Christmas may feel like a distant memory, but if your poinsettia is still showing off its cheerful red blooms (or bracts) in February, then you’re doing something right – and you deserve every drop of joy it brings on dark winter days. While most poinsettias are discarded as soon as they start the sad process of dropping their bracts and leaves, a plant that’s still going strong gives you the best possible starting point for reblooming next Christmas. And what you do next will determine whether it flowers again.

Making a poinsettia rebloom is no easy task – and there’s no guarantee of success – but it’s far easier if you’re starting with a strong plant that thrives in your home environment. It’s much more rewarding – and sustainable – to nurture the same plant over the years, rather than to keep replacing it.

Proper poinsettia care is key. There are some specific conditions that you’ll need to provide in the run-up to next Christmas to be in with a shot, but what you do now, after it finishes flowering, is just as crucial.

Why a February-Blooming Poinsettia is a Good Sign

If your poinsettia didn’t start shedding over the holidays and is still putting on a show, then well done: that means you are looking after it properly, and it likes its current spot. The plant hasn’t been overwatered, its roots are likely healthy, and the plant has good energy reserves. Strong plants are far more likely to survive the year-long cycle needed to trigger fresh bracts next winter.

The Make-or-Break Task to Do Now

Once the colored bracts begin to fade and drop, it’s time to cut your poinsettia right back. The stems should be pruned to around 4–6 inches (10–15cm) in length. It may seem severe, but don’t worry – hard pruning poinsettias is very beneficial and will redirect the plant’s energy into producing strong new shoots in spring. This growth is essential if you want enough vigor for next autumn’s flowering cycle. If you leave the stems too long or skip pruning, then you’ll have a weak, leggy plant that won’t bloom well – if at all.

When pruning poinsettias, you should aim to make clean cuts just above a leaf node. Where possible, you want this to be an outward-facing node to help promote a good growth shape.

What to Do Before You Prune

As flowering comes to an end, start easing off watering and allow the potting mix to slightly dry out between waterings. Avoid feeding the plant. Move it somewhere bright but slightly cooler. This will help to prepare the plant for its post-blooming rest period.

What Happens After You Cut it Back?

Prepare yourself – after pruning, your poinsettia will look stark and bare, little more than a cluster of short stems. Any remaining leaves may fall, leaving a twiggy framework. This is completely normal, so don’t worry – with warmth and light, new green shoots should begin emerging within a few weeks.

What Poinsettias Needs to Rebloom

In March or April, start fertilizing your poinsettia again. Do it every month with a balanced liquid fertilizer, like this Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food from Amazon.

In late spring to summer, repot the plant using a houseplant potting mix, like this Back to The Roots Organic Indoor Potting Mix, and increase to fortnightly feeding as fresh green shoots begin to appear.

This will keep your poinsettia green and healthy, but it won’t flower again until it gets a dark period in the fall. Many people don’t realize this, but poinsettias are short-day plants, meaning they only develop colored bracts when nights are long enough. From around late September, poinsettias need about 12–14 hours of uninterrupted darkness daily, for a period of 8–10 weeks, to trigger reblooming. Artificial light can completely disrupt this natural cycle.

Move your plant to a cooler room that isn’t used in the evening, and before long, your poinsettia will be boasting those cheery red blooms again. Just a little effort now and then will bring big rewards, and a plant that gets bigger and brighter every year.

Poinsettias light up holidays with bright bracts, but most die by January from one hidden mistake. The real reason poinsettias die before next Christmas is cold shock. It damages cells and can trigger irreversible leaf drop. A quick chill on the way home or a drafty spot finishes them fast.

Cold shock hits poinsettias hard because they come from warm Mexican climates. Leaves curl, bracts turn watery, stems collapse – the damage feels sudden but starts with one short chill. The plant looks fine at first, then falls apart days later.

Proper poinsettia care keeps them going longer, but cold protection matters more than anything else. Insulate on the trip home, place away from doors and windows, and the plant sails through winter. The difference is huge – one year they last weeks, the next they survive months.

The Cold-Shock Killer: Why It Happens

Poinsettias are one of the best plants for holiday decorations, but they can drop leaves fast after even minutes below 50F (10C). The trip home from the store seems harmless, but cold air sneaks in and damages cells inside. Bracts turn watery, then brown at edges. The plant feels the stress immediately, but symptoms show later. Even a quick open door on a cold day sends chills through the foliage. The lower leaves turn yellow first, then the whole plant wilts from the top down.

Drafts from doors or leaky windows mimic the same shock – temperature swings of 15F (8C) or more trigger drop. The plant transpires through leaves, losing moisture it can't replace in the cold. The leaves curl tight, then fall. The damage is irreversible once it starts. A single night near a drafty window can finish the plant. The bracts fade to muddy colors, stems go soft at the base.

How Cold Damage Shows Up

Poinsettia cold damage destroys cell walls in the plant. Leaves curl and droop first, bracts turn soft and translucent. Brown edges creep in, then whole sections drop. The plant looks healthy one day, half bare the next. Stems go limp at the base, collapsing under weight. Lower leaves yellow and fall, upper bracts hang limp. The whole plant feels lighter, soil still moist but roots shocked.

Cold shock hits bracts hardest – color fades to muddy green or brown. The plant tries to recover but weakens fast. The damage is sneaky – a quick chill in the car does more harm than weeks of low light. Buds blast and fall off, new growth fails to emerge. The plant survives holidays looking perfect, then collapses in January. Recovery is rare once drop starts. Stems soften at the base and collapse under their own weight.

Protecting on the Trip Home

Wrap the plant in paper sleeves or plastic bags at the store – double layer if it's below 50F (10C). Carry straight to a warm car, cover with a frost protector like this one from Amazon. The plant feels the cold through thin foil pots fast. Drive home quickly, avoid leaving in a cold trunk.

Bring inside immediately for a gentle transition. The plant may appear to recover from short chills, but damage often shows days later. A cardboard box insulates better for longer trips. Sleeve the pot in newspaper too – the layers trap heat. The plant arrives perky instead of stressed. A plant carrier like this from Amazon makes carrying larger plants easier without crushing bracts.

Finding the Right Spot Indoors

Avoid poinsettia care mistakes like placing the plant near a cold, drafty window. Place away from doors, windows, or vents – drafts kill faster than low light. The plant likes a steady 65–75F (18–24C). A corner table or shelf away from glass works. The leaves feel the chill through the windows at night. Avoid heaters or fireplaces – hot dry air browns tips.

The plant likes average humidity, so a pebble tray helps in rooms that are too dry from the furnace. The bracts hold color longer without stress. Rotate weekly for even shape – the plant leans toward light. A thermostat nearby keeps swings minimal. The plant is content in steady conditions, bracts staying vibrant weeks longer.

Watering and Light

Water poinsettias when the top inch of soil dries – room-temperature liquid only, since old water can shock roots. The plant drinks less in low light, so err on the side of caution and let it dry some. A saucer catches runoff. Overwatering turns leaves yellow fast, so keep track of moisture in the soil. A 4-in-one soil probe like this from Amazon helps take out the uncertainty.

Bright indirect light keeps bracts vivid – east or west window away from glass. The plant tolerates medium light but color fades. Rotate weekly for even shape. The leaves are thick and glossy when happy. Wipe dust with damp cloth – the bracts shine brighter. A grow light supplement helps in dim rooms.

Long-Term Care for Next Year

Keep away from cold until spring – the plant rebounds from minor shock. Fertilize lightly in spring with a balanced mix or with a indoor plant food like this from Amazon. Cut back in March to keep the plant from getting leggy.

Caring for poinsettias after Christmas will ensure you have beautiful blooms next year. It's possible to make poinsettias rebloom with 12-14 hours darkness nightly in fall for 8-10 weeks. So mark your calendar to prepare poinsettias for optimal blooming next year!

The effort is worth it – one plant lasts years with protection. The bracts are vibrant longer, color holding through holidays. The plant becomes a tradition instead of annual loss. Reblooming is possible with patience. The stems thicken over time, supporting bigger displays.

Nothing radiates holiday cheer quite like a jolly red poinsettia. These festive houseplants are a ubiquitous sight in the build-up to Christmas, filling the shelves of grocery stores, garden centers, and big-box retailers the land over. And while they’ve become a little predictable, I have a great affection for poinsettias and always have at least one in the house over the holidays. With the right poinsettia care, you can even make them bloom again next year.

With their bold red bracts (often mistaken for flowers), poinsettias really are some of the best plants for Christmas decorations. But, rather than just plunking your poinsettia in the corner, why not make it the star of your festive table? Even the humblest grocery-store plant can be transformed into a magical centerpiece that gives off floristry vibes – yet couldn’t be easier to arrange.

With a few basic materials and a couple of plants, these poinsettia centerpiece ideas take just minutes to make and will bring so much joy throughout the season.

1. A Rustic Holiday Gathering Bowl

A poinsettia bowl creates a low centerpiece that works beautifully on dining tables, coffee tables, or sideboards. You'll need a wide, shallow bowl, pinecones, a selection of cut poinsettia stems from 1 or 2 plants – this arrangement uses red and pink varieties – and some moss or floral foam to keep the stems fresh. These Max Shape Round Floral Foam Blocks from Amazon have a 6.5-inch diameter, which will work well for most arrangements.

When cutting your poinsettias, initially keep the stems as long as possible until you know how long you want them to be for your display.

Moisten your foam or moss and place it in the bowl, then insert your poinsettia stems closely together until you have a full, abundant look. Fill the gaps between the plants with pinecones, acorns, or other natural textures to give it a warm, woodland feel.

If you prefer something a little more festive, you can take the same bowl arrangement in a different direction by swapping the pinecones for foraged evergreen foliage mixed with a few Christmas ornaments around the edge. The mix of soft greenery and shimmering ornaments frames the poinsettias beautifully and adds a touch of holiday sparkle.

2. Simply Sculptural Stems

A group of single poinsettia blooms displayed in vases makes a bold impact along a mantel, windowsill, or table edge. To get the look, snip healthy poinsettia stems from larger plants and briefly dip the cut ends in warm water to seal in their sap – this helps them last longer in a vase.

Choose an assortment of small glass vessels in different shapes and heights, keeping them within the same clear, minimalist palette so the vivid red bracts really stand out. This set of 12 clear bud vases from Amazon is ideal.

Fill each vase with fresh water and place a single poinsettia stem inside, letting the bracts fan out naturally. Group the vases closely together to create a dense, sculptural line of color.

3. Botanical Display Under Glass

There's something about a cloche that elevates a simple potted plant to a botanical display piece. To recreate this look, plant your poinsettia into a rustic terracotta pot and set it on a tray or slate board. Carefully lower a large glass cloche over the plant – this Park Designs Bell Glass Cloche from Amazon is a good size, but measure your plant first.

Surround the base of your cloche with foraged finds such as dried leaves, pinecones, small gourds, or moss to give the design a seasonal, woodland feel. A candle or two placed nearby adds a soft glow that enhances the cloche’s reflective surface.

4. Mini Topiary Trees

This mini topiary tree centerpiece looks high-end but couldn't be easier to recreate. Look for poinsettias trained into a single-stem topiary form (often sold in grocery stores or garden centers around the holidays). Alternatively, you could trim plants with good central stems. Choose three plants of similar height for the most balanced display.

Plant your poinsettias into small pots – terracotta works well, or galvanized metal adds a vintage touch, like this 3-pot herb set from Amazon. Finish each one by covering the soil with a layer of fresh green moss for florist's polish.

Arrange the trio in a straight line down the center of your table or along a mantel, keeping the spacing even. Then, place a few frosted pinecones and sprigs of red berries around the base to add soft winter texture and a pop of festive color. Setting everything on a subtle gold runner helps tie the whole arrangement together.

5. Whimsical Candlelight Centerpiece

This creative china display is a charming, eclectic centerpiece that feels both nostalgic and modern – perfect for a holiday table, sideboard, or cozy coffee nook. To style a display like this, use a mix of vintage teacups, mugs, or small bowls in complementary shades. Add a small block of floral foam to the bottom of each vessel and insert a candle in the middle. Then, push in poinsettia stems, paired with a few sprigs of garden foliage, allowing the foliage spill slightly over the rim for a relaxed, organic feel.

Adding pinecones, or seed pods around the base of the plants helps create a fuller, more textured look. Arrange the cups at varying heights by stacking them on saucers or small plates.

Enjoying lovely poinsettia plants through the holiday season is steeped in tradition. For centuries, this ornamental has been used to signify love and warmth – and its present-day use in holiday decor serves much the same purpose, adding color and joy to indoor spaces. But while it’s often widely recognized for its vivid splashes of red, there are other types of poinsettia to consider. For anyone keen to explore something bold and modern, pink poinsettias deliver both sophistication and cheer.

While poinsettia varieties boasting vibrant red bracts remain popular, newer introductions have helped to expand the color palette available to home growers. So if you’re looking to grow poinsettias and fancy something a little different, you’re in luck. The pink poinsettia plant, in particular, seems to have captured the hearts of many, becoming an instant favorite – lending femininity and modernity to the home and patio. So why not try one of these pink poinsettia flower varieties to add elegance and novelty to tablescapes, centerpieces, conservatories and gardens?

Choosing the Best Pink Poinsettias to Grow

Choosing the best pink poinsettias will depend most on your preferences. While most varieties are well-suited to growing in containers, they can vary in size and tone. Whether you’re after bold and festive poinsettia colors or something more low key and gentle, pink types can vary greatly. Generally, they range from very soft pastels to highly-saturated or near-neon shades of magenta and hot pink poinsettia hues. Growers will also appreciate the foliage, with leaves varying in overall shape and texture, offering striking complements.

1. J’Adore Pink

J’Adore Pink poinsettias make exceptionally attractive indoor specimens. If you’re after unusual houseplant varieties for the festive season and winter months, you’ll find that container plants branch well, allowing for full, bushy growth without the need for regular pinching or pruning. Their colored bracts contrast nicely against their dark green foliage, enhancing the overall interest and appeal of the variety through winter.

2. Early Elegance Pink

As its name would imply, this early cultivar can be found at garden centers throughout much of the holiday season. This one remains exceptionally popular among growers for diversifying indoor spaces and extending color. It’s an exciting option for anyone after bold and beautiful Christmas flowering plants and winter warmers, taking a less traditional approach to decor. Its bracts are highly praised for their true tones and are often noted among the best light pink poinsettias.

3. Princettia Pink

Princettia Pink poinsettias are popular for their alluring light hue. Amongst the most delicate pink varieties available, these plants are ideal if you want true pastel foliage plants and delicate tones in your seasonal displays and winter plants. Profuse cheerful bracts lend themselves well to modern floral design and home decor. Expect these plants to remain compact, making them a good choice for small containers and limited indoor space.

4. Pink Champagne

Pink Champagne poinsettias are a great choice for subtle, pink hues. This plant’s gentle pastel color is an excellent counterpoint to tasteful indoor decor ideas, meshing with a variety of holiday palettes. For lovers of pink flowers, its rosy bracts develop over an extended period, prolonging its pretty display. Pink Champagne will benefit from consistent moisture and routine feeding to keep plants at their best.

5. Christmas Wish Pink

Christmas Wish Pink is a favorite among outdoor growers, as well as those keeping poinsettias as a houseplant. So you are less likely to have to worry about having to fix poinsettia cold damage with this pink plant variety. Its highly saturated color is resistant to fading, making it a good choice for locations where plants can receive ample light. Disease resistance furthers this variety’s appeal, as it demonstrates impressive vigor and hardiness throughout the winter.

6. Polly’s Pink

Considered a mid-season type, Polly’s Pink impresses its growers with both size and vigor. These large plants yield near-fluorescent bracts in only the most brilliant shades of pink. As the variety can reach a considerable size, experienced gardeners often suggest using larger pots so you don’t fall foul of one of the classic container mistakes when growing this substantial beauty. Many find Polly’s Pink plants suitable for use in tablescapes or as a memorable centerpiece for holiday decor.

7. Monet

Monet poinsettias are best for adding a unique flair to their indoor space. If you’re looking for an unusual and hard to find houseplant with the potential to extend its character beyond the holiday season, Monet is a tasteful option. Its lightly colored bracts take on an intricate sprayed style of pattern, each with varying shades of pink and red. This cultivar is most likely to be found at florists and specialty greenhouses throughout the holiday season as a popular gift for friends and family.

They are one of the most popular and vivid holiday plants around and if you are lucky they can survive for a lot longer than just the holidays – but are poinsettias poisonous to cats? There are quite a lot of horror stories attached to this seasonal bloomer, and some cat-loving gardeners get understandably twitchy.

Festive poinsettia has a reputation for being toxic to cats, and some pet owners refuse to keep these plants anywhere near their homes. But how poisonous are poinsettia plants, really? Read on to dispel the myths about poinsettias and cats.

Are Poinsettia Plants Poisonous To Cats?

Poinsettia plants (Euphorbia pulcherrima) have an undeserved reputation for being poisonous to pets. Pitching festive poinsettia and pets in the same environment for long is meant to be a recipe for disaster. But is it really a big mistake to grow poinsettia with cats?

It’s an old myth that seems hard to refute. However, university research shows that, while the white sap inside the plant can be irritating, pets chewing on leaves or stems of poinsettias will not be poisoned. So are poinsettias toxic to cats? The simple answer is that a cat or other pet would have to consume a large quantity of the leaves to cause stomach distress.

Why the Confusion about Poinsettias and Cats?

The confusion about whether poinsettias are bad for cats or people may relate to the milky sap found in plants of the Euphorbia family. The milky sap can be irritating to the skin, eyes and mouth. In some plants, the sap toxicity is worse than in others. But in poinsettias, the irritant is mild.

So if you are intending to grow poinsettia as a houseplant, you can relax. In most cases, this sap would only bother someone with a latex allergy who is likely to get the sap on his skin. It is perhaps worth noting that the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Cats (ASPCA) does rate poinsettias as mildly toxic, but agrees the toxicity is “generally overrated” on a general level.

What Happens if a Cat Eats Poinsettia?

Are poinsettias bad for cats? If a cat or other pet chews enough leaves of the poinsettia plant, there is a possibility of vomiting or drooling. But a cat will not die from ingesting poinsettia leaves. Even if you become aware of poinsettia leaf drop or broken poinsettia stems, there is no major cause for alarm or panic.

Of course, if a cat or other pet chews too much of any type of plant leaves, the pet may experience a stomach upset or vomiting. If your cat tends to nibble on plants, don’t worry. You can still grow a poinsettia – but in this case, your best option is to keep the poinsettia somewhere high up. Try a high shelf or the top of a mantelpiece or bookcase, somewhere in the room where the cat is unlikely to reach it. Alternatively, you can place it in a room the cat does not frequent.

Which Decorative Plants Do Cause Cats Distress?

For anyone who has hesitated over the possible pet toxicity of festive plants such as poinsettia or amaryllis, the fact is that there are other decorative holiday plants that might be a bigger cause for concern. Mistletoe, holly and lilies are far more problematic than poinsettias. Mistletoe leaves or berries, if ingested, can cause vomiting and dehydration that will likely require medical treatment.

Holly leaves also have sharp spines that can pierce the mouth or tongue of our feline friends. In addition, holly leaves and berries contain a toxic chemical that can cause severe vomiting and diarrhea if consumed, and may require veterinary treatment. Lily leaves or flowers, if eaten, can also cause severe kidney damage, which could be fatal. Always call a veterinarian immediately if a pet consumes any part of a lily.

It is always a good idea to read up on any houseplant before you introduce it into your home. Selecting plants that are safe for cats is definitely going to save you some sleepless nights. But while you may think that poinsettias and cats don’t mix, there isn’t enough of a threat to keep you from enjoying these beautiful plants both during the holiday season and beyond.

Plant lovers often introduce seasonal color in the form of tropical bloomers like chrysanthemums, kalanchoe and poinsettias. Some are non-toxic, while others may be poisonous. Beloved as seasonal ornamentals, poinsettias are often kept as houseplants long after the holiday season ends. But if you have canine friends around you may well be wondering, are poinsettias poisonous to dogs?

If they do cause problems, what kinds of symptoms should you look for? And how do you keep your pooches out of trouble? Popular as these gorgeous plants are, the myths surrounding them can be confusing and misleading. So how dangerous are they, really? Keep reading to find out about potential poinsettia poisoning in dogs.

Are Poinsettias Toxic to Dogs?

Our fur babies are important family members and we do everything possible to keep them healthy and safe. Knowing what plants might be poisonous to them is imperative to their health. But it isn’t always easy, especially if you are growing plants like poinsettia as a houseplant for extended periods.

You might be so preoccupied with how to care for poinsettias during and beyond the holiday season that you forget about the inquisitive houseguests eyeing them up from a corner of the room. Pets are as curious as toddlers about new things brought into the home. Before you know it, they’ve taken a nibble or two.

Many pet owners have heard that poinsettias are poisonous to dogs and cats. But is this true? Not exactly. Poinsettias are members of the Euphorbia family. Many plants in this family do indeed contain a highly toxic latex, but in the case of poinsettias, it will likely only affect people with a latex allergy.

Does this mean Fido can munch on a poinsettia with impunity? Absolutely not. While the plant is not poisonous, it is toxic to pets and can cause gastrointestinal issues. So it’s best to keep this seasonal symbol of holiday cheer high up in a room and out of reach. A mantelpiece or tall bookcase is fine – on the floor is definitely more risky.

Signs of Poinsettia Poisoning in Dogs

It’s not always clear if your pooch has decided to get overly familiar with a poinsettia. You may notice signs of broken poinsettia stems, although that isn’t necessarily conclusive. But if your plant has recently experienced leaf drop, you might not always catch the fallen foliage before your doggy pal wanders by.

So what happens if your pet ingests parts of a poinsettia? Is a poinsettia poisonous to dogs only at a certain quantity? The milky sap (latex) which the plant contains can irritate their mouths and sometimes their stomachs. But they would have to ingest quite a bit to get an additional reaction like vomiting. Fortunately, poinsettias taste awful, so it is more likely that your pet’s curiosity will be sated after just a little nibble.

What to Do If Your Dog Eats a Poinsettia

If your dog eats some of the plant, try not to be alarmed. It may seem like a terrible mistake to make with your poinsettia, but it’s highly unlikely they ingested much of the plant. They’d rather have a dog treat or a carrot that tastes good. The best thing to do if your dog or cat eats part of a poinsettia is not to panic. Instead, keep a close eye on them. They may exhibit signs of an upset tummy and even vomit or have diarrhea. More likely, they may salivate excessively or drool.

Generally, these symptoms resolve themselves after a short period, but if you are still concerned after a few hours, reach out to your veterinarian.

How to Keep Dogs Safe Around Your Plant Babies

Just because poinsettias are off your holiday worry list doesn’t mean you should be complacent. There are other houseplants and winter-flowering plants that are poisonous to dogs and cats. Flowering amaryllis, peace lily, calla lily, lily of the valley and crocus are all a potential danger to pets.

Trees using balsam, cedar, holly, mistletoe or pine are also toxic to pets. Sometimes these and other toxic plants are included in floral or festive displays – a place we don’t always think of as a source of toxins. Just as worrying are the seasonal tree needles. Even the water from a cut Christmas tree is loaded with bacteria that can make your pets ill!

Common houseplants like dracaena are also toxic, so be aware of what is in your home, the same way you would if you had young children. Keep plants up out of reach, and do a little research before you introduce a new plant into the home.

Poinsettias are such a cheery symbol of the holiday season. However, all too often these festive houseplants don’t outlast Christmas and are thrown away once the colorful bracts have faded.

Good poinsettia care is key to their survival, but the plants have specific needs that must be met to ensure they thrive. Post-holiday plant care is also important for the plants to have longevity.

Avoid these common poinsettia care mistakes, and your plant will live on to see another Christmas.

1. Taking it outside

Poinsettias are very sensitive to cold drafts, so don’t buy one from an outside stall, and don’t leave it outside when you get home – not even in a sheltered porch.

‘You should also do your best to get your new poinsettia home from the store quickly, as they really don't like being exposed to the cold for any length of time,’ says Naomi Robinson, founder of Houseplant Authority.

‘Otherwise, you may see it start to lose leaves a few days after it gets home.’

If you have left your poinsettia outside or in the car for too long, then trim off any damaged leaves, and position it in a warm, draft-free spot. Leaves may fall off, but with proper care the plant may still survive.

2. Leaving it in the plastic sleeve

Poinsettias are often sold with their pots wrapped in attractive patterned sleeves. However, Jim Faust, Ph.D., associate professor of floriculture physiology at Clemson University, warns that this could harm the plant by letting it sit in too much water:

‘Do not leave the plant in the plastic sleeve – remove it straight away upon arriving home, and place the pot on a saucer to capture any water that may spill out the bottom when you water it.’

If saving the poinsettia to give it as a gift, punch a hole in the bottom of the plastic and use a saucer that should be emptied after watering.

3. Getting the room temperature wrong

Mexico natives, poinsettias like the warmth – but struggle when it's too hot. They thrive in a temperature of between 50-75°F (10-24ºC).

‘Being near a hot appliance will overheat a poinsettia, and conversely, a cold, drafty windowsill that gets below 50°F (10°C) will cause wilt and eventual death too. A steady warm temperature is best,’ says Clive Harris, creator of DIY Garden.

Avoid positioning your plant where temperatures will fluctuate a lot, and keep it away from drafts.

4. Not getting the light levels right

Poinsettias are notoriously picky when it comes to light levels. Too dark and they won’t thrive; too bright and they will burn.

‘Keep the plant in a spot that receives bright light for about six hours a day, but make sure you keep it away from direct sunlight, heat and drafts,’ says Clive.

In the winter, you should be able to keep your poinsettia close to a window, but during the summer months you will need to move it away so that it receives indirect light.

5. Overwatering your poinsettia

Watering poinsettia plants is a delicate balance – not too little, not too much. They don’t actually need a lot of water to thrive, and overwatering can lead to root rot.

‘A sign of this is if the leaves start to turn yellow or even drop off – this is usually an indicator of overwatering,’ says Naomi Robinson.

‘Instead, keep an eye on your poinsettia and only water it when the soil is clearly dry. This could ultimately be every day, especially if your poinsettia is sitting near a radiator, but may be up to every three days when it's placed elsewhere.’

To test when your poinsettia needs watering, push your finger down into the potting soil and see if it feels dry. When watering, it’s important to allow the water to drain through so the roots don’t sit in too much water.

6. Letting the soil dry out

In an effort not to overwater your poinsettia, don’t make the mistake of forgetting to water it at all. If the leaves have begin to wilt and drop off, this is a sure sign that you have not given your poinsettia enough water.

You should be able to save it with a good water, and letting it drain through. But avoid repeating the mistake too often.

7. Fertilizing at the wrong time

Fertilizing poinsettias is an important part of their care, but timing is crucial.

‘Poinsettias actually need fertilizer in spring when they put on growth, not during winter,’ says Clive Harris. 'Don’t fertilize your poinsettia in winter because you’re likely to kill it.’

Adding liquid fertilizer monthly during the late spring through summer, and you may be able to make the poinsettia flower again next year.

Explore More Festive Holiday Plants

• Poinsettias didn't make it this year? Try one of these easy-to-grow Christmas flowers other than poinsettias.
• If you're having problems with your live Christmas tree, too, we have the solutions. Find out how to fix your tree fast.
• Fill your home with holiday cheer! Check out our favorite holly jolly plants for Christmas decorations.
• Explore unique holiday evergreens that will instantly elevate your indoor and outdoor decor this season.

Among the most popular ornamental flowers, seasonal poinsettias have long been a favorite house plant, used to brighten indoor spaces throughout the winter months. A type of euphorbia, these showy plants produce brilliant red bracts. Though most gardeners are quite familiar with many types of poinsettia, some may be surprised to learn that the poinsettia is actually a type of tree. Continue reading for some poinsettia tree care tips.

How to Care for a Poinsettia Tree

Within their preferred range, outdoor poinsettia plants can grow to reach impressive heights. Though highly ornamental, these frost sensitive shrubs are simply not able to survive outside very specific growing conditions. Over the years, however, many plant professionals have taken great interest in replicating this same growth habit in new ways to make it more accessible to home gardeners. This passion, in tandem with the plant’s natural popularity, would eventually give way to the creation of much smaller, cultivated poinsettia trees.

Though created for ornamental use indoors, in containers, poinsettia topiary trees are generally much larger than the smaller potted types that are frequently found at retailers throughout late fall and winter. First, growers focus on the formation of a strong central stem. This is achieved through regular pinching and pruning. Additional leaves and branches are also removed throughout the process to create a distinctive tree-like form. As the production of these unique plant types does require much more labor in order to achieve the desired result, consumers can expect a comparatively higher price tag. Among the most popular live poinsettia tree varieties are ‘Independence,’ ‘Infinity Red,’ and ‘Snowcap.’

The needs of topiary poinsettias are very similar to that of their smaller counterparts. Each will require at least six hours of bright light in order to grow best. Poinsettias should always be positioned in a warm place, kept safely away from cold drafts, heating vents, or other variables that may cause unexpected changes in temperature. Soil should drain well and be kept consistently moist, making certain to avoid overwatering. As with any indoor plant, poinsettia trees will need routine monitoring to avoid troubles with common insects, like aphids or spider mites.

Though it is possible to continue growing poinsettia plants throughout the winter, encouraging them to produce colorful bracts the following season may be difficult, and will require special care. This special care includes the continued removal of new branches, selective pruning of leaves to maintain the plant’s tree shape, as well as very specific day-length exposure requirements. Home growers can meet these requirements by moving the poinsettia plants into a dark place for a set duration each day, around the time of the fall equinox.

Poinsettia is a classic Christmas flower with its festive red and white bracts. A native of Mexico, poinsettia has some unique needs that make it a little more challenging to keep as a normal houseplant. But caring for a poinsettia year round has its own reward: new blooms for the next holiday season.

About Poinsettias

The poinsettia we know as a holiday plant is actually a shrub or small tree in its native Mexico and Central America. It grows 10 to 15 feet tall (3.0 to 4.6 m.) as a deciduous or semi-evergreen plant on mid-elevation slopes along the Pacific Ocean. Its native habitat is tropical and seasonally wet.

What many people describe as the poinsettia flowers, that showy red part, are actually bracts. Bracts are modified leaves that surround the flower, which on poinsettia is the small yellow bloom in the center. Most poinsettia bracts are red, but in cultivation, you can find white, pink, and peach.

Do Poinsettias Come Back Every Year?

Like other tropical plants, poinsettias are most often grown as annuals. Most people buy them as decorations for the holiday season and then throw them away after in January or when they start to lose their luster.

Of course, in their native range, poinsettias grow year-round like other plants. This means that with the right care, you can keep yours going through the spring, summer, and fall, and get bright new bracts by next Christmas.

How to Care for Poinsettias Year Round

To take care of a poinsettia all year, start by providing the right conditions:

• A sunny room with no drafts
• Temperatures around 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit (12.8 to 18.3 Celsius) at night and between 65 and 70 (18.3 to 21.1 Celsius) during the day
• Protect from temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 Celsius)
• At least six hours of indirect light per day
• Water only when the soil is dry in the top two to three inches
• Water thoroughly each time, letting it run through the drainage holes

Overwatering and pooled water are very damaging to poinsettia. If you have bought a plant during the holidays, it probably has a festive plastic or foil wrap decorating the container. Remove this to avoid standing water and place the pot on a tray instead.

During the holiday season, you can keep your poinsettia healthy and blooming with these conditions, but also apply fertilizer. Use an all-purpose, water-soluble product about once a week.

After the holiday season, cut the plant back to the point that you have just a few leaves left. Continue with regular watering, but less often. Stop or drastically cut back on fertilizing too. You can also transplant it to a larger pot with good potting soil at this time.

One it’s warm enough outside, you can move your poinsettia outdoors. Find a spot where it will get good morning sunlight and some afternoon shade. Bring it back inside before it gets too cold in fall.

How to Make a Poinsettia Bloom

Bringing your poinsettia back to life begins in early October. Getting it to once again create colorful bracts and yellow flowers is a matter of getting light conditions right. The secret is to put the plant in darkness for 14 hours each day and bright light for the other 10 hours.

To do this, you can move the plant into a closet or dark room for the 14-hour period. Alternatively, place a box over it. If using a box, make sure there are no cracks to let in light. Even a small amount of light during the 14 hours can interfere with the plant’s production of buds. If you do it right, you should get colorful bracts again after two months.

Maintaining and reblooming a poinsettia requires some effort, but it isn’t hard. It can be worthwhile if you are able to be consistent with the light requirements in the fall. But if not, you might just want to buy a new plant each December.

A frozen poinsettia is a big disappointment if you’ve just bought the plant to decorate for the holidays. These Mexican native plants need warmth and will quickly get damaged or even die in colder temperatures. Depending on how long you left the plant outdoors or in a car, and the temperatures, you may be able to save and revive your poinsettia.

Avoiding Poinsettia Cold Damage

It’s better, of course, to prevent damage from the cold than to try and correct it. This popular seasonal plant is common in cold climates around Christmas, but it is actually a warm-weather species. Native to Mexico and Central America, poinsettias should not be exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.).

Even leaving a poinsettia outside when it’s around 50 degrees regularly or for extended periods of time can cause damage. When purchasing a potted plant, make it your last stop on the way home. A poinsettia left in car temperatures in winter can be damaged irreparably.

Also, although it may be tempting to put a poinsettia outdoors for holiday decorations, if you don’t have the right climate, it won’t survive. The hardiness zones for the plant on the USDA scale are 9 through 11.

Help, I Left My Poinsettia Outside

Accidents happen, and maybe you left your plant outside or in the car for too long and now it’s damaged. So, what can you do? If the damage isn’t too bad, you may be able to revive the poinsettia and even keep it happy enough to give you another holiday season of colorful cheer.

A poinsettia damaged by cold will have dead and dropped leaves. If there are any leaves left, you may be able to save them. Bring the plant inside and trim off the damaged leaves. Put it in a spot in the house where it will get at least six hours of light per day. Indirect light is best, such as a west- or east-facing window or a bright, open room.

Keep it away from drafts and ensure the temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees F. (18-24 C.). Avoid the temptation to put your plant too close to a radiator or heater. Extra heat will not help.

Water the poinsettia every few days to keep the soil moist but not soaking. Ensure the pot has drainage holes. Use a balanced, houseplant fertilizer as directed on the container once the midwinter growing season has passed.

Once you have warmer weather, you can take the poinsettia outside. In order to get it to bloom again for the holidays, however, you must give it 14 to 16 hours of complete darkness starting around the end of September. Move it into a closet each night. Too much light each day will delay flowering.

There is always a possibility that it is too late to save a frozen poinsettia, but it’s worth a try to revive it if you see some undamaged leaves.

Poinsettias are striking tropical plants appreciated for the bright color they provide during the winter holidays. With proper care, poinsettias can retain their beauty for two to three months and if you’re dedicated, you can even get poinsettias to rebloom the following year. Let’s learn about a very important aspect of poinsettia care: fertilizing poinsettias.

Best Fertilizer for Poinsettia Plants

Poinsettias do fine with any good quality, all-purpose fertilizer. A water-soluble fertilizer is easiest to apply, but a dry fertilizer will also satisfy poinsettia fertilizer requirements. Be sure to water the plant thoroughly after fertilizing poinsettias, especially if you use dry fertilizer. Otherwise, the fertilizer may scorch the roots and damage the plant. Don’t bother fertilizing your poinsettia while it’s blooming, it isn’t necessary. Similarly, if you don’t intend to keep the plant and your goal is to simply enjoy it as a holiday decoration, no fertilizer is needed. However, be sure to keep the plant well-watered, but never soggy. Place the plant in a bright, cool location away from heat and drafts.

When to Fertilize Poinsettias

Knowing how to fertilize a poinsettia is as important as when. If you’re saving your poinsettia for reblooming, the plant will benefit from a dose of all-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer in late March or early April. This is also time to give the plant a good pruning too. As a general rule, continue to fertilize the poinsettia regularly– about once every month during spring and summer, using the same fertilizer diluted to half strength. If you live in a mild climate and you’re able to take your poinsettia outdoors during the summer months, be sure to keep the plant well-watered and fertilized. Bring the plant indoors before the first frost. A well-cared-for and well-fed poinsettia will produce those abundant colorful flower bracts again and again, or at least as long as you intend on keeping the plant.

Many Americans only see poinsettia plants when they are wrapped in tinsel on the holiday table. If that’s your experience, it’s time you learned about growing poinsettia plants outside. If you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, you can begin poinsettia care outdoors. Just be sure that cold temperatures in your area don’t drop below 45 degrees F (7 C).

Can Poinsettias Grow Outdoors?

Can poinsettias grow outdoors? How? Yes. In the right climate and with the right planting location and care, these bright Christmas favorites can shoot up to 10 foot (3 m.) shrubs in rapid order. 

If it’s your potted holiday plant that makes you ask about planting poinsettia outdoors, you have to start treating the plant well from the moment it arrives. Water your potted poinsettia when the soil starts getting dry and place it in a sunny location in your home, protected from air currents.

Growing Poinsettia Plants Outside

When you start planting poinsettia outdoors, you’ll have to find a location with similar attributes. Poinsettia plants outdoors must have a sunny corner to call home, somewhere protected from harsh winds that can damage them quickly. 

When you are growing poinsettia plants outside, choose a spot with slightly acidic, well-draining soil. Be sure it drains well to avoid root rot. Don’t transplant poinsettia plants outdoors right after Christmas. Once all of the leaves have died back, prune the bushes back to two buds and keep it in a bright location. You can start planting poinsettia outdoors after all chance of frost has passed.

Caring for Outdoor Poinsettia Plants

Caring for outdoor poinsettia plants is not very time consuming or intricate. Once you see green shoots in spring, start a regular watering and feeding program. If you opt to use water soluble fertilizer, add it to the watering can every other week. Alternatively, use slow release pellets in spring. 

Poinsettia plants outdoors tend to grow tall and leggy. Prevent this by regular trimming. Pinching back the tips of new growth creates a bushier plant, but the bracts themselves are smaller.

Poinsettias are not very long-lived plants in the best of circumstances, but you can certainly extend poinsettia pleasure beyond one Christmas season with appropriate poinsettia care. Even better, you can grow replacement plants by propagating poinsettias. Poinsettia plant propagation can provide your home with a continuous supply of lovely holiday favorites. Read on to learn about poinsettia propagation methods.

Poinsettia Plant Propagation

If you are wondering about propagating poinsettias, there are two primary methods of poinsettia plant propagation. You can get new poinsettia plants either by planting seeds or by rooting a poinsettia cutting. Most people who propagate these plants do so by rooting a poinsettia cutting. This is the only way to ensure that you will get a poinsettia plant that is identical to the parent plant. It’s fun to plant the seeds though, and you may grow a great new variety.

How to Propagate Poinsettia Seeds

Remove seed pods from your plant as soon as they start to brown. Store the pods in a closed paper bag until the seed pods dry completely. When the seeds pop out of the pods, they are ready to plant. When you are learning how to propagate poinsettia seeds, you may be surprised by how simple it is. The seeds don’t need chilling or any other special treatment. Sow each seed just below the surface in moist soil and keep the pots in a warm place out of direct sun. Water the soil to keep it slightly damp and, in a few weeks, you should see new seedlings. Allow free air movement around the plants while they are very young to prevent diseases.

Rooting a Poinsettia Cutting

The most common manner of poinsettia plant propagation is rooting a poinsettia cutting. Although growers root cuttings in greenhouses, you can also root cuttings on a windowsill. To get the best new plants, cut healthy new stems from vigorous plants. Take 3 to 6 inches (8-15 cm.) of cuttings from parent plants just after their new growth starts in early summer. Using rooting hormones can help you succeed in rooting poinsettia cuttings. Tap some of the powder out on a paper towel and dip the cut end in the product. Then insert the cutting into holes you have poked into moist, pasteurized potting soil or fine sand. Put the cuttings somewhere bright but out of direct sunlight. Placing the pots inside plastic bags increases the humidity. After about a month, your efforts at propagating poinsettias should pay off as the cuttings grow roots and develop root systems.

Poinsettia Plant Toxicity - What Part Of Poinsettia Is Poisonous

Are poinsettia plants poisonous? If so, exactly what part of poinsettia is poisonous? It’s time to separate fact from fiction and get the scoop on this popular holiday plant.

Poinsettia Plant Toxicity

Here’s the real truth about the toxicity of poinsettias: You can relax and keep up your poinsettia care, even if you have pets or young children. Although the plants aren’t for eating and they might cause an unpleasant upset tummy, it has been proven time and time again that poinsettias are NOT poisonous.

According to University of Illinois Extension, rumors regarding the toxicity of poinsettias have circulated for nearly 80 years, long before the advent of the Internet rumor mills.

The University of Illinois Extension’s website reports the results of studies conducted by a number of reliable sources, including UI’s Department of Entomology.

The findings? Test subjects (rats) displayed absolutely no adverse effects – no symptoms or behavioral changes, even when they were fed large amounts of various parts of the plant. The United States Consumer Product Safety commission agrees with UI’s findings, and if that’s not proof enough, a study by the American Journal of Emergency Medicine reported no fatalities in more than 22,000 accidental ingestions of poinsettia plants, nearly all of which involved young children.

Similarly, Web MD notes that “There haven’t been any deaths reported due to eating poinsettia leaves.”

Not Toxic, But…

Now that we’ve dispelled the myths and established the truth about poinsettia plant toxicity, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.

While the plant isn’t considered toxic, it still shouldn’t be eaten and large amounts may cause stomach upset to dogs and cats, according to the Pet Poison Hotline.

Also, the fibrous leaves may present a choking danger in young children or small pets. Lastly, the plant exudes a milky sap, which may cause redness, swelling and itching in some people.

Growing poinsettia from seeds is not a gardening adventure most people even consider. Poinsettias are almost always found around Christmas time as fully grown potted plants to be given as gifts. Poinsettias are plants just like any other, though, and with some poinsettia care they can be grown from seed. Keep reading to learn about collecting poinsettia seed and growing poinsettia from seeds.

Poinsettia Seed Pods

The bright red “flower” of a poinsettia is not really a flower at all – it’s made of up special leaves called bracts that have evolved to look like flower petals. The real flower consists of the small, yellow parts in the center of the bracts. This is where the pollen is produced and where your poinsettia seed pods will develop. Poinsettias have both male and female parts and can either self-pollinate or cross-pollinate with other poinsettias. If your poinsettias are outside, they might be pollinated naturally by insects. Since they bloom in the winter, however, you’re probably keeping them as houseplants and will have to pollinate them yourself. With a cotton swab, gently brush against every flower, making sure to pick up some pollen each time. After a while, you should start seeing poinsettia seed pods-- big bulbous green things growing up on stalks out of the flowers. When the plant starts to fade, pick the poinsettia seed pods and store them in a paper bag in a dry place. After the pods are brown and dry, collecting poinsettia seeds should be as easy as popping the pods open inside the bag.

Growing Poinsettia from Seeds

So, what do poinsettia seeds look like and when should you plant poinsettia seeds? The poinsettia seeds you’ll find inside the pods are small and dark. In order to germinate, they first need to spend about three months in a cool place, like your refrigerator, a process called cold stratification. Then you can plant them under 1 ½ inches (4 cm.) of soil, but it may take a few weeks for them to sprout. Just keep the soil warm and moist until they do. Care for your seedlings the same as you would any other. Once mature, you will have yourself a poinsettia plant for gift-giving during the holidays.

Transplanting poinsettia plants will ensure they get plenty of root room as they grow and a new source of nutrition. In warm regions, you may also try moving a poinsettia plant outside to a sheltered location. You may not get blooms again, as the plant requires very specialized lighting and treatment, but the notched foliage will still provide outstanding greenery to set off other landscape plants. The secret to healthy plants is knowing what continued poinsettia care they need, including how to transplant them.

How to Transplant Poinsettias in Containers

Poinsettias are a holiday staple, but once the colorful, flower-like bracts are spent, they are just another houseplant. You can try to fool the plant into producing the colorful leaves the next season, but first, you have to keep the plant healthy. Some gardeners choose to save the potted plants indoors, especially in cooler regions. Can you transplant poinsettias outside? Absolutely, but there are some special requirements for this Mexican native to keep it thriving and lively. All container plants need good soil, the right size container, and excellent drainage, and poinsettias are no exception. The optimum time for transplanting is late spring to early summer. The University of Minnesota recommends June 15th as your target date. Choose a container that is 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) larger than the one in which the plant was grown. The soil should be organic, sterile, and loose. A purchased blend with peat moss is a good choice. Remove the plant from its pot and loosen the roots gently. Plant your poinsettia at the same depth it was growing in its previous container. Firm the soil around the roots and water it well. If you are using a saucer under the container, empty any standing water to prevent root rot.

Transplanting Poinsettia Plants Outdoors

Those of us lucky enough to live where there are few to no freezing periods can grow the plant directly outdoors. Can you transplant poinsettias outside in cooler regions? Yes, but make sure you wait until all danger of frost has passed. Some experts recommend cutting the stems back by half before moving a poinsettia plant, but this isn't strictly necessary. However, it will encourage new growth which can be pinched to encourage denser plants and more bracts. Prepare a garden bed in a sunny but protected area, such as the southern wall of your home. Incorporate organic material, like compost, to enrich the garden soil and increase drainage. Dig the hole several inches (8 cm.) deep and wider than the root ball. Fill the hole with loose soil to bring it up to the level of the plant's root ball. Loosen the roots and place the poinsettia in the hole, filling in around the root ball. Water the plant in well.

Additional Tips for Moving Poinsettia Plants

Poinsettias do best in daytime temperatures of 70 degrees F. (21 C.) or more and nighttime temperatures of no less than 65 degrees F. (18 C.). That means northern gardeners will need to move the plant indoors by the end of summer. The plant will benefit from half-strength liquid plant fertilizer applied in early March and every three to four weeks. Keep the soil moderately moist but never soggy or completely dried out. Touch the surface of the soil to determine if the plant needs water. To force the colorful bracts, you will need to start in October providing special conditions. Give the plant 14 hours of darkness and six to eight hours of bright light for eight to ten weeks. Nighttime temperatures must be 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.) for the plant to get tricked into blooming again. With a little luck and good care, you may be enjoying a holiday with colorful foliage for weeks.

Poinsettias are famous for their flower-like bracts that turn bright red in the wintertime and earn them a place as an extremely popular Christmas plant. They can be stunning when they’re healthy, but a poinsettia with yellow leaves is both unhealthy and decidedly not festive. Keep reading to learn what might lead to a poinsettia getting yellow leaves and how to treat yellow leaves on poinsettia plants.

Why is Poinsettia Getting Yellow Leaves?

Poinsettia leaves turning yellow can be caused by quite a few things, but the most likely source of the problem is water. So, are yellow leaves on poinsettia caused by too much or too little water? Unfortunately, it’s both. Whether your poinsettia is parched, or its roots are waterlogged, it’s going to respond with yellow, dropping leaves. You should always keep the soil in your poinsettia’s pot moist. Don’t let it dry out, but don’t water until the soil is sopping wet either. Try to keep your soil so that it is always slightly damp to the touch, and the pot has just a little extra weight to it when you pick it up. When you’re dealing with a poinsettia with yellow leaves, over or underwatering are the most likely culprits simply because they’re so easy to get wrong. If you think your plant has the right amount of water, though, there are some other possible causes. Your poinsettia with yellow leaves could be caused by a mineral deficiency – a lack of magnesium or molybdenum could turn leaves yellow. By the same token, overfertilization can burn the leaves, yellowing them as well. Root rot could also be the cause. If you think you have root rot, apply a fungicide. Repotting your poinsettia plant may also help. You can prevent the likelihood of root rot by always using new, sterile potting soil.

What’s red and green and appears in stores around the holidays? There are many answers to that question, but one plant that fits the bill is poinsettia, with bright red bracts and forest green leaves, the most popular potted plant in this country. While it’s easy to consider these to be simply part of the holiday décor, they are actually real, live plants that hail from the Mexican tropics.

If you want to keep your holiday plant as a pretty houseplant for a few weeks or months, watering is an important part of poinsettia care. But a lot of people don’t know how often to water poinsettias, or how much water to use. That depends on a few factors, like the type of soil in the pot and the home temperatures.

How Often to Water Poinsettias

The day you buy or are gifted a potted poinsettia, it probably looks its best. The leaves are bright, clean and open, the red “flowers” are bold and light up the room. But unless you water that plant regularly, you’ll soon see signs of wilt.

How often should you water a poinsettia? As with many tropical plants, the poinsettia does best if the soil is moist but not wet. That means that the quality of the soil will help you to answer this question. The heavier the soil, the less frequently you need to water.

However, unless you’ve purchased your plant from a garden store, it’s not likely that top potting soil was involved. If the soil is very light, it dries faster. In that case, how often do you water poinsettias? You may have to water more often, perhaps even every other day. Warmer home temperatures (above 70 degrees F during the day or 55 degrees F at night) can also dry out the plant faster.

How Much Water Do Poinsettias Need?

A poinsettia plant requires water when the soil dries out, but how much? Water the soil thoroughly when it is dry so that the roots in the bottom of the container get a drink. When you see excess water emerging from the drain holes in the container, you’ve provided enough.

How to Water Poinsettias

Watering poinsettias is like watering most houseplants: you pour water into the top of the container and keep adding water until it starts coming out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. But when it comes to these plants, often sold in grocery stores as short-term decorations, you’ll need to take a few other steps.

First, most poinsettias are sold in pots wrapped in green, red, or silver foil. You always need to remove foil on plants, at least from the bottom of the pot, when you water. Otherwise, the foil prevents water from dripping out. Waterlogged soil will cause root rot and the plant will quickly die.

A second extra step is to check the bottom of the pot for drainage holes. Sometimes plants are soil without drain holes, and if this is the case, you’ll have to either poke some into the container or else change pots.

Frequently Asked Questions

Native to Mexico, poinsettia varieties are often used as decor during the holiday season. At one time, there was only one variety of poinsettia plants available, a solid brilliant red, but today there are many different types of poinsettia plants of varying colors and sizes.

These various types of poinsettias have been created due to demand and fashion fluxes resulting in spotted, pink, dwarf, bush and even tree poinsettia plant varieties. Keep reading to learn about the basics of poinsettia care and the many poinsettia varieties you can use to decorate your home during the holidays.

Beautiful Poinsettia Varieties

Their Latin name Euphorbia pulcherrima means ‘most beautiful,’ and they are beautiful indeed! The newer cultivars come in various hues of orange, rose, pink, yellow and ecru and may be mottled or solid in color. Their form may be dwarf, bush or even tree.

As to the varieties, well, poinsettias come in over 100 varieties. ‘Orange Spice’ is a poinsettia with long orange bracts, ‘Ice Punch’ has red and white lightening banding, ‘Cinnamon Star’ has both orange and peach bracts accented with rosy hued edges, and ‘Plum Pudding’ is the first poinsettia with purple bracts!

‘Prestige Red’ is the classic red poinsettia most of us are familiar with. ‘Winter Rose Early Red’ is a poinsettia with bracts clustered together reminiscent of a rose in bloom and ‘Jingle Bells’ bracts have light pink and white splashes of color.

Not only is there a wide variety of poinsettia colors and sizes, but they are also categorized by their bloom time. For instance, early season plants begin flowering during the first week of September, mid-season during the second and third week of September and late season by the last week of September or first week of October.

This information is not likely to influence your selection unless you’re a poinsettia cultivator but it may explain why some varieties are finished “blooming” earlier than others.

About Poinsettias

Poinsettias are members of the family Euphorbia prized for their colorful bracts or modified leaves. Used by the Aztecs both medicinally and as dye plants, Franciscan priests were said to have used the colorful plants in the seventeenth century during Advent to decorate their Nativity scene. Their popularity spread throughout Mexico where it became a yule tradition. The plants were brought to the USA by the U.S. ambassador to Mexico around 1825.

In the wild, poinsettias can reach heights of up to 12-15 feet (3.5-4.5 m)! Over the course of many years, plants were hybridized by selecting shorter, stockier specimens that fit the confines of a house and which would retain their colorful bracts for longer. Thus it wasn’t until 1920 that poinsettias were developed to the extent that they would thrive as houseplants.

Frequently Asked Questions

Poinsettia After Christmas Care Guide

Every year many of us wonder what to do with a poinsettia after Christmas. Poinsettias became popular holiday plants around the 1960s, when a California nursery that specialized in the plants, marketed them as holiday plants, sending them to television stations as a marketing ploy during the holidays. Poinsettias have long been associated with the winter holidays in Mexico, because that is when their bright flowery bracts show up. Most people wonder what to do with a poinsettia after Christmas.

Poinsettias brighten our homes at holiday time but they do fade shortly afterward. Instead of allowing them to die or languish, you can care for a poinsettia throughout the year and in autumn, begin to prepare it to bloom again. With some focused attention, a poinsettia can bloom brightly again year after year. Here are some tips for poinsettia care after the holidays, and nurturing them over the year for a colorful show next winter.

How to Care for a Poinsettia After the Holidays

Poinsettias are readily available around the winter holidays. Their classic red bracts resembling flowers are a familiar holiday sight. But as the weather warms, the flowers begin to fall off and the plant is left with its green leaves. With good care, it can live on through the year, but the poinsettia requires us to follow a few simple steps to trick the plant into reblooming the following holiday season. Read on to learn all about year-round care for your beautiful poinsettia.

Light

Poinsettias initially produce their red bracts in response to shorter day lengths. In their native habitat as fall approaches they begin to experience lower light levels and, as the nights get longer, the plant’s photosensitivity responds by forming red flowery bracts.

While in bloom, poinsettias need bright light to look their best. They should get at least 6 hours every day. After the holidays they require the same level of light until around mid-September. After that, as autumn approaches, they need at least 12 hours of darkness. In spring they can be re-potted and moved outdoors for the summer.

Water

Poinsettia plants prefer moist soil. Remove the foil from around the plant so it never sits in standing water. When the soil is dry to the touch 2 inches (5.08 cm) below the surface, the plant needs water. Room temperature water is best for this plant. The frequency of watering will depend on where the plant is located. Container plants living outdoors for the summer need more water than those kept indoors. Continue your normal watering routine until spring (or the first of April), then allow it to dry gradually.

Temperature & Humidity

In their native habitat in Mexico, poinsettias live in mixed forests. As such, they require warm temperatures and have little resistance to the cold. Keep poinsettia plants away from extreme temperature changes in the home; don’t place them near drafty doors and windows or near forced heat air. Indoors, the plants prefer a temperature of 60-70 degrees F (15.56-18.33 C) and slightly cooler at night, but keep it above 60 F. (15 C) to avoid leaf drop.

Fertilizer

Poinsettia plants do not need extra nutrients during their blooming period, but they respond well to fertilizing in spring through summer. Apply liquid fertilizer diluted by half every 2 weeks. Common liquid houseplant fertilizer works fine.

How to Care for a Poinsettia Year Round

Here are tips for the best ways to care for your poinsettia through the seasons.

Winter

Avoid placing the plant where sudden temperature changes occur. This could cause the flowering bracts and leaves to fall off. Keep the plant near bright light and in moderately warm temperatures. Water and fertilize as needed and pinch or prune back any dead or leggy growth.

Spring

Spring is a good time to repot the plant. Poinsettias need well-draining slightly acidic soil. A potting mix with a high percentage of peat or perlite will provide a good medium for further growth. Pinch off the top growth to promote side branches and develop a nicely shaped plant.

Around the middle of April or May, or if your plant becomes leggy, cut the stems back to about 4 inches (10 cm) above the soil and repot in a larger container with fresh, sterile potting mix or a soilless mix.

Summer

In early summer, when nighttime temperatures are remaining above 50 F. (10 C) you can move the plant outdoors (in its pot) in a slightly shady location. Gradually, leave it outside for longer and longer periods of time until finally giving it 6 hours a day of full sun. Continue watering and fertilizing the plant as usual. Trim it again as needed in summer (typically around the first to middle part of July), pinching about an inch (2.5 cm) of terminal growth from each stem. Give it another pruning towards the first part of September. Trim off two to three inches (5-7.6 cm) to promote side branching, allowing 3 or 4 leaves to remain on each shoot. Keep watering and fertilizing as usual. Move the plant outdoors where it will get some sheltered light. Harden it off. By mid-summer, trim the plant again and move it to full sun. Be sure the plant gets 6 hours of sunlight daily. In the summer, plants can withstand some heat but should be placed where there is a bit of protection from direct noonday sun.

Fall

Autumn is the season to trick your poinsettia plant. Move it to a location where it gets 12-13 hours of darkness (some gardeners say 16 hours of darkness). A basement, attic, or even closet will provide the required darkness. Just before the end of November, the darkness treatment can stop. Return the plant to a bright window, and reduce watering and feeding by half. When the plant is in light, turn the container frequently to develop even growth. With a little luck the plant will begin to produce its bright red bracts just in time for the holidays.

As the days again begin to get cooler and shorter, follow the directions above for fall care of your poinsettia. By Christmas, your reblooming poinsettia will again be the centerpiece of holiday decor and ready to begin the cycle anew.

The elements of this plant’s natural habitat can be difficult to mimic at home, and there’s no guarantee that your poinsettia will bloom again even with the best care. But it’s certainly worth a try.

Poinsettias will start to fade after the season, but they’re perfectly capable of blooming again. Knowing how to get poinsettia to flower again starts with trimming spent growth and using fresh soil. A bit of patience pays off with vibrant red bracts. Trimming them cleanly at the stems that feel woody is ideal for healthy regrowth.

Most people toss their plants once the holidays are over, but getting a poinsettia to bloom again is really only a matter of giving it proper summer sun and the critical fall darkness that it needs. Basic poinsettia care helps to keep it healthy.

With just a little effort now, you won’t need to buy a new plant next year. Follow a few important steps, and you’ll have mastered how to make your poinsettia flower again – bold, vibrant bracts return without buying fresh, and guests will notice the full, colorful display rather than just a bare set of stems.

Post-Holiday Period

Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) often drop leaves after Christmas. The colorful bracts will start to fade, and the stems will begin to stretch. The plant often looks tired after weeks on display indoors. Start by pruning them back to 6 inches (15 cm) or so above the soil – it takes a bit to get going, but new shoots will sprout fairly quickly from the base. Be sure to use sharp shears like these from Amazon to avoid crushing the stems, and simply make a clean cut just above a leaf node.

The cuts will heal quite quickly in warm air, so checking the plant periodically over the next few weeks allows you to catch any early growth and adjust water or light levels as needed.

You can now repot it into some fresh potting mix. Choose a container that’s at least 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the old one. Drainage holes matter, too, since you don’t want to invite root rot. Water it when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dries. A bit of liquid fertilizer on a poinsettia every two weeks feeds the new growth. Skip the heavy feedings at first – roots adjust slowly.

Mix in some perlite for better air circulation. The soil should smell fresh when you open the bag. Tap the pot gently to settle the soil in, ensuring the plant sits steady without falling over. Incorporating a little bit of slow-release nutrients at this stage will give the roots extra support for developing strong, healthy shoots.

Maintaining a steady humidity level and the occasional gentle rotation of the pot encourages more uniform growth. Keeping notes on water schedules and new shoots ensures you can track progress and adjust care each year for optimal results.

Summer Growth Period

Move your plant outdoors to bright shade in May, since poinsettias thrive with 65-75 F (18-24 C) days. Morning sun works best. Water regularly but ensure that the soil dries out in between waterings. Check with a finger or a 4-in-1 meter from Amazon, and if the soil is still damp, you should wait to water. Rain can help, but watch for excessive wetness or sogginess.

Keep a watchful eye on the plant as it starts to make its adjustment to the new outdoor conditions, as well as removing any leaves that turn yellow or show stress to maintain overall health. Occasional gentle rotations of the pot help to ensure even light exposure and balanced growth across all of the stems.

Feed monthly with a balanced fertilizer, and pinch the stem tips to encourage branching – this results in fuller plants. Bring your poinsettia inside before the first frost, and add a simple saucer like this from Amazon to catch drips.

Watch for pests, too – hose them off if needed. Whiteflies often show up under the leaves, so it is important to spray as early as you can. Regularly checking soil moisture and the leaf conditions helps prevent over- or under-watering, while observing how the poinsettia responds to a fertilizer allows you to adjust amounts slightly for the best growth possible. The plant will grow bushy with a few pinches. Taking note of any new shoots each month gives you a clear picture of summer progress, setting the stage for a strong fall flowering cycle.

The Critical Dark Period (Fall Preparation)

From mid-September, your poinsettia will require 14 hours of darkness nightly. To achieve this, cover it with a box, or put it in a closet or tent like this from Amazon that is completely free of lights. Ensure no light leaks whatsoever. Street lamps count, so use a black bag if needed. The plant senses short days, and providing a quiet, undisturbed environment during this period reduces stress and encourages uniform bract development.

Keep the temperature cool, ideally 60-70 F (16-21 C), and water sparingly. Bracts color in around 8-10 weeks. Figuring out how to make a poinsettia flower hinges on this dark period – interrupt it, and the leaves stay green – so set a timer for consistency. Check at night that the room stays calm without vents blowing directly on the plant. Occasional gentle rotations during daylight will help to strengthen the stems and prevent uneven growth, while maintaining consistent humidity supports good leaf health and prepares the plant to put full energy into its flowering.

Signs of Success

Colored bracts mean success, and red pigmentation shows first on the top leaves. Pink or white varieties follow suit. The flowers last 6-8 weeks while the center "buttons" open yellow. Healthy plants push multiple stems, and the absence of yellowing leaves means that all is good. Enjoy the show!

Adding a bloom booster later like this from Amazon helps when you apply it at the start of the coloring phase. The bracts feel papery, and they turn vivid, while the plant stands tall without falling over. The center flowers open while pollen drops lightly. The show can last through January, providing a long-lasting, festive display that rewards your careful attention throughout the growing season, while giving you confidence that your care is producing strong, vibrant poinsettia plants year after year.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Light Interruption: Too much light during the dark period causes bracts to stay green, so check your covers are tight. Even light from a phone matters, and the plant reverts quickly.
• Watering Issues: Overwatering causes root rot, so let the soil dry between waterings.
• Fertilizer Errors: Using the wrong fertilizer burns roots, and high-nitrogen feed keeps the plant green. The stems soften quickly if soggy, and salt buildup burns leaf tips, so flush the soil in the spring.
• Excessive Heat: Heat over 75 F (24 C) delays color, so keep the plant cool during the critical dark phase.

How do you take care of poinsettias? Carefully!

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is a classic holiday plant, known for its festive red bracts set against green leaves. Keeping it looking pretty through Christmas is one thing. Growing it year round as a houseplant so it can make another appearance in twelve months' time? That takes a little more finesse.

Quick Poinsettia Facts

Planting a Poinsettia

Poinsettias are native to Mexico and Central America, where the winters are toasty. If you live in a climate warm enough for this tropical native (USDA zones 9-11, you can grow poinsettia outdoors year round. For most of us, however, garden poinsettias are just a pipe dream. Whether you're growing them inside or out, poinsettias' planting requirements are pretty much the same.

Light

If you're planting you poinsettia outside, choose a spot that gets partial shade. Be sure there's ample room for it to grow into a shrubby tree. Potted poinsettias are small, but when left outside to their own devices, they can grow ten feet (3 m) tall, or even higher!

Indoors, put your poinsettia somewhere with bright, indirect light. Avoid harsh, direct sun. Next to a sunny window is ideal.

Water

Watering poinsettia plants is best done regularly. Poinsettias do best with consistent moisture, but they will not tolerate soggy soil, which can lead to root rot. Make sure your poinsettia's pot has drainage holes in the bottom, and get rid of that foil! Lots of holiday potted plants come wrapped in shiny, colorful foil. It might look nice, sure, but it also traps water with nowhere to drain, rotting your plant's roots and striking it down well before its time. Toss the foil, put the pot in a saucer, and let those roots breathe!

Temperature & Humidity

You can grow poinsettias outside in areas where the temperature rarely drops below 45 F (7 C). Though they're associated with the holidays, poinsettia cold tolerance is actually nil. The ideal temperature range for poinsettia is between 50 and 75 F(10-24 C).

Soil

The best soil for poinsettia is light and drains well. Amend your soil if it is heavy, high in clay, or doesn’t drain readily.

Fertilizer

Use an all-purpose fertilizer with poinsettia. Apply it when you first put it in the ground. Continue to fertilize poinsettias about once a month throughout the growing season.

Pruning

The best time to prune outdoor poinsettia plants is in spring. Shaping it then will encourage the kind of growth you want for the season. Trim off any dead or broken branches and leaves. Trim branches back leaving a few leaves at the base. If you want a small, bushy poinsettia, trim branches aggressively.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Root rot is one of the most common issues with poinsettia, and it stems from one of the most common poinsettia mistakes: overwatering. Avoid it by ensuring the soil drains and by not watering too much.

Shriveled poinsettia leaves can be caused by anthracnose, scab, Rhizopus, or Rhizoctonia. Poinsettia leaves turning yellow can be due to root rot, over-fertilization, or a mineral deficiency. Poinsettia leaf drop is often due to environmental problems, like temperature, soil type, and lighting.

Pests you might see on your poinsettia include mealybugs, whitefly, scale, and red spider mites.

Broken poinsettia stems can be rooted and, with a little luck, propagated into new plants.

How to Keep a Poinsettia Alive After the Holidays

Most people grow poinsettia as a holiday houseplant and then toss it once it's stopped flowering. Year long poinsettia care is possible, though. Knowing how to take care of it outside of the holiday season is key to getting a poinsettia to rebloom:

• Once the flowers, bracts, and many of the leaves have died and dropped off, reduce watering and let the soil dry completely.
• Store your dormant poinsettia in a dark, cool area of the house, about 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 Celsius).
• Water infrequently, just enough to prevent the woody growth from shriveling.
• Repot the poinsettia in mid-spring.
• In the new pot, cut the stems back to about six inches (15 cm) above the soil.
• Water the poinsettia very well and set it by a sunny, warm window. Water regularly as the soil dries.
• When new growth appears, begin fertilizing the poinsettia.
• Place the pot outside when temperatures are consistently 50 degrees or higher.
• Bring the poinsettia back inside in late summer or early fall and place it by a sunny window. Continue watering and fertilizing regularly.

Poinsettia flower growth is triggered by long nights. From about October 1, ensure your poinsettia gets 14 hours of darkness per night. Any light during this period will delay flowering. Use a dark room or place a box over the pot.

Propagating Poinsettia

While planting poinsettia seeds is possible, the best method of poinsettia plant propagation is taking stem cuttings. Cut several inches off a stem and remove the lower leaves. For the best results, use a rooting hormone on the cut end and place it in a light soilless potting mix. Keep the cutting in the shade and use a cover to retain moisture. You should have transferable roots in about four weeks.

Poinsettia Varieties

Poinsettias are popular, which means there's a big market in developing fun new varieties. While regular old red is the classic, you can also find pink, white, and speckled specimens out there. And the good news? New ones are being created all the time. Here are some pretty types of poinsettia plants to look for:

• Prestige Red is a classic red variety.
• Early Orion Red is a good choice for early Christmas poinsettia decor.
• Ice Punch has bright red bracts and a white center.
• Marco Polo has peachy-colored bracts.
• Mars Pink displays deep pink bracts with yellow flower in the centers.
• Mars White is a great choice for a white variety.
• Sonora White Glitter is a unique variety with white-speckled red bracts.

Are Poinsettias Poisonous?

It's virtually impossible to have one of these plants in your home without someone warning you that poinsettias are poisonous. And if you have a pet, the warnings are going to come tenfold. Where did this persistent idea come from? Is it even true?

The fact is that poinsettias are part of the Euphorbia family, which is known for having toxic white sap. While poinsettias also have milky white sap, it's far from deadly, and is mostly just a skin irritant.

If your dog or cat nibbles it, try not to worry, but do keep a close eye on them. That white sap might irritate their stomach, making them drool or even vomit, but chances are it will clear up on its own.

Of course, if your pet has eaten a large amount of poinsettia, or if they're acting strangely or especially unwell, you should take them to the vet.

Click these links to read more about dogs eating poinsettias and cats eating poinsettias.

Poinsettia Care Essentials

Quiz!