Radishes are one of those easy to grow, first on the table, early spring veggies. They impart a great peppery crunch to salads or just as a snack. Because they are an easy to grow vegetable, you may end up with more than can be used fresh at one time. This is when radish pickling recipes should make an entrance. What are preserved pickled radishes? Radish pickles are a simple method of preparing the root that will extend its shelf life for months.

About Radishes

Radishes can be sown directly from seed in the early spring, and are one of the first crops ready for harvest.

Radishes are known for their peppery crunch but they are also rich in calcium, potassium, sodium and vitamins A, B, C and K, not to mention they are low in calories. These cruciferous veggies also aid in lowering blood pressure and have been purported to lower the risk of heart disease.

Most people are familiar with the small, round hot pink to ruby red radishes with pristine white interiors but radishes also may be black, purple, white or yellow and may grow long and narrow much like a parsnip.

What are Quick Pickle Radishes?

Quick pickles are vegetables, in this case radishes, that that are preserved in a brine and then refrigerated, hence they are also referred to as refrigerator pickles.

Quick pickles are made with any or a combination of crisp vegetables such as radish, cucumber, carrot and onion. The vegetable is sliced and then preserved in a brine of vinegar, water or fruit juice, salt and often sugar along with any other flavors such as garlic or fish sauce. The fermenting concoction is then packed into a sealed container to ferment.

How to Preserve Radishes

Before preserving radishes you need to pick your radish. As mentioned, radishes come in various hues and shapes. Daikon radish is a popular radish used in many Asian cuisines that looks like a long, thick, white carrot. It makes a terrific pickled radish but regular round, red radishes can be used as well. Daikon is just easier to handle as it is a large root.

A simple preserved radish recipe is as follows.

• Prepare the brine by combining ½ cup each of vinegar and water, ¼ cup white sugar and a large pinch of kosher salt in a pan and bring to a boil. Pull from stove and allow to cool.
• Prepare one daikon radish and one carrot, washed, peeled and julienned (match stick) either with a mandolin or carefully with a sharp knife
• Fill a clean mason jar with the cut carrots and daikon and then pour the cooled brine over the vegetables until just covered. Cover with a lid.
• Refrigerate for at least four hours prior to serving to allow the flavors to marry.

As to what type of vinegar to use: Rice vinegar imparts an excellent clean, crisp flavor but other vinegars such as distilled, malt, white, red wine, or apple cider work well. The darker vinegars like balsamic or Chinese black vinegar not only result in an unpleasant look to the pickled radishes but are a bit strong and tannic for quick pickles.

To the above basic recipe you can add all sorts of other flavors. You may wish to add citrus juice in lieu of water, garlic, onion, other veggies like red cabbage, fish sauce, crushed red pepper, bay leaf, mustard seed, pickling spice, or fresh herbs.

Pickled radishes are best after 24 to 48 hours of fermenting and can be kept for 2-4 weeks, sealed and refrigerated.

Radishes are one of the easiest garden vegetables to grow, yet all too often gardeners discover their radishes are too hot to eat. Improper growing conditions and delayed harvests are what make radishes hot. So, if you're finding your radishes too hot to eat, let's look at some solutions to alter the growing conditions and a method to fix hot radishes you already harvested.

What Makes Radishes Hot

If you discover your garden grown radishes getting hot, the first step is to review growing conditions. Radishes are a quick crop with most varieties maturing in 25 to 35 days. They prefer cool weather and can be sown in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. (Hot weather can make radishes too hot to eat.)

When planting radish seeds, it's best to use a seeder to achieve adequate spacing. Ideally, radish seed should be sown one inch (2.5 cm.) apart. When the seedlings have true leaves, thin to give 2 inches (5 cm.) spacing between plants. Overcrowding results in slower root formation and is another reason for radishes becoming too hot. 

Inadequate ground moisture can also slow down the growth process. Radishes require one inch (2.5 cm.) of rain per week or supplemental water. Keeping the ground evenly moist allows radishes to grow quickly and have a mild flavor. Likewise, heavy rain or hard watering can cause the soil to crust and pack on the surface, which will also delay root maturity. Sprinkle water lightly and gently agitate the surface to break the crust.

To encourage faster growth, plant radishes in fertile soil or supplement with a balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer. Too much nitrogen results in excess foliage, which can also delay root development and result in radishes getting hot.

For the best flavor, harvest radishes as soon as they reach maturity. The longer radishes stay in the ground, the hotter they become. Successive planting is one way to have a steady crop of radishes and lengthen the harvest season. Rather than one big planting, sow smaller amounts of radish seed on a weekly basis during the spring and fall when temperatures are cool.

How to Fix Hot Radishes

Now that you know what makes radishes hot you can prevent this problem in the future. Just what does a gardener do with a whole crop of hot radishes? Luckily, there's a trick to fix hot radishes:

• Remove any garden soil by gently washing the radishes.
• Cut off the root and stem end of each radish.
• In the top of the radish, cut two evenly spaced slits about ¾ of the way through the root.
• Turn the radish 90 degrees and cut two more slits so you have a checkerboard pattern.
• Soak the radishes in ice water for approximately 45 minutes or until they become mild enough to eat.

Radishes are a great addition to salads. They make a quick, nutritious snack or can be prepared as a delicious, roasted-vegetable side dish. However you plan on using your homegrown radishes, be sure to grow them quickly and harvest them upon maturity for the sweetest, mildest flavor.

Radishes are one of the fastest-growing vegetable options for the garden. Many varieties have ready-to-eat swollen roots within four weeks. That is a mighty quick turnaround from seed to table. If you have ever left your radishes past their pull date and watched them flower though, you might be one of few to know they will form edible seed pods.

Can You Eat Radish Seed Pods?

Many gardeners didn't leave their radishes unharvested on purpose but by happy accident. Imagine their surprise when snappy, green pods formed. Are radish seed pods edible? Not only are they edible, but you might also be surprised at how delicious they are.

Eating radish seed pods is an uncommon veggie option but it has signs of becoming a farmer's market staple. There are actually some varieties of edible radish seeds that are grown specifically for their pods. They are called "rat-tailed" radishes due to the shape of the pods. These do not form edible roots, just tasty pods.

Any radish will form a pod though. They are slightly spicy but milder than the root. In India, the pods are called mogri or moongra and are featured in many Asian and European cuisines. Technically, the pods are siliques, a common feature among plants in the mustard family.

Ways of Eating Radish Seed Pods

Really, the sky's the limit and seed pods can be eaten raw in salads or quickly sautéed for a stir fry. They are also delicious as part of a crudité’s platter with your favorite dip. Another way of preparing the pods is pickled. For deep fry enthusiasts, they can be battered in Tempura and quickly fried as a crunchy snack.

The first known recipe featuring the pods appeared in a 1789 cookbook by John Farley called The London Art of Cookery. The pods were introduced widely at the 1866 International Horticultural Exhibit.

Just a few plants will produce prolifically so you don't have to give up the spicy roots on all your crop. Edible radish seeds left too long become amazingly delicious pods. The pods get no longer than a pinkie finger.

Harvesting radish seed pods must be done when they are young and bright green, or they will be bitter and woody. Each is a crunchy, juicy, green delight. If the pod becomes lumpy, it will become pithy and the flavor is not as good.

Once washed and dried, the pods will last in the crisper for a week. If you want successive pods all the way into fall, sow seeds every few weeks.

The Chinese Green Luobo radish, also known as the Qingluobo radish, is an exciting and unique heirloom vegetable that is known both for its delicious taste and its striking color. If you like radishes, but you're tired of the plain old red and white varieties, then this radish is for you!

What is a Qingluobo Radish?

Chinese green radishes are best known for their color, which is bright green both inside and out. The skin is deep bright green toward the stalk, often fading to white near the roots. (Just like lots of traditional European radishes that fade from red to white). Inside, the flesh is also bright green, though it's a lighter, fresher shade. The combined shades of green make for a really attractive cross section when sliced for salads or pickles. The individual radishes grow to a decent size, reaching 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm.) in length, and are the same shape as a daikon radish. Their flavor is strong and spicy, similar to that of horseradish. There is, however, a very pleasant sweetness beneath the heat. They can be eaten raw, pickled, or cooked. The leaves are also edible and very pleasantly spicy.

Growing Chinese Green Radish

Qingluobo radishes are native to northern China, where temperatures get low. This means the plants are very well adapted to the cold and will grow well even in below freezing temperatures. Unfortunately, this also means they're mal-adapted to heat and likely won't perform well if you try to grow them in the hot summer. They are best planted as a fall crop. Gardeners report that, unlike other radishes, they retain their peppery flavor even in cold weather. Seeds are about 60 days to maturity. If allowed to bolt (which may very well happen if you plant them in the summer), the plants produce lots of delicate purple flowers.

Radishes are quick to produce from seed to harvest. If your roots have dark cracks and lesions, they may have black root disease. Radish black root disease is very contagious and causes severe economic losses in crop situations. Unfortunately, once the crop is infected, it is considered a total loss. Good cultural practices can help minimize the occurrence of the disease.

Symptoms of Black Root of Radish

Black root in radish is a fairly common disease in cool, wet soils. It can occur at any point in plant development, resulting in seedling death or rotten roots. Black root of radish has no cure, but there are several cultural methods that can help protect your crop from this fungal disease. The signs of radish black root disease are unmistakable once the roots are harvested, but initial symptoms can be a little trickier to recognize. In the earliest infections, seedlings will die quickly. More established plants will develop yellowing at leaf margins in a wedge shape. The veins will begin to turn black. A radish with black root that exhibits leaf signs is already developing dark patches on the root. These spread and become cracks and fissures that turn necrotic. The entire root soon becomes black, hence the name of the disease. All plants with signs of the disease should be destroyed, as it is very contagious.

What Causes a Radish with Black Root?

The culprit is a fungus-like organism named Aphanomyces raphani. The organism attacks not only radish but other crucifer vegetables. Cool, wet soil encourages the growth of the disease. Rounded root types seem to be less susceptible to black root than the elongated root forms. Some, such as French Breakfast, can even be planted in areas where previously contaminated crucifers were housed and will remain relatively blemish free. The disease spreads by wind, water splash, insects and animals. It can also be harbored on host plants in the crucifer family or in plant waste. The organism can survive in soil for 40 to 60 days, giving it the potential to re-infect a new crop.

Preventing Black Root in Radish

Crop rotation every 3 years seems to be the most effective way of preventing disease. Clean up old plant debris and remove crucifer type plants in a 5-foot (1.5 m.) radius. Sow seeds in raised beds with excellent drainage. Keep air circulation free around the plants. Practice good cultivation methods and sanitize tools. Solarization of soil may be beneficial. There are currently no registered fungicides for treatment of the disease. Use plant varieties that are resistant such as:

• French Breakfast
• White Spike
• Red Prince
• Belle Glade
• Fuego

Radishes are one of the easiest, rapidly maturing, and hardy crops to grow. Even so, they do have their share of problems. One of these is radish white rust disease. What causes white rust of radishes? Read on to find out how to identify radishes with white rust and how to manage white rust on radishes.

What is Radish White Rust Disease?

White rust of radishes is caused by the fungus Albugo candida. The disease usually afflicts the leaves, although it may affect other parts of the plant as well. The fungus appears as white, raised spore masses on the underside of the leaves. The area affected may be barely visible to a ½ inch (1 cm.) across or larger.

How is White Rust on Radish Spread?

When mature, the epidermis of the blister-like pustule ruptures, releasing the powdery white spores that are carried on the wind or by splashing water to neighboring plants. The pustules sometimes result in deformed stems, leaves, or flowers. White rust of crucifers infects only plants in its host group. These include:

• Arugula
• Bok choy
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Chinese cabbage
• Collards
• Mustard
• Radish
• Tatsoi
• Turnips

The disease is promoted by mild temperatures and high humidity. Dry weather or extreme heat or cold will slow the progression of the disease. The pathogen survives from year to year in the soil, on plant debris, or on overwintering infected crops and weed hosts.

Managing Radishes with White Rust

Practice crop rotation to help reduce the risk of the disease by reducing the number of spores in the area. Plowing may also help reduce the risk although it also may increase soil loss via erosion. Since Albugo candida is crop specific, rotate among some of the above listed hosts to control the disease. Remove weeds and volunteer plants. When conditions favor the disease, apply fungicides. The same fungicides that control downy mildew are effective against white rust as well.

Throwing a Halloween party and want to spice up the usual ho-hum crudités platter? Go with the traditional orange and black colors of the holiday. There are plenty of orange veggies but what about black ones? Heirloom black round Spanish radishes are an option.

About Black Radish Plants

While you can't exactly find black round Spanish radishes (Raphanus sativus) in the produce department, with a little planning you can grow your own black radish plants. Typically, red radishes found at the supermarket are rather mild and slightly sweet. That is not the case with black round Spanish radishes. These black beauties are not only shocking in appearance but have an intense peppery flavor that will clear out those nasal passages. Although the skin looks tough, it is actually quite tender and does not need to be peeled. These heirlooms probably date to the 16th century or before. They have nearly black skins with a snow white interior. There are actually two types of black Spanish radish. The black round mentioned here and a longer, cylindrical type that grows to about 8 inches in length. Both have a fiery flavor and, when kept under the right conditions, will keep for long periods of time. Black radish plants are slow growers, 60 days to maturation, and are typically planted in late summer or early fall for a late fall to early winter harvest. When growing these heirloom radishes, direct sow into the garden. Keep them moist and mulch around the plants to keep the roots cool. Back in the day, black Spanish radishes were stored in a box of moist sand placed in a cool area, probably a root cellar. Today, store the heirlooms in a perforated bag in the refrigerator. Use them fresh or cooked. Remember, they pack a punch. If you find their pungency too much for your palate, slice or grate them and then salt them. Salting causes the radishes to weep, leaching out some of the heat. Rinse them well before using them.

Radishes are vegetables grown for their edible underground root. The portion of the plant above ground is not to be forgotten, however. This part of the radish produces food for its growth and also stores additional nutrients needed down the growth phase. So, it comes as no surprise that yellow radish leaves are a sign that there is a radish growing problem. Why do radish leaves turn yellow and how can you treat a radish plant that has yellow leaves? Read on.

Why Do Radish Leaves Turn Yellow?

Radish growing problems may stem from anything from overcrowding, lack of adequate sun, competing weeds, insufficient water, nutrient deficiency, pests and/or disease. Radish leaves that are turning yellow may be the result of any number of the above as well. There are a number of diseases that result in yellowing leaves as at least one sign of infection. This may include septoria leaf spot, which is a fungal disease. Diseased foliage appears as yellow spots on radish leaves that look almost like water blotches with gray centers. Avoid Septoria leaf spot by amending with organic matter and planting in a well-draining area of the garden. Also, practice crop rotation. To curb the disease when plants are already afflicted, remove and destroy infected leaves and plants and keep the garden free of debris. Another fungal disease is blackleg. This infection presents as radish leaves turning yellow between the veins. The leaf margins brown and curl up while the stem becomes a dark brown to black and slimy. The roots also become slimy and brownish black towards the stem end. Again, prior to planting, amend the soil with plenty of organic matter and ensure that the site is well-draining, and practice crop rotation. If your radish plants become wilted and appear weak with yellow leaves combined with oval, red blotches at the stem base and roots with red streaks, you probably have a case of Rhizoctonia or Fusarium root (stem rot). This fungal disease thrives in warm soil. Rotate crops and plant disease free plants. Remove any infected plants and debris. Solarize the soil in the late spring or summer to kill off any overwintering spores. Club root is another fungal disease (Plasmodiophora brassicae) that not only cause leaves to yellow, but swells roots with tumor-like galls. This disease is common in wet soils with a low pH. The microorganism can live in the soil for 18 years or more after an infected crop! It spreads via soil, water, and wind movement. Practice long-term crop rotation and remove and destroy any crop detritus and weeds. Common in cool weather, downy mildew causes angular yellow spots on leaves that eventually become tan colored, papery textured areas surrounded by a yellow border. Fuzzy gray to white mold grows on the underside of the leaves and brown to black sunken areas appear on the root with a rough, cracked exterior. Black rot is yet another radish disease that results in yellowing leaves. In this case, the yellow areas are distinct V-shaped lesions on the margins of the leaves with the point of the “V” following a vein towards the base of the leaf. The leaves wilt, yellow, and soon brown and die as the disease progresses. The veins become black throughout the entire plant from leaves, stems, and petioles. Hot, humid conditions foster black rot, which may be confused with fusarium yellows. Unlike fusarium, ailing foliage in black rot coincides with bacterial slime.

Additional Reasons a Radish Plant Has Yellow Leaves

Yellow leaves on radish plants may also be due to insect infestation. A virus called aster yellows is a mycoplasma disease spread by leafhoppers, which act as a vector. To combat aster yellows, control the leafhopper population. Remove infected plants and keep the garden weed free since weeds harbor the disease by sheltering the leafhoppers. Brilliantly marked Harlequin bugs suck fluids from plant tissues, resulting in wilting plants with deformed leaves dotted with whitish or yellow spots. Handpick these insects and destroy their egg masses. Keep the garden free from weeds and plant detritus that will shelter the bugs and their eggs. Lastly, yellowing of radish leaves may also be the result of a nitrogen deficiency. This is fairly rare since radishes aren’t heavy feeders but, if necessary, feeding the plant with a fertilizer high in nitrogen will return the plant to its brilliant green. Start your radishes properly and you may be able to avoid many of these radish problems. Sow in a spot of at least six hours of sun per day. Prepare the area by raking free of weeds and debris. Work in ample compost or aged manure and rake the area smooth. Then sow seeds in furrows about an inch (2.5 cm.) apart and ½ inch (1 cm.) deep with seeds spaced ½ to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm.) apart. Cover lightly with soil and water in until moist. Keep the bed moist, not drenched, consistently. Thin the radishes, leaving 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) between plants. Keep the bed free of weeds. Pick an occasional radish or two as they grow to check for any insects below the surface. Discard any infected plants immediately.

Radishes are common spring vegetables. Many of us grow our own because they are easy to grow, take only about 25 days from planting until harvest, and are delicious fresh or even cooked. If you would like to expand your radish horizons, try growing black radishes. Read on to find out how to grow black radish and additional black radish info.

Black Radish Info

Black radishes (Raphanus sativus niger) are heirloom radishes that are significantly more peppery than the rosy-red radish. They also take about two to three times longer to mature than the common red radish. There are two varieties: a round one that looks much like a black turnip and a long one, which is cylindrical and can get to about 8 inches (20 cm.) long. The long variety is more pungent than the round, but both have flesh that is crisp, white, and peppery. To quell some of the spiciness, remove the black peel from the radishes. Black radishes are members of the Brassicaceae or Brassica family. These annual root vegetables may also be found under the names Spanish radish, Gros Noir d’Hiver, Noir Gros de Paris, and the Black Mooli. Unlike its common radish cousin, black radishes can be stored long after the harvest season has passed. Submerge the roots in a box or carton of moist sand and then place it in a cool place that won’t freeze or keep black radish in a perforated bag in the refrigerator. Growing black radishes has a lengthy history. Ancient Egyptian texts write of feeding radishes, along with onions and garlic, to the pyramid builders. In fact, radishes were grown prior to the building of the pyramids. Evidence has been found in excavations. Black radish was first cultivated in the eastern Mediterranean and is a relative of the wild radish. Growing black radishes became popular in England and France in the 19th century.

Black Radish Uses

Black radishes can be used fresh, sliced into salads, or cooked in a variety of ways. They can be sautéed and served as a side dish vegetable, cooked like turnips and doused in butter or cream, diced into soups, stir-fries, and stews, or sliced and served with dip for an appetizer. Traditionally, black radish uses have also been medicinal. For hundreds of years, Chinese and European people have used the root as a gall bladder tonic and remedy for bile and digestive issues. In India, where it is called Black Mooli, it’s been used to treat liver problems. Today, black radish has been shown to fight off infection and promote healthy digestion. It also contains raphanin, which can be of benefit to those suffering from either an over or under active thyroid. The leaves are also purported to have a liver detoxifying effect. The root is very high in Vitamin C and also contains potassium, iron, magnesium, and vitamins A, E, and B. You can buy it at herbal supplement stores in capsules or tincture forms.

How to Grow Black Radish

Grow black radishes much as you would the common rosy radish, although as mentioned they will take longer to mature – about 55 days. Plant black radish from mid to late summer (or in the fall in mild climates) either directly sown into the garden or started indoors to be transplanted. Space the plants 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart or even farther if you want larger radishes. Sow the seeds in well-draining, loamy soil that has been raked free of stones. Situate the radish bed in an area that gets at least six hours of sun and with a soil pH of 5.9 to 6.8.

Black Radish Care

Black radish care is minimal. These plants are unfussy as long as you keep the soil slightly moist. You can pick black radishes when they are 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) across. Healthy radishes will have an even black to dark brown skin and will be firm and smooth. Avoid radishes that give in to a light squeeze as they will be pithy. You can then eat your radishes immediately after harvest or store them in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Remove the greens and wrap the radishes in plastic first. If your radishes are a little too hot for your liking, peel them, slice and salt them, and then rinse them with water before using.

Radishes are one of those rapid growers that delight the gardener with their early appearance. The fat little bulbs are a crowd pleaser with their zesty flavor and crunch. Occasionally, radishes don’t form, which is a puzzler in such an easy to grow, quick crop. If you have a new planting bed, there are several cultural reasons for this. In established beds, weather is often the culprit when radish plants only grow tops. Follow your eyes down to explain “why do radishes not form” in different scenarios.

Reasons a Radish Does Not Form Bulbs

With their nippy flavor and chubby rounded bodies, radishes are pleasing even to children and picky vegetable eaters. Another attractive attribute is how quickly you can eat them from seed to edible root. Most varieties are ready in 3 to 4 weeks, a relatively low seed to produce time when compared to many crops. If you are wondering why do radishes not form in your seedbed, perhaps you haven’t prepared the soil correctly or you may be combating Mother Nature. Relocation, proper cultivation and thinning will often solve the problem. Radish plants produce thickly leaved tops with the bright edible fruit hidden under the soil. Once your tops are fully leaved and a month has gone by since seeding, it is natural to want to eat them. But lo and behold, once pulled the radishes don’t form. Instead, you are stuck with a handful of greens. Although the greens can be very tasty, they aren’t the prize for which you waited. Figuring out why radish plants only grow tops can be very frustrating. In new beds, it is often because you didn’t loosen soil deeply enough. As a root crop, radishes depend upon loose soil to expand and develop thick roots into bulbs. Excess nitrogen in soil and neutral acidity will also slow the forming of radishes. A common cause of radishes not growing bulbs is overcrowding. Overcrowded radishes don’t have the room they need to produce fleshy bulbs, so thinning to two inches (5 cm.) apart can help promote bulb formation. Radishes like full sun and need a minimum of 6 hours of light to produce adequate bulbs. Additionally, radishes are a cool season vegetable and will bolt in hot weather, choosing to produce seed rather than fat little bulbs. When temperatures reach 80 degrees Fahrenheit (26 C.), you can expect the plants to focus on forming flowers rather than roots. In areas with rainy springs, boggy, heavy soil will waterlog the plants and cause them to stop producing bulbs and concentrate on leafy tops. Sometimes, when radishes don’t form, changing sowing time and location are the simple steps needed to have future successful crops.

Tips for Radishes Not Growing Bulbs

If your crop of radish does not form bulbs consistently, you need to attack the problem culturally and with situational tactics. Choose a seed bed that is in sun for most of the day but is not exposed during the high heat of the day. Morning or afternoon sun for 6 hours is sufficient for bulb formation. Prepare the bed by tilling in compost or sand, if heavy, and to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm.). Avoid incorporating lots of nitrogen into the soil, which will only promote leafy tops. Sow seed on the surface of the soil with just a sprinkle of covering earth. Planting time is also a contributing factor to lack of bulb production. Sow seeds as soon as soil is workable. You can sow successive crops until late spring but avoid sowing in summer, as radishes may fail to form and those that do tend to be cracked and bitter.

Radishes might be the kings of the high reward plants. They grow outrageously fast, with some of them maturing in as little as 22 days. They grow in cool weather, germinating in soil as cold as 40 degrees F. (4 C.), making them one of the first edible things in your vegetable garden each spring. They’re also incredibly easy to grow, taking off and producing with little to no human intervention, apart from some strategic thinning. They do grow better, however, with a little help in the form of radish plant fertilizer. Keep reading to learn about radish plant food and how to fertilize radishes.

Fertilizing Radish Plants

Just before you plant your radishes, you should work some all-purpose fertilizer into the soil. Apply about one pound (0.5 kg.) of 16-20-0 or 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet (9 sq. m.) of soil. Ideally, you should be planting your seeds in 10 foot (3 m.) long rows spaced 1 foot (31 cm.) apart, but you can scale down for much smaller spaces. Mix the radish plant fertilizer into the top 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) of your soil, then plant your radish seeds ½ to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm.) deep and water them thoroughly. If you don’t want to use commercial fertilizer, the same radish plant food effect can be achieved by working 10 pounds (4.5 kg.) of compost or manure into the soil instead. So, is one time enough when fertilizing radish plants? After you’ve applied your initial all-purpose fertilizer, your radish fertilizer requirements are basically met. If you want to provide a little extra radish plant food to kick your growth into high gear, however, try adding about ¼ cup (85 g.) of nitrogen-rich fertilizer per 10 feet (3 m.) of row to promote fast foliage growth, especially if you plan on consuming the greens.

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are a cool weather crop that are rapid growers, easily sown for successive crops every ten days. Because it is easy to grow (and delicious), radish is a common choice for the home gardener. Even so, it has its share of radish growing problems and radish diseases. What types of radish disease problems are there and how can they be treated? Keep reading to learn more.

Diseases of Radishes

Radish is a member of the family Brassicaceae, and is grown for its slightly spicy, crunchy taproot. This herbaceous annual or biennial should be grown in full sun in loose, compost amended, well-draining soil. Seeds can be sown as early as 5 weeks prior to the last average frost date for your region and then for a continual supply, sown every 10 days. Quit sowing when temps reach over 80 degrees F. (26 C.). Keep the plants consistently moist. Harvest the radishes when they are under an inch (2.5 cm.) across by lifting them out gently. Seems fairly straightforward, and it usually is, but even the undemanding radish can fall victim to radish disease problems. While the majority of radish growing problems are primarily fungal, here are the most common issues you may come across.

• Damping off – Damping off (wirestem) is a common fungus found in the soil in areas of high humidity. Radishes are prone to seed rot or the collapse of seedlings when afflicted with damping off. Don’t plant seeds in cold, moist soil, and be sure the soil is well-draining.
• Septoria leaf spot – Septoria leaf spot is a fungal disease that often affects tomatoes but can afflict radishes too. This radish disease is appears as pale yellow, gray spots on foliage that look like water spots. The spots get a gray center and become more circular as the disease progresses. Again, make sure the radish area has well-draining soil. Remove and destroy and infected parts or plants, rotate crops and keep the garden free of other plant debris.
• Fusarium rot and Downy mildew – Fusarium rot and wilt is a fungal disease that thrives in warm soil. Downy mildew is also a disease of radishes caused by a fungus. Keep the garden free of detritus, destroy infected plants, avoid overhead watering and improve upon air circulation and practice crop rotation.
• Black root – Black root is another possible radish growing problem. This fungal disease causes yellowing of leaves with brown, curled leaf margins. The stem’s base darkens to a dark brown/black color and becomes slimy, along with black, slimy roots. Be sure to amend the bedding area with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage and practice crop rotation.
• Alternaria blight – Alternaria blight causes dark yellow to black spots with concentric rings on foliage. The center of the ring often dries out and drops, leaving the leaves with a shot-hole appearance. Complete leaf drop may occur. Be sure to buy plant certified, disease-free seed. Rotate crops. Irrigate in the morning to allow the foliage to dry and apply fungicide.
• White rust – White rust appears as white pustules on foliage and flowers. The leaves may curl and thicken. This particular fungal disease thrives in dry conditions and is spread by the wind. Rotate crops and plant disease free seed. Use a fungicide if the disease progresses.
• Clubroot – Clubroot is another fungal disease that mimics damage done by nematodes. It leaves stunted plants with yellow leaves that wilt during the day. Roots become distorted and swollen with galls. This pathogen can survive for many years in the soil. The addition of lime in the soil may reduce fungal spores but, in general, this disease is difficult to control.
• Scab – Scab is a disease that is also found in potatoes, turnips and rutabagas that causes brownish-yellow lesions on roots and irregular blotching on foliage. This bacterial disease is difficult to control since it remains in the soil for lengthy periods. Don’t plant the area for four years.

Some insects act as vectors to disease. Leafhoppers are one such insect. They spread Aster Yellows, a mycoplasma disease, which as its name suggests, causes leaves to yellow and curl and stunts plant growth. Destroy infected plants. Control leafhoppers and keep the garden free of weeds and plant detritus. Aphids also act as vectors spreading leafroll virus. Treat the same as for Aster Yellows. Lastly, to avoid the incidence of fungal disease, harvest the radishes before they reach maximum size. They taste better and you can avoid potential cracking, which can open a window to fungal disease.

Radishes are cool season veggies that are easy to grow. They attain maturity rapidly and plantings can be staggered to provide a wealth of radishes throughout the growing season. Even though they are simple to grow in abundance, there are a number of garden radish pests to watch out for. If you’re amongst the ranks squawking “Help, something is eating my radishes!” read on to find out how to combat radish insect pests.

Help, Something is Eating my Radishes!

No one knows exactly where radishes originate from, but they can be found growing from the Mediterranean to the Caspian Sea. They thrive in cool, moist climates with the optimal temperature between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.). They do well in almost any soil type but prefer light, sandy loam with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. They are easy to propagate from seed sown directly into a prepared bed in full sun to part shade. Sow seeds to a depth of ½ inch (1 cm.), 1 inch (2.5 cm.) apart, with 12 inches (31 cm.) between rows. Keep the seedlings moist. Radishes like a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer over the course of their growing season. Plants are mature between 30 and 50 days from sowing. That is, if all goes well and the plot isn’t infiltrated by bugs that eat radishes. So, what types of insects that attack radishes are there?

Insects that Attack Radishes

You are growing radishes because you like to eat them, so it’s no surprise that there are plenty of bugs that eat radishes too. Among the radish insect pests that primarily attack radish foliage, the following culprits are to blame:

• Cutworms
• Flea beetles
• Aphids
• Harlequin bugs
• Cabbage loopers

Cabbage maggots give radishes a double whammy. Not only do they nibble tunnels through the plant’s roots, they are transmitters of bacterial black soft spot and other pathogens. All cole crops are susceptible, especially when immature. Snails and slugs will also munch on radishes. The foliage is again the attraction here, but if you had planned on eating the radish greens, you’re out of luck.

Treating Radish Insect Pests

How can you combat these garden radish pests? Well, there are always pesticides which may or may not work. A better plan of attack is more preventative.

• Use floating fabric row covers to keep the insects off the plants.
• Be sure to give the plants enough space for good air circulation and weed around the plants to prevent those dark, moist conditions that pest’s desire.
• Water plants early in the morning.
• Rotate your radish crop; don’t plant in the same area of the garden more than once per growing season.
• Collars made of plastic cups or cardboard tissue rolls can be placed around young plants to protect them from cutworms, as can turning the soil prior to planting. This will expose cutworms so the birds can hopefully make a meal of them.
• Lastly, you can wage war against the radish pests by introducing beneficial insects.

Radishes are popular vegetables, valued for their distinctive flavor and crunchy texture. How many types of radishes are there? The number of different types of radishes is nearly endless, but radishes can be spicy or mild, round or oblong, big or small, with radish varieties available in colors ranging from reddish-purple to rosy pink, black, pure white or even green. Read on to learn about a few interesting varieties of radish.

Common Radish Types

Below are some of the most common types of radish:

• White Icicle – This pungent, white radish measures 5 to 8 inches (13-20 cm.) in length.
• Sparkler – A round, bright red radish with a distinctive white tip; all white inside.
• Cherry Belle – This round, red radish is a common variety often found in your local supermarket. It is delicious in salads.
• White Beauty – A small, round radish with a sweet, juicy flavor; white inside and out.
• French Breakfast – This mild, extra-crunchy, slightly pungent radish is good raw or cooked.
• Early Scarlet Gold – A juicy, crispy-tender heirloom variety with a round shape, red skin, and white flesh.
• Daikon Long White – Daikon are huge radishes that can reach lengths of 18 inches (46 cm.), measuring 3 inches (7.5 cm.) in diameter.
• Fire and Ice – Appropriately named oblong radish with bright red on the top half and pure white on the bottom half; sweet, mild and delicate in flavor and texture.

Unique Varieties of Radish

The following radish varieties are less common in the garden but well worth giving a try:

• Sakurajima Mammoth – Believed to be the largest radish variety in the world, this incredible radish can weigh up to 100 pounds at maturity. In spite of its size, it has a sweet, mild flavor.
• Green Meat – Also known as Misato Green, this radish variety is green inside and out. The outer skin is surprisingly spicy, but the flesh is mild.
• Easter Egg - This interesting variety can be white, pink, red or purple. Slice it thin to add flavor, texture, and color to salads.
• Watermelon – An heirloom radish with white skin and intense, reddish-purple flesh. The Watermelon radish, which reaches baseball size, looks much like a miniature watermelon. The flavor is slightly peppery.
• Black Spanish - This round radish displays coal-black skin and pure white flesh.
• White Globe Hailstone – Pure white inside and out; the flavor is mildly spicy.
• Chinese Green Luobo – Also known as Qinluobo, this heirloom radish is a unique shade of lime green inside and out.

Radishes are one of the quickest producers, often garnering a crop in three to four weeks in spring. Later strains provide roots in six to eight weeks. These plants are tolerant of interplanting provided they are not shaded out by taller species. Many crops make excellent companion plants for radishes, filling in after the roots have been harvested. Installing plants that grow well with radishes can maximize use of the garden bed while harnessing the unique repellent properties of the pungent radish.

Plants That Grow Well With Radishes

Companion planting has been practiced for centuries and was a common Native American practice illustrated perfectly in the “three sisters” method of cropping where corn, squash, and beans were planted to support each other, enhance nitrogen, utilize space, and shade weeds. Each plant has something to offer the other and radish companion plants can fulfill the same needs. Planning is a key feature in intercropping where space, size, growing conditions, and nutrient needs are all considered for a seamlessly compatible garden. Due to the radish’s quick production and ability to be serial planted, other plants that grow more slowly and need a longer season to produce can be used to complete the garden bed. As long as the radish crop isn't severely shaded, these little roots will grow at the feet of many species of plants. Peas and leaf lettuces are started in early spring as soon as the soil is workable. This is also the time to sow radish seeds. The slower growth of the peas and lettuce allows radishes to develop without serious interruption, with harvest time well before the other two vegetables. Plants which will not be ready for many months, such as tomatoes and peppers, can also be intercropped with the earlier radish harvest.

Other Radish Companion Plants

Radishes will also help repel cucumber beetles, which means cucumbers, with their long growing season requirements, are also good companion plants for radishes. Plants that help radishes might be strong smelling herbs, nasturtium, and species in the allium family (such as onions). Pole beans and sweet peas, which rise high above the garden on stakes, help fix nitrogen in soil and enhance production while juicing up the soil for other high nitrogen feeders like lettuces. Be cautious when planting near brassicas (like broccoli), however, as radishes can attract flea beetles, which will damage this plant’s leaves. Hyssop is also not compatible with radishes.

Considerations for Radish Companion Planting

As you plan your garden and want to incorporate radishes, consider some issues. First, are the seeds spring, summer, or winter forms?

• Early season radishes will be best combined with early season vegetables or those that will not get too large in a few weeks to compete with the low growing roots.
• Summer varieties take longer to mature and should be installed where sunlight will reach them for up to eight weeks. This negates certain plants of the larger, long season crops as radish companions.
• Winter cultivars need a longer period as well but can be installed with late season plantings of spinach, kale, and other leaf crops.

Depending upon your season, you may also get another crop of the cool weather darlings such as snow and snap peas. Radishes also have attractive foliage in many cases and are useful in annual beds and borders as visual companions to flowers and herbs.

An easy, rapid-growing crop, radishes are usually grown for their delicious, peppery root. Radishes mature anywhere from 21 to 30 days from seeding whereupon the root is ready for harvest, but have you ever wondered if you can eat the radish greens? If so, what can you do with radish leaves and how to harvest radish greens?

Can You Eat Radish Greens?

Yes indeed, you can eat radish greens. In fact, they are super nutritious and delicious, tasting much like their relatives, the turnip greens or mustard. So how come many of us have never tasted this culinary delight? Many varieties of radish have foliage peppered with slight hairs. When eaten, these hairs assault the tongue with an unpleasant prickly sensation. This is no doubt a defense of the plant which, after all, does not want to be eaten; it wants to continue to mature into seed pods. Seed pods that, by the way, are also edible! There are, however, a number of radish varieties that claim to be “hairless,” apparently making them excellent choices for salad greens. I love the idea of using the entire plant and White Icicle, Shunkyo Semi-Long, Perfecto, and Red Head are all radish types that can be grown not only for the root, but also the delicious greens. Some seed catalogues that specialize in Asian veggies even have a category called leaf radish. These radishes, such as Four Season and Hybrid Pearl Leaf, are grown primarily for the foliage which is used in Korea for making kimchi. It seems evident that there are plenty of options for the harvesting of radish leaves. The question is: "When to harvest radish leaves?"

When to Harvest Radish Leaves

Begin harvesting radish leaves when they are young and tender, and the roots are just forming. If you leave harvesting too late, the stems get tall, the roots pithy, and seed pods form while the leaves become bitter and yellow. Since they grow so quickly if you want to have a continuous supply of greens, re-seed about halfway through the maturation of the first sowing. That way you will have another harvest ready to reap soon after the first, and so on.

How to Harvest Radish Leaves

There is no secret to harvesting radish leaves. You can snip them off at ground level or pull the entire plant. Separate the root from the greens by cutting it. Wash the greens free of dirt and you are ready to use them. They can be tossed into salads, tucked into wraps, or sautéed; only your imagination limits their use.

Looking for an old but new again, unique heirloom that is not only decorative, but absolutely delicious? Look no farther than the Rat-Tail radish plant. What's that, you say? It is a radish, as the name implies, but a variety that is cultivated for use of its edible seed pods rather than the usual roots. Interested in growing Rat-Tail radishes? Read on.

History of Rat-Tail Radishes

Its unpleasant sounding name not-withstanding, Rat-Tails have a bit of a royal reputation, but I'm getting ahead of myself. Rat-Tails were introduced to English gardens in 1815 via Java.

They were exhibited by Mr. Bull at the International Horticultural Exhibition and touted as a revolutionary new vegetable whose pods would grow 3 inches overnight and mature at 3-4 feet long! As you may imagine, this created quite a sensation and they became popular throughout Europe and North America, and even in Australia.

The claims were for the most part, untrue, so by the turn of the century, Rat-Tail's popularity waned and they were rarely grown except as oddities. During its past hay day though, the Rat-Tail is said to have been found growing in Sandringham, the seat of the Prince of Wales and, supposedly, enjoyed by him at his dining table.

Radishes can be found in the family Brassicaceae, amongst which are cabbages, turnips, watercress, rocket and garden cress. All of these plants have similar seed pods, making the grouping quite logical, especially to a gardener. While radishes are generally grown for their root, growing Rat-Tail radishes (Caudatus group) are cultivated for the pods, which vary in size but are generally as long as 6 inches, that do indeed resemble rat tails. Long popular in Indian and other Asian cuisine, these pods are once again becoming trendy.

They are easy to grow, tolerate heat better than root radishes, and continue to produce pods long after root radishes are finished. Rat-Tail plants grow 3-4 feet tall and will continue to produce pods through the growing season, especially if the pods are picked and branches pruned. You may need to stake the branches since their prolific flowering may cause them to droop. Rat-Tails have quite a few other names too, including serpentine bean and monkey-tailed, and are referred to as "aerial" radishes.

Varieties of Rat-Tailed radishes may have white flowers with 3- to 5-inch green or purple pods, or green pods tinged with purple. Long purple podded aerial radishes are 8-12 inches long with pink blooms and reddish-violet stems. You can't go wrong, as all of them have stunning displays of color and texture.

Growing Rat-Tail Radish

Sow seeds for this hardy annual at a depth of ¼ to ½ inch deep 2 weeks after the last frost. Thin them to a foot apart and eat the thinnings! Toss them in a salad - they are delish. Pods will appear between 40-50 days, with the lowest ones ripening first. Pick them when small, about pencil thick, when they are at their most pungent and crisp.

Reminiscent of a radish, Rat-Tails have a milder radish flavor with a texture akin to a juicy chili pepper. You can eat them raw as a snack, or with a beer as the Germans do, or cook them. They are often found pickled in vinegar with peppercorns, allspice and mace, which, again, would be good with a beer. With their subtle spice, they make a great addition to stir-fries and curries and a curiosity on the crudités platter - all the way around a fun, unique and flavorful veggie.

As if this isn't enough, the sweet scented blossoms are addictive to butterflies and other pollinators, making it a useful addition to the garden, especially at the peak of summer when many flowers are dormant.

But there's more! The interesting pods, when dried, retain their purple color and sinuous shape, perfect for the inclusion in dried flower arrangements. Really, I can't think of any reason you shouldn't plan to include Rat-Tails in your own home garden.

Depending upon who you ask, wild radish plants are either weeds to be destroyed or crops to be enjoyed. Your own opinion will probably vary greatly depending on how they’ve come into your life. If you’ve discovered a field of them and want to try your hand at cooking something new, your feelings are probably a lot warmer than if you keep finding your garden plants muscled out by them. Keep reading for information of uses for wild radish, as well as methods for controlling wild radish.

Uses for Wild Radish

What is wild radish? It’s similar to cultivated radish, and the two can cross pollinate when growing near each other. In appearance it looks very similar to wild mustard, a close relative. All parts of it are edible if you’re feeling brave. Boil the greens and eat the flowers and pods raw. The tough outer skin of the roots can be peeled away easily with your hands, revealing an inner core that is quite good and tender when boiled for 45 minutes.

How to Manage Wild Radish Plants

If you’re more interested in wild radish control rather than eating the plant, then you need to know more about its growth habit. Wild radish (Raphanus raphanistrum) appears in the winter in the southern U.S. and the spring in the northern United States. It establishes a base of bristled, jagged leaves resulting in a spread of 10 to 14 inches (25-35 cm.) across. When the weather warms it bolts, sending up a tall, branching stalk of flowers resulting, if left to nature, in a seeding for next year and even more weeds in your garden or pasture. The best way to combat wild radish weeds is to prevent this from happening. Identify and destroy the plants before they flower, and your infestation next year should be severely reduced. The most effective way to eliminate wild radish is with herbicide. Try to keep your garden or pasture densely planted --wild radish loves open spaces and can be crowded out when it sprouts.

Radishes are cool weather veggies available in a variety of sizes and colors that vary in flavor as well. One such varietal, the watermelon radish, is a creamy white specimen and green underneath with a striated pink interior looking much akin to a watermelon. So, what is a watermelon radish? What do watermelon radishes taste like and what other watermelon radish facts might entice us into growing them? Let’s find out.

What is a Watermelon Radish?

Watermelon radishes are an heirloom variety of Daikon radish, one of my favorites. They are a member of the mustard family, which includes arugula and turnip. An interesting watermelon radish fact tells us that the Chinese word for these radishes is ShinRi-Mei, meaning “beauty in the heart.” One only needs to slice into one of these beauties to understand the meaning behind the name. Their Latin name is Raphanus sativus acanthiformis. As to what watermelon radishes taste like, they have a milder, understated taste compared to their brethren and are a bit less peppery in flavor. Unlike other varieties, the flavor actually mellows even further the more mature the radishes become.

Growing Watermelon Radishes

Since these are an heirloom variety, finding watermelon radish seeds might require a bit more of a search than going to the local five and dime but are well worth the effort. Watermelon radish seeds are easy to order through online seed catalogs. Growing watermelon radishes is as easy as growing other radish types. They do take longer to mature than other varieties, however – about 65 days. Plant them from early to late spring. They can be planted anew every two weeks for a continuous harvest. Radishes thrive in well-drained, fertile, deep, sandy soil rich in organic matter. Prior to sowing watermelon radish seeds, you may want to amend the soil with 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) of well composted organic matter and 2 to 4 cups (0.5-1 L.) of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8 or 10-10-10-) per 100 square feet (9.29 sq. m.), especially if your soil tends to be heavy. Work these into the top 6 inches (15 cm.) of soil. Radish seeds can be sown directly into the garden when soil temps are 40 degrees F. (4 C.) but germinate best at 55 to 75 degrees F. (12-23 C.). Sow seeds in rich soil, evenly spaced in rows 6 inches (15 cm.) apart at a depth of ½ inch (1 cm.). Tamp the soil down lightly and water the seeds in. Maintain consistent irrigation as the radishes grow. When the seedlings are an inch (2.5 cm.) tall, thin them to 2 inches (5 cm.) apart.

Have you ever forgotten a couple of radishes in the garden, only to discover them some weeks later with flourishing tops adorned with pods? Did you ever wonder if you could harvest radish seed pods?

Radish Seed Pod Info

Radishes are most commonly grown for their tasty roots, but did you know that radish seed pods are edible as well? They are not only edible, but truly delicious with a milder flavor than the root and an interesting crunch. Radish pods are simply the seed pods of a radish plant that has been allowed to flower and then go to seed. There are actually some varieties of radish, such as ‘Rattail,' that are specifically planted for cultivation of the seed pods, although all radish varieties form edible seed pods. The pods look remarkably similar to short pea pods or green beans. A newcomer on the North American food scene, radish seed pod info informs us that this delicacy is a commonplace snack in Germany where they are eaten raw with beer. They are called ‘moongre' in India and added to stir fries with potatoes and spices. Besides munching on these pungent pods, can you save seeds from radish seed pods? Yes, you can save seed from radishes. So, not only can you toss the radish root into a salad, snack on the delicious pods, but you can harvest radish seed pods as well. Oh yes, you can then compost the rest of the plant so not a stitch of it is wasted.

Collecting Radish Seeds

Radish seed saving requires nothing more than leaving the pods on the plants until they are brown and mostly dried. Keep an eye on them if the weather is turning wet so they don't mildew. If this is looking imminent, I suggest abandoning the radish seed saving in lieu of harvesting the pods and eating them before they go bad. Once the pods are browning, you can pull the entire plant up and upend it in a brown bag. Hang the bag with the plant seed dangling down into it and allow the seeds to mature naturally. Once they are completely mature, the pods pop open and the seeds drop into the bag. You can also allow seed pods to mature in a cool, dry area and then winnow or sift them to separate the seeds from the chaff. Seeds will store for up to five years in a cool, dry area. Keep in mind that if you are collecting radish seeds from hybrid varieties, the chances of obtaining exact replicas of the parent plant in the successive planting season is nil as radishes cross pollinate readily. Regardless, the resulting radish will still be a radish. If you want to be a purest, select only those seeds from dedicated heirloom plantings.

Cultivating daikon in the garden is a great way to enjoy something a little different. Planting daikon radishes isn't difficult and once you learn how to grow daikon radish plants, you'll be able to enjoy them year-round in warm climates or replant them each year in cooler regions.

What is Daikon?

A daikon is a Chinese radish (Raphanus sativus longipinnatus), also known as lobok and oriental radish. Daikon has large roots, and some of the biggest varieties can weigh up to 50 pounds (23 kg.). The most common types weigh from 1 to 2 pounds (0.5-1 kg.) at maturity and can have up to a 2 foot (61 cm.) leaf spread. Most people cook daikon radishes, but they can also be used in salads. Growing daikon radishes is a nutritious and enjoyable pursuit. These tasty radishes are low in calories and full of essential vitamins and nutrients. Daikon radishes are even grown year-round in most parts of California and similar regions.

How to Grow Daikon Radish Crops

Cultivating daikon radishes is similar to growing traditional radish varieties only they generally need more space and more time to mature. Radishes require full sun to part shade and regular water in order to thrive. Install drip irrigation for best results and put a 1 inch (2.5 cm.) layer of mulch around plants to conserve moisture. Radishes also grow best in temperatures below 80 degrees F. (27 C.)

Planting Daikon Radishes

In spring, you can plant these radishes as soon as you can work the soil. Continual planting every 10 to 14 days will ensure successive crops. As with other radishes, growing daikon radishes are good to plant in places where you will put warm season crops such as peppers, tomatoes, or squash. If you want mature radishes in the spring, you can also plant them in the winter with the use of a cold frame or some other means of protection, unless you live in a temperate climate. Place the seeds ¾ inch (2 cm.) deep and 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. Leave 3 feet (91 cm.) between rows to allow for mature spread. The plants will mature within 60 to 70 days. Now that you know more about how to grow daikon radish plants in the garden, why not give them a try and enjoy these tasty crops.

Radishes are one of the fastest-growing vegetables. Patio and small space gardeners may wonder, “Can radishes grow in containers?” The answer is yes. Planting radish seeds in pots produces the food quickly and with minimum effort. Start your garden early when you learn how to grow radishes in containers. You and your family will soon be snacking on the zesty globes in just about a month.

Can Radishes Grow in Containers?

It is possible to grow many vegetables in pots and containers. Container gardening radishes allows you to control disease, pests, moisture, and other conditions more easily than planting in the ground. Planting radish seeds is also a fun project for kids and helps them learn about how plants grow.

Radish Seed Germination

Radishes are cool-season vegetables that produce the smaller, sweeter vegetables in spring. There are early season and late season varieties of radish. Start the late-season radishes in late summer to early fall for a crop of larger, more pungent globes. Radish seed germination does not require any special pre-treatment and will occur when the seeds are sown on top of the soil or with just a dusting of cover.

How to Grow Radishes in Containers

Container gardening radishes require a wide gallon (4 L.) pot and well-drained soil with rich organic amendments. Use a vegetable starter mix, or make your own with a combination of compost and peat mixed with a small amount of sand or other grit. Mix in a vegetable fertilizer before planting to jump start root growth after radish seed germination. Ensure that the pot you choose has a good drainage hole and use unglazed pots that encourage evaporation of excess moisture. If you use a saucer, make sure it is not filled with water constantly.

Planting Radish Seeds

Radish seeds are tiny, so you may scatter the seeds over the prepared soil or use a special seeding tool to individually place the seeds. After germination, you can thin seedlings to ½ to 2 inches (1-5 cm.) apart, depending on the variety. For best results, brush a ¼ inch (6 mm.) of soil over the surface of the seeds. Keep the pot evenly moist and place it where it is sheltered from high wind and gets at least six hours of sunlight.

Harvesting Radishes

The roots are the edible part of the radish plant. They begin to swell and form the vegetable soon after radish seed germination. Watch the plants carefully and ensure that the tops of the roots are covered with soil to prevent splitting and drying. Harvest radishes as soon as they are an edible size. The smaller globes have the most spice and the larger vegetables more mellow. Radishes form quickly and should be pulled as soon as they are ready to prevent the roots from getting pithy and damaged.

Has your radish gone to bloom? If you have a flowering radish plant, then it has bolted or gone to seed. So why does this happen and what can you do to prevent it? Read on to learn more.

Why Do Radishes Bolt?

Radishes bolt for the same reason anything else does-- as a result of high temperatures and long days. Radishes are considered cool-season crops and are best grown in early spring or fall when temperatures range between a comfortable 50 to 65 degrees F. (10-16 C.) and day length is short to moderate. They also like plenty of moisture while growing. If radishes are planted too late in spring or too early for fall, the warmer temps and longer days of summer will inevitably lead to bolting. While you can cut a radish flower, radishes that have bolted will have a more bitter, undesirable flavor and tend to be woodier in nature.

Preventing Radish Blooms, or Bolting

There are ways you can minimize bolting in radish plants. Since they prefer cool, moist growing conditions, be sure to plant them when temperatures are around 50 to 65 degrees F. (10-16 C.). Anything warmer will cause them to mature faster and bolt. Those grown in cooler temps will also have a milder flavor. Spring-planted radishes should also be harvested early—before the heat and long days of summer begin to set in. Radishes usually mature in 21 to 30 days or three to four weeks after planting. Checking on them frequently is a good idea since they tend to grow rather quickly. Generally, red radishes are ready for harvesting just prior to reaching about an inch (2.5 cm.) in diameter. White varieties are best harvested at less than ¾ inches (2 cm.) in diameter. Some of the oriental types are naturally prone to bolting and this may occur regardless of your efforts. If your radishes are already planted later than they should be, you can minimize the effects of bolting by keeping the radish plants irrigated and adding mulch to help retain this moisture and keep the plants cooler.

Radishes are small orbs of impactful flavor that are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. Native to parts of Asia and Europe, radishes have been cultivated for centuries for their crisp texture and peppery flavor. These cool-season root crops thrive in loose, well-drained soil, preferring full sun and consistently moist conditions. Because many varieties mature in as little as three to five weeks, radishes are a go-to crop for succession planting in spring and fall gardens.

Growing radishes is simple and can be grown in the smallest of gardens, even in containers. They perform best in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 10, although when they can be planted depends on your climate. You could consider radishes to have two purposes in your garden: First, radishes help loosen soil and second, planting a few seeds here and there can help fill gaps between slower-growing crops.

Radishes are commonly eaten fresh in salads, sliced onto sandwiches, roasted with other root vegetables, or pickled for added flavor and crunch. Some varieties are mild and sweet, while others offer a sharper bite that adds zest to many dishes. There’s a radish of any style and preference for anyone starting a vegetable garden.

Quick Radish Facts

What is a Radish?

Belonging to the mustard family (Brasicaceae), radishes are a root vegetable most recognized by their small, round red roots with white flesh. Other types of radishes are available through produce white, pink, purple or black skin, and also come in elongated forms.

What’s not commonly known is that both the roots and leafy green tops are edible. The roots are usually eaten fresh in salads, sandwiches, and as crudité. Some varieties can be roasted or sautéed, and pickling them is also a delicious option.

Types of Radishes

There are many different Types of radishes, and they generally fall into two categories: Spring/summer and winter.

Spring/summer radishes are what we most commonly think of when we picture radishes. These have a quick growing cycle, prefer cool weather, are moderately spicy and are best eaten fresh. Some examples include:

Cherry Belle: The round, red radish most commonly found in supermarkets.

White Icicle: A pungent, slightly larger white radish.

French Breakfast: A mild to peppery radish with an oblong or cylindrical shape with a scarlet top fading to a white tip.

Winter radishes are larger, slower growing, and generally have a stronger flavor. Some recognizable varieties include:

Daikon: Large, white, and often over 2 feet long, these sweet and crunch radish appear often in Asian dishes and are excellent in stir fries, soups, or pickled.

Watermelon Radish: A mild-flavored radish with creamy-white skin with a striated pink interior.

Black Radish: These have dark skin and a more peppery sharp, earthy flavor and are often used in cooking or storage.

There are also specialty radishes grown for edible seed pods rather than roots, such as rat-tail radishes. And wild radishes can either be a foraged crop that you’re excited to find growing in the wild, or a bane to your garden, crowding out your intentionally planted crops—all depending on how it you experience it!

If you’re not relying on wild radishes, Burpee Seeds has nearly two dozen different radishes to choose from, including the adorably small red round Cherry Belle, the elongated and hombre-hued French Breakfast and the colorful Watermelon.

Planting Radishes

If you're looking for something extremely easy to grow in the garden, then growing radishes is for you. As soon as you can work the soil in your garden in the spring, you can start growing radishes.

When to Plant Radishes

The time to plant radishes depends on the season and the type of radish you plan to grow. Most radishes are cool-season crops that grow best in the mild temperatures of spring and fall in USDA zones 2-10. Unlike warm-season vegetables, radishes are usually direct sown into the garden because they germinate quickly and do not transplant well. Spring radishes can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked in late winter or early spring, often about 4–6 weeks before the last expected frost date. Seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 50-70F (10-21C), and many varieties are ready to harvest in just three to five weeks.

For a continuous harvest, sow small batches of seeds every 7–10 days throughout the cool growing season. During the summer you can also poke radish seeds into any spot in the garden that may be shaded by taller-growing crops such as tomatoes. In warmer climates, radishes can also be planted in fall once temperatures begin to cool.

Winter radishes, such as daikon types, are typically planted in late summer for a fall harvest, allowing roots to mature in cooler autumn weather.

Best Soil for Radishes

Radishes prefer loose, well-drained soil that allows their roots—the most vital part of this crop—to develop quickly and evenly. Compacted or rocky soil can cause roots to become misshapen, stunted, or split. Prepare the growing area by digging compost or organic matter into the soil to improve its texture and drainage.

Radishes like a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Consistent soil moisture is also important, as dry conditions can lead to woody, overly spicy roots. Avoid overfertilizing with high-nitrogen products, which encourage leafy growth at the expense of root development.

Light Requirements

Radishes grow best in full sun, meaning they need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for strong, even root development. Full sun helps them mature quickly and develop their crisp texture and characteristic flavor. If full sun isn’t possible in your garden, don’t worry—radishes are fairly adaptable and can tolerate partial shade. In warmer climates some afternoon shade can help prevent them from becoming too spicy or bolting too quickly.

In lower light conditions, radishes may grow more slowly and produce smaller roots, but they will still be edible.

How to Plant Radishes Step by Step

Radishes are so simple, it would be a crime to deny yourself this quick-turn crop!

• Choose a planting site. Find a spot with full sun to partial shade and loose, well-drained soil that has been amended with compost.
• Prepare the soil. Dig some compost into the first 6-8 in. (15-20 cm) of the garden soil, removing rocks and debris so roots can grow straight.
• Sow seeds directly outdoors. Dig a shallow trench and sow seeds about ½ inch (1.25 cm) deep and 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in rows spaced 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) apart.
• Cover lightly with soil. Gently firm the surface to ensure seeds are in good contact with the soil.
• Water consistently. Keep the soil evenly moist to support fast germination and steady growth. Some find that not keeping the soil evenly moist leads to more pungent-tasting radishes.
• Thin seedlings. Once seeds sprout, remove extraneous seedlings, keeping the spacing between seedlings a about 2 inches (5 cm) apart to allow proper root development.
• Harvest promptly. When roots reach mature size, usually within 3–6 weeks from sowing, harvest your radish crop.

Radish Care

This crop comes together quickly. Ensure it grows its best by following these guidelines:

Watering

As mentioned above, radishes need consistent moisture to grow quickly and develop crisp, tender roots. Water the plant deeply, giving the soil a slow, thorough soaking so moisture reaches down to the roots instead of just wetting the surface. This ensures the soil stays evenly moist but never waterlogged. Irregular watering can cause roots to crack or become woody and overly spicy. Aim for about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week, adjusting for rainfall. Measuring the amount of both rainfall and irrigation water is easy with an AcuRite Rain Gauge that inserts into the ground, available from Lowe’s.

Fertilizing

Because it’s a quick-growing crop, does fertilizing radishes make sense? Truth is, radishes generally only need that initial dose of compost or a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer provided when preparing the soil prior to sowing seeds. In fact, radishes actually produce better roots in moderately fertile soil. And unless you are just as eager to harvest radish tops as you are about the radish roots, avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which encourage excessive leafy growth at the expense of root development.

In poorer soils, a gentle side dressing of compost mid-season can help support growth.

Mulching

Radishes don’t need to be mulched, but a light mulch would be beneficial in certain conditions. Because radishes grow quickly and prefer consistently moist soil, a thin layer of mulch such as straw or shredded leaves can help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce weeds. This is especially useful in warmer weather or in raised beds and containers that dry out more quickly than in-ground gardens.

However, kept the mulch layer on the light side. Make sure it doesn’t block emerging seedlings or keep the soil too cool in early spring, which can slow germination. In very cool or wet conditions, skip mulch entirely to avoid excess moisture retention around young plants.

Pruning

Radishes do not need to be pruned. The spring/summer radishes are generally compact, and any leaves that lean over don’t inhibit its neighbor from producing its own root. The only regular maintenance radishes may need is thinning young seedlings so each plant has enough space to develop properly. Radishes are a gardener’s ultimate “sow-it-and-forget-it” crop (except remember to water!).

Supporting Radishes

Again, most radishes are fairly low maintenance and their above-ground growth does not need to be supported. Even daikon radishes, which can grow to more than a foot long, do not need supports because most of its length is held securely by the surrounding soil.

Harvesting

Gardeners often have two questions on the topic of harvesting radishes: when and how. When it comes to harvest timing, knowing what type of radish you are growing will tell you when to harvest radishes. If your seed packet says they grow to 4 in. (10 cm) diameter, harvest the radishes when they grow to that size. If you leave them in the ground too long, they will become woody and will eventually bolt (send up a flower stalk) with the onset of warm weather.

As for how to harvest, it depends on the condition of your soil. The moister the soil, the easier it will be to simply pull the radishes out of the ground. If the radish doesn’t come out easily, insert a garden fork alongside your radish row and gently lift the crop out of the ground.

Don’t forget that radishes also give you a bonus crop—their green leaves! Yes, some radish greens have little hairs that can be unpleasant on your tongue. But many radish varieties claim to be hairless and are often labeled as “leaf radish.” When harvesting, gather a few leaves from your plants when they are still young. For the leaf radish types, you can harvest them all from a single plant. Be sure to sow seeds every few weeks so you’ll have a continuous harvest of radish leaves.

Storing and Pickling

After harvesting, store your radishes quickly to preserve their crisp texture and peppery flavor. Be sure to remove the leafy tops, as they continue to draw moisture out from the roots, causing them to soften more quickly. Once the tops are removed, gently clean and dry the roots, and place in a perforated plastic bag or wrap in a damp towel. Stored in the refrigerator, they should last 1–3 weeks.

If using the leafy radish tops, store them as you would lettuce or other greens by rinsing and drying, wrapping in a damp towel and placing in the refrigerator.

For longer storage, you can pickle radishes, which preserves their crunch and adds flavor. A simple pickling method uses vinegar, water, salt, and optional seasonings, and the radishes are kept in jars in the refrigerator for future use on tacos, salads and burgers! Walmart has just what you need for all your pickling needs, include a full range of Ball jars and lids.

Propagating Radishes

Radishes are propagated almost exclusively by seed, since they grow quickly and do not transplant well. Their general preference is to be sown directly into the garden, where they germinate within a few days under cool, moist conditions.

If you found a variety that you love and want to keep growing it season after season, you can also save radish seeds for future planting. Just allow a few healthy plants to flower and develop seed pods. Once the pods dry on the plant, the seeds can be collected and stored in a cool, dry place for future planting. This works best with seeds from open-pollinated varieties rather than hybrids, which may not grow true to type.

Radish Problems

Even though this crop is not around for an extended period, it is still open to problems from pests and diseases.

Common Pests

There are a number of bugs that eat radish plants during the short time they are in your garden. Let’s go over a few.

• Cutworms: Soil-dwelling caterpillars that chew through the base of young seedlings.
• Flea beetles: These tiny jumping beetles create what looks like “buckshot” damage in leaves.
• Aphids: These soft-bodies insects suck sap from leaves in clusters, weakening the plant.
• Harlequin bugs: Related to stink bugs, these brightly colored bugs feed on plant juices and can cause wilting or spotting.
• Cabbage loopers: These “inch worm”-looking green caterpillars chew holes in leaves of radishes and other brassica plants.
• Snails and slugs will also munch on radish leaves. Your edible roots will be fine just as long as they don’t eat all of the tops, but if you had planned on eating the radish greens, you’re out of luck.

Common Diseases

Diseases can be an issue for radishes, too. Many radish diseases are fungal in nature. Here are a few examples, and a bacterial disease thrown in for good measure.

• White rust: White rust, which thrives in dry conditions, appears as white pustules on foliage and flowers. The leaves may curl and thicken.
• Black root: This fungal disease appears as leaves with brown, curled leaf margins, with the stem’s base becoming slimy as it darkens to a dark brown/black color and becomes slimy.
• Bacterial leaf spot: Bacterial leaf spot is a disease caused by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris that affects radish foliage, causing small water-soaked spots that eventually turn tan, white, or brown. The disease spreads through infected seed, crop debris, splashing water, insects, and humid conditions.
• Cercospora leaf spot: Leaves develop large round lesions of gray or brown with dark margins. As the infection progresses, the entire leaf will become yellow and will eventually die and fall off. This is a very contagious fungal.

Growing Radishes in Containers

No in-ground garden? No problem. You’ll still be able to grow radishes in containers because they grow quickly, take up little space, and adapt easily to pots and planters. Small spring/summer types can be grown in containers about 6 inches (15 cm) deep, while longer types such as daikon require much deeper pots.

Use a loose, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter, and make sure your containers have drainage holes to prevent soggy soil. Remember that radishes grow best when provided with consistent moisture, and because containers dry out more quickly than garden beds, you’ll need to keep an eye on your container-grown radish crop. A moisture meter such as the Luster Leaf Moisture Meter available at Ace Hardware is a handy tool to keep by your container garden.

Growing Radishes Indoors

Growing radishes indoors is similar to the basics of growing them in containers outdoors. The main difference is you will need to ensure the seedlings receive enough light and consistent moisture. Again, you’ll need a deep container—at least 6 inches (15 cm)—filled with loose, well-draining mix such as the Back to the Roots Organic All-Purpose Potting Mix available at Home Depot. Sow seeds into this soil about ½ inch (1.25 cm) deep. Water lightly so as not to disturb the seeds too much. Keeping the soil evenly moist will enhance germination.

Back to the issue of light: place the container in a bright south-facing window or under grow lights for at least 6 hours of light per day, more if possible. It’s critical to thin the seedlings to prevent overcrowding, otherwise your crop will be under par. Harvest when roots reach a mature size, usually within 3–5 weeks.

Companion Planting

As we’ve mentioned above, companion planting with radishes can help maximize garden space, improve soil conditions, and reduce pest problems. Because radishes grow quickly, they are often planted alongside slower-growing vegetables such as carrots, lettuce, spinach, and cucumbers. They are also commonly used as trap crops, attracting pests like flea beetles and cucumber beetles away from more vulnerable plants.

Good companion plants for radishes include:

• Peas
• Onions
• Tomatoes
• Squash
• Leafy greens

On the flipside, radishes are generally not recommended near:

• Hyssop
• Other brassicas

Companion planting can create a healthier, more productive vegetable garden while making efficient use of limited growing space.

Radish Growing Essentials

• Burpee Seeds has nearly two dozen different radishes to choose from, including the adorably small red round Cherry Belle, the elongated and hombre-hued French Breakfast and the colorful Watermelon.
• Measuring the amount of both rainfall and irrigation water is easy with an AcuRite Rain Gauge that inserts into the ground, available from Lowe’s.
• Walmart has all your pickling needs, include a full range of Ball jars and lids.
• Ensure your container-grown radishes are growing in a loose, well-draining mix such as the Back to the Roots Organic All-Purpose Potting Mix available at Home Depot.
• A moisture meter such as the Luster Leaf Moisture Meter available at Ace Hardware is a handy tool to keep by your container garden.

Radishes are an easy and rapidly growing crop that lends itself well to succession planting, which means an entire season of the crunchy, peppery roots. But what about harvesting radishes? Picking radishes at the correct time will enable you to enjoy the crop at its peak and dictate when to sow another planting. If you’re wondering “when do I harvest radishes,” read on to learn how to pick and when to pick radishes.

When Do I Harvest Radishes?

When you think of radishes, many people think of the small, round red type of radish but the fact is that there are a number of different types of radish in a variety of hues and sizes. Knowing what type of radish you are growing will tell you when to pick radishes. The small red radish most of us are used to will be ready to harvest as soon as three weeks from planting. You can begin picking radishes when the roots are about an inch (2.5 cm.) across. Just pull one out to check on the size. For winter radishes, such as Daikon, which can grow quite large before their quality deteriorates, pull before the ground freezes. Winter radishes can be stored in moist, cold storage for up to four months. If you leave them too long before harvesting radishes, the root becomes quite pithy and, as temperatures warm, you risk the plant bolting.

How to Pick Radish

As previously mentioned, a good way to tell if the radishes are ready to be harvested is to simply pull one from the soil. If the soil is particularly crusted or hard, use a garden fork or trowel to gently lift the root from the soil. Cut the tops and tail root from the radishes and wash them. Dry them well and store them in the refrigerator in a plastic bag until ready to use. Don’t forget about the radish greens! They are also edible and can be stored separately for up to three days. Radishes can be planted and enjoyed throughout spring, summer and fall. They are great in salads and pasta dishes.

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) impart a spicy, peppery flavor and crunchy texture to salads. They provide a decorative accent on relish trays. When cooked, they maintain their flavor and texture, making radishes an excellent addition to roasted root vegetable medleys. Plus, growing radish plants is one of the easiest vegetables that gardeners can cultivate.

How are Radishes Grown?

Radishes are generally grown from seed and require a loose soil for proper root formation. Composted manure, grass and leaves can be added to improve soil fertility. Removing rocks, sticks and inorganic debris from the planting site is recommended.

Radishes grow best in cool weather and consistently moist soils. Heavy rains can compact soil and form a hard crust on the surface which inhibits root formation. On the other hand, drought stress makes radishes tough and alters their mild flavor.

How to Plant Radishes

Spade or till the soil to depth of 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm). Sow seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring or in late summer for a fall crop.

Plant radish seeds ½ inch (1.25 cm) deep. Space seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart by hand, with a seeder or use radish seed tape.

Water lightly to prevent soil crusting and compaction. Germination takes 4 to 6 days. For a steady harvest, use succession planting by sowing radish seeds every 7 to 10 days.

The following radish planting tips should also help:

• If the soil becomes crusty, lightly sprinkle the surface with water. Gently break up the surface using your hand or a small cultivator.
• As radish roots reach an edible size, harvest every other one to increase the space between remaining plants.
• Radishes need 1 inch (2.5 cm) of rain or supplemental water a week. Water radishes deeply, as they have large taproots and few horizontal roots.
• Growing radish plants in full sun gives the best yields, but radishes can also tolerate light shade.
• Weed or mulch to control weeds.
• Plant several radish varieties for different colors, sizes and flavors.

When are Radishes Ready for Harvest?

Radishes mature quickly with most varieties being ready for harvest in 3 to 5 weeks. Radishes can be harvested at any usable size. Smaller radish roots tend to be zestier. As roots mature, they become tougher. If left in the ground too long, radishes will turn woody.

When radishes near maturity, sometimes the tops of their swollen roots will begin to emerge from the soil. One way to check on their progress is to pull up a sacrificial radish plant to see if the roots have reached a usable size.

To harvest round types of radishes, firmly grasp the foliage and base of the plant and gently pull the radish root from the soil. For longer radish varieties, like daikon, use a shovel or fork to loosen the soil so the root doesn't break when pulling. Harvested radishes store well in the refrigerator for several weeks.