Lovely summer weather is the perfect time for kids to enjoy the outdoors and let their imaginations run wild. I still look back fondly on the days I'd spend in my local park as a kid, making up pretend games with my brothers and seeing how high we could get from the ground on the swing set.

However, it would always be a shame when the play area was covered in bird poop. I used to bring kitchen towels along with me to put onto the seats of the swings to avoid sitting on it, or I'd just play somewhere else and accept defeat.

Attracting birds to your backyard is a worthy endeavor but sometimes they seem to poop in all the worst places! (If they have already done their business, check out our guide to cleaning bird poop). And if you're wondering why that seems to be, you've come to the right place. I talked to Bob Mulvihill from the National Aviary to learn why kids playsets are a magnet for bird poop as well as how it can be prevented. Here's what he had to share.

Why Do Birds Poop on Kids' Playsets?

If a bird needs to poop, they are going to poop anywhere, but there's a particular reason why the likes of kids' playsets end up pooped on more often than open spaces: they offer birds the perfect spot to perch.

As Bob explains: "Birds of all kinds naturally like to perch up off the ground to get a better view of their surroundings, and if there isn’t a rock, tree, bush, or fence post close by, but there is a swing set or scattered lawn toys, they will use those as perches instead."

Even if garden birds aren't perching there specifically to poop, after enjoying their time admiring the view from on top of your kids' playsets they might need to go before flying away.

There are a number of kid-friendly ways to make the likes of swing sets less appealing to perch on. However preventative measures such as bird spikes, which are commonly used in cities to stop pigeons from landing on buildings, are a rather dangerous option.

Child-Friendly Ways to Prevent Birds From Pooping on Playsets

You can't entirely prevent birds from ever being able to poop on your kids' playsets unless you put them away or fully cover them up when they're not in use. However, there are many methods out there to make kids' playsets less appealing to land on, which will significantly decrease the chance of birds perching on them while they do their business.

Bob recommends using a mixture of "plastic owls, reflective strips and wind spinners" to deter birds from the area. Seeing objects that are shiny or moving, as well as birds of prey, will make feathery friends think twice about where they land. You can find mylar reflective ribbon on Amazon. Though Bob also noted it's important to switch up what you're using as over time the bird visiting your yard will get used to the deterrents and ignore them.

Two other options Bob recommended are using bird repellent sprays like the Nature Stop Bird Repellent Spray from Amazon as well as ultrasonic bird repellers like this Solar Ultrasonic Repellent Device from Amazon.

The sprays contain natural essential oils that are harmless to humans but irritating to birds. Meanwhile the ultrasonic repellers emit a frequency of noise that birds don't enjoy hearing that humans won't be able to notice.

How to Clean Bird Poop Off of Your Playsets

It's best to remove any bird poop from your playsets before applying repellents so they can best adhere to the surface.

If the bird poop is still wet you can simply wipe it off using a cloth and a mixture of warm water and soap. But if you're dealing with stubborn dried patches of bird poop, laying a damp cloth on top of it to soften it can be really helpful in making it easier to wipe away.

You can also add some white vinegar into your cleaning water to sterilize the surface too if you wish. Don't forget to give metal surfaces like swing poles a wipe down with a dry cloth after you're finished cleaning to help prevent the development of rust!

Shop Bird Deterrents

Are you looking for an effective, natural, and chemical-free way to protect your plants from pests this summer? If so, you've got to try diatomaceous earth.

It may be a mouthful to say, but it's actually very simple. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a naturally occurring powder made of fossilized microscopic aquatic organisms called diatoms, hence the name. To humans and pets, it feels like a soft, fine dust. But to any non-flying garden pest – cutworms, beetles, ants, slugs, aphids, and more – it acts like a razor field. The sharp particles coat the pest's exoskeleton, absorbing its waxy outer protective layer and causing it to dehydrate, killing it quickly. It's totally natural, and totally effective.

There are a few different diatomaceous earth products on the market, and getting the right one for the job is important if you want it to work. Let's take a look at the main ways you might want to use DE, and the product best suited to each.

The Best Starter Package

If you're new to the world of diatomaceous earth and want to protect your plants easily and effectively, this kit from Harris is where to start. This 10 lb bag is food grade diatomaceous earth, which means you can use it on edibles and around children and pets. It's also OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) listed, which means it's totally compliant with organic gardening practices. And at 10 pounds, it's going to last you a long, long time.

This kit comes with a bulb applicator, which lets you puff a fine, even layer of dust onto small, hard-to-reach spots like the undersides of leaves and branch nodes, where larvae tend to hide out.

For Precision Jobs

If you're growing in containers, hanging baskets, or window boxes, you don't really need a ten pound bag of diatomaceous earth. And if you're using it near windows or doors, you definitely don't want a big cloud of powder billowing around.

That's why this powder duster is perfect. It holds a small amount of DE, but it delivers it exactly where it needs to be – around container rims, along raised bed perimeters, even up high! It has extendible nozzle attachments that reach up to four feet (1.2 m), earning it its "ground to gutter" slogan.

For Indoor/Outdoor Use

It's true that we're focusing on garden pests, but what if you want to bring your garden indoors? After all, houseplants are just as prone to pests as their outdoor cousins. This diatomaceous earth is formulated, tested, and EPA-registered for both indoor and outdoor use. It's odorless, non-staining, and free of synthetic chemicals, so you can use it indoors without worrying. Whether you have aphids on your plants or ants in your kitchen, there's no need to go and buy a whole new product. This one has you covered inside and out.

For Large-Scale Coverage

If you're dealing with a widespread outbreak in your garden or lawn, or just have a lot of ground to cover, squeeze bottles and bulb applicators aren't going to cut it. This 10 lb bag will get the job done. Made by the folks at diatomaceousearth.com, who certainly seem to know their product. (They actually recommend mixing it into your food, but I'm only here to give gardening advice, so I'm not going to weigh in on that).

Here’s a typical scenario. You worked hard to create a beautiful outdoor space to enjoy in the summer. You set up an area to enjoy the evening in the garden only to hear a buzzing in your ear. Next, you’re slapping your neck, your arm, and running inside to avoid the mosquitoes that are plaguing your yard and garden.

Mosquitoes can absolutely ruin your outdoor peace. Not only are they a nuisance, but they are also a health risk, carrying diseases that can harm both humans and pets. Successful backyard mosquito control includes several key elements, including proper plant choice.

You might not have realized it, but there are some types of plants that actually attract mosquitoes. Fortunately, there are a few steps you can take to make your outdoor space less welcoming, even if you already grow some of these plants. Here are a few of the most common culprits that could be harboring mosquitoes in your yard and what to do if you grow them.

1. Bromeliads

Bromeliads are colorful air plants that lend a tropical feel to the garden. They can grow outdoors year-round in warm climates or as houseplants that you move outside in summer in cooler climates.

Either way, if you have them in your garden, these delightful plants create cups of standing water, which is how they survive without soil. But the water, unfortunately, can become an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes. They look for still water like this to lay eggs, which can hatch in a matter of days.

There is a solution, though. Add a little oil or dish soap to the standing water to break the surface tension, so mosquitoes can’t land on it.

2. Dense Ground Covers

Ground cover plants play a very useful role in the garden, creating lawns of green where grass won’t grow or where you don’t care to mow. Many ground covers do their job well, creating dense mats of low-growing plants: pachysandra, spurge, deadnettle, and sweet woodruff, just to name a few.

But these ground covers create an ideal environment for mosquitoes who love shade, cool temperatures, and moisture. You might even get standing water under these plants that helps skeeters breed.

To manage mosquitoes in these areas, trim the plants with a string trimmer to improve airflow – here's a list of our experts' top tested trimmer tools – and inspect regularly for standing water that should be drained. Rake out any leaf litter that gets trapped under the plants, as mosquitoes love this kind of environment, too.

3. Bamboo

Bamboo can be a fun plant to grow. It’s easy, forgiving, and grows very quickly to create privacy borders and living fences. But your bamboo plants might be harboring a secret: standing water in the hollow stems that attracts mosquitoes and protects their eggs and larvae. Additionally, bamboo grows quite densely in moist conditions that mosquitoes love.

Thin out crowded bamboo canes to reduce localized moisture and improve airflow. Keep the area around the canes clear, too, by weeding and raking up fallen debris.

Remove damaged canes regularly, as these are more likely to contain standing water. When you trim canes, cut them at an angle to help water drain out. Use a sharp, clean pair of loppers, like these ones from Fiskars, to make easy cuts.

4. Hostas

Hostas are extremely popular bedding plants for several reasons. They’re easy to grow, thrive even in the deepest shade, and come in a variety of sizes and shades of green. But the issue, when it comes to mosquitoes, is that these beloved plants create the perfect environment for unwanted pests under their broad, overlapping leaves.

Although mass plantings of hostas look nice, you can minimize the ideal mosquito conditions by spacing them out. Allow for a little airflow between each plant. Also, be sure to regularly rake out debris from under the leaves.

5. Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses have become very popular in landscaping because they are generally easy to grow, offer a unique texture and look, and offer visual interest year-round. Unfortunately, when grown close together, these grasses can attract and harbor mosquitoes.

The dense growth of closely packed grasses creates areas of shade, stagnant areas, and moisture that mosquitoes love. Also, the dense grass makes it more difficult for natural predators of mosquitoes, like birds or dragonflies, to find and eat the pests.

Avoid planting ornamental grasses too close together and thin out those you already have. Trim away dead growth as it develops – a handheld hedge trimmer like this one from Amazon makes it easy – and divide mature clumps every few years. It also helps to plant ornamental grasses in areas where a breeze naturally passes through them.

6. Overgrown Shrubs

Any shrub can become a haven for mosquitoes if it becomes overgrown. Some types of shrubs are especially likely to create dense cover that provides these pests with the moisture and cool temperatures they love: boxwoods, hollies, viburnums, for instance.

The easy fix is to keep your shrubs trimmed. Prune them every year to open the canopy. Remove interior branches to reduce density. Clean up the area under shrubs to remove mosquito-harboring debris.

While certain plants tend to be very attractive to mosquitoes, you don’t have to avoid them altogether. Typically, it’s more the environment than the plant itself that causes the issue, so you can take steps to enjoy these plants while eliminating pests. Trim regularly, space plants adequately, check for and remove standing water, and you can naturally get rid of mosquitoes in your yard.

Shop Mosquito-Repelling Essentials

Can you use flour to deter garden pests? That's the question everyone's asking at the moment, thanks to some pretty bold claims on social media.

Honestly, every week it feels like the online masses find a new kitchen staple that's apparently destined to become the next miracle gardening hack. I've seen cinnamon, banana peels, coffee grounds and baking soda all have their moment in the spotlight. Now, though, it's the turn of plain old flour.

Video after video has shown gardeners dusting it over their plants, with some even sprinkling it across flower beds, claiming it keeps pests away without using chemicals. All of which sounds... well, highly unlikely. Then again, stranger garden hacks have turned out to contain at least a tiny grain of truth.

So naturally, I did what I always do when the internet starts making bold gardening claims. I turned to my husband, who just so happens to be an RHS-trained professional gardener with over two decades of experience under his toolbelt.

Can You Use Flour To Deter Garden Pests?

My moment of curiosity happened halfway through an episode of Taskmaster (you know how it is), which meant I paused the TV, asked whether I should start throwing flour around the garden, and was met with the sort of long sigh that suggested I had committed a cardinal sin by interrupting Greg Davies.

Once my husband had accepted that the episode wasn't restarting until he'd answered my question, though, he admitted the internet wasn't completely wrong.

"There's a grain of truth to it," he told me. "But it's one of those hacks that's been stretched so far online that people think it's a miracle cure, when really it only has a very limited use."

According to my husband, plain all-purpose flour can sometimes help against small, soft-bodied pests like aphids, cabbage loppers, and some mites.

"The flour isn't poisoning anything," he explained. "It's purely mechanical. When tiny insects feed on leaves coated with flour, the starch mixes with moisture from their mouthparts and digestive system, creating a sticky paste that makes feeding much more difficult."

Eyes flickering between me and the paused television, he rolled his eyes as he realized I needed more. "It's a similar idea to using food-grade diatomaceous earth as a physical barrier rather than a chemical pesticide," he added.

The important word there? Sometimes.

"It's only really effective as a very light dusting in dry weather," he said. "As soon as it gets damp, most of the benefits disappear."

And this is where his enthusiasm disappeared completely, as my husband pointed out that flour is (whether we'd happily chow down on it ourselves or not) food. "If you're scattering it around your garden, don't be surprised if mice, rats or other hungry visitors decide you've laid out a free buffet," he warned

Warming to his theme of 'don't you dare use flour to deter garden pests in our yard, Kayleigh', he moved onto the not-so-little issue of the weather.

"If flour gets wet, it it turns into glue," he said. "You end up with this sticky paste coating the leaves, trapping moisture against the plant. And that's exactly the sort of environment fungal diseases love."

My husband also pointed out that flour washes away surprisingly quickly, which means you'd need to keep reapplying it after rain or even heavy dew.

"And if you get a bit overenthusiastic," he added, "you can end up coating the leaves so heavily that you're blocking sunlight and making it harder for the plant to photosynthesize. That's hardly helping, is it?"

So if you can't use flour to deter garden pests, what should you use instead? Well, his answer came without hesitation: food-grade diatomaceous earth.

"It works on the same basic principle, as it's a physical barrier rather than a poison, but it doesn't become a sticky mess or invite rodents into the garden," he said promisingly.

Shop Essentials for Deterring Garden Pests:

For gardeners dealing with aphids, he also recommends starting with the gentlest solutions first, such as a strong jet of water, encouraging beneficial insects like ladybugs, or simply tolerating small numbers of pests where possible.

As is so often the case with gardening hacks, the viral version isn't completely made up, but it usually leaves out the important part. In this case, flour can have a small (albeit temporary effect) on certain pests under very specific conditions, but it's far from the miracle cure social media sometimes makes it out to be

Personally, I think I'll save the flour for baking... and let my husband get back to Taskmaster in peace.

No gardener wants to need a hazmat suit to handle the spray they’re using for their tomatoes, especially when you’re going to be eating them. Lucky for us, organic pest control has come a really long way! Now, there are products available that are effective, widely available, and gentle enough to use on your veggies right up until the day you want to harvest them.

Whether you're battling aphids on your roses, slugs on your lettuce, deer in your vegetable patch, or something crawling where it shouldn't be, there's an organic solution for it. For a broader overview of your options, check out our guide to natural pest control in an organic garden before you shop.

Below are six products that actually deliver on their promise.

Show of hands: who likes mosquitoes? If you raised your hand, I don't know how to help you. If, like me, you're always on the lookout for a new way to get them far away from you and your backyard, you'll want to read this.

There's a lot of buzz (get it?) recently around coffee and its possible mosquito-repelling properties. But where does it all come from? And is there any actual science behind it? Let's take a dive into this unusual method of backyard mosquito control.

How to Repel Mosquitos with Coffee

If you do some digging around the internet, you'll quickly find that the best way to repel mosquitos with coffee is to burn the spent grounds. (I've noticed coffee companies are especially eager to tell you this, so read into that what you will).

Here are the steps:

1. After brewing, spread grounds into a thin layer on a sheet of aluminum foil.
2. Leave the foil in the sun for a day to allow the grounds to dry out completely. (Make sure it's out of the wind!)
3. Scoop a few spoonfuls of dry grounds into a fireproof bowl. You can get one on Amazon, or just make a simple one out of foil.
4. Place the bowl near where you'll be spending time, preferably upwind.
5. Using a match or lighter, light the grounds in the center of the saucer.
6. Allow the grounds to smolder, sit back, and enjoy your mosquito-free outdoor space.

Does This Actually Work?

It's not at all hard to do this routine. The question is, does it do anything? In a word... maybe.

There has been some research to support the use of coffee grounds to repel mosquitoes, but it's a little dubious. According to this study published in 2015, water with a high concentration of coffee in it does deter female mosquitoes from laying eggs. Here's what the study has to say:

"Oviposition responses were extremely low when ovicups holding highly concentrated extract (HCE) of coffee were the only oviposition sites... Larval eclosion occurred at lower rates among eggs that matured in a coffee environment, especially among those that were maintained on HCE-moistened substrates."

In other words, female mosquitoes will actively avoid laying eggs in water containing coffee, and eggs that are laid in coffee are less likely to hatch. That seems promising, doesn't it? It is promising... if you want to cut down on overall mosquito populations. Unfortunately, it won't do anything to drive away the ones that already live in your yard.

If you do want to take a bite out of future mosquito generations, there are much more effective ways to do it than leaving out cups of coffee all over the garden. The best thing you can do is buy a pack of mosquito dunks for less than $10 on Amazon. Mosquito dunks work on a similar but fundamentally different principle to the coffee extract used in the study above. They're made with the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (BTi), which targets mosquito larvae and kills them before they get a chance to take off and buzz in your ear.

To get the most out of your mosquito dunks, use them to make a mosquito bucket of doom.

Should You Burn Coffee Grounds to Repel Mosquitoes?

So what about burning coffee grounds? Does it do anything at all? It might, but the truth is it's going to have just about as much effect as burning anything else. Smoke masks human odors, and it makes the air harder to breathe, so mosquitoes (and pretty much all bugs) steer clear of it. To that end, it's more about the smell you like the most. If you love the smell of burning coffee in the morning, then have at it! Otherwise, maybe stick to the citronella candles.

Other Forms of Mosquito Control

You don’t want to be swatting flies constantly, but you also don’t want your patio to look like a bug research facility. The standard arsenal, i.e., zappers, sticky traps, and chemical sprays, is just not attractive, and that means gardeners are often forced to choose between enjoying their outdoor space and protecting it.

Luckily, you don’t have to make that choice, as there are 3 patio features that pull double duty so you barely notice the pest control side of things. For more on the most common flying pests you're likely to be dealing with this summer, check out our guide to the most common garden pests before you shop.

1. Pest-Repellent Container Plants

The easiest and prettiest solution to annoying bugs on a patio is also the most overlooked: the right plants, positioned in the right place, can act as a natural deterrent without a single spray or chemical in sight. Mosquitoes, flies, and wasps fly through their environment mostly by scent, and there are some plants with a smell that actively disrupts their ability to locate you.

Lavender, lemongrass, citronella geranium, rosemary, and basil are the heavy hitters. Planted in pots and placed close to seating areas, they release enough fragrance on a warm evening to make your patio way less appealing to anything that might want to sting or bite you. The effect is even stronger if you pinch a few leaves or even brush past them; this will cause the plants to release oils into the air around you.

The most important thing is placement. A single pot in the corner of the garden isn’t going to do much. You’ll need to cluster three or four aromatic plants close to where you sit and eat, and ideally create a small border around the area. You can even mix different species for more pest coverage: lemongrass targets mosquitoes, while lavender works on moths and flies, and rosemary deters cabbage moths and carrot flies in addition to general flying pests.

2. Sheer Mosquito Net Curtains

This is a patio feature that looks like it came straight from a resort in Bali. Plus, it happens to be one of the most effective physical barriers against flying insects available. Sheer mesh curtain panels hung from a pergola, gazebo, or porch roof create a sort of outdoor room that keeps mosquitoes, midges, and flies out while letting light, air, and the view completely through.

The visuals are actually super beautiful. The soft, billowing fabric creates a lovely light in the evening, a sense of enclosure that makes the space feel more intimate and designed, and as a bonus, provides privacy from neighbors. In reality, though, it's simply a curtain rod and some lightweight polyester mesh.

The real trick is the density of the mesh. Unfortunately, standard garden netting has holes large enough for small insects to pass through, but proper mosquito curtain fabric uses a tighter weave (around 970 holes per square inch) that blocks even the smallest flying pests while remaining breathable and see-through. Look for panels that are waterproof-coated so they survive a summer of outdoor use, machine washable, and are large enough to drape properly.

3. The Thermacell Patio Shield

This one doesn't look like much, but it packs a punch! It’s just a small, palm-sized device you place in the center of your table, but it's the closest thing to invisible pest control available. It works so well that it’s the go-to recommendation from outdoor entertaining professionals. The Thermacell Patio Shield uses a heat-activated repellent mat powered by a compact butane cartridge to diffuse a scent-free, DEET-free zone of mosquito protection fifteen feet in every direction. No smoke, no smell, no sprays, no visible effort. Simply set it in the middle of the table, wait fifteen minutes, and you’re good.

The reason it earns its place in a "beautiful patio features" list is precisely that it doesn't look like pest control. The brushed metal edition in particular looks like a small table accessory. It's the kind of thing your guests notice and ask about, not something you hide behind a citronella candle. The repellent mats change color when it's time to replace them, which is super handy, and each fuel cartridge runs for twelve hours.

Note: Position it upwind of where you're sitting for maximum effect; keep it away from strong breezes that reduce the protection zone. You can pair it with a border of lavender and lemongrass for a real pest management strategy.

Wilting might be the least useful symptom in the garden. It's how a plant says something is wrong, and that's about as specific as it gets. A tomato that's merely hot and a tomato with fungus clogging its plumbing look identical at three in the afternoon, which is exactly why so many gardeners water the second one until it dies faster.

Then again, gardening in a heat wave means treating a certain amount of afternoon flop as ordinary. Leaves droop because the plant has closed its stomata and quit transpiring until conditions improve, so the sag is a defense, not a distress call. The question worth answering isn't whether a plant wilts. It's whether it comes back.

Start with the Sunset Test

Go back out at dusk, or first thing the next morning, and look at the same plant. Heat stress lets go once the sun is off it. Roots catch up with what the leaves lost, turgor returns, and something that looked finished in the afternoon is standing there come nighttime like nothing happened. That's the entire test, and it costs nothing. Give it a full hour past sundown before drawing any conclusion, since dry soil slows recovery even in a healthy plant.

A plant still slumped at sunrise, after twelve hours of cool air and no sun at all, has a problem that has nothing to do with weather. The in-between case matters too. A plant that bounces back a little less each morning is on a slow slide, and the pattern shows up over three or four days rather than in a single look. Take a photo each morning if the difference is too subtle to hold in your head.

Wilting in Wet Soil Is a Contradiction

Soggy ground and a drooping plant should not go together, and when they do, the roots are the story. Root rot organisms – mainly Phytophthora and Pythium species – thrive in saturated soil and destroy the fine feeder roots that do the actual drinking. What's left can't pull water even while sitting in it. The wilt looks like drought because, from the plant's side, it is drought. An XLUX long-probe soil moisture meter from Amazon settles the question in seconds at root depth, where a finger can't reach.

Confirming it means getting your hands dirty. Scrape back the soil at the base and pull a few roots. Healthy roots are firm and pale, and they snap. Rotted roots turn brown or gray, go soft, and the outer layer slides off between your fingers and leaves a bare thread behind. That smell of stagnant pond water is the other giveaway. Container plants sitting in saucers are the usual victims, though heavy clay after a wet stretch does the same job. Peppers and squash collapse within days once it takes hold, while shrubs can carry the damage quietly for a season.

One Branch, One Side, One Piece

Vascular wilts operate differently, and they're the ones that earn the word sinister. Verticillium dahliae and Fusarium oxysporum live in the soil, enter through the roots, and grow upward inside the xylem – the plumbing itself. The plant fights back by plugging infected vessels with gums and tyloses, and in doing so it seals off the pipes it needs. Water stops moving. The leaves get the message before the rest of the plant does.

Asymmetry is the tell. Heat hits the whole plant at once, while a vascular wilt starts with a single branch and leaves everything around it looking fine for days. Sometimes the split is narrower – half a stem, or one wedge of a leaf going yellow while the rest of it stays green. Yellowing that climbs from the bottom and then stalls halfway counts too. Fusarium tends to move in hot weather and Verticillium in milder spells, though both settle into the soil for years once they arrive. The same bed keeps producing the same sad tomato.

Cut the Stem and Look

There's a diagnostic that beats guessing. Slice through a wilted stem a few inches above the soil line with a hand pruner like this from Home Depot, then look at the cut face. Cream-colored tissue all the way around points back at heat or a watering problem. Brown or tan streaking in the ring just under the bark is vascular disease, and no amount of water fixes that.

Wipe the blades down with 70% isopropyl alcohol (you can get it from Walmart) before touching another plant, since pruners carry these fungi from one stem to the next easily. Neither wilt has a cure once it's in a plant. Pull it, bag it, and keep it out of the compost, then put something unrelated in that spot for a few years – corn, beans, and grasses shrug both of them off. Resistant varieties exist for tomatoes, and the letters on the tag earn their keep here. A “V” stands for Verticillium and an “F” for Fusarium. Until then, the plant tells you which one it is by sundown – every time, for free.

There really is a special kind of misery that comes from eating ice cream on a warm summer day, only to have a wasp start attacking your hand. Or, you’re setting up the perfect little outdoor table full of cold drinks and your garden is actually looking stunning, only to spend the whole afternoon flinching every time something black and yellow buzzes past your ear.

Wasps have a real talent for ruining a lovely afternoon. Fortunately, trapping them has become significantly easier than most people think. There is no shortage of products that actually work without all the chemicals or bravery needed when you don’t want to get stung. If you prefer to go the DIY route first, we've got a great guide to homemade wasp traps. But if you'd rather just buy something that works right now, here are the best options available.

A note before you buy: Placement matters as much as the trap itself. All of these should be hung at least 20 feet away from where you're sitting, as the goal is to draw wasps toward the trap and away from you, not hang it over the potato salad. Hang them at eye level or slightly above, in areas that seem to draw a lot of wasps, and replace or refresh the bait about every two weeks.

Wasps have a habit of rebuilding where a colony already did well. Filling that eave or porch corner with strongly scented plants makes the address far less appealing, and the right picks hold that line into fall.

Take down a nest in July and the problem looks solved. The site itself doesn't change, though. It stays dry and sheltered, out of the wind, and that is the short list a queen scouts for come early spring. She isn't looking for the old paper. She's looking for the eave.

Hanging something in that space works better than leaving it open. Plants that repel wasps do double duty here. They take up the real estate and put a strong fragrance right where a scout would land. None of this amounts to a force field, and an established colony won't be bothered by any of it. Occupancy is the point. A queen looking for a vacancy shouldn't find one. What you're doing is changing the site from empty shelter to active, occupied space.

6 Plants To Hang Where a Wasp Nest Used To Be

Aroma does the work, so these should be within arm's reach — a pinch or a brush in passing releases far more oil than a plant sitting undisturbed. A coco coir-lined hanging basket from Amazon is a simple way to get them up at eave height, where air moves through the foliage and keeps the scent at the site rather than four feet below it.

1. Spearmint

Mint plants get recommended for nearly every pest problem, which makes the suggestion easy to wave off. Spearmint (Mentha spicata) earns it here. Menthol content runs high enough that wasps tend to give it room, and the plant is hardy clear through USDA zones 3 to 11. It also spreads aggressively, so a basket is the practical way to keep it. Full sun to part shade, steady moisture, and a hard cutback whenever it turns scraggly is all it takes. Pinch a few stems every time you pass, though, as the fragrance fades within a day or so otherwise. You can find a 2-pack of spearmint plants from Lowe's.

2. Wormwood

Bitter is the whole point of wormwood (Artemisia absinthium). Chemical compounds absinthin and thujone sit in that silvery foliage, and very little chews on it or settles in near it. Hardy in zones 4 through 9, it wants full sun and soil that drains fast. Soggy roots will kill it quicker than winter will.

Water sparingly once it's established, then shear it in spring so it doesn't go woody and open in the middle. Keep it clear of tender neighbors, too. The roots leach compounds that can stunt what's planted alongside, so planting in a basket or container by itself is ideal. MARS Gardens on Etsy has 1-gallon wormwood 'Powis Castle' plants for sale.

3. Common Thyme

Thymol turns up in a fair number of commercial repellents, which is reason enough to hang the herb it comes from. Common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) trails over a basket edge and takes zones 5 to 9 without much complaint. Full sun. Gritty soil, sparse water — it sulks in rich compost and rots outright in wet feet. Trim after flowering to stop the stems going bare and hard at the base, which is quick work with a sharp pair of bypass pruning shears from Home Depot. Skip that trim two years running and you're basically starting over.

4. Lemongrass

Citronella has a branding problem. The plant sold under that name is a scented geranium with very little perfume to it, while the real source sits much closer to lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) — loaded with citral and citronellal, and pungent the moment a leaf gets bruised. Perennial only in zones 9 to 11, so north of that it's a summer container that comes indoors before frost. It prefers full sun, generous water, and a pot bigger than looks necessary. It grows fast enough to fill a basket by August. Overwintered inside, it looks rough by March, but it does recover. Get a lemongrass plant delivered straight to your door from Fast Growing Trees.

5. Silver Dollar Eucalyptus

Florists hang eucalyptus in showers because steam drags the oil out of the leaves. A hot July eave does something close to the same thing. Eucalyptus cinerea holds in zones 8 through 11 and is usually grown as a container annual north of there, in full sun with soil kept on the dry side. Pinch the tips or it goes leggy in a hurry. Cut stems keep throwing scent for weeks after they dry, so a bundle tacked near the old site is a reasonable stopgap while a live plant fills in. Silver dollar eucalyptus plants are available from Etsy through Droke's Greenhouse, a certified nursery.

6. French Marigold

Planted for color, and working for wasp control on the side, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) carry their pungency in the foliage rather than the flowers. Their scent is strongest in afternoon heat, right when scouting activity picks up. Marigolds are annual everywhere, though they'll self-sow in mild zones. You can pick up a 4-pack of marigolds from the Home Depot.

These want full sun, deadheading through summer, and less water than seems right. Overfed plants give more leaf and less aroma. Mounting height does matter — wall-mounted plant hanger brackets from Walmart put the basket up under the eave rather than well below it.

Warm nights, humid afternoons, and a canopy that has closed in. Midsummer hands fungal and bacterial diseases everything they need to thrive. Here are six turning up in vegetable beds right now, and what actually works against each one.

July is when the vegetable garden stops looking like a magazine spread. The plants are big, the canopy has closed in, and somewhere down in that green tangle a leaf has gone spotty. Warm nights and humid afternoons are perfect conditions for fungal and bacterial trouble, and once it takes hold in a crowded bed it moves fast, usually faster than anybody notices.

Catching it early is the whole game. A lot of common vegetable garden diseases and pests announce themselves on a handful of lower leaves before the plant is really in danger, and pulling those leaves plus a well-timed spray is often enough to hold the line. Wait until half the plant is yellow and you're no longer treating anything, just managing a loss.

6 Vegetable Diseases to Deal With This Month

The six below are the ones turning up in July plots across a lot of climates. Each has a tell, and each has a response that works if you get control of it soon enough.

1. Early Blight

Dark spots with concentric rings inside them (like a tiny target) showing up on the oldest, lowest leaves of a tomato or potato. Those rings mean early blight (Alternaria solani). Around each spot the leaf goes yellow, and it keeps going until the leaf gives up and falls, and the fungus is already working on the one above it by then. It overwinters in soil and old plant debris, so rain and hose water splashing up onto the bottom leaves are how it gets started every year.

Snip off affected leaves the moment they turn up, and don't compost them. Mulch under the plants blocks the splash. If it's spreading, this copper fungicide from Home Depot is approved for organic gardens and can go on right up to harvest.

2. Septoria Leaf Spot

People mix this one up with early blight, understandably. Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) puts out smaller spots, rounder, and a lot of them — you might count dozens on one leaf, pale gray in the middle with a dark rim around the edge. Tomatoes get it the worst.

Timing is the cruel part, since it tends to show up just as the fruit is sizing up, and a plant that has lost its leaves isn't ripening much of anything. Handle it the way you'd handle early blight. Strip the infected foliage off, water down at soil level rather than over the top, thin out whatever stems are crowding each other so air can move. Copper fungicide will slow the spread. It won't do anything for a leaf that's already spotted.

3. Powdery Mildew

Squash, cucumbers, and melons pick this up almost every summer. What you're looking at is powdery mildew (Podosphaera xanthii), and it really does look like somebody spilled flour on the leaves — a few dusty patches at first, then those patches grow into each other until the surface has gone chalky all over.

Unusual among these, it doesn't need wet leaves to spread. Humid air and shade will do, which is why it settles into the middle of a dense plant. Leaves brown out eventually and the fruit underneath ripens poorly. Pull the worst leaves, open the plant up, and treat the rest. Bonide's neem oil from Amazon works as a fungicide and a miticide at once, which is handy in a bed that has both problems going.

4. Downy Mildew

This is a different disease entirely, despite the name. Downy mildew (Pseudoperonospora cubensis) turns up as yellow patches on cucumber and melon leaves, oddly angular ones, boxed in by the veins on either side. Flip a leaf over on a damp morning and there's fuzzy gray or purple growth underneath. Basil downy mildew will also tear through your herb garden if left untreated.

It moves quicker than powdery mildew does, and unlike its namesake it wants moisture. Once a plant has it, there's no real cure, which leaves protection as the only move. Give plants room, keep water off the foliage, and get a preventive fungicide onto the healthy leaves nearby before spores ever land on them.

5. Bacterial Leaf Spot

Peppers and tomatoes both get bacterial leaf spot (Xanthomonas spp.). It's the nastier problem of the bunch, mainly because bacteria shrug off the fungicides that handle everything else here. Early on the spots look small and dark, sort of water-soaked, sometimes ringed by a yellow halo. On the fruit they harden into raised scabs.

Splashing water carries it, and so do hands and tools working through wet foliage, which is reason enough to stay out of the bed until things dry off. Copper fungicide is about the only chemical option, and even then it's protecting healthy tissue rather than fixing what's damaged. Anything badly infected is better pulled than nursed.

6. Fusarium Wilt

Watch for a plant that wilts on one side through the hot part of the afternoon, comes back overnight, then does it again the next day. Give it a week and that branch is dead and yellow while the rest of the plant carries on like nothing happened. Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) is down in the soil, and it works from the inside — clogging the tissue that carries water up through the stem. Cut a wilted stem open lengthwise and there it is, a brown streak just beneath the skin.

Nothing cures it. Once that fungus is in a bed it stays for years, so what's left is choosing resistant varieties and rotating crops, along with keeping plants out of the drought stress that seems to invite it in the first place.

Hot, dry weather is exactly what spider mites wait for. Populations explode fast, and the damage usually shows before the mites themselves do, which makes catching them early the difference between a quick fix and a lost plant.

Many people never see a spider mite. What they notice is the plant going downhill, and by then the mites have usually been at work a while. They're not even insects, strictly speaking — arachnids is the accurate word, more of a cousin to spiders than to the aphids everyone knows to watch for. The harm is in how they eat: they punch into plant cells one by one and drain them, and enough of that leaves foliage looking bleached and worn out, almost sunburned.

Hot, dry stretches are when spider mites tip from annoying into a real problem. They tear through generations in warm, dry air, sometimes a whole one inside a week, which is how a handful in June turns into a mess by August. Drought stacks it further as thirsty plants are easier to feed on. And the same heat tends to knock out the predators that might've kept things in check otherwise.

Why Hot, Dry Weather Sets Them Off

The one gardeners tangle with most is usually the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), and it happens to love the precise weather a heat wave hands it. Warmth is the accelerant. A generation that drags out two or three weeks in cool spring air can finish in five to seven days once temperatures push into the 80s and 90s (27 to 35C) during a summer heat wave. Each female lays dozens of eggs on top of that, so the numbers snowball before you can even realize what's happening.

Low humidity is the other half of the story. Dry air means fewer mites get taken out by the fungal diseases that usually thin their ranks, so more of them pull through. Dry conditions can also encourage them.

As water levels drop, sap becomes more concentrated, potentially making feeding easier for these pests. And the predators that keep a normal summer in balance — predatory mites and lady beetle larvae mainly — have gone into hiding in a long heat spell, right when they'd be doing the most good.

How to Spot Spider Mites

The first thing to turn up usually isn't the mites, it's the stippling. It shows up as fine, pale yellow or white dots scattered over the top of the leaves like someone dabbed them with a pin. Every speck marks a spot where cells got emptied. Leave it and it spreads, whole leaves going bronze or yellow and falling, the plant appearing dry and dusty even after a good watering.

Webbing near the bases of leaves means the numbers are already up there. That fine silk, usually found underneath the leaves and around the new tips, is the colony giving itself away.

The fastest check for spider mites: hold a white sheet of paper under a leaf you're unsure about and tap it. Specks that land and then start moving are your answer. A hand lens earns its place here, since at real size the mites can be barely visible. If you don't already have a magnifying glass laying around, you can find one cheaply on Amazon.

How to Treat a Spider Mite Infestation

Water is the first move, which sounds too basic to do much. But a strong blast from the hose, driven into the undersides where they gather, knocks a big share of them off and shreds the webbing while it's at it.

Repeat it every few days and the population never quite recovers its footing. It's no cure on its own. What it does is thin them out and buy some time before the stronger treatments come into play. Cranking up the humidity around the plant leans on them as well, damp air being roughly the last thing they want.

For whatever holds on, insecticidal soap from Amazon is the standard next move, smothering mites wherever it makes contact. The issue is that it only acts where the spray actually reaches, so getting up under the leaves is the bulk of the job. You can also make a DIY insecticidal soap and apply it with a small pump sprayer from Amazon handles that far better than a trigger bottle.

There's also neem oil from Amazon which disrupts feeding and breeding across a few rounds instead of all at once. Whichever way it goes, spray in the evening or under cloud, because soap or oil in full sun ends in scorched leaves.

Keep Spider Mites From Coming Back

A lot of prevention is just refusing to provide them the dry, dusty conditions they thrive on. A plant kept watered through a heat wave isn't stressed the same way, which makes it a tougher target from the outset. Rinsing the leaves off now and again drops the dust and nudges the humidity up, both working against them. None of it is a dramatic change in routine. Across a whole summer, though, that small routine stuff is what keeps the numbers from stacking up.

New plants deserve a second glance, since mites love to slip in on something from the nursery and spread from there. Flip a few leaves and check underneath before it joins everything else. And if the same infestation keeps returning no matter what, releasing predatory mites can sometimes settle it for good. It’s slower than grabbing a spray, but they tend to stay around for a while once they get established.

I grow heaps of catnip in my garden, so when I read new research that suggests the plant's oil is as effective at repelling mosquitoes as DEET, I didn’t hesitate to make my own skidaddle-you-skeeters spray. It was quick, easy and once I’d tried it out, I had to agree with those scientists. Catnip does seem to keep mozzies away.

In the 2025 study, its findings published this year in Scientific Reports journal, scientists tested how mosquitoes responded to various substances: a hand lotion infused with 6% catnip oil, the same lotion with 2% catnip oil, a commercially available repellent containing 15% DEET, and plain lotion to act as a control. In field trials with real-life humans, the lotion with 6% catnip oil proved just as effective as the DEET repellent; the lotion with a 2% concentration repelled skeeters a little less, but scientists still rated it ‘highly effective’.

I much prefer natural pest solutions over chemical ones, and I already make an effective skeeter trap with baking soda and vinegar. So, as I'm already growing catnip (Nepeta cataria) – one of three plants I grow for my cats in my garden – using the leaves to make my own natural mosquito repellent was a no-brainer.

It makes sense that catnip could repel skeeters as it contains high levels of a compound called nepetalactone, which it’s thought the plant has evolved to repel pests. My cats seem to subscribe to the theory, anyway, as they like to roll on the plants as if they’ve read the online blurb that this could afford some natural protection against fleas. And what do you know, with a little digging, I discovered that catnip is registered as an insect repellent with the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

It was time to cook up a batch of catnip-leaf mozzie repellent spray and test out its properties for myself.

How to Make Natural Catnip Mozzie Repellent

1. Pick a cup of fresh catnip leaves. It’s important the plants haven’t been treated with any pesticides. Crush the leaves with the back of a tablespoon.

2. Scrape the crushed leaves into a small heatproof bowl and pour over 1 cup just-boiled water. Place a plate on top of the bowl so steam can’t escape and leave to steep for an hour.

3. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve, muslin cloth or a coffee filter, pressing or squeezing the leaves to extract as much moisture as possible.

4. Discard the plant matter and pour the strained liquid into a clean spray bottle. Store in the fridge where it will keep for 1-2 weeks; adding a tablespoon of straight vodka to the strained liquid will extend its shelf life.

As with any new topical skin product, spot-test the spray on a small area of your skin before using, to ensure it doesn’t cause irritation. Shake the bottle well before each use. Apply to skin, being careful to keep well away from eyes. Reapply frequently and gauge for yourself how effective the spray is at repelling mosquitoes.

If you have cats, expect company as felines adore the scent of catnip.

Does Catnip Mozzie Repellent Spray Work?

While steeping catnip leaves doesn’t extract nepetalactone as effectively as distilling, I found that while I was spritzed with my homemade spray, I wasn’t bothered by mosquitoes. Aware that natural repellents don’t last as long as chemical alternatives, I reapplied every couple of hours.

I’ve been testing the DIY spray in my garden while gardening and relaxing on the patio. If you are heading into an area heavily infested with mosquitoes, or it’s known that mosquitoes in your area carry a pathogen such as West Nile virus, that’s not the time to be testing out a homemade spray – use a commercially available repellent that's proven to work.

I found the spray has a mild earthy fragrance, which I found neither pleasant nor unpleasant. Thanks to the scent, my cats were especially fond of me though!

Other natural ways to deal with mosquitoes in your garden include using potted patio plants with mozzie-repelling scents, and setting up a mosquito bucket of doom.

Is Catnip Safe to Put On Your Skin?

The United States Environmental Protection Agency has confirmed Nepeta cataria essential oil is safe for human use. Studies show that, even when applied to skin at a 25% concentration, it doesn’t cause irritation.

How to Grow Catnip

While catnip (Nepeta cataria) is never going to win any prizes for its flowers, with regular snipping of the stems, it grows into a pretty-enough potful of leaves on the patio. Don't confuse catnip with catmint, though both are closely related. Catnip has much higher concentrations of nepetalactone, though catmint does still contain this compound.

A hardy perennial in zones 3-9, growing catnip is easy. It's quick to raise from seed or economical to buy as young plants, and both catnip seeds and catnip plants are available from Lowes. It’s important to grow this member of the mint family in a container set on hard landscaping as, like many of its cousins, it’s too vigorous to grow in the ground in most gardens. It needs well-draining conditions so mix a handful of sand, gravel or horticultural grit such as this from Amazon into any multipurpose potting soil, or use a moisture-control compost such as this, also from Amazon.

Nepeta cataria is enthusiastic enough to thrive in partial shade as well as full sun and is drought-tolerant so be careful not to overwater. It grows to 2½ feet high and has white or pale pink flowers, sometimes dotted with purple. It tends to have straggly stems, but pinching off the tips encourages it to grow into a dense, bushy mound of foliage.

What the Research Report Said

The report (Evaluating repellence properties of a catnip essential oil-based mosquito repellent using the human landing catch method in Eastern Uganda by Charles Batume et al) states that lotions containing both 2% and 6% catnip oil was highly effective at preventing mosquito landing, and recommended their use as a natural alternative to synthetic mosquito repellents. With the research carried out in 2025, the findings were published in the March 2026 Scientific Reports journal.

The catnip oil used in the research comprised of 92% nepetalactone and was derived from mature Nepeta cataria plants grown outside with 12 hours of sunlight a day. The plant material was dried before being distilled, to extract pure essential oil.

The report referred to previous studies that found that nepetalactone repelled several mosquito species, ticks, red poultry mites and bed bugs.

A bird bath is not only a beautiful addition to any landscape, but it also benefits local and migrating birds who need a relaxing spot to cool off and hydrate during the hot summer months. There is one big problem, however, that you need to be aware of before adding a bird bath to your yard or garden: mosquitoes.

Any standing water in your yard can quickly become a breeding ground for mosquitoes – and that includes bird baths. Figuring out how to prevent mosquitoes in a bird bath is yet another item on the ever-growing garden to-do list. But there’s one affordable item that can make the job a bit easier and turn your bird bath into a gorgeous mini water fountain that birds adore and that adds the soothing sound of trickling water to your garden.

A solar-powered fountain from Amazon costs less than $10 and stops mosquitoes from turning your bird bath into their own personal breeding pool. If you’re considering adding a bird bath to your yard or already have one that’s full of mosquito larvae, here’s how to turn your bath into a bug-free fountain that birds will love even more.

Why Bird Baths Attract Mosquitoes

Mosquitoes lay eggs and develop larvae in or near standing water. Bird baths make the ideal spot for breeding mosquitoes because they are shallow vessels of stationary water. Add in debris like fallen leaves, dirt, algae, and warm summer temperatures and you have a prime environment for mosquito larvae to pupate and grow.

Standing water is one of the main requirements for breeding mosquitoes and it only takes five days for your bird bath to turn into an insect incubator. So to keep them free of mosquitoes, you need to change out the water in bird baths once every few days or find a way to keep the watering moving. That’s where a solar-powered fountain comes in handy.

How a Solar Fountain Stops Mosquitoes

This solar-powered fountain from Amazon only costs around $10 and keeps water moving in bird baths and prevents mosquitoes from breeding. A small fountain like this is a simple way to turn a stagnant bath into a beautiful showpiece in your garden that also stops mosquitoes.

Another option is to add a water agitator to your bird bath, but a solar fountain has another additional benefit. It adds the soothing sound of running water into your landscape, turning a basic bird bath into a lovely sensory garden feature.

Adding a fountain to your bird bath can also attract more birds. Birds love moving water – it more closely resembles a natural water source like a stream – so you should have more birds and less mosquitoes in your bath when you pop a solar fountain into your bath.

To add a solar-powered fountain to a bird bath, all you have to do is place it in a bird bath in a sunny location where it will receive charge and power the motor. Keep your bird bath clean of fallen debris like leaves that can cover the solar panels and prevent the fountain from charging. You also need to regularly clean the filter to keep water flowing.

Your bird bath also needs to have enough water in it to submerge the motor of the solar fountain. Basically, keep your bird bath clean and full of water in order for the solar fountain to function properly. You should be able to wait a few more days between changing out the water in your bird bath with the addition of a solar fountain, without the risk of mosquitoes breeding.

More Ways to Keep Mosquitoes at Bay

I've always had a bit of an understanding with the squirrels that visit my garden. They don't cause too much trouble, and in return, I don't let my overzealous lurcher out if I spot one happily wandering across the lawn.

It might sound silly, but I quite enjoy watching them scamper along the fence or bury the odd acorn before disappearing again. And, to be fair to my local squirrels, they know which side their bread is buttered (or should that be, which side their nut is buttered?), as they prefer to keep their visits fleeting so as not to run into my aforementioned mutt.

Not everyone has a squirrel-deterring dog at their disposal, though. My mother-in-law and several of my neighbors, for example, have spent years trying to stop squirrels from digging up flower beds, nibbling vegetables, and unearthing newly planted bulbs. Rather than turning to traps or chemical repellents, they've had surprising success with a much prettier (and much more natural) solution: marigolds.

Do Marigolds Really Deter Squirrels?

Marigolds, you say? Deter squirrels, you gasp? Yes, while these cheerful flowers have long been a staple in cottage gardens and vegetable patches, they're more than just a colorful annual. Many gardeners believe marigolds can help deter squirrels and other unwanted visitors, all thanks to their distinctive scent.

Now, a caveat before we delve any deeper; the scientific evidence specifically linking marigolds to squirrel deterrence is scanty. Still, the idea has been passed down among gardeners for generations, and all hinges on the fact that these pretty flowers produce a strong aroma – one that some people believe squirrels find so unpleasant that it encourages them to forage elsewhere.

Whether it's the scent itself or simply the fact that marigolds are often planted as part of a diverse and healthy garden (they make excellent companion plants!), plenty of gardeners say they've noticed fewer curious diggers after adding them to their beds.

That makes marigolds an easy, low-risk option to try if you want to deter squirrels in a kinder, more natural way. They're inexpensive, easy to grow from seed (we love the Burpee range of marigold seeds) or young plants, and bloom for months with very little fuss.

Better still, they're loved by bees, butterflies, and other beneficial pollinators (including your birth month bug), which means they can support the wider health of your garden while potentially helping to keep squirrels at bay.

If squirrels are constantly digging up bulbs or helping themselves to your vegetable patch, try planting marigolds around the edges of raised beds and vegetable gardens.

It is also a good shout to plant them bear tulips, crocuses, and other bulbs squirrels love to dig up, along pathways and garden borders, or in containers in spots where squirrels often wander. French marigolds (like these HOME GROWN Petite French Marigold Seeds) are often recommended because they have a particularly strong fragrance, although any marigold variety can make a striking addition to sunny borders.

All that being said, marigolds aren't a magic fix; hungry squirrels are remarkably persistent, especially in late summer and fall when they're busy storing food for winter. Still, as part of a wildlife-friendly approach that also includes clearing up fallen birdseed, protecting newly planted bulbs with wire mesh, and reducing easy food sources, they may help make your garden a less inviting place for these bushy-tailed vagrants to linger.

Shop Three More Plants That Help Deter Squirrels:

One of the nicest things about planting marigolds is that, even if they don't solve your squirrel problem overnight, you've still added months of vibrant color to your yard (there are so many reasons why it is such a popular annual to grow!).

If you want to deter squirrels, there are rarely any guarantees; these clever little animals quickly adapt to new surroundings, and what works in one neighborhood may not work in another. Still, if you're looking for a simple, affordable, and wildlife-friendly alternative to traps, marigolds are certainly worth a place in your garden, especially as they might encourage those furry visitors to move on to someone else's flower bed instead.

And if all else fails? I can really recommend the ever-barking lurcher option (although, fair warning, your lawn will not thank you for it!).

Summer is a gorgeous season, but unfortunately pests adore it too and come out in abundance. It can be tough to keep pests at bay and ensure that your plants are protected - I know I've definitely woken up to my berries all eaten and my plant beds thoroughly trampled on before!

There are so many pest prevention solutions out there, from fences to chemicals and traps. But if you're looking for something easy to use that won't harm your plants you might need to look no further than in your kitchen cupboards.

Cayenne pepper is an excellent summer pest deterrent, detested by so many different animals and insects. And the best part is that it's cheap and chemical free! (You can even find cayenne pepper in bulk on Amazon). I talked to an assortment of gardening pros to learn exactly why it's so effective at deterring pests and the best ways to use it in a yard. Your plants will definitely be thanking you.

Why Do Pests Hate Cayenne Pepper?

Cayenne pepper is hated by common garden pests because it's a form of irritant. Its strong scent and spicy flavor profile is a lot for a pest's nose, eyes or paws to bear, encouraging them to steer clear.

As Jessica Mercer a horticulturalist at Plant Addicts, explains: "Cayenne pepper works as a pest deterrent because it contains capsaicin, the compound responsible for the pepper's spicy heat. It is an irritant to mammals, including rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, voles, raccoons, and deer, as well as soft-bodied insects. Cayenne irritates the mouth, nose, and mucous membranes, so the pests may avoid treated plants or soil after they smell or taste it."

There are many different ways to harness the humane, organic pest-banishing power of cayenne pepper, so there's bound to be something that works for you and your garden.

What are the Best Ways to Use Cayenne Pepper in the Garden?

There are three primary ways to use cayenne pepper as a pest deterrent in your yard: in its powder form, diluted with water, or diluted with a mixture of water and super mild soap.

If you're using cayenne in its powder form Lindsey Chastain of Waddle and Cluck recommends targeting the base of your plants or the borders of beds. This way, there's a barrier created between your pests and your greenery using the cayenne pepper.

She explains: "Just sprinkle it around the edges of garden beds or around the base of plants. Crawling pests like slugs and ants won't want to crawl over it and it will also keep rabbits, squirrels, and deer away. Anything that feels the irritation will back off."

Combining the cayenne pepper with a bit of water can elevate the hack, providing you with a spray you can use on the leaves of your plants to stop pests from munching on them.

Adding a small amount of mild soap can help the cayenne and water solution to better adhere to leaves, especially if you live in a rainy area and don't want the cayenne to rapidly wash away. Though be sure to use something extremely gentle like a baby soap in small doses.

Are There Any Downsides to This Hack?

The main downside to this hack is that the cayenne pepper will dilute and/or wash away when it rains, so it will need reapplying. If you live in an area with less rainfall this hack may be better suited for your needs.

Lindsey also noted to me that cayenne will irritate people's pets as well so if you have pets, it's important to consider whether they will be able to access the areas where you plan to use the pepper.

Jessica added that birds don't react to capsaicin in the same way that other pests do, so if you specifically have a bird problem the cayenne pepper may not work to discourage them or they will just get used to it.

If this is the case, the hack will work more effectively alongside other pest prevention methods for birds such as using netting like the Sukh Garden Mesh from Amazon or physical barriers like these Amazon Plant Protectors to shield your plants.

There are several things that can be unreliable in summer: tents, whether it will rain at your picnic, and allergies. One thing that is always a given? Mosquitos. It’s like they sense when you’ve laid the table, lit the candles, and invited over your friends for a perfect evening. Right on cue, those pesky mosquitoes show up uninvited and proceed to feast on everyone’s ankles.

Fortunately, there are some products that actually work well, and none of them are citronella candles. Knowing which tool to reach for in moments of annoyance when the mosquitoes start biting, plus knowing where and how to use them, makes all the difference. For a broader overview before you buy, check out our guide to 9 natural ways to get rid of mosquitoes.

Here are 7 products worth adding to your arsenal this summer.

July brings a wave of garden pests out in force. Heat and lush growth are exactly what they want, and a few of them can strip a tomato plant or hollow an iris rhizome in a matter of days. Catching them early is most of the battle.

Something shifts in the garden around July. The spring rush of aphids and slugs settles down in many gardens, and a tougher, hungrier crew takes over. Some tunnel out of sight, inside stems and rhizomes, doing their damage before you notice. Others arrive in swarms, or as a single caterpillar big enough to strip a plant overnight. Warm nights and dense foliage are just what they want, and a bed that looked spotless in June can take a beating before the trouble is obvious.

Knowing the common garden pests likely to show up this month makes them far easier to stop, since most do their worst while nobody's looking. The six here hit both edible and ornamental beds, and each has a tell — a specific kind of damage, or a spot it likes to hide — that gives it away early. Catch that, and treatment is usually simple.

6 July Pests, and How to Shut Them Down

One rule cuts across all of these: early action beats cleanup, every time. By the time the damage looks dramatic, the pest has usually moved on or multiplied. Catching the first signs is the whole game.

1. Squash Vine Borer

A squash plant thriving one day and collapsed the next almost always points to squash vine borer. The adult is a clearwing moth that looks more like a wasp, laying eggs at the base of squash and zucchini stems in early to midsummer. The larvae bore straight into the stem and hollow it from the inside until the vine can't move water — hence the sudden collapse.

Look for a small hole near the base ringed with sawdust-like frass. Prevention wins here, and a floating row cover from Amazon over the young plants keeps the moth from laying in the first place — it just has to come off once flowers open for pollination.

If a borer's already inside, sometimes you can still save the plant. Slit the stem lengthwise, dig the grub out, then mound moist soil over that spot so the vine roots again above the injury and keeps feeding itself.

2. Tomato Hornworm

For something that can reach 4 inches (10cm), the tomato hornworm is shockingly easy to miss. It's the exact green of a tomato stem, with a soft spike on its tail, and it feeds fast — a couple can defoliate a plant and start on the fruit in a day or two. The droppings give it away before the caterpillar does: dark pellets on the lower leaves, bare stems up top. Handpicking at dusk works well.

Editor Kathleen Walters’ favorite way to spot them is with a UV (black light) flashlight! They light up neon-green when you shine a black light, available from Amazon, around your tomato plants in the dusk or dark. No more hiding hornworms!

For a heavier run, the go-to spray is Bt from Amazon. It's a naturally occurring soil bacterium that affects only caterpillars, harmless to everything else. One exception: a hornworm studded with white rice-like cocoons should be left alone. Those are parasitic wasps, and they are already handling it for you!

3. Iris Borer

The worst of an iris borer's damage happens underground, out of sight, which is exactly what makes it so destructive. Eggs laid last fall hatch in spring, and by July the larvae have tunneled down the leaves into the rhizome and hollowed it out. That opens the door to bacterial soft rot, which finishes the job: a firm rhizome turns to foul-smelling mush.

Early on, watch for water-soaked streaks or ragged notches along the leaf edges. No spray reaches them once they're inside, so this one comes down to sanitation. Cut and destroy old iris foliage in fall to kill the eggs before they overwinter. Divide clumps every few years and toss any rhizome that's gone soft.

4. Phlox Bug

Tall garden phlox is a July staple, and the phlox bug times its arrival to match. The orange-and-black adults and their nymphs gather on stems and leaf undersides, piercing the tissue to drink sap. The result is a stippled, mottled look — pale flecks and yellowing that curl the leaves and warp new growth, sometimes stunting the flower heads before they open.

Since they feed in groups, a quick shake over soapy water takes out a lot at once. For a real colony, insecticidal soap from Amazon sprayed onto the undersides where they hide does the trick, though it only works on direct contact. Clearing plant debris in fall removes the eggs they leave behind for next year.

5. Japanese Beetles

The traps sold for Japanese beetles are, counterintuitively, one of the worst things you can hang in a yard. The pheromone lure pulls in far more beetles than it ever catches. The beetles are hard to miss otherwise: metallic green and copper, about half an inch (1cm) long, feeding in groups through July on roses, beans, grapes, plus many more plants. They skeletonize leaves, chewing out the soft tissue and leaving a lacy web of veins.

Hand-picking is the most effective fix (as low-tech as that sounds). Knock them into soapy water early, in the cool of morning when they're sluggish. For the long game, treating the lawn for grubs thins out next summer's crop.

6. Spider Mites

Hot, dry, dusty weather is a spider mite's ideal world, which is why they tend to explode in July. They aren't insects at all, they're tiny arachnids. Spider mites a barely visible, so what most people notice first is the damage: fine pale stippling across the leaves, then a dull bronze cast as it spreads. Webbing strung between the leaves turns up later, once they're established.

Because they aren't insects, plenty of general bug sprays do nothing to them. What works is water and oil. A hard blast from the hose knocks them loose, and neem oil from Amazon smothers the rest. Raising the humidity around the plants helps, too.

Weeding is one of those gardening jobs that you hate, but alas, it must be done. You’ll hate it even more if you’ve been doing it bent down with a cheap trowel, frantically pulling before your back gives out. However, you’ll be relieved to hear there are tools specifically designed to make this miserable takes much less loathsome. With the right tool, you can make weeding faster, more bearable, and in some cases (I’m looking at you pyromaniacs) genuinely enjoyable.

Whether you’re dealing with those annoying dandelions that are cute but take over your entire lawn, weeds that creep through the cracks of your patio, or a summer bed that got away from you while you were on vacation, there’s a tool on this list to help you get the job done.

We’ve rounded up the best you can order online right now, from the satisfyingly old-fashioned to the honestly quite unhinged (in the best way, of course). If you want a broader overview, check out our guide to the best weeding tools before you add anything to your cart.

If your knees and back protest with exhaustion ever time you so much as think about weeding, this is the tool for you. Despite being invented in 1913, it’s still one of the most effective weed removers on the market.

Grampa's Weeder uses a four-claw lever design to grip weeds by the root (which is exactly what you want). You just place it over the weed, step on the footpad, lean on the handle, and out it comes, root and all. No bending, no kneeling, and certainly no chemicals. It works best on softer soil (especially after rain), and it's particularly satisfying on dandelions. Over 100 years later, it still gets rave reviews, which really makes you think of the old adage, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

Sometimes you need a bit more precision, especially if you’re working in flower beds and don’t want to destroy your other plants. This Fiskars hand weeder has a cast-aluminum angled head, which gives you real leverage in tough soil, while the ergonomic SoftGrip handle is designed to reduce wrist and hand fatigue. This is great because it means you can actually keep going without your hand cramping up twenty minutes in. It’s rust-resistant, built to last, and has a hang hole for storage so you'll never lose it in the shed again (as long as it’s organized).

The Hori Hori is the Swiss Army knife of garden tools, and this seriously leans into that identity. It has 10 different functions all packed into a single stainless steel blade: flat edge, serrated edge, depth ruler, shovel, bottle opener, and multiple wrench sizes. For weeding specifically, the dual-edge blade lets you slice through roots cleanly, and the full-tang handle (injected directly into the blade) means it won't bend or break even in that super tough soil. It comes with a thick leather sheath you can clip to your belt, which is either very practical or very cool depending on your gardening personality. Probably both?

The weeds that grow between pavers and driveway cracks sure do win the award for most annoying, especially since no normal tool can reach them. But let me introduce you to the Japanese-made crack weeder from Nisaku. The corrugated stainless steel blade is specifically shaped to fit into tight crevices and get out weeds at the root. The craziest part is that it’s not some giant tool; it's small enough to fit in your pocket. Made by master blade craftsmen using authentic Tomita steel (the same manufacturer that's been making garden tools since 1960). It's one of those tools you didn't know you needed until you've used it once, and then you wonder how you ever lived without it.

Yes, this is technically setting weeds on fire, which is super cool if you like that sort of thing. And yes, it works brilliantly. The Flame King propane torch puts out 340,000 BTU, which, in less scientific terms, is enough to heat weeds to the point of cell destruction, killing them without chemicals and without any pulling. It's especially effective on driveways, gravel paths, and patio gaps, and the ten-foot hose means you're not dragging a propane tank around your whole garden.

A few important caveats though: use it in the early morning or evening when conditions are calm, keep water nearby, and don't use it during dry spells or anywhere near dry mulch or grass. Used sensibly, it's one of the most satisfying weeding experiences available. Used carelessly, it's a different kind of problem entirely.

This Long-Handled Hoe Weeder is made in the USA with a powder-coated steel frame and 60-inch ash handle. On top of that, this is one of the best-reviewed stirrup hoes on the market. The blade oscillates 20 degrees in both directions so it cuts on the push and the pull, meaning you can quickly work on large weedy beds without needing to bend over once.

The CobraHead Long Handled Weeder is a cult-favorite single-tine weeder that many gardeners swear by. The curved forged steel blade acts like a steel fingernail, getting under weeds and popping them out root-first with crazy accurate precision, and the 54-inch hardwood handle means you stay upright the whole time (always a win for your back).

Flies can ruin an outdoor gathering faster than you can say Diptera (the insect order in which the more than 150,000 fly species are found). They buzz around you, landing on food, and some species pack a powerfully painful bite. These pesky insects also make their way inside during the summer months and continue to annoy us in our own homes!

You can plant fly-repelling herbs and plants to help keep them away, but there may be some mistakes you are making around your yard and in your house that are attracting flies. Fixing these common issues can help reduce fly populations and help you and your family have a safe and swat-free summer.

Insecticides don’t generally work well for fly control, and they may hurt beneficial insects or harm pets or humans. You can use an insect trap like Zevo from Amazon to catch any strays that make it indoors. But the best way to control flies is to mitigate any issues that might be inviting them into your home or backyard gatherings.

Types of Flies and What Attracts Them

• House Flies: House flies are commonly found indoors, are strong fliers, and can transfer diseases to humans and animals when they land or walk around on surfaces or food. They lay eggs in garbage, animal dung, and decaying vegetation like your compost pile.
• Blow Flies: Blow flies, or bottle flies, have iridescent blue/green/copper bodies and lay their eggs in rotting meat or animal feces. You’ll find them around your trashcans outside if you have any meat scraps or dog doo sitting around in your cans during warm weather. You also might find them indoors if you an animal has made its way indoors and then died in the walls or attic.
• Black Flies: Black flies are biting flies whose larvae are aquatic. They swarm and bite in the summer and, unfortunately, are more common in areas with clean, well-oxygenated moving water. Covering exposed skin with loose, light-colored clothing and your favorite bug spray is about the only thing you can do for black flies short of going inside.
• Fruit flies: Fruit flies lay eggs in fruit and the larvae eat the fruit leading to decay. In addition to ruining your fresh summer produce, fruit flies are really annoying to have flying around your kitchen or picnic! Removing and disposing of overripe fruit and using a trap like the Zevo fly trap from Amazon will help keep populations under control

5 Mistakes You’re Making and How to Fix Them

Nobody wants flies buzzing around them indoors or outdoors and, moreover, flies can transmit diseases to humans and pets. Here are five common mistakes that might actually be attracting flies.

1. Not Keeping Spaces Clean

Keeping indoor and outdoor spaces clean will help keep many types of fly populations down. Remove trash from your home at least once a week and keep outdoor dining areas clear of food and beverage debris. Be sure to pick up and dispose of any fallen fruit from fruit trees in your yard.

Cleaning your outdoor trash bins will also help discourage flies and animal pests. If you still have a fly problem, the Terro Garbage Guard pest strip from Amazon can be used in outside trashcans to kill flies and maggots and prevent future infestations for up to 4 months. However, use with caution and only place in sealed, outdoor bins. It’s not safe to use indoors.

2. Leaving Compost Exposed

Your compost is the perfect place for flies to breed. You can cover your compost pile with a black plastic tarp or move to a compost tumbler with doors that close like this Vivosun tumbler from Amazon. It will also keep animals out of your compost and makes it super easy to turn, no pitchfork needed.

3. Using Plants That Attract Flies

Flies, despite our grossed-out reactions to them, are important pollinators. Unfortunately, that means some of the plants we like to look at also end up becoming a fly haven. You might see blow flies swarming your panicle hydrangeas, Manhattan euonymus, mountain mint, and linden trees.

Using plants that keep flies away around your patio, especially near windows and doors, is a good way to combat flies naturally. Rue, basil, lavender, and petunias all do a good job.

4. Insecure Doors and Windows

Having holes, even small ones, in window and door screens will let flies right into your home. You can find screen repair kits from Amazon or your local hardware store.

Additionally, flies might be sneaking in if you accidentally left the door ajar while carrying hot dogs and hamburgers outside for that 4th of July cookout. A magnetic mesh screen door from Walmart is a good solution that is quickly and easily installed.

5. Leaving Food Uncovered

Cover your barbecue foods with mesh cloches from Amazon or even a mesh colander you have in the kitchen. Using a fan directed at the table or a tabletop insect fan will also keep flies and other insects from crashing your party.

Fly Control Essentials

Many of the beetles people lump together as June bugs aren't June bugs at all. And the one most often mistaken for one can quietly chew a whole garden to lace while you're busy not worrying about it.

Look at them properly and you'd never confuse the two. But in that half-second before you do, they blur. Both are scarab beetles. Both crawl out of the soil in early summer and start eating. The similarity pretty much stops there. One is the June bug, a clumsy night-flier that chews a few leaves and moves on. The other is the Japanese beetle, near the top of every list of the country's worst garden pests. One is a nuisance you can mostly live with. The other can take a bush apart in a few days.

Identifying garden pests correctly is the whole game here, because the right response depends entirely on which beetle is in front of you. Pick the wrong fix and you either overreact to a bug that was never much of a threat, or you wave off one that's about to skeletonize the roses. A few clear differences sort it out fast, and once you know what to look for, you won't mix them up again.

June Bugs

The June bug (or May beetles) most people know is the one that shows up at the porch light and won't leave. Its color runs reddish-brown, sometimes nearly black. It's round and hard-shelled, about the size of a thumbnail, anywhere from a half-inch to a full inch (1.3-2.5cm) long. And it flies like it's never tried before, loud and heavy, bouncing off the screen.

The brown June bugs do their feeding after dark. Through the day they're hunkered down in the soil or under leaf litter, waiting it out. Come nightfall they're up and moving, feeding, knocking into every lit window on the block. The adults go for tree and shrub leaves more than anything in the vegetable patch, and what they leave behind is just ragged little notches around the edges. It looks rough up close. The plant barely registers it, though, and the season carries on fine.

“June bug” is a loose name. It covers a whole batch of related scarabs, including a daytime metallic-green one that throws people off and makes them think Japanese beetle.

Japanese Beetles

The Japanese beetle is the smaller of the two, around three-eighths of an inch (1cm), and far and away the flashier bug. Its head and thorax shine metallic green, and the wing covers turn a coppery bronze. Along each side of the body runs a row of little white tufts of hair, five to a side with two more at the tail. Those tufts are the giveaway. Nothing else in the garden presents them.

Where June bugs work alone and after dark, Japanese beetles do the reverse. They're out in the open in full daylight, happiest on a hot, sunny afternoon, and they almost never show up solo. Here's the nasty part: feeding beetles release pheromones and trigger plant stress signals that attract more beetles. So you spot two or three in the morning, write it off, and by evening there's a clump of thirty on the same branch. They snowball, and that's the whole problem with them.

Reading the Leaf Damage

Truth is, the pests' leaf damage might tell you more than the appearance of the beetle does.

A Japanese beetle eats the soft green tissue between the veins and leaves the veins behind, so the leaf turns into a kind of brown lace, see-through where the green used to be. They also skeletonize petals and can scar fruit surfaces. They start at the top where the sun hits and chew their way down.

June bugs don't work like that. Theirs is messier, more random—chunks and notches torn in from the edges, scattered around, nothing like that fine skeleton.

What really sets them apart is appetite. A Japanese beetle will eat just about anything—roses, grapes, beans, the fruiting canes, something like 300 species all told. That range is why they turn up as a problem in so many gardens. June bugs are fussier and stick mostly to trees. And then there's what goes on underground, where the two finally line up.

Both lay eggs that hatch into those fat white C-shaped grubs, and the grubs sit there eating grass roots, killing the lawn in patches from below. Japanese beetle grubs tend to concentrate in turf grass, while June bug larvae often feed deeper on roots in soil.

Getting Rid of Japanese Beetles

Because Japanese beetles cluster, hand-picking does real work here. Knock them into a jar of soapy water first thing in the morning, while the cool air still has them sluggish and slow to fly. Keep at it daily through the worst weeks and you stop the scent from building up and calling in reinforcements. One thing to skip is the pheromone bag trap. It pulls in far more beetles than it ever catches, so all you've done is bait your own yard.

Covering the plants they love can help as much as anything else. A floating row cover from Amazon draped over roses or beans for the few weeks beetles are active keeps them off the plant entirely. On anything too big or too numerous to cover, a neem oil spray from Walmart works as a repellent and feeding deterrent without wiping out every insect in the bed. And if the crowd gets ahead of you, an insecticidal soap from Amazon knocks them back, though spraying at dusk spares the bees doing their rounds. You can also make your own insecticidal soap!

Handling June Bugs

June bugs mostly aren't worth much fuss. The adults do surface damage at worst, and an established tree or shrub takes a few chewed leaves without any harm done. Cut the porch lights through their peak weeks and fewer of them gather near the house, since those lights are half the reason they show up. For most yards, leaving them alone is the right call.

The grubs are the part worth keeping an eye on, for both beetles. When they're feeding hard, the lawn goes spongy and yellow in patches, and the turf tugs up loose like it's barely holding on—late summer, mostly, is when you'll see it. Beneficial nematodes, watered into the soil, hunt the grubs down without any chemicals. A deep-watered, healthy lawn handles the light stuff on its own, too. But if the brown patches keep creeping outward, peel up a corner of sod and count what's under there before reaching for anything stronger.

As summer temperatures soar, so does the risk of heat stress in our plants. Our first instinct when we see our beloved hydrangea or hosta start to wilt and turn brown is to drench it with cold water in an attempt to perk it up. But overwatering heat-stressed plants can actually do more harm than good.

When daytime temperatures climb above 85°F, our plants can start to show signs of heat stress. They may begin to wilt, droop, and leaves can even show signs of sunburn. Plants that experience heat stress are more susceptible to pests and diseases, so it’s important to treat this problem fast before it spirals into other issues.

The first step is identifying whether or not your plant has heat stress (or if it just needs a drink). Then it’s time to take action and save your heat-stressed plant without overwatering it and causing a whole different set of problems.

What Is Heat Stress?

Heat stress in plants occurs when temperatures rise above 85°F. The ideal growing conditions for most plants are between 60° and 85°F. So when temperatures reach above that and into the 90° to 100°F and above range, heat stress is a real concern.

Plants that are suffering from heat stress droop, look wilted, may show signs of sunburn, and can become stunted. Sunburn can occur on leaves or stems of plants. It looks like light-colored or discolored splotches on the foliage of your plant and is caused by excessive exposure to bright sun.

How to Save Heat-Stressed Plants

If you notice signs of heat stress in your plants while gardening during a heatwave, don’t worry. There are a few simple steps you can take to save plants before it’s too late. But don’t rush out there with the hose just yet, because overwatering heat-stressed plants can actually make the problem worse. Here’s what to do instead.

1. Check Your Soil Moisture

Before drowning your plants with a big drink of water, it’s best to check the moisture level of your soil first. You can use the finger test to do this. Simply stick a finger about 1 inch (2.5 cm) into the soil to see if it feels moist. If it does, then a lack of water is not the problem. If it doesn’t, then it’s probably time to give your garden a drink.

Another foolproof method is to use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Amazon. This type of device tells you exactly how much moisture is in your soil and whether or not your plant really needs more water or not.

The best time to water plants is in the morning, but if your plants are wilting and their soil is dry then you can water them at the base of the plant.

2. Add Mulch

Whether your plant needs more water or not, it’s a good idea to add some mulch around your heat-stressed plants regardless. A layer of an organic mulch, which you can order on Amazon, holds in moisture and keeps plant roots cool.

When temperatures are very high, the soil heats up just like the air and this causes roots to heat up as well. This can cause heat stress in plants, but a layer of mulch helps lower the temperature and adds organic material and nutrients back into the soil as it breaks down over time.

3. Provide Sun Protection

If you notice sunburn or sunscald on your plants, then it’s time to provide some shade. A simple shade cloth, like this one from Amazon, can help protect plants the way sunscreen protects gardeners from the scorching summer rays.

Creating shade for plants will protect foliage from burning and it will also help keep plants cool. Think about how refreshing it feels to step under the shade of a big oak tree on a hot summer day. Give your heat-stressed plants some respite from the blazing sun with a shade cloth.

If you grow plants in containers simply move them to a shadier part of your yard during the hottest part of the day. A covered patio is the perfect spot. You can use a rolling plant caddy, like this one from Amazon, to make moving large planters easier.

4. Stop Fertilizing

You may think that giving plants a boost of their favorite food will help them come out of heat stress stronger, but just the opposite is true. Fertilizer forces plants to push out new growth, which can stress them further. It can also cause sunburn on plant foliage, so fertilizing in hot weather is a bad idea all around.

Instead, if your plants are showing signs of heat stress, immediately stop feeding them. Let them rest and recover before adding more nutrients to the soil again.

5. Remove Ripening Fruits & Faded Flowers

If the plants in your vegetable garden have heat stress, then it may be time for an early harvest. Edible plants work hard to send their energy towards developing fruits and vegetables. But this can be at the expense of their own health and vitality.

If you want your plants to keep producing fruits and veggies for the rest of the summer, you can harvest the produce that’s ripening now to give them a break and let them rest before they send out the next round of fruit.

The same principle applies for flowers. If you leave faded flowers on your plants, they will work to send energy towards producing viable seeds in the spent blooms to reproduce. Deadhead flowers that are done blooming to let heat-stressed plants focus on staying alive rather than producing seeds.

Summer is a busy time of year with the garden in full swing and outdoor gatherings just about every weekend. Unfortunately, pests can ruin your gardens and your parties.

Common garden pests can destroy large sections of plants quickly and leave your frustrated. I have been battling groundhogs for years and mosquitoes for my whole life! I have rounded up the best Amazon Prime Day deals for pest control so you can spend less time scouring the internet for pest control solutions and more time enjoying your summer.

Read on to see my pest control picks that are on sale during the Amazon Prime Day event this week.

Mosquito Control Deals

I am a mosquito magnet so I am always looking for the best products to help me cope with my skeeter neighbors. Here are the best deals on mosquito control products on Amazon.

Outdoor Insect Control Deals

Insects like aphids, mites, and Japanese beetles can quickly take over your garden and destroy all your hard work. Here are some great options for controlling outdoor insects.

Indoor Insect Control Deals

Fruit flies and fungus gnats are some of the peskiest indoor pests. Keep them at bay with these great deals from Amazon.

Animal Pest Control Deals

I love wildlife, but these cuties take a real toll on my garden every year. Here are some of the best Amazon Prime Day deals to keep animal pests away.

Keep an eye on the Gardening Know How site for more of our Amazon Prime Day picks like our favorite lawn care deals and plant deals!

Summer is the time of year many of us look forward to – gorgeous skies, long days, and endless opportunities to enjoy the outdoors. But there's one thing nobody looks forward to: being swarmed by insects.

Unfortunately, this year is shaping up to be a particularly bad one for bugs, especially flying pests like mosquitoes, flies, and wasps. The good news? With a quality insect zapper like the GOOTOP Bug Zapper from Amazon, you can spend less time worrying about pests and more time making the most of the warm weather.

There's plenty to love about the GOOTOP Bug Zapper, making it one of the most standout Amazon Prime Day garden buys. And when Amazon's best-selling bug zapper is available at half price, it's hard to ignore. Here are just a few reasons why it's in my cart.

What is the GOOTOP Bug Zapper?

The GOOTOP Bug Zapper is designed for both indoor and outdoor use. It plugs into a standard three-prong outlet and uses a blue-violet light to attract flying insects. When insects come into contact with the electrified grid, they're killed instantly before falling into a removable collection tray for easy disposal.

You can place the zapper in a range of locations, including an entryway to catch insects before they make their way into your home. It's also well suited to patios, decks, and near front or back doors where bugs tend to gather.

Each zapper is designed to cover up to half an acre outdoors, helping protect a large area from flying insects.

Why Do I love It?

I really like the design of the GOOTOP Bug Zapper. Many models on the market can look quite unsightly, but this one has a discreet design that looks more like an outdoor lantern than a bug zapper, making it easy to blend in by a front door or on a patio.

I also like that it includes a removable tray, making it easy to dispose of dead insects. This is especially useful if you've mounted the zapper on a wall, as you won't have to take the whole unit down every time it needs emptying.

As someone who openly admits to being afraid of bugs, I find the half-acre coverage incredibly reassuring. And if you have a larger outdoor space, there's nothing to stop you from buying a second one to extend the coverage.

Customer Reviews

With a 4.5-star rating from more than 26,000 Amazon customer reviews, the GOOTOP Bug Zapper has earned plenty of praise from shoppers.

Reviewers describe it as "surprisingly effective", especially given its sub-$30 sale price. Many also appreciate that it starts working as soon as it's plugged in, eliminating the need to spray chemical insecticides or pesticides around the home.

Customers note that you'll likely hear a small zap when an insect is caught. Rather than finding it annoying, many say the sound reassures them that the zapper is doing its job, with some even saying it's convinced them to buy additional units.

The blue-violet light has also proved popular, with several reviewers saying it creates a pleasant ambience for evenings spent outdoors.

Shop More Insect Prevention Supplies

A chewed leaf is usually a clue, and not just an eyesore. The shape of the damage and where it shows up usually point straight to whoever’s responsible, and naming the culprit is most of the battle.

You put in the work all spring, and then one morning the leaves look like someone went at them with a hole punch. It is common to happen, and it’s rarely a mystery for long. Most of the bugs that eat plants leave a calling card—a particular style of damage that gives them away. Once you learn the signs, the rest is mostly follow-through.

This isn’t about reaching for the strongest spray on the shelf, either. Half of identifying garden pests is just looking closely—at the holes, sure, but also the leaf undersides where things hide, and the little black specks they leave behind. Match the damage to the bug, and the fix usually turns out simpler and gentler than you’d expect.

Match the Damage: 7 Common Culprits

None of this needs a lab. Most damage falls into a handful of patterns, and once you’ve seen each one a couple of times, you’ll start spotting the culprit at a glance. Here’s how the usual suspects sign their work.

1. Slugs and Snails

If the holes turn up overnight and there’s a silvery trail glinting nearby, you’re looking at slugs or snails. They go for soft, low growth—seedlings especially—and they’re at their worst after rain. Heading out after dark with a flashlight to pick them off works, though it’s not everyone’s idea of a good evening.

A few slug hacks gardeners swear by include beer traps, copper tape, and trap boards. Beer traps sunk level with the soil pull them in, and copper tape around a pot gives them a jolt they won’t cross. For a real infestation, an organic slug bait from Amazon (currently 20% off for Prime Day) uses iron phosphate is safe around pets and wildlife, unlike the older pellets. Mostly, though, clearing the damp boards and pot rims they shelter under does more than any trap.

2. Caterpillars

Look for the droppings. Large, irregular bites out of the leaves, plus a scatter of dark frass pellets on the foliage below, almost always means caterpillars. They like to hide on the undersides by day, so flip a few leaves over. A tomato hornworm can strip a plant in a day or two if you miss it.

Hand-picking honestly works if you keep at it; drop them in soapy water and move on. When there are too many to chase, a spray of Bacillus thuringiensis from Amazon (Bt) hits caterpillars only and leaves the bees and everything else alone, which most sprays can’t manage to do. Netting over the crop stops the moths laying eggs to begin with.

3. Japanese Beetles

You’ll usually catch Japanese beetles in the act. Fat, metallic green-and-copper beetles clustered on a rose in the afternoon sun, the leaf behind them eaten down to a lacy net of veins. They’re among the showiest bugs on garden plants, and among the most maddening. Knock them into a tub of soapy water early in the morning while they’re still sluggish; it thins a group fast.

Skip the pheromone traps, whatever the box promises—they pull in more beetles than they catch. Neem oil from Amazon makes the leaves less appealing, and since the grubs spend winter in the lawn, treating that breaks next year’s cycle. Plan on staying after this one all season.

4. Flea Beetles

It looks like someone fired birdshot at the foliage. Dozens of tiny round holes peppering the leaf. That’s flea beetles, and they live up to the name, springing away the second you lean in. Seedlings take it hardest; young brassicas and eggplant can stall out completely under a heavy attack.

The surest answer is keeping them off from the start. A floating row cover from Amazon dropped over the bed at planting lets in light and rain while shutting the beetles out. Sticky traps catch the adults, and once a plant is big and growing strong, the damage isn’t near as noticeable.

5. Earwigs

No slime, but soft leaves and flower petals chewed into ragged holes, and nothing in sight during daylight? Suspect earwigs. Dahlias and marigolds are favorites, along with any tender seedling. They feed at night and tuck into tight, dark crevices by day, which is exactly how you beat them.

Set out a loosely rolled damp newspaper, or an upturned pot packed with straw, and empty the hideouts come morning. One catch worth remembering: earwigs also eat aphids and other small bugs eating plant leaves, so a few around the garden actually earn their keep. Step in only when they’re wrecking blooms you really care about.

6. Sawfly Larvae

Sawfly larvae get mistaken for caterpillars all the time, which sends people reaching for the wrong product. They graze the surface off a leaf and leave a thin, translucent windowpane – green veins showing through where the tissue’s been scraped away. Rose slugs are the common version.

Because they aren’t true caterpillars, Bacillus thuringiensis does nothing here, so you have to go at them directly. They gather on leaf undersides, often in tidy rows, so a hard blast of water knocks plenty off, and insecticidal soap or neem mops up the stragglers if you hit where they feed. Get on it early. Five minutes of squishing now spares you a skeletonized bush in July.

7. Vine Weevils

The notched leaf edges are the obvious part of vine weevil damage. The neat little scallops bitten out of the margins almost look decorative, but the real trouble is out of sight. Cream-colored grubs chew through the roots underground, and the first you know of it is often a potted plant that wilts and topples over for no clear reason.

Container heucheras and primulas are prime targets, strawberries too. The adults can’t fly and wander at night, so hand-picking or a sticky barrier handles them. The grubs are the harder problem. An application of beneficial nematodes in late summer, while the soil’s still warm, is the one thing that reliably reaches them down there.

I have a long-standing issue with slugs. Specifically, their complete lack of respect for my garden and their unwavering commitment to treating my precious lupins like an all-you-can-eat buffet.

Every year it becomes a familiar cycle: I plant something I love, it looks promising for a while, and then one night the slugs arrive en masse and reduce it to tatters. I’ve tried ignoring it, I’ve tried relocating them (an exercise in futility), and I’ve even considered my neighbour’s approach of standing outside at night with a torch like some kind of vegetable vigilante. And my husband’s very boring advice (why don’t you just plant the sort of things that slugs won’t eat?) doesn’t even bear thinking about.

I won’t use chemicals, because I know they’re terrible for the entire ecosystem, so I am entirely restricted to environmentally friendly options to remove slugs and snails. When I came across a ceramic slug trap disguised as a pretty garden ornament, then, you had best believe I was intrigued.

A Slug Trap in Disguise

The Esschert Design snail-shaped slug trap is exactly what it sounds like: a small ceramic ornament designed to sit in your borders and quietly deal with slugs without shouting about it. From a distance, it just looks like a slightly whimsical garden decoration. Up close, it’s doing something far more practical.

So how does it actually work?

The idea is simple. You fill the base with a liquid attractant (most commonly beer, although some gardeners use yeast mixtures) and place it at soil level in your beds or pots. Slugs are drawn to the smell, climb inside, and are trapped. The ceramic lid helps protect the bait from rain and keeps everything discreet, which is part of the appeal if you’d rather not scatter beer traps across your flowerbeds.

It’s a passive system, which means no chemicals, no electricity, no late-night slug patrol required. Just set it, place it, and check it every so often. And gardeners are singing its praises as a result.

Yes, reviews consistently mention that it blends into planting schemes far better than makeshift solutions like old yoghurt pots or metal tins. One gardener said they caught 11 slugs overnight using beer as bait, and described the trap as durable and easy to clean and reuse.

Another simply called it “darling,” which is not usually a word you associate with pest control, but here we are.

Others compared this slug trap directly to traditional beer traps in tins, saying it performs just as well but looks significantly better doing it. And hey, I think we can all agree that there’s something deeply satisfying about pest control that doesn’t make your garden look like a science experiment.

Does it completely solve a slug problem? Probably not. Most gardeners will tell you that slug control is about reduction, not eradication. But as part of a wider approach, alongside planting choices and a bit of persistence, it seems to make a noticeable difference.

Shop Slug Control Essentials:

At the very least, it replaces the slightly grim ritual of beer traps in random containers with something that actually looks like it belongs in the garden.

And if you’re anything like me, that alone is worth it.

Summer is the ultimate reward for gardeners. All your hard work pays off in lush foliage and gorgeous flowers. Now, imagine you walk through your garden one morning only to find that your prized plants are struggling and look like they’ve been dusted with flour. This is powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal infections to affect garden plants. It thrives when days are warm and dry and nights are humid. It can damage and, in severe cases, even kill plants. Fortunately, if you catch it early, you can use a common kitchen staple to make a powdery mildew spray that will keep this nasty infection at bay.

A baking soda spray for powdery mildew is a useful tool in fighting this damaging fungal disease. With this simple and safe homemade remedy, you can keep your plants healthy and beautiful for the rest of the summer. Here’s how to do it.

What Is Powdery Mildew?

Powdery mildew is a fungal garden disease that affects many plants. It’s caused by several different types of fungi. The good news is that the type of fungus that causes the disease is unique to each plant. So if your roses have powdery mildew, they can’t spread the disease to your nearby lilac or squash plants.

The most characteristic sign of powdery mildew is the presence of a white or gray powdery substance on leaves. It can also develop on stems, buds, flowers, or even fruits. All types of plants can potentially be affected by powdery mildew from shrubs and trees to perennials and vegetables.

Powdery mildew doesn’t look very nice, but it can also harm plants by blocking photosynthesis and ultimately reducing the plant’s growth. You might also see leaves turn yellow, curl up, and eventually drop.

It can be easy to miss the early signs of powdery mildew, so be vigilant. Look on lower leaves, interior leaves, and the undersides of leaves for the first signs of an infection. Early detection will make it easier to manage and prevent the spread of this disease.

How Baking Soda for Powdery Mildew Works

It’s always best to prevent diseases like powdery mildew, but even with your best efforts, you might see signs of it if the conditions are right. Instead of tearing out entire plants or turning to chemical fungicides, try home remedies.

A powdery mildew baking soda spray can help stop the spread of the disease by changing the pH on your plants’ surfaces. Baking soda is alkaline. Spraying it onto the plant will raise the pH, creating an inhospitable environment for the fungus to live and spread.

This homemade fungicide won’t totally kill the fungus or restore damaged leaves to a healthier state. What it does instead is prevents the fungus from creating and dispersing more spores. It slows or stops the spread of the disease to the rest of the plant or other plants of the same species.

You’ll get the best results by combining a baking soda spray for powdery mildew with overall good gardening practices, like ensuring your plants have plenty of airflow between stems and leaves.

What You Will Need

DIY Powdery Mildew Baking Soda Spray

The recipe for this DIY baking soda spray for powdery mildew is simple: Mix one tablespoon of baking soda and a teaspoon of dish soap into a gallon of water. The dish soap helps the solution stick to the plant instead of just running off and into the soil.

Mix your solution thoroughly before using, as the baking soda won’t entirely dissolve. Use a spray bottle to spray the solution all over the affected plant, including on the undersides of leaves.

The best times to use the spray are early in the morning and late in the evening. Reapply the spray every week or so, more frequently if it rains.

Safety Precautions

Baking soda is generally safe, but it can potentially burn foliage, so resist the urge to make a stronger solution with more baking soda. Before you use the spray all over a plant, test it on one leaf. Wait 24 hours to see how the leaf responds before spraying the entire plant.

Avoid using this remedy during the afternoon when it’s hot and sunny or on drought-stressed plants, as this can intensify potential damage.

Another issue is that baking soda can cause salt buildup in the soil. Water the soil around plants thoroughly before applying the spray and limit its use to no more than once per week. As an alternative, you can use potassium bicarbonate in the same recipe with similar results and less risk of salt accumulation.

Tips for Managing Powdery Mildew

Baking soda is not a miracle cure for powdery mildew and it doesn’t actually kill the fungus. What it’s good at doing is preventing further spread of the disease. For the best results, combine the use of this homemade spray with other best practices to prevent and manage powdery mildew. You can also try a commercial organic fungicide like this one from Bonide.

Space your plants appropriately and thin them from time to time to be sure air can flow through and around them. Too much humidity within and around plants is ideal for fungal growth.

If you don’t catch powdery mildew early and find heavily infected leaves or stems, trim away these parts of the plant before using a baking soda spray. Dispose of them in the garbage rather than in your compost pile, where they can continue to spread the disease. Always sanitize your pruning tools and wash your hands after doing this chore to prevent spread as well.

If you’ve got curious kids or pets who use your garden, you won’t want to be using chemical traps to get rid of your resident ants. Neither will you want to be dabbling with borax – while it is a naturally occurring mineral, some countries restrict its sale because of concerns about toxicity. But other natural ingredients like orange peel do absolutely nothing, right? Well, if you're wondering how to get rid of ants naturally, the chemical-free solution you need that effectively kills ants is a combination of baking soda and powdered confectioners’ sugar, with a little help from a splash of white vinegar.

The first two pantry staples create a delicious yet deadly concoction to get rid of ants and anthills naturally. While the sweet sugar tempts the ants, the baking soda reacts with their stomach acids to kill them. Ok, so it’s not a good way to go but if you, like me, garden with wildlife in mind, this is an effective method to stop ants overtaking your yard without eradicating them completely.

Ants are a super-helpful part of your garden’s ecosystem because they aerate the soil as they tunnel underground, allowing air and water to reach plant roots. By scavenging dead insects and crumbs of organic waste, they aid the process of decomposition to nourish soil. Ants are also extremely good at hoovering up eggs, larvae and pupae of pests such as fruit flies, fleas and caterpillars. So, get rid of all the ants in your garden and you may just find yourself with a different pest problem. I find encouraging the beneficial critters and discouraging the pesky ones brings a good balance.

And that’s what’s great about this method: you can adjust the potency of the trap so it controls numbers rather than destroying the nest, or up the ante to get rid of the entire colony. This means you can significantly reduce the number of ants in your garden if they’re becoming a problem, but leave a small population that’s beneficial. Or employ a strategic combination in different areas: it might be that you have a colony in your front yard that’s creating ant hills on the driveway paving, that you want to eradicate, but only want to lower the number of ants in your back-garden lawn to reduce the likelihood of your kids getting bitten.

Disrupting the ants' scent trails with diluted white vinegar ensures the ants find the trap quickly. And then, with ant numbers under control, you can employ deterrents such as pots of pennyroyal, a pretty plant that naturally repels ants, to keep these biters off your deck or patio (and seeds are available from Amazon). And voila! You have yourself an effective, natural solution to dealing with ants in your garden.

How to Make a Natural Ant Trap

1. Make Holes in a Clear Container

You’ll need some sort of small plastic container with a lid – I use old takeaway tubs. Poke two or three holes low on the sides; I do this by melting the plastic with the heated tip of a skewer.

2. Add the Ingredients

Then add a tablespoon of baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) and a tablespoon of powdered confectioners' (icing) sugar and mix well. It’s important that you use powdered sugar because if you use granulated or caster sugar, the ants will be able to separate those larger granules from the finer baking soda.

3. Decide How Potent the Ant Trap Will Be

Here’s the clever bit! If you want to reduce the number of ants, simply mix the two ingredients well to combine the two powders. If you want to eradicate the nest, however, add a little water to make a thick paste. Worker ants will consume the dry mix in situ, but the paste is much easier to carry so they’re far more likely to take this back to their colony.

4. Position the Ant Trap

Pop the lid on the container and place the ant trap in your garden near to ant hills or whereever you regularly see ants. I'm targeting the ants that are loosening these pavers next to a raised bed – this is my zero-water border that I literally never water, so ants love the dry conditions a little too much.

5. Encourage Ants to Use the Trap

Placed close to an anthill, ants will be attracted by the sweet scent and quickly find the trap. However, if you don't have anthills to guide your trap placement, it's a smart idea to help ants find it faster by getting rid of existing scent trails they follow to regular sources of food. You’ll no doubt have spotted lines of ants using the same highways around your garden, and by confusing these scent trails you’ll encourage ants to explore and find your trap.

To do this, mix a blend of half white vinegar and half water and wipe this along any ant highways you’ve noticed, paying particular attention to edges of paving as these are usually well-trodden routes.

These ant traps are just as effective indoors, if ants invade your kitchen or greenhouse. Baking soda and white vinegar is also useful to make a natural trap for mosquitoes and, combined with vegetable oil, dish soap and water, to make a natural spray to prevent fungal diseases in tomato plants.

A bird bath that hasn’t been emptied in five days can already have mosquito larvae in it. A female mosquito needs only a small amount of still, warm water and 24 to 48 hours to go from eggs to hatchlings. The full cycle from egg to biting adult takes place in less than a week in summer heat.

Changing the water in your bird bath every few days helps, though timing matters significantly. Miss the window by a day or two and the problem has already started. So it’s important to find ways to prevent mosquitoes in bird baths or else you’ll have a big problem on your hands.

Luckily, I’ve found the perfect solution to stop your bird bath from becoming a mosquito breeding ground. All it takes is a simple device called a water wiggler. This nifty trick keeps mosquitoes from reproducing and also creates a cleaner, more welcoming environment for backyard birds.

What Is a Water Agitator?

A water agitator, like the Water Wiggler from Amazon, is a battery-powered motor that sits in a bird bath and creates a continuous ripple across the surface of the water. It only takes a couple minutes to set up and has many other benefits besides repelling mosquitoes.

The ripple this device creates is intentionally gentle – closer to a light breeze on the surface than actual agitation. This is good because birds won’t use a bath that feels unstable and the whole point is to attract birds to your bird bath. Moving water also prevents mosquitoes from breeding in your bird bath.

Why Birds Love Moving Water

Many birds can’t resist moving water. In the wild, still or stagnant water signals risk, but moving water signals a safe and fresh life source. The ripple from a water agitator works on the same principle, which is why baths with any kind of surface movement tend to get more use than those without.

Water that moves constantly stays cleaner longer as well. It’s harder for algae to form and loose debris won’t sit on the surface of the water. You end up having to clean your bird bath less often, which is another big benefit for both you and the birds. Algae buildup can create conditions that affect the health of birds using the bath.

The sound of moving water attracts birds to your garden, too. Moving water makes a soft, audible trickle that carries across a garden and birds use that sound to locate water the same way they do in the wild. A still bird bath is silent, but one with a water agitator imitates the sound of a naturally trickling stream. Birds will flock to your yard within just a few days of installation.

How a Water Agitator Stops Mosquitoes

Mosquito larvae need to breathe and they do it from the surface via a small tube that stays in contact with the air above the water. Still water makes it easy for them to breathe – the larvae just hang there. But a surface that’s constantly moving makes survival considerably harder.

Egg-laying females will look for calmer water to reproduce once you add a water agitator to your bird bath. The water doesn’t need to be turbulent for this to work either. A gentle, persistent ripple is enough to put off most mosquitoes. Even a small solar-powered fountain, like this one from Amazon, will do the trick.

Compared to chemical treatments or biological controls like BTI, a water agitator is passive and requires no reapplication or dangerous chemicals. There’s nothing to add to the water, no residue, and no concern about what it might do to visiting birds that drink from the bath.

Other approaches work well in a wider range of standing water. But for a bird bath specifically, a mechanical solution like this that also doubles as a bird attractant is hard to argue against.

Setup & Maintenance

Setup is as straightforward as it gets. A water agitator drops into any bird bath without modification. For battery-powered devices, like the Water Wiggler, or solar-powered versions, like this water agitator from Amazon, there’s no need to connect to plumbing or wiring. The unit is ready to run in under a minute.

You can remove the device for bath cleaning and drop it back in easily, which is useful since most bird baths benefit from a scrub every few weeks regardless. The device is designed to be submerged and run continuously.

For any garden that already has a bird bath or if you’re considering adding one, a water agitator will prevent your yard from becoming a mosquito breeding ground.

This simple solution doesn’t require any real commitment of time or effort. It’s a small addition that removes a problem most people didn’t realize were creating when they added a bird bath to their garden. Plus, the birds who visit your bath will love it!

It’s June, so it’s time to say hello to backyard bugs like aphids, stink bugs, and Japanese flea beetles. These insects feed on many flowers and vegetables, and are not exactly welcome visitors. They suck sap, munch foliage, or dig into fruits or flowers, leaving the garden less lovely than before they arrive.

Common garden pests are called pests for a reason. If you want them gone, June is the time to jump into the fight. The longer a pest population is permitted to establish, the harder it is to get rid of them.

Let’s dig in and banish June garden pests!

Garden Pests to Look Out for in June

June is known for many pleasant things in the garden, including warmer weather, peonies, roses, and hydrangeas. But insect pests also appear, attracted by the young plants and new flowers. Unlike pollinators, these pests don’t do anything good for your flowers or vegetables, and you’ll want to jump into the fight.

Here are six common pests to watch for:

1. Aphids

Aphids may be among the most common garden pests. Although each bug is soft-bodies and tiny, you’re not likely to ever see one aphid alone. Instead, you’ll see large groups of aphids (green, black, or brown) partying on the underside of leaves. The party food consists of plant sap that they consume with their specialized piercing/sucking mouth parts. This wilts the plant and stunts growth and, even worse, the bugs leave behind a waste product called honeydew. Despite the “honey” in the term, there is nothing sweet about honeydew. It is sticky and icky, hosts sooty mold, and attracts ants.

What to do in June? Get out the hose early on and blast off those bugs with a strong spray. Or buy a box of live ladybugs at the garden store and release them in the garden to eat the aphids. If you need to bring in bigger guns, mix liquid dish soap into a pressurized garden sprayer and hit the undersides of the foliage. Content Editor Kathleen Walters swears by this Vivosun handheld pump sprayer from Amazon.

2. Stink Bugs

Picture an armored tank in your mind, then use your imagination to shrink it smaller, smaller, smaller until it could sit on a nickel. That’s what a stink bug looks like. The common name refers to the awful smell you will experience if you crush one.

But the smell is the least of the issues. Stink bugs also have piercing mouthpieces that they use to pierce fruit and vegetable skin – think tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. What’s left behind is ugly, sunken, brownish spots.

Here’s a fun job for June: pick off these ugly buglies in the early morning – that’s when they are only half awake - and pop them into a bucket of soapy water. If this idea makes you sick, you could invest in a vacuum insect catcher and suck the stink bugs off your plants while not experiencing the “stink.” This bug vacuum from Amazon is made for kids to explore nature, but it works great for adult gardeners, too!

3. Flea Beetles

This is the first of this list of garden pests that is pretty, but not pretty enough to want in the garden. Tiny, jumping flea beetles are small, round and shiny but they munch small BB-like holes in your young, tender garden foliage. These holes can severely damage young seedlings.

You’ll know that these pests are flea beetles because they jump around like fleas. Their favorite foods include the leaves of eggplants, radishes, and arugula. June is the peak season, and you’ll need to act quickly.

You can cover the most vulnerable crops with row covers or use sticky traps to snap up mature flea beetles before they breed. Alternatively, sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the foliage – it cuts up any insects that walk over it. You can find food-grade diatomaceous earth on Amazon.

4. Japanese Beetles

Here’s a beetle that is even prettier than a flea beetle: a Japanese beetle. They are all dressed up in metallic digs but they aren’t heading out to party. They are always hungry and will skeletonize leaves so fast your head will spin. Look for them to appear on roses, grapevines and other favorite plants in June.

You may be sad to hear that the best way to deal with these pests in June is to pluck them off by hand in the morning and, like with stink bugs, drop them into a bowl of soapy water. Alternatively, make a garlic soap spray to keep these beetles away. Blend garlic cloves and mint leaves in water, boil it down, and strain into a spray bottle. Mix in dish soap and more water to fill the whole bottle.

5. Slugs

Okay, we admit it up front: slugs are not insects. But nobody likes them and they tend to turn up during June evenings in your garden and under everything that isn’t tied down. You may never see them but you will notice that your seedlings look half-eaten and the flowers on your transplants are entirely gone. And you will probably see their slimy trails.

Slugs should also be handpicked from the garden and dropped into that same soapy water. You’ll want to use a flashlight to catch them red-handed in the evenings. An alternative solution for slugs is probably more pleasant for you: buy slug traps with sunken rims or make your own beer trap for slugs to drown in.

6. Spider Mites

There’s a reason they call these pests spider mites, and yes, it has to do with the fine webs you start to see in June between your plant stems. The leaves will also give away the present of these teeny tiny insects – they’ll look dusty, speckled, or lifeless. Small though they are, spider mites suck the chlorophyll out of your plants.

Bring out the hose to get rid of the spider mites. A strong spray every few days will do it. Alternatively, use a Neem oil spray on both sides of the leaves. You can find neem oil at Amazon or your local garden center.

It's skeeter season, and every gardener knows that the mosquito bucket of doom is the best way to deal with these biting bugs. Or is it?

The mosquito bucket of doom isn't a complicated concept. Fill a dark container roughly halfway with water, add something organic – straw, grass clippings, leaf litter – and what you've built is a convincing imitation of the warm, stagnant pools gravid female mosquitoes are already hunting for when it's time to lay.

The idea is simple: they go to the bucket rather than the birdbath or pond, which is the whole point. The larvae that hatch can then be eliminated, helping to rid the area of the local population before any adult emerges.

Improving the Mosquito Bucket of Doom

Beginners should create a mosquito bucket of doom first; everything here assumes the basic setup is already in place.

The key thing to understand is that this is a trap method, not a repellent; it draws mosquitoes in and cuts off the lifecycle rather than deterring adults. Refinements work by strengthening the attraction and reliability of the trap, and making it look less like a garden eyesore.

And so, with that in mind...

1. Boost Your Coverage

One mosquito bucket of doom near a patio isn't going to catch every egg-laying female in a quarter-acre garden: mosquitoes work across small ranges when hunting for laying sites, and a single location covers a fraction of that.

Several smaller containers at different points around the property do more work than one large vessel in a single spot.

A 3-gallon (11.4L) bucket does the same job as a 10-gallon (38L) one; three of them distributed around the garden tend to cover considerably more ground.

This is also more practical to maintain; emptying or treating smaller containers is considerably less of a task.

2. Consider Shade

Shade placement matters for a couple of reasons. Sun-exposed buckets dry out fast – more topping up, shorter effective window before the organic material stops doing its job.

Shade matters for a separate reason: many Aedes species, the ones primarily responsible for backyard biting, tend to prefer sheltered spots when searching for laying sites.

Positioning under a hedge or along a shaded boundary lines up with where those mosquitoes already spend their time, and it's a quieter presence in the garden than a bucket sitting out in the open.

3. Make the Setup Less Obvious

The standard advice calls for a black bucket, and a black bucket looks exactly like what it is. Any dark, watertight container that passes for intentional in a border solves this without losing function.

Dark outdoor storage containers from Amazon come in shapes and sizes that sit in a border without announcing themselves. The only requirement is that the container holds water; anything with drainage holes needs those plugged first.

Tuck a few trailing plants around the base and it reads as planting, not pest control.

4. Plant Accordingly

Lavender and basil, along with citronella grass or honeysuckle, are regularly cited as plants to grow near a bucket trap for added deterrence.

While they do contain compounds with insect-repellent properties, a living plant in the ground doesn’t volatilize enough to meaningfully affect the surrounding air; that effect requires concentrated oil applied directly to skin.

Still, growing them nearby is reasonable and may add some marginal deterrent effect; just remember it isn’t the mechanism doing the heavy lifting.

5. Consider Mosquito Dunks

The difference between a bucket of doom that works reliably and one that works sometimes usually comes down to BTI. Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that produces proteins toxic to mosquito larvae but harmless to everything else in the garden.

Most DIY versions rely on larvae dying from conditions in the bucket alone, which is inconsistent. BTI doesn’t leave it to chance. Used this way, the bucket of doom stops being a gimmick and becomes part of a garden that quietly manages its own problems. Mosquito dunks from Amazon are the standard delivery method; a slow-release disk floats in the water and stays active for up to 30 days.

BTI is also useful beyond the bucket. Anything that holds standing water and isn’t regularly emptied is a potential breeding site, and BTI granules from Amazon handle these without needing to drain or cover them.

The granule format works well for smaller containers where a full dunk would be oversized. Both are widely considered safe for pollinators and fish at labeled rates, which makes the BTI approach more defensible than fermentation methods of uncertain concentration.

FAQs

However you choose to level yours up, remember the bucket trap works better as part of a system than as a standalone intervention. It also performs better when competing breeding sites are eliminated; water in forgotten containers and clogged gutters can breed mosquitoes just as effectively as any intentional trap.

The goal is to make the bucket the most attractive laying option in the garden, which means nothing else should be running a parallel breeding program in the background.

Honestly, a quick early-summer walk to clear obvious water accumulations is worth doing before setting anything up. Good luck!

Many people think of pest control as something that only happens outside. But summer pests can also be a nightmare indoors. If you’re tired of waking up to the telltale buzz of a stray mosquito, finding tiny gnats around your nightstand, or smacking at bugs that bite at night, there is a natural alternative to a chemical spray that can keep pests at bay. What works on a sun-baked patio through volatile plant oils can work indoors too, provided the plant matches your bedroom's microclimate.

Bringing green companions into your sleeping space does more than just throw up a natural defensive shield against night-flying intruders. Tending to living plants indoors provides a psychological boost, infusing your morning and evening routines with a sense of calm and well being. Give these double-duty pest controls and mood boosters the right light and air, appropriate watering, and good drainage, and they will serve you well all summer long. So if you’re bothered by insects that bite at night, make the most of these 7 plants’ impressive credentials to protect your peace of mind and keep your bedtimes bug-free.

Plants that Deter Pests in Bedrooms

Scent-based pest deterrents rely on volatile organic compounds (like linalool, camphor, and menthol) stored within the foliage of certain plants. Indoors, without the natural agitation of wind, these oils sit passively in the plant tissue. To build an effective pest control, position these plants near open windows where cross-breezes can carry the aroma across the room, or place on nightstands so you can brush against the leaves to release a fresh burst of protective fragrance before turning in for the night.

Cultivating Mediterranean herbs and tropical carnivores indoors comes with unique challenges. Most bug-repelling plants crave intense, unfiltered sunlight, so prioritize south or west-facing windowsills, and supplement with focused grow lights if your room falls into shade. Furthermore, modern air conditioning strips essential moisture from indoor air, while creating stagnant pockets where weak plants falter. Grouping containers together or setting up a dedicated humidity tray can ensure plants retain their vigor and don't succumb to crispy, dry edges. A small bedroom humidifier like the Levoit Humidifier from Amazon benefits can also keep foliage healthy.

Standard garden soil is far too heavy for indoor pots. It compacts rapidly, inviting the very root rot and fungus gnats you’re trying to avoid. Instead, use a lightweight indoor potting mix enriched with perlite or pumice for the best drainage. And don’t forget a sensible watering routine, using a long-spouted watering can like the elegant LTSumi Copper Watering Can from Amazon for precise root watering, as well some Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix from Home Depot for a sound moisture balance.

Finally, a note about bedroom life for these plants. While a few of these plants are content to be permanent bedroom residents, sun-worshipping Mediterranean plants should only be viewed as summer guests and are happiest outdoors in the long run. They are great on a blazing summer windowsill when light levels are at their peak, but they will need an autumn transition outside once the summer pest season winds down. Without further ado, let’s meet those gorgeous mood-boosting pest controls.

1. Peppermint

Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) is loaded with a high concentration of crisp menthol. This sharp, refreshing aroma actively disrupts the sensory receptors of mosquitoes and is believed to discourage spiders from spinning webs around headboards. Because peppermint is a vigorous grower, it adapts to indoor life far better than other herbs, quickly filling out a container with lush foliage that instantly lifts the mood.

To keep your peppermint potent, it needs bright indirect light with full morning sun. Never let the soil dry out. Maintain a consistently damp but well-drained medium. Also, for the highest concentration of pest-repelling oils, routinely pinch off the growing tips of the stems. Rotate the pot 180 degrees every week to ensure all sides receive equal sunlight and grow evenly. You can buy Bonnie Plants’ Peppermint from Walmart.

2. Scented Pelargonium

Unlike traditional flowering geraniums, citrus scented pelargonium varieties (Pelargonium graveolens) are prized for their deeply lobed, velvety foliage that acts like a living aerosol. The moment you lightly brush past the leaves on your way to bed, the plant releases a strong, clean burst of citronellal and geraniol into the air, creating a natural block to annoying night-flying gnats. Scented geraniums are exceptionally low-maintenance. You can buy TriStar Citronella Pelargonium Plants from Amazon.

These plants just require a bright south or west-facing window to keep oil production at peak capacity. Water deeply only when the top two inches (5cm) of soil feel dry to the touch, as their semi-succulent stems store water efficiently. Outstanding varieties include Citrosa (aka the mosquito plant) or Citronella. You can boost humidity levels with a mister, such as the vintage-style copper and green Ebristar Plant Mister from Amazon, but don’t worry if you forget, as these plants can tolerate some dry air.

3. Lavender

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) brings an exquisite, dual-purpose luxury to a bright bedroom windowsill. The foliage and flowers are packed with linalool, a soothing compound scientifically proven to naturally lower heart rates and promote deep, restful sleep. While humans find this fragrance calming, though, mosquitoes, moths, and fleas find it repulsive, making it an excellent passive shield for open summer windows. You can buy Munstead English Lavender Plants from Amazon.

Let’s be candid: lavender can be a diva indoors if it doesn't get enough light. You must place it on your sunniest windowsill, where it can absorb at least 6 hours of direct afternoon sun. Lean toward compact, moisture-tolerant lavender varieties such as 'Wee One' or the classic 'Munstead', which stay tidy in small spaces. Water sparingly, allowing the potting medium to dry out between sessions. Add a one-inch layer of fine chicken grit or gravel to the surface. You can buy Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart to ensure optimal drainage.

4. Sweet Basil

Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) is a fantastic, fast-growing option for an open bedroom window. The leaves emit a continuous, spicy cloud of estragole and linalool that forms a powerful deterrent against houseflies and midges as well as skeeters. Its vibrant green leaves provide a cheerful visual pop, and the rich, culinary aroma makes the entire room feel fresh and alive. To keep your basil in a flourishing state all summer long, just give it a warm spot that receives plenty of bright, direct sunlight.

Basil loves consistent moisture, but despises soggy roots, so grow yours in a loose, well-draining potting mix. However, the ultimate secret to longevity is to pinch back the central stems just above a leaf node, and immediately snip away any flowering buds the moment they appear. If basil is allowed to bolt (flower), its oil production plummets, and the leaves lose their potency. Look for compact varieties like Minette or Spicy Globe for window boxes. Buy Bonnie Plants Sweet Basil from Amazon.

5. Catnip

While associated with feline entertainment, catnip (Nepeta cataria) is highly effective in fighting summer bugs. The plant produces a compound called nepetalactone, which is a powerful mosquito repellent in enclosed spaces. It grows with a charming, relaxed habit, featuring soft, scalloped green leaves that release an earthy, mint-tinged aroma when the plant is disturbed. Catnip is easy to cultivate indoors and highly adaptable, thriving in bright indirect light to full sun on a windowsill.

Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry, and give the plant a hard trim every few weeks to promote fresh, bushy growth. Giving the foliage a gentle shake or squeeze before going to bed also activates a fresh wave of nepetalactone. Just don't let the soil dry out to the point of severe wilting, which strips the plant of its vitality. Oh, and if you happen to have cats, keep this plant safely out of reach on a high hanging shelf. You can buy Bonnie Plants Catnip Plants from Walmart.

6. Dwarf Rosemary

Camphor is rosemary's active oil, and mosquitoes and gnats don't like it. Dwarf rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus 'Prostratus') fits neatly on a windowsill and brings a crisp, resinous punch to a bedroom. Camphor confuses the delicate heat-seeking radar of biting gnats, midges, and mosquitoes. Rosemary is exceptionally tough and handles dry, low-humidity air without fuss. It just demands a position in full, uninterrupted sun and a gritty, fast-draining soil mix.

Allow the soil to dry out between waterings, as rosemary roots are susceptible to drowning. Run a small fan in your bedroom to ensure excellent air circulation around your rosemary. Prune regularly to maintain a neat shape – the fragrant clippings can be dried and placed in fabric sachets inside your wardrobe to protect your clothes from moths as well! You can buy Rosemary ‘Prostratus’ from Amazon.

7. Tropical Pitcher Plant

While the other candidates on this list deter pests with scents, the tropical pitcher plant (Nepenthes) takes a uniquely proactive approach to pest control. It features elegant, dangling tendrils that swell into spectacular hollow vessels. The interior of each is lined with slick, wax-like ridges and filled with digestive enzymes. Stray fungus gnats, fruit flies, and midges are lured in by sweet nectar secretions, lose their footing on the slippery walls, and are quietly digested.

This is a jungle native that thrives in bright, indirect light. It is the perfect choice for a humid bedroom or a hanging basket near an eastern window. The main thing is to never use tap water, well water, or standard bottled water for this plant. Instead, use distilled water or fresh rainwater, and maintain high humidity around the plant. Don't ever put houseplant fertilizer into the soil, either; these plants get all their nutrients from bugs. You can buy Savage Gardeners’ Pitcher Plants from Amazon.

Great Plants for Pest Controls

Investing in these organic essentials doesn't just clear the air of pests, but infuses your resting hours with balance, calm, and soothing fragrance and visual harmony. These curated plants are designed to maximize summer vitality and keep your sleeping quarters completely bite-free, and the bonus is that they boost well being with elegance, versatile color notes, and gentle textures. Go on, treat yourself.

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Each time I scroll through my social media feeds during peak growing season, I brace myself for seeing someone singing the praises of boiling water as the ultimate zero-cost weed killer. It sounds like a dream, I know: just boil the kettle, head over to your resident weeds, and scald those invaders into another dimension without a second thought or a single drop of chemicals. But honestly, I’ve always been too nervous to try it in my garden. The internet loves a quick-fix hack, but nature rarely plays by viral rules, and something about pouring boiling water blindly around my prized plants has always felt a bit reckless.

Driven by a mix of healthy skepticism and a desire to make my own weeding routine a little less of a daily chore, I decided to do some deep digging. And what I’ve discovered is fascinating. Boiling water on weeds isn’t quite as devastating as I initially feared – but it isn’t some almighty garden savior, either. Knowledge truly is power here, and I want to help you to feel really empowered the next time you’re staring down that dreaded tuft of chickweed or dandelion. The thing is, boiling water can be a brilliant weed control if used carefully, but it is not a mindless, catch-all solution.

You see, it turns out that a lot of well-meaning gardeners are using this method in the wrong way, inadvertently creating more problems at the soil level. So if you want to safeguard your garden while also avoiding the frustrating, repetitive cycle of never-ending weeding, think twice before reaching for the kettle. Here’s exactly what I found out about the science of scalding, and the high-risk backyard hot spots to avoid at all costs, plus the one place boiling water is genuinely brilliant.

Why Boiling Water is Risky

So why does boiling water kill weeds? To understand why this hack has caught on, let’s think about the sheer, brutal reality of what happens when scalding water hits a plant full force. At its core, boiling water acts as a non-selective contact herbicide. When you pour water heated to 212°F (100°C) onto a common weed, you aren't just giving it a bad day: you are melting the protective waxy cuticle on leaves and rupturing its cell walls.

Within hours, the weed loses its structural integrity and begins to wither. And yes, knowing you can kill weeds with boiling water does seem a satisfying end for these pernicious intruders, shocking soft-leaved annuals like chickweed, hairy bittercress, or young crabgrass before they ever get a chance to seed. However, this thermal shock can be a curse as much as a blessing. Water doesn’t discriminate between a dandelion and the delicate roots of your favorite perennials, or beneficial soil bacteria and mycorrhizal fungi. So if you dump a massive volume of boiling water on a patch of earth, you risk creating a dead zone.

One way around this is to be moderate, and to strike a balance between volume versus frequency. Drenching the same patch of earth with gallons of boiling water week after week is a recipe for sterile, ruined soil. Whereas a highly targeted, low-frequency strike is a safer way of tackling pockets of weeds. That said, for established perennials with deep, chunky taproots (like docks or bindweed), a single splash of boiled water on weeds will only kill the top growth, and before you catch your breath, the root fragments will sprout again. So why not just blitz those fiends with more hot water, you may wonder? Well, I’m glad you asked…

When Not to Use Boiling Water

While the immediate satisfaction of watching a weed wither under a stream of scalding water is undeniable, there is a right and a wrong time and place for the contents of your kettle. Because boiling water is completely non-selective, any usage requires a degree of situational awareness. Applying this DIY weed killer with gusto far and wide risks serious, irreversible collateral damage to the very plants and plant nutrients you are trying to protect and nurture. Extreme caution is advised, as well as a sensible approach, in order to avoid making a terrible weeding mistake. It’s all about knowing where and when you can use it – and perhaps more importantly, where you absolutely shouldn’t use it. Here are the 3 highly vulnerable backyard areas where you should never unleash the kettle…

1. Near Shallow Rooted Shrubs

When contemplating the dangers of thermal weeding, this discovery alone could make your hand freeze on the kettle handle. It boils down (sorry) to the fact that a plant's root system is its life support. For shallow-rooted ornamental shrubs like hydrangeas, azaleas, and rhododendrons, that life support is just a few inches beneath the soil surface. Pour a deluge of boiling water within 2 feet (60cm) of these shrubs, and you aren't just wrecking weeds. That boiling water percolates rapidly through the top layer of soil, cooking the delicate feeder roots of precious shrubs, leading to stunted growth, withered leaves,and even plant failure.

Tackling weeds around these sensitive shrubs requires more than one control method. For annual weeds like chickweed, which spread like a dense carpet, the key is timely, targeted surface intervention before they drop thousands of seeds into flowerbeds. For tough perennials like dandelions or plantains, which love to anchor right at the base of shrubs, you need safe tools that allow for clean extraction. For reliable precision that is simple to use, the CobraHead Original Weeder and Garden Hand Tool from Amazon is great for tricky spaces, lifting bittercress rosettes neatly with its fingernail claw without disturbing sensitive shrubs.

Weeding around prized ornamentals doesn't have to be a drag if you head out for a quick, mindful dusk session, when the soil is damp and yielding. For dandelions that loiter too close to these shrubs, I’d heartily recommend a bit of “weed therapy” with my favorite weeding tool: the screwdriver. If you haven’t got one to hand, the Performance Tool 10-inch Slotted Screwdriver from Walmart is very satisfying on tough taproots. Just pick one that is 10 inches (25cm) deep for the cleanest, most effective leverage.

2. On Landscape Fabric

Landscape fabric isn’t a given, but it is a feature of more yards these days. So if you have it installed under gravel pathways or mulch beds, adding boiling water is a critical mistake. Most standard landscape fabrics are woven or non-woven geotextiles crafted from synthetic polymers. Some budget options are sheets of perforated plastic. Exposing these synthetic materials to extreme heat causes them to break down rapidly. When you pour boiling water onto this fabric to target sneaky annual weeds like crabgrass or goosegrass, you risk warping, shrinking, or even melting it.

The long-term danger is a silent one. Melting these fabrics creates gaping holes that invite a fresh invasion of opportunistic perennial weeds like dandelion or thistle seeds to take root. But worse than that, it releases microplastics and chemical stabilizers directly into the upper layers of your soil, contaminating the earth. Even heavy-duty woven fabrics designed for longevity won’t hold up to repeated scalding without losing their structural integrity. Instead of a quick fix, you end up with brittle, compromised fabric and an environmental headache.

In these cases, just be observant about the location of the weeds. Sneaky annuals often germinate in the organic detritus on top of the fabric. Rather than trying to scald weeds, use surface-slicing tools that cleanly sever the weed at the soil line without tearing or heating the fabric. One speedy slicer that is perfect for mass-clearing mats of weeds in these areas is the True Temper Action Hoe with Hardwood Handle from Amazon, with its double-edged scuffle head, which slices at the fabric line without wrecking the barrier. In areas where you suspect seeds have popped up through tight seams in fabric, use a fast-acting contact spray like the Spruce Weed & Grass Killer Manual Spray Starter Kit from Walmart.

3. Along Raised Bed Edges

Raised beds offer perfectly drained soil and a haven for homegrown treats. But because they are watered frequently and retain moisture so well, their interior edges and damp corners are ripe spots for weedy rogues. If you spot a cluster of hairy bittercress, chickweed, or dandelions hugging the inner perimeter of your beds, your first instinct might be to reach for the kettle. Don't do it! The damp, sheltered microclimate along a raised bed's edge is home to some of our soil’s most beneficial friends: earthworms.

Earthworms are the unsung heroes of many a yard, constantly aerating the soil, improving drainage, and depositing nutrient-rich castings right where crops and flowers need them most. Flush the inside edges of a raised bed with piping hot water, and the extreme heat floods down into those damp perimeter channels, sady cooking worms and microorganisms clustered below the surface. Those few seconds of weed mania could set soil health back months, potentially wiping out a year of growing. Furthermore, if you use treated wood or specific liners, repeated exposure to boiling water can accelerate degradation of materials.

Tackling edge-dwelling weeds relies on precision methods and getting the timing right. To keep weeding simple and satisfying, target perimeter weeds at dusk when the soil is damp. By swapping the kettle for mechanical tools, you can easily lever out stubborn perennial taproots from tight corners while keeping worms safe. One of my favorite tools for surgical precision in awkward corners is the Hokuru Hori Hori Japanese Weeding Knife from Amazon, but you can also save your back with the vice-like grip of old faithful, Grampa’s Weeder Stand-Up Weed Puller Tool from Walmart. Extraction satisfaction guaranteed!

When You Can Use Boiling Water

At this point, your kettle is probably looking a little sorry for itself. But take heart, there is one place where boiling water is a brilliant weed killer. If you have weeds popping up through the cracks in concrete driveways, stone patios, or brick garden paths, feel free to unleash the bubbling beast: the risks of collateral damage are practically zero. There are no shallow shrub roots to cook and no landscape fabrics to melt, and the compacted area beneath paving stones isn’t a primary haven for friendly earthworms.

Pavement weeds are often young annuals or shallow-rooted grasses, so a targeted pour easily collapses their cells. For established, perennial weeds with thicker taproots, this may only smother the top layer of growth. But don’t forget your trusty screwdriver, which can help to lever out these taproots. To save on repeat kettle trips, use boiling water in tandem with another personal favorite. Once scalded weeds are swept away, some polymeric sand can shut down the pathway weed factory for good. Rhino Power Bond Plus Polymeric Super Sand from Walmart can easily be worked into joints and crevices to seal out weed seeds for up to 5 years.

Best Weeding Warriors

Winning the war against the weed factory means a multi-pronged approach for different parts of the yard, and different weeds. Established perennials like docks and dandelions need surgical interventions like that flathead screwdriver to prise out taproots cleanly. Annuals like hairy bittercress, crabgrass, and chickweed require a different strategy, aimed at seed prevention. If you find weeds wedged tightly against delicate ornamentals, there’s another method I love called exhaustion shearing. Use a pair of garden scissors to snip the weed at the soil line every 4-5 days. This starves the root, quietly killing it without impacting nearby beauties.

Another aspect of effective long-term weed control is preventing stubborn weed seeds from ever seeing the light of day. Planting dense, ground-covering ornamentals like hostas, lady’s mantle, or heuchera chokes out weed seedlings before they sprout. To double your defenses after a weeding session, immediately cover beds with 3 inches (8cm) of mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon, ensuring any dormant weed seeds stay trapped in the dark. By combining these interventions with some sensible hoeing and hand-pulling, as well as a few targeted kettle trips, you can stay ahead of those pesky weeds. So keep these curated essentials on standby as summer gets underway.

Outsmarting weeds isn't about finding one magical quick-fix, but combining smart weed controls. While annuals require rapid surface prevention, tough perennials demand surgical root removal. So don’t ditch the kettle, but use it as part of a series of hand tools, thoughtful groundcovers, and protective mulches. That way, you can protect your plants, keep your joints and your earthworms happy, and permanently weaken the weed explosion. Just don’t forget to reward yourself with a hot drink once you’re done!

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I've always been a little skeptical about predator decoys. The theory is simple enough: hang a realistic-looking bird of prey above your vegetable garden and smaller birds will steer clear, leaving your carefully tended crops alone. But do they actually work, or do birds quickly realise they're being fooled?

As someone who prefers to keep a wildlife-friendly garden, I was intrigued. After all, netting can be effective, but it can also be unsightly and potentially hazardous to critters if not installed correctly. Predator decoys promise a gentler (and, admittedly, more hilarious-looking) solution, using nature's food chain rather than physical barriers to keep hungry visitors at bay.

That made my veggie patch the perfect testing ground. My strawberries are growing in a small raised bed that's just beginning to produce ripe fruit, making them an irresistible target for birds. Or at least they should be; so far, the biggest threat to my harvest has actually been my two children, aged four and one, who seem to view ripe strawberries as a first-come, first-served buffet. (Spoiler: the decoy doesn't appear to work on small humans).

Still, I was curious to see whether it would deter the local bird population. After all, there's a big difference between a product sounding sensible in theory and proving useful in a real garden. So, with that in mind, I treated myself to a decoy of my own...

Setting Up the Predator Decoy

One thing I quickly discovered is that some predator decoys can be surprisingly awkward to position. The one I fished out of my daughter's toybox (yes, a grandparent gifted her one by mistake; what of it?) needed to appear as though it was hovering or flying above the crops rather than sitting motionless on the ground, and this presented a bit of a challenge in my garden.

Now, I wasn't prepared to install a permanent pole or bracket just for the sake of an experiment, so I improvised by attaching the decoy to a pyramid trellis above my vegetable bed. As you can see above, the result looked, frankly, a little bonkers.

That said, gardeners with mature trees, fences, pergolas, or existing brackets will likely find installation much easier. In the right setting, a hanging decoy could look considerably more convincing than my makeshift setup.

Did It Actually Work?

Surprisingly, I think it might have. While it's impossible to know exactly what the birds are thinking (I can't even figure out what my own birth month bird has in mind), my strawberries have remained largely untouched throughout the trial. More tellingly, I've noticed sparrows and other small birds happily landing in nearby planters and flower beds while giving the area around the strawberry patch a noticeably wider berth.

Yes, fine; that's hardly scientific proof, but it does suggest the decoy is having some effect. If birds were completely ignoring it, I'd expect them to treat every part of the garden equally. Instead, they seem perfectly comfortable visiting other areas while avoiding the space directly beneath the faux predator.

Still, no deterrent is guaranteed to work forever. Many experts suggest birds can eventually become accustomed to static decoys, particularly if they're left in the same position for weeks on end. Moving them regularly is often recommended to maintain the illusion of danger.

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If you're struggling with birds gobbling up your fruit and want a wildlife-friendly deterrent, I'd say a predator decoy is worth considering. It's easy to install, doesn't harm wildlife, and appears to have offered at least some protection for my strawberry crop.

That said, you'll need somewhere suitable to position it, and you may have to get creative if your garden lacks convenient structures. My trellis-mounted setup wasn't exactly a triumph of garden design, but hey, if it helps preserve a few extra strawberries, I can live with that.

Just don't expect it to keep determined toddlers away from your harvest. For that, I'm still waiting for someone to invent a more effective solution.

June is when patio season actually gets going, and also when mosquitoes, flies, and no-see-ums (also called biting midges) show up in force. The two things are connected — warmth drives both — and for a lot of people the bugs win. A spray handles it for a few hours. These plants handle it differently, and the space ends up better for having them in it.

The mechanism is real enough: volatile oils in fragrant plants interfere with how insects find food and hosts. Getting a handle on which bugs are actually causing problems is part of dealing with common garden pests effectively but for general patio use, this list covers most of what shows up in June.

Let's explore what you can plant to have a swat-free summer.

Fragrant Plants That Help Repel Patio Pests

These eight plants make this list — some that show up in every garden center and a couple that tend to get overlooked despite working just as well. All of them hold their own near outdoor seating, whether in containers or tucked into a border close to where people actually sit.

1. Lavender

The reputation is deserved, though the mechanism gets oversimplified. It's not just that lavender smells nice to people and bad to bugs — it's specifically the linalool in lavender oil that mosquitoes and flies avoid. June bloom pushes the oil concentration up, so the repellent effect peaks right when the patio gets the most use.

Container placement close to seating does more work than a lavender hedge planted at the garden's edge — proximity matters here. A 2-in-1 patio planter and bench from Amazon let's you sit right between the plants where they'll do the most good. Lavender does best in the heat with well-drained soil left to dry between waterings.

2. Lemongrass

Citronella candles use a synthetic version of what lemongrass produces naturally, which is worth knowing. The plant releases oils continuously from the foliage without needing heat, and the scent runs cleaner than any candle version of it. Tender in most climates — put out after frost risk passes, back inside before fall. They get big fast; a single clump in a large pot can hit 4 feet (1.2m) by midsummer. Brush the leaves when the ambient effect feels light. That releases a second wave of oil that carries for a while. Get an established lemongrass plant delivered straight to your door from Fast Growing Trees.

3. Rosemary

Camphor is the active compound in rosemary, and mosquitoes and flies don't like it. As a passive container plant it offers background deterrence — useful against flies in particular. The effect jumps when stems get disturbed or burned, which is why some people toss a sprig onto a grill fire. Beyond the pest angle, rosemary holds its structure through summer heat better than most herbs, so it pulls its weight as a container plant visually too. Give it infrequent watering, full sun, and it pretty much runs itself. Find heirloom rosemary seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon.

4. Scented Geranium

Not the standard bedding geraniums — the scented-leaf types, which smell nothing like the flowers and everything like citrus, rose, or mint depending on variety. Citrus-scented ones work best against mosquitoes. The oils are in the leaves and release on contact, so placement where people brush past — near chair arms, along a path edge — gets more out of them than a pot sitting in a corner. These are tender perennials that overwinter well indoors. Find a 'Fingerbowl Lemon' scented geranium from GingersGreenhouse on Etsy.

5. Marigold

Pyrethrum is the compound — the same one extracted for use in commercial insecticides — and marigold foliage produces it in amounts that register to mosquitoes, aphids, and whiteflies at very close range. French types run more potent than African ones and stay compact enough for container use. Get them in now and they'll carry through to fall. There's a secondary benefit worth mentioning: whitefly pressure on nearby edible plants tends to drop when marigolds are close, which is a practical bonus if herbs or vegetables share the patio space. Find a 12-pack of French marigolds from Lowe's.

6. Basil

Estragole and linalool are the relevant oils in basil — both put mosquitoes and flies off, and neither requires the plant to be touched to work. Sweet basil is widely available and does the job; lemon basil runs hotter on the citrus end and may edge it out against flies. A pot on the table is about as close-range pest deterrence as it's possible to get, and it doubles as a herb within arm's reach. Pinch the flowers off regularly — once basil bolts, the oil production drops, and so does the effect. Find Genovese sweet basil seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon.

7. Peppermint

Menthol is broad-spectrum against pests — mosquitoes, ants, and flies all avoid it — which puts peppermint ahead of some narrower options on this list. Containers are the right approach anyway since it spreads aggressively in the ground. Brushing against the plant releases a significant oil burst, so anywhere foot traffic is regular is a good spot. A raised bed from Walmart establishes the right growing conditions and keeps it from spreading into the rest of the garden. Keep it in its own container — it crowds out neighboring plants fairly quickly if given shared space.

8. Lemon Verbena

Sharper and more volatile than lemon balm, more immediate than lemongrass — lemon verbena has a citrus scent that mosquitoes and flies find genuinely off-putting rather than mildly inconvenient. The oils are most active when the foliage is warm and in direct sun, which happens to be the same window when patio usage peaks. It gets shrubby and fairly large by late summer given decent conditions. Frost-tender, so it comes in for winter — though honestly, even without the pest repellent angle, it's worth growing near a seating area just for what it smells like on a warm afternoon. Find 2-pack lemon verbena plants from Walmart.

Summer is here and with it come the ultimate picnic crashers: ants. Lately, I have seen tiny ant hills in every sidewalk crack throughout my whole neighborhood and I have even found them, to my chagrin, in my vegetable garden. Consistent warm weather sends ants into a frenzy. They begin foraging for food and establishing new colonies which is why all those new ant hills have popped up in your yard.

Getting rid of ants might be on your gardening checklist if they are making a mess of your yard or if they are a species of ant that bites or stings. Ants are social insects and, like humans, they are omnivores. Keeping your outdoor spaces free of food debris and fallen fruit from trees can go a long way. But sometimes you need a little help to keep ant populations at bay.

Here are five natural ways to get rid of ants and their hills so you can enjoy your summer without the creepy crawlers or their dirt mounds all over your yard.

5 Natural Solutions to Get Rid of Ants

Ants can quickly establish a colony in your yard or garden and even migrate into your home. Most species of ant are harmless to humans but some can bite or sting. Not what you want when you’re gardening or trying to enjoy a backyard cookout! Ant hills also don’t look very nice in the middle of your ornamental garden.

Typically, ants are drawn in by food which you can often control. Picking up fallen fruit from fruit trees (a Garden Weasel nut gatherer from Ace Hardware makes this easy), getting rid of aphids and their ant-attracting honeydew, and regularly working your soil will help keep them from building a nest.

Whether you are finding ant hills in your lawn, between your patio pavers, container plantings or garden beds, here are some simple and natural ways of getting rid of them without resorting to harsh pesticides.

1. Boiling Water

Boiling water works best in areas of your yard where you don’t mind killing other plants, like cracks between pavers that contain weeds in addition to ant hills. Pouring 2-3 gallons of boiling water on an ant hill will kill many ants, but also disrupt the structure of the colony. Soak the mound thoroughly with the boiling water for best results.

2. Flatten the Mound

A simple and non-lethal option is to flatten the ant hill with a shovel or spade. This will disrupt their colony and make them move somewhere else. It might take a few repeated flattenings for them to get the message. If you have ants like fire ants or Asian needle ants, which can harm humans, do not do this. It is safer to call a pest professional so you don’t get a deadly sting.

3. Boric Acid Bait

Creating a boric acid bait is a good solution for ant control if their hill is located somewhere near delicate plants that you don’t want to harm. When I was transplanting tomatoes into my raised bed a few weeks ago, I learned that an ant colony had taken over and they became frenzied because of my intrusion. A boric acid bait is perfect for this situation.

To make boric acid ant bait, mix equal parts boric acid, available from Amazon, and sugar water. Pour the mixture into small containers like bottle caps and leave them near the ant colony. The sugar water will attract the ants and the boric acid will kill them.

4. Flooding

A good old garden hose can come in handy for taking care of ant hills on your sidewalk or in your lawn. Flood the ant hill thoroughly with a steady stream of water. A few minutes of soaking will disturb the structure of the ant hill and the ants will disperse.

5. Dish Soap

Another simple solution that won’t kill your grass is a mixture of dish soap and water. Add a few drops of dish soap to a gallon of water and pour it into the ant hill. The dish soap will break the surface tension of the water which will allow it to drown the ants, killing the colony.

I wish you an ant-free summer. Happy gardening!

June is when weeds seem to appear overnight. One minute your borders are neat and tidy, and the next they're crowded with unwanted guests, leaving you with the less-than-fun task of removing them all before your favorite plants get smothered.

Luckily for me, the professional gardener I turn to for advice has more than 20 years of experience – and also happens to be my husband, so you can rest assured he has excellent judgment. And according to him, the best way to remove weeds doesn't involve reaching for a bottle of weed killer at all.

I know, I know; a lot of people tend to turn to chemical weed killers, but they're rarely the best solution. After all, herbicides don't just harm beneficial insects, contaminate soil, and negatively affect the wider garden ecosystem; they can also damage nearby plants if applied incorrectly, particularly on windy days or in mixed borders.

With that in mind, then, what's the safest and most effective option?

The Best Way to Remove June Weeds

From dousing them in boiling water to dusting them with baby powder to (ahem) timing things perfectly, there are a lot of weeding hacks on social media. If you want a gardener's perspective on the matter, though, the best solution is also the oldest in the playbook: dig them out.

"For persistent weeds, digging is always my first choice," he says. "If you remove the entire root system, you're much less likely to see the weed return. It takes a little more effort upfront, but it's usually the most effective long-term solution."

Of course, perennial weeds such as docks, dandelions, and bindweed can quickly regrow from root fragments left behind in the soil. Carefully loosening the ground with a hand fork and removing as much of the root as possible gives you the best chance of preventing repeat growth (if you want that, mind you; one gardener's trash is another's treasure, and some people quite like sharing their garden with their birth month weed).

So, digging. Except, when summer growth is in full swing and weeds seem to be appearing faster than you can remove them, you should swap your go-to tool for a garden hoe.

"Hoeing is one of the quickest and most efficient ways to stay on top of weeds during summer," my tame gardener explains. "On a warm, dry day, slicing through young weeds just below the soil surface can clear large areas in minutes. The severed weeds are left on the surface where they dry out and die."

He adds that hoeing isn't just about speed. "If you're regularly hoeing little and often, you stop weeds from becoming established in the first place. That's far easier than dealing with large, deep-rooted weeds later in the season."

The key to all of this is timing, as hoeing works best when the soil is dry and weeds are still small. Regular light hoeing can prevent weeds from becoming established, reducing the need for more labor-intensive digging later in the season (which, basically, means a little work now will save you a massive job later).

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Unlike chemical weed killers, both digging and hoeing tackle weeds without harming the wider garden environment. They protect pollinators, preserve soil health, and eliminate the risk of accidentally damaging nearby plants (because remember: weed killers don't just affect the weeds you're targeting).

I guess the key takeaway is this: June may be peak weed season, but keeping them under control doesn't have to involve harsh chemicals (and shouldn't, if you want to do right by Mother Nature).

A combination of digging out stubborn weeds and regularly hoeing young growth can keep borders looking tidy while supporting a healthier garden ecosystem. And a few minutes spent tackling weeds each week? Well, that doesn't sound like much of a hardship if that's all it takes to stop them taking over for the rest of the summer.

Ah, the summer sun is sweet. We wait all winter for it, then finally June arrives and out we go to the garden patio. But as you enjoy the garden in summer, so do the mosquitos who hang around the patio and look for opportunities to fly into the house. Many of us no longer use toxic sprays so what’s a gardener to do?

One appealing alternative is to rely on plants that deter pests, or, more specifically, scented vines that repel mosquitos. That’s right, the same fragrant vines you love carry scents that send mosquitos over to the neighbor’s yard. These are not weird plants with names you cannot pronounce, but familiar favorites like jasmine and clematis.

These vines will do double duty, framing your windows and doorways with beautiful flowers and foliage and also keeping those mosquitos at bay.

1. Jasmine

I have a jasmine vine (Jasminum spp.) running up an oak tree on the edge of my patio in France, and it fills the entire area with an intoxicating scent in spring and early summer. The vines can climb to 20 feet (6 meters), plenty long enough to surround a door or window in your house. They need at least six hours of sun a day and regular water to keep them healthy. My vine is utterly lovely but it was only recently that I learned that it also keeps mosquitoes away. Grow on a trellis like this tall garden trellis from Wayfair to frame your door beautifully.

Yes, jasmine is known for its ability to keep mosquitoes away. This applies both to common jasmine (Jasminum officinale) and Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac). Both are extremely effective in repelling mosquitoes. This vine will naturally repel mosquitoes, so it's a great choice to plant in doorways and around windows in USDA zones 7-10.

2. Clematis

Clematis is a wonderful climbing vine offers spectacular flowers as well as mosquito protection. Clematis flowers are amazing and they come in many forms including saucers, bells, tubes, tulips, open bells, doubles, and semi-doubles. The hues are special too, cool pinks and purples but also blue, white, magenta and yellow.

Give your clematis a full sun location and soil that drains well. Walls and doorways are ideal locations to grow this woody, deciduous vine that can grow to 20 feet (7m) tall. Most bloom in spring or summer and are hardy to USDA hardiness zone 4.

3. Damask Rose

The Damask rose (Rosa x damascena) is an ancient hybrid that is famed for its intense fragrance and delicate ballerina-pink blossoms. It is considered by many to be the queen of flowers.

The fragrance of the Damask rose is sweet and honey-like, with spicy and cognac notes. The scent is so robust that it is often used in perfumes and essential oils. It is a climbing rose that can grow to 7 feet (2m) tall and 3 feet (1m) wide in USDA zones 4-9.

4. Ivy Geraniums

Ivy geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum) are easy to grow and produce bright and beautiful blossoms. They do double duty in the garden, contributing both as a beautiful climbing plant and by repelling mosquitoes. But that’s not all. Their strong fragrance also repels other unpleasant bugs like ants, whiteflies, spider mites, aphids, Japanese beetles, thrips, and cockroaches.

Although they are called climbing geraniums, they also can cascade beautifully. Planted in full sun in well-draining soil, these geraniums grow vigorously and flower for long periods, making them a top choice for vertical gardening in USDA zones 9-11.

We defend our kids and our pets. Why not protect the vegetables growing in the garden? A healthy garden is a delight, but when the vegetables are attacked by pests, it turns into a nightmare. It’s rare you are going to see one type of pest - much more likely to see a dozen.

There are many ways to approach the problem of pests in the garden, ranging from closing your eyes and pretending it’s not happening to bringing out the big guns in the shape of chemical pesticides.

We’ve got the perfect solution for you: create a 3-ring “firewall” for pests around the vegetable garden, using physical barriers, biological treatments and chemical treatments. One of our favorites is the push-pull pest control method. It uses plants to protect your plants.

Creating a 3-Ring "Firewall" for Pests

Like so many ideas that are trending on Instagram and Tik-Tok, creating a 3-ring firewall for pests is as old as the hills. It refers to a comprehensive pest control strategy designed to control and prevent pest infestations.

Our grandparents and their parents before them may not have called it a 3-ring firewall, but they did use a layered approach to pest control, with physical barriers, chemical treatments, and biological treatments to manage pest infestations.

Each of these pest control strategies works better for some pests than others. A pest that is not impacted by one of these factors is likely to be stopped by one of the other strategies. By using multiple strategies, this 3-ring firewall increases the chances of successfully managing pests.

1. Physical Interventions

Physical barriers in a 3-ring firewall act like walls to keep pests out. If you are using this approach to keep pests (like termites) out of the house, physical barriers might be sealing up cracks and blocking entry points.

Gardens usually don’t have pest “entry points,” but you can use other types of physical barriers, like mesh screens which can be found on Amazon. One of our favorite tricks is to install other plants to create push-pull pest control.

Let’s use the example of maize as a garden crop you want to protect. To use this push-pull strategy, install plants that repel ("push") pests of maize. This could be a plant like Desmodium that drives away stemborers from a maize crop. Plant these all the way around the perimeter of the garden. This keeps pests out of the maize.

At the same time, you install another group of plants some distance from the main maize crop to “pull” the pests over there. These should be plants that the pests prefer to the maize. In this example, you might plant napier grass that lures stemborers away from maize.

Another name for this strategy is “trap crop.” Essentially, you plant a sacrificial crop that you are giving to the insect pests in order to keep them out of your best crop. For example, nasturtiums attract a wide variety of pests, like leafhoppers, cabbage worms and aphids. So you plant a bed of nasturtiums and these pests leave your garden crops to head over to the nasturtiums.

2. Chemical Interventions

The second “ring” of the 3-ring firewall is chemical treatments. The most popular of these are pesticides - and for good reason. They are some of the most effective pest control methods available since they act quickly to kill the pests.

The best thing about pesticides is that you can find products that target specific pests. Other chemical options include repellents and bait. However, all toxic chemicals are known to injure people, pets, and the environment so use sparingly and with caution.

Gentler options like homemade insecticidal soap, neem oil, or diatomaceous earth are a good place to start, but they don't distinguish between pests and pollinators so use them carefully. You can find neem oil and food-grade diatomaceous earth from Amazon or your local garden center.

3. Biological Interventions

Biological pest control is slower than chemicals when it comes to reducing the number of pests in your garden. But it is safer and does not carry the same risks to humans, animals and the environment. It is an eco-friendly approach that is safe for humans and doesn’t harm beneficial insects like pollinators. That makes it a sustainable long-term solution.

This approach includes introducing natural enemies of the pests in your garden. Beneficial insects hunt and eat bad bugs you don't want eating your vegetables. For example, you might release ladybugs in the garden to take out aphids. Parasitic wasps can also be used to target specific pests effectively. It can also use parasites or natural pathogens to take out specific pest populations. An example would be using nematodes to target soil-dwelling pests.

Ticks don’t wander randomly — they sit at the edge of vegetation and wait. Creating a barrier around your yard cuts off the route they use to cross from wild areas into your lawn, and it takes an afternoon to install.

Most tick encounters in a yard don’t happen out in the open lawn. Ticks want humidity and cover, so the real pressure point is the perimeter — wherever mowed grass runs into brush, shrubs, leaf litter, or a tree line. That’s where they sit and wait. It’s also where an intervention actually does something.

The strategy behind preventing ticks in the landscape is straightforward: create conditions ticks don’t want to cross. A dry, exposed barrier of wood chips or bark mulch does exactly that. Ticks tend to avoid open ground where they’re exposed. A strip of wood chips laid along the perimeter of the lawn acts as a zone that’s unfavorable to them.

How the Tick Barrier Works

Ticks desiccate fast. Unlike many insects, they can’t regulate water loss, which makes dry open surfaces absolutely hostile rather than just inconvenient. Wood chips tend to dry out more quickly on the surface than soil and don’t hold the cool, shaded humidity ticks need to survive in transit. A three-foot (90cm) strip isn’t an absolute barrier, but it’s wide enough that most ticks won’t attempt the crossing. They’ll stay on the shaded, vegetated side where conditions suit them.

The barrier also works as a visual boundary that separates managed lawn from the wilder areas where ticks breed and shelter. Keeping that edge clean and defined, rather than letting grass gradually blur into brush, removes the gradual transition zone ticks rely on to move inward. A maintained chip strip makes clear where the yard ends and the habitat begins, and ticks tend to stay on their side of it.

Building a Tick Barrier

Run the barrier along the edges where tick pressure is actually coming from. This includes where the lawn meets wooded areas, overgrown borders, brush piles, or any dense vegetation that stays shaded and damp.

It doesn’t need to circle the entire yard, just the sections that border habitat where ticks breed and shelter. Before laying chips, mow or clear the strip down to bare ground so the barrier sits on a clean base rather than over existing vegetation. It is also important to remove honeysuckle, which is a big tick-magnet because it draws in deer and holds humidity.

Lay landscape fabric down first if you want the barrier to stay functional longer—without it, wood chips can break down into organic matter over a few seasons and can eventually become tick-friendly habitat themselves. Landscape fabric from Amazon pinned flat before adding chips extends the barrier’s effective life and limits weed growth through the strip.

Add three to four inches (7–10cm) of wood chips or shredded bark on top, keeping the full three-foot (90cm) width. Top up the chips every season or two as they break down—the ongoing maintenance is minimal. Pine bark nuggets, available from Home Depot, or playground mulch are good options.

Reduce Mouse Habitat Near the Perimeter

The wood chip barrier handles the crossing problem, but ticks don’t appear at the perimeter on their own, they arrive on hosts. White-footed mice are among the primary carriers of the Lyme disease bacterium (Borrelia burgdorferi and sometimes B. mayonii) and they’re common in most suburban and rural settings. Reducing the habitat that shelters mice near the yard’s edges addresses the tick population closer to its source, rather than just blocking movement after the fact.

Brush piles, wood stacked directly on the ground, dense low shrubs against the fence line, and accumulated leaf litter along borders are all mouse habitat. Moving wood off the ground onto a rack and clearing debris from the perimeter removes shelter without major effort.

It won’t eliminate mice from the area, but it makes the immediate perimeter less useful as nesting territory. That has a real effect on how many ticks are lurking nearby.

Keep Deer Out of the Garden

Adult blacklegged ticks use deer as their primary reproductive host. A single animal moving through a yard can be carrying several of them, dropping ticks along the way that then sit and wait for whatever comes next. Keeping deer out doesn’t just protect plants. It cuts down on how many ticks get introduced into the immediate area in the first place, which is a different kind of protection than the barrier provides. Fencing is the most reliable method, but deer-resistant planting along the perimeter helps in lower-pressure situations.

A deer fencing needs to be at least eight feet (2.4m) tall to reliably deter deer, which isn’t practical everywhere. Motion-activated deterrents, strong-scented repellent plants, and double-fence systems that exploit deer’s reluctance to jump into confined spaces are alternatives that work in some settings.

Deer repellent spray from Home Depot can be applied around the perimeter and reapplied after rain. It's a lower-effort option that reduces deer incursion without permanent installation. It’s not foolproof, but combined with the chip barrier and reduced mouse habitat, it adds another layer to an already effective system.

Time spent soaking in the peace of a backyard is precious. Whether your little slice of heaven is a chair on a deck or a lounger on a lawn, you’ll have spent a long time longing for those first stolen hours of summer warmth, nursing a morning coffee or evening glass of wine… only for a grim buzzing noise to disrupt the peace and vibrate repeatedly against your ear. You know the one I mean. Just like that, your backyard bliss is shattered, you’re smacking the air in frustration, and you face the prospect of swallowing a cloud of chemical bug spray or retreating inside, as gnats, horseflies or skeeters hijack spaces you’ve worked hard to enjoy.

Fortunately, there is a lovelier alternative to bug spray if you want to reclaim your yard, and no, I’m not talking about citronella candles. Creating a no-fly zone is as simple as creating a few well-placed containers filled with flowers that repel flies. Specific container garden classics and joyful new kids on the block don’t just look lovely, they also pack a serious punch – heavenly to us, unbearable to buggy interlopers. Packed with potent essential oils and natural compounds, these fragrant fly repellent flowers are nature’s way of nudging unwanted winged visitors towards the exit. So if you haven’t yet planted a few plants that repel flies, now’s your chance.

By growing these 6 potent container-based bloomers, you don’t just add color and fragrance to your yard, you gain the ultimate buggy superpower: mobility. You can station these flowers that deter flies where you need them most, whether that’s flanking the path next to your patio lounger or standing guard on a sunny windowsill. Now's the time to get these gorgeous natural security systems to work. Grab these aromatic container superheroes, and you can add color and clout while kicking those winged beasties out. Here are the 6 flowers that will keep summer's most annoying party-crashers at bay, and all while looking super fine.

Best Flowers to Repel Flies

Harnessing the power of flowers that keep flies away is a brilliant strategy for container gardeners. These Big 6 varieties represent the best of the best for flying pest control, offering a mix of hardy flowering perennials and fast-growing annuals. Some devote their entire aromatic punch into one glorious season of pest control, soaking the air with scent. Others are in it for the long haul, and can keep your yards protected in the loveliest way for many summers to come. Together, they create a layered defense that targets a range of common backyard nuisances, from houseflies and fruit flies to mosquitoes and midges.

Because these plants rely on the evaporation of natural oils to deter pests, planting them in May ensures they have ample time to establish robust root systems and lush foliage before summer heat pushes those potent fragrances to their peak. Whatever your USDA zone may be, the beauty of container gardening is that you can bypass poor backyard earth and give these plants the exact conditions they crave, whether that's a lean, sharp-draining, gritty mix for Mediterranean types or a moisture-retentive loam for hungrier flowering security.

To set your pest-busting flowers up to start repelling flies from day one, container preparation is key. Before planting, ensure your chosen pots have excellent drainage holes to prevent waterlogging (which can reduce a plant's health and oil potency). Use a soil meter to test your potting mixes before planting, ensuring it is primed for your perfumed fly-busters. You can buy the Dr Meter 3-in-1 Soil Moisture, Light, and pH Tester from Amazon for a battery-free check of moisture levels and pH needs.

Boosting starter plants with an organic root-growing stimulant during planting will also encourage rapid growth so your flowers can hit their stride in short order. You can buy Bonide Garden Rich Root & Grow Stimulator Concentrate from Walmart to help stimulate early root formation in these flowers dedicated to your no-fly zone.

1. Lavender

When it comes to fragrant pest control, lavender (Lavendula) is the classic purple powerhouse. Those iconic, slender flower spikes, in shades of deep violet, powdery blue, and soft pink, are loaded with linalool, an aromatic compound that acts as a cloaking device against houseflies, mosquitoes, gnats, and moths. To maximize its bug-busting potential, potted lavender needs a position that receives 6-8 hours of baking sunlight daily. These oils are most potent in mid-to-late afternoon heat. Station containers right next to outdoor seating, on steps, or on a sunny windowsill where a passing breeze can waft that protective scent hither and yon.

Avoid the temptation to pamper your container lavender. She thrives on neglect and detests wet feet, which can halt oil production. Opt for unglazed terracotta or clay pots that allow moisture to evaporate through walls. Fill with a lean potting mix, such as Soil Sunrise Custom Lavender Potting Soil Mix from Lowe’s, amended with plenty of coarse sand or perlite. Look for robust cultivars like ‘Phenomenal’ or ‘Munstead’. You can buy Hirt’s Garden’s Lavender 'Munstead' Plants from Walmart for dynamic purple spikes, compact growth, and natural oil potency for an explosion of aromatic blooms.

2. Scented Geraniums

Bright red zonal geraniums are a porch staple as summer rolls near, but if you’re after fly deterrents, it’s their scented-leaf geranium cousins (Pelargonium graveolens) you need to stockpile. Most of these flowering plants need blossoms to reach their full potential, but the potent oils of scented pelargoniums are stored in the cells of their foliage. The moment a winged guest brushes past, the cells rupture and release a cloud of fragrance that masks the environmental cues houseflies, mosquitoes, and midges use to hunt. Look for lemon-scented 'Citronella' (or 'Mosquitaway'), deeply sweet 'Attar of Roses', or citrus-packed 'Orange Fizz'. You can buy Citronella Geraniums from Burpee to get a headstart on skeeter season.

Though they produce pretty clusters of lavender or pink flowers from June to frost, their bug-busting potency remains active all summer, even before the buds emerge. Because they rely on physical friction, these tactile beauties are suited to patio tables or accent plants along paths or walkways. They thrive in containers, either lightweight plastic or glazed ceramic. Just use a well-draining soil mix like Espoma Organic 4-Quart Potting Soil Mix from Walmart for optimal drainage, mixed with a handful of composted manure. They crave a minimum of 6 hours of bright sun but will happily appreciate a little dappled afternoon shade in hot zones.

3. Floss Flowers

For a sprinkle of whimsical charm in your backyard, the floss flower or ageratum (A. houstonianum) is a delightful way to deter flying pests. Get ready for clusters of unique pompoms in powdery blue, lavender, or soft pink. You might only detect a faint floral scent, but this plant is packed with coumarin, a compound so effective at disrupting an insect’s sensory receptors that it is widely used in synthetic bug sprays. It blooms from late spring to first frost, so its pest-fighting window is impressive. It’s potent in bright, humid summer days, and works well on front porches, balconies, or near low patio walls, where houseflies and mosquitoes like to linger.

To keep these pretty annuals at their peak, they need a moist, well-drained root zone. Grow in plastic, resin, or glazed ceramic that holds onto moisture, filled with a rich potting mix. While floss flowers adore morning sun, their pest-busting power can stall in intense afternoon heat, so factor in a little dappled afternoon shade. Choose compact cultivars like ‘Blue Horizon’ or dwarf ‘Aloha Blue’, and deadhead faded blooms to trigger continuous fresh blooms. Buy fluffy 'Dondo Blue' Floss Flower Seeds from Eden Brothers to fill patio containers with robust, fly-repelling texture.

4. Nasturtiums

For a burst of cheerful, sun-drenched color that tumbles romantically over the edges of planters, the fast-growing nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) is a feast for the senses. One of my absolute favorites for color and edible accents, its peppery magic extends to flying pest controls. That peppery foliage scent is vital, but it’s the combination of that and the sweet aroma emitted from the flowers that creates a confusing sensory barrier for houseflies, whiteflies, and aphids. These vibrant annuals are especially effective in hanging baskets near patios or trailing from window boxes, where they can intercept flies trying to catch a ride inside.

Caring for nasturtiums is almost too easy, as they stop working if you treat them too well. Fertile soil or nitrogen-rich fertilizer prompts a mass of leaves, while hiding the pest-deterring flowers. For maximum potency, use a lightweight potting mix and hold off on the plant food. Try 'Jewel Mix' for its bushy habit or 'Alaska' for electric variegations. There are plenty of Nasturtium Seed Options at Burpee, including tangerine ‘Vesuvius’ and coppery ‘Orchid Flame’, for a lush tumbling curtain of fly-repelling color. Pair with upright chives and basil for a multi-tiered defense.

5. Chrysanthemums

Often affectionately known as mums, these densely packed mounds of tight petals explode into generous palettes of color – but don’t let their decorative appearance fool you. Chrysanthemums are capable of kicking some serious fly butt. Mums are loaded with pyrethrum, a powerful insect neurotoxin that insects hate. Their musky, herbal fragrance may smell like a crisp morning to us, but it causes flying pests to beat a hasty retreat. While traditional mums hit peak potency from late summer through fall, you can plant summer-blooming mum varieties in spring. Place them in porch pots or on your entryway steps to stop flies from slipping inside the house.

Mums require a bright, sunny location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight, and a sturdy container that offers plenty of room for their expansive root systems and support for their top-heavy blooms. Use a fertile, moisture-retentive potting soil with plenty of rich organic compost, as mums are heavy feeders. Look for early-season cultivars like the 'Cheryl' or 'Prophet' series, or ‘Mammoth Daisy Coral’ Mums from Burpee. Pinch back growing tips until July to encourage more fly-fighting blooms.

6. Catmint (Nepeta)

Last but not least is nepeta or catmint, bringing a soft cottage-garden calm to patio pots, while deploying sneaky bug-blasting abilities. This airy perennial produces a cloud of fuzzy green-gray foliage, topped with loose spikes of lavender-blue flowers. Yet despite its gentle looks, it is packed with nepetalactone, which is believed to be up to 10 times more effective at repelling mosquitoes and common houseflies than DEET (used in commercial insect repellents). Given its lovely billowing habit, its minty pine freshness is perfect for large pots on the outer edges of decks, patios, or low retaining walls, for a beautiful protective perimeter.

When growing catmint in containers, the key to keeping its defenses potent is giving it plenty of bright, unfiltered sunlight and avoiding water-retaining soils. Catmint prefers a lean potting mix in a pot that allows roots to breathe. Shear back after its first major flush to trigger a fresh wave of blooms to guard your yard through to fall. Container-friendly cultivars include ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’, which start blooming weeks earlier than other varieties. Buy Proven Winners’ ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ from Fast Growing Trees for a dense long blooming cloud of bug-repelling beauty.

Shop Flowers to Keep Flies at Bay

Curating a pest-free patio doesn’t mean you have to compromise on visual dynamics. These high-potency floral varieties aren’t just effective for discouraging flying bugs, they also work beautifully in pots and look gorgeous from every angle. Treat your patio to these exceptional bloomers and get ready to make more of your joyful fly-free zone.

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Do you ever find yourself daydreaming of a bug-free garden? This sort of thing happens to me when I find half of my favorite rose eaten by worms, or aphids sucking the life juices out of gorgeous hosta leaves. But of course, every bug has a purpose in Mother Nature’s universe.

Let’s face it: a natural, healthy ecosystem has bugs, a wide variety of bugs, including aphids. Yes, a whole lot of aphids can overwhelm and destroy a fragile plant, but they also serve an important role in the landscape. (I try to remember this when I find aphids crowding the underside of a leaf.)

Those aphids are necessary to feed other insects, beneficial insects, that will show up in your yard to eat those aphids.

Good Bugs vs. Bad Bugs

We humans tend to divide the world into good and bad. The things that make our immediate lives easier are the good things. Those things that are immediately annoying or pesky, are bad. But the earth’s greater wisdom is that there is a purpose for everything, including bugs.

While pests in the garden – from mosquitoes to snakes – can alarm us, each one is a part of the natural ecosystem. Bats eat mosquitoes (up to 100 a night) and so do birds, dragonflies, and certain fish. Hawks, eagles, bigger snakes and hedgehogs eat snakes.

Aphids Are Important, Too!

What about aphids? They suck the juices out of your new tender plant growth and new stems, including tomatoes, peppers, citrus fruits and roses. Aphids produce a waste product called honeydew, which attracts ants. Honeydew also promotes fungus growth, and transmits plant viruses. All this is bad news for the garden.

You can always use an organic insecticidal soap, available from Amazon. But lots of very beneficial insects eat aphids. These include ladybugs, hoverflies, and lacewings. The fact that you have aphids in your garden means that those beneficial insects will come into your backyard and enhance the overall health of your garden.

Benefits of Pests in the Garden

You want to have a natural ecosystem in your landscape, including a wide variety of different bugs, some of whom will qualify as pests. That’s because nature contains its own checks and balances. Pests attract their natural predators, and those predators will not only help contain the population of those pests, but others as well. For example, ladybugs will eat up some of your aphids, but will also kill and consume mealybugs and mites.

When biologists talk about biodiversity, this is what they have in mind. Biodiversity in a garden refers to the variety of life forms that live there. These can include plants, insects, animals, and microorganisms too that all exist together in a garden ecosystem. By allowing “bad” bugs, you are allowing biodiversity. That biodiversity makes your garden healthier by making it resilient and supporting important ecosystem services like pollination and pest control.

Plants Are Tougher Than You Think

Yes, you say, natural ecosystems and biodiversity is great, but what about the damage those pests are doing to my plants? It’s not a good reason to bring out the pesticide spray. Almost all plants are more tolerant of pests than you think. Most can recover from losing leaves without significantly reducing their productivity. There are a few tomato varieties that can lose up to one third of their leaves without affecting their fruit yield.

I know this to be true. Once I had a ficus tree in the garden that started losing its leaves one summer as a result of pests and sunshine. The majority of the foliage yellowed and fell. But after the first cool weather of autumn, new little leaf buds showed up on the branches. And, over time, the tree filled with leaves.

Long-Term Advantages

Increasing the variety of insects in the garden immediately increases biodiversity. It also encourages predator insects to come into your landscape, providing additional food for birds and small mammals.

But what are the longer term advantages of learning to tolerate insect pests in the garden? One of them is a dramatic reduction in chemical use. The more people in a neighborhood who decide to allow a greater range of insects in their landscape, the less toxins are used in that neighborhood. Decreasing pesticide use benefits both the plants and the people and animals living in the area.

Ah, spring. As the days get warmer and longer, many of us are spending more time outdoors. Backyard barbecues with friends and family are a wonderful way to welcome the season.

You’re trying to sit back, relax and enjoy your evening, when all of a sudden you hear this agitating, buzzing noise. Flies. They’re almost as bad as mosquitoes for ruining an outdoor gathering.

In addition to being annoying, flies can spread diseases. Luckily, there are some fly repelling herbs and plants you can grow around your garden to help control flies. Let’s dig in and explore how to keep flies from crashing your party!

1. Petunias

Petunias are perfect for container plantings and hanging baskets and they will help to repel flies, too. Who knew that such a pretty, billowy annual flower could be a bully to pests! Their scent and hairy, sticky stems and leaves help send flies, mosquitoes, and other garden pests packing.

Plant petunias in pots or baskets with well-draining soil. They will flower all the way through to the first frost especially if you deadhead petunias regularly. Find a 3-pack of brightly colored petunias at Lowe’s.

2. Basil

Growing basil for use in your home cooked cuisine is low effort and high reward. And, surprisingly, basil also repels flies! Plant basil in window boxes and its strong fragrance will keep flies from entering your open windows. You can also take a leaf and rub it on your skin to keep flies and mosquitoes from coming after you.

You can also blend fresh leaves with some vodka, strain out any large bits of leaf, and place the mix in a spray bottle to mist your patio and yourself. Basil is perfect for growing in containers and you can find sweet Italian basil seeds from Amazon.

3. Lavender

Lavender has a wonderful scent that is attractive to humans and bees, but flies will steer clear. Pot up some lavender in a container garden or use some to make an herbal salve to keep pests off of you.

Deadheading lavender after the first flowering will promote more blooms so you can extend the flowering period and the fly repelling abilities. English lavender seeds from Sow Right Seeds can be found on Amazon.

4. Rue

Probably the strongest fly repelling plant you can use is rue. Unlike lavender and basil, you should not rub it on your skin or ingest it because it can cause skin irritation and is toxic if eaten. Plant rue in containers around your patio and its strong aroma will banish flies from your summer gatherings.

You can even dry some rue cuttings and hang them around your porch to keep flies away. Placing dried rue in a cloth sachet allows you to use it indoors wherever you’d like to repel insects, too. Rue’s delicate yellow flowers will look lovely in a cottage garden setting and it also keeps Japanese beetles away. You can find rue seeds from the Seeds Needs Store on Amazon.

More Ways to Repel Flies

Wasps are territorial enough that the sight of an existing nest nearby can send a scouting queen elsewhere. A stuffed paper bag hung under the eaves costs nothing and can redirect the problem before it starts.

Most social wasp species—yellowjackets, paper wasps, and several hornet species—won’t establish a new colony within about 20 feet (6m) of an existing one. The competition for foraging territory and the risk of conflict make it not worth the effort. That territorial instinct is exactly what a fake nest exploits, and a convincing decoy hung early enough in the season can steer scout wasps toward someone else’s yard before they’ve had a chance to settle in.

This isn’t a substitute for knowing how to get rid of wasps once a nest is already built—it’s a preventative step, and the window for it is narrow. Timing matters more than the decoy itself, and placement matters nearly as much. Get both right and a brown paper bag can do a surprising amount of work.

The Paper Bag Method

A standard brown paper lunch bag is the most common starting point when wasp-proofing your patio or porch. Stuff it with crumpled newspaper or plastic bags until it holds a rough oval shape—something close to the elongated teardrop profile of a hornet nest. Tie off the top with twine, leaving enough length to hang it, then crinkle and scrunch the outer surface so it loses the flat, new-bag look. The goal is a gray-ish, papery, irregular surface that reads as “nest” from a distance rather than “bag.” (You can also purchase a ready-made decoy wasp nest from Amazon).

It doesn’t need to fool anyone up close. Scout wasps are doing a quick visual survey of a site—they’re not conducting a thorough inspection. The shape and general texture are what trigger the territorial response, not fine detail. A bag that’s been roughed up a bit and hung in a visible spot under shelter tends to be convincing enough. Some people paint theirs grey or add pencil marks to suggest the papery cell pattern, which probably helps, though it’s not clear it makes a meaningful difference. Get brown paper lunch bags from Amazon or your local grocery store.

Why Timing Is Critical

The fake nest strategy works on scouting wasps looking to set up a new nest of their own. Specifically they work on the queens that emerge in spring and spend a few weeks surveying potential nesting sites before committing. That window runs roughly from early April through May depending on the climate, and it’s the only time this approach has real leverage. A queen that sees what looks like an occupied territory nearby will typically move on and look elsewhere rather than risk a conflict she doesn’t need.

Once a colony is established, the decoy loses most of its value. Workers from an active nest will eventually investigate the fake one, figure out it’s not real, and stop reacting to it entirely. By that point the territorial deterrent has already failed—the nest is built and the decoy is just decoration. The bag needs to go up before wasps have started building, which in most regions means sometime in March or early April at the latest. Get it up early or don’t bother.

Where to Hang Paper Bag

The fake nest needs to stay dry and stay visible to keep yellowjackets and wasps from nesting in your yard. A spot under a deck overhang, porch eave, patio umbrella rib, or pergola beam works well—somewhere sheltered from direct rain but out in the open where a passing scout would actually see it. Tucking it behind a pot or under dense foliage defeats the purpose. If the location where wasps typically become a problem has a specific overhang or corner they tend to favor, that’s the right spot for the decoy.

Hang one decoy per potential nesting zone rather than clustering several together—multiple “nests” in the same small area doesn’t read as more convincing, and it may actually undermine the effect by looking unnatural. One bag per patio corner, one under the deck, one near the front entry if wasps have been an issue there. Space them out so each one covers a distinct area. The 20-foot (6m) deterrence radius is a rough guide, not a hard boundary, but it’s a useful starting point for spacing.

When a Paper Bag Isn’t Enough

The paper bag version works, but it has a practical lifespan. Rain eventually softens it, wind can tear it, and after a season or two the whole thing needs replacing. For anyone who’d rather not re-stuff a bag every spring, crocheted or fabric decoy nests hold their shape considerably better and can be reused for several seasons without much upkeep. Commercial versions like the Wasp Out decoy nest are designed specifically for this purpose and are built to weather outdoor conditions. A Wasp Out fake wasp nest from Amazon is worth considering for a permanent spot that’s been a recurring problem year after year.

The underlying principle is the same regardless of which version gets used. What varies is durability and how much effort the setup takes each season. A paper bag costs nothing and takes five minutes; a fabric or commercial decoy costs a few dollars and lasts considerably longer. Either way, the decoy only earns its place if it goes up before the scouts show up—that part doesn’t change.

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Does your bird feeder feel like it’s bringing all the rats to the yard? And they’re like, “Oh, free buffet?” Well, if that sounds familiar, you’re not alone.

Yes, if you’ve spotted more rats in your yard lately, you’re not imagining it. Warmer weather means increased activity, and once a reliable food source appears, they’ll keep on coming back. And unfortunately, bird feeders can be part of the problem.

Spilled seed, easy access, and nearby cover make them an ideal feeding station – not just for birds, but for rodents too. The good news? You don’t have to give up feeding your backyard birds to solve it.

Move Your Bird Feeder, Prevent Rats

According to the UK's gardening expert Alan Titchmarsh, where you position your feeder is everything.

“Most gardeners, myself included, love encouraging garden birds, so bird feeders are everywhere in this garden. But they can also be a magnet for rats,” he explains in a new video.

“The key to success with them is to position [them] in the open, in the middle of your lawn. Rats hate running through exposed areas. If you put your bird feeder alongside a hedge or wall, that’s great for rats, as they have shelter – they rush out, grab what they want, and rush back.”

It’s a simple shift, but it works with rodent behaviour rather than against it.

Rats are cautious by nature. They rely on edges – fences, hedges, walls – to move around unseen. When a feeder is placed close to these areas, it effectively creates a safe feeding route.

Move it into the centre of your yard, however, and that sense of safety disappears entirely. Suddenly, they’re exposed from all angles, making them far less likely to risk the dash for dropped seed lest they become a tasty snack for a nearby cat.

Birds, on the other hand, are completely unfazed by open space, so they’ll keep visiting as normal. Intrigued? All you have to do is look for sturdy designs that are easy to move – you may find yourself adjusting placement seasonally as your garden changes.

Rat-Proof Bird Feeders:

There’s a second benefit to this approach: it actually makes your feeder safer and more enjoyable for birds.

With a clear line of sight, you’ll get a much better view of visitors as they come and go. And because the feeder is away from cover, it reduces the risk of ambush from pesky neighborhood cats or other predators.

In other words, it’s a small change that improves the experience for everyone... except the rats. Which is good enough for us, quite frankly.

We guess what we're saying is this: rats might be bolder this time of year, but they’re also predictable. By simply moving your bird feeder out into the open, you remove the cover they rely on – and that’s often enough to send them elsewhere.

Your birds won’t mind one bit. Promise.

Vinegar as a weed killer has exploded in popularity in recent years. The appeal is understandable: it’s inexpensive, it’s likely on hand, and it bypasses the complex debate surrounding synthetic herbicides. But the results when you use vinegar for weed killer can be mixed at best. Whether it works depends on which vinegar, which weed, how it’s applied, and what the plan is for that patch of soil afterward.

However, reaching for that bottle without understanding how it works can lead to a summer of regret. The problem is that most people reach for the wrong kind or use it in the wrong way, then wonder why the dandelions came back a week later. Using vinegar for weed control indiscriminately can leave soil compromised just when summer annuals need it most. And while vinegar is natural, it isn’t always gentle.

Many gardeners treat vinegar for weeds as a quick fix, only to be baffled when the chickweed reappears or, worse, when their hydrangeas begin to wilt. This article isn't about scaring you away from organic solutions, but guiding you towards a more effective weeding strategy. This starts with knowing what vinegar is doing when it hits the weeds and the soil – and what it isn't doing. Using vinegar for weed killer does come with risks, and it’s vital to know what they are so you don’t risk damaging your yard. Before you reach for that bottle of vinegar, here’s what you need to know.

Kitchen vs. Horticultural Vinegar

The vinegar in the kitchen cabinet is typically 5% acetic acid. That’s enough to brown and wilt foliage on contact. It works, to a point. But what it tends to do is scorch the top growth without reaching the root system, so the weed looks dead for a few days and then pushes back up from whatever is still viable underground. On shallow-rooted annual weeds caught early, a 5% solution can be enough. On anything with a real root structure, the effects of this weed killer are mostly cosmetic.

Horticultural vinegar runs at 20-30% acetic acid, which is 4-6 times stronger, and it behaves differently. It is often used as a cleaner and is effective on bird baths and anywhere with unsightly mineral buildup. Contact with this concentration causes serious tissue damage, and the burndown is significant on young weeds. It’s also more hazardous to handle. Skin and eye contact can cause chemical burns, so it warrants the same care as any concentrated chemical. Horticultural vinegar concentrate such as Harris 30% Vinegar Concentrated Extra Strength from Amazon comes with appropriate handling guidance, and requires protective gloves.

If you are in a USDA zone with high humidity and fast-growing spring weeds (like zones 7-9), the temptation to use the strong stuff is high. If you use horticultural vinegar, you must treat it with the same respect as any high-strength chemical, utilizing gloves and eye protection. It is a tool for specific, high-intensity moments, not a casual spray-and-go solution for your veggie patch. Buy a dedicated sprayer with a focus nozzle, such as the Chapin 1-Gallon Garden Sprayer from Lowe's, to avoid accidental drift onto your flowers when using high-strength vinegar for weeds.

1. The Contact Killer Trap

Vinegar is a contact herbicide, which means it damages the tissue it touches and nothing else. It doesn’t move through the plant the way systemic herbicides do, so it doesn’t usually reach the roots. For annual weeds like crabgrass, hairy bittercress, or young spurge, that’s fine: kill the top growth and the plant is done, especially if it’s caught before it sets seed. Annual weeds don’t have the root reserves to recover from complete defoliation. But vinegar only kills what it touches. It’s a localized chemical burn. So while it can slay annual weeds, it is less effective for perennials.

Fleshy, deep-rooted perennials like dandelions, Canada thistle and bindweed store significant energy in their root systems and can regrow from root fragments alone. Vinegar will knock the foliage back and the plant looks gone, but the root pushes up new growth within a week or two. Repeated applications can wear a perennial weed down over time, but it’s a slow process and not particularly reliable. For those weeds, a contact killer is basically pruning them, not eliminating them. You can scorch the leaves all you want, but the root remains safe and sound, ready to send up a revenge sprout the moment you turn your back.

If you rely solely on vinegar for weed killing these deep-rooted pests, you’ll find yourself in a cycle of constant re-application. Not only is this exhausting, it can become a hazard for soil health. A targeted systemic is more efficient for deep-rooted perennial weeds, and ultimately less damaging. Buy a systemic like Sceptracide 64-oz Concentrate Weed & Grass Killer from Lowe’s for more tenacious perennial weeds.

2. Invisible Dangers in the Soil

Acetic acid (like vinegar) lowers soil pH. A single application in a spot where weeds are growing isn’t likely to cause lasting damage. But repeated applications in the same area can push pH down far enough to disrupt the microbial activity that keeps soil healthy. The beneficial bacteria and fungi that break down organic matter and support plant roots are sensitive to soil pH shifts. A soil that’s been repeatedly dosed with acid isn’t a great environment for growing anything intentional afterward.

These beneficial microbes are responsible for breaking down organic matter and making nutrients available to your plants. When the pH drops too low, these microbes die off, and your soil becomes lazy. Using vinegar to clear a patio crack or a gravel path is low-stakes, because nothing’s supposed to grow there. But using it repeatedly in a flower bed or vegetable garden (or near desirable plants) is far riskier.

Vegetables might look stunted, or your flowers might lose their luster, simply because the soil chemistry has been thrown out of balance. Acid-loving plants like blueberries or azaleas can handle the shift, but your tomatoes and lavender will likely suffer. It’s wise to test the soil using a dedicated kit, like the Rapitest Soil Test Kit from Amazon, before planting anything in a spot that’s had repeated vinegar applications, to check if your vinegar use has pushed your soil into the danger zone.

3. The Salt and Dish Soap Problem

A lot of DIY vinegar weed killer recipes call for adding salt and dish soap to the mix. The soap acts as a surfactant, which means it helps the vinegar solution stick to waxy leaf surfaces instead of beading off, which does improve contact. However, many modern dish soaps are detergents that can harm the waxy cuticle of your desired plants if there is any over-spray.

The salt is the bigger issue, though. Sodium chloride doesn’t break down or flush out of soil the way most things do. It accumulates, and at sufficient concentration it can essentially sterilize the ground. This means that nothing grows, including the plants you want in that spot. This effect can persist for years, depending on how much was applied and how well the area drains. In a contained spot like a patio joint or a pathway edge, this might be acceptable. In or near a garden bed, it can be a devastating problem that is hard to reverse and correct.

If you must use a surfactant, skip the salt and use a dedicated horticultural soap or a very small amount of biodegradable, castile-based soap. You can buy Southern Ag Spreader Sticker from Amazon to ensure your (safe) treatments actually stay on the leaf. A few drops of plain dish soap per quart of horticultural vinegar can also do the job without the soil damage. Buy Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Liquid Soap Unscented from Target for a safer biodegradable alternative to harsh dish detergents for your DIY mixes, but leave the salt in the kitchen.

Better Weeding Controls to Try

The verdict on vinegar is clear: it’s not a total solution, nor should it be used repeatedly in areas where you want things to grow. It’s fine for cleaning moss off a brick patio or scorching a few annual weeds in a driveway, but it shouldn't be your primary weapon in beds.

For effective weeding of existing problem plants, use a stirrup hoe or scuffle hoe. Unlike a traditional hoe that chops at the ground, a stirrup hoe slides just beneath the soil surface, severing weed roots while leaving the soil structure intact. This avoids waking up dormant seeds in the deeper soil layers. Buy the Walansee Action Stirrup Hoe from Walmart for effective weeding in large areas. Do your weeding shortly after it rains, and you’ll find that your need for vinegar drops significantly – and your garden health improves exponentially.

Smothering the soil is a more effective and long-lasting way to address the problems associated with weeds. By applying a 3-inch (8cm) layer of organic mulch (like cedar bark or pine needles) right now, you prevent light from reaching weed seeds, stopping the problem before it even begins. You can buy Woodsmith Natural Cedar Chip Mulch from Amazon to suppress weeds, and also keep the soil nourished.

Shop Weed Control Essentials

Vinegar might seem like a fast fix, but it can be anything but – so if you want more reliable results, it’s worth adding a few old faithfuls into the mix. These curated weeding tools and organic brands help you to tackle unwanted garden arrivals safely and effectively. They represent the best in ergonomics, durability, and soil-safety, so you can wipe out those intruders without compromising your yard's future.

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If you have a patio or path made of paving stones, you know how infuriating the endless battle against weeds is. Every little crack and crevice can harbor a seemingly unlimited amount of both broadleaf and grassy weeds.

Trying to get rid of weeds between pavers is a thankless job that often leaves you with sore fingers and not much actual progress. Using a crevice weeding tool, which can be found on Amazon, can help get rid of weeds, but they often come back with a vengeance.

Let’s dig in and address the best way to keep weeds from growing between pavers so you can keep your hardscaping weed-free for years to come.

Why Do Weeds Grow Between Pavers?

The first thing we need to discuss is why weeds are growing between your pavers. You worked hard to install a beautiful path, patio, or walkway between raised beds but then a few seasons later there are weeds covering every nook and cranny. This is caused by accumulation of dirt and weed seeds.

Over time, the cracks between your pavers collect dirt, dust, grass clippings and other organic matter. The weed seeds blow in from a neighbor’s yard or are deposited from bird droppings.

Weeds dig in deep and fast. Before you know it, they’re too established to pull by hand. No matter how hard you try, the root system is still lurking deep in between the pavers. Luckily, we can learn to battle weeds more effectively.

How to Prevent Weeds Between Pavers

First, unfortunately, we need to remove existing weeds. Use a crevice weeding tool, a weed torch (I love this Flame King torch from Lowe’s which is super fun to use!), or chemical herbicide to kill weeds. Once they are dead, scrape out the joints between pavers or stones with that crevice tool or even an old screwdriver you don’t mind getting a little damaged. Sweep the area clean to prepare for the ultimate weed solution: polymeric sand.

Polymeric sand, which can be purchased from the Home Depot or other hardware stores, is a joint compound that is easily worked into crevices between pavers and will bind to seal out weeds for up to 5 years. You brush it into the cleaned joints between stones with a push broom. When you wet the sand with your garden hose, it binds to itself and creates a clean look and an inhospitable environment for weeds to grow. It comes in many colors to compliment the look of your pavers or stones.

It doesn’t last forever, but you can say goodbye to intensive weeding between pavers for at least a few years. I’ll take it!

Tips for Using Polymeric Sand

• Always follow the directions on whichever brand of polymeric sand you purchase. Some require slightly different methods of compacting or wetting than others.
• Apply only when the path or patio is completely dry. The binders in the sand are activated by water so they won’t fill in the gaps properly and will begin to bind incorrectly if the work surface is damp.
• Use a sturdy push broom to work the sand into the crevices and then gently sweep away any excess before applying water. You can also use the lowest setting on a leaf blower to remove excess sand.
• Lightly sprinkle the polymeric sand with water to activate. Don’t use your hose on full blast or it will displace the sand. Use the shower setting on your hose wand attachment to gently apply water.
• Don’t use a power washer on your pavers or stones for at least a few weeks so the sand has time to bind and cure.
• Use paver restraint edging, available from Lowe’s, to keep the polymeric sand from running out the sides of your walkway and not setting properly.

With a little hard work this weekend, you can ensure you won’t have to weed your pavers or patio for years to come!

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Weeding is one of those tasks that feels productive, regardless of when it happens. Pull enough of them and the bed looks better – until next week, when the same plants are back or new weeds have taken their place. And the thing is, timing can be just as important as the type or extent of weeding you carry out in your yard. Choosing the right times matters both in terms of how completely they come out, and in determining how many (if any) come back, and how soon.

It’s often the case that gardeners approach weeding as a reactive chore – you see a green invader, and you pull it. But if you want to stop the exhausting cycle of "weed, repeat, despair," you need to stop thinking about what you are pulling and start thinking about when. Strategic weed control can save you labor later (and also simplify the process now). When it comes to smart weeding tips, three windows stand out: one tied to soil moisture, one to reproductive cycles, and one to light. Hit all three consistently, and the pressure will drop noticeably in one season.

The stakes are high. A single dandelion missed this week can result in thousands of seeds blowing across your lawn by June, haunting flower beds for years. Smart weeding isn't just about tidying up, it’s about proactive protection – and May is the ultimate make-or-break month for getting ahead of the game. So if you want a sneaky win over your garden's nemesis, master these key weeding windows. They will help to keep your yard pristine with half the effort.

Are You Weeding at the Wrong Time?

The hard truth is that weeding under a blazing afternoon sun in bone-dry soil is often worse than not weeding at all. You snap the roots, stress your back, and unwittingly wake up thousands more future weeds in the form of dormant seeds. To have a healthy, vibrant yard this summer, you need to transition from being a casual weeder to becoming thoughtful about how you time your weeding sessions. These three windows represent the perfect times where your efforts are magnified tenfold.

Whether you are in the humid southeast (USDA zone 8) or the cooler reaches of the Pacific northwest (zone 6), these rules are highly effective, irrespective of USDA hardiness zones. Missing these windows allows weeds to steal precious nutrients and moisture from your emerging summer annuals. However, the right knowledge and timing leads to better weeding of plants, enabling you to shut down the weed factory before it switches gear for the season.

1. The Post-Rain Extraction

Pulling weeds from dry, compacted soil is mostly an exercise in frustration. The top growth comes away and the root stays in the ground. This is especially true with taprooted weeds like dandelions, common thistle and dock, where the root can run 6-10 inches (15-25cm) deep and regenerate from whatever is left behind. Dry or clay soil grips roots hard enough that clean extraction is difficult without a dedicated tool and real effort. Snap that taproot even an inch down, and the weed’s back within a few weeks. Perennial weeds are the worst offenders: they bank energy deep in the root and regrow from whatever gets left behind.

Saturated soil (not muddy, but thoroughly wet after a good rain soaking) changes this. The water expands the pore spaces in the soil, reducing the grip on the root fibers. The soil loosens, the friction drops, and even the most stubborn taproots can slide out whole. The window is usually best 12-24 hours after a heavy soaking rain, once the standing water has drained, but the soil remains dark and damp, and before the surface dries out. You can add a liquid soil loosener and conditioner, such as Soft Soil Liquid Soil Aerator from Amazon to mimic the post-rain environment. If you miss the rain, you can deep-water a specific bed the evening before you plan to work. Let it soak overnight and work the bed first thing in the morning.

A long-handled weeding fork, like the Ames Forged Weeder with Hardwood Handle from Amazon, speeds things up considerably on deeper-rooted plants. It keeps the extraction clean without disturbing much of the surrounding soil. Never weed when the soil is mucky or leaves a slick on your boots, though, as this compresses the soil and destroys its structure. The post-rain extraction is particularly vital for biennials like bull thistle and perennial weeds like pokeberry, which rely on deep energy stores to survive the summer heat.

2. The Pre-Seed Deadline

A weed that’s flowering is about to become a hundred weeds, or even a thousand. Chickweed alone can push out around 800 seeds per plant. A single dandelion clock carries up to around 200, each one viable in soil for several years, and thistle can top 10,000 in a good season. The math turns ugly fast, which is why catching weeds at the flower stage is the most important deadline in your weeding calendar. Miss it by a few days, and the problem multiplies in ways that take seasons to undo.

The window is tight: roughly 48 hours once flower heads appear before seeds begin to set and become viable. Pull them now (root and all if possible, but even removing the flower heads before they close matters) and that reproductive cycle stops cold. If you can’t get the whole root out because the soil is too hard, you must at least behead the weed. However, be warned: many weeds, like purslane, can continue to ripen their seeds after you’ve pulled them if left on the ground.

So always bag the pulled weed material rather than composting it, and send it to the municipal green waste or the trash. Most backyard compost piles don’t run hot enough to kill viable seeds, around 140°F (60°C). Tossing flowering weeds in the compost just moves the problem around. Focus your energy this month on high-fliers such as pigweed and shepherd’s purse, to save yourself dozens of hours of work in the seasons to come. Finally, applying a weed preventer, like Preen Garden Weed Preventer from Amazon, helps prevent any seeds that did drop from germinating, acting as a secondary line of defense.

3. The Dusk Disturbance

It’s not great to think that clean garden beds are full of sleeping thousand seeds just waiting for a wake-up call. Turning soil exposes weed seeds, so dormant seeds near the surface get shifted toward the light and warmth they need to kick off. What catches most gardeners off guard is that germination in a lot of weed species needs only a flash of light. The seed doesn’t need sustained sun: just that brief signal. This phenomenon, called photo-dormancy, is well documented in common garden weeds including lamb’s quarters, purslane, and hairy bittercress, all of which germinate at far higher rates when soil disturbance happens in daylight. Even a millisecond of sunlight during your midday weeding session is enough to trigger germination.

Weeding at dusk, after dark or on heavily overcast days removes that trigger entirely. The seeds get moved around but never get that light signal, so far fewer of them germinate. Research has shown that nighttime soil disturbance can reduce weed emergence by over 75%. This is a pretty significant margin for something that costs nothing extra. The cumulative effect builds across the season, especially in beds that get worked regularly. If you work under the midday sun, you are essentially planting a new crop of weeds every time you pull an old one.

Aim for the golden hour, when the sun is below the horizon but visibility is still decent. A quality headlamp is particularly effective for large vegetable patches or newly mulched borders where you want to keep the seed bank buried deep in the dark. The LHKNL Ultra Light Rechargeable Waterproof Headlamp from Amazon is a great way to work effectively when light might not be all that great. Applying a 3-inch (8cm) layer of mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Walmart, immediately after your session ensures those seeds stay in total darkness.

May Weeding Essentials

While the three windows above are your primary tactics, May requires a holistic approach. This is the month to focus on smothering and mulching. As the soil warms up, any bare earth is an invitation for disaster. Beyond pulling, you should be looking at soil health. Healthy, dense soil filled with beneficial fungi and nutrients supports the plants you actually want, making it harder for opportunistic weeds to take hold.

Consider a feed and weed approach. Using organic corn gluten meal can act as a natural pre-emergent while providing a mild nitrogen boost to your lawn. You can buy Espoma Organic Weed Preventer (Corn Gluten Meal) from Amazon to stop weed seeds from rooting in your lawn while giving your grass a healthy May meal. Just remember, this is most effective when tailored to your local climate. If you’re in a drought-prone area, prioritize mulching over frequent soil disturbance to keep moisture locked in.

Shop Weed Control Essentials

Weeding doesn’t have to be a grind, nor should it hurt you. Having a curated go-bag of weeding tools makes it easier to jump into those 48-hour windows or head out for a quick dusk session. These curated essentials represent the best in ergonomics, durability, and effectiveness, to help you turn a daunting spring task into a garden win.

Frequently Asked Questions

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If your ornamental and edible plant leaves are starting to turn white and splotchy, you may be facing a case of powdery mildew. There are several different types of fungi that cause this common garden disease. And it seems like there are just as many DIY solutions floating around online.

One of the most popular powdery mildew treatments I’ve seen on the online gardening forums is spraying your plants with milk. I’ve tried this one several times over the years, whenever my squash plants have been plagued by powdery mildew. But unfortunately, it’s never done much to dispel this disease.

However, there is one solution that I’ve discovered since then that starts working after just one application and it also prevents pests, too. If you’re an avid gardener, you may already have this easy-to-find spray on hand. But if not, it’s a great product to have in your gardening arsenal to solve a variety of plant problems both indoors and out. Find out my secret weapon against powdery mildew and pests.

My Secret Weapon Against Powdery Mildew

Benefits of Neem Oil

Neem oil has so many uses in the garden, including fighting powdery mildew. It is made from the seeds of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica) and it is incredibly versatile. Plus, it’s organic and safe to use on edible plants, ornamentals, and even houseplants. You can find neem oil online from Amazon or at almost any garden center.

This plant-based solution can prevent a whole host of common garden diseases, including sooty mold, black spot, and rust. It can also get rid of a wide array of unwanted garden pests, like scale, squash bugs, beetle larvae, caterpillars, lacebugs, leaf hoppers, leafminers, mealybugs, thrips, and whiteflies.

One of the best uses for neem oil, though, is to prevent and stop powdery mildew in the garden. Neem oil can’t completely get rid of powdery mildew that’s already on plants, but it will stop its spread and keep it from ruining your vegetable harvest and the blooms in your ornamental garden.

How to Use Neem Oil for Powdery Mildew

Despite being an organic solution to powdery mildew as well as other problems in the garden, neem oil does have some safety concerns for both plants and beneficial insects. It can negatively impact important pollinators, like bees and butterflies, so it’s important to be careful when using it in your garden.

Apply neem oil in the evening after sunset, when most pollinators are done working for the day to prevent harming these beneficial insects. Avoid spraying neem oil on plants that are in bloom and pollinators will likely visit. Also, be sure to keep neem oil away from water sources that supply pollinators. For example, if you have a pollinator watering station in your garden, don’t spray neem oil near it.

Overusing neem oil can also harm plants, especially tender seedlings and young plants. For the best results and to prevent damage to your plants, apply neem oil as soon as you see powdery mildew appear. Then wait 7 to 10 days before reapplying. Only reapply if the problem continues to worsen.

Neem oil often stops powdery mildew after just one application. However, it doesn’t get rid of powdery mildew that’s already present on leaves. So watch to see if the disease spreads before applying again.

Other Ways to Prevent Powdery Mildew

Ultimately, powdery mildew won’t kill your plants. However, severe cases can lessen harvests and weaken plants. Prevention is always the best defense in your garden. To stop powdery mildew before it even begins, make sure you space your plants far enough apart to provide good airflow.

Also, try to avoid overhead irrigation. Wet leaves, especially on crowded plants, combined with warm summer temperatures are the ideal conditions for breeding powdery mildew. A simple drip irrigation system that you can set up quickly, like this drip irrigation kit from Home Depot that I use in my own garden, keeps foliage dry and prevents fungal diseases.

Don’t let the powdery mildew take over your garden. Prevent problems before they start by following proper spacing and watering at the roots. But if you are already having issues with fungus in your garden, give neem oil a try and leave the milk for your morning cereal.

Some pests are hard to hate - like rabbits nibbling the lettuce leaves. But slugs? Slippery, slimy slugs? There is nothing cute or cuddly about them, plus they can decimate your favorite foliage plants as well as seedlings and garden crops.

Yes, there are chemicals you can buy to kill garden slugs and snails, but we’re all trying to keep toxics out of the garden. So let’s get creative. We’ve pulled together the best weird and wonderful hacks we know for “dealing with” slugs in the backyard.

Slugging It Out

Before we get around to ways to eliminate slugs from your garden, it’s a good idea to remember all the harm they can cause. They are not evil creatures, intent on mischief, just hungry terrestrial mollusks. And their preferred food happens to be the tender leaves and foliage of your garden plants. One slug alone can eat big, ragged holes in leaves, but a group of slugs can do even more significant damage.

Slug favorites include soft-leafed plants like hostas, strawberries, lettuce, and cabbage. Seedlings are also favorites. They are tender and can be entirely consumed by a slug. Vegetables and fruit in the garden are also vulnerable. If you aren’t sure your plant damage is due to slugs, look for slime on your plants and also in the soil nearby. The slime trails are more visible in the early morning.

6 Weird (But Effective) Slug Hacks

I've rounded up six of the most effective slug control methods that you may not have heard of. Try them out and see how well they work!

1. Wood Plank Slug Trap

Many of these hacks are not for the squeamish, and this one is included. That’s because they are ways to lure the slugs to a handy pick-up spot. That way, in the early morning you can pluck them up and toss them in the compost or somewhere far from the garden.

To create a slug trap board, water the ground well, then lay wood planks (or large pieces of cardboard) on the soil around your garden plants. A fine grouping of slugs should be gathered beneath the board or cardboard. Pick them up, take them away, then put the trap back in place to get more the next day.

2. Grapefruit Skins

Slugs like it cool and moist and a grapefruit trap will lure them in. Cut a grapefruit (or cantaloupe or coconut) in two, eat out the fruit, then position the remaining shells in the garden. They seem custom-made for slugs to hang out in.

The slugs are attracted to their shape, smell, and cool, moist interior. They use them as lounge sofas overnight, so come morning, you can collect and toss them.

3. Beer Traps

You may like beer, but even if that's not the case, you know lots of people who do. Will it surprise you that slugs like beer as well? That leads us to the slug-be-gone hack: beer traps. Slugs love beer so much that they will not just get drunk, but drown themselves in the brew.

Here’s how to “load” a beer trap: get a container - at least a few inches deep. For best results, dig a hole and sink the container into the ground. Then fill it with beer and you’ll have less slugs in the morning. Replace the beer every morning until things are under control.

4. Diatomaceous Earth

I think of diatomaceous earth (DE) as “diabolical” earth. It is a natural substance, silica-based, and crumbles into fine powder. This powder is abrasive, like pumice powder, and, as a result of its high porosity, it sucks up any moisture that it encounters. Slugs hate it. They avoid crossing a barrier of DE. That makes it a great, easy slug-barrier.

Build a “wall” of food-quality DE, as wide as your palm when dry weather is expected. This is an effective and non-toxic way of controlling slugs, since it injures and dehydrates their outer skin. You can find food-grade diatomaceous earth from P.F. Harris on Amazon.

5. Copper Barriers

Slugs don’t really like to cross copper surfaces, and this can have a protective effect in the garden. It is said that slugs can feel something like a slight electric shock when they touch copper, so they avoid it.

The way to use this in your garden is to use copper tape or copper rings around your plants. The copper tape needs to be 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide to work best. Don’t bet the bank account on this though. In my experience, slugs may not love copper, but they may cross it if there is food on the other side. Like with many other types of pest control, using multiple methods together will yield the best results. Find 3-inch wide copper tape at Amazon.

6. Chickens, anyone?

An obvious way to rid your garden of slugs is to bring in predators who enjoy eating them. Your friends and family are not likely to qualify here, but if you’ve ever thought of having chickens or ducks in your yard, they will act as pest control.

No can do with the chickens? You might be more open to putting in a pond that will attract amphibians, like toads or frogs. They like to eat slugs too. Other slug predators include garter snakes, turtles and salamanders.

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