Water wick propagation is a unique take on the traditional plant propagation technique of air layering. Air layering has been around long enough that most propagators know the routine: wound a node, pack it with damp sphagnum moss, wrap it in plastic, wait. It works on a wide range of woody and semi-woody plants.

The wick method takes the same underlying principle as air layering — keeping a node moist while it’s still drawing energy from the parent — and removes the part most people find fiddly, which is maintaining consistent moisture inside the wrap.

It’s one of the more interesting variations among the types of plant propagation worth knowing about, and the setup is genuinely simple. A cotton wick runs from a small water reservoir up to the node, delivering moisture through capillary action continuously. The plant does the waiting; the wick does the work. Like any propagation method, constant moisture still needs some airflow—if the area stays too wet without oxygen, the wound can rot instead of rooting.

How Water Wick Propagation Works

Capillary action is what makes wicking work—water moves through a fibrous material from a wet end toward a dry one without any pump or pressure required. A cotton wick, a strip of flannel, or even a twisted length of cotton rope will pull water upward from a small jar or bottle and deliver it steadily to whatever it’s in contact with. In propagation, that contact point is a prepared node on a branch that’s still attached to the parent plant.

The node needs a little preparation first. Scraping away a small band of bark about an inch (2.5cm) wide to expose the cambium layer, or making two shallow cuts around the stem, gives roots something to emerge from. The wick gets wrapped snugly around that wounded area and held in place with a loose tie—not so tight it cuts into the stem, but tight enough to stay in contact. The other end drops into a water container positioned nearby. From that point, moisture delivery is automatic.

Setting It Up

The wick material matters more than expected, as well. Cotton works well because it wicks consistently and is less prone to stagnation than heavier materials that can rot a wound before roots have a chance to form. A strip of old cotton t-shirt, a length of cotton yarn, or a purpose-made plant watering wick all do the job. Cotton plant watering wicks from Amazon are inexpensive and sized for exactly this kind of use. Some synthetic materials tend to wick less reliably and are worth skipping. Others like nylon/poly wicks can actually wick better in some setups.

The container just needs enough volume to stay topped up between checks—a small jar works fine for a single wick. Position it close enough that the wick reaches the node without pulling taut; tension can cause it to shift over time. Wrapping the assembly loosely with clear plastic film helps retain humidity around the wound without fully sealing it, which keeps conditions closer to what roots prefer without the full sealed-wrap setup of traditional air layering.

Which Plants Work With This Method

The wick method is most reliable on plants that already respond well to standard air layering—pothos, philodendrons, rubber plants, monsteras, and most woody houseplants are good candidates. Outdoor shrubs and trees that air layer readily, like magnolias, rhododendrons, and azaleas, are also worth trying. The common thread is that these plants form roots at nodes without much resistance when moisture and a little wounding are combined. Plants that tend to be reluctant rooters through other methods aren’t likely to behave differently here.

Results vary by species and season. Roots tend to develop faster during active growth in spring and early summer than in fall or winter. Once roots are visible through the plastic wrap—or a gentle tug on the wick meets resistance—the branch can be cut below the rooted node and potted up into a well-draining mix. It’s not a method that works on everything, but for the right plant at the right time, the wick runs the operation for you.

Honest Assessment: Does It Actually Work?

It does, with some caveats. The wick method is more consistent than moss wrapping in one specific way: it eliminates the dry-out problem. Sphagnum moss that isn’t checked regularly can drop below the moisture threshold roots need, stalling the process or killing it outright. A wick connected to a water source doesn’t have that failure mode. As long as the reservoir stays filled, the node stays moist. That autopilot quality is the real advantage, and it makes the method genuinely useful for anyone who tends to forget about projects mid-process.

The trade-off is that it’s slightly less controlled than a sealed moss wrap, which holds humidity more precisely around the wound. In very dry environments or during hot weather, evaporation from an unwrapped wick can outpace capillary delivery. The plastic wrap layer helps with this, but it’s worth knowing the limitation exists.

Overall, the wick method is a legitimate propagation tool—not a gimmick. It just works best when the conditions are reasonable and the plant is already inclined to cooperate. The wick handles the moisture. The rest is up to the plant.

Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to grow – and it’s effortlessly beautiful as well. No wonder it is so popular among both first-time plant parents and established gardeners. But as easy as this houseplant is to grow, it still requires some special care in spring as the active growing season begins.

To grow pothos plants that are lush and long-lasting, you have to provide them with the proper conditions and care. Luckily, this isn’t hard to do. These low-maintenance houseplants don’t mind low light or a bit of neglect, so they’re practically foolproof.

But if you want your pothos to thrive and not just survive, add these 6 tasks to your to-do list this month. Here’s what your pothos plant needs in March to set it up for a fabulous rest of the year.

1. Give Them a Good Soak

One of the features of the pothos plant that make it low-maintenance is its drought tolerance. During the fall and winter when plants are dormant, they don’t require as much water. But as your pothos wakes up in spring and starts actively growing again, it’s important to give it a good drink.

As spring temperatures rise in March, deeply soak your pothos plants to refresh them and flush out any salt or mineral buildup in the soil. Do this in the sink or a bathtub or even outdoors, if the weather is warm enough.

Do not overwater plants, though. They don’t need a big soak every time they dry out. But one deep watering session in March can help hydrate them well for the warmer months ahead.

2. Freshen Up Their Soil

Spring is the best time to repot houseplants. As they enter the growing season, they need a good potting medium to support strong root growth. You don’t need to repot pothos plants every March – they actually like to be a bit rootbound.

But if it’s been a few years or if you see roots peeking through the drainage holes in the bottom of your pothos’ pot, that’s a sure sign it’s time to repot. If you want to keep your plant in the same pot, you can prune the roots with a sharp, clean pair of pruners. These ones from Fiskars work perfectly.

Then dump the old potting soil into your compost pile or outdoor garden beds – as long as your pothos is pest and disease-free – and refill with a fresh indoor potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

3. Feed Your Plants

Now is the ideal time to fertilize pothos plants. They don’t have huge feeding needs, but giving them a dose of extra nutrients in spring sets them up for a strong growing season in summer. Use an all-purpose indoor plant food, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Be careful not to overfertilize your plants, though. Too much nitrogen can cause leggy pothos vines or even fertilizer burn that hurts plants and sets back growth.

If you repotted or refreshed your pothos soil, you don’t need to feed them now. Most high-quality potting mixes include some type of fertilizer, so adding more is overkill.

4. Check for Pests

Plants aren’t the only ones who wake up and start growing again in spring. Pests do, too. This month check your pothos for common houseplant pests like mealybugs, scale, and spider mites. Look on the underside of leaves where many pests like to hide.

If you find any pests on your plants, take them outside and spray them with insecticidal soap, which you can get on Amazon. It’s also a good idea to quarantine pest-infested plants for a while before introducing them back into your houseplant collection. Keep them in a different room for a few weeks, until all signs of pests are gone.

Wiping down plants with neem oil, which is also available on Amazon, is an organic way to prevent pests before they strike. It also gives plants a nice, natural glossy shine.

5. Trim for Bushy Growth

If your pothos is looking scraggly, now is the time to give it a refresh. Pruning pothos plants in spring encourages fuller, bushier plants.

Cut long, leggy stems just above a node at a 45° angle with a pair of sharp, clean scissors. These petite and precise pruning shears from Fiskars are ideal for this purpose.

Though it may seem counterintuitive, cutting back pothos promotes a flush of new growth. And because your plant is just now entering the active growing season, the new vines will be sturdier and lusher than the old growth from last fall and winter.

6. Propagate More Plants for Free

Save those cuttings you just took from your plant – you can use them to propagate more pothos plants for free. Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to propagate because it sprouts new roots fast with minimal effort.

Take a cutting that’s about 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) long and remove the bottom couple of leaves to expose a few nodes. Place cuttings in a glass of water, making sure to submerge two or three nodes. That’s where new roots will sprout. Wait a month or two for roots to develop, making sure to refresh the water every few days.

After about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of roots appear, transplant cuttings to a pot filled with indoor potting mix. Alternatively, you can plant cuttings directly into potting mix to root. Dip them in a rooting hormone powder, like this one from Amazon, to help them form roots faster. Then care for them like a regular pothos plant.

Shop Spring Pothos Essentials

It can be hard to read the signs that a plant is struggling. It’s easy to miss a slight wilting of the leaves or even slowing growth. But when you see your pothos leaves turning black, there can be no doubt in your mind! Something is amiss with the plant.

Anyone growing pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is familiar with the cheery beer-bottle green color of healthy pothos leaves. The foliage may be variegated with paler greens or yellows and still appear in the peak of health. But black pothos leaves ring alarm bells in any household.

We’re here to explain the issue and the easy steps to take to fix it.

Reason for Pothos Leaves Turning Black

I consider my pothos as “best friend” plants. Like a best friend, pothos are cheery, easy-going, in fact, the easiest of houseplants to have in your home. They are infinitely tolerant, thriving in partial sun and even shade, and shrugging off those times you just forget to water. I never fertilize my pothos, not even the ones that cascade three feet (1m) from a hanging basket.

That means that when a pothos is ailing, it’s a big deal. Yes, there may be an occasional yellowing pothos leaf or two without sounding an alarm. But when the cheery green leaves start turning black, you are looking at a plant in distress.

Root Rot - Overwatering

There are many possible culprits when it comes to black spots on pothos leaves, but - as is the case in most real crime shows - there is one primary suspect. If you are ever asked to bet on why a pothos plant is turning black, put your money on root rot.

Root rot in plants always sounds serious, like the black plague in humans. But the cause is the very common and banal practice of overwatering. Pothos, like all houseplants, like an occasional drink of water, and need it to survive, but they do not tolerate wet soil.

Something in human nature makes us want to provide over-and-above for our plants and pets, but it isn’t healthy for them. If you are obsessively watering your pothos every day or every other day, just stop. Only provide water when the top two inches of soil are dry.

How does this look in practice? I water my small pothos pots once a week, and my big ones twice a month. They are in the peak of health. Still not confident? Investing in an inexpensive soil moisture meter like this one from Amazon is a good place to start as you learn more about your pothos's needs.

Root Rot - Poor Drainage

Sometimes root rot is not necessarily an indication that too much water is flowing into the container, but that too little is flowing out. Pothos need water but they also need well-draining soil that allows excess water to flow out quickly. When the soil is heavy or the pot has too few drainage holes, pothos roots rot and the leaves turn black.

If your pothos leaves are developing black spots but you don’t water that often, check the drainage. Changing out the soil and making sure the container has generous drain holes are steps one and two.

If the situation has been going on for some time, the damage might be more serious. In this case, you may also need to remove the root ball from the container and check the roots. You can recognize rotting roots easily because they are dark and soft rather than white and crisp. Snip off the rotting roots and replant the root ball in fresh soil and amend the soil with perlite.

Acute Cold or Freeze Damage

Pothos are rainforest plants in the wild, temperate zones where the temperature stays above 60 degrees F and they never experience a freeze. They need similar growing conditions in your home to thrive.

If the temperature in your house (or wherever you keep the plants) drops below 60 degrees F (15.5 C), your pothos react by stopping all growth. If it gets even colder, the plant will experience damage. If the pothos is subjected to extended cold temperatures and especially frost, the leaves will turn black. That suggests cell damage from which the pothos may never survive.

What to do? Don’t expose your plant to cold temperatures and keep them away from any cold drafts. Instead, keep those lovely pothos in the warmest part of your house over winter, far from air conditioners and open windows. A simple device like the Govee indoor hygrometer and thermometer from Amazon will allow you to keep track of temperature and humidity fluctuations and make informed decisions.

If the worst comes to pass and the plant is exposed to frost, move the plant to a warm spot as quickly as possible and keep your fingers crossed. If only a few leaves are black, the plant is likely to bounce back. If most of the leaves are black, the plant may be beyond help.

Other Possible Causes

Some garden writers suggest that underwatering, overfertilizing, and direct sunlight can darken pothos leaves. Call me a nit-picker, but I think these excesses wilt the leaves and turn them brown and crispy rather than black. In general, keep your pothos out of direct sun, fertilize very infrequently if at all, and water when the soil is dry to the touch.

How about pests like mealy bugs, spider mites or scale bugs? These pests feed on the pothos leaves, and can cause sooty black mold and black-brown spots on the leaves. If this is your issue, check the plants frequently and take action whenever pests are spotted. Try blasting off the bugs with a hose. Alternatively a neem oil spray will take care of the problem. Our editors love Captain Jack's neem oil spray which is available from Amazon.

Pothos is one of the most common and popular houseplants. There are several cultivars available of this foliage plant, with leaves in deep greens, bluish green, and even variegated varieties. Also known as golden pothos, devil’s ivy, and hunter’s rove, the plants are in the Arum family and occur from Southeast Asia to the western Pacific. Pothos plant types are not cold hardy and prefer little sunlight, but they are easy to grow and thrive even in office settings.

Our Top 8 Pothos Varieties

There are about 15 species in the genus, with many of them available for home cultivation. These have led rise to several cultivar types of pothos. Among these types of pothos plants are specimens that have been bred to display neon green, creamy white, and gold leaves, along with the standard green varieties. Each of these pothos types has similar cultivation requirements and thrive in indoor settings.

1. Golden Pothos

This is a tried and true variety with heart shaped green foliage splashed with gold. In the right situation these leaves can grow up to 12 inches ( 30 cm) wide. It has the same warm temperature needs and lower light requirements as most of the pothos plant types.

2. Baltic Blue Pothos

3. Neon Pothos

An amazing Pothos specimen, Neon Pothos develops heart shaped chartreuse leaves which are brightest when young. Unlike some of the pothos varieties, Neon prefers a bit more light which will help the leaves achieve their brightest color.

4. Manjula Pothos

This pothos has everything in one plant. The heart shaped leaves are decorated with several shades of green, silver, and cream. Every leaf is individually adorned with flecks and splashes of these hues. The edges of the leaves are slightly wavy, a way to tell it apart from other variegated pothos plant varieties.

5. Global Green Pothos

6. Pearls And Jade Pothos

Firm arrow shaped leaves that look like they have been dipped randomly into 2 pots of different colored paint, white and green. The white portion has very faint green flecks. This is a slow growing cultivar and has smaller leaves than some of the others.

7. Cebu Blue Pothos

Narrow, extremely pointed, arrow shaped leaves adorn Cebu Blue. It needs a warm, fairly bright location to develop its signature blue green hue. Mature leaves may naturally split and the leaves have a glistening sheen.

8. Lemon Meringue Pothos

Frequently Asked Questions

With its vining habit and interesting leaves, pothos is such a delightful houseplant. It’s also extremely easy to grow and always looks good, making it ideal for beginners, or as a low-maintenance addition to a larger indoor garden.

There are many pothos varieties to choose from, but the most coveted, rarer types are variegated pothos and those possessing interesting leaf forms. These make a particularly stunning feature in the home.

Pothos plants can be displayed in a variety of ways to get the best out of them – whether trailing over the side of a hanging basket or planter on a shelf or windowsill, grown vertically as a climber, or horizontally across a flat surface. Alternatively, prune pothos to keep a compact shape.

Care is easy, as the plants thrive in a range of growing conditions. They will tolerate low light, but look best when they receive some natural light. Pothos hate soggy roots, so only require watering every week or two once the top layer of potting soil has dried out. Fertilize pothos in the spring, and again in the summer.

Discover rare must-have pothos varieties to add to your collection.

1. Lemon Meringue Pothos

A beautiful variety of variegated pothos, Lemon Meringue lives up to its name with dark green leaves highlighted with bright yellow edges, as well as occasional streaks of cream. This beautiful coloring is more visible when the plant is in a lighter spot. Ideally, position it on a table or countertop with windows nearby.

Over time, the Lemon Meringue pothos plant can climb to 6 feet long or more over time. It has slightly higher water needs than average, so check on it weekly to see if the top two inches of potting soil has dried out.

2. Baltic Blue Pothos

Baltic Blue is truly one of the most stunning pothos varieties, featuring rich green-blue leaves with dramatic monstera-like cuts in the side. It's ideal for adding texture to your interior.

It’s a versatile plant that can be grown vertically, horizontally, or trailing out of a hanging basket. Although, when the plant is young it makes a great tabletop addition. You can keep the plant compact by pinching back new growth, which will also encourage it to fill out.

Baltic Blue pothos prefers to be in a bright spot with some natural light, where it will develop larger leaves if allowed to climb. Check the soil moisture level weekly, and fertilize twice a year.

3. Global Green Pothos

A fairly new variety of pothos, Global Green is particularly easy to grow, with low water needs, and thrives in a variety of light conditions.

Its leaves possess gorgeous green-on-green variegation with mid-green centers and darker green edges, while it sometimes reveals slivers of cream and white.

It’s a fast grower, and can be easily trained to climb. Alternatively, prune to keep compact, or allow it to trail over the side of a tall planter or hanging basket.

Water every week or two, and fertilize in spring and summer.

4. Albo Pothos

Albo pothos is a variegated variety that can be grown as climbing or trailing. Each leaf is different with streaks and splashes of white. It’s fast-growing and makes a stunning feature when grown vertically up a support, as the leaves will form fenestrations – window-like cuts – in the leaves

Tolerant of a range of growing environments, the Albo pothos is compatible with almost any home. It prefers a bright spot but will survive lower light levels – though it will grow more slowly, and its leaf variegation will be more subtle.

Water Albo pothos only once the top couple of inches of the potting mix feels dry to the touch, and fertilize in spring and summer.

5. Manjula Pothos

With big heart-shaped leaves and variegated leaves in shades of green, white, and cream, the Manjula pothos is a coveted variety, and also a great lookalike for the even rarer Harlequin pothos.

In order to maintain the light coloration of its leaves, Manjula needs to be positioned with more light than other pothos varieties – though this should be indirect.

Otherwise, it’s just as low maintenance, requiring watering every week or two when dry, and fertilizing with a balanced all-purpose houseplant feed in the spring and summer months.

If you asked gardeners to vote for their easiest houseplant, it is very likely that pothos (Epipremnum aureum) would be among the top of the crop. This foliage plant, a climbing vine in the wild, is often seen cascading from its pot in a living room and it tolerates and even thrives on neglect.

Wondering when to repot pothos? Pothos repotting is largely optional and, like every other maintenance task, very easy.

Meet the World’s Easiest Houseplant

Pothos has a variety of common names ranging from golden pothos to devil’s ivy, but nobody ever calls it a temperamental houseplant. It hails from the island of Mo’orea in French Polynesia, but has naturalized in many other tropical and subtropical forested areas in Southeast Asia, South Asia and the Pacific islands.

Pothos is a foliage plant par excellence, with large, lovely heart-shaped leaves that can be variegated with white, yellow, or paler green. In the tropics, it grows as a long, leafy vine (to 70 feet, or 23 m) but indoors it rarely exceeds 30 feet (10 m) in length. It can be grown as a climbing or a cascading houseplant.

Caring for a Pothos

Indirect sun and well-draining soil top the list of what pothos needs to be happy. An occasional watering helps but this plant likes the soil to dry out well between drinks. This also prevents root rot. You can fertilize your pothos if you really want to, but no more often than every three months and, quite frankly, the plant is likely to do just as well without.

What about repotting? Again, repot if you like. There are different opinions when it comes to timing. How often to repot pothos? Some experts suggest that this be done every year, while others remind gardeners that a root bound pothos is a happy pothos.

How to Repot a Pothos

You could consider repotting a pothos if roots grow from the drain holes, the plant’s leaves are growing in small, or you want a larger plant. Most plants stay smaller in smaller pots, allowing themselves to grow as large as their root system will allow. If any of these is the case, act in late winter to get the plant into its new quarters for spring.

Pick a container with ample drain holes and make sure they are on the bottom of the pot, not the sides. The new pothos pot should be just a few inches bigger than the current pot. Tip the container and gently remove the pothos from its current container. Clip off any circling roots as well as any dead or rotting roots.

Replace as much soil as you can without impacting the root ball. Don’t spend a fortune on soil -- any average well-draining potting soil is fine for a pothos. Keep the top of the plant root ball on the same level as it was in the prior pot. Tuck extra soil around the edges of the root ball and tamp it down carefully.

Pothos is one of the most common and popular types of houseplants. A South Pacific native, it is a fast growing vine with heart-shaped leaves and low maintenance needs. Due to its popularity, there are many cultivars for the houseplant collector, including pothos with white variegation, different shades of green, and golden patterns.

About Variegated Pothos

Pothos is popular in the home for several reasons. Pothos plants grow quickly and produce pretty vines in a range of colors, sizes, and patterns. They are among the easiest houseplants to grow. If you’re someone who tends to forget to water your plants, this is the plant for you.

While pothos is a vine, it doesn’t need a structure to climb. You can train it to something and let it grow up to 30 feet (9 m.) long, or just let it trail and trim to whatever length you like.

All types of pothos, variegated included, prefer bright, indirect light. They’ll tolerate low-light conditions and even a lack of windows, if there are interior lights. Just be aware that you can lose some of the variegation in leaves in lower light conditions. The soil should drain well and dry out between waterings. High humidity is best.

Epipremnum aureum Variegated Pothos Types

Pothos' botanical name is Epipremnum aureum, and there are multiple cultivars with varying appearances, including those with striking variegation. Pothos is both a good place to start for a beginner houseplant collector and an opportunity to find unique and rare types.

Some of the most attractive pothos plants have striping or variegation. If interesting patterns catch your eye, try some of these pothos cultivars:

• ‘Marble Queen.’ This is one of the most common types and is a white variegated pothos, and it’s easy to find too. The variegation is green and cream. In low light the cream coloring can turn yellowish.
• ‘Golden.’ Also popular is variegated ‘Golden’ pothos. It has variegated leaves with green and a golden yellow.
• ‘Tricolor.’ A little harder to find, ‘tricolor’ has green, white, and cream with uniquely white stems. It has more white coloring than other varieties.
• ‘Pearls and Jade.’ This is a newer, small variety of pothos. The leaves are only about 2.5 to 3 inches (6-8 cm.) long. ‘Marble Queen’ is the parent plant to this cultivar, and they have similar variegation. The leaves on ‘Pearls and Jade’ are white and green like ‘Marble Queen,’ but also have some gray coloring and a more irregular pattern.
• ‘Manjula.’ Both this cultivar and ‘Pearls and Jade’ were created by the University of Florida. ‘Manjula’ can be hard to find but is worth the hunt for its striking cream, green, and white foliage.
• ‘Brasil.’ This unique variety is named for the fact that the leaves resemble the Brazilian flag. They are dark green splashed with a lighter, greenish yellow color. The color blocks are larger than in some other varieties.
• ‘Global Green.’ For unique green-on-green variegation, look for this newish cultivar. ‘Global Green’ has typically darker green leaves and edges, with slightly lighter green variegation in the centers of the leaves.
• ‘Harlequin.’ This is among the rarest of pothos cultivars, so be prepared to hunt and fork over serious money for ‘Harlequin.’ Some people believe it is simply a variation on ‘Manjula.’ Whether this is true or not, it’s a striking plant with big blocks of white on green leaves.

Another plant often called pothos isn’t really the same species. Still, Scindaspus pictus, also known as silver or satin pothos, look similar and provides another variegated option. It grows more slowly than true pothos, but it has green and silvery variegation.

Leggy indoor plants are a common complaint. Most plants require some maintenance, whether it be removing dead leaves or spent blooms, but how do you fix leggy plants? Just like many outdoor plants require pruning, some indoor plants, say a leggy pothos plant, need pruning. Read on to learn how to prune houseplants. 

Leggy Plants Indoors

There are a couple of reasons a plant might become leggy. Some plants, like the easy to grow pothos, are prone to growing and looking rather rangy. Luckily a leggy pothos plant is an easy fix; and you end up with pothos plants to share with friends. 

The other reason a plant may become leggy is because it is stretching to reach a light source. This results in long spaces between leaf nodes making the plant look a bit scraggly. If lack of light is the culprit, the scant leaves are often also light green because they can’t photosynthesize well. 

How to Prune Houseplants

Trimming houseplants can mean one of two things: training or grooming. Plants can be pinched or cut an inch (2.5 cm.) or so just above the node. This is done to produce a bushier, more compact plant, and is part of training your houseplant. 

Leggy vining indoor plants, however, should really be pruned. This involves cutting significantly more of the plant in order to make it compact and less rangy. Take a leggy pothos plant for instance. Using sterile shears remove 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) of the terminal or end growth just below a node or leaf joint. 

Pothos roots easily in a glass of water. Other types of cuttings such as coleus, geranium, begonia, ivy, and some type of philodendron should be placed in loose, moist potting soil. 

How to Fix Leggy Plants

As mentioned, some leggy plants are the result of struggling towards light. Obviously the thing to do here is to provide more light either by adding a plant light or moving the plant to an area in the home that has more light exposure. If adding light isn’t an option, look for low light plants like the aforementioned pothos. 

Those of us who keep houseplants usually have a pothos ivy in our collection, and often we have several of the low maintenance beauties. If you’ve added a new one recently, you may be looking for ways to make pothos fuller. Often, the newer plants have lots of long shoots with most of the leaves on them.

Growing New Pothos Vines

One way to make foliage grow in the pot is to clip the plant stems under a node to push growing energy to the nodes above. Let a leaf or two remain on what you’ve cut off. New pothos vines will sprout and eventually become longer shoots. If you continue the clipping process your pothos will grow more foliage from each node, but you must allow time for growth.

In the meantime, you can attempt a few other ways to prune and display pothos to make it more attractive. First, plant the stems you’ve removed. Repot the plant if that is on the agenda soon. Plant cuttings in bare areas of the container. Just put some rooting hormone on the cut ends and using a chopstick, push holes into the soil. Stick the cuttings into the holes and firm them up with the soil.

To turn your pothos into a bushier plant, provide it with the right care. Since pothos does not like direct sunlight, it may be hanging in a shady corner. To encourage growth overall, and from the nodes especially, locate it near a bright area in indirect sun. 

Stimulating growth on your pothos propagation is encouraged by fertilization. While feeding is not always necessary with this plant, houseplant food will help the plant grow and fill out more quickly. You can mix compost or fish emulsion in the soil. Use pelleted fertilizer or mix liquid houseplant food at half strength. 

Water before using liquid fertilizer to avoid burning the plant. Drench the plant when you water, then allow it to dry out. Check the soil a couple inches (5 cm.) down to make sure it is dry before watering again.

Getting Pothos to Branch

Cuttings may be rooted in water before planting. Some are more comfortable rooting cuttings in this manner and like to watch the roots develop. Plant water rooted cuttings into the soil before the roots are 3 inches (8 cm.).

Take cuttings from hanging stems if you like. This will provide another hanging strand lower on the plant and also provide cuttings for propagation. You are likely to have the pothos plant for years, as they rarely die off, so you will have many chances to clip and propagate shoots as it grows out.

Do pothos need fertilizer? These beautiful, easy-to-grow plants require little care and will even tolerate a certain amount of neglect. In fact, if you forget about feeding pothos, the plant will continue to grow. However, a little fertilizer will give the plant a boost. Here are a few tips on pothos fertilizer needs.

Feeding Pothos: Do Pothos Need Fertilizer?

Potting soil often comes with fertilizer pre-mixed, so if the soil is fresh, you won’t need to worry about feeding pothos for about six months. After that, regular feeding will replace depleted nutrients. 

What Is the Best Pothos Fertilizer? 

It isn’t necessary to use a special pothos plant food and any good quality, all-purpose fertilizer will work. 

Water-soluble fertilizer is easy to use and it’s difficult to make a mistake, however, the amount suggested on the label is usually too strong and may burn your plant. Take a look at recommendations provided by the manufacturer and then mix it to half strength. Mix the fertilizer in a watering can and use it to water your plants. One feeding of water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks is generally plenty. 

You can also use dry, granular, or powdered fertilizer. Read the label carefully, as the amount will vary depending on the size of the container and other factors. Be conservative, as the amount recommended is usually on the high side. Again, half-strength is a good rule of thumb. Never use dry fertilizer on dry soil. 

Some people like to use a slow-release fertilizer, which breaks down slowly and provides nutrients over a period of time. Typically, one application lasts three or four months. 

Understanding pothos fertilizer needs doesn’t have to be complicated, but there are a couple of basic things to remember:

1. Don’t overdo it. Too little fertilizer is always better than too much.
2. Feed your pothos when the plant is actively growing during spring and summer, and then give it a rest during fall and winter. Resume feeding pothos when the days are getting longer in late winter or early spring, beginning with a light application.

The green or marbled pothos plant, a popular selection for newbie gardeners, is toxic to pets, specifically cats and dogs. Epipremnum aureum is also known as golden pothos, devil’s ivy, and taro vine. No matter its name, pothos and pets don’t mix. 

Is Pothos Pet Friendly? Learn About Pothos’ Pet Toxicity

The offending toxins are insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which are found in the leaves and stems of pothos. When a pet bites or chews into the foliage, the crystals are released and can cause burning and irritation of the mouth, drooling, vomiting, decreased appetite, and difficulty swallowing. 

Any plant, even those labeled as non-toxic, has the potential to upset the inner workings of Phido, so take care to keep all plants away from pets. 

Pothos and Pets: Is Pothos Toxic to Pets?

Pothos is an easy-care plant, a favorite of office workers and touted as a great beginner plant. But is this happy plant poisonous to pets? Yes, pothos is toxic to cats and dogs if they chew on the leaves or stems.

If you have pets, you might consider a different plant, unless you can keep this plant out of reach of curious pets. High up on a shelf or on top of a china cabinet would work if the cat is not a jumper.

If you notice your pet has eaten part of a pothos plant, contact your veterinarian for instructions on what to do for your pet, or whether it needs an emergency visit. If so, bring along a sample of the plant. 

Safer Plants for Pets

If you will be worried about your pet’s safety, you may want to give away your pothos and start a toxin-free plant gallery. 

The ASPCA categorizes a huge list of plants into toxic and non-toxic lists. In addition, this University of California extension publication gives an extensive list of garden plants and their level of toxicity. 

Visit Our Complete Houseplant Guide

There’s a reason why pothos are a favorite among indoor gardeners; these lovely plants are dependable, easy to grow, and thrive in a range of growing conditions. If you provide the proper light for pothos, your plant will look beautiful for years. Understanding your pothos plant light needs isn’t complicated. Here’s what you need to know about pothos and light.

Light for Pothos: Pothos Lighting Requirements

Pothos plants do best in moderate light. Too little light, or too much, can affect the appearance and growth rate of your plant.

Too much light can scorch the plant and cause the beautiful, bright green leaves to turn pale yellow. If you want to put your plant in front of a bright window, just be sure the pothos is a few feet away. You can also filter the light with a sheer curtain. 

Not enough light can cause the colors to fade. Plants with gold, white, or pale yellow variegations are likely to turn solid, pale green. Although pothos can tolerate relatively low light, it will do better with a few hours of moderate light every day. 

Artificial light isn’t suitable for a lot of plants, but fortunately, artificial light for pothos works very well. If you work in an office, pothos is a good choice. 

Fluorescent tubes, preferably cool white or full spectrum, provide plenty of light for pothos. You can also use horticultural grow lights, which fit in standard fluorescent fixtures. However, most growers think regular fluorescent tubes are just as good and cost less. 

Incandescent lights help and may work in a pinch, but they work better when used to supplement available light or fluorescent bulbs. Remember that incandescent bulbs emit quite a bit of heat, so be sure to place the plant a safe distance from the bulbs. 

If you use artificial light, turn the lights off at night as pothos lighting requirements include a resting period. Rotate the plant every so often to promote even growth on all sides.

Are pothos and philodendron the same? Although pothos and philodendrons are distant cousins, they are actually two different plants. If you think the two plants look alike, you aren’t alone.

Pothos and philodendrons have many similarities, and figuring out if your indoor plant is pothos or philodendron can be a little tricky. However, they also have a few distinct differences. If you’re wondering about the difference between the two, the following information should help you sort it out.

Pothos vs. Philodendron: Are Pothos And Philodendron the Same?

Leaf shape: Philodendron leaves are distinctly heart-shaped, with a pronounced curve at the widest part of the leaf. The leaves, which grow from flexible, thin stems have a long, pointy tip that resembles a spout.

Pothos plant leaves tend to be larger and they lack philodendron’s dramatic heart shape. Pothos leaf tips are shorter and less pointed.

Leaf texture and finish: Philodendron leaves are thinner with a smooth, velvety feel. Pothos leaves are thicker and slightly waxy, with a defined ridge down the center.

Aerial roots: Pothos and philodendron both have aerial roots—above ground roots that allow the vines to anchor to surfaces like trees, walls, or rocks. Pothos develops wide, stubby, aerial roots with a single root to a node. Philodendron’s aerial roots also grow from nodes, but they consist of clusters of smaller, thinner roots.

Growth habits: Pothos and philodendrons are hardy plants that thrive with minimal care, although pothos tend to be slightly tougher. Both grow in semi-shady conditions, but philodendrons will eventually get leggy without sufficient sunlight. Pothos plants are also slightly more drought-tolerant than philodendron and can get by with a bit more neglect.

Propagation: When it comes to propagating new pothos or philodendron plants, both are a cinch to propagate via cuttings in water or soil and both root quickly.

Pothos is an extremely forgiving houseplant often found growing and thriving under the fluorescent lights of office buildings. What about growing pothos outdoors? Can you grow pothos in the garden? In fact, yes, an outdoor pothos plant is a possibility. Keep reading to learn about growing pothos outside and outdoor pothos care. 

Can you Grow Pothos in the Garden? 

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is an understory vine native to the Solomon Islands. In this tropical environment, pothos can reach 40 feet (12 m.) in length. Its genus name is derived from the Greek ‘epi’ which means upon and ‘premon’ or ‘trunk’ referring to its habit of clambering up tree trunks.

It's logical to assume that you can grow pothos in the garden, which is correct provided you live in USDA zones 10 through 12. Otherwise, an outdoor pothos plant can be container grown and taken out for the warmer months and then grown as a houseplant as temps cool. 

How to Grow Pothos Outside

If you work in or have been in a commercial office building, it is likely you have seen pothos winding around walls, file cabinets, and the like. Pothos, also referred to as Devil’s Ivy, is extremely tolerant of fluorescent lighting making them ideal for these situations. 

Since pothos is native to a tropical region as an understory plant, it needs warm temperatures and a shade to mostly shaded location such as an area with minimal dappled morning light. Outdoor pothos plants prefer temperatures of 70 to 90 degrees F. (21-32 C.) with high humidity. 

Pothos is extremely adaptable to all soil types.

Outdoor Pothos Care

Pothos in the garden can be allowed to climb up trees and trellises or just meander along the garden floor. Its size can be left unchecked or delayed with pruning. 

Pothos soil should be allowed to dry between watering, do not allow the plant to stand in water. Allow only the top 2 inches (5 cm.) of soil to dry before watering again. Overwatering is the one area in which pothos are picky. If you see yellowing of leaves the plant is being overwatered. If you see wilting or brown foliage, water more often. 

Both indoor and outdoor pothos plants are easy to care for with few disease or pest issues. That said, pothos plants may be susceptible to mealybugs or scale but a cotton ball dipped in alcohol or a treatment of horticultural spray should eradicate the pest in no time. 

A healthy pothos growing in the garden adds a tropical feel to the landscape plus an outdoor pothos may have another benefit lacking by those grown indoors; some plants may flower and produce berries, a rarity amongst pothos houseplants.

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is famous for being nearly indestructible. Put it in a dark corner? Forget to water it? Accidentally break part off while you're trying to move it? (I'm guilty of that one). No matter what you throw at it, pothos is usually able to power through. That includes growing it with no soil at all.

Pothos is highly adaptable to "hydroculture," or living in nothing but water. As long as it gets supplemental nutrients, it'll be just fine. Here's how to grow a pothos in water only.

Getting Ready

All you need to start growing pothos in water is a healthy pothos vine, a glass container, and all-purpose liquid fertilizer.

Make sure you can get a cutting from your pothos that's 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) long if you cut just below a node, and has 3 to 4 leaves on it.

Your container should be deep enough that roots can comfortably develop in it. These cutting vases from Amazon work great. There's nothing wrong with using an opaque container, but you won't be able to see the roots developing, and that's half the fun!

Looking to get started? Costa Farms is selling 4 live pothos plants for $20 on Amazon right now!

How to Grow Pothos in Water

1. Cut a length of pothos vine with three or four nodes.
2. Remove the leaves on the lower part of the vine, since any leaves left under the water will rot.
3. Fill the container with water. Tap water is fine, but if your water is heavily chlorinated, let it sit out for a day or two before you add your cutting. This allows the chemicals to evaporate.
4. Add a few drops of liquid fertilizer to the water. Check the recommendations on the package to determine the mix, but remember that when it comes to fertilizer, too little is always better than too much.
5. Place the pothos vine in the water, making sure no leaves are submerged. Set it in a place with bright, indirect light. Do not put it in full sun!

Caring for Pothos in Water

Place the vine in bright, indirect light. Although pothos vines do well in relatively low light, too much intense sunlight can stunt growth or cause the leaves to turn brown or yellow.

Replace the water in the container every two to three weeks. Don't just top off the container – dump it out and replace it completely. Oxygen in water depletes over time, and this will give your pothos a much needed oxygen boost.

If algae develops on the glass, scrub it off with a cloth or old toothbrush. Add fertilizer to the water every four to six weeks. This fertilizer from Amazon is developed specifically for pothos vines.

Prune Pothos For A Fuller, More Fabulous Plant

Pothos is an attractive and low-maintenance vining plant, traits that make it exceptionally popular as a houseplant. It comes in different varieties with glossy, heart-shaped leaves that can be green to gold or variegated. As a houseplant it’s forgiving and easy to care for, and knowing how to prune pothos ensures you maintain it as a healthy, attractive, and full houseplant.

Benefits of Pruning Pothos

There are many good reasons to prune a vining plant like pothos. Regular trimming keeps these plants healthy. It also allows you to control their shape and growth habit. Pothos can become leggy, especially during winter, as the vines grow long and spindly in an attempt to reach weak, low light.

By pruning your pothos regularly, you can maintain a reasonable size, create a bushier growth habit, or encourage new growth. You can let some vines grow very long while trimming back others for a fuller appearance.

Best Time to Prune Pothos

You can perform light maintenance pruning on pothos any time of year. The best time for more heavy trimming is during the growing season, from spring to early fall. This gives the plant time to produce new growth. If you prune it heavily during the winter, it will take longer to regrow.

How to Prune Pothos

Pruning any plant can seem intimidating or overwhelming the first time, but trimming pothos is really very simple. Once you understand how and where to cut pothos vines, it’s easy to prune it to get the desired shape and size.

How to Trim Pothos Back

If you have a large pothos that is getting out of control, trimming it back is a good way to manage the size and shape. Make cuts with a clean, sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears. Cut vines just above a node, the point at which leaves emerge. New growth will appear at these nodes after you make the cut.

To manage a large pothos, you can trim each vine back as much or as little as you want as long as the cut is above a node, and you leave at least one pair of leaves. You can cut a vine back as much as two inches (5 cm) from the soil surface and still get new growth.

How to Make Pothos Fuller

Leggy growth is common in pothos plants that haven’t been trimmed in a while. This happens as vines grow long and develop leaves only at the ends that are reaching for light. When you cut a vine above a node, two new vines will develop from that spot. This adds to the fullness of the plant. Make strategic cuts to trim back leggy vines and get more fullness wherever you feel the plant needs it.

How Often Should You Prune Pothos?

It’s generally a good idea to trim pothos plants at least once a year. You can also remove leggy vines or any yellowed, dying, or damaged growth at any time of year.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where Do You Cut Pothos for Propagation?

You can use your trimmings to propagate new pothos plants. Cut below a node with a leaf, and then cut the top part of the vine off so you have one node on the stem with a leaf or two. Place the cut stem in water and wait for new roots to grow.

How Do You Fix Leggy Pothos?

Cut back leggy vines to encourage additional growth closer to the base of the plant. This will result in fuller growth and less legginess.

See Our Complete Guide to Houseplants

Office workers and others who want a plant in low and artificial light situations can't do better than to purchase a Pothos plant. These tropical plants are native to the Solomon Islands and part of the understory forest. Also called Devil's Ivy, problems with Pothos plants are rare but occasionally include distorted leaf growth. Stunted leaves on Pothos may be related to nutrient deficiencies, low light, or insect infestations. It is important to investigate all possible situations to correct the problem and get this easy-to-grow plant back to health.

Pothos Leaf Growth

The Pothos plant is a notoriously hardy specimen that can thrive even when neglected. Like all plants, however, it requires regular water, sun or artificial light, proper nutrition, and air circulation. Stunted Pothos plants can be suffering from a host of issues, both cultural or pest derived. The most common causes are fairly easy to fix and even a novice gardener can save the plant. Pothos plants have heart-shaped, glossy green or variegated, waxy leaves. Young Pothos leaf growth is slightly different than mature leaves. These juvenile leaves are smooth and several inches (8 cm.) long. Mature leaves can get up to 3 feet (91 cm.) in length and develop into oval or heart shapes, often with holes at the midrib. Most indoor plants do not achieve leaves of that size, but leaves still develop similarly. Foliar problems with Pothos plants are indicated by stunted leaf growth, poor color, and are often wilted. Overall health may be affected and the plant will fail to produce new growth. Adequate light and fertilizer will usually enhance foliar production.

Pothos Problems with Water

Too little water is a common cause of stunted Pothos plants. These tropical plants require filtered light, high humidity, and grow best in temperatures of 70 to 90 degrees F. (21-32 C.). All plant growth is diminished in temperatures above or below those listed. Let plants dry out only in the top 2 inches (5 cm.) of soil before irrigating. If the plant dries out to the roots, growth will retard and the overall health of the plant will suffer, which can trigger disease and pest outbreaks. Excess watering is also common in the list of Pothos problems but does not cause stunting. Instead, you are more likely to end up with root rot. It is important to water heavily and allow water to leach through the soil to prevent buildup of fertilizer, which can diminish plant health. Fertilize only during the growing season and just every other month with a diluted formula.

Insects and Stunted Leaves on Pothos

You might not consider insect pests a culprit, but their feeding activity can cause malformed leaves and leaf drop. Mealybugs and scale are the most common insect Pothos problems. Mealybugs look like small balls of cotton while scale are dark colored bumps on stems and leaves. Their feeding activity reduces plant sap and redirects nutrients from leaves. In high infestations, the leaves will become distorted and stunted. Use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to kill the pests. This may seem tedious but if you check the plant weekly, you will likely only find a couple of the insects, making the plant easier to treat. In high infestations, take the plant outdoors or to the bathtub and rinse off the mealybugs. Use a horticultural oil spray to completely kill all the invaders.

Yellow Leaves On Pothos Plants: Causes & Fixes

If you have yellow pothos leaves you’re likely wondering like I often have: Why are my pothos leaves turning yellow? There are a number of reasons for yellow pothos leaves, among them over or under watering, insufficient light, temperature and disease. In order to remedy yellow leaves on pothos, you first need to identify the cause. 

Why is My Pothos Turning Yellow?

A pothos with yellowing leaves is a sign that something is stressing the plant. In order to solve the issue you need to identify the cause. It might be something as simple as too much water or as sinister as a disease. 

Common Causes of Yellow Pothos Leaves

Some of the more common causes of yellowing foliage on pothos may also be signs of other underlying issues. They may also indicate a combination of problems with your plant that could require a multi-faceted approach to heal the plant. But it may not be reflecting a real problem. Read on to determine what's happening.

Old Leaves

Old leaves on plants often turn yellow. In nature, this is simply a sign that the leaf has matured as much as it is going to. It no longer has a function or is needed for photosynthesis so it yellows and then drops from the plant. This is called natural leaf shedding and may happen even on the evergreen foliage of a climbing pothos plant. 

Deficient Nitrogen

Another reason old leaves turn yellow may be from lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is moved from older more mature leaves to newly developing leaves when there isn’t enough nitrogen in the potting soil. This usually happens in the spring which means March is usually the time to start fertilizing houseplants. Use a slow release or water-soluble at a quarter to half strength with each watering. Stop fertilizing in late summer.

Overwatering

Overwatering is another reason for pothos turning yellow. The leaves will yellow and the stems turn black when a pothos is overwatered. You may also see blackening of leaf margins or tips when the plant is overwatered (or underwatered).  

Overwatered pothos are also prone to root rot wherein the roots will either be nonexistent or brown and slimy. 

Underwatering and Excess Fertilizer

Just as overwatering pothos can result in yellow foliage, so too can underwatering. In this case, the foliage may also wilt and curl combined with the yellowing. 

Pothos should be watered every 1-2 weeks or whenever the top 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of the soil is dry to the touch. The plant will need more water when in brighter light and less in low light.

Excess fertilizer can also result in yellowing leaves and blackened leaf margins or tips. Too much fertilizer causes a buildup of salts in the soil which can discolor the foliage. 

Lack of Sunlight

Pothos is an easy-care houseplant perfect for the new plant owner however it does have its foibles. Pothos does best when in filtered light and doesn’t tolerate direct sunlight. Too little sun exposure can cause the leaves to turn yellow. 

Too Cold

As a liana found from Southeast Asia to New Guinea and into Australia, pothos plants prefer a temperature of between 70-90 F (21-32 C) with high humidity. Any colder, and pothos foliage will begin to yellow and drop. That’s why pothos is grown as a houseplant in all USDA zones, except for 10-12 where it is warm enough for the plant to grow outside. 

Diseases

Both bacterial leaf spot and Pythium root rot can cause yellowing leaves on pothos plants. Bacterial leaf spot results in water-soaked lesions with yellow halos rapidly spreading across the foliage. Pythium root rot causes yellow leaves to die back and mushy, black stems. 

Bacterial leaf spot is the result of overhead watering while Pythium root rot is due to contaminated cuttings or potting mix. There is no cure for bacterial leaf spot and infected plants should be discarded. Those infected with Pythium can be treated with a fungicide and repotted in a pathogen-free potting medium.

Ethylene and Pothos

Ethylene is a natural gas emitted from some ripening fruits as well as decomposing plant detritus. It can also be found in greenhouse heaters that are malfunctioning. It can even be found in shipping containers. The result is foliage that turns yellow and then brown. The entire pothos may look wilted even if it has sufficient water. 

Inspect greenhouse heaters and provide adequate ventilation in both the greenhouse and when shipping the plants. Avoid shipping pothos with mixed shipments of produce, floral or foliage products. Ethylene treatments can be applied to multi-crop systems. 

Know Your Pothos Cultivar

There are several varieties of pothos, some of which have variegated leaves of yellow and green, or of marbled white and green. One variation, “Neon,” has bright yellow leaves, while others have large beautiful splashes of white.

Should You Cut Yellow Leaves Off Pothos?

There is no reason to prune pothos although it is extremely tolerant of pruning if you wish to retard its size. Yellow leaves as well as dead or dried leaves should generally be removed since they are more likely due to a minor problem with the plant. 

If you do cut yellowed leaves and suspect a disease, remember there may be no cure and the entire plant might have to be discarded. It may be better to do this at the outset rather than risk infecting other houseplants. If you do decide to cut yellow leaves that may be infected, be sure to sterilize the pruning shears after use.

Whether you’re a brand new plant parent or have years of experience, there are many benefits to learning how to propagate pothos. These classic vining indoor plants are attractive and carefree, and propagating them is a fun way to expand your plant collection for free.

You can also share propagated plants with friends or family to help them start their own indoor plant collection. Once you learn how easy it is to propagate and care for pothos, you'll be cloning plants constantly.

I'll walk you through step-by-step how to propagate pothos plants. Plus, I'll share my expert insights into the best times and methods to grow more of these lovely, low-maintenance houseplants.

Best Time to Propagate Pothos

The best time to propagate pothos is when plants are just waking up in spring. However, you can propagate a pothos anytime during the growing season, which is spring through early fall.

During late fall and winter, pothos plants enter dormancy and their growth slows. This makes it more difficult to propagate plants, though it is still possible. For the highest chances of success, propagate your pothos during the growing season instead.

Best Methods for Propagating Pothos

The best ways to propagate pothos plants are by cuttings, division, or layering. For immediate results, division is the best method. As soon as you divide and repot your pothos, you have a new plant to share or to expand your own collection.

Layering is an easy way to sprout new pothos plants, but it takes longer than division. It's also the least common way to propagate pothos, but it's just as simple as taking cuttings.

Which brings us to the most common way to grow new pothos plants. Taking cuttings and rooting them in either water or soil is the way most home growers propagate houseplants. Though it's not as immediate as dividing, it's a fun and easy project to try at home. I'll walk you through how to propagate pothos cuttings step-by-step.

Pothos Propagation Essentials

How to Propagate Pothos by Cuttings

Propagating pothos via cuttings is the most popular method. In addition to giving you more plants to grow or share, taking cuttings can make a pothos fuller as well. Just follow these three steps for cuttings that are ready to root into new plants:

1. Find a node.

For this method of propagation, you need stem cuttings that are 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) long and have two to four leaves. Choose healthy looking stems and find a node, where the leaf meets the stem.

Nodes are where new leaves and aerial roots emerge. Just look for a bulge near where a leaf meets the stem.

2. Make the cut.

Place a clean pair of scissors or pruners just above the node at a 45-degree angle and cut using a clean, sharp pair of pruners, like these ones from Fiskars.

Remove any leaves within a few inches of the cut end. This section of stem is the cutting you will use to propagate new plants. There may already be some aerial roots present near the node. These will grow and form your new plant's root system.

3. Prepare cuttings for rooting.

You can dip the cut end with rooting hormone to jumpstart growth, but this typically works better when rooting plants in soil. You can get rooting hormone from Amazon to give cuttings a boost.

Now that your stems are ready to grow, put your plant cuttings in water or plant them directly into soil to start forming roots. I'll walk you through both options below.

Rooting Pothos in Water

To root pothos in water, place stems in a jar or other vessel, like this propagation station from Amazon, filled with room temperature water. The node where you cut should be below the water line. Don’t let leaves dip into the water or they will rot and potentially kill the cutting.

Place your cuttings in a location with bright indirect light. Change the water every couple of days. When 1 to 2 inches (3-5 cm) of roots form, plant pothos cuttings in a container with well-draining potting soil. This indoor plant potting mix from Miracle-Gro is a great option for strong growth.

Rooting Pothos in Soil

To root cuttings in soil, prepare a clean container with a well-draining, pre-moistened potting mix. Dab a pencil into the soil to create a hole for the cutting. Place the cutting into the hole and firm the soil around it until the cutting stands upright on its own.

To help cuttings start to form roots faster, increase the humidity around the cutting. You can do this by enclosing the container in a plastic bag or topping it with an inverted glass jar or humidity dome, which you can get on Amazon.

As moisture collects, open the bag or vent the dome to allow for air circulation, then reclose. Add water as needed to keep the soil moist, but not wet.

When new growth is visible, that means roots have formed. You can check for roots by lightly tugging on the cutting. If it resists, there are roots growing under the soil.

When rooting plants from cuttings you can also use perlite, vermiculite, or coarse sand first and then transfer to potting soil when roots have formed.

How to Propagate Pothos by Division

The best time to propagate a plant by division is when it is coming out of dormancy in late winter or early spring. Have your new containers and potting soil, like this organic option from Amazon, ready before you begin the division process.

Remove the entire root ball from the pothos' current container. Gently separate stems by the roots and repot your pothos in the new containers at the same soil level they were before. Water plants and continue with normal care.

How to Propagate Pothos by Layering

You can also root pothos vines by layering or laying stems on soil to root and make a new plant. If there is room in your current pothos container you can do it in the same pot. Otherwise, you can place a stem in another container filled with moist potting soil.

Bend part of the stem into the soil and cover with soil, leaving several inches of stem exposed. Once roots form, cut the stem from the parent plant and grow as usual.

Check Out Our Complete Guide to Propagating Houseplants

Frequently Asked Questions

The pothos plant is considered by many to be a great way to get started caring for houseplants. Since pothos care is easy and undemanding, this lovely plant is an easy way to add some green to your home.

Whether you're a first-time plant parent or have been growing for years, understanding the specific needs of each plant in your collection is essential. While pothos are extremely easy to grow and one of the best low-maintenance houseplants, they still require specialized care.

Here's everything you need to know about pothos plant care to grow lush, busy vines that will fill your home with verdant beauty for years to come.

Quick Pothos Facts

Outdoors in USDA zones 10-12, pothos makes an excellent ground cover. But indoors, it is one of the most popular houseplants in the United States, thanks in part to the fact that caring for a pothos plant is a piece of cake.

Shop Pothos Plants

Pothos Plant Care

Basic pothos care is very easy. These plants enjoy a wide range of environments. They do well in bright, indirect light as well as low light, and can be grown in dry soil or in vases of water. They will thrive in nutrient rich soil, but do almost as well in nutrient poor soil.

Soil

Some plants are picky about soil, but pothos is not one of them. Pothos plants grow perfectly well in ordinary soil as long as it drains well. That means that loamy or sandy soil will work, while clay will not. If the soil is constantly saturated, pothos will die.

Light

Pothos plants make a great addition to your bathroom or office because they can tolerate low light. While pothos likes a wide variety of light conditions, they do not do well in direct sunlight.

That brings us to the second absolute for pothos: no direct sun. When the lovely heart-shaped leaves get direct sunlight, especially in the afternoon, they brown and die. Otherwise, pothos is flexible about sunlight requirements. A responsible pothos owner can put the plant in total shade location and it will continue to thrive for some time. Ideally, light shade or dappled sun are the best options.

If your pothos is highly variegated – particularly variegated with white – they may either not grow as well in low light or may lose their variegation if the light is too low. Only the green parts of the leaves can make energy for the plant, so it must be able to get enough light for energy or its growth will slow or the leaves will compensate for the lack of light by becoming more green.

Water

More than a few plant owners confuse low care with no care, so take note that pothos has a few absolute rules. For one, it requires water and grows best during spring and summer when the soil is kept consistently moist.

Take the drainage requirement to heart though, since a pothos sitting in soggy soil is not a happy plant. However, pothos can be grown in water or in dry soil.

Fertilizing

What about fertilizer? Some experts suggest fertilizing a pothos every other month during the growing season, some every three months year round. This will help it grow more quickly. But pothos plants are naturally fast growers, and they will do perfectly well and live a long time without any fertilizer at all.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Yet another great feature about these philodendron look-alikes? They are virtually pest free. You may find the occasional mealybug or a few scales, but this is the exception and not the rule.

Overwatering or planting in clay soil will result in root rot, while direct afternoon sun will burn the lovely leaves.

Word of warning: Don’t eat a pothos plant. Don’t even nibble! All parts of this plant from leaves to roots are poisonous to humans, dogs, cats and livestock.

Repotting

Most plants can outgrow their containers over time, so it is no surprise that you may need to repot as part of your care of pothos plants. Some experts recommend annual repotting, but our staff has a pothos plant that's lived in the same container for years with no complaints.

If you do decide that pothos repotting is required, you can opt to keep the same container and root prune instead. The plant gets more soil in either case.

Propagation

If you have a pothos, you'll have no trouble obtaining more plants. Pothos roots easily from cuttings in water, so you can make as many plants as you like just by snipping and rooting stem cuttings.

Cuttings can be taken from a mother plant, rooted in water, and kept kept growing in water indefinitely. This is convenient for placing a pothos plant in hard to reach areas in a jug of water where it can remain untouched as long as water remains in the jug.

On the opposite end, pothos can also be started in soil and will tolerate moderate periods of dry soil with little effect to the plant. Oddly enough, cuttings started in one growing medium have a hard time switching to the other.

So a pothos plant started in soil has a hard time thriving if moved to water, and a pothos cutting started in water will not do very well in soil, especially if it has spent a long period of time growing in water.

Varieties

A number of interesting pothos varieties have been developed and are available in commerce. These include the extremely popular 'Golden Pothos', with its yellow variegated leaves. But that’s far from all.

You can find varieties with dark green leaves like ‘Jade’, and varieties with all yellow or yellow-green leaves, like ‘Neon’ or ‘Lime’ respectively. 'Marble Queen' is particularly lovely since both foliage and stems are marbled with white.'

Frequently Asked Questions

Though pothos poisoning will make you very sick, it is unlikely to lead to death. That being said, if you suspect pothos poisoning, you should seek medical or veterinary attention immediately.

Pothos Essentials