Although it’s technically a vegetable, rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is widely consumed as a fruit in desserts such as crumbles and pies, as well as a preserve. Strawberry rhubarb pie is a particular summer favorite. You can grow rhubarb in USDA zones 3-8, and enjoy a spring harvest of these tart, tasty stalks in the second year after starting plants from crowns.

Once these perennial vegetable crops are established, rhubarb care is delightfully straightforward. But have you ever tried the sweetened stalks of forced rhubarb? Indeed, did you even know you can enjoy earlier spring harvests with this clever cheat, designed to fool the plant into early stalk production? Forced rhubarb is the most flavorful and tender rhubarb you can enjoy, and it’s utterly perfect for pies. What’s more, it’s so simple. Here’s how to master forcing rhubarb in 3 easy steps.

Why Force Rhubarb?

The obvious benefit of rhubarb forcing is getting an earlier rhubarb harvest. You can expect to be able to pull out tasty stalks 3-6 weeks earlier than if left to develop and mature naturally. Forcing these tart-and-tasty perennial vegetables might sound like a pro gardening move, but it’s oh-so-easy, and you can try it on several rhubarb varieties. It’s also cost-effective. You can use whatever you have to hand to cover your plants. There’s no need to buy any costly additional tools or materials.

What not all gardeners realize is that these early stalks also taste better after forcing. The exclusion of light means they grow pale and tender, which impacts flavor. Rather than the tartness of traditional rhubarb harvests, forced rhubarb stalks have a delectable sweetness that trumps stalks harvested at the usual time. This makes them perfect for pies, crisps, crumbles and a host of spring and summer desserts.

How to Force Rhubarb

Rhubarb forced for earlier harvesting is not something veggie growers tackle in the first few years. Forcing rhubarb may seem a little ‘out there’ but it isn’t a complicated process if you follow some simple steps. The only warning is not to try forcing very young rhubarb, so never attempt to harvest a rhubarb in its first year. Plants need time to grow and develop. In the second year, you can harvest lightly. By the third year, you can harvest fully and try the forcing method for earlier stalks.

For established plants, this is a great hack for faster harvests. Rhubarb is often one of those perennial crops you plant and forget, but this hack could change the way you harvest rhubarb and will certainly elevate your taste expectations! So just follow these easy steps.

1. Ensure a Good Winter Sleep

Resist the urge to start forcing your rhubarb too early. Rhubarb is a cool-season crop, and it needs a period of cold temperatures to eventually break the dormancy phase and begin to grow. Rhubarb will only grow successfully when it has a continuous period of temperatures below about 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4°C).

This winter sleep period should last for at least 6-8 weeks, so don’t start force the process too early. The ThermoPro TP60 Hygrometer Outdoor Thermometer, available from Amazon, is a useful way of gauging outside temperatures as well as humidity.

2. Provide Darkness

When it’s time, begin forcing your rhubarb by placing an opaque container over the crowns to create darkness. Make sure you do this after chilling first. People often use dedicated forcer pots, but you don’t have to use one of these. A bucket, garbage can, old chimney pot, or large clay pot will work. Just make sure the container is opaque (preferably dark if made of plastic) and held in place so it doesn’t blow over. You can get Heavy Duty 45 Gallon Plastic Trash Cans from Walmart.

The darkness forces the rhubarb stalks to grow as they search out light. The energy stored in the plants’ rhizomes is adequate to promote this growth. The result is taller, thinner stalks that are ready to harvest. They’ll also have less oxalic acid, making them taste sweeter and less sour.

3. Give Plants a Thermal Boost

The container placed over rhubarb crowns may be enough to force early, sweet stalks, but you can improve the odds by increasing the temperature around them. Pile up leaves or mulch around the covering container to trap heat in the soil and around the crown.

Use an organic mulch like Back to the Roots Premium Organic Mulch from Amazon, or organic material, aged manure, or straw from your garden. Add around the base of the container to trap soil heat. This extra layer acts as a thermal boost, and will help to mimic warmer spring temperatures sooner, resulting in even earlier growth.

Golden Rules for Forced Rhubarb

Forcing rhubarb is easy and effective, so once you’ve done it you will want to try again and again. However, resist the urge to force each rhubarb plant every year. The process is a little stressful for plants, so you need to adapt a ‘year off’ approach and alternate the process for each plant every two years. Force one crown this year, but next year let it rest and force a different rhubarb plant. If the stalks are growing too thin and weak, you’re overdoing it. Let the plant grow stronger and replenish its energy reserves before you try forcing again.

Another golden rule applies to harvesting. Don’t make mistakes which can damage the plant. The best way to harvest rhubarb stalks is by twisting and pulling. Don’t cut the stalks, as this leaves the plants vulnerable to disease. Remove leaves right away, as these are toxic. Add leaves to your composting area or dispose of them as you would any other yard waste.

Rhubarb Care Essentials

Just a few gadgets and conditioning treatments can help you maintain optimal forcing conditions and guarantee the tastiest rhubarb.

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What are the methods of rhubarb preserving that will help to store this versatile vegetable year around? Rhubarb is a vegetable but is often thought to be a fruit. It is mostly used in sweet applications but can also be a savory addition. It has a short season, only blushing during the spring in most regions. So can you freeze fresh rhubarb? Learn how to preserve rhubarb and enjoy the tart goodness of this gorgeous vegetable even in winter.

Store & Preserve Your Rhubarb Harvest

The best time to harvest rhubarb is when the stalks have become red, although a few varieties never color up and remain green. It is often made into a sauce, added to cake, quick breads, pies, and more. Only the stalks are safe to eat, as the leaves can be toxic. Rhubarb is high in Vitamin C, fiber, and potassium, as well as being low in carbohydrates and calories. Select rhubarb that is firm and without blemish. The more slender stalks are more tender and not as stringy.

How Long Can You Keep Rhubarb After Picking?

The best way to store rhubarb after it has been freshly cut is in the refrigerator. Here are a few tips on how to store rhubarb in the fridge.

• Use the stalks within a few days of harvesting.
• Store rhubarb away from ethylene producing foods like apples or peaches.
• Some cooks like to peel the stalks before use to remove the fibrous filaments but this is not necessary in most cases, except when the stalks are very large.
• To store rhubarb longer it may be canned, frozen, or dehydrated.

Storing Rhubarb in the Fridge

Cut the leaves off the stalks. Wash the vegetables thoroughly. Let them dry a bit and then wrap them in a dampened kitchen towel. Place this in a bag and store it in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator.

The stalks can also be stored vertically in a glass of water in the fridge. Place the cut end into a glass of water that just covers the end and leave the leaves on. Change the water daily. Remove the leaves before use. Rhubarb stored in the crisper will last a bit longer than that in a glass of water.

Best Ways to Store Rhubarb Long Term

Longer term storage of rhubarb requires cooking, drying, or freezing. Cooked rhubarb will become very soft and sauce-like. Frozen rhubarb will retain its shape but once thawed the interior will be softened. Whether you blanch rhubarb before freezing, or freeze it raw will depend upon how it will be used. Dried rhubarb may be reconstituted prior to use if necessary.

Storing Rhubarb in the Freezer

There are 3 ways to freeze rhubarb. The easiest is to wash the vegetable, cut the stalks into 1 inch ( 2.5 cm) sections and place the pieces into a sealed bag or container with the air removed.

The second method will see the vegetable prepared the same way but blanched in boiling water for 1 minute. Immediately remove the rhubarb and chill in an ice bath. Let the fruit dry before placing it in bags or containers to freeze. Rhubarb can also be boiled in sugar syrup. Drain away the syrup before freezing for best results.

Finally, rhubarb can be frozen in a syrup pack. It does not need to be cooked. Cut the vegetable into sections and place it into a container. Fill this with a 40 percent syrup/water ratio. Frozen rhubarb should be used within 12 months.

Drying Rhubarb

To dry rhubarb, wash, dry, and cut the stalks into sections. Smaller lengths will take less time to dry. Lay the pieces out in a single layer in a food dehydrator. After the moisture is removed, seal the food in bags and store in a cool, dark, location for up to 12 months. Rhubarb may also be dried on racks in a low oven. To use the dried vegetable, it may be soaked in hot water for a minute, drained, and added to recipes.

How to Preserve Rhubarb by Canning

By turning the vegetable into a preserve and canning it, rhubarb will last even longer than the other methods. Rhubarb is acidic enough for water bath canning. It can be canned in a simple syrup, or made into chutney, or sauce. Rhubarb can also be cut into pieces and macerated in sugar for 2 hours, which will cause it to release juices. Cook the rhubarb in these natural juices for enhanced flavor. Sterilize the jars, cook the rhubarb, and fill the jars leaving a bit of space at the top. Process them in boiling water for about 15 minutes.

Using Rhubarb

Rhubarb’s tartness makes an excellent chutney to serve alongside meats, especially gamey meat. It can be made into a sauce to top ice cream, or a jam for toast. Add it cooked or dried into cakes, breads, cookies, and pies. Create a rhubarb syrup to add to cocktails and other drinks. A true classic rhubarb use is in a rhubarb strawberry pie. The berries compliment the tart stalks for a perfectly balanced dessert.

Forcing rhubarb allows gardeners to harvest sweeter-tasting stems much earlier in the season, sometimes as early as late winter. While this practice is popular in England, few American gardeners employ this technique. Yet, all it takes is a way to exclude sunlight from the rhubarb crown.

How to Force Rhubarb

There are several ways to force rhubarb, but they all rely on three key factors:

• Chill hours – Rhubarb requires exposure to chill hours, or cold temperatures below 37 degrees F. (3 C.) for a period of 7 to 9 weeks, or 500 hours below 49 degrees F. (9.4 C.).
• Warmth – The return of warmer temperatures triggers the rhubarb to break winter dormancy and begin growing.
• Complete Darkness – Lack of light forces the rhubarb stems to grow taller. The plant puts more energy into the stalks, thus the leaves are smaller and the stems taste sweeter.

Indoor Method

Follow these steps to harvest rhubarb during the winter months:

1. At the end of the growing season when the plants have died back naturally, cut away the old leaves and dig up a portion of each crown. You can also use the entire crown but leave some crowns in the ground for forcing in future years.
2. Place the crowns in the refrigerator to meet the chill hour requirements.
3. Once the chill hours are met, plant the rhizomes in pots and cover with soil, manure-compost and straw.
4. Place the pots in a totally dark, cool location with an ideal ambient temperature around 50 degrees F. (10 C.). Cover the pots, if necessary, to ensure the crowns receive no light.
5. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. The forced rhubarb can be ready for harvest in as little as 4 to 6 weeks.

Shed Method

This is similar to the indoor method except the crowns are potted and placed in an outdoor shed or garage after being exposed to cold temperatures. The crowns can also be potted and placed in an outdoor shed while their chill hour requirements are being met.

Either way, the pots can be moved to a slightly warmer (50 degrees F.) location, or a heat source can be added to the shed or garage to trigger growth. Alternatively, the pots can remain in place until rising outdoor temperatures in late winter or early spring stimulate the crowns to grow. With these methods, it can take 7 to 8 weeks for stems to reach a harvestable size.

What is a Rhubarb Forcer?

Rhubarb can also be forced in the garden. This method doesn't require the crown to be lifted, potted or replanted. But it does require a rhubarb forcing jar to completely block all light from reaching the crown.

A forcing jar is a stylish bell-shaped pot with a removable lid. Traditionally made from terra cotta, plastic forcing jars are also available. The latter has the benefits of being lighter weight, non-breakable and easier to store. Although not as decorative, any light-retarding 20 inch (50 cm.) tall container, such as a bucket or trash barrel, can be used.

The rhubarb forcer can be placed over the rhubarb once the crowns have been exposed to a few cold snaps. To prevent root rot, be sure all old vegetation is cleaned up and make sure the ground isn't saturated before covering the crowns with the forcing jar.

Any holes or cracks in the forcer should be taped over and the jar can be wrapped in old carpet, bubble wrap or filled with dry straw to trap heat. Once the rhubarb starts growing, the jar lid can be taken off during the day to encourage longer stem growth.

Additional Rhubarb-Forcing Tips

• Harvest forced rhubarb stalks when they reach a length of12 to 18 inches (30-46 cm.).
• Expect yields from forced crowns to be about half what the same sized crown would produce if grown naturally.
• Replant forced crowns, but allow them to grow naturally for at least a year before forcing them again. It's best to rotate through your rhubarb plants and choose different crowns for forcing each year.

Rhubarb is not new to the world. It was cultivated in Asia several thousand years ago for medicinal purposes, but more recently is grown for eating. While red stalks on rhubarb are bright and attractive, green-stalk varieties are larger and more vigorous. One to try: Victoria rhubarb. For information about the rhubarb Victoria variety, including tips on how to grow Victoria rhubarb, read on.

Rhubarb Victoria Variety

Most gardeners today grow rhubarb for its tart, succulent leaf stalks. They are often used as “fruit” in pies, jams, and sauces.

Rhubarb is divided into two groups, one with red stalks and one with green. Victoria is among the most popular green-stalked varieties. Don’t be surprised to see red blush in the base of the stalks of the rhubarb Victoria variety as well.

You’ll find several hundred thousand heirloom vegetable varieties in commerce, but only a few are considered all-time greats. These are so high quality they are prized by gardeners everywhere. Victoria rhubarb plants are among them and considered the gold standard in rhubarb.

Those already engaged in Victoria rhubarb growing say that this species has large, fat stems, bright skin, and a wonderfully tart, apple-gooseberry flavor with just a touch of citrus. It is also noteworthy that Victoria rhubarb plants are not stringy at all.

Victoria Rhubarb Growing

If you are wondering exactly how to grow Victoria rhubarb, start your plants from roots or crowns. You can buy these online, through catalogs, or from your local garden store. As with all rhubarb, you’ll need to cultivate the soil first, adding manure, compost, and fertilizer to the soil for this heavy-feeding plant.

Since Victoria rhubarb plants are perennials, site them in an area where you aren’t likely to disturb them during summer growth or winter dormancy. They need a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil, clear of weeds, ideally with average summer temperatures of 75 degrees F. (24 C.).

Plant the roots when you see leaves starting to bud. The crown shouldn’t be more than a few inches (8 cm.) below the soil surface.

For best results with Victoria rhubarb growing, give your new plants deep waterings frequently and, twice a year, fertilize them with a balanced product.

When is the Victoria rhubarb ripe? You don’t have to worry about this. As of the third year, harvest rhubarb stalks when they are large enough to use and keep harvesting any sufficiently large stalks through summer. Note: Don’t eat the leaves, as they contain a toxic acid.

Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable with large leaves and characteristic, thick, red stalks. Often used as pie filling, rhubarb is easy to grow and requires minimal care. So, if your rhubarb is leggy or you're seeing spindly or thin rhubarb stalks, it's time to find out why.

What Causes Small Rhubarb Stalks?

Young Plants

It takes rhubarb plants two years to become established. During this period, it's normal for the plant to produce spindly rhubarb stalks. Harvesting during this establishment period can reduce the vigor of the plant.

The solution: hold off harvesting young rhubarb plants for the first two years. This establishment period allows the plant to develop a strong root system that supports future plant growth.

Overcrowding

Rhubarb is a long-living perennial that can grow for decades. Each spring brings an abundance of new shoots emerging from the crown. Eventually, this causes overcrowding and thinning rhubarb stalks.

The solution: old plants benefit from periodically dividing the crown. This can be done in the spring or fall. To reduce transplant shock, dig rhubarb roots on a cool, cloudy day in the early morning or evening. Keep recently divided transplants well-watered.

Flowering

The formation of flower buds prompts plants to divert energy into the production of blossoms. This may be the cause of your rhubarb being leggy in appearance.

The solution: remove flower buds as soon as they appear. Flowering is a natural part of the plant's life cycle and mature plants tend to be more prolific in terms of flower production. Environmental conditions can also trigger plants to flower. These include insufficient rainfall, high temperatures, or poor soil. Supplemental water and supplying nutrients to the plants help reduce flower production.

Lack of Vigor

Poor soil and drought conditions can reduce a rhubarb plant’s overall health. Seeing thin rhubarb stalks on a mature, established plant that is not overcrowded can be a sign of declining growing conditions.

The solution: In arid climates and during periods of drought, water rhubarb weekly. Apply an organic rich compost to the top of the soil or side dress rhubarb plants with a balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer in early spring.

Competition

Mature rhubarb plants can grow quite large. Competition from other plants or weeds reduces the nutrients available for each individual plant. The result is a decrease in stalk diameter and spindly rhubarb plants.

The solution: allow two to four feet (61 to 122 cm.) between plants and a minimum of three feet (1 m.) between rows. Control weeds with mulch or by shallow hoeing and hand weeding.

Overharvesting

Typically, rhubarb is harvested during the spring months when the stalks are still young and tender. Continually harvesting rhubarb stalks throughout the growing season stresses the plants. This reduces yields and causes thinning stalks the following year.

The solution: harvesting a few stalks from established rhubarb plants for a special summertime treat isn't a problem, but avoid heavy or continual harvesting throughout the summer months.

Incorrect Environment

Rhubarb is a winter hardy perennial which thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 6. Some gardeners report being able to grow rhubarb as an annual in zones 7 and 8.

The solution: for thick stalks and healthy plants, grow rhubarb in areas where the average daily summertime temperature remains below 90 degrees F. (32 C.).

Properly cared for rhubarb plants will produce plenty of thick, red stalks for pies, desserts, and fruit sauces for years to come.

If you are a rhubarb lover, try planting Riverside Giant rhubarb plants. Many people think of rhubarb as being red, but back in the day this veggie was more commonly green. These huge rhubarb plants are known for their thick, green stems that are excellent for canning, freezing, making into jam, and of course, pie. Read on to learn how to grow giant rhubarb plants and other Riverside Giant rhubarb info.

Riverside Giant Rhubarb Info

Rhubarb is a perennial that loses its leaves in the fall and then requires a winter chilling period to produce in the spring. Rhubarb can be grown in USDA zones 3 through 7 and tolerates temps as low as -40 degrees F. (-40 C.). All rhubarbs thrive in cooler temperatures, but Riverside Giant green rhubarb is one of the hardiest varieties of rhubarb out there.

Like other types of rhubarb, Riverside Giant green rhubarb plants rarely suffer from pests, and if they do, the pests usually attack the foliage, not the stem or petiole which is the part we eat. Diseases can occur, especially if giant rhubarb plants are grown in soil that is too moist or in an area with little aeration.

Once Riverside Giant green rhubarb has established, it can be left to grow untended for 20 years or more. It will, however, take about three years from planting before you can harvest the plant.

How to Grow Giant Rhubarb Plants

When planting Riverside Giant rhubarb crowns, choose an area of full sun to partial shade with deep, rich, and moist but well-draining soil in the spring. Dig a hole that is wider than the crown and deep enough so that the eyes are 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) below the soil’s surface. Amend the soil with compost or aged manure prior to planting. Fill in around the crown with the amended soil. Tamp down around the crown and water in well.

Generally, rhubarb does quite well when left to its own devices. That said, rhubarb is a heavy feeder, so apply compost annually or an all-purpose fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions early in the spring.

If you live in a warmer region, mulching around the base of the plant will help keep the soil cool and moist. Keep the soil moist but not sodden.

If the plant quits producing as it should after five or six years, it may have too many offsets and is overcrowded. If this seems to be the case, dig up the plant and divide the rhubarb in the spring or fall.

Rhubarb is a cool-weather vegetable with vibrant, tasty stalks that can be used to make pies, sauces, jams, and cakes. The color of the stalk varies depending on the variety and ranges from red to green with all kinds of variations in between. The Sunrise rhubarb variety is pink and has a thick, sturdy stalk that stands up well to canning and freezing.

About Sunrise Rhubarb Plants

Sunrise is not commonly seen in grocery stores, where most rhubarb is red. This variety produces thick, pink stalks. It adds a pretty new color to the vegetable garden, but Sunrise rhubarb uses in the kitchen include anything from pies and jams to cakes and ice cream sauce.

Thanks to its thick stalk, Sunrise rhubarb is particularly useful for canning and freezing. It will stand up to these storage methods without falling apart or getting too mushy.

How to Grow Sunrise Rhubarb

Like other varieties of rhubarb, Sunrise is easy to grow. It prefers cooler weather, rich soil, and full sun, but it will also tolerate some shade and short periods of drought. Prepare the soil with plenty of organic matter, and be sure it will drain well and not leave standing water to rot the roots.

Rhubarb is most often grown from its crowns, which can be started indoors or out. Transplants of at least 4 inches (10 cm.) high can go outside as early as two weeks before the last frost. Plant crowns so that the roots are 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) below the soil and 4 feet (1 m.) apart from each other. Water young Sunrise rhubarb regularly, less as it matures. Use mulch to control weeds.

Harvesting Sunrise Rhubarb

To keep perennial rhubarb healthy, it’s best to wait until year two to harvest any stalks. Remove stalks once they have reached about 12 to 18 inches (30.5-45.5 cm.) in height. Either twist the stalks to snap them from the base or use shears. For perennial plants, you may be able to harvest in spring and fall but always leave a couple of stalks behind. For annuals, harvest all the stalks at the end of summer.

Use rhubarb right away in baked goods and jams, or preserve the stalks immediately by canning or freezing. Only the stalk is edible; the leaves are actually poisonous, so dispose of them and keep the stalks.

Canadian Red rhubarb plants produce striking red stalks that contain more sugar than other varieties. Like other types of rhubarb, it grows best in colder climates, is easy to grow, and adds beautiful foliage and color to the garden. Read on to learn more about growing Canadian Red rhubarb plants.

Canadian Red Rhubarb Information

Rhubarb is a classic spring vegetable, but one that is treated more like a fruit in the kitchen. The leaves are not edible and are, in fact, toxic, but the stalks can be used in sauces, jams, pies, cakes, and other baked goods.

The bright red stalks of the Canada Red rhubarb variety work especially well in desserts because they have a high sugar content. With these rhubarb stalks, you can make your favorite recipe with less sugar.

Canada Red rhubarb will grow as a perennial and produce stalks you can harvest for about five years. It grows up to 2 or 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m.) tall and will produce 4 to 12 pounds (1.8 to 5.4 kg.) of stalks for each crown you plant.

How to Grow Canadian Red Rhubarb

To grow this rhubarb you will need crowns or transplants. The varieties of rhubarb do not grow true from seed. When planting crowns, make sure the roots are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm.) below the soil. They can be planted as soon as you can get into the soil in spring. These plants tolerate cold very well.

Soil for any rhubarb cultivar should be rich with organic material and should drain well. They won’t tolerate standing water. Rhubarb does best with full sun and will tolerate some shade.

Once planted and beginning to grow, Canada Red rhubarb care is simple. Keep mulch down to suppress weeds and water enough to keep the soil just a little moist. Avoid standing water, which can lead to root rot. Remove any flower stalks as they appear.

When harvesting your Canadian Red rhubarb, wait for the second year. This will give you healthier, more productive plants for a few years. In the second year, avoid harvesting all the stalks, and by year three you’ll have a large harvest.

Growing ornamental rhubarb adds an attractive specimen to a mixed border in the landscape. Large, interesting leaves grow basally and have a reddish bronze underside in summer. The plant has interesting pink, white, and purple blooms (panicles) as well. When combined with medium and small foliage of other plants, the Chinese rhubarb plant (Rheum palmatum) makes a statement in your landscape.

What is Chinese Rhubarb?

You’ve likely heard of rhubarb but may not be familiar with its uses. Rhubarbs are of the buckwheat family and are a diverse group of plants. There are several rhubarb varieties, but this one is botanically called Rheum palmatum var. tanguticum. It is related to the edible rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum), sometimes referred to as R. xhybridum or R. xcultorum.

Can you eat Chinese rhubarb? No. This rhubarb variety is largely ornamental. The Chinese attempted eating the leaves over 5,000 years ago when they utilized the plant for medicinal properties. However, the oxalic acid in the leaves can create problems when consumed in quantity and was often found to be toxic.

Sources say this is the “most pleasing” of the ornamental rhubarbs. So if you’re looking for a showstopping plant or focal point, or if you are in need of something near your pond or water feature, this is a great choice.

How to Grow Chinese Rhubarb

Ornamental rhubarb care starts with choosing the right sunny spot. If you have a spot that retains moisture well and has rich soil, it is likely a good place for planting. If not, find the right sunny spot and be prepared to water regularly.

An attractive covering of mulch helps retain moisture and keep roots cool in summer. This attractive, sprawling specimen does not like heat on the roots in summer.

Multiplying from a single plant is possible by seed or division, called splitting. Splitting is a way to refresh older plants that have slowed in performance because of age. You may take pieces of mature root systems, and then transplant, water and fertilize these for more plants. Don’t divide plants that have been in the ground less than three years, however.

For many home vegetable gardeners, adding new and interesting plants to the garden plot is fun and exciting. Expanding the garden is also a great way to expand their palates in the kitchen. Though most vegetables are grown as annuals each season, some special plants require more time in order to produce a crop.

Rhubarb is an example of a perennial addition to the home garden, and the ‘Crimson Cherry’ variety is especially known for its sweet taste.

Crimson Cherry Rhubarb Info

Rhubarb plants are a popular choice for gardeners who wish to use the stalks in recipes for sauces, pies, and other baked goods. Rhubarb plants are unusual in that only some parts of the plant are edible, while other parts are toxic. This toxicity is caused by the presence of oxalic acid. With any rhubarb, make certain to properly research its use and handling before trying any recipes in the kitchen.

Crimson Cherry rhubarb plants produce stalks that are a magnificent, bright red color. Often reaching heights of 4 feet (1 m.), these robust perennials are extremely cold-tolerant and will likely thrive in northern gardens.

How to Grow Crimson Cherry Rhubarb

Crimson Cherry rhubarb plants are relatively simple to grow. To ensure that the plant is true to type, it is best to grow this variety from transplants. Crimson Cherry plants can be purchased online or may be found in local plant nurseries. When buying plants, growers should look for roots that are still dormant.

Dormant plants can be put into the ground in spring as soon as the soil can be worked. When planting Cherry Crimson rhubarb, be certain to select a location that will not be disturbed. The planting location should be well-draining and receive at least 6-8 hours of sunlight each day.

At planting, place the crown of the plant at least 2 inches (5 cm.) below the surface of the soil. Since the plants will grow quite large, make certain to space the plants at least 36 inches (1 m.) apart. Water the rhubarb consistently until the plants have become established.

Cherry Crimson Rhubarb Care

Beyond planting, Cherry Crimson rhubarb plants require relatively little maintenance. The plants require annual fertilization, which is usually done in the spring.

Plantings of rhubarb should remain weed-free throughout their growth. Growers should not harvest stalks from first-year plantings, as it is very important to allow the plant to develop a strong root system. Never remove more than one-third of the plant during the harvest process.

Everyone is all abuzz about heirloom plants. Victoria rhubarb is one of the best tasting varieties with a long history of use. You might recognize the taste from your grandma's pies. It was developed over 175 years ago and has been in kitchen gardens ever since. It was introduced to commemorate Queen Victoria, a testament to her long life and reign.

What is Victoria Rhubarb?

One of the sweetest and least tart rhubarbs, Victoria rhubarb was offered in 1837, the year Victoria became queen. It can be harvested in its second year and has crisp, tender stems that make excellent cobblers, pies, compotes and wines. Those traits sent its popularity soaring and the plant has been used and traded ever since. Victorian rhubarb history may have started to honor the new queen but it hasn't ended. At the time of its introduction, it was one of the few rhubarbs that had bright red color. Most varieties were yellow and had inferior flavor.

Victorian Rhubarb History

Victoria rhubarb was created by Joseph Myatt of Deptford, England. Rhubarb had been used previously, but the sweeter flavor of this variety encouraged bakers and cooks of the period to expand its culinary range. While, technically, rhubarb is a fruit, it is usually used in desserts. However, rhubarb was also used at the time in many entrees, often included in meat dishes and imparting a sweet tang to sauces and chutneys. Lamb is just one example of a popular meat pairing. Victoria rhubarb ruled the day as the best of its kind. A simple but elegant sauce to use over ice cream is easy to make. Wash rhubarb stems and cut them into bite sized pieces. Place them in a saucepan with enough water to cover the bottom of the pot. Add sugar to taste and a dash of lemon juice. Cook the sauce over medium, stirring often until the rhubarb cooks down. Serve hot or cold over your favorite ice cream.

Growing Victoria Rhubarb

Rhubarb is quite easy to grow. You can plant from seed or transplanted roots. Choose a location with plenty of sun in well-drained soil. It is best not to disturb the plant once it establishes itself, so prior preparation of the soil is essential. Till it deeply and incorporate compost. Plant roots in early spring as soon as soil is workable. If you have purchased bare roots too early to plant, simply store them in moist sand in a cool area until all danger of frost has passed. In about 8 weeks, the new shoots should be poking out of the soil and large leaves unfurl. Keep in mind the leaves are not edible and contain large amounts of oxalic acid, which is irritating to the mouth and stomach.

So, you’ve decided to plant some rhubarb and are in a quandary about what method of propagation is best. The question, “can you plant rhubarb seeds,” may have crossed your mind. Before you get too committed, let’s make sure it’s the right move for you.

About Rhubarb Seed Growing

If I ask you to envision rhubarb pie and rhubarb crumble, what is your response? If you’re salivating and just chomping at the bit, then you may want to rule out growing rhubarb from seed. Seed grown rhubarb actually takes a year longer or more to produce stalks than rhubarb grown from crowns or plant divisions. At a minimum, you will be waiting two years for a decent harvest. Also, if a specific rhubarb variety appeals to you based on characteristics such as stem thickness, stem length, vigor or color, then you would be advised against growing from seed, as you may end up with a plant that doesn’t retain all these coveted attributes from the parent plant. However, if these are not issues for you, then you will definitely want to know how to grow rhubarb plants from seed! So, first off, can you plant rhubarb seeds? Why, yes you can! There is a widespread consensus that rhubarb seed growing should be initiated indoors for the best chances of success. When you plant your seed largely depends on your plant hardiness zone. Those in zones 8 and below will be planting rhubarb seeds in the spring with the intention of growing it as a perennial. Gardeners living in these zones will need to determine their final frost date, as they will want to start seeds indoors eight to ten weeks prior to that date. Those in zones 9 and above will be planting rhubarb seeds in late summer to early fall with the intention of growing it as an annual. It can only be grown as an annual in these zones because rhubarb, a cool season crop, does not thrive in really hot weather.

How to Grow Rhubarb Plants from Seed

When it’s time to start seed, soak your seeds in warm water for a few hours prior to planting as this will help to boost germination rates. Gather up some 4 inch (10 cm.) pots, place them in a bright indoor spot and fill them with a good quality potting soil. Plant two seeds per pot, about a ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep. Seedlings should sprout within twwo to three weeks. Keep the soil evenly moist but not saturated. When the plants reach 3 or 4 inches (8-10 cm.) tall, they are ready to be planted outdoors after a weeklong period of hardening off. For those in zones 8 and below, the target date to plant outdoors is approximately two weeks prior to the last frost when outside temperatures do not dip below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) at night and at least peak around 70 degrees F. (21 C.) during the day. Prepare a garden bed for the rhubarb that is well draining, rich in organic matter, and in an ideal location based on your hardiness zone. Rhubarb can be planted in full sun for those residing in zones 6 or lower, but those in zones 8 and above will want to seek out a location that receives afternoon shade during the hottest months. Try to maintain a spacing of 3 to 4 feet (1 m.) between your planted seedlings and 5 to 6 feet (1.5-2 m.) in between rhubarb rows. Rhubarb seems to grow better when it is given ample growing room. Keep the rhubarb plants well-watered by maintaining consistently moist soil. The use of chemical fertilizers is not recommended during the first year of growth nor is it completely necessary if the rhubarb is planted in organically rich soil as advised.

I must admit I have a rebellious gardening streak that makes an appearance every once in a while. You know – rebellious as in bucking good ol’ fashioned gardening advice because, well, just because. I was a bit sassy with my rhubarb this year. I let it flower. You read that right. I let it flower. I feel a lecture coming on. (sigh) Yes, I do know that I compromised my rhubarb harvest by diverting energy into producing flowers and seed rather than actual edible stalks. Hey, I enjoyed a splendid show of flowers though and now have a rhubarb seed collection for planting more rhubarb next year! So, if you’re feeling rebellious, read on to learn more about how to collect rhubarb seeds and when to harvest seeds from rhubarb!

How to Collect Rhubarb Seeds

You could always obtain rhubarb plant seeds from your local seed supplier but saving rhubarb seedpods from your garden is much more gratifying. However, you may or may not have the opportunity to harvest your own seeds because your rhubarb may not flower in any given year. The probability of flowering, or bolting in rhubarb, increases with certain varieties, the age of the plant, and the presence of certain environmental conditions and stressors such as heat and drought. Keep a close watch on the base of your rhubarb plant for the formation of tightly packed flower pods which, if left to fruition, will emerge into long stalks with unfurled flowers at the top. These flower pods can form at any point during the rhubarb growing season and can appear even in the early spring. Rhubarb can be grown as a strictly ornamental plant and, after setting your eyes on the flower display, it’s easy to see why. You may at this point be tempted to cut the flower stalks prematurely and incorporate them into a flower bouquet, however, you will miss your opportunity for rhubarb seed collection. Patience is a virtue here, as you will need to wait for a transformation to take place after the rhubarb has flowered before you harvest your rhubarb plant seeds. The flowers will turn into green seed and then eventually these seeds and the entire rhubarb branch (as a whole) will dry out and turn brown. This is when to harvest seeds from rhubarb. Saving rhubarb seedpods is easy. Clip the stalks with snips or break the brittle branches off by hand. Hover the branches over a cookie sheet and run your fingers down the stalk, brushing the seeds onto the cookie sheet. Dry the seeds on the cookie sheet for a week or two, then package them up and put in a dark, cool place for storage. It has been said that the shelf life of harvested rhubarb plant seeds does not extend past the second year, so this is something to keep in mind when planning your garden.

I love rhubarb and can’t wait to get at it in the spring, but did you know that you can also force rhubarb to get early rhubarb plant stalks? I confess I had never heard of rhubarb forcing, despite the fact that the cultivation method was developed as early as the 1800’s. If you are also clueless, read on to find out how to force rhubarb.

About Early Rhubarb Plants

Rhubarb forcing can be done indoors or outdoors to produce a harvest out of season. Historically, West Yorkshire, England produced 90% of the world’s winter rhubarb in “forcing sheds,” but the home gardener can replicate forcing rhubarb in winter in a cellar, garage, or another outbuilding – even in the garden. In order to produce by way of forcing rhubarb in winter, the crowns must go into a dormant period and be exposed to temperatures of between 28 and 50 degrees F. (-2 to 10 C.) for seven to nine weeks at the end of the growing season. The length of time the crown needs to be at these temps is called “cold units.” The crowns may go through cold treatment either in the garden or in a forcing structure. In milder climates, crowns can be left to chill in the garden until mid-December. Where temperatures are colder, crowns can be dug up in fall and left in the garden to chill until temperatures become too cold, then they are moved into a forcing structure.

How to Force Rhubarb Plants

When forcing rhubarb, you want the largest crowns; those that are at least three years of age. Dig the roots of the chosen plants up, leaving as much soil on the crowns as possible to prevent frost damage. How many plants should you force? Well, the yield from forced rhubarb will be about half that of the same crown grown naturally outside, so I’d say at least a couple. Place the crowns into large pots, half barrels, or similar sized containers. Cover them with soil and compost. You can also cover with straw for extra frost protection and to help retain moisture. Leave the containers of crowns outside to allow them to chill. Once they have gone through the required chill period, transfer the containers to a cool location, such as a basement, garage, shed, or cellar that has temperatures around 50 degrees F. (10 C.), in the dark. Keep the soil moist. Slowly, the rhubarb will begin to grow stalks. After four to six weeks of forcing, the rhubarb is ready to harvest when they are 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) in length. Don’t expect the rhubarb to look exactly like it does when grown outdoors. It will have smaller leaves and pink, not red, stalks. Once harvested, the crown can be returned to the garden in the spring. Don’t use the same crown for forcing again two years in a row. Allow the forced crown to regenerate and gain energy naturally in the garden.

Rhubarb is not just a tart, pink plant that goes in pie with strawberries. It’s also a large genus of perennial plants, including some that are just as good for decoration in the garden as in a pie. If you aren’t necessarily a fan of the vegetable, but you want a pretty and exotic new plant for your garden, try Rheum australe. Also known as Himalayan rhubarb, care for this perennial is easy and comes with great rewards.

What is Himalayan Rhubarb?

Himalayan rhubarb is one of about 60 perennial plants in the rhubarb family. Nearly all of these can be eaten, including R. australe. The use of Himalayan rhubarb, though, is more often as a showy edition to ornamental beds. The plant is native to the slopes of the Himalayan Mountains and produces large, attractive, dark green leaves topped by dense clusters of reddish purple flowers. You don’t need a lot of Himalayan rhubarb information to grow this pretty plant. Care is easy, and once you get it started, you’ll have year after year of gorgeous pink and green color for your garden with this impressive ornamental rhubarb.

How to Grow Himalayan Rhubarb

Growing Himalayan rhubarb is not difficult and requires little maintenance. It prefers soil that is well-drained and rich in nutrients, but unlike some plants, will tolerate heavy soils rich in clay. Himalayan rhubarb will grow well in full sun, but also tolerates partial shade. It is fairly hardy and can thrive even in climates where the temperature drops down as low as -4 degrees F. (-20 C.). Himalayan rhubarb is also remarkably resistant to pests and diseases. Himalayan rhubarb care is so easy that it makes a great plant for nearly any garden and for all gardening skill levels. It provides yearly ornamental vegetation and flowers, and if you feel so inclined, also provides edible stalks. Just remember that only the stalks of rhubarb are edible. The leaves and roots are toxic.

Rhubarb is often acquired from a neighbor or friend who is dividing a large plant, but bare root rhubarb plants are another popular option for propagation. Of course, you can plant seeds or buy potted rhubarb plants as well, but there is a difference between planting bare root rhubarb and the others. What’s bare root rhubarb? The following article contains information on how and when to plant dormant rhubarb roots.

What is Bare Root Rhubarb?

Bare root plants are dormant perennial plants that have been dug up, the dirt brushed off, and then wrapped in damp sphagnum moss or nestled in sawdust to keep them moist. The advantage to bare root plants is that they are usually less expensive than potted perennials and are often easier to deal with than container grown plants. Bare root rhubarb plants look like woody, dried roots and may sometimes arrive dusted with a powder to keep the root from molding.

How to Plant Bare Root Rhubarb

Most bare root plants available, such as rhubarb or asparagus, are planted during the cool dormant times of the year. Rhubarb is shipped out when it is dormant to reduce the risk of transplant shock and so it can be planted both in the fall and in the spring in most regions. Before planting your bare root rhubarb, choose a sunny location with at least six hours of full sun and remove any weeds. Rhubarb thrives in fertile, well-draining soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 7.0. If planting more than one bare root rhubarb, allow at least 3 feet (1 m.) between plantings. Dig a hole that is about a foot wide by a foot deep (30 cm. x 30 cm.). Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides of the hole so the roots can spread more easily. At this point, if you want to amend the soil a bit, now is the time to do so. Add well-rotted or dry manure and compost along with the topsoil that was removed from the hole. Back fill the hole a bit and position the bare root rhubarb plant so that the crown, opposite of the root end, is 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) below the soil surface. Tamp the soil down lightly over the newly planted rhubarb to remove any air pockets and then water in thoroughly.

Love your rhubarb? Then you probably grow your own. If so, then you probably know that while the stalks are edible, the leaves are poisonous. So, what happens if you put rhubarb leaves in compost piles? Is composting rhubarb leaves okay? Read on to find out if you can compost rhubarb leaves and if so, how to compost rhubarb leaves.

Can You Compost Rhubarb Leaves?

Rhubarb resides in the genus Rheum, in the family Polygonaceae, and is an herbaceous perennial plant that grows from short, thick rhizomes. It is easily identified by its large, triangular leaves and long, fleshy petioles or stalks that are green at first, gradually turning a striking red in color. Rhubarb is actually a vegetable that is primarily grown and used as a fruit in pies, sauces, and other desserts. Also referred to as the “Pie Plant,” rhubarb contains vitamin A, potassium, and calcium – as much calcium as a glass of milk! It is also low in calories and fat, cholesterol-free, and high in fiber. Nutritious it may be, but the leaves of the plant contain oxalic acid and are toxic. So, is it okay to add rhubarb leaves into compost piles?

How to Compost Rhubarb Leaves

Yes, composting rhubarb leaves is perfectly safe. Although the leaves contain significant oxalic acid, the acid is broken down and diluted fairly quickly during the decomposition process. In fact, even if your entire compost pile was made up of rhubarb leaves and stalks, the resulting compost will be much akin to any other compost. Of course, initially, prior to the microbial action of composting, rhubarb leaves in compost piles would still be toxic, so keep the pets and kids out. That said, I’m guessing that’s pretty much a rule of thumb anyway-- keeping the kids and pets out of the compost, that is. Once the rhubarb starts to break down into compost, however, there will be no adverse effects from utilizing it just as you would any other compost. Even if one of the kids got into it, ahem, they would suffer no ill effects except a scolding from Mom or Dad. So go ahead and add rhubarb leaves to the compost pile, just as you would any other yard debris.

Gardeners and pie makers often assume that deep red rhubarb is the sweetest. However, the color of rhubarb actually has very little to do with its flavor. If you’re a fan of bright red rhubarb, guess what? Rhubarb actually comes in several colors, including pink and speckled rhubarb varieties. You may even discover that green varieties of rhubarb are surprisingly sweet, and tend to be more productive! Read on to learn more about a few of the many types of rhubarb.

Rhubarb Plant Types

Here are some popular varieties of rhubarb for the garden: If you prefer red rhubarb varieties, you’ll be delighted with ‘Holstein Bloodred,’ a vigorous plant that produces juicy, deep red stalks. ‘McDonald’s Canadian Red’ is another deep red rhubarb that works well for canning, freezing or rhubarb pies. ‘Canada Red’ is a type of cherry-red rhubarb with a sweet, juicy flavor. Most rhubarb varieties aren’t pure red inside and out, but ‘Colorado Red’ is an exception. This variety, which produces celery-size stalks, is a favorite for jams and jellies because of its attractive color. ‘Cherry Red’ is a sweet, tender variety with long, thick, cherry red stalks. Also known as Large Victoria, ‘Victoria’ produces mid-size stalks that are dark raspberry red at the base, turning greener closer to the leaves. If you’re curious about green rhubarb plant types, ‘Riverside Giant’ is a cold-hardy rhubarb with long, very thick green stalks. A mild-flavored rhubarb, ‘Turkish’ is green inside and out, except for a blush of red at the base. If you’re in the market for rhubarb with an unusual appearance, try ‘German Wine,’ a variety that boasts green stems with pink speckles. This is reportedly one of the sweetest rhubarb plant types available. ‘The Sutton’ isn’t always appreciated for its appearance, which is streaked green and red. However, this rhubarb variety is fragrant, tender, and slightly sweet. With attractive, pink stalks that tend to be thicker than many varieties, ‘Sunrise’ is an all-around variety that works well for freezing, canning, jellies, and pies.

If you have ever seen a rhubarb plant in someone’s garden, then you know that when conditions are optimal, the plant can become huge. So what if you love rhubarb and would like to grow it, but you have limited space? Will rhubarb grow in containers? Read on to learn more.

Will Rhubarb Grow in Containers?

Yes indeed, it is possible to grow rhubarb plants in containers. Almost any plant can be container grown; sometimes it just requires a pot large enough to accommodate it. In the case of rhubarb grown in containers, it’s not necessarily the width of the plant (although that is a consideration too), but the depth is of primary importance, as rhubarb has a large root system. 

If you are going to try container grown rhubarb, use a sturdy container that is at least 20 inches (50.8 cm.) deep and wide. The larger the pot, the larger the plant can grow. When growing rhubarb in pots, the type of container isn’t important, but drainage holes are a must.

Growing Rhubarb in Pots

Grown for its red, pink or greenish-pink stalks, rhubarb (Rheum x cultorum) is a spectacular cool weather perennial hardy to USDA zones 3-8. A healthy plant can live and produce for a good ten years. Which means ten years of delicious desserts and preserves. 

If you are interested in trying your hand at growing rhubarb plants in containers, be sure to use a lightweight, well-draining potting mix. It’s always beneficial to add in some compost as well. Plant divisions or purchased rhubarb crowns in early spring. Set the plant into a hole that is 1-3 inches (2.5-7.6 cm.) deep and back fill around the crown. 

Set rhubarb grown in containers in full sunlight for best results, although rhubarb will tolerate some light shade. Water the crown until it is wet but not sodden.

Care of Container Grown Rhubarb

Rhubarb is really an easy plant to care for, whether grown in a container or in the garden plot. Keep in mind that any plant grown in a pot will dry out more quickly than those in the garden, especially during heat spells. Water this plant down near the soil to keep the leaves dry. 

You can also add 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) of mulch, like grass clippings or bark chips, on top of the soil to help retain water. Garden grown rhubarb is quite self-reliant and generally doesn’t need any fertilization. Container grown rhubarb, however, can benefit from a feeding every year prior to any signs of new growth in the spring. Use ½ cup (120 mL.) of 10-10-10 fertilizer around the base of the plant and water well. 

Be patient and let the rhubarb mature into its second year before harvesting. Remove any flowers that blossom in the spring to allow all the plant’s energy to go into producing stalks. Cut the old stalks back in the fall once the leaves die back.

Rhubarb needs to feel the chill, so while you want to protect the plant's roots before winter, don’t cover the buds or crown with mulch or compost. Divide your rhubarb every five or six years to engender robust stalk production.

Note: Keep in mind that while the stalks are safe to eat, rhubarb leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid, which can be especially harmful to children and pets.

You know how some people are cat people and some are dog people? The same seems to be true with cake vs. pie lovers and I fall into the cake lover category with one exception-- strawberry rhubarb pie. If some of you southern pie lovers would like to sample this culinary delight, perhaps you are wondering about growing rhubarb in warm regions. Up here in the north, we grow rhubarb as a perennial, but what about planting rhubarb in the south?

Rhubarb Growing in Hot Climates

Since I’m from one of the northern states, I just assumed that growing rhubarb in warm climates, such as most of the southern regions of the nation, was out of the question. Good news! I’m wrong! Before we dive into just how growing rhubarb in warm regions is possible, read on for some fascinating facts regarding this vegetable; yes, it’s a vegetable. It is also a cousin to buckwheat and garden sorrel and is native to China where it dates back to 2,700 B.C. Up until the 1700s, rhubarb was used solely for medicinal purposes and, by 1800, found its way into the northern gardens of the United States. In these northern gardens, rhubarb is grown as a perennial with harvest time from late spring through the summer. Southern gardeners have tended to meet with failure when trying to grow rhubarb. They usually purchase dormant root plants to plant as a perennial. The combination of scorching summer heat combined with fungal rot is usually the coup de grace. Okay, but I did say that rhubarb growing in hot climates was possible. How do you go about planting rhubarb in the south?

How to Grow Rhubarb in Warm Regions

The key to growing rhubarb in warm climates is to change your thinking; you will not be growing rhubarb as a perennial. In the southern regions, you can grow rhubarb either from crowns (dormant root plants) or from seed. If you are using crowns, purchase them as early as possible in the spring so their dormancy has been broken, or in the late summer. If you get them in the late summer, you need to cold storage the plants for six weeks. Plant the crowns in the late fall to early winter. If you're going to start your rhubarb from seed, soak the seeds in warm water for a few hours and then plant them in 4-inch (10 cm.) pots filled with potting mix, two seeds per pot. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch (6 mm.) soil and keep them inside at room temp, moist but not wet, until they emerge. At a week old, start fertilizing the seedlings with a dilute liquid plant food as you water them, and move them into a bright window location. Once the seedlings are 4 inches (10 cm.) tall or have three to five leaves, you can plant them in the garden. It's helpful to incorporate several inches (7.5 cm.) of compost into the soil and to plant in raised beds to aid in draining. If your weather is still hot, create a makeshift shelter to protect them until they have acclimated. Keep the plants moist, but not wet, as rhubarb is susceptible to fungal rot. Fertilize them monthly from September through April. Even though rhubarb is a cool-weather vegetable, a hard freeze will damage the ground leaves and petioles, so give the plant some protection if a cold snap is forecast. By spring, the plant should be ready for harvest. In some areas, rhubarb will be greener than red due to the warmer climate or genetic variability. It may not be as vibrant but if you mix in some strawberries (which in many warmer regions mature at the same time), you will still have a lovely red-hued, absolutely sublime strawberry rhubarb pie.

Rhubarb is a cool-weather, perennial vegetable that most people treat as a fruit, using it in sauces and pies. Rhubarb is easy to grow and, for the most part, pest and disease-free. That said, rhubarb is prone to spots on its leaves. What causes rhubarb rust spots and what can be done for rhubarbs that have brown spots? Let’s learn more.

Rhubarb Spots on Leaves

There are a couple of diseases common to rhubarb, which may result in spots on rhubarb leaves. Usually, leaf spots are more of an aesthetic issue and the unsightly spots don’t affect the edibility of the plant. The two most common diseases seen in rhubarb that result in spotted foliage are Ascochyta rei and Ramularia rei.

• Ascochyta leaf spot is first seen as small, greenish-yellow blotches, less than ½ inch (1 cm.) across, on the upper surface of the leaves. Gradually, the blotches develop white centers surrounded by a reddish border further bordered by a grayish-green area. After a few days, the infected areas turn brown, die, and fall out, creating a hole in the stalk which may be confused for insect damage. Ascochyta does not infect stalks, but Ramularia does.
• Ramularia leaf spot appears as small, red dots (rhubarb rust spots) that enlarge to become round lesions of ½ inch (1 cm.) or greater in diameter. The spots become white, then tan with a purple border followed by stalk infection. Stalks develop a white fungus, gradually becoming brown as the tissue dies.

Both of these pathogens produce spores that spread to other plants via wind and splashing water, causing new infections 10 to 14 days later. The spores also remain in any debris left from season to season. Both Ascochyta and Ramulari fungi spread by infected rootstock. Excellent sanitation in the garden is the key to thwarting both of these fungi. Select certified healthy rhubarb and plant it in sunny, well-draining, fertile soil. Keep the area around the plants weed- and debris-free and remove and destroy any leaves that appear diseased. In severe cases of infection, a copper compound may be applied to control the leaf spot. Another disease that may cause spotting is anthracnose stalk rot. Initially, the disease is seen as wilting leaves and large lesions on the stems which enlarge rapidly and turn black. The stalks may become twisted and eventually collapse. As with the previous pathogens, good sanitation practices go a long way to controlling the disease. Remove and dispose of infected foliage or stalks. Also, fertilize the plant as soon as growth appears the next spring and then again as soon as the stalk harvest is over. These diseases are most common in plants that are stressed, so improving their overall health is the key to decreasing the chances of infection.

What Else Causes Brown Splotches on Rhubarb?

While diseases may cause spots on rhubarb, cultural or environmental conditions may be responsible as well. Brown splotches on rhubarb may be the result of pesticide residue, salts, or a combination of both. These may begin as yellow patches seen upon the leaves, gradually becoming reddish brown. Also, if your rhubarb has brown spots, the culprit may just be a healthy-growing rhubarb. Yes, that is correct. Rhubarb needs to be divided every so often; ten years is the maximum amount of time a rhubarb patch should go undivided. I’m not saying an undivided patch will die, just that a divided patch will flourish and thrive over an undivided one. It is possible that if you have rhubarb spots on leaves, all you need to do is dig them up and divide them.

I'm not a pie girl, but an exception can be made for rhubarb strawberry pie. Actually, anything with rhubarb in it is easily coaxed into my mouth. Maybe because it reminds me of the good old days with my great grandmother who made the flakiest pie crust redolent with butter, filled with scarlet berries and rhubarb. 

Her stalks seemed to require very little care and came up reliably year after year, but realistically, I'm sure dividing rhubarb plants was one of her garden chores. So the question is, how and when to divide rhubarb?

Why is Rhubarb Plant Division Necessary?

Rhubarb leaf stalks and petioles are used primarily in sweet treats and, are hence, regarded as a fruit. Actually, rhubarb is a vegetable, but due to its high acidity, lends itself nicely to pies, tarts, jams, and other sweets. Rhubarb is a perennial plant that does indeed require very little care and can be relied upon to return each spring.

 However, if your plant predates the millennium, it is perhaps time for a little refreshing. Why? The root is old and tough and will foster less than premium stalks. Splitting rhubarb will give new life to the plant. 

Rhubarb is usually harvested in the cool, early months of spring, however, rhubarb plant division can extend the harvest period into the summer months.

When to Divide Rhubarb

To renew your rhubarb plant, you will want to dig up the root and divide it. Dividing rhubarb plants should be accomplished in the early spring as soon as the soil warms up enough to work it and prior to the emergence of the tender new shoots.

How to Divide Rhubarb

Splitting your rhubarb plants isn't rocket science. Simply dig around the root clump, 6 inches deep (15 cm.) and lift the whole plant from the ground. Divide the root ball into sections containing at least one bud and up to two to three buds with plenty of roots by cutting down through the crown between the buds. 

Very old plants will have roots that are as dense as wood, so you may need the assistance of a hatchet. Fear not, this is the only hard part of splitting the plant. Keep in mind that the more buds, the bigger the divided plant will be. You can achieve a larger plant by replanting small root divisions with one bud on them in the same hole. 

Plant the new divisions ASAP, otherwise, they begin to dry out, lessening the likelihood of healthy transplants. If, however, you don't have time to finish the job immediately, put the root pieces into a plastic bag and store them in the fridge. Prior to transplanting, soak the refrigerated sections in room temperature water overnight. Select a planting site that is in full sun with a slightly acidic soil pH of 6.5. 

If your soil is particularly dense, form a 4 to 6 inch (10-15 cm.) raised bed to increase drainage prior to planting the new crowns. Amend the soil with 1 to 2 pounds (454-907 gr.) of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square foot (9 sq. m.) of bedding area, along with compost and a handful of rock phosphate or bone meal per planting hole. 

Set the plants 2 to 3 feet apart (61-91 cm.) in rows 3 to 5 feet (91 cm. to 1.5 m.) apart. Plant the new crowns 6 inches (15 cm.) deep so the buds are just beneath the surface. Tamp around the crowns, water in well, and mulch around the plants with 3 inches (8 cm.) of straw.

In the following spring, rake the straw away from the plants and lay down 2 to 3 (5-8 cm.) inches of composted manure around the plants; do not cover the crown. Add a layer of straw atop the manure. Add another 3 inches (8 cm.) of straw as the manure breaks down.

Lastly, if you want to further extend the harvesting season for your rhubarb, be sure to cut the seed stalk from the plant. The making of seeds signals the plant that it's all done for the season. Cutting the seeds will trick the plant into continuing to produce delicious ruby red stalks, thereby extending the delectable season for rhubarb strawberry pie.

The bright colorful stalks of rhubarb make an excellent pie, compote, or jam. This perennial has huge leaves and a tangle of rhizomes that persist year after year. The crown requires cool temperatures to “rest” before the plant regenerates in spring and produces the tangy stems. Your growing zone will dictate the type of rhubarb winter care necessary to keep the plant producing annually.

Rhubarb Growing Conditions

Rhubarb does well in most zones of the United States, with the exception of areas where the winter average is not above 40 degrees F. (4 C.). In these areas, the plant is an annual and produces sporadically. In temperate climates, rhubarb grows like a weed in spring and continues to produce leaves all summer into fall. Over-wintering rhubarb in these zones simply requires a layer of mulch prior to the first freezes. Use 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) of organic compost to enrich the soil for the next season and provide crown protection. Protecting rhubarb in winter with a layer of mulch preserves the crown from excessive cold, while allowing the necessary chill to force new spring growth.

Rhubarb Winter Care in the Warm Zones

Rhubarb plants in warmer regions will not experience the cold temperature necessary for the crown to produce spring stems. Florida and other tropical to semi-tropical zones must plant crowns that have winterized in northern climates annually. Overwintering rhubarb in these zones will require removing the crowns from the ground and providing a chilling period. They literally need to be frozen for at least six weeks and then gradually let the temperature increase before planting. Using this method to winter over rhubarb is cumbersome and fills up your freezer. Warm season gardeners would do better to purchase new crowns or start rhubarb from seed.

How to Winter Over Rhubarb Crowns

As long as the soil is well drained, the crowns will survive even hard freezes with a layer of mulch. Rhubarb plants require a cold period to grow. This means that you can fool a plant into producing stems even out of season. Dig up the crowns in late fall and put them in a pot. Let them stay outside during at least two freeze periods. Then move the crowns inside where the crown will warm up. Put the pots in a dark area and cover the crowns with peat or sawdust. Keep them moist and harvest the stems when they are 12 to 18 inches (31-45 cm.) high. The forced stems will produce for about one month.

Dividing Rhubarb

Protecting rhubarb in winter will ensure healthy crowns that will produce a lifetime. Divide the crowns every four to five years. Pull away the mulch in early spring and dig up the roots. Cut the crown into at least four pieces, making sure each one has several “eyes” or growth nodes. Replant the pieces and watch them produce new healthy plants. If your zone indicates, either dig up the plant and freeze the crown or cover it with a new layer of organic material. Alternately, plant seeds in flats in September and transplant seedlings outdoors in late October.

Many gardeners await the arrival of the recognizable red stalks of their rhubarb plant each spring. But the sight of a rhubarb flower may give even the experienced home grower pause.

If you’ve ever encountered a flower when growing rhubarb in the garden, your first question was likely, "Why is my rhubarb flowering?" We’ll take a look at some of the most common reasons why and what to do, as well as dig into the important question, "Should I let my rhubarb flower?"

What Do Rhubarb Flowers Look Like?

If you find your rhubarb flowering, it’s a bold sight. These spring garden classics are pretty edible plants that add interest to flower beds, as well as delicious tart flavor to both sweet and savory dishes. Rhubarb plant flowers appear in spring once the plant reaches maturity. They appear at the top of long stalks that are longer than the edible stalks and resemble pink-tinged, malformed cauliflowers.

As the flower clusters develop, they grow into large cream-colored panicles that resemble oversized astilbe flowers. Though quite eye-catching, if you’re growing and harvesting rhubarb to eat, it’s best to remove the flower with pruners like the Felco F6 Hand Pruners from Amazon so the plant focuses its energy on plumping up the edible stems.

When a rhubarb plant flowers, it’s known as bolting. Bolting occurs in many plants, such as those in the mustard family or leafy greens like spinach. Cilantro bolting is another common issue in the edible garden.

Why Is My Rhubarb Flowering?

Flowers are a normal part of the plant life cycle. They signal a plant’s attempt to reproduce, since the flowers bear seeds. But bolting can also indicate potential problems.

It’s important to figure out why your rhubarb is flowering to make sure it’s healthy and will continue to give you a tasty spring harvest each year. Here are some of the most common reasons why rhubarb flowers:

Reason #1: It's Old

Plants need to reach a certain maturity in order to reproduce through seed. For a rhubarb plant, that maturity comes a few years after it is planted. The older a rhubarb plant is the more likely the rhubarb will flower and go to seed.

Rhubarb plants can live 10 to 20 years, producing those deliciously tart stems perfect for stewing, pies, and preserves for many springs. Mature rhubarb plants flowering and going to seed is a normal part of the plant’s life cycle.

In many cases, older plants simply need to be rejuvenated by division in order to prevent flowering. Rhubarb performs best when divided every 5 to 10 years. If you have a younger rhubarb plant that’s flowering, though, this is sometimes a sign of an environmental or cultural problem.

Reason #2: It’s the Wrong Variety

Some varieties of rhubarb flower more than others. Heirloom varieties like 'MacDonald' and 'Victoria' produce lots of seed stalks, while more modern varieties like 'Valentine' and 'Canada Red' are less likely to flower.

If the variety of rhubarb in your garden has a tendency to flower, consider replacing it with one that is slow to bolt like 'Ruby Queen' or one of the following varieties:

• 'Sutton'
• 'Champagne'
• 'Red Champagne'
• 'Glaskins Perpetual'
• 'Ruby Red Dwarf'
• 'Riverside Giant'

Reason #3: It’s Too Hot

Rhubarb is a spring crop that grows best in cooler temperatures. An unusually warm spring can cause a rhubarb to start flowering, or bolting.

Other than age and variety, heat is the most common reason why rhubarb bolts. Temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 C) can cause bolting. It is even more common when things get really hot, around 90 F (32 C).

To grow rhubarb in hot climates, keep soil cool. Lay 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plant to stop soil from heating up too much. It is a good idea to cover the whole site once the plant dies back so winter temperatures don’t harm the crown. Pull mulch away again when you see the first signs of growth in early spring.

If your rhubarb is situated in a full sun location in a hot climate, dig it up and relocate it. Plant rhubarb in a spot with rich soil where it won’t get too much hot sun in the spring.

Reason #4: It’s Stressed

Stress can also force a rhubarb to flower. Stress can come in the form of a lack of water, pests, fungus, lack of nutrients, or animal damage. Anything that makes the plant feel threatened can cause it to start flowering and trying to reproduce. This is a natural evolutionary defense and way of helping a particular plant species continue.

Give your rhubarb plants everything they need to grow successfully. Water plants at the base every seven to ten days in the absence of rain. In spring, feed rhubarb with a balanced 10-10-10 granular fertilizer. Cultivate the surface of the soil around rhubarb plants to prevent competition from weeds. Keep hungry animals away with a fence and keep destructive bugs away with a natural pest repellent spray.

Reason #5: It’s Time to Divide

This one goes along with maturity, but even old rhubarb plants can be renovated by dividing them into multiple smaller plants. If your plant is past due on division, it can cause your rhubarb to flower.

Growing rhubarb from seed makes them more prone to flowering compared to vegetatively produced plants. Old rhubarb plants you have not divided in many years, often flower as it attempts to reproduce via seed.

To divide rhubarb plants, dig up the entire crown just before the plant begins to show signs of life in early spring. Cut it into sections that each have a large bud and plenty of root. Replant each new section in rich soil amended with compost.

Should I Let My Rhubarb Flower?

There is no harm in letting your rhubarb flower, but keep in mind that the energy the rhubarb plant puts towards making a flower and growing seeds is energy it won’t direct towards growing leaves and stems. When the flower is allowed to persist and produce seeds, the plant wastes valuable energy on flower and seed development instead of using it to form tart, delicious stalks you can eat.

Since rhubarb is grown for the stems, most gardeners choose to remove the flowers as soon as they appear so the plant can focus its energy on leaf and stem growth. But even if your plant is flowering, you can still harvest rhubarb stems to use in cooking (the leaves are poisonous).

If you choose to remove rhubarb flowers, simply cut them off as soon as they appear.

How to Remove Rhubarb Flowers

It is a good idea to remove the flowering stalk with sharp, clean pruners or a knife, like the Fiskars Folding Produce Knife from Amazon, all the way down to the crown. This will allow the plant to focus its energy on the growing edible stalks and healthy leaves.

A flowering rhubarb can cause a bit of alarm for a gardener, but now that you know more about why a rhubarb bolts and how to prevent or fix it when it happens, there's nothing to worry about. You can still enjoy the wonderful taste of rhubarb grown fresh in your garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nothing says spring like strawberry rhubarb pie! But before you can bake your very own homegrown dessert, you have to learn how and when to harvest rhubarb for peak flavor and freshness. For many beginners, the harvest window can feel a bit mysterious. The stakes feel high because harvesting at the wrong time or in the wrong way doesn't just result in a stringy pie, but can deplete the plant's energy reserves for the following year. Don't worry, though – once you know the tell-tale signs of a ready stalk, you’ll be picking with confidence.

Growing rhubarb in the garden rewards you with years of delicious spring harvests and a beautiful ornamental plant that has a similar effect to a hosta. Rhubarb, a member of the buckwheat family, is a perennial with large leaves borne off of stalks that range from red to green. It is often called the pie plant, and for good reason! These hardy perennials can produce for 10 to 15 years if harvested correctly, making them one of the most generous plants in your edible landscape.

These stalks, or petioles, are the edible portion of the plant and are what gardeners harvest to use in pies, sauces, and jams. Rhubarb is one of the prettiest edible plants and it looks right at home in the vegetable garden or the perennial border. As the weather warms, you'll see the crinkled leaves begin to unfurl from the crown. A great sign that harvest is approaching is when the leaves have fully expanded and the stalks have reached their characteristic thickness, usually about the diameter of a finger.

Despite the popularity of rhubarb in the garden and its deliciously tart stalks in spring desserts, the large leaves of this plant are poisonous. That’s why learning how to harvest rhubarb the right way is important not only for taste, but also for safety. Harvesting rhubarb the wrong way can also harm the plant. It’s vital to use the correct technique and never pick more than the plant can stand to lose. So, is your rhubarb ready for action? Let’s dig into how to harvest rhubarb the right way.

What to Know Before You Harvest

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is most often grown for its leaf stalks. Originally cultivated as a medicinal plant in China and Russia over 2000 years ago, its most common use shifted to cooking in Great Britain and the United States around the 18th century. Benjamin Franklin is often credited with introducing rhubarb to North America, recognizing its value as a hardy crop and a culinary delight.

The underground portion of the plant is made up of rhizomes which survive winter underground. In fact, a cold period near freezing is a necessary part of caring for rhubarb over winter and required for the plant to break dormancy. Most rhubarb varieties require at least 500 hours of temperatures below 40°F (4°C) to produce high-quality stalks the following season. This is why rhubarb thrives so beautifully in USDA zones 3-8 but can struggle in the deep South.

Come spring, buds form off the crown of the plant, unfurling stalks and leaves that can reach a height of 2.5-3 feet (76-91 cm) and nearly the same width across. Before harvesting rhubarb, take a moment to spot your plant's health. Look for vibrant color and firm stalks. If you notice any mushiness at the base of the stalks early in the season, this could be a sign of crown rot, often caused by poor drainage. A healthy plant should feel sturdy and resilient to the touch.

While the exotic leaves look wonderful in the garden, do not eat them. Rhubarb leaves are high in oxalic acid and soluble salts which are toxic to humans. That said, rhubarb is nutrient-rich. It contains vitamins A and C, dietary fiber, thiamin, niacin, riboflavin, phosphorus, and potassium. Even though you can't eat the leaves, they make a fantastic addition to your compost pile; the oxalic acid breaks down during the composting process, leaving you with rich, safe soil for next year.

Rhubarb loves slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.8). Grab a soil meter, like the Sonkir Soil pH & Moisture Meter from Amazon, to check soil is in the best zone for nutrient uptake and that roots aren't sitting in soggy soil.

When to Harvest Rhubarb

Technically rhubarb is ripe all spring and summer. But for the best flavor and the health of the plant, there are certain times that are better for harvesting rhubarb. Depending on where you live, rhubarb season will happen at slightly different times. Generally, rhubarb is ready to harvest in April or May. But in cooler northern climates, you might see the harvest extend into July.

The surest way to know when to harvest rhubarb is to look at the stalks. Depending on cultivar, your rhubarb stalks may be green or red at the time of harvest. So don’t let color be the signal for when to harvest rhubarb. Some heirloom varieties like 'Victoria' stay green even when ripe, while 'Crimson Red' will be deep ruby.

Instead, look at the size of your rhubarb stalks to tell if they are ready. When the stalks reach 10 inches (25cm) long, it is time to harvest. At this size, you can be sure your plant is established and can tolerate harvesting. If your rhubarb stalks are small and spindly, leave them to continue growing. Harvesting stalks that are too thin can stress a young plant.

When harvesting rhubarb, only take one-third of the plant. Taking more than this can harm your rhubarb and weaken or even kill it. Since rhubarb is a perennial, you want to treat it well so it continues to give you plentiful harvests for many years.

Knowing when to harvest rhubarb also means knowing when the season is over. Rhubarb season lasts for about 8-10 weeks, typically ending in June. Though you can keep harvesting rhubarb until fall, this will impede your rhubarb plant’s ability to store energy for the winter. Stop harvesting once the stalks become noticeably thinner. This is the plant's way of saying it needs to keep leaves and recharge.

If you recently planted your rhubarb, wait two years after planting to harvest. This will ensure the plant’s crown and root system is established and can tolerate harvesting. In your plant’s third year, you can harvest rhubarb for a month. In the following years, you can harvest rhubarb for 8-10 weeks.

If you are looking for an earlier, sweeter crop, some gardeners choose to force their rhubarb by covering the crowns in late winter to block out light.

How to Harvest Rhubarb

There are two different methods to harvest rhubarb. The first way is to use a sharp, clean knife like the Fiskars Harvesting Knife, available from Amazon, or garden shears like the Felco F6 Pruning Shears (also available from Amazon) to cut the stalk at the base of the plant. Be sure to cut at the base and not part way up the stalk as this creates an open wound where disease can enter and harm your plant. Since rhubarb is a perennial edible plant, it’s important to think beyond this year’s harvest and consider the long-term health of your plant.

The second rhubarb harvesting method is even easier than the first and it doesn’t require any tools. Grasp a rhubarb stalk at the base, then gently twist and pull to remove. This twist and pull method is often preferred because it naturally detaches the stalk from the socket, leaving no stump behind. Just be careful not to tug so hard that you lift the roots.

Cut off and compost rhubarb leaves after harvesting the stalks. If you have children or pets, do not leave rhubarb leaves in the garden or kitchen. Rhubarb leaves are poisonous, so discard them quickly to prevent humans or pets from accidentally ingesting them.

If rhubarb flowers appear, cut them off immediately. When rhubarb blooms, also known as bolting, this diverts all the plant’s energy away from producing edible stalks and instead channels it toward flowering and setting seed. Bolting is often triggered by a sudden spike in temperature or plant stress. By snipping the flower stalk at the base as soon as it appears, you signal to the plant to get back to growing delicious petioles.

How to Store Rhubarb

Wash or wipe down the stalks with clean water before storing your rhubarb harvest. You may store freshly cut rhubarb in a plastic bag in the fridge for two to four weeks. For maximum crispness, some experts suggest wrapping the stalks loosely in a damp paper towel before placing them in a perforated plastic bag in the crisper drawer.

Another easy and delicious option is to cook your harvest into rhubarb sauce, then refrigerate or freeze for later use. If you want to freeze it raw, chop the stalks into one-inch (2.5cm) pieces and spread them out on a baking sheet to flash-freeze before transferring them to a freezer bag. This prevents the pieces from clumping, allowing you to pour out exactly what you need for a mid-winter muffin craving.

To keep your rhubarb at its best, never store it with the leaves attached. The leaves will continue to draw moisture from the stalks, causing them to go limp and rubbery within hours. Trim them immediately in the garden to keep that crunch intact.

Rhubarb Care After Harvesting

Once the harvest season wraps up in late June, your rhubarb plant deserves a little appreciation for its hard work. This is the most critical time for ensuring a great crop for next year. To prevent plant exhaustion, ensure you leave at least one-third (ideally half) of the foliage on the plant throughout the summer. These remaining leaves help your rhubarb recharge the rhizomes for the following spring.

Giving the plant a deep, nourishing drink. Rhubarb is a thirsty plant, and a consistent supply of water during the hot July and August months is essential. Follow this with a generous application of well-rotted manure or high-quality compost around the base of the plant, being careful not to bury the central crown, which can lead to rot.

A 2-inch (5cm) layer of mulch is perfect for retaining moisture and suppressing weeds that might compete for nutrients. You can buy Natural Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets from Amazon for a tidy look while slowly breaking down to improve soil structure. That’s all there is to harvesting rhubarb. Now that you know when and how to harvest rhubarb, it’s time to start picking and eating these tasty spring stalks.

Other Rhubarb Care Treats

Frequently Asked Questions

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How To Grow Rhubarb Like A Pro

Rhubarb is a wonderful cool-season vegetable that mostly shows up in sumptuous desserts! It is easy to grow and supplies nutritious stalks for many years. In this article we will explore how to grow, care for and harvest rhubarb.

Quick Facts

• Botanical name: Rheum rhabarbarum L.
• Height: 2.5 to 3 feet (0.76 to 0.9 m.)
• Spread: 3 to 3.5 feet (0.9 to 1 m.)
• Sun exposure: Full sun to part shade
• Soil requirements: Well-drained soil with organic matter
• Hardiness zones: 4 to 7
• When to plant: Early spring or fall

Rhubarb is a hardy, early spring vegetable that reminds many people of their youth when grandma grew it. Only the stems (petioles) are edible but they are sour if eaten fresh. Most people grow it for use in desserts, often with strawberries and in pies, cakes, sauces, or jellies. It packs a punch of nutrients: Vitamins A and C, thiamin, niacin, riboflavin, and dietary fiber.

Since it is a perennial vegetable that can produce for more than 10 years, plant it on the edge of your vegetable or ornamental gardens so it won’t be in the way of your annual plantings.

A word of warning: The leaves and roots of rhubarb are toxic. They contain high levels of oxalic acid along with anthraquinone glycosides that should not be consumed. However, the edible stalks also contain small amounts of oxalic acid, but you would have to eat large amounts of the stalks to be affected.

Tips for Growing Rhubarb

Here are some tips on how to grow rhubarb, how to care for the plants, and how to harvest juicy home-grown rhubarb.

Light

Rhubarb should be planted in a full sun site but it can tolerate part sun.

Water

Rhubarb plants need 1 inch (2.54 cm.) of water a week during the growing season.

Temperature & Humidity

Rhubarb is a cool-season vegetable that thrives in spring. It needs temperatures less than 75 degrees F (24 C.) to grow well. The leaves will die back with the first hard frost.

Soil

The soil should be well drained with lots of organic matter. Loamy soil is preferred to other types but it can tolerate all soils. Add compost or well-rotted manure to increase the organic matter and fertility so the plant will thrive for years.

Fertilizer

When planting, add a fertilizer labeled 11-15-11 into the soil (2 cups per 100 square feet of space) or add generous amounts of compost. Rotted manure will increase the organic matter.

Each year thereafter, side-dress with 3 ⁄ 4 cups of 11-15-11 fertilizer per plant in early spring when new growth starts. After harvesting, apply a second fertilization of ½ cup of nitrogen only such as 16-0-0 to promote leafy growth during the summer.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Rhubarb requires little maintenance once established and is not usually bothered by pests and disease. In soil that is not well drained, however, it can succumb to root rot.

Leaf spot diseases may occur. If it does, pull the infected stems and discard them. Also, discard all the foliage after the first hard frost.

Occasionally, rhubarb will show symptoms of a virus - discolored leaves and abnormal growth. It is best to discard a plant suspected of being infected with a virus.

Rhubarb curculio is a snouted beetle that can bore holes into the stalk and crown. Stalk borers also can bore holes into the plant. Be sure to remove grassy weeds as they will attract these insects. Curly dock is a host plant for rhubarb curculio.

Pruning

Pruning is not necessary except to remove damaged leaves, flower buds, and seed stalks. If the plant goes to seed, remove the seed stalk as soon as you notice it. It is a waste of energy for the plant to produce flowers or seeds.

Propagation

You can divide rhubarb every six to 10 years. Using a sharp shovel, cut the clump into halves or thirds. Replant in a new area and share some of the divisions.

Rhubarb can be started from seed about six weeks before the last spring frost. Lightly cover the seed and keep it moist. Harden off the plants before moving outside.

Plant crowns 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm.) deep in the soil. Allow about 3 feet by 3 feet (1 by 1 meter) of space for one plant, which is usually sufficient for a family. Mulch around plants to discourage weeds and warm the soil.

Harvesting

Harvest rhubarb stalks in spring when it is established. Do not harvest the first year and only harvest a few stalks the second year. The third year and thereafter, harvest until the stems start to thin in early summer (about 8 to 10 weeks).

Always leave about one-half of the plant unharvested so it can replenish for the next year.

To harvest a stalk, grasp the stem at the base and twist. Store fresh rhubarb in the refrigerator for two to four weeks.

Remove and discard the leaves or add them to the compost pile. Even though the leaves contain oxalic acid, it decomposes rapidly and won’t affect the compost.

Varieties

Varieties vary in color from green to almost red. The redder varieties look more appetizing in desserts than the greener varieties that may turn gray when cooked. Recommended cultivars for USDA zones 4-7 include MacDonald, Crimson Red, Victoria, Canada Red, and Cawood Delight. Cherry, Ruby, and Strawberry varieties are desired for their bright red stalks.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

• Is rhubarb toxic? The leaves and roots are toxic and should never be eaten. The stalks are edible although they, too, contain small amounts of oxalic acid and should not be eaten in large quantities. People with certain conditions may want to avoid rhubarb altogether: Kidney disorders, gout, rheumatoid arthritis,
• Does a late freeze force oxalic acid into the stalks? No scientific evidence to prove or disprove that theory is available, but stalks that suffered a late freeze would be frozen and mushy, and likely unappetizing. It is probably wise to err on the side of caution and avoid eating frozen stalks.
• Can I harvest stalks in mid summer? Although you need to stop harvesting in early summer so the plant can replenish, it is okay to occasionally harvest during the summer for a special event. It will not harm the plant.
• Can rhubarb be frozen? Yes! You can store rhubarb in the freezer while you wait for other fruits and vegetables to ripen to serve with it.