If there's one group of plants I'll always have a soft spot for, it's evergreens. Particularly (you guessed it) evergreen perennials.

Why? Well, as much as I look forward to spring bulbs bursting into life or summer borders overflowing with blooms, I've come to appreciate that it's evergreen plants that quietly do the heavy lifting in a garden.

Think about it: they're there in every season, providing a burst of much-needed color (sometimes I think we all forget that green is a color) when everything else has died back, creating beautiful backdrops for flowering perennials, and bringing the sort of lush permanence that makes a space feel established.

Gardeners Are Obsessed With This Striking Evergreen Perennial

While plenty of evergreens are happy to play a supporting role, others are born to be the star of the show. The Japanese sago palm (Cycas revoluta) is one of them.

With its perfectly symmetrical crown of feather-like fronds (not to mention that glossy emerald hue), the Japanese sago is exactly the kind of plant that stops you in your tracks. It also happens to be older than the dinosaurs, though, so why is it having such a sudden surge in popularity now?

Well, over in the UK, this evergreen perennial was named one of the standout plants at this year's RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Sitting pretty in Tom Stuart-Smith's breathtaking Tate Britain Garden, which was designed around the power of foliage rather than flowers, the garden used texture and dramatic leaf shapes to create an almost jungle-like atmosphere.

According to Stuart-Smith, the plant has long been admired in warmer parts of Europe, including southern France and Mallorca, but has rarely been used in British gardens because it's often considered too tender.

With milder winters becoming more common in some regions, however, he believes carefully positioned cycads like the Japanese sago have an exciting future. And RHS Wisley Curator Rob Brett (who branded it it his favorite plant of the show) agrees, predicting it could become an increasingly important choice for gardeners looking to push planting boundaries.

Unlike flowering plants that have a relatively short season of interest, Japanese sago palms earn their keep all year round thanks to their evergreen foliage. They're also surprisingly versatile, pairing beautifully with ornamental grasses, palms, agaves, and flowering perennials.

Better still, they're surprisingly low maintenance; think drought-tolerant once established and slow growers, which means they maintain their magnificent shape for years with very little need for pruning and constant upkeep.

Still, if you're tempted to add one to your own yard, it's worth remembering that this isn't a plant for every climate; Japanese sago palms prefer partial shade or filtered sun and thrive in moist but well-drained soil. And, while they can tolerate the occasional light frost once established, this evergreen perennial is only considered half-hardy, so gardeners in colder regions will have the best success growing them in containers that can be moved to a sheltered spot during winter.

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That being said, there aren't many plants you can grow that have survived since the age of dinosaurs. So if that means popping one in a pot on a patio or by a front entrance, you'd better believe I'll be doing it (and telling everyone about my prehistoric beauty if they even think about breathing a compliment about it in my presence).

Join me in my new Jurassic obsession, why don't you?

Caring for bonsai sago palms is quite simple, and these plants have an interesting history. Although the common name is sago palm, they are not palms at all. Cycas revoluta, or sago palm, is native to southern Japan and a member of the cycad family. These are tough plants that existed back when dinosaurs still roamed the Earth and have been around for 150 million years.

Let’s take a look at how to care for the remarkable sago palm bonsai.

How to Grow a Miniature Sago Palm

The stiff, palm-like leaves emerge from a swollen base, or caudex. These plants are very tough and can survive in a temperature range of 15-110 F. (-4 to 43 C.). Ideally, it is best if you can keep the minimum temperature above 50 F. (10 C.). 

In addition to tolerating a wide range of temperatures, it can also tolerate a large range of light conditions. The bonsai sago palm tree prefers to grow in full sun. At a minimum, it should receive at least 3 hours of sun a day to look its best. If your plant isn’t receiving any sun and is in darker conditions, the leaves will stretch and become leggy. This is obviously not desirable for a bonsai specimen where you want to keep the plant smaller. As new leaves are growing, be sure to turn the plant periodically to encourage even growth.

This plant is also very forgiving when it comes to watering and will tolerate a bit of neglect. When it comes to watering, treat this plant like a succulent or cactus and allow the soil to completely dry out in between thorough watering. Make sure that the soil is well-drained and that it never sitting in water for extended periods of time. 

As far as fertilization, less is more for this plant. Use an organic liquid fertilizer at half strength about 3 or 4 times per year. At a minimum, fertilize when new growth starts in spring and again in late summer to harden off the new growth. Don’t fertilize when the plant is not actively growing. 

Sago palms like to be root bound, so only repot into a container that is one size larger from where it was previously. Avoid fertilizing for a few months after repotting.

Keep in mind that these plants are extremely slow-growing. This makes sago a great choice for bonsai growing, as it won’t get too big in its container environment.

Another important point to note is that sago palms contain cycasin, which is a toxin to pets, so keep them out of reach of any dogs or cats.

For those living in mild regions, sago palms are an excellent choice to add visual interest to home landscapes. Sago palms have also found a place indoors among potted plant enthusiasts. Though not technically a type of palm, these easy-to-grow cycads continue to gain popularity. If you’re lucky enough to have one flowering or know someone else that does, you can use the seeds from a sago palm to try your hand at growing a new plant. Read on for tips on preparing sago palm seeds for planting.

Growing Sago Palm from Seed

Those wishing to grow sago palms have several options. Most commonly, the plants can be purchased online or at garden centers. These transplants are generally small and will take several years to gain size. However, their care and planting is simple.

More adventurous and budget savvy growers, on the other hand, may look into the process of how to plant sago palm seeds. Sago palm seed germination will first rely on the seed itself. Sago palm plants can be either male or female. In order to produce viable seed, both mature male and female plants will need to be present. In lieu of available plants, ordering seeds from a reputable seed supplier will be key in obtaining seed that is likely to germinate.

Seeds of the sago palm are usually bright orange to red in appearance. Like many large seeds, be prepared to wait patiently, as sago palm seed germination may take several months. To begin growing sago palm from seed, growers will need a quality pair of gloves, as the seeds do contain toxins. With gloved hands, take the seeds from a sago palm and plant them into a shallow seed starting tray or pot. In preparing sago palm seeds for planting, all outer husks should have already been removed from the seed – soaking in water beforehand can help with this.

Arrange the sago palm seeds in the tray horizontally. Next, cover the seeds with a sandy based seed starting mix. Place the tray in a warm location indoors which will not go below 70 degrees F. (21 C.). Keep the tray consistently moist through the sago palm seed germination process.

After several months, growers may begin to see their first signs of growth in the tray. Allow the seedlings to grow in the tray at least three to four more months before attempting to transplant them into larger pots.

Despite the name, sago palms are not actually palm trees. This means that, unlike most palms, sago palms can suffer if watered too much. That being said, they might need more water than your climate is going to give them. Keep reading to learn more about water requirements for sago palm trees and tips on how and when to water sago palms.

When to Water Sago Palms

How much water do sago palms need? During the growing season, they need moderate watering. If the weather is dry, the plants should be watered deeply every one to two weeks. Sago palm watering should be done thoroughly. About 12 inches (31 cm.) away from the trunk, build up a 2 to 4 inch (5-10 cm.) high berm (a mound of dirt) in a circle surrounding the plant. This will trap water above the root ball, allowing it to drain straight down. Fill the space inside the berm with water and allow it to drain down. Repeat the process until the top 10 inches (31 cm.) of soil are moist. Don’t water in between these deep waterings–allow the soil to dry out before doing it again. Water requirements for sago palm trees that have just been transplanted are a little different. In order to get a sago palm established, keep its root ball consistently moist for the first four to six months of growth, then slow down and allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Watering a Potted Sago Palm

Not everyone can grow a sago outside in the landscape so sago palm watering for those that are container grown is often performed. Potted plants dry out more quickly than plants in the garden. Watering a potted sago palm is no different.

• If your potted plant is outdoors, water it more frequently, but still allow the soil to dry out in between.
• If you bring your container indoors for the winter, you should slow down watering considerably. Once every two to three weeks ought to be enough.

Sometimes when plants are young and small, we plant them in what we think will be the perfect location. As that plant grows and the rest of the landscape grows up around it, that perfect location may become not so perfect anymore. Or sometimes we move to a property with an old, overgrown landscape with plants competing for space, sun, nutrients, and water, choking each other out. In either case, we may need to transplant things or do away with them altogether. While some plants transplant easily, others do not. One such plant that prefers not to be transplanted once established is sago palm. Should you find yourself needing to transplant a sago palm, this article is for you.

When Can I Transplant Sago Palms?

Once established, sago palm trees do not like to be moved. This does not mean that you can’t transplant sago palms, it just means that you must do it with extra care and preparation. The timing of transplanting sago palms is important. You should only attempt to move a sago palm in late winter or early spring when the plant is in its semi-dormant stage. This will reduce the stress and shock of transplanting. When semi-dormant, the plant's energy is already being focused on the roots, not top growth.

Moving a Sago Palm Tree

Approximately 24 to 48 hours before any sago palm tree transplanting, water the plant deeply and thoroughly. A long slow trickle from a hose will allow the plant plenty of time to absorb the water. Also, pre-dig the hole in the location where you will be transplanting the sago palm. This hole should be big enough to accommodate all the roots of your sago, while also leaving plenty of loose soil around the roots for new root growth. The general rule when planting anything is to make the hole twice as wide, but no deeper than the plant’s root ball. Since you have not dug up the sago palm yet, this may take a bit of guesswork. Leave all soil dug out of the hole nearby to backfill once the plant is in. Timing is important, as again, the quicker you can get the sago palm replanted, the less stressed out it will be. When it is actually time to dig up the sago palm, prepare a mixture of water and rooting fertilizer in a wheelbarrow or plastic container so that you can place the plant in it immediately after digging it up. While digging up the sago, take care to get as much of its root structure as possible. Then place it in the water and fertilizer mix and quickly transport it to its new location. It is very important to not plant the sago palm any deeper than it was previously. Planting too deep can cause rot, so backfill under the plant if necessary. After transplanting the sago palm, you can water it with the remaining water and rooting fertilizer mixture. Some signs of stress, like yellowing fronds, is normal. Just carefully monitor the plant for several weeks after transplanting it and thoroughly water it regularly.

Sago palms can be a beautiful addition to landscapes in tropical zones. They can also be large dramatic houseplants in cooler climates. Though, sago palms are actually in the cycad family and not actually palms, they can be susceptible to many of the same fungal disease as true palms. Continue reading to learn more about rot diseases in sago palm trees and how to prevent them.

What Causes Sago Palm Root Rot Problems?

Most sago palm rot comes from the fungal pathogen Phytophthora, which can infect any part of the plant. These harmful fungal spores are usually spread via water, insects, tools that have not been cleaned between use, and infected plants rubbing against other plants. Sago palm root rot can also be caused by soil or mulch being piled up on the root crown or soil that does not drain properly. Oftentimes, sago palm rot is a secondary condition that happens when the plant is deficient of nutrients or has been damaged.

Controlling Rot Diseases in Sago Palm Trees

Prevention is the most effective way to deal with rot diseases on sago palm. When watering, apply a slow, steady flow of water right at the root zone but not directly on the crown/trunk of the sago palm. This will prevent splash back of possibly infected soil and keep the aerial parts of the plant drier. A slow watering also allows plants to absorb more water, reducing run off. Sago palms prefer some shade during hot afternoons. It’s best to water them in the morning to give them plenty of sun to dry off any splashed water.

Before planting a sago palm, you should check the site’s drainage. If it doesn't drain properly, amend it to prevent future fungal problems. Adequate airflow is also important in preventing sago palm rots. Crowded plants can infect each other with fungal disease and create damp, shady areas that fungal pathogens can thrive in.

Always clean your pruners with rubbing alcohol or bleach water after each use. Open wounds from weed trimmers, mowers, animal damage, etc. can let disease and pests into plants.

If sago palms are planted too deeply or heavily mulched at the root crown, they can be prone to crown rot. Keeping your beds weed-free can also prevent the spread of many fungal diseases. Pink rot is a common fungal disease of sago palms. It is easily identified by its visible pink spore clusters that form on any part of the plant. Other symptoms of rot diseases in sago palm include:

• cankers
• brown syrupy sap oozing out of the trunk
• yellowing, deformed or dropping fronds
• continual wilted look of the plant

You should remove infected foliage and then treat the plant with a fungal spray or systemic fungicide if you suspect sago palm rot.

When plants are grown in containers in nurseries, many valuable nutrients can leach out of the soil from frequent watering. When buying a sago palm as a houseplant, you should repot it in new, fresh soil.

Whether a houseplant or a landscape plant, sago palms have a high need for magnesium. Nutrient deficiencies can make plants more susceptible to pests and disease. To keep your sago palm healthy, fertilize it with a specialized palm fertilizer which should have extra magnesium (with N-P-K-Mg numbers like 12-4-12-4). A general 10-5-10 fertilizer will also be fine, but sago palms do best with slow-release fertilizers.

Sago palms are native to southern Japan. Oddly, these plants aren't even palms but are cycads, a group of plants that predate the dinosaurs. Can Sagos grow in the garden? Growing Sago palms outdoors is only suitable in USDA zones 9 to 11. That means they cannot survive sustained freezing temperatures and are more suited to tropical and sub-tropical regions. However, there are ways to raise a Sago outside even for northern gardeners.

Can Sagos Grow in the Garden?

If you are looking for a touch of the exotic, with tropical flair and ancient sophistication, you can't go wrong with a Sago palm. Outdoor Sago palm plants are easy to grow and have a slow growth rate that makes them perfect container plants. You can also grow the cycad as an indoor houseplant in cooler climates. In summer you can bring your Sago outside until cold temperatures arrive. As a cycad, Sagos are more closely related to conifers than palms. However, their feathery, large fronds and rough trunk bring to mind a tropical palm tree, so hence the name. Sago palms are not terribly hardy and can be damaged at 30 degrees F. (-1 C.). When growing Sago palms outdoors, it is important to keep this fact in mind. Sago palm outdoor care isn't particularly challenging but it is important to watch your weather report and be ready to act if you live in a zone that is under the Sago's hardiness. Those of us who live in cooler climes can still care for a Sago palm outside but will need to have the plant mobile. The plants are slow growing but can eventually reach 20 feet (6 m.), although it may take up to 100 years to achieve this height. Due to the slow growth rate, they make ideal container plants and keeping them potted allows you to move them to more favorable conditions, indoors or out. Outdoor Sago palm plants benefit from the circulation afforded by the wind and the lighting. They are also potential prey to disease and pests which are less likely to happen when they are grown in the home.

Care for Sago Palm Outside

Sago palm outdoor care isn't a lot different from indoor cultivation. The plant needs to be watered regularly while it establishes but is quite drought tolerant in the ground once its root system matures. If the plant is in ground, make sure the soil is freely draining. Boggy soil is one thing a Sago palm can't forgive. Fertilize the plant once per month starting in spring when it starts actively growing. Watch for pests like mealybugs and scale, and combat them with horticultural soap. Keep an eye on the weather and cover the root zone of the plant with organic mulch to protect the roots. If you are growing the plant in a cool or temperate zone, keep it potted so you can easily rescue the plant from a cold snap.

Sago palms (Cycas revoluta) have long, palm-like leaves, but despite the name and the leaves, they are not palms at all. They are cycads, ancient plants akin to conifers. These plants are so lush and lovely that nobody can fault you for wanting more than one. Fortunately, your sago will produce offsets, called pups, which can be split from the parent tree and planted solo. Read on to learn about separating sago palm pups to produce new plants.

Can You Split a Sago Palm?

Can you split a sago palm? The answer to that question depends on what you mean by “split.” If your sago palm stalk has split, forming two heads, don’t think about dividing them. If you split the tree trunk down the middle or even chop off one of the heads, the tree will never heal from the wounds. In time, it will die. The only way to split sago palms is by separating sago palm pups from the parent plant. This type of sago palm division can be done without injuring either the pup or the parent.

Dividing Sago Palms

Sago palm pups are small clones of the parent plant. They grow around the base of the sago. Splitting a sago palm pup is a matter of removing the pups by snapping or cutting them off where they join the parent plant. When you are splitting a sago palm pup from a mature plant, first figure out where the pup attaches to the parent plant. Wiggle the pup until it pulls off, or else cut the narrow base. After separating sago palm pups from the parent plant, clip off any leaves and roots on the pups. Place the offsets in the shade to harden off for a week. Then plant each one in a pot a couple of inches (5 cm.) bigger than it is.

Care of Sago Palm Divisions

Sago palm divisions must be watered thoroughly when the pups are first planted in soil. After that, allow the soil to dry before adding more water. When you are dividing sago palms, it takes a pup several months to produce roots. Once you notice roots growing out of the drainage holes in the pots, you’ll have to water more frequently. Don’t add fertilizer until the pup has strong roots and its first set of leaves.

Sago palms actually aren’t palms but ancient ferny plants called cycads. However, to remain a healthy green, they need the same type of fertilizer that genuine palms do. To find out more about their nutritional needs, and when to feed sago palms, continue reading.

Feeding Sago Palms

Fertilizing a sago palm plant isn’t too difficult. Your sago palms will absorb nutrients best when growing in well-drained, rich, and slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Otherwise they may develop either a magnesium deficiency, which is indicated by the yellowing of older leaves, or a manganese deficiency, in which the younger leaves yellow and shrivel. Keep in mind that a lawn fertilizer applied near sago palms may also adversely affect their nutritional balance. To prevent this problem, you either can refrain from feeding the lawn within 30 feet (9 m.) of the plants or feed that entire stretch of sod with the palm fertilizer as well.

When to Feed Sago Palms

Fertilizing a sago palm requires that you provide evenly spaced “meals” throughout its growing season, which generally runs from early April to early September. It’s a good idea, therefore, to feed your plants three times per year—once in early April, once in early June, and again in early August. Avoid feeding sago palms which have just been transplanted into the ground, as they will be too stressed to have an “appetite.” Wait two to three months, until they are well established and begin putting out new growth, before you attempt to fertilize them.

How to Fertilize Sago Palm Plants

Choose a slow-release palm fertilizer, such as 12-4-12-4, in which the first and third numbers—indicating nitrogen and potassium—are the same or nearly the same. Check to make sure that the formula also contains micronutrients such as manganese. For sandy soil and a palm which receives at least partial sun, each feeding will require 1 ½ pounds (.6 kg.) of sago palm fertilizer for every 100 square feet (30 square m.) of ground. If the soil is heavy clay instead or the plant is growing entirely in shade, use only half that amount, 3/4 pound (.3 kg.) of fertilizer per 100 square feet (30 square m.). Since organic palm fertilizers, such as 4-1-5, typically have lower nutrient numbers, you will need about twice the amount of them. That would be 3 pounds (1.2 kg.) per 100 square feet (30 square m.) for sandy soil and 1 ½ pounds (.6 kg.) per 100 square feet (30 square m.) for clay or shaded soil. If possible, apply your fertilizer just before a rainfall. Simply scatter the supplement evenly over the surface of the soil, covering the entire space under the palm’s canopy, and allow the precipitation to wash the granules into the ground. If there is no rain in the forecast, you will need to water the fertilizer into the soil yourself, using a sprinkler system or watering can.

For tropical drama in your garden, consider planting a sago palm (Cycas revoluta), a type of small tree grown widely throughout the country as both a container and a landscape plant. This plant is not a true palm, despite its common name, but a cycad, part of a prehistoric class of plants. You can expect your sago palm to produce a whorl of dark green, feather-like fronds on its trunk. If your sago palm has no new leaves, it’s time to start sago palm troubleshooting.

Sago Palm Leaf Problems

Sagos are slow growing trees, so don’t expect them to grow fronds quickly. However, if the months come and go and your sago palm isn’t growing leaves, the plant may have a problem. When it comes to sago palm leaf problems, the first thing to do is review your cultural practices. It’s entirely possible that the reason your sago palm has no new leaves is that it isn’t planted in the right location or isn’t getting the cultural care it needs. Sago palms are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 9, but not below. If you live in a chillier zone, you should grow sago palms in containers and bring them into the house when the weather gets cold. Otherwise, you may experience a variety of problems with sago palm, including failure to grow foliage.

Sago Palm Troubleshooting

If you live in the correct hardiness zones but your plant suffers from sago palm leaf problems, check to be sure it is planted in well-draining soil. These plants will not tolerate soggy or wet soil. Overwatering and poor drainage may cause root rot. This leads to serious problems with sago palms, even including death. If your sago palm isn’t growing leaves, it may be lacking nutrients. Are you fertilizing your sago palm? You should be offering the plant monthly fertilizer during the growing season to increase its vigor. If you are doing all these things correctly, yet still you find your sago palm has no new leaves, check the calendar. Sago palms stop actively growing in autumn. If you complain “my sago isn’t growing leaves” in October or November, this could be entirely natural.

Sago palms are one of the surviving wonders of a time when dinosaurs roamed the earth. These ancient plants have been found fossilized from the Mesozoic era. They are not truly palms but cycads and are noted for their hardiness and tolerance of numerous growing conditions. Their very toughness means few issues arise when growing the cycad, but sago palm wilting can signal a serious condition. Learn the causes of sago palm leaves drooping and what to do to save your plant's health.

My Sago Palm Looks Sick

Planting a sago palm in your landscape means you have a living fossil that is unique and ancient. These amazing plants resemble palms but are in a class all to themselves. Their leaves and growth habit are similar but they produce a cone rather than a flower to reproduce. The large, slow-growing trees bear feathery, needle-like leaves arching from the trunk. These may grow up to 4 feet (1 m.) long and are a main feature of the sago. Wilting sago palm plants may signal drainage issues or more likely a nutritional complaint. The stiff leaves of a sago palm truly do resemble those of a palm tree with numerous smaller leaflets comprising the entire leaf. New leaves are softer until they harden in a few weeks and while they are growing, old leaves are turning yellow and dying. This is a normal part of the growing process and nothing to be worried about. However, if there is overall sago palm wilting, steps should be taken to discover what is going on with the plant. Treating a sick sago palm can be as simple as providing certain nutrients or as complex as changing the soil and growing conditions. A soil test can provide the first clues as to why your sago palm looks sick. Ensure that water percolates freely in the planting medium and amend the soil if it is too retentive. This is also important when fertilizing the plant. Water needs to drain freely to remove any salt build-up from feeding the plant.

Reasons for Wilting Sago Palm Plants

Location – Sagos can tolerate full to partial sun locations. They are also tolerant of drought for short periods once established. That being said, when new leaves are forming, it is important not to let the soil dry out or leaves will wilt and could die. Irrigation – Water weekly in the summer but diminish watering in winter. It is also crucial not to plant the cycad in boggy soil. Sagos prefer soil on the dry side and the caudex, which is the heart of the plant, will rot and cause leaves to sicken if grown in excessively wet conditions. Rot – If you have soft, mushy spots in the caudex and the foliage is yellowing and limp, you may be losing your plant. You can try removing the leaves and using a sharp, sterile knife to remove rotten sections if the whole caudex isn't infected. Soak the plant in fungicide and then seal the open cuts with melted wax. Replant the caudex in sand or pumice and watch it carefully for up to 6 months. Treating a sick sago palm caudex for rot several times during this process may be necessary, so check the heart every week for new signs of rot. Nutrient deficiency – One of the more common nutritional deficiencies in cycads and true palms is manganese deficiency. Frizzle top is a disease caused by too little manganese. Leaves fade, yellow, and are limp and frizzy at the edges. Apply manganese sulfate as soon as you see these signs, using the manufacturer's instructions on method and amount. It may also be necessary to do a pH test on outdoor soils and amend high pH soil to increase the plant's ability to uptake the manganese. Fertilize the plant 2 to 3 times during the growing period per year. Pests – Insect pests can also take their toll on sago palms. Feeding activity can result in sago palm leaves drooping due to the energy that is being stolen from the plant by sucking sap. Most pests aren't seriously dangerous to the health of the plant but can slow growth and leaf production. Check for scale, mealybugs, and spider mites and combat with horticultural soaps and by hand rubbing off the pests on leaves. Plants in shade are more susceptible to mites and mealybugs, so try relocating the plant to a brighter location to repel these pests.

The sago palm (Cycas revoluta) is not really a palm tree. But it looks like one. This tropical looking plant hails from the Far East. It reaches 6’ (1.8 m.) in height and can spread 6-8’ (1.8 to 2.4 m.) wide. It has a straight or slightly curved narrow brown trunk that is topped with a crown of palm-like, ferny fronds.

The sago palm has a reputation of being a tough tree that can take a wide range of temperatures and soil conditions. However, providing ideal sago palm soil requirements is more important to the health of this plant than one might originally think. So what kind of soil does a sago need? Read on to learn more.

Best Soil for Sago Palms

What kind of soil does a sago need? The best type of soil for sagos is loaded with organic matter and is well-drained. Add good quality compost to the soil under your sago palm every year or even twice a year. Compost will also improve drainage if your soil is either to full of clay or too sandy.

Some experts recommend you plant the sago palm a little bit above the soil line to ensure that rain or irrigation water does not collect around the base of the trunk. Remember that the best soil for sago palms is on the dry side rather than the wet and boggy side. Don’t let your sago palms completely dry out though. Use a moisture meter and a pH meter.

Sago palm soil requirements include a pH that is nearly neutral – about 6.5 to 7.0. If your soil is either too acidic or too alkaline, apply monthly doses of the appropriate organic fertilizer to your soil. It is best to do this during the growing season.

As you can see, sago palm soil requirements are not that demanding. Sago palms are easy to grow. Just remember that the best soil for sago palms is porous and rich. Give your sago palm these conditions and it will provide you with years of landscape enjoyment.

Frizzle top is the name of the condition often seen in manganese deficient sagos. Manganese is a micronutrient found in the soil that is important to palms and sago palms. Read on to learn more about treating this problem in your sagos.

Manganese Deficiency in Palms

Sometimes the soil just doesn’t have enough manganese. Other times manganese deficient sagos are seen in soils with a pH that is too high (too alkaline) or too low (too acidic) and sandy. This makes it too difficult for the soil to retain manganese. It is also more difficult for the sago palm to absorb manganese when the pH is off. Sandy soils also have a hard time retaining nutrients. This sago palm manganese deficiency starts as yellow spots on the new upper leaves. As it continues, the leaves become progressively more yellow, then brown and frizzled looking. Left unchecked, sago palm manganese deficiency can kill the plant.

Treating Sago Palm Manganese Deficiency

There are multiple methods available for treating manganese deficiency in sagos. For the most immediate but temporary results, you can spray the leaves with 1 tsp. (5 ml.) of manganese sulfate dissolved in a gallon (4 L.) of water. Do this for three to six months. Applying manganese fertilizer for sago palm frizzle top often corrects the problem. However, if your manganese deficient sagos are afflicted with a more severe case of frizzle top, you will need to do more. Again, this is most likely due to a pH imbalance or micronutrient deficient soil. Apply manganese sulfate to the soil. You may be instructed to apply 5 pounds (2 kg.) of manganese sulfate to the soil, but that is only correct for large sized manganese deficient sagos planted in high pH (alkaline) soils. If you have a small sago palm, you may only need a few ounces of manganese sulfate. Spread the manganese sulfate under the canopy and apply irrigation water at about 1/2 inch (1 cm.) for the area. Your sago palm will probably take several months to half a year to recover. This treatment will not fix or save the impacted leaves but will correct the problem in new leaf growth. You may need to apply manganese fertilizer for sago palm annually or bi-annually. Know your soil pH. Use your pH meter. Check with your local extension or plant nursery. Treating manganese deficiency in sagos is quite easy. Don’t wait until your leaves get completely brown and frizzled. Jump on the problem early and keep your sago palm beautiful year-round.

Sago palms are excellent landscape plants in warm to temperate climates and as interior potted specimens. Sagos are relatively easy to grow but have some specific growing requirements including soil pH, nutrient levels, lighting, and moisture. If a sago palm has brown leaf tips, it could be a cultural, disease, or pest issue. Sometimes the problem is as simple as too much harsh sunlight and relocation will cure the issue. Other reasons for brown tips on sago may take some sleuthing to identify the cause and rectify the problem.

Reasons for Brown Leaves on Sago Palm

Sago palms are not true palms but members of the cycad family, an ancient plant form that has been around since before the dinosaurs. These tough little plants can withstand a lot of punishment and still reward you with their large attractive leaves and compact form. Brown leaves on sago palm are most commonly caused by sun scorch and inadequate moisture but there are some sneaky little pests and disease issues that can also be the source of the problem. Light – Sagos like well-drained soil in low light conditions. Soggy soil will result in yellowing leaves and overall diminishment of health. Excess light can burn the tips of the foliage, leaving brown, crinkled tips. Nutrient deficiency – Manganese deficiency in soil can cause palm tips to turn yellowish brown and stunt new growth. Excess salts in potted plants occur when over-fertilizing takes place. Brown tips on sago indicate the plant has too much salt in the soil. This can be corrected by giving the plant a good soil drench. These cycads do need occasional fertilizing with a slow release 8-8-8 balanced plant food. The slow release will gradually fertilize the plant, preventing salt build up. Spider mites – A magnifying glass may be necessary when a sago palm has brown leaf tips. Spider mites are a common pest of both indoor and outdoor plants of many varieties. Sago palms with fine spider web type structures among the stems and fanned leaves may exhibit browning on foliage as a result of the feeding activity of these tiny insects. Scale – Another insect pest you might spot is scale, particularly Aulacaspis scale. This pest is yellowish white, fairly flat, and can be found on any part of the plant. It is a sucking insect which will cause leaf tips to turn yellow then brown over time. Horticultural oil is a good combative measure for both insects.

Other Causes of Sago Palm Turning Brown

Potted plants do well in close confines but will require repotting and new soil every few years. Choose a well-draining potting mix that is sterile to avoid transmitting fungal organisms that can affect plant health. In ground plants benefit from organic mulch that will gradually add nutrients to the soil while conserving moisture and preventing competitive weeds and other plants. Leaves of sago palm turning brown are also a normal condition. Every season as the plant grows it produces new little fronds. These fans grow larger and the plant needs to make room for the new growth. It does this by sloughing off old fans. The lower older leaves turn brown and dry. You can simply cut these off to restore the appearance of the plant and help it as it gets bigger. Most causes of brown leaves on sago are easy to handle and a simple matter of changing lighting, watering, or nutrient delivery.

Sago palms look like palm trees, but they are not true palm trees. They are cycads, a type of plant with a unique reproductive process somewhat like that of ferns. Sago palm plants live many years and grow quite slowly. Healthy sago leaves are a deep green. 

If you notice your sago leaves turning yellow, the plant may be suffering from nutrient deficiencies. However, yellow sago palm fronds may also indicate other problems. Read on for information about what to do if you see your sago leaves turning yellow.

My Sago Palm is Turning Yellow

If you find yourself complaining that “My sago palm is turning yellow,” you may want to start fertilizing your plant. A sago palm with yellow fronds may be suffering from a nitrogen deficiency, a magnesium deficiency or a potassium deficiency. If the older sago leaves are turning yellow, the plant is likely suffering from a nitrogen deficiency.

With a potassium deficiency, the older fronds also turn yellow, including the midrib. If the leaf develops yellow bands but the central leaf remains green, your plant may have a magnesium deficiency. These yellow sago palm fronds will never recover their green color. 

However, if you begin using a general fertilizer in appropriate amounts, the new growth coming in will be green once again. You might try a fertilizer especially for palms, applied preventively, that contains three times as much nitrogen and potassium as phosphorus.

Sago Palm with Yellow Fronds – Other Causes

Sagos prefer their soil to be too dry rather than too wet. You should irrigate your plant only when the soil is quite dry. When you do give it water, give it a big drink. You want the water to get down at least two feet (61 cm.) in the soil. 

Watering a sago palm too much or too little may also result in yellow sago palm fronds. Keep track of how much and how frequently you are watering so that you can figure out which irrigation problem is more likely. 

Never allow irrigation water to get on the plant’s foliage.

The sago palm (Cycas revoluta) is a lush, tropical looking plant with large feathery leaves. It is a popular houseplant and a bold outdoor accent in warmer regions. The sago palm requires plenty of sunlight but prefers part-shade in hotter climates. Sago palm is easy to grow but it does have some diseases and pests. Read on to learn more.

Common Sago Palm Problems

Dealing with common sago palm pests and disease doesn’t have to spell the demise of your plant. If you know about the issues that affect sagos the most and how to handle them, you’ll be well on your way to correcting them. Common problems with sago palm plants include sago palm yellowing, scale, mealybugs and root rot.

Yellowing sago plants

Sago palm yellowing is common in older leaves as they get ready to drop to the ground and make way for newer leaves. If you have ruled out scale and mealybugs, yellowing in younger leaves may be caused by a lack of manganese in the soil. Applying manganese sulfate powder to the soil two to three times per year will correct the problem. It won’t save the already yellowed leaves, but subsequent growth should sprout green and healthy.

Scale and mealybugs

Sago palm pests include scale and mealybugs. Mealybugs are fuzzy white bugs that feed on stems and fruit of plants causing leaf disfiguration and fruit drop. Mealybugs reproduce and spread rapidly so you must attend to them immediately. Control ants, too, as they like the excrement called “honeydew” of mealybugs. Ants will sometimes farm mealybugs for honeydew. Apply a strong spray of water and/or insecticidal soap to wash these sago palm pests away and/or kill them. More toxic chemical controls aren’t very effective against mealybugs, as the waxy coating on these pests protect them from chemicals. If the mealybugs really get out of hand, you should dispose of the sago palm in the garbage. Other sago palm pests include various types of scales. Scales are round little insects that form a hard outer shell that is resistant to insecticides. Scales may appear brown, grey, black or white. Scales suck juices from the plants stems and leaves, depriving the plant of its nutrients and water. Asian scale, or Asian cycad scale, is a big problem in the southeast. It causes the plant to look like it has been flocked with snow. Eventually, the leaves turn brown and die. To control scale you need to apply and reapply horticultural oils and toxic systemic insecticides every few days. In between treatments, you must remove the dead insects, as they won’t detach on their own. They may be harboring living scales beneath them. You can do this with a scrub brush or high pressure hose. If the scale really gets out of control, it is best to remove the plant so the scale doesn’t spread into other plants.

Root rot

Sago palm diseases include Phytophthora fungi. It invades the roots and root crowns of the plant causing root rot. Root rot results in leaf wilt, discoloration, and leaf drop. One way to identify the Phytophthora disease is to look for a dark vertical stain or sore on the trunk possibly with black or red-black oozing sap. This disease will retard plant growth, cause die-back or even kill the plant. Phytophthora loves compacted, poor draining, overwatered soil. Make sure you plant your sago palm in good draining soil and do not overwater it.

The palm weevil is a serious pest of palms. Native to southeast Asia, it is the pest that causes more damage to palms than any other. The insect pest has spread to most continents, including Africa, Asia, Europe, Oceania, and even North America. Weevils on sago palms cause extensive damage and many gardeners are asking how to control palm weevils. Read on for information about palm weevil damage and sago palm weevil control.

Palm Weevil Damage

Weevils on sago palms can kill the plants. The eggs don’t damage the plants, nor do the weevil adults. It is when the weevils are in the larva stage that palm weevil damage occurs. The life cycle of the palm weevil begins when the adult female weevils lay eggs on or near the sago palm trees. The larva hatches out of the eggs in a few days and bore into the living tissues of the tree. The weevils stay in the larval stage for up to five months, digging holes in the trees. The damage from weevils on sago palms can be so severe that the trees die within six months. When the larva stops eating the living wood of the tree, it builds a cocoon out of palm fibers. The cocoons of weevils on sago palms are usually located inside the trunk of a leaf stalk. The adult emerges from the cocoon after about 20 days and sets to mating and laying more eggs.

Sago Palm Weevil Control

Anyone with a sago palm needs to know how to control palm weevils. Palm weevil treatment involves a combination of control methods including removal of infected wood, applying insecticides, and trapping the adults. When you want to remove weevils on sago palms, the first thing to do is to remove the dead parts of the tree. Then cut out the plant parts infested by larva with a sharp cutting tool. If the entire trunk is affected, you cannot save the tree. Your best bet to prevent the weevils from spreading to other trees is to remove the infested plant, roots and all, and burn it. If the tree can be saved, the second step in sago palm weevil control is to spray the palm with insecticide. You can inject systematic insecticides directly into palm trunks as well. Applying systematic insecticides to the soil helps to eliminate the weevils in the egg stage. When you use insecticide as a palm weevil treatment, you must repeat the application two or three times every year. Another effective method, often used along with insecticide, is trapping the adult weevils. To use this sago palm weevil control method, you use aggregation pheromones that attract the females. Place these pheromones in a container together with insecticide to kill the weevils.

Are you wondering how to treat sago palm problems showing up on your tree? Sago palms aren't actually palm trees, but cycads – ancient cousins of pines and other conifers. These slow-growing tropical trees are relatively disease-resistant, but they are susceptible to certain sago palm tree diseases. If your tree isn't looking its best, read on to learn the basics of identifying and treating sago palm diseases.

Getting Rid of Sago Palm Diseases

Here are some common diseases of sago palm and tips on treating them: Cycad scale – This sago palm problem isn't a disease, but the powdery white substance on the leaves may lead you to believe your palm has a fungal disease. Scale is actually a tiny white pest that can destroy a sago palm very quickly. If you determine your tree is affected by scale, prune heavily infested fronds and dispose of them carefully. Some experts advise spraying the tree with horticultural oil or a combination of malathion and horticultural oil once a week until the pests are gone. Others prefer to use a systemic insect control. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office to determine the best remedy for your tree. Fungal leaf spot – If you notice brown lesions, or if leaf edges turn yellow, tan or reddish brown, your tree may be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. The first step is to remove and destroy affected growth. Be sure to keep the area under the tree clean and free of plant debris. Your Cooperative Extension agent can tell you if you need to treat your sago palm with a fungicide. Bud rot – This soil-borne fungus usually strikes in warm, damp weather. It is most evident on new leaves, which may turn yellow or brown before they unfurl. Fungicides may be effective if you catch the disease in its early stages. Sooty mold – This fungal disease is easy to spot by the powdery, black substance on the leaves. The fungus is often attracted by sweet, sticky honeydew left behind by sap-sucking insects – usually aphids. Treat the aphids with regular application of an insecticidal soap spray. Once the aphids are eradicated, the sooty mold will probably disappear. Manganese deficiency – If new fronds are yellow or display yellow splotches, the tree may be lacking manganese. This often occurs when the tree is planted in manganese-poor soil, which is common in tropical climates. This deficiency is easily treated by applying manganese sulfate (not magnesium sulfate, which is completely different).

Sturdy, long-lived, and low maintenance, sago palms are excellent houseplants. They are relatively slow growing and may only need repotting every one or two years. When the time comes, however, it’s important to move your sago palm to a new container to ensure its healthy growth. Keep reading to learn how to repot a sago palm plant.

When to Repot a Sago Palm

How do you know when to repot a sago palm? Often, the plant itself will tell you. Sago palms’ roots are surprisingly large for the size of their foliage. Even if your palm looks modest above ground, you may notice roots escaping through drainage holes, water taking a long time to drain, or even the sides of your container bulging out. This means it’s time to repot! In warm areas, you can do this any time during the growing season. In areas with short summers, late winter or early spring is optimal. If your palm is really bursting out of its container, however, repotting it right away is more important than waiting for the right time of year.

Repotting Sago Palm Trees

When choosing a new container for sago palm transplanting, go for depth rather than width so your roots have more space to grow down. Look for a container that’s 3 inches (8 cm.) wider and/or deeper than your current one. An ideal sago palm potting mix drains very quickly. Mix your regular potting soil with plenty of grit such as pumice, sand, or peat moss. Once your potting mix is prepared, it’s time to transplant. Due to their large, tight, root balls and sturdy trunks, repotting sago palm trees is easy. Turn your current container on its side and grip the trunk firmly in one hand. With the other hand, pull on the container. It should come away easily, but if it doesn’t, try squeezing and shaking it gently. Be careful not to bend the trunk of the palm though, as this can break the heart of the palm in the center of the trunk. Once the plant is free, hold it in the new container and pile sago palm potting mix under and around it so that the soil reaches the same level on the plant as before. Water liberally, then place it in a sunny spot.

Sago palms only bloom once every three to four years with either male or female flowers. The flowers are actually more of a cone since sagos aren't really palms but are cycads, the original cone forming plants. Some gardeners find them unattractive. So can you remove a sago plant flower without damaging the plant? Read on for the answer. As stated previously, sago palms are either male or female. Females form a flat, slightly rounded cone with rich, golden tones. The male cone resembles a pine cone and is more erect, growing up to 24 inches (61 cm.) tall. If the two are nearby, the male pollen fertilizes the female sago palm flower head and around December bright red seeds will form on her. These will naturally disperse through birds and wind, and the “flower” parts will disintegrate.

Sago Palm Flower Removal

The majestic fronds of the palm add a tropical touch while the slow growth of sagos makes them easy to manage. The cones are not particularly ugly but don't have the same panache as a traditional flower. Flower removal is not recommended if you want to harvest the seed. For this purpose, wait until the seeds turn deep red and then they will easily pop out of the spent cone. The remaining material will slough away, leaving a scar in the center that new leaf growth will soon cover. Cutting off sago flowers is really only necessary if you need to fertilize plants that are some distance away.

Can You Remove a Sago Plant Flower?

If the flower is truly bothering you or if you do not want the plant to reproduce for some reason, sago palm flower removal is your best option. Use a very sharp knife to cut out the cone at its base. However, consider that a sago plant must be 15 to 20 years old or older to bloom, so this is a pretty rare and interesting event. You may also need to cut out a male flower to fertilize a female that is not nearby. Male cones stay viable for a few days when stored in a plastic bag. After removal, simply shake the male over the opened female flower. You can pollinate several females by cutting off sago flowers from a male. He may only produce one cone but often there are multiples. Do not remove the female after pollination, as she cannot make seed without nutrients and moisture from the plant. Leave the female sago palm flower head until she is ripe. You can harvest the entire flower with a knife or just pull out the walnut sized seeds. Soak the seed in a bucket for several days, changing the water daily. Discard any seed that floats, as it is not viable. Pull off the orange seed coating using gloves to prevent staining your hands. Allow the seeds to dry for a few days and store in a cool location in airtight containers. At planting, soak the seeds again to enhance germination.

Sago palms belong to the oldest plant family still on earth, the cycads. They are not truly palms but cone forming flora which have been around since before the dinosaurs. The plants are not winter hardy and rarely survive the season in zones below USDA plant hardiness zone 8. Winterizing sago palms in lower zones is essential if you don't want the plant to die. There are a few methods on how to overwinter a sago plant, and it is essential to take steps before chilly temperatures arrive. As long as you offer sago palm winter protection, you can be sure the slow growing cycad will be around for years of enjoyment.

Sago Palm Winter Care

Sago palms are found in warm growing conditions. The long feathery leaves are palm-like and divided into sections. The overall effect is of large broad leaves heavily textured and an exotic sculpted form. Cycads are not tolerant of freezing conditions, but sagos are the hardiest of all the varieties. They can withstand brief periods of temperatures as low as 15 degrees F. (-9 C.), but are killed at 23 F. (-5 C.) or below. This means you need to provide sago palm winter protection. The amount of care you need to take depends upon the length of the cold snap and the zone in which you live.

Winterizing Sago Palms Outside

Sago care outside in winter where temperatures do not freeze is minimal. Keep the plant moderately moist but do not give it as much moisture as you do in summer. This is because the plant is semi-dormant and not actively growing. Even in warmer areas, a light layer of mulch around the base of the palm offers extra sago palm winter protection for the roots and conserves moisture while preventing competitive weeds. If your palm is located where light freezes occasionally occur, sago care in winter should start with a 3-inch (7.5 cm.) layer of mulch around the root zone. Prune off dead leaves and stems as they occur and feed the plant in late winter to early spring to get the growth season off to a good start. Covering the plant with a burlap bag or lightweight blanket is a good way of providing sago palm winter protection from short term freezes. Watch the weather report and cover the plant before you go to bed. Uncover when frost has melted in the morning. Should you miss a night and your cycad gets zapped by the cold, it may kill the leaves. Simply cut off the dead foliage, fertilize in spring and it will probably come back with new leaves.

How to Overwinter a Sago Plant Indoors

Plant grown in areas with regular freezes should be potted in containers. Sago palm winter care for these cycads includes placing the container in a cool but well lit room. Provide water only every two to three weeks or when the soil has dried out. Don't fertilize during this period but do give it cycad food in spring as new growth begins to start.

Sago palms are one of the oldest types of plant life still alive. The plants belong to the family of Cycads, which aren't really palms, but the leaves are reminiscent of palm fronds. These ancient plants are common in the landscape and lend a tropical air to gardens, even in temperate zones. Usually the plant has one main stem separating out to several slender stems topped with wide sets of leaves. Occasionally, however, you will find sago with multiple heads, which is a natural aberration that creates a unique silhouette.

What Causes a Sago with Multiple Heads?

Sago palms grow from a center crown. As they age, the dropping of old stems and the addition of new creates a scarred, rough trunk. The trunk is usually a single trunk, but occasionally a double headed sago palm will occur. This can happen due to environmental changes, stress on the plant, or just because nature deemed it time for a surprise! These multi-headed sagos are not something to dislike but rather a cause for celebration. The abnormality adds intrigue and interest to a standard form. Your friends will be jealous.

Multi-Headed Sagos or Sago Pups

These curious Cycads also form pups, or offsets, which rise from around the main trunk and look like mini versions of the parent. These offsets can give the appearance of a sago with multiple heads but provide an easy way to propagate the plant. These little sago babies can be cleaved (or severed) from the parent plant to start a new plant. Most pups detach easily, but you may have to excavate to remove the roots of older starts. Removal should be done when the sago is dormant in winter. Take off the leaves and set the pups in a dry place so the cut area can harden off. Place the callused end in a half and half mix of peat moss and sand to allow them to get rooted and established.

Should You Prune Sago Heads?

It is not a good idea to prune multi-headed sagos. Cutting into the flesh could kill them, as Cycads do not heal over to prevent insects, bacteria, or fungal spores from entering. Trees will seal the wounds made by pruning, but sagos do not have that ability. The only thing you should prune off is any dead stems, but it is not even necessary as the plant is self cleaning. Pruning should wait until all danger of frost has passed. If you truly hate your double-headed sago, don't cut it. Dig it up and give it to someone who will appreciate the fanciful appearance. If you choose to prune sago heads off the plant, be aware you could cause long term injury or even death to your graceful Cycad.

Sago palms (Cycas revoluta) are members of the ancient Cycadaceae family that dominated the landscape over 150 million years ago. The plant is also called Japanese sago because it is native to the subtropical, southern islands of Japan. It isn't a true palm, but sago palm fronds resemble those of palm trees, and caring for a sago palm is similar to caring for a true palm. Sago palm leaf tips curling is a sign of stress that can be caused by several factors.

Why are My Sago Leaves Curling?

Sago palms get their species name from the fact that the leaflets are revolute, or curled under, on the new fronds. After the main stem of the sago palm fronds mature enough to assume their natural shape, the leaflets gradually relax and uncurl. Unnatural leaf curl on sagos, particularly when it is accompanied by discoloration or spots, however, indicates a problem. Abnormal leaf curl may be the result of insufficient water, fungal disease, or a nutrient deficiency. Sago palms need a steady supply of water in summer when they are actively growing. They also need micronutrients such as magnesium, which isn't always present in general purpose fertilizer.

How to Fix Curling Fronds

So how to fix curling fronds on sagos that are not the norm? First, you should water sago palms deeply, completely saturating the root zone in summer. The easiest way to do this is to use drip irrigation, but you can also water slowly with a sprinkler or hose. Apply water as long as the soil can absorb it and the water doesn't run off. If it begins to run off before the root zone is saturated, stop for about 20 minutes and then resume watering. A layer of mulch will help prevent evaporation and keep the moisture level steady. It will also reduce the number of weeds, which compete with the sago palm for moisture and nutrients. When sago palms are infected with fungal diseases, leaf tip curl is accompanied by discoloration or spots on the leaves. If the leaves have white or tan spots, try scraping them off with your fingernail. If you can remove the spots without removing part of the leaflet, they are probably mealybugs or scale insects. Neem oil is a good treatment for these pests. Other discolorations and spots that appear water-soaked are probably fungal disease. Use a fungicide labeled for use on sago palms according to the package instructions. Again, neem oil (which doubles as a fungicide) will help. Sago palms have special nutrient requirements. Use a palm fertilizer in spring, summer, and fall according to the package instructions. Pull back the mulch and apply the fertilizer to the area under the canopy. Water lightly and then replace the mulch.

Sago palms are actually not palm trees but an ancient plant form called a Cycad. These plants have been around since the time of the dinosaurs and are hardy, tenacious specimens, but even the mighty may be laid low by tiny little pests. In this case, if a sago palm has white dots, you need to be ready for battle. White spots on sago palms are likely an introduced form of scale insect, which has become almost an epidemic in warm regions of the country where sagos naturally grow. To prevent the death of the cycad, you need to know how to get rid of white scale on sagos.

White Spots on Sago Palms

Cycad aulacaspis is only tempted by plants in the cycad family. Once you see it, you have an infestation that is very difficult to get rid of since it is likely on neighboring sagos and can be blown onto plants with each gust of wind. The appearance of white fuzzy stems, leaves, and trunks signals a huge problem. Scale is a tiny sucking insect and, in high populations, the bugs can sap the plant of much of its life-giving fluid and kill it. The insects have a protective waxy armor, which is white to yellow. They are so tiny that finding the problem before the plant is overrun is almost impossible. Once the population has bloomed, all parts of your plant can be infected and the pest's presence is obvious.

How to Get Rid of White Scale on Sagos

Treating sago palm scale is crucial to rescuing the plant's health, but it's not an easy process. This is because the insects can just blow back onto revived plants and their ability to hide in cracks, and even the roots, prevents some controls from working completely. First prune off any infested fronds. Then apply paraffin based horticultural oil to all parts of the plant. Mix 3 tablespoons (44 ml.) of oil with water and spray the entire palm. Don't forget under the leaves and the trunk. Apply two to three times with five days between each application. Neem oil can also be used. For better control, use a systemic insecticide. These work best as soil drenches applied at the rate recommended by the manufacturer. The benefit of these is that the roots take up the chemical and the insects suck it out and die. It also can get the persistent scale on roots. There is a beetle and wasp that are being studied for treating sago palm scale. As natural predators, they would be effective in reducing populations in a non-toxic manner. Unfortunately, they are not commercially available. Persistence is usually the rule when treating sago palm scale. Don't forget to spray consistently or the pests will make a grand return.

Avoiding Misdiagnosis When Sago Has White Dots

When a sago palm has white dots, it might just be a natural occurrence. It might be mistaken for scale insects but is not. This is instead called scurf on sago palms. It is a normal condition, and the scurf will eventually fall off as the leaf matures. The appearance is white and forms in raised, elongated bumps that line up along the rachis and the leaflets. There doesn't seem to be any purpose to scurf on sago palms, but it doesn't damage the plant and does not require treatment.

If you have a male sago palm flower, it will produce a long, golden, cone-like structure, somewhat reminiscent of a large pinecone. On rare occasions, males may produce multiple cones. If no female is nearby or you don't plan on propagating additional sago plants, you can simply remove this structure from the plant without causing it any harm. For those wishing to pollinate plants, you'll have to wait for the scales to open (usually in late spring) to reveal the sweet-smelling pollen inside. Then, you can either wait for natural pollination through wind and bees to take place or remove the cone and gently shake it over the receptive female plant.

While sago palms can enhance nearly any landscape by creating a tropical effect, unsightly yellow-brown foliage or an over-abundance of heads (from pups) might leave one to wonder if you should prune sago palm. Keep reading to learn more about how to prune a sago palm.

Sago Palm Care & Pruning Sago Palms

Oftentimes, unsightly yellow fronds are a signal of a nutrient deficiency, which can usually be remedied with a boost of fertilizer, such as palm food or even citrus fertilizer. Poor, sickly looking plants can also be rejuvenated with manganese sulfate (amounts vary with plant size, from an ounce (28 gr.) for small sagos on up to 5 lbs (2 kg.) for larger ones) watered into the soil. Deficiencies in manganese are common in these plants. Note: do not confuse this with magnesium sulfate, which is the main ingredient found in Epsom salts and commonly used for treating magnesium deficiencies. To reduce the chance of nutrient deficiencies, sago palm should be fertilized at least every six weeks during the growing season. Although some people feel the need to prune sago palm by removing these yellowing fronds, this is not recommended, especially on the lower leaves of deficient palms. This can actually cause the problem to worsen, moving up to the next tier of leaves. Even as yellow leaves are dying, they are still absorbing nutrients which, if removed, could stunt plant growth or leave it susceptible to infections. Therefore, it's best only to try trimming sago palm fronds and growth that are dead, which will be brown. However, trimming sago palm annually can be done for aesthetic purposes, but only if done carefully.

How to Prune a Sago Palm

Pruning sago palms should never be excessive. Only remove completely dead, badly damaged, or diseased foliage. If desired, the fruit and flower stalks can be pruned as well. In addition to decreasing growth, cutting the green fronds can weaken the plant, making it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Cut the oldest and lowest leaves as close to the trunk as possible. In some cases, all but the very top fronds are removed—but this would be extreme. You should also refrain from trimming sago palm leaves that are roughly between a ten and two o'clock position.

Prune Sago Palm Pups

Mature sago palms develop offsets, or pups, at the base or along the sides of their trunk. These can be removed in early spring or late fall. Gently dig and lift them from the base or pop them from the trunk with a hand trowel or knife. If you'd like to create additional plants using these pups, simply remove all the foliage and lay them out to dry for a week or so. Then you can replant them in well-drained, sandy soil. Place half of the rootball just below the soil surface. Water thoroughly and keep the new pups in a shady area outside or a bright location indoors until rooting takes place -- usually within a few months. Allow them to dry out some between watering and once roots appear, begin feeding them with a low dose of fertilizer.

Transplanting Sago Palm Pups

Do not repot or transplant new pups in the garden until they have formed extensive root systems. Sago palms do not like to be disturbed, so any transplanting needs to be done with great care. Newly planted sagos should only be moved during early spring, while mature palms can be transplanted during early spring or late fall.

The sago palm (Cycas revoluta) is a popular houseplant known for its feathery foliage and ease of care. In fact, this is a great plant for beginners and makes an interesting addition to nearly any room. It can even be grown outdoors. While the name might imply that it is a palm, this plant is actually considered a cycad, one of the oldest groups of plants dating back to prehistoric times -- hence the plant's hardiness.

How to Care for Sago Palms

Sago palms are easy to care for but do require special needs, such as bright light, although they will tolerate low-light conditions. What they will not tolerate, however, is too much moisture. Sago palms prefer to be situated in well-drained soil, and like other cycad plants, they do not respond well to overwatering. In fact, too much water can quickly lead to root rot and eventual death. 

Therefore, it's best to allow the plant to dry out some between waterings. Sago palm plants also require regular fertilizing monthly to ensure vigorous health and encourage sago palm blooms. However, these plants might take 15 years before they bloom in containers (if at all), at which time the sago palm blooms only about every third year (on average). This often takes place in late spring.

Problems with Sago Palms

While sago palms, for the most part, are problem free plants, you may on occasion encounter problems with sago palms. One of the most common complaints is sago palm yellowing. However, as is the case with most cycads, this is a normal reaction as the plant conserves nutrients -- with older leaves turning yellow and then brown.

On the other hand, if sago palm yellowing occurs with new growth, this could signal a nutrient deficiency. Insects can be another factor, as these plants are well known for harboring pests like scale bugs. Newly planted sago palms that suffer from yellowing may be the result of improper planting or poor drainage.

How to Treat Sick Sago Palms

Once you have determined the cause of sago palm yellowing, you'll need to know how to treat sick sago palms effectively. For nutritional deficiencies, try feeding sago palms houseplant fertilizer regularly, about once a month. Regular balanced fertilizer is important for healthy maintenance of sago palms. 

If scale infestations are a problem, try using the tips found in the following article: How to Control Plant Scale. You could also try handpicking them off or placing them outdoors to allow their natural predators to help eliminate the problem. 

When problems with sago palms are due to improper planting or poor drainage, you'll need to repot the planting as soon as possible in suitable soil, not too deep, and with adequate drainage available.

DISCLAIMER: It should be noted that all parts of this plant are considered toxic to both humans and pets if ingested, so caution should be taken if you are growing sago palms around small children and pets (specifically cats and dogs).