avoid wetting the leaves - bacteria need moisture to grow and spread.

There is lots of confusion when it comes to tree and split leaf philodendrons – two different plants. That being said, the care of both, including repotting, is fairly similar. Keep reading for more information about how to repot a lacy tree philodendron.

Tree vs. Split Leaf Philodendron

Before getting into how to repot a lacy tree philodendron, we must first explain the confusion often associated with growing these and split leaf philodendrons. While they look alike and sometimes go by the same name, these are two totally different plants. Split leaf philodendron plants (Monstera deliciosa), aka Swiss cheese plants, are characterized by the large holes and fissures that appear naturally in the leaves with exposure to the sun. The split leaf philodendron is not actually a true philodendron, but it is closely related and can be treated as such, particularly when it comes to repotting, and is normally lumped into the same care regimen, though being of differing genera. Philodendron bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron selloum) is known as the tree philodendron and may occasionally be found under such names as lacy tree philodendron, cut-leaf philodendron, and split-leaf philodendron (which is incorrect and the cause for confusion). This tropical “tree-like” Philodendron species also has leaves that are “split” or “lacy” looking and grows easily as a houseplant or in suitable areas outdoors in warm climates.

Transplanting a Lacy Tree Philodendron

Philodendron is a tropical plant that grows vigorously and requires frequent repotting if grown in a container. It actually responds very well to slight crowding, however, so with each repotting you should move it to a container that is only a little bit larger. If you can, choose a pot that is 2 inches (5 cm.) wider in diameter and 2 inches (5 cm.) deeper than your current pot. As tree philodendrons can get quite large, you may want to consider choosing a pot size that is easy to manage, like with a 12-inch (30.5 cm.) pot for easier lifting. Of course, larger options are available and if you have a larger specimen, this might be more favorable but for more ease of care, opt for something with wheels or coasters to keep its movement in and outdoors simpler.

How and When to Repot Tree Philodendrons

You should be repotting your tree philodendron, as with all repottings, in early spring just as the plant is emerging from its winter dormancy. Ideally, daytime temperatures should be reaching 70 degrees F. (21 C). Fill the bottom third of the new container with potting soil. Gently slide your plant out of its current container, your palm flat against the soil and the stem resting firmly between two fingers. Over the pot, delicately shake out as much of the soil from the roots as possible, then set the plant inside the container, spreading out the roots. Fill the container with potting soil up to its previous level on the plant. Water your plant until water trickles out of the drainage holes. Place the plant back in its old spot and don’t water it again until the top layer of soil is dry. You should notice new growth in four to six weeks. If transplanting a lacy tree philodendron is simply impossible because it’s too big, remove the top 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) of soil and replace it with fresh potting soil every two years.

For generations, philodendrons have served as a mainstay in interior gardens. Philodendron care is easy because if you watch for the signals, the plant will tell you exactly what it needs. Even inexperienced houseplant owners will have no trouble growing philodendron, because the plants adapt readily to conditions inside the home.

Quick Philodendron Facts

• Botanical name: Philodendron spp.
• Height: vines can grow up to 3 feet (0.9 m); some non-climbers up to 6 feet tall (1.8 m)
• Spread: some non-climbers can reach 6 feet (1.8 m)
• Sun exposure: indirect sun
• Soil requirements: light, well-draining
• Hardiness zones: heartleaf philodendron - USDA zones 10B-11; tree philodendron zones 8b-11
• When to plant: year round as houseplants; outdoors in spring

How to Care for a Philodendron

Indoor plants grow year round without complaint, but they enjoy an occasional stay outdoors in a shady spot when the weather permits. Taking the plant outdoors also gives you a chance to flush the soil with plenty of fresh water and clean the leaves. 

Unlike most houseplants, philodendrons don’t experience as much stress when moving from indoor to outdoor settings.

The cultural needs of philodendrons depend on the species of the plant and whether it is a houseplant or a garden fixture. But a few general rules apply when it comes to how to care for a philodendron. 

First, most philodendrons are not cold hardy and can only live outside in a very warm climate. They prefer the same temperatures humans enjoy indoors. 

Second, most species do not do well in direct sun, and, finally, most philodendrons require well-draining soil to thrive.

Sunlight

The amount and type of sunlight a philodendron requires depends on the species. Popular heart-leaf philodendron prefers indirect bright light, but these are easy-going houseplants that will accept a range of lighting conditions, including shade.

If you're growing your philodendron as a houseplant, place the pot in a location with bright, indirect sunlight. Find a position near a window where the sun’s rays never actually touch the foliage. 

While it’s normal for older leaves to yellow, if this happens to several leaves at the same time, the plant may be getting too much light. On the other hand, if the stems are long and leggy with several inches between leaves, the plant probably isn’t getting enough light.

Soil

Plant philodendrons in light growing medium that allows water to drain easily. Wet soil can cause roots to rot.

Water

Philodendrons are not particularly thirsty plants. Houseplants should be watered whenever the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry to the touch. That's about the length of your index finger to the first knuckle, so inserting your finger into the soil is a good way to check the moisture level.

As a general rule, the large lush leaves of philodendrons do best when their soil is kept consistently moist, but not wet. Droopy leaves can mean that the plant is getting too much or not enough water. But the leaves recover quickly when you correct the watering schedule.

The plant’s leaves will also turn yellow when it is getting too much water. This is less likely in outdoor plants than houseplants. Be sure never to let a potted plant sit in a saucer of water.

Fertilizer

It is recommended that you fertilize philodendrons regularly. Feed philodendron houseplants with a balanced liquid foliage houseplant fertilizer that contains macro-nutrients. Use a water-soluble fertilizer and be sure to dilute it.

Water the plant with the fertilizer monthly in spring and summer and every six to eight weeks in fall and winter. Slow growth and small leaf size is the plant’s way of telling you that it isn’t getting enough fertilizer. Pale new leaves usually indicate that the plant isn’t getting enough calcium and magnesium, which are essential micro-nutrients for philodendrons.

That being said, many people choose not to fertilize their philodendrons and still have healthy, beautiful plants.

Check Out Our Complete Guide to Houseplants

Propagation

Many species of philodendron propagate readily from cuttings planted in potting mix. Heart-leaf is among them. That means that with one established houseplant you can create as many as you like over time.

Outdoor Care

If you live in one of the warmest hardiness zones, you can include philodendron foliage plants in the garden. In mild zones, tree philodendron can reach a height of 12-15 feet (3.6-4.5 m) with an equal or greater spread, and has deeply cut, green to dark green leaves up to 3 feet (0.9 m) in length. All need indirect sun, well-draining soil, and reasonable irrigation. They prefer a humid climate.

Problems

Philodendrons are generally not difficult to care for in the home. They are not vulnerable to many plant diseases, although they react to excess or insufficient water. If you fail to give the plant well-draining soil, you may cause root rot, which can kill the plant. Too much fertilizer can cause tip browning. Too much or too little water plus insects and mites are the main problems.

In terms of insect pests, keep an eye out for aphids, mealybugs, scales and spider mites. And don’t eat any part of your philodendron plants. They are toxic to humans and pets.

Types of Philodendron

The philodendron genus is a large one, generally divided into two major types: climbing and non-climbing. Plants with vines can either be trained to climb up a trellis or hang down in a hanging basket. Climbing varieties include:

• Heart-leaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
• Fiddleleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum bipennifolium)
• Red-leaf philodendron (Philodendron erubescens)
• Elephant’s ear philodendron (Philodendron domesticum)
• Brandi philodendron (Philodendron brandtianum)
• Silver sword (Philodendron hastatum)
• Velour philodendron (Philodendron melanochrysum)

Self-heading types are the non-climbing species. They have an upright, spreading growth habit. The width of non-climbers can be as much as twice their height, so give them plenty of elbow room. They often work better outside. Non-climing varieties include:

• Split leaf philodendron (Philodendron selloum)
• Lacy tree philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum)
• Birdsnest philodendron (Philodendron imbe)
• Hybrids such as "Xanadu," "Birkin," and "Moonlight"

Is My Plant a Pothos or a Philodendron?

Philodendron houseplants are often confused with pothos (Epipremnum aureum), because they look very similar, have similar growing conditions, and sometimes are just plain mislabelled.

While the leaves of these two plants are similar in shape, the stems of pothos plants are grooved, while those of philodendrons are not. New philodendron leaves emerge surrounded by a leaf sheath, which eventually dries and falls off. Pothos leaves don’t have this sheath. Pothos also need brighter light and warmer temperatures, and are frequently sold in hanging baskets.