Picking out a Halloween pumpkin from a store or farm is such fun, so just imagine how exciting it will be to grow your own! And early June is the exact right moment to sow seed if you want your pumpkins to mature just in time to carve jack o’lanterns for 31 October.

Growing pumpkins for Halloween is straightforward, even if you’re a beginner gardener, and everything you need to know to get great results is right here. You can direct sow seeds straight into the ground where your plants are to grow, too, so there’s no faffing around with hardening off seedlings. And while it’s true that pumpkins are typically big plants, there are compact varieties small enough to grow in any garden, even in a pot.

As long as you prepare the planting hole properly, you’re diligent about watering and feeding, and not dead-set on growing record-breakingly big fruit, then it’s fine for vines to trail over gravel or hard surfaces rather than soil, too – so you don’t need to give up too much garden space.

And just wait till you see those first pumpkins starting to swell – you’ll be as happy as a kid out trick or treating! Ready to grow your own pumpkin for Halloween? Here’s what to do…

1. Choose Your Pumpkin Variety

These are my recommendations for the best pumpkin varieties to grow at home.

Best Pumpkin for Easy Carving

The classic variety to grow to carve jack o’lanterns is – you guessed it! – ‘Jack O Lantern’. This is a reliable grower and you can expect good-sized, well-rounded vibrant orange fruit of around 18-24 pounds. The vine grows 12-18 inches tall and spreads to 72 inches, and takes 110 days to mature. The skin is straightforward to carve and the flesh is super-tasty in a pumpkin pie, so don’t throw away what you scoop out.

Best Pumpkin For a Fun Jack o'Lantern

This ghostly pale variety is ‘Lumina’ and they’re fun to paint as well as carve. Or why not press a few flowers over the summer then glue them onto the pumpkin skin for beautiful table decor? 'Lumina' pumpkins are smaller, weighing around 10lb, and faster to grow, maturing in 80-90 days. This vine also grows 12-18 inches tall and spreads to 72 inches, and has tasty flesh.

Best Pumpkin for a Small Garden or a Pot

‘Cherokee Bush’ has a bushier habit, growing 14-24 inches high and, though vines spread to 48-58 inches, it doesn’t sprawl like some other varieties. That makes it an excellent pumpkin to grow in a pot, though it’s going to need to be a big container such as this resin half-barrel planter from Lowe’s. If you’re growing a few plants, then a cheaper option is to use fabric grow bags such as these from Amazon, or a small raised bed like this, also from Amazon. Whatever you choose to grow it in, capacity needs to be a minimum of 15 gallons, preferably more.

Maturing in 100-110 days, ‘Cherokee Bush’ grows lots of smaller pumpkins around 5-8 pounds, and the yellow flesh is tasty in a pie.

Best Pumpkin for Unusual Fall Decor

‘Sanchez’ has wonderfully lumpy skin so it’s a super witchy, warty addition to Halloween decor. Pumpkins grow to 4-6 inches across but you’ll get plenty as this vine grows to 12-18 inches high and spreads 120-144 inches. It matures in 95-105 days.

With long vines and small fruit, ‘Sanchez’ can also be grown vertically in a raised bed planter with a sturdy trellis such as this from Amazon. You’ll need to tie in the vine to the trellis – cut-to-length reusable Velcro plant ties, available from Amazon, are the easiest option. You may also need to support the fruit, and retired pantyhose is the very best material for this job!

2. Pick a Sheltered Sunny Spot

Pumpkin plants need warmth and sun, so choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunshine a day and is sheltered from cold winds.

Make sure you have enough room for the vines to spread, though it’s fine to coil them around and keep them in place with bamboo canes pushed into the ground. Pumpkin vines do put down additional roots wherever the stems touch soil, to access additional nutrients and water, but as long as you provide a good supply of those, it’s okay to let them stretch over gravel or paving. Just watch that water doesn’t pool beneath or stems and leaves get scorched by the heat from paving, though sliding a plank of wood underneath easily solves such issues.

3. Prepare the Soil

Pumpkins are hungry plants and while they need plenty of moisture, they hate to sit in soggy soil. Ensure your soil is both fertile and well-draining by digging a hole that’s around a foot wide and deep and mixing compost – homemade or shop-bought such as this Life Cycle Organic Compost from Amazon – into the soil.

If you’re growing your pumpkins in a pot or planter, fill with any multi-purpose potting mix such as Back to the Roots All-Purpose Potting Mix, available from Amazon.

4. Sow Seeds

Now we’re in June, the soil temperature is warm enough to sow seeds directly into the ground. Pumpkin seeds are big and easy to handle, so simply push them into the soil, around an inch deep. They do have a tendency to rot, so sowing them on their side will help prevent this.

Sow two or three seeds for each plant you want to grow, keep moist and, once they sprout in a week or so, carefully pull out the weakest so you’re left with the strongest seedling. Do pay attention to planting distances recommended on the seed packet as these are big plants.

Pumpkin seeds need temperatures of at least 60°F to germinate so, if you live in a colder zone or have an exposed garden, staking plastic cloches such as these from Amazon over helps keep conditions cozy. You can make your own by upcycling 2-litre clear plastic bottles, cutting off the bases and pushing your homespun cloches into the soil.

5. Protect From Pests

Slugs and snails love to snack on juicy young pumpkin plants so because you’re sowing directly outdoors, you need to have some protection in place. I find the most effective method is to provide food that these slimy critters like even more, and set out cucumber slices to catch them.

Squash vine borers and cucumber beetles are also a threat, and the best way to guard against these is a floating plant cover such as this from Amazon. You’ll need to remove this once your plant starts flowering to allow bees to pollinate the blooms, so fruit can set.

6. Water Well

Unsurprisingly, these big plants need plenty of water. It’s important to water the soil rather than getting leaves wet, so a handy aid is to sink a plant pot into the ground alongside the spot you sowed your seeds. Direct the hose into this when watering and moisture will be delivered straight to where it’s needed most. This also helps you know just where the plant center is, as that can get confusing once there's a lot of foliage.

Mulching the soil will help to conserve moisture and keeps out weeds that will compete for water. Use homemade compost or a natural mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch, available from Amazon, and keep it away from the central stem to avoid rotting.

7. Feed Plants in a Container

If roots have restricted access to nutrients in a planter, then they’ll need feeding. The time to start feeding is when you first spot baby pumpkins starting to swell at the base of flowers. Don’t worry if you get a few flowers first that don’t turn into pumpkins. Pumpkin plants grow male and female flowers. It’s the male flowers that appear first on long thin stems, followed by female blooms closer to the vine – and it’s these females that will grow into pumpkins once bees have transferred pollen over from the male flowers.

Feed with a water-soluble liquid plant food that’s high in potassium, such as this pumpkin fertilizer from Amazon, every two weeks. There’s no need to feed pumpkin plants growing in the ground as long as you prepared the soil well, and aren’t trying to grow enormous fruits.

8. Care for the Fruit

Pumpkins sitting directly on damp soil are likely to rot, so place a piece of wood, a tile or a nest of straw beneath them if necessary. These fruit need plenty of sun to ripen so, once pumpkins reach full size, remove any leaves that are shading them.

9. Know When Your Pumpkins are Ready to Harvest

Your pumpkins are ready to harvest when their skin has lost its sheen and hardened, so press a fingernail into the skin to test: if you can scratch the fruit, leave it to ripen a while longer. Tap the fruit with your knuckles, too – a ripe pumpkin will sound hollow.

As long as you keep the stem intact when you harvest your pumpkin, it will keep well, so don't worry about harvesting early. Bring your homegrown pumpkins indoors to a sunny greenhouse or conservatory and let them cure for a couple of weeks, and the skin will harden further so they can be stored for up to six months.

And you know what that means, don't you? You can have homegrown pumpkins for Christmas as well as Halloween!

Halloween is right around the corner, which means you’re probably gearing up to carve a jack-o-lantern. Or, like me, you did it last weekend, and now you’re biting your nails wondering if it’s going to last until the big day.

That’s because you, also like me, probably have a yard overrun with squirrels. They’ve been fighting for a taste of your garden all summer, and you swear you’ve spotted them eyeing the jack-o-lantern on your porch, looking to take one more bite out of your dreams before winter.

To make matters worse, the elements are probably also hitting your poor little pumpkin, filling it up with rain and exploding it into fungal blooms. Luckily, there’s a simple item you can use to drive away the rodents, and also tamp down the mold.

Why Peppermint is the Perfect Pumpkin Protector

Enter peppermint essential oil. Peppermint oil is perfect because it addresses both problems that befall decorative pumpkins: rodents and decay. If you’re an aromatherapy fan, you may already have it in your arsenal. If not, you can pick it up on Amazon.

Rodents have incredibly sensitive noses, and peppermint, in case you haven’t noticed, has a really strong smell to it. But while we like the scent, rodents find it overwhelming. If your jack-o-lantern is giving off that strong menthol smell, squirrels won’t want to go anywhere near it, let alone munch on it.

On top of that, peppermint oil actually has minor antifungal and antibacterial properties. This, especially if you pair it with another natural protectant, will keep your Halloween pumpkin looking fresh far longer than if you just leave it to nature.

How to Make DIY Peppermint Spray for Pumpkins

Don’t spray undiluted peppermint essential oil on your pumpkin. For one thing, it’ll get expensive fast! For another, there’s a chance it could discolor the skin of the pumpkin. Instead, mix it up following this recipe.

• 1 cup water
• 15 drops peppermint essential oil
• 1 tsp dish soap

Mix it all up in a spray bottle like this on on Amazon. Don’t skip out on the dish soap! This acts as an emulsifier, meaning it allows the oil and water to mix together. Leave it out, and you’ll be stuck with globs of oil floating on the top of your water.

Make sure you’ve got peppermint essential oil and not peppermint extract, which is for cooking.

Shake it up vigorously before each use.

How to Apply Peppermint Essential Oil Spray to Pumpkins

If Your Pumpkin is Uncarved

1. Hold the bottle several inches away from the surface and coat it evenly.
2. Go back and spray again around the stem and the base. These are weak spots where critters are more likely to sniff around.

If Your Pumpkin is Carved

1. Spray the outside of the pumpkin like you would if it were uncarved.
2. Lightly spray the entire interior. Don’t skip the bottom of the lid!
3. Spray along all carved edges. If it’s exposed flesh, it needs a coat.
4. Let the pumpkin air dry for at least 10 minutes before replacing the lid or putting a light inside.

The peppermint smell will naturally fade over time. To keep your pumpkin protected, re-apply the oil solution every few days, or immediately after rain.

Keep It Natural

A lot of sources recommend soaking or spraying your jack-o-lantern in bleach. Don’t do this! Bleach is extremely harmful to wildlife. Even if you don’t have critters chewing on your pumpkin now, eventually it will end up in the compost or as a snack for local animals.

If you want an extra layer of protection against fungus and mold, disinfect your pumpkin with white vinegar, which you can get on Amazon or your local grocery store. Mix up a solution of one part vinegar with three parts water and spray it over all the surfaces (inside and out) of your jack-o-lantern. (If you haven’t carved your pumpkin, just spray it on the outside). This will work with the peppermint to seriously inhibit the growth of microbes on your pumpkin.

I have a special affinity for pumpkins. Maybe it’s because I’m a fall baby or because I love making pumpkin pie from scratch, but there’s just something about those cute orange gourds. They’re one of my favorite vegetables to grow (and turn into pie!) because they’re really quite easy to care for. The only problem with growing pumpkins, though, is how much space they require.

Most people don’t have a whole field to dedicate to just one crop, which is often what pumpkins need. Even the compact bush varieties I grow end up consuming half my garden with their long, twining vines. Then I came across a simple solution to the pumpkin problem.

Last summer I built a cattle panel trellis for my pumpkins and freed up so much space in my garden, I struggled to fill it with other plants. Here are the top reasons why you should try growing on a DIY pumpkin trellis, plus some tips on how to do it.

Benefits of Growing Pumpkins Vertically

When I first saw a cattle panel arch online, I was impressed. This seemed like the ideal answer to the question of how to grow pumpkins vertically. Then I started seeing cattle panel trellises popping up all over town. As a gardening editor, I thought I better try this out for myself and see if it’s really worth the hype. It is.

Here are some of the biggest benefits of growing pumpkins vertically in your garden.

1. It’s beautiful

My DIY squash arch totally changed the look and feel of my garden. I was able to put in a path that leads through the center of my garden under the arch. Walking under the lush, green vines makes even mundane garden tasks like watering so much more fun. The vines growing on the arch also provide some much-needed shade in my totally sun-soaked garden.

2. It saves space

Incorporating an easy vertical gardening element in your landscape, like an arch, not only makes your garden look and feel bigger, but it actually increases the square footage. Two years ago, I grew four (supposedly) compact pumpkin plants. They were huge and filled up almost a quarter of my whole garden. Last year with my pumpkin arch, I grew six plants in about a third of the space.

Sure, the underside of the arch is shaded so you can’t grow any vegetables there. But instead you have a lovely path where you don’t have to worry about accidentally stepping on tender vines, like I did the previous year.

3. It keeps plants healthy

One of the biggest benefits of growing pumpkins vertically is that it can help prevent pests and diseases. Powdery mildew on pumpkins is often caused by overcrowding, but growing plants vertically provides plenty of necessary air flow. It also keeps rabbits and other small critters from nibbling on your plants.

This type of trellis also makes it really easy to examine your plants from every angle. I don’t have to worry about what pests or diseases might be lurking in the piles of foliage on the ground. I’m able to look over my pumpkins from both sides to make sure they’re healthy and the fruits are developing well.

4. It grows better looking pumpkins

I’ve tried growing pumpkins vertically using other methods. One summer I made an obelisk from timbers and chicken wire and another year I made a vertical trellis using branches and leftover metal fencing. But neither of those methods were able to stand up to the weight of the heavy pumpkin vines and fruit. They ended up collapsing or not being big enough to contain all the vines.

A cattle panel trellis, however, is rigid and strong enough to hold up my pumpkins without bending at all. If you guide your gourds through the holes in the panel when they’re small, it also helps fruit develop more evenly. There’s no flat, dirty side like you get when growing pumpkins on the ground.

Get the Look in Your Garden

Build a cattle panel trellis yourself with this simple step-by-step guide or buy a solid metal garden arch that provides the same benefits and beauty.

This arched trellis and raised bed bundle from Amazon comes with two durable metal beds and a large, sturdy arch that’s perfect for growing pumpkins. The Titan Squash Tunnel from Gardener’s Supply is a great budget option for money-conscious gardeners.

Few items spell fall like pumpkin spice. The blend of spices is the key to good pumpkin pie, but they also show up in other foods and home scents, like candles. For decades it has been all the rage at coffee shops, too, showing up just as the leaves begin to change color. Its presence signals cooler weather and cozy habits like curling up with a good book and enjoying a homemade pumpkin spice latte.

Fans of pumpkin spice lattes should also know the sugary treat can pack in the calories. Is it possible to make a healthy pumpkin spice latte? If you make your own, you can control the amount and type of sugar, as well as the fat content. It all begins with a recipe for fresh pumpkin and some purchased spices. Learn how to make pumpkin spice latte at home and enjoy a personalized version of this Autumn treat.

Preserving Pumpkin

One popular coffee shop lists a pumpkin spice latte as containing 390 calories. If you have a bit of a fetish about the drink and order them frequently, that can add up quickly. But you can make your own latte and lower the sugars and fat in the beverage. Around September, grocery stores and farmer's markets are teeming with pumpkins, squashes, and gourds. Many gardeners will also be harvesting their own pumpkins.

But what to make with fresh pumpkin? You can use it roasted as a side dish, put it in soups and stews, puree it for use as a pie filling or in other desserts, or can it for later use. Pumpkin puree is a key ingredient in a homemade pumpkin spice latte, customized for your tastes.

Cut a small sugar pumpkin in half and scoop out the seeds. These can be reserved for roasting as a crunchy topping or snack. Sprinkle water on a baking pan and place the halves skin side up on the pan. Bake at 425 degrees Fahrenheit ( 218 C) for around 50 minutes or until the flesh is soft.

Let it cool a bit and then scoop out the flesh. For beverages it will need to be smooth and pureed in a food processor or blender. Freeze or can for long term storage, or keep in the refrigerator for a week.

Making the Perfect Pumpkin Spice

Pumpkin spices may be purchased already mixed and ready to use. They will be in the baking aisle. But a homemade version will be cheaper and fresher and keeps for months if stored properly. You will need:

• 1/3 cup ( 32 grams) ground cinnamon
• 2 tablespoons ( 10 grams) ground nutmeg
• 2 tablespoons ( 10 grams) ground ginger
• 1 tablespoon ( 5 grams) ground cloves
• 2 teaspoons ( 4 grams) ground all spice
• 2 teaspoons ( 4 grams) ground cardamom

If you only have whole spices like cinnamon and cloves, these can be pulsed to ground consistency in a coffee mill, food processor, mortar and pestle, or blender. Store in an air tight container in a cool, dark location until ready to use.

Homemade Pumpkin Spice Latte Recipe

You have a multitude of sugar replacements here. Agave syrup, maple syrup, stevia, honey, and many more are readily available as natural sugar alternatives. If the goal is to reduce the fat in the drink, select a lower fat option milk or use a lower fat nut milk. The basic recipe is:

• 1 cup ( 284 grams) low fat milk
• 2 tablespoons ( 10 grams) pumpkin puree
• 1 tablespoon ( 5 grams) sugar or sugar substitute
• 1/4 teaspoon ( 0.5 grams) pumpkin pie spice
• 1/4 teaspoon ( 0.5 grams) vanilla extract
• 1/4 cup ( 71 grams) hot, freshly brewed coffee

Combine the first five ingredients and warm them either on the stove top or in the microwave. Whisk vigorously until frothy. Top the coffee with the mixture. Add toasted pumpkin seeds, a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg, and whipped cream if you are feeling really naughty.

Perhaps you've seen pepitas at your local grocery store or found them in your granola. These tasty green seeds can be a bit pricey, so it's natural for any gardener to wonder if growing pepitas in the home garden is possible. First, we need to figure out what they are.

Are Pepitas Pumpkin Seeds?

You may have heard that “pepitas” is another term for pumpkin seeds. Yet, the pepitas at the store don't look like the seeds that come from homegrown pumpkins. Pepitas have a fine papery skin, much like hulled sunflower seeds. So, are pepitas simply hulled pumpkin seeds?

While that seems logical, pepitas are not produced by hulling ordinary pumpkin seeds. Unlike the hard-shelled seeds that most gardeners find inside garden-grown pumpkins, pepitas come from a special type of winter squash called oilseed pumpkins.

These varieties are sometimes referred to as naked seeded, hulless, or Styrian pumpkins. They can be grown in the home garden and no specialized equipment is needed to remove the hulls. The seeds come out of the pumpkin bearing thin papery skins.

Growing Pumpkin Seeds vs. Pepitas

In many ways, cultivating a hulless variety of pumpkin is similar to growing ordinary pumpkins. Hulless pumpkins prefer a full sun location with well-drained, organically enriched soil. They take three to four months to reach maturity. The plant is susceptible to frost, but the fruit can tolerate short exposures of cold down to 28 degrees F. (-2 C.).

Unlike ordinary pumpkins, starting pepita plants from seeds takes a little bit of finesse. Without the protective seed coat, pepitas are much more likely to rot than ordinary pumpkin seeds. For this reason, gardeners who sow pepita seeds directly in the garden are advised to wait until the soil temperature reaches 70 degrees F. (21 C.).

A simpler method is to start hulless pumpkin seeds indoors using a soilless mix. Sow two to three seeds per pellet, peat pot, or cell. A heated mat may be necessary to keep the germination temperature at the desired 75 to 95 degrees F. (24-35 C.). Once the seedlings have emerged, they can be thinned to one per container.

Pepita plants started two to three weeks prior to the last frost date will be ready to transplant into the garden about two weeks after the final frost. The plants will need to be hardened off prior to transplanting in the garden.

Like ordinary pumpkins, plant pepita seeds or transplants in hills. Space the hills 4 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) apart or follow the variety-specific spacing guidelines found on the seed packet. Water, fertilize, and protect pepita plants from pests in the same manner as you would ordinary pumpkins.

You need not worry about keeping pepita pumpkins away from your carving and pie varieties. Cross pollination will not cause the seeds inside the pepita pumpkin to form a heavy seed coat. They will still be hulless, but any viable seeds may not produce true to type if you were to plant them the following spring.

Harvesting Pepitas

Like ordinary pumpkin plants, pepita vines and foliage will begin to die back as the fruit nears maturity. Pepita pumpkins can ripen and cure in the garden. You can use them for fall decorating, then harvest the hulless seeds as long as the pumpkins haven't started to decay.

To remove the seeds, cut the pumpkins in half and scrape out the seeds using a spoon. Rinse the seeds with water. Pepita seeds can be eaten raw, roasted, or dehydrated. They can also be frozen. Depending upon the variety, the flesh of pepita pumpkins can be eaten fresh or cooked.

There are several popular pumpkin varieties with hulless seeds. Look for these pepita pumpkin cultivars where garden seeds are sold:

• Emerald Naked Seeded pumpkin
• Kakai Hulless pumpkin
• Lady Godiva 
• Naked Bear
• Styrian Hulless
• Triple Treat
• William's Naked Seeded pumpkin

Pumpkin is a fun fruit to grow either for jack-o-lanterns or for holiday pies. If you are interested in trying your hand at growing your own you might be wondering how many pumpkins you get per plant. After all, knowing the number of pumpkins per plant will help you decide just how many plants to plant for your needs. 

How Many Pumpkins Per Vine? 

Scientists believe that pumpkins originated in North America about 9000 years ago. Since then many cultivars have developed, from tiny miniature fruit weighing about a pound (454 g.), to true monsters that weigh over 50 pounds (23 kg.) and potentially much more. 

A general rule of thumb is that large fruiting plants produce only a couple of pumpkins per vine. On the other hand, the smaller varieties can produce 8-10 fruits. 

How Many Jack-O-Lanterns Per Plant?

How many fruits are produced on pumpkins for carving? Howden, Tom Fox and Autumn Gold are all examples of cultivars popular in New England. 

• Howden is the stereotypical jack-o-lantern’s shape; it weighs about 25 pounds (11 kg.) and produces only 1-2 fruits per vine. 
• Tom Fox produces smaller fruit weighing in at about 15 pounds (7 kg.) with 2-3 fruits on the vine. 
• Autumn Gold is an even smaller variety producing 3-5 fruits weighing 7-10 pounds (3-4.5 kg) each. 

Pumpkin Yield Per Acre

As you can see, the number of pumpkins produced per acre varies depending upon the type of fruit you grow. That said, the most common pumpkins grown on larger acreage are those that are to be sold as carving pumpkins with a median size of around 15 pounds (7 kg.). In this instance the grower can expect to yield 15,000-30,000 pounds (6804-13,608 kg.) per acre. 

Autumn is often considered the season to harvest pumpkins. While most of our garden veggies are picked at the peak of ripeness, the target date for harvesting pumpkins is usually determined by the calendar. So what happens if Autumn has arrived and your pumpkins aren't ready? Should you pick them anyway? 

When to Harvest Pumpkin

Depending upon the variety, pumpkins typically take between 90 and 120 days to reach maturity. Hot, humid days can cause pumpkins to ripen early, as can any condition which causes the vines to die prematurely. Likewise, a warm fall allows pumpkins vines to continue growing, which can delay ripening. 

Aside from wanting pumpkins to display in the fall or for carving at Halloween, the ideal time to pick pumpkins is when they are fully ripe. Pumpkins which have reached the peak of maturity will have the best flavor, color and the longest shelf life. To know when to pick pumpkins, check for these signs of ripeness:

• Mature color – Whether you planted an orange variety or another color of pumpkin, check to see if the pumpkin has completely changed to its mature color.
• Hard skin – Try pressing your fingernail into the pumpkin's surface. If it doesn't leave a dent, the skin has hardened. 
• Woody stem – Yellowing leaves and vines at the end of the growing season indicate the fruit is ripening. At this time, the stem will begin to turn brown and become woody.
• Hollow sound – Tap lightly on the pumpkin. A ripe pumpkin will produce a hollow sound.

How to Harvest Pumpkins 

Once the pumpkins are fully mature, use a pair of sharp pruning loppers to sever the vine a few inches from the pumpkin. Leaving a section of stem on the pumpkin makes it more attractive, plus helps prevent it from rotting. To keep the stem from breaking off, never use it as a handle to pick up or carry the pumpkin.

Freshly-harvested pumpkins can be used immediately in recipes or preserved for future culinary dishes. Pumpkins intended for storage or use as fall decor will need to cure. This process allows the skin to harden and any scratches to heal. 

Curing can be done in the field providing the weather remains warm and dry. It takes 7 to 14 days for pumpkins to cure under ideal conditions of 80 to 85 degrees F. (27-29 C.) and 80% humidity. If conditions aren't conducive for field drying, carefully move the pumpkins to a warm, dry shelter to cure. 

After the pumpkins have cured, they can be displayed, carved, or stored. Pumpkins can be stored for 10 or more weeks at 50 to 60 degrees F. (10-16 C.) and 50 to 80% humidity.

Does Frost Affect Pumpkin Harvest Time

In addition to wanting pumpkins for fall decorating, threats of frost or freezing temperatures are another common reason for picking pumpkins before the peak of ripeness. Although pumpkins can survive a light frost, temperatures below 28 degrees F. (-2 C.) will damage pumpkin tissue and lead to decay. 

While gardeners may be able to protect their crop from a light frost by covering the pumpkins, lower temperatures often necessitate picking the fruit in order to save it. Partially ripe pumpkins can reach their mature color off the vine. These pumpkins may be usable as fall decorations or for carving, but will lack the flavor and storage life of field-ripened pumpkins.

The holidays bring out our favorite recipes. Homemade pumpkin pie is one of the highlights of the fall season and features prominently on Thanksgiving menus. Growing your own pumpkin puree from scratch starts with the right variety. Choose a pie pumpkin plant that produces gourds with natural sweetness and great texture. Pumpkin pie plants need 90-100 days to mature, so start in spring for the proper harvest time. 

Store-bought pumpkin puree often contains loads of sugar and preservatives. But it's easy to make pumpkin puree from scratch, to make your own for homemade pie pumpkin cooking. Start by growing your own organic pumpkins and then follow a few short steps for home grown and homemade pumpkin pie. 

Varieties to Grow

You will want one of the smaller pumpkins in most cases. The bigger pumpkins have stringy, often almost tasteless flesh, but the pie varieties are firmer and sweeter. Once you have the perfect variety, it can be grown and turned into pumpkin pie, but also pumpkin soup, muffins, cheesecake, pumpkin butter, and more. Some varieties to try:

• Fairytale
• New England pie pumpkin
• Cinderella
• Dickinson
• Galeux d'Eysines
• Orange Smoothie
• Jarrahdale
• Small Sugar

Preparing a Pie Pumpkin

You can tell pumpkins are ripe and ready when the rind is firm and the color is deep. But not every pie pumpkin produces an orange gourd, so the last tip may be useless. Instead, try to pierce the skin with a fingernail. If it doesn't go through easily, the pumpkin is probably ripe. Other signs are the time of year, brown stems, and a hollow sound when you rap on the gourd. Harvest on a dry sunny day. Cut the stem rather than twisting the fruit off the plant. Wash the gourd and you are ready for pie pumpkin cooking. 

Making Puree

Preparing a pie pumpkin for cooking usually requires you to cut the whole thing in half. Use a sharp knife and be careful. If you are using smaller pumpkins, they can be pierced and roasted whole. Scoop out the seeds before roasting larger fruits. Bake about half an hour or until the flesh is tender. Use a spoon to remove the flesh after it has cooled enough to handle. You can also microwave smaller pumpkins cut in half for about 15 minutes, but roasting adds to the flavor and gives it a bit of caramelization. You can freeze puree until ready to use, or get going on your favorite pie recipe immediately. 

You can make a beautiful floral pumpkin centerpiece for only $13. Or even less if you use flowers from your own garden! Here are the supplies you'll need:

• Pumpkin or Large Gourd
• Vase or Mason Jar
• Pruners
• Sharp Knife
• Scissors
• Scooper
• Fresh Cut Flowers

First, measure the circumference of the vase, and cut a hole of about the same size in the top of the pumpkin. Scoop out the insides, but be sure to save them to share with the local wildlife. Set the vase inside the pumpkin, and fill it with water. Measure your flowers against the height of the pumpkin, and cut the stems so that the flowers reach just over the top of the hole. Then arrange them so they make a full bouquet, with some flowers and greenery covering the edge of the hole. If you want, supplement with more flowers from your garden until it looks just right.

This pumpkin centerpiece will serve as a beautiful fall addition to your home. Once the pumpkin starts to turn, don't throw it away! Put it outside, where the wildlife will be sure to enjoy it, too.

Get This DIY And a Dozen More of Our Favorite Fall & Winter Projects

Autumn is pumpkin season. Whether you use this traditional fall crop for decoration or as a culinary delight, one thing is for sure. It's time to break out of the classic orange pumpkin mold and try something new. Here's our list of the 10 most unusual types of pumpkins to grow and use.

The 10 Most Interesting Pumpkin Varieties

1. Black Futsu – Like a color-changing chameleon, this rare Japanese variety is one of the most unique pumpkins you can grow. Starting out as a greenish-black wart covered fruit, 'Black Futsu' turns chestnut color when mature, but not before transitioning through a grayish-green, moldy-looking stage. Unparalleled for its spookiness, the flesh of this variety has a sweet, buttery flavor. 

2. Cushaw Pumpkin – The green and white striped skin, coupled with a crook-necked shape, makes 'Cushaw' a variety of unique pumpkins to grow at home. Although not well-suited for carving, this old fashioned favorite has a mild, sweet, orange flesh. Use it for pies, soups, and smoothies.

3. Dill's Atlantic Giant – The biggest of the big pumpkin varieties, 'Dill's Atlantic Giant' is a heavyweight contender in any “Largest Pumpkin” contest. This variety does best with ample sunlight, fertile soil, and plenty of room to grow. Other giant contenders include 'Prize Winner' and 'Big Max.'

4. Jack-Be-Little – One of many miniature pumpkin varieties, 'Jack-Be-Little' resembles a tiny replica of the classic orange pumpkin. At only 2 inches (5 cm.) tall, these adorable minis make wonderful table displays. For contrast and color, mix with other miniature varieties such as the white 'Baby Boo' or the orange and white striped 'Tiger.'

5. Jarrahdale – One of the more unusual types of pumpkins, this deeply ribbed, orange-fleshed variety has a greenish to grayish blue skin. “Jarrahdale” contrasts nicely in decorative porch settings with classic orange varieties, but don't overlook this long-keeper's exception flavor when it comes to pie making. Alternate blue varieties include 'Blue Moon' and 'Blue Doll.'

6. Lakota – Sporting a pear-shape, Lakota is one of the most unique pumpkins to grow. Named for the American Indians who cultivated it, this brightly-colored reddish-orange pumpkin has dark green highlights along its ribs and bottom. Sweet and creamy enough to eat fresh, Lakota has a nutty flavor. 

7. Long Island Cheese – Looking like a wheel of pale yellow cheese, this heirloom variety from the 19^th century is one of the more unusual types of pumpkins. Shaped like a flattened sphere with medium ribbing, “Long Island Cheese” has stringless flesh and a sweet, earthy flavor. 

8. Lumina – The ghosty-white skin of these unusual Halloween pumpkins contrasts nicely with their bright orange interior. Use Lumina as a carving pumpkin, for painting and decorating or for eating. The fine-grain flesh has a mild, earthy flavor that's ideal for pumpkin soup. Additional white varieties include 'Casper' and 'Silver Moon'.

9. Porcelain Doll Pink Pumpkin – The peachy-pink colored skin isn't the only reason 'Porcelain Doll' is one of the most unique pumpkins on the market. A percentage of the proceeds from the sale of these pink pumpkins and seeds benefits breast cancer research and awareness. For the best color, allow “Porcelain Doll” to remain on the vine until fully ripe.

10. Warty Goblin – Named for the orange and green warts which arise in clusters from the bright orange skin, “Warty Goblin” is the quintessential holiday décor. Their sheer ugliness makes these unusual Halloween pumpkins ideal for carving spooky and spine-chilling Jack-o-lanterns. Adult supervision is recommended as the hard shell can be difficult to cut.

Although All Hallows Eve is a religious holiday in Europe, the American cousin, Halloween, focuses more on pumpkins than saints. For many kids, carving pumpkins into grinning jack-o’-lanterns is the highlight of the holiday – along with trick-or-treating of course.

But just as October 31 inevitably melts into November, pumpkins slide quietly from décor to detritus, and the question arises: what are some things to do with pumpkins in November? In other words, how to dispose of those Halloween pumpkins after all the fun is gone.

Fortunately, there are cool and creative answers to this question.

Creative Things To Do With Pumpkins

Growing pumpkins for Halloween is great fun, and so is carving one to put on display, but what do you do with them when Halloween is over? That general question has three subparts: what to do with pumpkin seeds? What to do with pumpkin flesh? And what to do with the pumpkin shell? Let’s just say that you have options in each category.

What to Do with Pumpkin Seeds?

1. Save those pumpkin seeds to plant the following spring. Yes, you probably won’t use them all unless you are a farmer, but allow 12 or so to dry out in the sun or a dehydrator (like this one from Amazon), then store them away for next year’s planting.
2. Roast your pumpkin seeds. They make a nutritious and delicious snack. Here’s how: clean them, dry them, then spread the seeds on a lightly greased cookie sheet and cook at 350 degrees for about 12 to 15 minutes.
3. Roast your pumpkin seeds and leave them out for the birds.

What to Do with Pumpkin Pulp?

1. The pumpkin pulp, also known as pumpkin flesh, is what pumpkin pies are made of. But that’s not all – pumpkin soup, pumpkin muffins, pumpkin anything. There are certain varieties of pumpkin that are best for cooking. Find a recipe and get started! Note: pulp should be placed in the refrigerator quickly after the pumpkin is cut open. If it sits out for an hour or more, you should forget about eating it.
2. For those who don’t feel like eating it, try cooking pumpkin pulp and feeding it to pets. Many dogs enjoy cooked pumpkin.
3. Failing this, it can get chopped and composted.

What to Do with Pumpkin Shells?

1. Turn your pumpkin shell into a bird feeder. As long as the carved-out pumpkin hasn’t decayed, you can cut “windows” into the sides, insert pieces of wood under the windows for bird perches, then fill up the pumpkin shell with bird seed, available on Amazon.
2. Put old pumpkins out to feed deer and other wildlife. For smaller animals, it helps to cut the jack-o’-lantern into pieces first.
3. You can also compost pumpkin shells, but chop them up before you add them to your compost pile. Everything composts faster when broken up into small pieces.

You didn't intentionally plant a variety of the so-called “ugly” pumpkins. Yet, your traditional pumpkin crop is covered with weird bumps, indentations, or odd coloration. At first you might think this is the result of a seed mix-up. Then you notice your yields are down and no new pumpkins are developing. What you may be seeing are pumpkins with mosaic virus.

What is Pumpkin Yellow Mosaic Virus?

Several different types of pathogens are responsible for causing mosaic virus in pumpkin plants. Generally, these viruses are named for the first species in which they were identified. So even though zucchini yellow mosaic virus (ZYMV) was first isolated in zucchini plants, it doesn't necessarily mean only zucchini can be infected by ZYMV.

In fact, zucchini plants may not even be ZYMV's primary host. Often, mosaic viruses can infect a wide range of plants, including weeds. There is only one way to accurately determine which pumpkin mosaic virus is affecting your future jack-o-lantern crop and that's to send a sample of infected plant tissue to a laboratory for testing.

Fortunately, that's not necessary or even helpful, as there are no current means of curing viral infections in plants. Instead, gardeners are advised to focus on identifying, preventing, and eliminating sources of mosaic virus in pumpkin crops.

Identifying Symptoms of Pumpkin Mosaic Virus

• Mottled leaves with areas of tonal differences in color
• Shriveled, puckered, or contorted leaves
• Deformed, warty, or bumpy pumpkins
• Green or yellow stripes or blotches on mature pumpkins
• Undersized fruit or lack of fruit development, especially toward the ends of the stems
• Signs of secondary infections, like rotting
• Lower than expected pumpkin yields
• Stunted plant growth
• Flowers exhibiting an unusual shape or size
• Symptom development occurs faster on warm days after the summer solstice
• The presence of vector insects, namely aphids

Controlling Mosaic Virus in Pumpkin Patches

Most pumpkins with mosaic virus were infected through vector transmission from aphids. Controlling aphid populations seems the logical solution for stopping the spread of pumpkin yellow mosaic virus. However, transmission of the virus occurs rapidly once the infected aphid begins feeding.

By the time aphids are detected, it's usually too late to spray. Instead, try these methods for controlling the spread of pumpkin mosaic virus:

• Remove Weeds: Other species of plants can harbor both the pumpkin mosaic virus and aphids. Frequent weeding and mulching can remove these plants from around pumpkin plants.
• Rotate Crops: Many of the mosaic viruses also infect other members of cucurbit family. These include squash, zucchini, cucumbers, and melons. If possible, plant these family members in different areas of the garden each year.
• Clean-up Diseased Plant Material: To prevent further spread of the disease remove and properly dispose of plants infected with mosaic virus. Avoid placing diseased plant material in compost bins as soil can harbor viral diseases.
• Disinfect: After handling infected plants, be sure to wash hands or gloves. Disinfect tools and planters to avoid contamination.
• Plant Mosaic-Resistant Pumpkin Cultivars: In areas where mosaic virus is abundant, planting mosaic-resistant varieties may be the best option. Pumpkin varieties like Corvette, Magician, or Orange Bulldog have resistance to particular mosaic viruses.

If you are one of those pumpkin carvers who throws out the seeds, think again. Pumpkin seeds are loaded with vitamins, minerals, fiber, antioxidants, protein, and more. Wondering what to do with pumpkin seeds? They are easy to prepare and work not only as a snack, but also in savory and sweet recipes.

What to Do with Pumpkin Seeds

Pumpkins are pretty easy to grow and a common supermarket staple in fall. Most of us will have the occasion to carve one up and make it a jack-o-lantern or simply roast it for pie. Before you do either though, you need to clean out the guts and seeds. Stop yourself before dumping them out. There are many pumpkin seed uses and the benefits are worth the processing time.

Once you extract the seeds from the slimy pulp, the options are broad. In most cases, the seeds should be roasted to bring out their best flavor. Rinse the seeds and toss them with some melted butter or oil. You can choose to salt them or get really crazy with seasonings like jerk, taco, or anything else you fancy.

Roast them in a medium low oven, stirring often, until the seeds are lightly browned and crunchy. You can now use them just like this as a snack, salad topper, or garnish on dessert. You might also try using pumpkin seeds a step further and incorporate them into recipes like pesto or nut brittle. 

Pumpkin Seed Benefits

For a throw away by-product, pumpkin seeds contain a remarkable number of uses and benefits. There is a ton of manganese and magnesium, but also a fair amount of phosphorus, iron, and vitamin K. Antioxidants like carotenoids and Vitamin E may have the ability to reduce inflammation.

Among the potential health benefits are improved bladder and prostate health, as well as some indication that consumption can reduce the risk of certain types of cancer. A twelve week study on women found wonderful pumpkin seed benefits in the forms of lower blood pressure, higher levels of good cholesterol, and overall improved heart health.

How to Use Pumpkin Seeds

Many cooks find that purchasing the oil is the easiest way of using pumpkin seeds. Many organic and natural food stores will carry the oil. Of course, as a snack is the most common of pumpkin seed uses.

Puree toasted seeds and use them in place of peanut butter or as part of dips and other spreads. In sweet dishes, they are fun to add to cookies, candies, cakes, muffins, and breads. As a savory component to recipes, pumpkin seeds go with almost any national cuisine and are versatile enough to carry a dish.

If you think pumpkins are just for jack-o-lanterns and pumpkin pie, think again. There are many ways to use pumpkins. While the aforementioned are practically synonymous uses for pumpkins around the holidays, there are many other ways of using pumpkins. Not sure what to do with pumpkins? Read on to learn about creative pumpkin uses.

What to Do with Pumpkins After the Holidays

The tradition of jack-o-lanterns came to the U.S. via Irish immigrants (though they were actually turnips rather than pumpkins), and while it is a fun and imaginative project, the end result is often tossed out after a few weeks. Instead of throwing the carved pumpkin away, cut it up into pieces and leave it outside for our feathered and furred friends to snack on or add it to the compost pile.

Ways to Use Pumpkins in the Kitchen

Pumpkin pies are fantastic, as are pumpkin cheesecakes and other pumpkin related desserts. Many people use canned pumpkin, but if you have access to fresh pumpkins, try making your own pumpkin puree to use in these treats.

To make pumpkin puree, cut a pumpkin in half and remove the guts and seeds, but save them. Place the cut end down on a baking dish and bake for 90 minutes or so depending upon the size of the pumpkin, until you can squeeze it some and there is give. Scoop the cooked pulp from the skin which can then be discarded. Cool the puree and then use it in a myriad of desserts, pumpkin butter, curried pumpkin soup, or package it and freeze for later use.

Remember those seeds? They can be laid in a single layer on cookie sheets to dry and used as bird seed or roasted in the oven with salt or other seasonings for human consumption. If you plan to feed them to animals, leave the seasoning off.

The guts saved from making the pumpkin puree can also be used. Just simmer it in water for 30 minutes and then strain the solids from the infused water. Voila, you have pumpkin stock, perfect for thinning out a pumpkin based or vegetarian soup.

Other Uses for Pumpkins

Pumpkin may taste great in many recipes, but it also has nutritional benefits. It is high in vitamin A and C, and rich in zinc and other nutrients. These nutrients are good for the inside of your body, but how about the outside? Yes, yet another way of using pumpkin is to make a mask with the puree. It will help dissolve dead skin cells, resulting in glowing, smooth skin.

Other pumpkin uses include making the squash into a bird feeder, a beer or beverage cooler, or even as a flower planter. There are certainly many other ways to use pumpkins, only limited by your imagination.

The tradition of creating jack o’ lanterns began with carving root vegetables, like turnips, in Ireland. When Irish immigrants discovered hollow pumpkins in North America, a new tradition was born. While carving pumpkins are generally large, try making miniature pumpkin lights out of smaller gourds for a new, festive Halloween decoration.

How to Make Mini Pumpkin Lanterns

Carving a mini jack o’ lantern is essentially the same as creating one of the standard sizes. There are a few things to keep in mind to make it easier and more successful:

• Choose pumpkins that are small but round. Too flattened and you won’t be able to carve it.
• Cut a circle and remove the top as you would with a larger pumpkin. Use a teaspoon to carve out the seeds.
• Use a sharp, small knife to reduce the risk of cutting yourself. A serrated knife works well. Use the spoon to scrape out more of the pumpkin on the side you plan to carve. Thinning the side will make it easier to cut.
• Draw the face on the side of the pumpkin before cutting. Use LED tea lights instead of real candles for safer lighting.

Mini Pumpkin Lantern Ideas

You can use your mini jack o’ lanterns in the same way you would larger pumpkins. However, with the smaller size, these mini pumpkins are more versatile:

• Line the jack o’ lanterns along the fireplace mantle.
• Put them along the railing of a porch or deck.
• Using small shepherd hooks and some twine, hang the mini pumpkins along a walkway.
• Place the mini pumpkins in the crooks of trees.
• Put several in a large planter in between fall plants like mums and kale.
• Use mini jack o’ lanterns as a Halloween centerpiece.

Mini jack o’ lanterns are a fun alternative to the traditional large carved pumpkin. There are many more things you can do with them using your own imagination and creativity to make your Halloween festive and unique. 

It has probably happened to all of us. The season is ending, your pumpkin vines are dying, and your fruits have not yet turned orange. Are they ripe or not? Can you eat green pumpkins? Unripe pumpkin eating is likely not as tasty as ripe fruits, but will it harm you? Answers to these questions and more follow.

Can You eat Green Pumpkins?

Nothing says fall like squash and pumpkins. Unfortunately, the colder weather and lack of sunshine can mean much of our produce didn't ripen properly. It doesn't have to go to waste though. Consider the fried green tomato, a thing of such delicate flavor as to make your mouth sing. Are green pumpkins edible? Well, they won't kill you, but the flavor may lack sweetness.

Green pumpkins happen. All pumpkins start out green and gradually ripen to orange. Once they are ripe the vine dies, and the fruit is ready. With cooler temperatures and less sunlight, it is unlikely the pumpkins will ripen. You can try putting them in a sunny, warm area like a greenhouse or solarium. You can also just leave them in place, provided there aren't any hard freezes.

Turn them frequently to expose the rind to any sun. With a little luck the fruits will mature more, although they may not turn all the way orange. They are still edible and can be used in a variety of recipes.

Tips on Eating Green Pumpkins

To be sure they are usable, cut one open. If the flesh is orange, it will be almost as nice as a ripe fruit. Even green flesh can be used in soups and stews-- just make sure to spice it up. Flavors like Indian and Szechuan can go a long way to embellishing the green fruit.

Eating green pumpkins in pie is not recommended, as there aren't enough sugars built up in the fruit. Plus, your pumpkin pie will be a sickly color. Roasting the flesh will help bring out sugars a little bit and enhance the flavor.

Actual Green Pumpkins

Still wondering if green pumpkins are edible? Cast your mind back to spring. What variety of pumpkin did you plant? There are pumpkin varieties that are supposed to be green. Jarrahdale is a bluish green pumpkin with a shape like Cinderella's coach. Other varieties are Goblin, Turk's Turban, Italian Stripe, Black and Silver, and Shamrock pumpkin.

Several squash varieties also look like pumpkins but are naturally green. Hubbard, acorn, and kabocha come to mind. If you are sure it is a variety that is supposed to turn orange, you can try adding smaller fruit to a bag of apples. The ethylene gas released may help the fruit ripen.

As our harvests come to pass and the weather begins to cool, it's time to turn our attention to other tasks. A bumper crop of pumpkins begins to take shape as pie filling, while the outside makes perfect planters. The trick is making pumpkin planters last so you can keep the plants inside growing happily. There are a few tips and tricks to ensure a long-lasting pumpkin planter.

Preserving Carved Pumpkins

By nature, an organic container will eventually break down. Keeping pumpkins from rotting after you have gone to all the work to make them into planters is a tricky proposition. Many crafters are simply happy to have them for a month and then plant the whole thing in the ground when the container begins to discolor and get soft.

If you want yours to last longer though, location and a little care can extend the life of your container.

How you prepare your planter goes a long way to its longevity. Before you cut into it, wash the pumpkin carefully with a 10 percent solution of water and bleach. Let it air dry well before making your cuts.

Make sure you pick a fresh one as well, right out of the garden if possible. After you have removed the flesh and seeds, let the interior of the pumpkin dry out for a day before planting inside. Less moisture inside will help prevent immediate rotting. Then make sure you drill a couple of holes in the bottom for excess moisture to drain.

Making a Long-Lasting Pumpkin Planter

Making pumpkin planters last longer relies upon the type of set up inside. Pour a layer of pebbles or little rocks to cover the bottom of the planter. Use a good potting soil or sterilize your soil by baking it for 20 minutes and letting it cool. Certain plants, such as air plants, can be installed in sphagnum moss which will prevent rotting. Others need good soil.

A good tip to prevent excess moisture and help you reassemble the project if the container does rot is to leave your plants in their nursery pots. Cover up the pot edges with moss. If you have to remove them from a planter that is rotting, transferring them will be quick and easy.

Eventually, the container will go. That's just science. However, to keep pumpkins from rotting too quickly, spray them daily with a low bleach solution. You can also use peppermint oil or an organic peppermint soap spray. Rub the exposed cut areas with petroleum jelly. Keep insects away from the planter. Their activities will speed up the decay process.

The most important tip of all is placement. A planter indoors will receive heat, which can speed up decay. Planters outside should be under cover to avoid excess moisture. No matter what you do, the pumpkin will eventually become compost. If you want to avoid that entirely, purchase a “funkin” that will last indefinitely.

Can you grow pumpkins in containers? Technically speaking, you can grow almost any plant in a pot, but the results will vary. A potted pumpkin vine will sprawl tremendously, so you still need enough space for the plant to do its thing. Outside of that little problem, all you need is a container, soil, and seed or seedling. Keep reading for tips on how to grow pumpkins in pots.

Can You Grow Pumpkin in Containers?

If you are dreaming of the great pumpkin, growing a pumpkin in a container may not achieve that goal. However, for those sweet little baking squash, container grown pumpkins will provide enough fruit for a holiday pie.

A potted pumpkin vine is a chaotic, yet gorgeous way to decorate your patio. The first step to growing a pumpkin in a container is selecting the pot. It needs to be spacious, although not particularly deep. For mini pumpkins, a 10 gallon (38 L.) container will work; but if you are going to try for bigger squash, double the size.

Make sure there are generous drainage holes and consider using an unglazed pot so excess moisture doesn't build up.

How to Grow Pumpkins in Pots

Once you have your container, take time to make a good soil. Purchased potting soil will work but buy one which is made for vegetables and fruits. Make your own soil with native soil mixed by half with compost.

Now, select your pumpkin variety. You can either get starts at a nursery or plant by seed. Some smaller pumpkins to try include:

• Wee Be Little
• Baby Boo
• Munchkin
• Jack Be Little
• Small Sugar
• Spooktacular

Wait until temperatures are warm and plant three seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep. Water the container and wait. For quicker germination, put seeds wrapped in a moist paper towel in a plastic bag and set in a warm place indoors. Once you see the little sprout, plant it immediately. Place the container where the plant will receive full sun.

Caring for a Pumpkin in a Container

When all the seeds have sprouted, thin to just one or two vines for best results. Keep the plants moist by watering under the leaves so powdery mildew doesn't form. Water deeply and frequently.

Give your potted pumpkin vine a time release fertilizer worked into the soil. This should last all season.

You may want to train the vine up a sturdy fence or trellis to help manage the growth. If you are growing large pumpkins, pinch off flowers as fruits start to form so the plant's energy goes to forming larger fruit.

Harvest when the vine begins to die back and enjoy!

Raised bed gardening has become popular for many urban and suburban gardeners. These compact growing sites require no tilling, are easy to access, and convey a tidy appearance to the backyard.

Yet not all plants adapt well to growing in small spaces, which leaves gardeners wondering if growing pumpkins in a raised bed is plausible.

Raised Bed Pumpkins

Pumpkins are a type of winter squash which grow on vines that can reach 20 feet (6 m.) in length. Varieties of pumpkins range in size from those small enough to fit in the palm of one's hand to record breaking giants weighing over a ton.

When garden space is limited, which is often the case with raised bed methods, choosing an appropriately sized variety is the first step for successful pumpkin cultivation.

Miniature or pie varieties as well as those with a semi-bush or compact growth habit are good choices when using a raised garden bed for pumpkins. This information can usually be found on the seed packet, plant tag, or in the catalog description.

To get you started here are a few varieties that do well as raised bed pumpkins:

• Jack-Be-Little – With a 4 foot (1 m.) spread, this adorable miniature pumpkin makes excellent fall décor.
• Small Sugar – This heirloom pie variety has a very fine grain and stores well with only a 4 foot (1 m.) spread.
• Cherokee Bush – This classic orange variety produces 5 to 8 pound (2-4 kg.) fruit with a 4 to 5 feet (1-2 m.) spread.
• Jack of all Trades – Produces uniform orange carving pumpkins on compact vines and an almost 7 foot (2 m.) spread.
• Spirit – This semi-bush variety produces 12 inch (31 cm.) carving pumpkins and has a 10 foot (3 m.) spread.

Tips for Pumpkin Planting in Raised Beds

Once you've chosen one or more varieties of pumpkin, planting in raised beds requires forethought as to which direction the vines and fruit will grow. New growth can easily be redirected. However, established vines send out secondary roots from the base of each leaf stem. Disturbing these roots by moving older vines is not recommended.

Placing raised bed pumpkins near the planter's edge and allowing the vines to trail along the mulch between raised beds is one method. Care must be taken so the vines or developing fruit aren't damaged by foot traffic.

Additionally, allowing the vines to creep into the lawn means foregoing mowing that area until the pumpkins are harvested. Overgrown grass has the same effect as weeds. Competition for nutrients and water, reduced sunlight, and increased risk of disease make this a poor option for handling vine growth.

Conversely, trellises are an appealing method for growing pumpkins in a raised bed. The trellis must be sturdy enough to support the weight of the pumpkin vines, leaves, and fruit. Pumpkin vines will require training to get them started up the trellis but will then use their tendrils to coil around the supports. Pantyhose makes excellent pumpkin hammocks which “grow” along with the fruit.

Native to North America, pumpkins have been grown in every state of the union. Those with previous experience growing pumpkins know all too well that it’s impossible to keep the rampant vines contained. No matter how often I move the vines back into the garden, invariably, I end up inadvertently cutting back pumpkin vines with the lawn mower. This never seems to affect the plants and, in fact, the pruning of pumpkin vines is a fairly common practice. The question is when do you trim a pumpkin? Read on to find out how to prune pumpkins and other information on pumpkin vine pruning.

When to Trim a Pumpkin

Pumpkin vine pruning, as long as it is done judiciously, doesn’t harm the plants, as is evident by my inadvertent hacking of the vines while mowing the lawn. That said, cutting them back hard will reduce the foliage enough to affect photosynthesis and affect the plant’s health and productivity. Pruning is done to achieve one or both of the following: to reign in the plant’s size, or to promote the growth of a select pumpkin per vine. Otherwise, pumpkins can be trimmed back whenever they are getting in the way as long as you are prepared to lose potential fruit. Pruning pumpkin vines is necessary for folks growing “the big one,” those trying to attain the lofty goal of winning the state fair’s blue ribbon for giant pumpkins.

How to Prune Pumpkins

If you are in the running for the largest pumpkin grown in your area, you already know how to prune a pumpkin, but for the rest of us, here’s how to cut back a pumpkin. First, protect your hands from the prickly vines and glove up. With sharp pruning shears, cut secondary vines growing from the main vine. Measuring from the main vine, make the cut 10-12 feet (3-4 m.) down the secondary line. Cover the severed ends of the secondary vine with soil to prevent disease from entering the open wound and to reduce water loss. As they develop, remove the tertiary vines from the secondary vines. Cut close to the intersecting secondary vines with pruning shears. Measure the main vine and cut it to 10-15 feet (3-4.5 m.) from the last fruit on the vine. If the plant has multiple main vines (a plant may have 2-3), then repeat the process. Wait to cut the main vines until the fruit has developed enough to determine which fruit is the healthiest looking on the vine, then prune the vine to remove weaker pumpkins. Continue to cut the main vine as it grows to allow the plant to put all of its energy into the remaining fruit instead of vine growth. Again, bury the cut ends of the vine in the soil to protect from disease and retain moisture. Move the secondary vines 90 degrees from the main vine so they don’t overlap as they grow. This provides more room for the fruit to develop and allows for better air flow and access to the vines.

Connecticut field pumpkins are an age-old pumpkin variety. Delve into pumpkin plant history and learn a little more about these popular heirlooms.

History of Pumpkins

The history of pumpkins is understandably a bit vague, since the familiar, bright orange members of the squash family were widely used long before the advent of the written word.

Many plant historians think the plants are native to North America, although seeds of related plants dating back 5,000 to 7,000 years have been found in Central America and Mexico. There's no doubt, however, that pumpkins were a dietary staple for Native Americans long before the arrival of European settlers.

The fibrous squash was also flattened and dried for use in mats. It didn't take long for the idea to catch on, and settlers eventually learned to use pumpkins in soups, stews and desserts. Although pumpkins were almost certainly used at early feasts, the primitive ovens of the early settlers couldn't handle baked pie crusts as we know them today.

Historians think it is more likely that pumpkins were used to make beer, and that it wasn't until the early nineteenth century that pumpkin pie became the go-to desert for American Thanksgiving dinners. Pumpkin pies may be traditional Thanksgiving fare, but modern cooks use pumpkins in creative ways ranging from pancakes and custard to soufflés and ravioli. The roasted seeds (pepita) are flavorful, protein-rich snacks.

Today, we know that pumpkins are a powerhouse of vitamins and minerals, as well as antioxidants and dietary fiber. The intense orange color is an unmistakable indication that pumpkins are chock full of beta-carotene, which is believed to reduce the risk of heart disease, certain types of cancer, and certain problems associated with aging.

Connecticut Field Pumpkin Information

There's nothing complicated about Connecticut field pumpkins. This heirloom variety is the familiar, deep orange-yellow pumpkin traditionally found in supermarkets and farmers' markets. Their shape, smooth skin and firm, flat bottom make them the pumpkin of choice for creating jack o' lanterns.

Connecticut field pumpkins, however, aren't the best choice for most recipes, as the flesh tends to be coarse, stringy, and not particularly sweet. However, Connecticut pumpkins remain a gardener's favorite because they're so reliably easy to grow. Because seeds were cheap and pumpkins required so little effort to produce, Connecticut pumpkins made reliable feed for hogs and cattle. The pumpkins, which weren't considered a money crop, were often planted in corn fields, an effective use of precious acreage and hence its name. Things are different now, as Halloween is a lucrative holiday and pumpkins have become a multi-million dollar crop.

Burpees is a seed and plant company of generations of repute. Their introduction of Quaker pie pumpkin seeds solidifies their position as one of the leaders of home crop selection. Quaker pie pumpkin plant really did come from a Quaker homestead. What other surprises does this magnificent pumpkin have to reveal? Read a bit further for the history of Quaker pie pumpkins and details on its attributes.

History of Quaker Pie Pumpkins

Heirloom pie pumpkins come in all shapes and sizes, colors and textures. When it comes time to order my seed for the next year, I select a few tried and true varieties and then mix things up with something new. This year I tried growing heirloom pumpkins recommended to me by a friend. They were Quaker pie pumpkin plants and the results were stupendous. Regulated fruit appeared quickly in cookie cutter form and size. These pumpkins don't have a traditional Halloween pumpkin appearance but are just as exciting for their density, flavor and flesh colored skin. If you think the only pumpkin worth growing are the Jack-O-Lantern types, think again. Quaker pie is a small squash with smooth creamy, almost blushed skin and firm ivory flesh. They hail from a small Quaker farm where the seed was consistently saved and grown year from year. Somehow, the plants which grew in Washington County, New York were discovered by W. Atlee Burpee and introduced commercially in the late 1800's. Apparently, the strain was also transported to Africa by Quaker missionaries and several cultivars were created from the original parent. Today, one of the most popular offspring of the original Quaker pumpkin is this variety.

About Quaker Heirloom Pie Pumpkins

Pumpkin pie is a winter holiday staple. Some pumpkins are too seedy, stringy and lack flavor for a good sweet pie. Quaker heirloom pie pumpkins have sweet, creamy white, firm flesh with a hint of coconut flavor. It doesn't make the characteristic orange pumpkin pie but something with a twist and some tasty surprises. These easy-to-grow squash (yes, they are technically squash) can grow 15- to 18-foot long vines, so make sure they have space to ramble. The male squash flowers are huge, up to 8 inches when in full bloom, and an excellent source for stuffed blossoms. Even the leaves provide ornamental appeal with finely cut lobes and decorative gray mottling. Each squash will weigh in at an impressive 10 to 12 pounds, which is nothing to sneeze at when you consider the relatively small size of the fruit.

Growing Heirloom Pumpkins

Quakers require full sun and organically amended, well worked soil. Start seed indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost date or outside a couple of weeks after the last cold snap. Direct sow in hills with 6 to 8 seeds per dome. Provide plenty of water and watch for pests and mildew, two of the most common issues with squash. Try not to overhead water, as this increases the chance of powdery mildew, a disease which coats the foliage and diminishes photosynthesis. Harvest your pumpkins in around 120 days or when they are firm, creamy with a flesh tint and thump soundly. Pumpkins can be stored for up to a month in a cool, dry location or you can cook the flesh and freeze or can it for later use.

Alas, your glorious strong, healthy pumpkin plants are wilting and yellowing. There’s nothing as sad as having seemingly healthy plants one day and then almost overnight, witness drooping, discolored foliage. Before you can figure out a fix to the problem, it’s probably a good idea to get an idea of why pumpkin plants wilt.

Help! My Pumpkin Plants are Wilting!

There are several reasons for pumpkin plant wilt. The best way to figure out which one may be the cause of your wilting pumpkin plants is to rule out the simplest explanation first. Lack of water might be the reason for pumpkin leaves that are wilting. Although the large leaves aid in shading the soil and keeping roots cool, the plants still need water. During the heat of the summer, pumpkins need between 1 and 1 ½ inches (2.5-4 cm.) of water per week. Water the pumpkins deeply and slowly once a week at the base of the plant rather than overhead briefly each day. During extended heat waves, you may even need to water a bit more. It’s not unusual to see wilting pumpkin plants during the heat of the day, but this should be temporary. If you see that your pumpkins are wilting in the morning, they’re most likely water-stressed.

Diseases causing wilting pumpkin plants

Other reasons for pumpkin leaves wilting and yellowing are less benign than a simple lack of irrigation. In these cases, wilting is caused by disease and can get so severe that the plant will die.

• Bacterial wilt– Bacterial wilt is caused by Erwinia tracheiphila, a bacterium that is spread via the cucumber beetle. It invades the vascular system of the pumpkin, blocking water uptake. Usually it begins with one leaf and then spreads to the entire plant. If you suspect bacterial wilt, cut a stem at ground level. Hold the cut end to your finger. If sticky goo comes away when you remove your finger, you have bacterial wilt. Since this disease is caused by beetles, insect control is the best bet to thwart the disease before it assaults the entire pumpkin patch.
• Fusarium fungus– Fusarium crown rot is a fungal disease that lives in the soil and is spread through movement of wind, of you, of mechanical equipment, from critters, etc. The initial symptoms are yellowing of the foliage, followed by wilting and necrosis. The disease can overwinter in the soil and has no chemical control. The only thing to be done to combat crown rot is a lengthy crop rotation.
• Phytophthora blight– Phytophthora blight is another fungal disease that is an equal opportunity infection, attacking many types of veggies, not just pumpkins. Again, it overwinters nicely and lives indefinitely in the soil. It thrives in wet, cool fall weather. Primary symptoms are collapsing vines and pumpkins covered in a cottony mold. Again, the disease is spread through movement. Practice crop rotation and provide well-draining soil to fight this blight and use fungicides as directed. Pythium is also a fungal disease with similar symptoms and controls.

Pumpkin leaves wilting due to insects

While diseases are a factor as to why a pumpkin has wilting leaves, insects are also often responsible.

• Vine borers– Squash vine borer larvae love to feed on pumpkins at the base of a stem, resulting in yellowing and wilting of leaves. The resulting holes are often seen to be filled with the larvae green to orange poop. Once the larvae are munching away on the pumpkins, there is little you can do. Pull up any plants killed by the borers and if timing permits in your region, plant a second batch. The best way to quash the insects is to look for the adults buzzing around at the end of June, before they lay their eggs. Set yellow trap pans filled with water. The adults are attracted to yellow and will fly to the trap and get trapped in the water.
• Squash bugs– Squash bugs are another insect fond of snacking on your pumpkins. Again, their feeding causes yellowing and wilting foliage. The large, flattish adults overwinter in cozy niches and emerge in the spring to feed and lay eggs on squash foliage. They suck the sap out of foliage disrupting the flow of nutrients and water to the plant. Both eggs, nymphs, and adults may be present at any one time. Remove or knock off any nymphs and adults and drop them into soapy water. Look under leaves. Insecticides may also be used to manage squash bugs, especially if the plants are wilting early in the growing season.

Overall, pumpkins can be afflicted with a number of things that can cause wilting and yellowing. The best defense is to begin with healthy plants in well-draining soil amended with nutritious compost. Water consistently and practice proper fertilization. Keep a close eye on the plants to inspect for insects before they become a problem. Keep the area around the plants weed and plant detritus free. A healthy start will enable the plants to fight off or withstand any potential disease or insect attacks and give you time to facilitate a control plan.

Whether you are planting pumpkins for eventual carving with the kids or one of the delicious varieties for use in baking or canning, you’re bound to encounter problems with growing pumpkins. It might be an insect invasion or some other critter munching on the pumpkins, or it may be any one of a number of diseases of pumpkins threatening your crop. Pumpkin disease identification is of primary importance when treating pumpkin diseases. The following article contains information on pumpkin diseases and treatments.

Pumpkin Disease Identification

It is important to identify as soon as possible any diseases affecting the pumpkin crop. Early detection will enable you to treat the symptoms early on and, hopefully, save the crop. It is helpful to not only recognize the symptoms of infectious diseases but also to know how they spread and survive. Diseases afflicting pumpkins may be foliar in nature or diseases of the fruit. Foliar disease often opens the plant up to other infectious diseases as well as sunscald.

Pumpkin Diseases and Treatments

Foliar diseases of pumpkins commonly afflict pumpkin crops. Powdery mildew, downy mildew, white speck (Plectosporium), gummy stem blight, and anthracnose are the most common foliar disease culprits.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew looks exactly like what it sounds like. First seen on the lower leaf surface, powdery mildew is a white “powdery” covering of spores that move from the lower leaf surface to the upper, eventually defoliating the pumpkin plants. Spores survive among the soil and crop residue, and are dispersed via wind. It is one of the easiest diseases to identify and unlike other foliar diseases, tends to increase in severity during periods of dry weather. To combat powdery mildew, rotate with non-cucurbit crops and treat with fungicide at the first sign.

Downy mildew

Downy mildew is seen as lesions on the upper surface of the foliage. Initially, the lesions are yellow spots or angular water soaked areas. The lesions become necrotic as the disease progresses. Cool, wet conditions foster this disease. Again, the spores are dispersed via wind. Broad spectrum fungicides are somewhat effective against downy mildew. Planting early season varieties can also reduce the chances of downy mildew infiltrating the crop, as the disease is generally more common late in the growing season when conditions are cool and rains are more likely.

Anthracnose, White speck, Gummy stem blight

Anthracnose begins as small, light brown spots outlined with a darker margin that expands as it progresses. Eventually, the leaves develop small holes and fruit may show lesions as well. White speck, or Plectosporium, also appears as tan spindle shaped lesions on the surface of the leaves. Fruit can become afflicted, showing tiny white spots that are more circular in shape than the diamond shaped leaf lesions. Gummy stem blight affects most cucurbits and is caused by both Didymella bryoniae and Phoma cucurbitacearum. This disease is most common in the southern United States. Fungicide applications at the first sign of any of these diseases will aid in reducing and combating them.

Additional Disease Problems with Growing Pumpkins

Black rot

Black rot caused by Didymella bryoniae, the same fungus that causes gummy stem blight, results in large gray blotches on the fruit that become black rotted areas. Warm, humid summer nights favor black rot. Spores are dispersed through water and wind. There are no disease resistant varieties. Treating this pumpkin disease with cultural control alone is insufficient. Combine crop rotation, planting of non-susceptible crops, fall tillage, and fallowing areas with a history of the disease with chemical control. Fungicides should be applied in 10 to 14 day intervals beginning when the vines have a heavy canopy of leaves.

Fusarium crown rot

Although the names are similar, fusarium crown rot is unrelated to fusarium wilt. Wilting is a sign of crown rot along with yellowing of the entire plant. Over a two to four week period, the plant eventually decays. Leaves will be marked with water soaked or necrotic areas while fruit symptoms vary, depending upon the fusarium pathogen. Yet again, the spores survive in the soil for long periods of time and are spread through the use of farm equipment. There are no disease resistant varieties. Crop rotation will slow the fusarium pathogen population. There are no chemical controls for this disease.

Sclerotinia rot

Sclerotinia rot is a cool season disease that affects many types of vegetables. The pathogen produces sclerotia that can survive in the soil indefinitely. Cool temps and high relative humidity foster the development of a white, cottony mold around water soaked infected areas. Black sclerotia grow among the mold and are the size of watermelon seeds. The whole plant, including the fruit, rots. Spores are spread through wind. There are no disease resistant pumpkin varieties. Fungicides can be effective if applied to young plants.

Phytophthora blight

Phytophthora blight is a serious disease caused by a fungal pathogen that can reside in the soil indefinitely and spread rapidly. Primary symptoms can be viewed on the fruit and spreads to the vines. A soft rot combined with an expanding area of white, cottony mold is seen. It also afflicts many other crops. Phytophthora blight is most severe when late summer is cool and wet. Spores are dispersed through water splash, wind, and equipment use. There are no disease resistant varieties of pumpkin. Crop rotation may reduce the severity of the disease for future crops as well as avoiding planting in soil that drains poorly or tends towards standing water. Fungicide applications can reduce losses.

Bacterial fruit spot

Bacterial fruit spot is common amongst pumpkins and other fall squash. It presents as small lesions on the fruit. The foliage does have small, dark, angular lesions but they are difficult to detect. Fruit lesions occur in clusters and are scab like. They enlarge, becoming blisters that eventually flatten. Bacteria are spread in infested crop residue, contaminated seed, and water splash. Rotate crops with non-cucurbit crops. Apply copper spray during early formation of the fruit to reduce the incidence of bacterial fruit spot.

Viruses

There are also a number of viral diseases such as cucumber mosaic virus, papaya ring spot virus, squash mosaic virus, and zucchini yellow mosaic virus that can afflict pumpkins. Foliage of virus infected plants tend to be mottled and distorted. Plants that are infected early in development or near or before the bloom time are most seriously affected and produce fewer fruit. Fruit that does develop is often misshapen. If the plant is infected once the pumpkins have attained full size, there is rarely any effect on the quality of the fruit. Viruses survive in weed hosts or are spread via insect vectors, usually aphids. Late pumpkins have a greater chance of becoming infected with a virus, so plant early maturing varieties. Keep the area weeded to reduce the chance of infection.

Why do my pumpkins keep falling off the vine? Pumpkin fruit drop is a frustrating state of affairs for sure, and determining the cause of the problem isn’t always an easy task because there may be a number of things to blame. Read on to learn about troubleshooting causes of dropping pumpkin fruit.

Reasons for Pumpkin Fruit Drop

Pollination problems

Poor pollination is probably the most common reason for pumpkins falling off the vine, as the window of time for pollination is very narrow – about four to six hours. If pollination doesn’t occur during that time, the blooms will close for good, never to be pollinated. To get around this problem, remove a male blossom and rub the stamen directly on the female bloom. This should be done in the early morning. How to tell the difference? Male blooms generally appear a week or two before female blooms – generally at a rate of two or three male blooms for each female bloom. The pollen, which is in the center stamen, will come off on your fingers if the male flower is mature enough to pollinate the female. The female bloom is easy to spot by the tiny round fruit that appears at the base of the bloom. If the tiny fruit begins to grow, you know pollination has successfully taken place. On the other hand, without pollination, the little fruit will soon wither and drop off the vine.

Fertilizer issues

Although nitrogen is helpful in the early stages of plant growth, too much nitrogen later on can put baby pumpkins at risk. Cutting back on nitrogen will prompt the plant to direct its energy into producing fruit instead of foliage. A balanced fertilizer is fine at planting time, but after the plant is established and blooms appear, apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer with an NPK ratio such as 0-20-20, 8-24-24, or 5-15-15. (The first number, N, stands for nitrogen.)

Stress

Excess humidity or high temperatures can create stress that may cause dropping pumpkin fruits. There isn’t much you can do about the weather, but proper fertilization and regular irrigation can make the plants more stress-resistant. A layer of mulch will help keep the roots moist and cool.

Blossom end rot

This problem, which begins as a watery spot on the blossom end of the small pumpkin, is due to a lack of calcium. Eventually, the pumpkin may drop from the plant. There are several ways to get around this problem. Once again, avoid high nitrogen fertilizers that can tie up calcium in the soil. Keep the soil evenly moist, watering at the base of the soil, if possible, to keep the foliage dry. A soaker hose or drip irrigation system simplifies the task. You may need to treat the plants with a commercial calcium solution formulated for blossom end rot. However, this is usually only a temporary fix.

So, your pumpkin vine is glorious, large, and healthy looking with deep green leaves and it’s even been flowering. There’s one problem. You see no sign of fruit. Do pumpkins self-pollinate? Or should you give the plant a hand and, if so, how to hand pollinate pumpkins? The following article contains information about the pollination of pumpkin plants and hand-pollinating pumpkins.

Pumpkin Plant Pollination

Before you panic about the lack of fruit, let’s talk about pumpkin plant pollination. First off, pumpkins, like other cucurbits, have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. That means that it takes two to make fruit. Pollen must be moved from the male flower to the female. The first blooms to appear are male and they remain on the plant for a day and then fall off. Do NOT panic. Female flowers bloom within the week or so and males will continue to bloom as well.

Do Pumpkins Self-Pollinate?

The simple answer is no. They need bees or, in some cases, you to pollinate. Male flowers produce nectar and pollen, and females have higher quantities of nectar but no pollen. Bees visit the male flowers where the large, sticky granules of pollen adhere to them. They then move on to the heavenly nectar produced by the females and, voila, the transfer is complete. The quality of the fruit is improved by increased pollinator activity. Now, for a number of reasons, despite the presence of both male and female flowers, the pollination of the pumpkin plants doesn’t seem to be happening. Perhaps broad-spectrum pesticides have been in use nearby or too much rain or heat is keeping the bees inside. Either way, hand-pollinating pumpkins may be in your future.

How to Hand Pollinate Pumpkins

Before you can start hand pollinating the pumpkin plant, you need to identify the female and male blooms. On a female, look at where the stem meets the flower. You will see what looks like a small fruit. This is the ovary. Male flowers are shorter, lack immature fruit, and usually bloom in clusters. There are two methods to hand pollinating, both simple. Using a small, delicate paintbrush or a cotton swab, touch the anther in the center of the male flower. The swab or brush will pick up pollen. Then touch the swab or brush to the female flower’s stigma at the center of the bloom. You can also remove the male flower and shake it over the female to release the granules of pollen or remove the male and all its petals to create a natural “brush” with the pollen-laden anther. Then just touch the anther to the female flower’s stigma. That’s it! Once pollination has occurred, the ovary begins to swell as the fruit develops. If fertilization did not occur, the ovary will wither away, but I have every confidence that you will be a successful hand pollinator.

Do you have white, powdery mildew on your pumpkin leaves? You’re in good company; so do I. What causes white pumpkin leaves and how can you get rid of that powdery mildew on your pumpkins? Keep reading to find out more about treating powdery mildew on pumpkin plants.

What Causes White Pumpkin Leaves?

The reason we have powdery mildew on our pumpkin leaves is due to a leaf-infecting disease that is very common. The name is, in fact, “powdery mildew” and is given to a group of diseases caused by related fungi. Each one has a different host, but they all share the same appearance – a grayish white, powdery carpet that can be seen on leaves, stems, and flowers. Unlike other fungal diseases, powdery mildew thrives in warm conditions and does not require moisture to grow.

How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Pumpkins

While powdery mildew on pumpkins looks unpleasant, the good news is that a mild case isn’t fatal. That said, if left untreated, the disease will likely spread. Powdery mildew first appears as white, powdery spots. These spots gradually spread and a pumpkin that is severely affected may have a reduced yield, shorter growth time, and pumpkins with little flavor. Before learning about treating powdery mildew on pumpkins, it’s a good idea to learn a little about its life cycle. In the spring, fungi begin to produce spores, which are then dispersed into the air. When they contact an appropriate host and conditions are suitable, they infect the plant. The initial white spots continue to expand and join as the infection progresses. The fungus overwinters on plant debris and then when the weather warms over 60 degrees F. (16 C.), the cycle starts all over again. Although powdery mildew doesn’t require watery conditions to germinate, high humidity is a factor. High humidity fosters spore formation. Temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees F. (15-26 C.), shade, and high humidity are premium conditions for powdery mildew. If the powdery mildew on the pumpkins seems to be minimal, remove the infected leaves, vines, or blossoms. Depending upon when the infection set in, this may give the plant enough time to complete the production of its pumpkins. If conditions are still favorable for the growth of powdery mildew, it will likely reappear again. Cucurbits, like pumpkins, are highly susceptible to this disease. Plant them in full sun, allow for good air circulation, and avoid excess fertilizer to try and thwart the disease. Use a slow-release fertilizer. It is likely that they will need an application of fungicide, however. Fungicides fall into the categories of protectants, eradicants, or both. There are two oils that work best as eradicants but have some protectant quality as well – neem oil and jojoba oil. Other horticultural oil brands may also be used. Don’t spray within two weeks of a sulfur spray or when temps are above 90 degrees F. (32 C.). Sulfur has been used for centuries to manage powdery mildew in pumpkins and other cucurbits but must be used BEFORE disease symptoms appear. Don’t apply sulfur when it is near or over 90 degrees F. (32 C.) or within two weeks of an oil spray. Lastly, you can try a biological fungicide (Serenade), which contains beneficial microorganisms that destroy fungal pathogens. It is nontoxic to people and pets and kills the powdery mildew pathogen but isn’t as effective as oil or sulfur.

Growing pumpkins can be a high-risk operation, especially if you’re after a real giant. Big pumpkins can take all summer to grow, and the last thing you want is for your prize specimen to fall victim to pumpkin insect pests. Keep reading to learn about pumpkin insect problems and pumpkin insect control.

Pumpkin Insect Problems

Pumpkins are a favorite food of quite a few insects, and pests on pumpkins can be a real problem. Most, however, are treatable or at least preventable. Here are the most common bugs on pumpkin plants and how to treat them:

• Beetles – Beetles are the most common but easily treated pests on pumpkins. Spray your vines with a mild pesticide and they should disappear.
• Snails and slugs – Snails and slugs love to eat the tender flesh of very young, giant pumpkins. Put a ring of epsom salt or sand around your pumpkin-- the pumpkin insect pests won't cross it. Once your pumpkin’s skin has hardened, the bugs won’t be able to puncture it and won’t be a problem anymore.
• Squash bugs – Squash bugs can destroy stems and leaves and require pumpkin insect control in the form of Carbaryl, as an effective insecticide.
• Vine borers – Serious pumpkin insect problems can be caused by vine borers. These creatures burrow deep into pumpkin vines and suck away their moisture. If you find one, you may be able to save your vine by digging the bug out and burying the damaged part of the vine in the ground to encourage it to take root. This is dangerous business though, and not always successful. The best thing to do is take preventative measures by spraying the entire vine with a strong pesticide.
• Aphids – Aphids are pests on pumpkins that don’t necessarily do damage except in large numbers when they can yellow leaves and produce a nasty, sticky substance called honeydew. Even in small numbers, however, they can spread diseases among pumpkin plants. Light insecticides should kill off an aphid infestation, but they can also be combatted by a strong spray of water, the introduction of natural predators like ladybugs, and the installation of reflective mulch.

Whether you’re after the great pumpkin that will win first prize at the fair, or lots of smaller ones for pies and decorations, growing the perfect pumpkin is an art form. You spend all summer tending your vine, and you want to get the most out of it that you can. Fertilizing pumpkins is essential, as they will devour nutrients and run with them. Keep reading to learn more about pumpkin fertilizer requirements.

Fertilizer for Pumpkins

Pumpkins are heavy feeders and will eat up whatever you give them. Different nutrients promote different kinds of growth, however, so when fertilizing pumpkins, it’s important to pay attention to what stage of growth your pumpkin is in and feed it accordingly. Commercial fertilizers come with three numbers on their packaging. These numbers represent nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, always in that order. When feeding pumpkin plants, apply three successive fertilizers, each heavy in one of those numbers, in that same order. Nitrogen promotes green growth, making for plenty of vines and leaves. Apply a weekly nitrogen-heavy fertilizer early in the growing season to produce a healthy plant. Once the flowers start to form, switch to a phosphorus-heavy fertilizer for plentiful blossoms. When the actual pumpkins appear, use a potassium-rich fertilizer for healthy fruit.

Feeding Pumpkin Plants

Fertilizer is important, but sometimes a little can go a long way. Nitrogen promotes growth, but if you add too much, you risk burning your leaves or reducing flower growth. Similarly, too much potassium can sometimes encourage pumpkins to grow faster than they’re meant to and cause them to explode right out of their skins! Apply your fertilizer in moderation and wait to see what results a little gets you before adding a lot. If you’re new to growing pumpkins, a very basic and balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer applied moderately all through the growing season is much less intensive and should still yield good results.

If you are of a certain age, you may be very familiar with a wide variety of squash and edible pumpkins for cooking. If you are more recently hatched, Starbucks pumpkin spice latte and jack o’ lanterns may be as far as your acquaintance has gone. However, with the burgeoning popularity of farmer’s markets and personal gardening, a wide array of pumpkin varieties for eating is available. Let’s take a look at some of the different types of pumpkins for cooking.

Pumpkins for Food

Native Americans have long used edible pumpkins for cooking in everything from bread to soups and taught the newly arrived colonists many of their culinary tricks. Pumpkins can be grilled, baked, broiled, steamed or roasted whole in hot embers as the native people once did. Pumpkins used for food differs from those bred for Halloween carving. Those pumpkins are bred to be large, mostly hollow, and flat bottomed. The flesh, however, doesn’t hold a candle to most of the pumpkin varieties for eating. It is watery and bland, although the seeds are excellent toasted. Decorative pumpkins of this ilk include Howdon Biggy and Connecticut Field. Pumpkins bred for food offer robust flavor, color, and nutrition. These cucurbit family members contain dietary fiber, vitamins A and C, riboflavin, potassium, copper, manganese, Vitamins E and B6, thiamin, niacin, folate, iron, calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus! Wow, all with very little fat or calories!

Best Pumpkins to Eat

The question of which are the best pumpkins to eat is a bit tricky. Why? Because the term pumpkin is a catch-all word that encompasses several types of winter squash. For example, Cucurbita moschata encompasses butternut squash, but it also includes the buff-colored Dickinson pumpkin, apparently “the pumpkin of choice for Libby’s canned pumpkins.” This means that the types of pumpkins for cooking are really just hard-skinned squash. Take the more recently marketed Jack-Be-Little. This palm-sized specimen was introduced in 1986 and is most likely a forgotten acorn squash cultivar; it looks like a miniature pumpkin but tastes like acorn squash. Other small pumpkins that are delicious include Baby Pam, the white Baby Boo and New England Pie.

Types of Pumpkins for Cooking

• Cheese pumpkin – The Cheese pumpkin (moschata) is a squat, pale pumpkin more often used in displays of fall produce but it makes an excellent baking vessel and can be used as a serving tureen.
• Cinderella pumpkin – Cinderella pumpkin looks just like the pumpkin that transformed into Cinderella’s coach. It has thick, sweet, custard-like flesh.
• Jarrahdale pumpkin – Jarrahdale pumpkins hale from Jarrahdale, New Zealand and have a melon-like aroma with firm, bright orange, fairly stringless flesh.
• Lumina pumpkin – Lumina pumpkin is named for its ghostly white mien. It is great for baking as well as carving or painting.
• Peanut pumpkin – Peanut pumpkin looks a bit like a peanut with its warty exterior but is actually a squash from France where it is called the Galeux d’Eysines. It has sweet, orange flesh perfect for soups and is an old heirloom variety.
• Pie pumpkin – Pie pumpkin encompasses several pumpkin varieties grown for eating not ornamentation. They are usually smaller and denser than carving pumpkins. Red Warty is a cross between a red Hubbard squash and pie pumpkin with delicious sweet flesh. The lovely reddish hue makes it a beautiful pumpkin used as decoration although the bumpy skin makes it hard to carve.
• One-Too-Many pumpkins – One-Too-Many, so named for their resemblances to the red face flush of a chronic drunk, are creamy with pale red veins that darken to a deeper red. They make great pie or can be used for carving or decoration.

And don’t forget those pumpkin seeds! They are loaded with fiber and protein. The oil from the seeds of the ‘Styrian Hulless’ pumpkin from Austria is touted for its dark, rich, flavor loaded with heart-healthy fats.

A common problem when growing pumpkins is…no pumpkins. It’s not all that unusual and there are several reasons for a pumpkin plant that is not producing. The primary reason for healthy, glorious pumpkin vines but no pumpkins is lack of pollination. So how can you tell if your pumpkin got pollinated?

How Can You Tell if Your Pumpkin Got Pollinated?

Chances are good that if the vines have been completely devoid of fruit, the culprit is likely pollination or rather lack of it. If you did see some small fruit, they may have aborted due to a stressor such as hot, humid weather, lack of water, or some critter decided to munch on them. Pumpkins are members of the Cucurbit family, which includes squash, cantaloupe, watermelon, and cucumbers. All of these members rely on bees for pollination. They produce both male and female flowers. Male flowers appear first, so if you see the pumpkin vine flowering but no fruit and it’s early in the season, don’t panic. It may just be a matter of waiting for the female flowers. Female flowers appear further down the vine and may not show for up to two weeks after the appearance of the males. It’s easy to tell the difference between the male and female blossoms. Male flowers are borne straight off the vine while females have a small fruit swelling at the base near the stem. Males are produced first to entice bees into programming them into their pollen route. If the weather is overly hot and humid early in the season, some plants delay the production of female flowers. If the pumpkin delays female blossoming, late sets often do not have time to develop before the days shorten and colder weather sets in. Also, too much nitrogen in the soil can result in the production of primarily male pumpkin vine flowering or even lush, healthy pumpkin vines but no flowers or pumpkins. The Dewilde Trading Co Store PH and Nitrogen Soil Test Kit from Amazon can test nitrogen levels. If, however, you’ve checked and have both male and female flowers and it’s late in the season, there was probably an issue with pollination.

Additional Reasons Why a Pumpkin Plant Flowers but Sets No Fruit

As mentioned, weather may be why a pumpkin plant flowers but sets no fruit. Not only heat, but drought stress often causes the pumpkin to develop more male flowers and delay females. Flooded soil will also damage root systems, causing wilting and flower or fruit abortion. Planting too close together increases shade, which will affect how and when the pumpkin flowers. Close competition also makes it difficult for bees to get to the blossoms. The shaded areas may be under pollinated because it is cooler. Bees get lazy when it’s below 60 degrees F. (15 C.) and temps in shaded areas may be too cool to entice them. Pumpkin flowers are only open for about six hours beginning at sun up. Bees only have this window of time to move the pollen from male to female blossoms and several visits to the female need to occur for successful pollination (one visit every 15 minutes!). Windy, stormy weather also keeps the bees in bed, so reduced fruit sets occur. To increase the likelihood of successful pollination, you can try your hand at it, literally. Hand pollination may be the way to go. Hand pollinate before 10 a.m. on a day when a female flower is about to open. You may need to keep an eye on them for a few days. Select a male flower and touch the stamen with your finger to see if the pollen comes off. If it does, the pollen is ready. You can use a soft brush or cotton swab or remove the entire male flower to transfer the pollen from the stamen of the male to the stigma of the female. If all goes well, meaning the weather cooperates, the plant gets six to eight hours of sun and consistent water, hand pollination is a fairly sure way to correct a pumpkin plant that is not producing.

Plants that grow well with pumpkins are good pumpkin companion plants. Planting a pumpkin with companion plants isn’t intended to combat vegetable loneliness, but rather to help it grow better, either because companions meet the pumpkin plant’s needs in some way, or because the companions keep pumpkin pests away. If you are planting pumpkins in your garden, it pays to learn something about companion planting with pumpkins. Read on for more information about plants that grow well with pumpkins.

Pumpkin Growing Companions

The first time you hear about pumpkin companion plants, you may feel confused about what companion planting means and how it can aid in the garden. Companion planting with pumpkins or other vegetables involves grouping together garden plants that help each other to grow. Plants may be classified as good companions in the garden if they attract beneficial insects like pollinators into the area. Certain herbs and flowers attract beneficial insects such as:

• Thyme
• Sage
• Mint
• Cosmos
• Lavender

Other plants contain substances in their roots or foliage that repel insect pests. The strong odor of some plants, like garlic and onion, can disguise the odor of plants like roses, keeping insect pests away.

Companion Planting with Pumpkins

A variety of plants work well as pumpkin growing companions either because they help the pumpkin plant stay healthy and productive, or because the pumpkin plants aid them in some way, or both. One typical example of companion planting with pumpkins is interspersing corn, beans, and pumpkins in the same bed. The beans can use the cornstalks as support structures to climb up, while the massed foliage of pumpkins keeps down the weeds. Melon and squash are also beneficial as pumpkin companion plants. Some plants that grow well with pumpkins are beneficial because they enhance the vegetable’s flavor. Marjoram, if used as one of the pumpkin growing companions, is said to produce better tasting pumpkins. Nasturtiums keep bugs and beetles away. Marigold, oregano, and dill all repel destructive insects, like the dreaded squash bug.

Plants to Exclude as Pumpkin Growing Companions

Not every plant will be good for companion planting with pumpkins. Intercropping the wrong species can cause your pumpkins growing problems. For example, experts tell gardeners not to plant pumpkin near potatoes.

When I was a kid, I looked forward to going to the state fair at the end of the summer. I loved the food, the rides, all the animals, but the thing I most clamored about seeing was the blue ribbon winning giant pumpkin. They were amazing (and still are). The winning grower of these leviathans often stated that to attain such great size, they fed the pumpkin milk. Is this true? Does using milk to grow pumpkins work? If so, how do you grow giant milk fed pumpkins?

Growing Pumpkins with Milk

If you do a search regarding feeding pumpkins with milk, you will find quite a bit of information with about a 50/50 split on the veracity of using milk to grow pumpkins. Milk does have vitamins and minerals, with calcium being the most touted. Most kids are given milk to drink with the idea that it will make them grow up strong and healthy. Of course, there is some dissension over whether cow’s milk is really very good for kids, but I digress. Given that pumpkins need calcium and other micronutrients, it seems to be a no brainer that growing pumpkins with milk will definitely boost their size. In this case, there are some problems with the idea of feeding pumpkins with milk. First of all, although I don’t have any kids in the house, I do have a rabid milk drinker. Therefore, I am very much aware of how much milk costs. Liquid fertilizers such as fish emulsion, seaweed fertilizer, compost or manure tea, or even Miracle-Grow will all add calcium and micronutrients into the pumpkin vine and at a significantly lower cost. Secondly, when feeding milk to a pumpkin, one of the most common methods is by making a slit in the vine and feeding a wicking material from a container of milk into this slit. The problem here is that you have just injured the vine and, like any injury, it is now open to disease and pests. Lastly, have you ever smelled spoiled milk? Try putting a container of milk out in the late summer in the hot sun. I’m betting it won’t take long to spoil. Ugh.

How to Grow a Giant Milk Fed Pumpkin

Since I have read both positive and negative reviews on feeding giant pumpkins milk, I suppose if you have the means and an inquisitive mind, it might be fun to try growing a pumpkin goliath by milk feeding. So, here’s how to grow a giant milk fed pumpkin. First, select the variety of pumpkin you want to grow. It makes sense to plant a giant variety like “Atlantic Giant” or “Big Max.” If you are growing pumpkins from seed, choose a spot in full sun that has been amended with compost or composted manure. Make a hill that is 18 inches (45 cm.) across and 4 inches (10 cm.) tall. Sow four seeds to a depth of one inch (2.5 cm.) in the hill. Keep the soil moist. When the seedlings are around 4 inches (10 cm.) tall, thin out to the most vigorous plant. When the fruit is the size of a grapefruit, remove all branches but the one which the healthiest specimen is growing. Also, remove any other blossoms or fruit from your remaining vine. Now you are ready to milk feed the pumpkin. It doesn’t seem to matter what type of milk you use, whole or 2% should work equally. Sometimes, people don’t use milk at all but a mixture of water and sugar and still refer to milk feeding their pumpkin. Some people add sugar to the milk. Use a lidded container, like a milk jug or Mason jar. Select a wicking material, either actual wick or a cotton fabric that will absorb the milk and filter it into the pumpkin stem. Punch a hole the width of the wicking material into the lid of the container. Fill the container with milk and feed the wick through the hole. Using a sharp knife, cut a shallow slit on the underside of the chosen pumpkin vine. Very carefully and gently, ease the wick that is in the container of milk into the slit. Wrap the slit with gauze to hold the wick in place. That’s it! You are now feeding the pumpkin with milk. Refill the container with milk as needed and also give the pumpkin one inch (2.5 cm.) of regular irrigation per week. An even easier method is to just “water” the pumpkin each day with a cup of milk. The best of luck to those of you milk feeding pumpkins. For the doubters amongst us, there’s always liquid chelated calcium, which I hear is a guaranteed blue ribbon winner!

Your pumpkin vines are scrambling all over the place, with huge healthy leaves and vigorous growth. Sadly though, there is nary a bloom in sight. If you are concerned about non-blooming pumpkin plants, you may simply have looked away for a day or it is too early. Some other considerations are soil nutrients and possible diseases. Don’t fret, there are some tricks to getting pumpkin blossoms and harvesting big, beautiful fruit. Fertilizers and some homemade sprays may be just the tip on how to get blooms on pumpkins that are reticent to flower.

My Pumpkin Plant is Not Flowering

What could cause non-blooming pumpkin plants? The most common reason is impatience. Pumpkin plants flower after plants have established and developed several vital stems. When do pumpkin plants flower? The actual time will depend upon when you installed them outdoors, the variety, and your climate. As a rule, start looking for blooms six to eight weeks after you set the plants outside. Next, let’s talk about sex – between flowers that is. Pumpkin plants bear both male and female flowers (same as squash) and each is necessary for pollination and fruit. The first flowers to appear are male blooms. Females follow 10 to 14 days later. If you do not see any flowers, it may simply be because you are not looking often enough. Each bloom lasts only a day and is generally only open in the morning. The early male flowers will usually fall off almost immediately if no females are present to pollinate. You have to have a sharp eye to spot the earliest flowers. Amid the tangled mass of stems, it is easy to overlook some flowers. You might also be expecting flowers too early. Vines should be several feet (1 m.) long before the first bright yellow flowers appear. Answering the question, “when do pumpkin plants flower?” requires knowledge of soil, sun exposure, zone, variety, and many more factors. Each influences the plant’s drive to bloom. You can enhance blooming by controlling soil fertility and giving the plant additional nutrients that promote flowering. Pumpkin plants are very sensitive to overhead watering. Several fungal diseases can attack the leaves and even the buds as they form. Heavily infested buds may simply abort, leaving you with a bloomless plant. Soil fertility is a common reason when a pumpkin plant is not flowering. While potassium is the macro-nutrient that drives the overall functions of a plant, if it’s lacking, this can affect blooming. It comes in the form of potash or other potassium compounds found in flower and fruit food. Phosphorus is generally responsible for flower and fruit production. Suspend nitrogen applications six to eight weeks after planting the vines. In soils with plenty of organic matter, the vines should have enough nutrients to produce the rampant stems.

How to Get Blooms on Pumpkins

Getting pumpkin blossoms on reticent plants can be achieved with fertilizer. Controlling the level of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus will spur flower production. Nitrogen produces green leafy growth while phosphorus drives root formation and bloom production. Potassium also aids with blooming but helps plants develop healthy immune systems for stronger growth too. Professional flower growers rely upon “bloom foods” containing high levels of phosphorus and potassium to grow award winning flowers. Amending the soil with some potash and/or bone meal OR applying a high phosphorus/potassium plant food (foliar spray or granular feed) could help the plant start pumping out flowers. Be patient because the magic won’t happen overnight. After feeding, give the plant a week or more to uptake the food and use it to create buds, flowers, and, finally, those gorgeous pumpkins.

Pumpkins are a versatile, flavorful winter squash, and they’re surprisingly easy to grow. Often, the hardest part of growing pumpkins is deciding which type of pumpkin is best suited for your particular needs and available growing space. Read on to learn about different kinds of pumpkins, and common pumpkin varieties.

Pumpkin Varieties and Types

Mini pumpkin varieties, weighing in at 2 pounds (1 kg.) or less, are easy to grow and perfect for decorating. Small pumpkins ranging from 2 to 8 pounds (1-4 kg.) and midsize pumpkins weighing 8 to 15 pounds (4-7 kg.) are ideal for pies and great for painting or carving. At 15 to 25 pounds (7-11 kg.) and up, big pumpkins are often good for pies and make impressive jack o’ lanterns. Giant pumpkin varieties, which weigh at least 50 pounds (23 kg.) and often much, much more, tend to be tough and stringy and are usually grown for exclusive bragging rights.

Mini Pumpkin Varieties

• Baby Boo – Creamy white, edible or decorative on creeping vines
• Bumpkin – Bright orange pumpkin, compact vines
• Munchkin – Bright orange ornamental pumpkin, climbing vines
• Baby Pam – Bright, deep orange on vigorous vines
• Casperita – Larger mini with attractive white rind, resistant to powdery mildew
• Crunchkin – Medium orange, flecked with yellow, slightly flat shape, large vines
• We-Be-Little – Bright orange, baseball-size on compact, bush-like vines
• Hooligan – Orange mottled with green and white, excellent ornamental on compact vines

Small Pumpkin Varieties

• Cannon Ball – Smooth, round, rusty orange, powdery mildew-resistant
• Blanco – Round, pure white on medium vines
• Early Abundance – Uniform round shape, dark orange color on full vines
• Mischief – Round, deep orange, semi-vining plants
• Spooktacular – Smooth, deep orange on large, aggressive vines
• Triple Treat – Round, bright orange, ideal for pies or carving
• Trickster – Deep orange, great for decorating or pies, semi-bush vines

Midsize Pumpkin Varieties

• Autumn Gold – Round/rectangular shape, deep orange rind, vigorous vines
• Bushkin – Light yellow rind, compact plant
• Spirit – Round, bright orange on short vines
• Young’s Beauty – Hard rind, dark orange, large vines
• Ghost Rider – Dark orange fruit on large vines, highly productive vines
• Jackpot – Glossy, round, medium orange on compact vines

Big Pumpkin Varieties

• Aladdin – Dark orange, resistant to powdery mildew, vigorous vines are semi-full
• Dependable – Tall, round, bright orange on large, vigorous vines
• Full Moon – Smooth, white
• Gladiator – Round, deep orange on vigorous vines
• Happy Jack – Dark orange, symmetrical shape
• Cinderella – Globe-shaped, yellow orange, compact vines
• Jumpin’ Jack – Tall, deep orange on large, vigorous vines

Giant Pumpkin Varieties

• Big Moose – Reddish orange, round to oval shape on large, vigorous vines
• Big Max – Rough, reddish orange skin, nearly round on very large vines
• Mammoth Gold – Orange rind mottled with pink, rounded shape, large vines
• Prizewinner – Dark orange, standard pumpkin shape on very large vines
• Dill’s Atlantic Giant – Yellow orange, round on huge plants

'Tis the season of pumpkins! Jack-o’-lanterns are a staple of Halloween and pumpkin pies are a must for your Thanksgiving dinner, so many homes are going to have more pumpkin seeds than they know what to do with. Yes, you can save pumpkin seeds for planting next fall, but what about the rest?

The simple answer is to eat them! They are healthy and delicious. If this idea is new to you, you may wonder how to eat pumpkin seeds? Read on to learn more.

Health Benefits of Pumpkin Seeds

Seeds have long been touted as rich in nutrients and a great addition to any diet. Does this include pumpkin seeds? It does, indeed.

Pumpkin seeds are not just edible, but they are a great source of fiber and protein, as well as rich in minerals. Most of us could use more iron, zinc, magnesium as well as unsaturated fats. Look no further than eating pumpkin seeds.

How to Harvest Pumpkin Seeds

When we are talking about “harvesting” pumpkin seeds, it’s easier than one might think. If are growing your own pumpkins for Halloween fun or Thanksgiving desserts, you can easily harvest the seeds by simply means removing them from the pumpkins.

Whether you cut the top off the pumpkin and hollow it out for a Jack-o’-lantern or cut it in half to remove the pulp for a pie, you’ll need to remove the innards, meaning the seeds and the slimy goo around them. Use a large spoon or other kitchen utensil, then put all of the slippery pumpkin “guts” in a large bowl of water. Separate the seeds by rubbing the material with your hands. Remove the seeds from the bowl and wash them in fresh water.

How to Prepare Pumpkin Seeds to Bake

After separating the pumpkin seeds and rinsing them, the next stage is drying them. One easy way to do this is to put them on a paper towel in a sunny window.

A faster way is to put the seeds in a pan in the oven at a low temperature – say 150 degrees F – for several hours. Stir them often to make sure all sections dry.

How to Roast Pumpkin Seeds

While some like to eat pumpkin seeds raw, the more common use of pumpkin seeds is to roast them before snacking. To do this, use a cookie sheet covered with oven paper. Place the seeds on the cookie sheet, spreading them out. Spray olive oil or another cooking oil over the seeds, then pop the sheet into the over, preheat for about 10 or 15 minutes. Wait for them to toast a golden brown, stirring them every few minutes.

Personalize your roasted pumpkin seeds by adding different seasonings that make you happy. Some popular flavor-adding seasonings include lemon pepper, sea salt, garlic salt, and Cajun seasoning. Add these to the seeds before roasting.

Tasty Ways to Eat Pumpkin Seeds

How do you eat pumpkin seeds? Your homemade pumpkin seeds will be perfect for snacks or cooking. Many people like to munch on the unshelled seeds – a very healthy alternative. You can also think of them as sunflower seeds, and just separate the shell from the seed in your mouth and discard the shell.

Other options? Toss roasted pumpkin seeds into granola, trail mix, or on top of dinner salads or soups. Hull the seeds and use the green inner seeds for baking. Make your pesto using hulled pumpkin seeds instead of pine nuts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Warty pumpkins are a hot trend, and this year’s most prized jack o’ lanterns may very well be made from warty pumpkins. What causes warts on pumpkins and are bumpy pumpkins edible? Let’s learn more.

What Causes Warts on Pumpkins?

While many people desire a smooth, unblemished pumpkin to carve for Halloween, others love the look of the recently introduced warty pumpkin varieties. No, these aren’t afflicted with some heinous disease; they are actually genetically engineered to create bumpy pumpkin fruit. It is actually natural and not unusual for pumpkins to have bumps, but years of selective breeding have weeded out this natural tendency until what we view as the norm are unblemished pumpkins.

Over the course of ten years of selective breeding, the brand Super Freak has released their most wart-riddled pumpkins to date, Knuckle Head pumpkins. These are genetically designed to be 12-16 pounds (5.5 to 7.5 kg.) of lumpy, bumpy, perfectly sized for carving especially, and deliciously creepy. Gargoyle and Goosebumps are other varieties of warty pumpkin.

Other Reasons for Bumpy Pumpkin Fruit

If you're certain that you aren't growing a variety of bumpy pumpkin fruit, then the issue may be viral. Mosaic virus can turn a smooth pumpkin into a lumpy one. The lumps in this case look like they arise from under the skin of the pumpkin while genetically engineered warty pumpkins look like each protuberance sits atop the skin. Mosaic infection is spread by aphids, which results in smaller leaves and vines as well as leaves with dark and light blotching.

Are the bumpy pumpkins edible? While unsightly, mosaic afflicted pumpkins can still be eaten, although they may be of lesser quality than unaffected fruit.

Insects munching on tender young pumpkin shells can also scar the surface resulting in bumps. Cucumber beetles are usually the culprits here and can afflict all the cucurbits in your garden. They are also vectors for Mosaic virus.

To combat both the virus and the beetles, apply pyrethrin spray to the plant. First, dilute the pyrethrin to 3-5 tablespoons per gallon of water (44.5-74 mL. per 4 L.). Be sure to cover all of the foliage. That should take care of the beetles and by virtue of that, Mosaic virus. You can also mulch with aluminum foil to prevent Mosaic virus infection, and discard any pumpkin plants that show signs of infection. Control weeds and aphids via insecticidal soap as well. Repeat applications each week until there are no signs of aphid infestation.

To get the best coverage on the first and repeat applications, a spray bottle from Amazon will do the job nicely.

Lastly, bumpy pumpkin fruit may be caused by edema. Edema is most often seen in cool, wet growing years. Unlike Mosaic virus, edema isn't a disease; it is caused by the absorption of too much water. The plant needs to rid itself of the excess but the cool weather conditions don’t allow it to transpire through its leaves or turn it into more fruit or plant. As the plant cells swell with water, they enlarge and burst. The resulting area heals, forming a scar that is dry, corky, and raised. Edema is usually pretty minor on pumpkins, but when it afflicts greens or kale, it can be serious. It will not affect the outcome or flavor of the fruit; it is just some harmless scarring.

If, however, you see signs of edema on your pumpkins and the weather hasn't been overly cool and wet, you need to either examine your irrigation practices and/or the area of the pumpkin patch. The pumpkin patch may be at a low point in the yard and susceptible to collecting water.

Looking to do something a little different with your pumpkins next Halloween? Why not try a different, very un-pumpkin-like shape? Growing shaped pumpkins will give you jack-o’-lanterns that are the talk of the town, and it’s basically as easy as letting your pumpkins grow. Keep reading to learn about growing shaped pumpkins in pumpkin molds.

How to Grow a Pumpkin Inside a Mold

Growing shaped pumpkins requires two things: a mold in the shape you want your pumpkin to be and time. You should pick a mold that’s a little bigger than the estimated mature size of your pumpkin so it doesn’t burst through and you can still slip it out without breaking your mold. Start the process when your pumpkin still has a decent amount of growth ahead of it and it can fit easily into its mold. Growing pumpkins in molds allows for virtually any shape you dream up, but a good starter shape is a simple cube. Good materials to use are wood, tempered glass, or sturdy plastic. You can make your own mold, buy a commercial one, or repurpose any hollow, sturdy containers you might have. A thick bucket or flower pot could make for an interesting cone or cylinder shape.

Growing Pumpkins in Molds

When your pumpkin is still immature, slip it gently inside your mold, being careful not to break it from the vine. As it grows, it won’t necessarily stay in the mold, so stretch a strip or two of duct tape across the open side to keep it from escaping. Water your pumpkin regularly and feed it with a water-soluble fertilizer once per week. Your pumpkin should grow to fill out the shape of the mold. Once it’s tight against the sides of the mold but can still be budged, lift it out -- you don’t want it to get stuck! Allow it to turn orange if it hasn’t already, then cut the pumpkin from the vine and display it!

If you have ever grown pumpkins, or for that matter been to a pumpkin patch, you are well aware that pumpkins are gluttons for space. For this very reason, I have never tried to grow my own pumpkins since our vegetable garden space is limited. A possible solution to this dilemma might be to try growing pumpkins vertically. Is it possible? Can pumpkins grow on trellises? Let's learn more.

Can Pumpkins Grow on Trellises?

Oh yes, my fellow gardener, planting a pumpkin on a trellis is not an inane proposal. In fact, vertical gardening is a burgeoning gardening technique. With urban sprawl comes less space in general with more and more compact housing, meaning tiny gardening spaces. For less than ample garden plots, vertical gardening is the answer. Growing pumpkins vertically (as well as other crops) also improves air circulation which impedes disease and allows for easy access to fruit. Vertical gardening works well on a number of other crops including watermelon! Okay, picnic varieties, but watermelon nonetheless. Pumpkins need 10 foot (3 m.) or even longer runners to supply ample nutrition for developing fruit. As with watermelon, the best choices for planting a pumpkin on a trellis are the smaller varieties such as:

• ‘Jack Be Little'
• ‘Small Sugar'
• ‘Frosty'

The 10p ound (4.5 kg.) ‘Autumn Gold' works on trellises supported with slings and is perfect for a Halloween jack-o'-lantern. Even up to 25 pound (11 kg.) fruit can be pumpkin vine trellised if properly supported. If you are as intrigued as I am, it's time to learn how to make a pumpkin trellis.

How to Make a Pumpkin Trellis

As with most things in life, creating a pumpkin trellis may be simple or as complex as you wish to make it. The simplest support is an existing fence. If you don't have this option, you can make a simple fence using twine or wire strung between two wood or metal posts in the ground. Make sure the posts are fairly deep so they will support the plant and fruit. Frame trellises allow the plant to climb up two sides. Use 1 by 2 or 2 by 4 lumber for a pumpkin vine frame trellis. You can also opt for a tepee trellis made of sturdy poles, 2 inches (5 cm.) thick or more, lashed tightly together with rope at the top, and sunk deep into the ground to support the vine's weight. Beautiful metal work trellises can be purchased as well or use your imagination to create an arched trellis. Whatever your choice, build and install the trellis prior to planting the seeds so it is securely in place when the plant begins to vine. Tie the vines to the trellis with strips of cloth, or even plastic grocery bags, as the plant grows. If you are growing pumpkins that will only attain 5 pounds (2.5 kg.), you probably won't need slings, but for anything over that weight, slings are a must. Slings can be created from old t-shirts or pantyhose-- something slightly stretchy. Tie them to the trellis securely with the growing fruit inside to cradle the pumpkins as they grow. I am definitely going to try using a pumpkin trellis this year; in fact, I think I might plant my “must have” spaghetti squash in this manner as well. With this technique, I should have room for both!

Happily, heirloom madness has hit the mainstream produce aisles and you are now more likely to encounter unique veggies previously unattainable unless found at a farmer's market or your own veggie patch. The finding and purchasing of heirloom varieties has become easier, but there is still nothing like growing your own. One such example is growing peanut pumpkins -- truly a unique and delicious pumpkin specimen.

What is a Peanut Pumpkin and is Peanut Pumpkin Edible?

So, what is a peanut pumpkin? Peanut pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima 'Galeux d'Eysine') is an heirloom pumpkin varietal notable for its distinctive peanut-like growths peppering the exterior of its pink hued rind. Certainly unique looking, some might say unattractive, the “peanuts” are actually a buildup of excess sugar in the flesh of the pumpkin. Excess sugar, you ask? Yep, peanut pumpkin is more than edible; the flesh is sweet and delicious. These warty protuberances add up to an extremely sweet flesh, suitable for use in desserts such as pies, breads and cheesecakes. Also known as “Galeux d'Eysine,” additional peanut pumpkin info tells us that it is a 220-year-old heirloom varietal and possibly a cross between a Hubbard squash and an unknown pumpkin variety. Because it is an heirloom and not a hybrid, it is possible to save seeds from peanut pumpkin for planting the following year.

How to Grow Peanut Pumpkin Plants

Growing peanut pumpkin plants, like all pumpkins, will need a good bit of space. The squash itself weighs in at between 10-12 pounds (4.5-5.4 kg.). As with other winter squash, the plants are grown as annuals. These pumpkins are not frost tolerant and need soil temps between 60-70 F. (15-21 degrees C.) for germination. Peanut pumpkins should be grown in full sunlight in well-draining, moisture retentive soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Prep a 6 x 6 foot (1.8 x 1.8 m.) garden plot, amending as needed depending upon pH. Place four or five peanut pumpkin seeds at a depth of ¾ inches (2 cm) into the soil; be sure the soil temps have reached at least 65 F. (18 C.) in late spring. When planting multiple peanut pumpkin plants, be sure to space the seeds at least 3 feet (90 cm.) apart in rows 5 feet (1.5 cm.) apart. Lightly cover the seeds with soil and water in well. Cover with about 2 inches (5 cm.) of bark mulch to provide the growing pumpkins an area to rest above moist ground. which can lead to rot. Water the peanut pumpkins once a week with 2 inches (5 cm.) of water for clay or loamy soils, or twice a week with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water in sandy soil. Keep the area around the squash weed free to minimize pest hiding places and disease spread. Maturation is between 100-105 days. Harvest the peanut pumpkins prior to the first hard frost. Cut them from the vine, leaving 2 inches (5 cm.) of stem attached to the squash. Allow them to cure for two weeks in a well-ventilated area with temps about 80 F. (26 C.). Now they are ready to be turned into any culinary delicacy you can come up with and can be stored for an extended period of time ( up to three months) as well.

(Author of The Garden Crypt: Exploring the Other Side of Gardening) Pumpkins are the icons of Halloween decorating. However, choosing pumpkins isn't always that easy unless you know what you're looking for. This article can help with that so you can pick the best pumpkin for your situation.

Halloween Pumpkin Selection

Pumpkins are one of the most popular symbols of Halloween, representing not only the autumn harvest but also Halloween décor. The old Irish tradition of carving pumpkins into jack-o'-lanterns, which was once done using large turnips, still goes on today. Look nearly anywhere during the Halloween season and you're certain to see them; pumpkins lazing about one's landscape with smiling or scowling faces, some with no face at all. Pumpkins come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They also range in color from the classic orange to yellow, green, and even white. Choosing pumpkins for Halloween is no easy task, especially if you're looking for pumpkins to carve. While most people want nothing more than an ordinary pumpkin for a simple carved-out design, others want their pumpkins to make a statement. These are the ones who look for the perfect pumpkin, if there is such a thing. These are the people who take Halloween decorating to the extremes, but all in good fun and with extraordinary results.

How to Pick a Pumpkin for Halloween

To make choosing Halloween pumpkins easier, it always helps to have a general idea about their purpose. Will you be carving them? If so, the type of design should accommodate the pumpkin's size and shape. For instance, your design may require a tall and narrow pumpkin as opposed to a smaller round one. Small and medium-sized pumpkins work well for the more traditional jack-o'-lantern faces. However, designs that are more complex may require a larger sized pumpkin, so picking the perfect pumpkin for this is important. Carved pumpkins can add drama to your Halloween décor. Create a variety of jack-o'-lanterns and scatter them throughout the yard. Set them in trees. Tuck them between plants in the garden. Don't forget to light them up after dark to create that ominous effect. Perhaps you're not into carving. That's okay. Pumpkins can be used simply for aesthetic purposes. These, too, look great scattered around or placed along walkways and porches. Whatever the purpose, here are some pumpkin picking tips to help you with making that Halloween pumpkin selection less stressful:

• Pumpkins should not have any visible bruising or other irregular spots. Bruised pumpkins can shorten the amount of time you'll have to show it off, so keep this in mind when choosing.
• Try to choosing Halloween pumpkins that are smooth and uniform. These usually sit up better. Of course, if you're merely choosing pumpkins for Halloween décor other than carving, this probably won't be much of an issue.
• Once you've picked the perfect pumpkins for all of your decorating needs, you'll want to take care not to damage them before getting home. Picking up pumpkins by the stems is not really a good idea and increases the chances of having the stems break off.

Pumpkins and Halloween go hand in hand. However, choosing pumpkins for Halloween doesn't have to be stressful. Planning your design and becoming familiar with various pumpkin varieties ahead of time can often make the process both fun and easy.

Growing pumpkins is fun for the entire family. When it's time to harvest the fruit, pay special attention to the condition of the pumpkins to make sure the time is right. Harvesting pumpkins at the right time increases the storage time. Let's learn more about storing pumpkins once harvested.

Pumpkin Harvest Information

Pumpkins last longer if you harvest them when they reach their mature color, and the rind is hard. Use the seed packet to get an idea of the mature color of the variety. Wait until the pumpkin rind loses its shine and it's hard enough that you can't scratch it with your fingernail. The curly tendrils on the part of the vine near the pumpkin turn brown and die back when it is completely ripe, though in some cases they can continue to ripen off the vine. Cut the stem with a sharp knife, leaving 3 or 4 inches (8-10 cm.) of stem attached to the pumpkin. Harvest all of the pumpkins before the first frost. You can also harvest the fruit and cure it indoors if bad weather makes it likely that the crop will rot on the vine. Early frost and cold rainy weather call for early harvest. If you have to harvest them sooner than you'd like, cure them for ten days in an area with temperatures between 80 and 85 degrees F. (27-29 C.). If you have too many pumpkins to cure indoors, try placing straw under them so they don't come in contact with wet soil. Do a scratch test with your fingernail to decide when they are ready for storage. The piece of stem left on the pumpkin looks like a great handle, but the weight of the pumpkin might cause the stem to break off and damage the pumpkin. Instead, transport pumpkins in a wheelbarrow or cart. Line the cart with straw or other soft material to prevent damage if they bounce around.

How to Store Pumpkins

Wash and thoroughly dry the pumpkins, and then wipe them down with a weak bleach solution to discourage rot. Make the bleach solution by adding 2 tablespoons (20 ml.) of bleach to 1 gallon (4 L.) of water. Now the pumpkins are ready for storage. Dry, dark locations with temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees F. (10-16 C.) make ideal pumpkin storage areas. Pumpkins kept at higher temperatures become tough and stringy and may sustain chill damage at cooler temperatures. Set the pumpkins in a single layer on bales of hay, cardboard, or wooden shelves. If you'd like, you can hang them in mesh produce sacks. Storing pumpkins on concrete leads to rot. Properly stored pumpkins keep for at least three months and may last as long as seven months. Check the pumpkins for soft spots or other signs of rot from time to time. Throw away rotting pumpkins or cut them up and add them to the compost pile. Wipe down any pumpkins that were touching them with a weak bleach solution.

When do you start growing a pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima) is a question that many gardeners have. These spectacular squash are not only a fun fall decoration, but they can make several tasty treats as well. Pumpkin growing isn't hard and is even a popular garden activity for a child in the garden. Let's take a few minutes to learn a few pumpkin growing tips for starting pumpkins from seed.

When to Plant Pumpkin Seeds

Before you can grow pumpkin seeds, you need to know when to plant pumpkin seeds. When you plant your pumpkins depends on what you plan on using them for. If you plan on making jack-o-lanterns with your pumpkins, plant your pumpkins outside after all chance of frost has passed and the soil temperature has reached 65 F. (18 C.). Take into account that pumpkin plants grow faster in hot climates than cold climates. This means that what month to plant pumpkin seeds changes depending on where you live. So, in cooler parts of the country, the best time when to plant pumpkin seeds is in late May and in warmer parts of the country, you can wait until mid July to plant pumpkins for Halloween. If you plan on growing pumpkins as a food crop (or for a giant pumpkin contest), you can start your pumpkins indoors about two to three weeks before the last frost date for your area.

How to Plant Pumpkin Seeds

Starting Pumpkin Seeds Outside

When you plant pumpkin seeds outside, remember that pumpkins need an incredible amount of space to grow. It's recommended that you plan on a minimum of 20 square feet (2 sq. m.) being needed for each plant. When the soil temperature is at least 65 F. (18 C.), you can plant your pumpkin seeds. Pumpkin seeds won't germinate in cold soil. Mound the soil up a bit in the center of the chosen location to help the sun heat the pumpkin seeds. The warmer the soil, the faster the pumpkin seeds will germinate. In the mound, plant three to five pumpkin seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep. Once the pumpkin seeds germinate, select two of the healthiest and thin out the rest.

Starting Pumpkin Seeds Indoors

Loosely pack some potting soil in a cup or a container with holes for drainage. Plant two to four pumpkin seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep in the soil. Water the pumpkin seeds just enough so that the soil is moist but not swamped. Place the cup on a heating pad. Once seeds have germinated, thin out all but the strongest seedling, then place the seeding and cup under a light source (bright window or fluorescent light bulb). Keeping the seedling on the heating pad will cause it to grow faster. Once all danger of frost has passed in your area, move the pumpkin seedling to the garden. Carefully remove the pumpkin seedling from the cup, but don't disturb the roots of the plant. Place in a hole 1-2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm.) deeper and wider than the rootball of the pumpkin plant and backfill the hole. Tap down around the pumpkin seedling and water thoroughly. Pumpkin growing can be rewarding and fun. Take some time this year to plant pumpkin seeds in your garden.

As you scoop the goop out of your soon-to-be jack-o’-lantern, you may wonder how to save pumpkin seeds for planting next year. Or if you’re like me, you wonder how to save pumpkin seeds to eat!

But whether you want to grow pumpkins from seed or harvest the seeds to eat, you need to know how to gather, clean, and dry them first. Below is everything you need to know about how to save pumpkin seeds for planting or to turn them into a tasty snack.

Benefits of Saving Pumpkin Seeds

There are so many creative uses for pumpkins besides carving them for Halloween. Two of the most common are saving pumpkin seeds for planting and eating.

If you want to know how to save pumpkin seeds to plant in the garden, be aware that some pumpkins do not come true to seed. Instead they cross pollinate, which can be a problem.

Pumpkins cross pollinate with other members of the Cucurbit family like squash, cucumber, or melon. This means if you plant these crops close together, the seeds you harvest may grow into an amalgamation of a pumpkin and another Cucurbit crop.

If, however, you separate your Cucurbit crops you can harvest true seed. Commercial growers stop cross pollination by separating crops by at least half a mile to get true seed. The best bet is to use a pumpkin that is an heirloom or open pollinated plant, not a hybrid.

When eaten in moderation, pumpkin seeds are quite healthy. They are high in fiber, contain antioxidants and are a good source of heart healthy unsaturated fats, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and omega-3 fatty acids. There are also many uses for pumpkin seeds in the kitchen other than roasting.

How to Harvest Pumpkin Seeds

Whether you want to learn how to save pumpkin seeds for planting or eating, the harvesting process is the same and easy to do with a few simple seed harvesting tips.

1. To harvest pumpkin seeds, start with a large, healthy pumpkin. Wash the pumpkin and dry it to remove any dirt or debris and then cut it in half with a handsaw (like this Stanley 6in Handsaw on Amazon).
2. Scoop the seeds out with a spoon. Wash and rinse the seeds with clean water until the pulp separates from the seeds, then drain the seeds in a strainer.
3. Remove the pulp and seeds from inside the pumpkin. Place this in a colander. These are available from as little as $5 on Amazon, if you need.
4. Place the colander under running water. As the water runs over the pumpkin innards, separate the pumpkin seeds from the pulp by picking out seeds and letting pulp run out of the colander. Rinse in the running water as you complete this step.
5. There will be more seeds inside the pumpkin than you will likely need to plant, so once you have rinsed a good amount of seeds, look over them and choose the biggest ones. Plan on saving three times more pumpkin seeds than the number of plants you'll be growing next year. Larger seeds have a better chance of germinating.
6. Place the rinsed seeds on a dry paper towel. Make sure they are spaced out; otherwise, the seeds will stick to one another.

How to Save Pumpkin Seeds

Once you’ve separated and cleaned the seeds, the process for saving them varies a bit depending on whether you’re saving them for planting or eating.

For Planting

Lay out seeds in a single layer; on an old window screen or the like is perfect. Allow them to dry for a few weeks, turning them over for the first few days.

Once they are dry, package the seeds in paper envelopes then date and label them. Store seeds in a cool dry area for up to a year. Or you can store pumpkin seeds in a sealed plastic bag and store them in the refrigerator. Properly stored pumpkin seeds may remain viable for up to four years.

For Eating

Harvest pumpkin seeds for eating the same way you would for planting, then dry in the same manner or use a dehydrator. Set your dehydrator to 115-120 F (46-49 C) for 1-2 hours or in the oven on warm for 3-4 hours. Stir the seeds frequently to ensure even drying.

Once the seeds are dry, you can roast them. At this time you can add additional seasonings, if you like, or toss them with a little oil and salt before roasting.

If you want to de-hull your seeds to make them a bit easier to eat, you must boil and dry them first before roasting. Hulls slide off seeds after boiling or you can crack and remove them manually before eating. Usually the hull isn’t too thick and there isn’t really a need to remove it.

There are also pumpkin varieties that have hull-less seeds, often called pepitas, though there are a few differences in pepitas vs. pumpkin seeds. If you are using a hull-less variety, skip the hulling step above.

How to Store Pumpkin Seeds for Planting

When saving pumpkin seeds for planting next year, store them where they will remain viable for many months. All seeds, pumpkin or otherwise, store best when kept somewhere cool and dry.

One of the best ways to store seeds, including pumpkin seeds, is putting them in your refrigerator. Place your pumpkin seed envelope in a plastic container, then make several holes in the lid to ensure condensation doesn't build up on the inside.

Place the container with the seeds at the back of the fridge. Then next year, when it comes time for planting pumpkin seeds, yours will be ready to grow.

How to Roast Pumpkin Seeds

You can opt to roast pumpkin seeds in the oven or microwave, or boil and then roast them in the oven.

To roast in the oven, toss seeds with a little oil and salt as well as your favorite seasonings. Roast at 250 degrees F (121 C) for 10-15 minutes, keeping a careful eye on them so they don’t get too brown.

If you would rather roast the seeds in the microwave, pat them dry first. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a microwave-safe dish then spread a single layer of the seeds atop the melted butter. Microwave on high for 7-8 minutes, stirring every two minutes. Remove from the microwave and season with salt and any other seasonings you’d like.

You may also boil the seeds in salted water for half an hour, drain and dry, then roast in a shallow pan or cookie sheet for 30-40 minutes at 300 F (149 C). Stir the seeds every 10 minutes to ensure even roasting.

If your hulls were thick and you opted for removal, you can toast the hull-less seeds instead of roasting them. This is a different, though equally tasty, take on the classic fall favorite. Cook seeds in a skillet over medium-low heat until they begin to pop and smell nutty.

Once your roasted or toasted seeds are cool, store them in an airtight container at room temperature or in the refrigerator to extend their shelf life.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Whether you are growing pumpkins for a Halloween Jack-o-lantern or for a tasty pie, nothing can be more disappointing than a frost that kills your pumpkin plant with green pumpkins still on it. Never fear, there are things you can try to get your green pumpkin to turn orange.

1. Harvest the green pumpkin - Cut your pumpkin off the vine, making sure to leave at least 4 inches (10 cm.) of the vine on the top. The "handle" will help prevent the pumpkin from rotting at the top.
2. Clean your green pumpkin - The biggest threat to a green pumpkin is rot and mold. Gently wash the mud and dirt from the pumpkin. After the pumpkin is clean, dry it and then wipe it down with a diluted bleach solution.
3. Find a warm, dry, sunny spot - Pumpkins need sunlight and warmth to ripen and a dry place so they don't rot or mold. Enclosed porches generally make a good place, but any warm, dry, sunny spot you have in your yard or house will work.
4. Place the green side to the sun - The sun will help the green part of the pumpkin turn orange. If you have a pumpkin that is only partially green, face the green side towards the sun. If the whole pumpkin is green, rotate the pumpkin evenly for an even change to orange.

When summer is nearly over, the pumpkin vines in the garden can be filled with pumpkins, orange and round. But is a pumpkin ripe when it turns orange? Does a pumpkin have to be orange to be ripe? The big question is how to tell when pumpkins are ripe.

How to Tell When a Pumpkin is Ripe

Color is a Good Indicator

Chances are that if your pumpkin is orange all the way around, your pumpkin is ripe. But on the other hand, a pumpkin doesn't need to be all the way orange to be ripe and some pumpkins are ripe when they are still completely green. When you are ready to harvest a pumpkin, use other ways to double-check whether it is ripe or not.

Give Them a Thump

Another way how to tell when pumpkins are ripe is to give the pumpkin a good thump or a slap. If the pumpkin sounds hollow, that the pumpkin is ripe and ready to be picked.

The Skin is Hard

The skin of a pumpkin will be hard when the pumpkin is ripe. Use a fingernail and gently try to puncture the pumpkin's skin. If the skin dents but doesn't puncture, the pumpkin is ready to pick.

The Stem is Hard

When the stem above the pumpkin in question starts to turn hard, the pumpkin is ready for picking.

Harvest the Pumpkin

Now that you know how to tell when pumpkins are ripe, you should know how best to harvest a pumpkin. Use a Sharp Knife When you harvest a pumpkin, make sure that the knife or shears you use are sharp and will not leave a jagged cut on the stem. This will help prevent diseases from getting into your pumpkin and rotting it from the inside out. Leave a Long Stem Be sure to leave at least several inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm.) of stem attached to the pumpkin, even if you don't intend to use them for Halloween pumpkins. This will slow down the rotting of the pumpkin. Disinfect the Pumpkin After you harvest the pumpkin, wipe it down with a 10 percent bleach solution. This will kill any organisms on the skin of the pumpkin that may cause it to rot prematurely. If you plan on eating the pumpkin, the bleach solution will evaporate in a few hours and so will not be harmful when the pumpkin is eaten. Store Out of the Sun Keep harvested pumpkins out of direct sunlight. Learning how to tell when pumpkins are ripe will ensure that your pumpkin is ready to display or eat. Learning how to properly harvest a pumpkin will ensure that the pumpkin will store well for many months until you are ready to use it.

Growing pumpkins in the garden can be a lot of fun, especially for children who may use them for carving their jack-o-lanterns at Halloween. As many gardeners know though, successfully growing pumpkins in the garden for Halloween pumpkins can be difficult to do. With a few pumpkin growing tips, you can grow perfect Halloween pumpkins in your garden.

Halloween Pumpkin Growing Tip #1 - Plant at the right time

Many gardeners will tell you that growing pumpkins is easy, it's keeping the pumpkins from rotting before Halloween that is hard. Mature pumpkins will rot quickly, so it's important that your pumpkin is ripe right at Halloween. The best time for planting pumpkins depends on the variety and your climate. Normally, in the north, you should be planting pumpkins in mid to late May. In warmer, southern climates (where pumpkins grow rapidly) you should probably be planting pumpkins in June.

Halloween Pumpkin Growing Tip #2 - Give your pumpkin lots of room

Growing pumpkins requires a lot of room. Many pumpkin plants can grow to be 30 to 40 feet (9-12 m.) long. If you don't provide enough room for your pumpkin plant you may cause it to shade and weaken itself, which makes the plant more susceptible to disease and pests.

Halloween Pumpkin Growing Tip #3 - Pumpkins love sunshine

Plant your pumpkins where they will get lots of sun. The more the better.

Halloween Pumpkin Growing Tip #4 - Pumpkins love water

While growing pumpkins will tolerate some drought, it is best to make sure that they get regular watering. Make sure your pumpkin plants get 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) of water a week. Supplement with the hose if you are not getting this much rainfall.

Halloween Pumpkin Growing Tip #5 - Plant your Pumpkins with Companions

Squash bugs are the number one killers of pumpkin vines. To repel them from your pumpkin plant, plant some companion plants near your pumpkin plant. Plants that squash bugs don't like and will keep squash bugs from the growing pumpkins include:

• Catnip
• Radishes
• Nasturtiums
• Marigolds
• Petunias
• Mint

Halloween Pumpkin Growing Tip #6 - Keep the Stem

When you harvest your pumpkin plant, make sure you leave a good, long piece of the stem on the pumpkin. Once you cut potential Halloween pumpkins from the vine, a "handle" or stem will help slow the rotting process. Conclusion: With these pumpkin growing tips, you should have a much better chance of growing all the Halloween pumpkins you could want. Remember also, not only is growing pumpkins fun, but after Halloween, they make a great addition for your compost pile.