Snake plants have a reputation for surviving neglect, and it’s well-earned. They tolerate low light, irregular watering, and general inattention better than almost any other houseplant. May is the exception, though – as temperatures climb and daylight extends, snake plants shift out of the slow winter mode they’ve been in for months. That shift is brief, and a few well-timed tasks catch it at the right moment.

Good snake plant care through May makes a noticeable difference going into summer. These tasks cover what actually matters this month.

1. Resume a Regular Watering Schedule

Through winter, snake plants drink very little water – watering too frequently when growth is minimal is one of the faster ways to rot the roots. May changes that. Active growth is resuming, the soil dries out more quickly as temperatures rise, and the plant can actually use what you give it. Every two to three weeks is about right for most homes, though the soil itself is the real guide.

Push a finger two inches (5cm) into the mix – if it’s still damp, wait. Snake plants rot from overwatering far more often than they suffer from drought, and that doesn’t change in May. When the soil is dry, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then step back and don’t touch it again until the mix dries out. A deep soak followed by a genuine dry period is what they want, not small amounts on a schedule. If in doubt, a more reliable tool like this 4-in-1 moisture meter from Amazon can make things simpler.

2. Repot... If Necessary

May is a good time to repot a snake plant if it’s due – active growth means it settles into new soil faster than a winter repot would. Root tips visible at the surface, anything pushing out of the drainage holes, a pot that rocks or tips when touched – any of those is a signal. Plants that have been sitting in the same container for three years or more are also due for a look, even if nothing is obviously telling you something’s wrong.

Go up only one pot size – snake plants do better in slightly snug containers and too much extra soil around the roots holds moisture longer than they like. A well-draining mix is important here; a cacti and succulent mix, or regular potting mix with added perlite, gives the drainage these plants need. Perlite from Amazon mixed into standard potting soil at roughly one part perlite to three parts mix is a reliable formula that improves drainage without sacrificing too much moisture retention for a repot.

3. Give It a Light Feed

Snake plant fertilizer needs are few – one light application of balanced liquid fertilizer in May takes advantage of the growth window without pushing the soft, weak growth that overfeeding can produce. Salt buildup, brown leaf tips, and stressed roots are the typical results of too much fertilizer, not too little. Once or twice through the growing season is enough for most plants.

Half the recommended strength is the right dilution – full strength stresses the roots more than it helps. The soil should already be slightly moist when you apply it; fertilizer going into dry soil is more likely to burn. If the plant was recently repotted, skip this entirely – fresh mix has enough in it to carry the plant through the first season without any help.

4. Move It to Brighter Light

Snake plants tolerate low light, but they’re not indifferent to it – growth is slower in a dim corner and the leaves can lose some of their crispness over time. May is a natural point to reconsider where the plant is sitting. Moving it closer to a window, or outside to a sheltered shaded spot once the weather is reliable, tends to produce noticeably more upright, vigorous growth through the rest of summer.

Sudden, direct midday sun scorches the leaves, indoors or out, so bright indirect light is the target. East-facing windows work well; north-facing is fine if it’s a big window. Outside, wait until night temperatures are reliably above 50F (10C) and start with a shaded spot rather than anywhere that gets full afternoon exposure. Acclimate gradually over a couple of weeks – a few hours of gentle morning light first, more as the plant adjusts.

5. Take Cuttings or Divide

May is a good window for propagating snake plants – cuttings root and divisions establish faster now than they would in cooler months. Division is the more reliable method and keeps any variegation intact: unpot the plant, separate the rhizomes by pulling or cutting them apart, pot each section into fresh mix. A couple of healthy leaves and some root attached is enough for each piece to get going, and they can reach full size by the end of summer.

Leaf cuttings work too, though they take longer and any variegated patterning won’t carry through to the new plant – divisions are the way to go if keeping the look matters.

For cuttings, slice a healthy leaf into three to four inch (7–10cm) sections, let the cut ends callous for a day, then push them into moist propagation mix the same way up they grew. Upside-down cuttings won’t root. Roots form in roughly four to six weeks in May’s warmth. A small propagation tray from Amazon keeps humidity around the cuttings without waterlogging them.

Dracaena trifasciata is native to rocky, inhospitable regions of Africa, which tells you right away that snake plant soil should echo those lean, fast-draining conditions. You don’t need to fill your pot with stones, but the mix should feel open, airy, and just a little gritty to the touch. That structure matters – it determines how quickly water moves through the pot and how much moisture lingers around the roots.

Snake plants are succulents, adapted to endure long stretches without rain, so they prefer a soil that dries out rather than one that stays damp. When moisture hangs around too long, their shallow roots are vulnerable to fungal diseases that lead to rot – often the quickest way to lose an otherwise indestructible plant.

If you’re refreshing your plant’s setup, knowing how to repot a snake plant can help you match the soil and container to its needs, while good snake plant care always begins with a mix that drains freely and doesn’t cling to excess water.

Soil Mix for Snake Plants

A standard houseplant potting mix is a perfectly good starting point, but on its own, it’s often too dense for snake plant soil. To get the balance right, you’ll want to introduce materials that open up the texture and improve drainage. Some gardeners like to mix in fine horticultural charcoal, like this Olivette product on Amazon, which helps create space in the soil and keeps it fresh, while others reach for coarse sand, coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite. Each of these ingredients works slightly differently, but they all encourage excess water to move through the pot rather than linger around the roots.

Most commercial potting soils already contain perlite and peat moss, but peat in particular holds onto moisture – useful for thirstier plants, less so here. If there’s too much of it in the mix, the soil can stay damp far longer than a snake plant would ever experience in its native habitat. The goal is a blend that feels light in the hand and drains quickly after watering, with plenty of tiny air pockets throughout. Starting with a bagged mix is absolutely fine, just be sure to amend it with a coarser ingredient or two so water can pass through freely and roots can breathe.

How Soil Type Affects Snake Plant Water Needs

Soil type plays a decisive role in how water behaves around your plant’s roots – how much is held, how quickly it drains, and how much air remains in the mix. Each ingredient brings its own qualities: some hold onto moisture, while others create vital pockets of space that let excess water slip away. Those air gaps are just as important as the water itself, helping prevent the stagnant conditions where fungal snake plant problems take hold.

Loose, sandy blends tend to drain rapidly, while mixes high in peat hold moisture for much longer. Clay soils, with their fine particles, are especially prone to becoming waterlogged, and even loam – often considered the gardener’s gold standard – is still too dense for snake plant soil because it lacks the wide channels that allow water to move freely. Snake plants do need watering, of course, but in their world, it arrives, passes through quickly, and leaves only a trace behind for the roots to absorb.

What you’re aiming for is a mix built around larger, coarser particles – one that sheds excess moisture within minutes rather than hours, while still offering just enough hydration to sustain the plant between waterings.

Best Ready-Made Soil for Snake Plants

There are several ready-made mixes that can support healthy growth, though unless buying a specialist snake plant soil mix, most benefit from a small tweak to better suit the plant's needs. Succulent and cactus blends are usually the closest match, typically combining potting mix with coarse materials like sand, perlite, or pumice. These gritty additions are what make the difference, helping water drain quickly and preventing the roots from sitting in damp conditions.

Cactus mixes, in particular, tend to lean heavily on inorganic ingredients, with just a modest amount of organic matter such as potting mix, pine bark, or even a little clay. That balance favors drainage over moisture retention – exactly what snake plants prefer. Orchid mix can also be useful when blended with standard potting soil and extra perlite, creating a chunkier, more open structure that holds a touch of moisture while still allowing excess water to pass through with ease.

Every commercial blend will vary slightly in its ratios, but the aim is always the same: a light, fast-draining medium that mimics the plant’s natural environment. With the right base, and perhaps a small adjustment, most bagged mixes can be turned into an ideal home for a snake plant.

Specialist Snake Plant Potting Soils

Make Your Own Snake Plant Potting Soil

Mixing your own snake plant soil is straightforward and gives you complete control over drainage and texture. A wheelbarrow, a large bucket, or even a tarp will do the job. For a reliable blend, combine 1 part potting soil, ½ part compost or worm castings, 2 parts coarse sand, and ½ part perlite or pumice. This creates a loose, free-draining mix with larger particles for airflow and just enough organic matter to provide gentle nutrients.

If you prefer to keep things simple, try ⅔ potting soil with ⅓ clay pebbles, pumice, or perlite, or start with a cactus or succulent mix and cut it with about 50 percent standard potting soil. However you approach it, the finished mix should look and feel open – you should be able to see and distinguish the different components easily. Uniform, fine-textured soils tend to compact, slowing drainage and increasing the risk of rot.

Overwatering is often less about how frequently you water and more about the soil holding onto that moisture for too long. With a well-made mix, water should pass through quickly, leaving just a hint of moisture behind. Once you’ve got the balance right, simply water when the soil feels dry, and your snake plant will be far more resilient.

DIY Snake Plant Soil Buys

How often do you water a snake plant? These easy to grow succulents are adapted to periods of drought, but they'll reward you with the best growth when they're regularly watered.

That being said, they do require different levels of moisture at different times of the year, so it's not as simple as consistent watering. And snake plants are famously intolerant of standing water, so overwatering can be a real issue.

So, how often to water a snake plant? The answer lies in the time of year, location of the plant, soil type, container, and other factors. Let's take a closer look at this essential part of snake plant care.

When to Water a Snake Plant

Like most commonly grown houseplants, snake plants actively grow during the warmer months of the year when the days are longer. By the time the daytime hours of light are diminishing in September (March in the Southern Hemisphere), the plant begins to go dormant, and will stay dormant until the light levels increase. During its rest or dormant period, a snake plant needs less than half the water it required during its growing phase.

During the growing season, you should water a snake plant when the top couple inches (5 cm or so) feel dry to the touch. During the winter, once per month on average is plenty of water for a snake plant.

How Often Do You Water a Snake Plant?

The exact number of days or weeks between watering any plant will be different due to the time of year and the conditions in which it is kept. Heating and cooling vents both dry plants out faster. The closer your snake plant is to one of these vents, the more frequently it'll need to be watered. The type of pot also matters – unglazed containers tend to dry out sooner because moisture is able to evaporate out of them faster.

The amount and type of soil is important. A snake plant in standard potting soil will remain moist longer than one in gritty cactus soil. A large, mature snake plant that's pot bound in a small pot will also need more frequent watering than a smaller plant in a large container.

And finally, a snake plant in a low light area will require less water than one in bright light.

While these are all real factors, they're not hugely influential, and shouldn't be given too much weight. When in doubt, you should always check by feel.

How Do You Know It's Time to Water a Snake Plant?

There are a few easy visual clues that'll tell you your snake plant needs water. The leaves may be puckered, or the soil might be lighter in color and pulling away from the side of the container.

Another method is to lift the pot – if it's noticeably light, it could probably use some moisture. Another way to tell if you need to water a snake plant is by rapping on the container. If it makes a hollow sound, it's low on water.

Touch is the most accurate gauge. Insert a finger to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry all the way down, it's time to water your snake plant.

How to Water a Snake Plant

Snake plants can be sensitive to tap water, especially if your municipal supply adds chlorine. Allow the water to sit out overnight to offgas and come to room temperature before adding it to the container. You might also use rainwater or distilled water.

Avoid getting water on the leaves – this could lead to fungal disease.

Once per month in the growing season, soak the plant until water runs from the drainage holes freely. This will remove any excess salts that may build up from fertilizing.

Snake plants, with their broad, attractive leaves, tend to get dusty. The dust will impede transpiration and photosynthesis. Put the plant in the shower to clean the leaves and soak the soil to remove excess salts.

Snake plants are succulents with very shallow root systems and are especially susceptible to root rot with overwatering. This means they should never be allowed to sit in a saucer with water. After watering, wait 15 minutes and tip out any water that has collected in the dish.

Snake Plant Watering Essentials

Snake plants are a favorite among many first-time plant parents because they are so easy to grow. You can pretty much ignore them for most of the year, just give them the occasional drink, and they’re fine. But spring is when snake plants enter the active growing season again, so giving them the right care during this time of year is key.

Whether you’re a brand new indoor gardener or you’ve been growing snake plants for decades, there are certain care tasks you need to check off your list this month to ensure your plants thrive for the rest of the year.

Here’s what you need to do to your snake plants in March for lush and healthy growth that lasts all year long.

1. Do Some Spring Cleaning

When dust builds up on leaves over the winter, it can cut down on the amount of light your snake plant gets for the necessary process of photosynthesis. That’s why cleaning houseplant leaves in spring is a great way to give your plant a boost of energy.

Use a damp microfiber cloth or plant cleaning gloves, like these adorable pastel pairs from Amazon, to give your snake plant a thorough wipe-down. You can follow up with a quick spritz of neem oil, which you can also get on Amazon, to give your plants an extra shine.

A dose of neem oil also doubles as prevention and treatment for many common snake plant pests and diseases. If your plants are showing signs of aphids, spider mites, or fungal disease, then a little neem oil can go a long way to getting them healthy for the growing season ahead.

2. Let Plants Soak in the Sun

Snake plants are one of the best houseplants for low-light. But even these shade-lovers can use a boost of sunshine when spring arrives. Move your snake plants to a spot near a window that has bright, indirect light.

If you don’t have much natural light in your home, supplement your snake plants’ light needs with an inexpensive grow light. This LED clip light from Amazon is a great option that’s easy to set up almost anywhere. Just clip it onto a tabletop.

3. Give Them a Big Drink

Snake plants are beloved for their ability to thrive on neglect, including when you forget to water them. But in March, as the growing season begins again, it’s good to give your snake plants a nice, big drink. This will help fuel them for all the growth they have ahead of them.

Bottom watering plants is a fantastic way to give them a little extra love this month. Fill a large dish or shallow bowl with water, then plop your potted snake plant into the water for about 20 minutes or until the soil is evenly moist.

This method of watering snake plants ensures that all their roots are getting the moisture they need, which is sometimes difficult for these plants because they prefer to be rootbound and a bit dry. But when soil is too dry and you water from above, the water just pours through the gaps in the soil without soaking in. Bottom watering prevents this.

4. Repot Your Plants (Maybe)

As I mentioned above, snake plants like to be rootbound. The snugger the pot, the better generally. But eventually it will be time to repot snake plants at some point.

One sure sign it’s time for transplanting is if your snake plant’s roots break your pot. These hard-to-kill houseplants are tough and have strong roots that can crack clay and plastic pots, if they are extremely rootbound.

If you want to avoid hurting your pots and having to buy new ones, then now is a good time to move your snake plants into bigger containers. Only move up one pot size, an inch (2.5 cm) larger diameter than the old pot is just fine. Your snake plants will appreciate being snug in their new container.

When you repot, be sure to fill the new container with a well-draining potting mix. A cactus or succulent potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro is ideal.

5. Feed Them

Snake plants are the ultimate low-maintenance houseplants, so they don’t require much fertilizer. But in March, as they start actively growing again for the spring and summer, it’s a good idea to fertilize snake plants with a dose of plant food.

If you repotted your snake plants, they may not need any extra fertilizer because many potting mixes include plant food. If you did not repot and have not fed your snake plants since last spring, then it’s time to give them a nice, nourishing dose of all-purpose indoor plant food, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Check these easy snake plants care tasks off your to-do list in March and soon your snake plants will be healthier and happier than ever!

Spring Snake Plant Essentials

If you love your snake plant, you’ll be happy to know that propagating a snake plant in water is easy. Rooting snake plant cuttings in water is a simple way to get another free, aesthetically pleasing houseplant to add to your collection.

While rooting a snake plant in water is one way to propagate this popular houseplant it isn't the only way, but it is the easiest. Keep reading to learn how to propagate snake plants the simple way.

Can You Propagate a Snake Plant in Water?

The easiest way to propagate a snake plant is by taking leaf cuttings and rooting them in water, but there are several other easy ways to propagate plants. You can also put leaf cuttings directly into soil to root, divide plants, or propagate them from rhizomes.

The simplest method, however, is to propagate plant cuttings in water. Although, it isn’t a sure fire way to get variegation. If you have variegated snake plant varieties and you want to repeat those pattern in new plants, divide your variegated plants rather than propagating leaf cuttings in water.

The really neat thing about propagating cuttings in water is that you get to see the roots grow. This is not only fascinating, but will let you easily know when the cuttings are ready to be planted in soil.

Pros & Cons of Propagating a Snake Plant in Water

One disadvantage to rooting snake plant cuttings in water is that they rot more easily than those rooted in soil, especially because cuttings take a long time (typically 2-3 months) to form roots and pups.

However, rooting cuttings in soil takes even longer. It can take up to 6 months or more for the cuttings to form roots and in that time, it isn’t easy to see what the roots are doing since they are under the soil.

Another downside to rooting cuttings in water vs. potting medium is that the resulting roots are less adapted to growing in soil. Thus they are more prone to stress like browning or tip die-back than cuttings rooted directly in soil medium.

How to Propagate a Snake Plant in Water

Propagating a snake plant in water is simple and can be done in three easy steps. The hardest part is waiting for your cuttings to root.

1. Take Your Cuttings

The ideal time to propagate a snake plant is in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Only take cuttings from a robust, healthy plant.

To propagate your plant, select a healthy leaf and cut it close to the soil with a clean pair of pruners, like this pair from Fiskars on Amazon. Then cut the leaf into 3-4 inch (7-10 cm) pieces, each with a bottom cut that is triangular in shape to create more surface area for roots to form.

2. Place Cuttings in Water

Place the cuttings with the pointed end up, in a jar of water. A mason jar or any clear glass container will work. Turn your plant propagation project into a decor focal point with this propagation station from Amazon. It looks beautiful in any interior and the wide mouths on the glass vases are big enough to fit snake plant leaves.

Put the containers with your cuttings in bright indirect light. Leave them in this area for several weeks. Change the water if it gets cloudy or evaporates too much. Never let the developing roots become exposed to air. Keep them covered with water at all times.

3. Transplant Rooted Cuttings

Unlike other houseplants which may root within weeks, snake plant cuttings require patience as they can take 2-3 months before they root enough to pot. After a couple of months, you should see well-established roots. At this time, the roots should be an inch (2.5 cm) or longer.

Plant the cutting in a small pot with a well-draining potting medium, like this Miracle-Gro from Ace Hardware that's specifically made for succulents like snake plants. Then place the planted cutting in an area with bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist. Care for your new snake plant in the same way as you would a plant you bought from a nursery or plant shop.

Snake plant problems are typically rare since this hard-to-kill houseplant is adaptable and easy to grow. The most common snake plant problems are often related to incorrect watering, poor soil, improper lighting, and extreme temperatures.

For gardeners who place their snake plants outdoors in the warm season, pests can become an issue. If you’re growing your plant indoors year round, however, most issues are due to the wrong environmental conditions and a lack of basic snake plant care needs.

Let’s take a look at the causes behind some of the most common snake plant problems, as well as simple ways to solve them or prevent them in the first place.

Common Causes of Snake Plant Problems

Even the most well-meaning plant parents can end up making fatal mistakes. Here are the 7 most common care errors that can cause your snake plant to die.

1. Overwatering

The most frequent snake plant problems stem from incorrect watering. These plants live in rocky, dry soil in their natural habitats. These sites drain water away easily and do not hold moisture. In commercial cultivation, snake plants are grown in limestone fields with loose soil. So in the home, a snake plant needs very little water.

You should only water snake plants when the soil is dry to the touch about an inch (2.5 cm) below the soil level. After watering, wait 15 minutes and remove any extra moisture that leached into the dish under your pot. Leaving it to sit in water can cause root rot in snake plants.

Also, be sure to grow your plant in a pot with drainage holes. This is an absolute must. You can find tons of different styles of indoor plant pots at Walmart that will suit any kind of home decor.

During the dormant season in fall and winter, allow your snake plant to dry out between watering. This could be every two weeks or up to a month, depending upon the conditions in your house and where the plant is situated.

If you see any mold forming on the soil or the leaves start tipping over, those are signs of an overwatered snake plant. When giving plants a drink, direct water to the base of the plant at the soil and avoid splashing on the leaves to prevent further snake plant problems.

2. Using the Wrong Soil

To avoid common snake plant problems due to soil, it is important to mimic its natural growing medium. Many home growers opt for standard potting soil, but this can hold onto excess moisture and encourage fungal issues.

Incorporating gritty material to potting soil will help. This could be coconut coir, gravel, sand, rough bark, perlite, or other heavily textured organic items. A cactus or succulent potting mix will provide near perfect soil conditions for this succulent. Repot your snake plants into containers filled with Miracle-Gro’s cactus potting mix from Ace Hardware to give them exactly what they need.

3. Giving Plants Too Little or Too Much Light

Though snake plant light requirements are generally low, the best growth and foliage occur when you give them moderate sun. Place your snake plant where it will receive bright, indirect light. Keep the plant out of bright sunlight or the leaf tips will burn and turn brown and brittle.

The best location is several feet away from a southern or western-facing window. If you have to place the plant closer to the window, screen it with a sheer curtain. In office buildings or areas with only artificial light, supplement the sun with a plant light, like this Amazon favorite that quickly clips onto any desk or tabletop.

4. Keeping Your House Too Cold

Snake plants are a warm climate species and have little to no cold tolerance. Inside the home, temperatures between 65-80 degrees Fahrenheit (18-27 C) are ideal for growing snake plants. Do not allow your plant to remain in temperatures below 55 F (13 C). If you grow snake plants outdoors, temperatures below 50 F (10 C) can kill them.

Avoid placing the container near blowing heat or AC vents and drafty windows or doors. Rapid temperature fluctuations can stress your plant. Snake plants grown in an area that’s too cold will form narrow leaves with little banding.

5. Ignoring Pests & Diseases

Snake plants are super stoic and rarely have complaints. But if they are grown outdoors, sucking insects can be an issue. Mealybugs, scale, aphids, and mites are the most common snake plant pests. Wipe leaves with rubbing alcohol or spray the plant with horticultural oil to keep pests at bay. This Bonide spray from Amazon should do the trick.

The primary snake plant diseases are fungal and caused by overwatering, excess humidity, heavy soil, and lack of drainage. Don’t grow snake plants in the same pot as other houseplants, especially ones with differing care needs. Give snake plants the proper growing conditions and they should be disease-free.

6. Not Cleaning Plants

When grown in the home, snake plants will develop a coating of dust over their large leaves. This can limit the amount of sunlight the plant is able to take in and turn into food. Clean your houseplants by wiping the leaves frequently. This will remove the layer dust and allow plants to fully photosynthesize.

If you see a leaf or two turning brown and dying, this is normal. The older leaves will die to make room for new leaves. If these leaves on your snake plant are drooping, trim them out with sterile shears and keep the cut end out away from moisture until it calluses over.

7. Planting in the Wrong Size Pot

Snake plants are one of those unusual houseplants that prefer to be root bound. They have shallow, small root systems and they like to be squeezed into a pot that accommodates that. Planting them in a large container with too much soil can cause you to overwater in order to saturate the whole pot, which can then lead to root rot.

However, if your plant is too constricted in the pot, its roots cannot uptake enough moisture. For severely crowded plants, remove the root bound plants from their container and divide them. Carefully brush soil from the roots and rhizomes and gently tease apart sections that contain at least three leaves. Repot each section into snug pots.

If you’re keen to grow a low-maintenance snake plant but lack space, try growing Dracaena trifasciata ‘Hahnii’, also known as the bird’s nest snake plant. Native to West Africa, this is a compact form of snake plant or Mother-in-law’s tongue.

This rosette-forming snake plant variety has sword-shaped, dark green leaves with silvery bands. Its foliage is thick and feels succulent-like. The ‘Hahnii’ snake plant is an adorable mini snake which is as tolerant of neglect as its larger relative. As well as ‘Hahnii’, you can also get ‘Golden Hahnii’ snakes with yellow banding. Here’s how to care for yours so you get the most from these easygoing diminutive houseplants.

Bird’s Nest Snake Plant Care

In nature, this snake plant forms a single spike of aromatic, green blooms in the spring which give way to bright orange berries. Although this plant is hardy to USDA zones 9a-11b, ‘Hahnii’ snake plant is grown as a houseplant in most climates. It is notable for its drought and salt tolerance.

Snake plant ‘Bird’s Nest’ is very forgiving and should require minimal care. However, you can make sure this small snake plant variety has the best chance of lasting for longer if you cultivate it with the following conditions.

• Lighting: These snake plants need very little sunlight to photosynthesize, which makes them ideal for low light areas like bedrooms. Snakes are known for being some of the best low light houseplants you can grow. However, they will also thrive in direct sunlight.
• Temperature & Humidity: Bird’s nest snake plants tolerate low humidity and cool temperatures. That said, they prefer average home humidity levels and temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C). Temperatures below 50°F (10°C) can damage and even kill the plants.
• Soil & Compost: For the best snake plant care, the soil or compost should be well-draining. A succulent or cactus medium is a great option. Otherwise, use a well-draining potting soil and amend it with perlite or sand.

• Water: This extraordinary variety of houseplant will tolerate the occasional lapse in watering. In fact, it is overwatering you should watch out for, as it can result in root rot. Let the soil dry between waterings during the growing season. In the winter, when the plant is dormant, water once a month or less.
• Fertilizer: Bird’s Nest snake plants do not usually require fertilizer, however, they may benefit from the use of an all purpose balanced food with an NPK of 10-10-10 in the spring and summer.
• Pruning: Bird’s Nest plants generally need no pruning with the exception of removing the occasional dead or dying leaf.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Although these snake plants are relatively hard to kill houseplants, they are prone to aphids, fungus gnats, mealy bugs, scale and spider mites. Usually, these pests are not a problem for indoor houseplants. If you do find an infestation, spray the plant with an insecticidal soap. In the case of fungal gnats, allow the soil to dry completely before watering. Sticky traps can be useful for capturing pests.

Fungal diseases like root rot and leaf spot may be a problem with these snake plants. Again, allow the soil to dry between waterings and if necessary, treat the plant with a fungicide. Plants may get yellowing leaves which could be due to overwatering or a lack of nutrients. The leaves may also become brown at the tips which could be a sign of underwatering, low humidity or fluoridated water. If growth is very slow, it may mean the plant needs to be repotted or fertilized.

Repotting Bird’s Nest Snake Plants

If your bird's nest snake plant is looking a little under par and you have eliminated pests and diseases, it may be time to repot it. Although the plant does grow slowly, it will need a new container after two or three years, or when the plant has doubled in size. Repot in early spring when the plant is dormant. Choose a container with adequate drainage holes. Make sure the pot is a size larger than the current one.

Remove the plant from its current container. Loosen the roots, and trim off any damaged roots. Repot the plant in the new container with fresh succulent medium or similar, and give it some water. If adding to a combination of houseplants, make sure the pot is placed at a sensible distance from the others for good air flow.

Bird’s Nest Snake Plant Propagation

You can propagate these snake plants in a couple of ways, either by dividing the plant or taking leaf cuttings. In the case of dividing the plant, look for offshoots. Remove the offshoot with a sterile knife. Pot the offshoot in a good-quality, well-draining soil.

To take a leaf cutting, select a healthy leaf and sever it from the plant with a sterile knife. Let the cutting cure or dry for a day. Plant the cut end in soil and water lightly.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you are caring for one of these vertically appealing succulents, you may be curious about snake plant fertilizer. Do snake plants need fertilizer? In their native range, tropical West and West Central Africa, they thrive in dry, rocky areas.

These environments are generally almost devoid of nutrients, which means the plant is adapted to relatively low nutrient availability. And growing snake plants is generally considered to be an easy, low-maintenance houseplant endeavor.

But like any plant, especially those in the captivity of a container, snake plants do have nutritional needs that must be supplemented. Their long, pointed leaves require nitrogen, chiefly, for health and growth.

Do Snake Plants Need Fertilizer?

Snake plants are unique foliage, grown for their erect, slightly rigid, but occasionally arching, thick, succulent leaves. These are variegated with lighter shades of green, gray green, and some yellow.

As with any plant, snake plants require a supply of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These are the macronutrients listed as a ratio on fertilizer packets as NPK. Nitrogen is good for foliar growth, color, and health. Phosphorus helps with root, fruit, and seed production. Potassium is important to photosynthesis and reproduction.

Snake plants do flower but it is rare in the home setting. They will not need a fertilizer high in phosphorus, but they do need a little bit to help with root establishment.

Best Fertilizer For Snake Plants

Snake plants are super stoic in regards to site, soil, water, and nutrient density. They are well adapted to harsh conditions and rarely need feeding. But when they do, applications of a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10, will provide all the nutrients the plant requires.

A standard houseplant fertilizer diluted by half will fulfill the plant’s needs. You could also invest in a succulent formula, especially made for this group of plants. These types of fertilizers have low rations of the macronutrients. A succulent formula will usually have a lower 1 number which is nitrogen.

A good homemade succulent fertilizer is a mixture of pulverized egg shells, dried and crushed banana peels, coffee grounds, and well diluted fish emulsion. The plant also responds well to a top dress of compost.

How Often To Fertilize Snake Plants

Succulents go into a dormant state starting fall and lasting through winter. The lower daylight hours signal to the plant that it is time to take a break from growing. During this dormant stage, snake plants should not be fertilized.

Once the days begin to get longer, the plant will come out of its hibernation and start new cell activity. This is generally in late winter and early spring and is when you should start fertilizer for snake plants.

How often to fertilize snake plant? The frequency depends upon the dilution of the formula you use and the type. If you are using a time release granular formula, feed the plant once in spring. Similarly, feed once in the spring if you use plant spikes. These will both break down gradually and slowly release nutrients over the growing months.

On average, a liquid food should be diluted by half and applied once per month in the growing season.

How To Fertilize Snake Plants

Liquid foods should be watered directly into the root zone. Take care not to get the leaves wet. Fertilizer plant spikes are pushed into the soil near the root zone and should be followed by water. Granular foods are scratched lightly into the soil and followed by water.

If you are making a homemade liquid fertilizer mixture such as the one above, suspend the dry ingredients in water and add a small amount of the emulsion. Water this into the root zone.

Compost may be spread over the top 1 inch (2.54 cm.) of the soil and will gradually break down and release nutrients. Try to keep the compost off the bases of the leaves.

Frequently Asked Questions

Snake plant, which is also known as mother-in-law plant or mother-in-law’s tongue, is a common and popular houseplant. It is a tropical evergreen perennial known for being easy to care for, tolerant of low light and able to survive neglect.

Although snake plants come in many different varieties, they generally have long, narrow, lance-like leaves with striking variegated coloring. It’s a popular houseplant, but if the conditions are right, you may be able to grow a snake plant outside.

Can Snake Plants Live Outside?

If you enjoy this striking plant inside, you might be wondering if you can grow it outside, too. The tall, upright leaves of snake plant make excellent elements on patios and in beds next to plants with different textures and colors. Surely, they can grow outside in summer in most places, but do snake plants grow in winter outdoors?

Unfortunately, the answer is no for most gardens. Snake plant is only hardy in North America in USDA zones 10 and higher. This includes South Florida, extreme South Texas, and a handful of areas in Arizona and southern California. If your garden is in the right zone, you can grow snake plants outside year-round.

If you live in a colder climate outside of snake plant’s hardiness zones, consider moving it outside in summer. Transition it slowly outdoors to avoid shocking the plant. Put it in shade for a few hours, increasing the time outside each day over the course of a couple of weeks.

Before growing outdoor snake plants in one of these warm regions, it’s important to understand that it’s not a native plant. Because snake plants are so tough and long-lived, it has the potential to be invasive. It is difficult to get rid of snake plants once they have taken hold in your garden. If you want to grow it outside, keep it from spreading and consider growing it only in containers.

Temperature and Humidity Requirements

Snake plant is native to tropical regions of West Africa, which means it evolved to grow in warm, humid conditions. Snake plant temperatures inside or outside should ideally be between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 29 Celsius). Outside temperatures should not get lower than 55 degrees (13 Celsius) for very long.

While a snake plant appreciates humidity, it doesn’t require a lot of moisture to thrive. The soil should dry out between waterings. It’s easier to overwater snake plants than underwater them. Too much water, poor drainage, and soggy roots can quickly lead to rot.

Light Requirements

Snake plants' ideal light requirement is partial sun, dappled shade, or indirect light. This tolerance for low light conditions is one reason a snake plant is a popular choice for growing indoors. When growing outside, avoid placing it in direct, bright light. A location under a patio or under taller plants is ideal.

Pests

Pests are often more of an issue indoors with snake plants than outdoors. Some of the common pests of indoor snake plants include mealybugs, spider mites, and fungus gnats. Bring plants outdoors for summer and give them a good rinse with water to get rid of pests.

Treat fungus gnats with sticky traps. They don’t harm the plant but are unsightly. Use rubbing alcohol on mealy bugs, and an appropriate insecticide on spider mites.

Frequently Asked Questions

More Snake Plant Ideas

• Only have a little bit of space, but want a new snake plant? Our plant experts swear by these 6 small snake plant varieties to sneak a little textural interest into any space.
• Learn how to propagate snake plants for endless fun! Snake plants can be divided or propagated in water or soil from cuttings.
• Interested in learning more about designing your garden? Try our free Outdoor Spaces Mini-Course on the Gardening Know How Learning Channel.
• Get more tips, tricks, advice and product recommendations delivered straight to your inbox when you sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter.

Snake plants are popular houseplants grown for their resilience and beautiful upright foliage. While they may be easy to care for, they can be prone to a variety of diseases, one of which is snake plant root rot. What causes root rot in a snake plant and how can you keep snake plant’s roots from rotting? Keep reading to learn the causes of and how to treat root rot in snake plants.

What Is Root Rot?

Many plants are susceptible to root rot but what is it? Root rot is an umbrella term for a number of diseases that result in the decomposition of the root system. The disease is generally a fungal infection.

You can identify root rot by leaves that are wilted, yellowing, or pale accompanied by a mildew or rotten odor arising from the soil. In some cases, visible fungal growth may be present. If root rot is suspected, further evidence can be found by examining the plant's roots. If root rot is present, the roots will look brown to black and in extreme cases be mushy, slimy and smell foul.

Why Are Snake Plants Susceptible To Root Rot?

What causes root rot in snake plants? Overwatered snake plants are most prone to root rot. When you overwater your snake plant, which is fairly drought resistant, oxygen is squelched. This allows hundreds of species of soil-borne bacteria and fungi flourish. Some fungi that cause root rot include Fusarium, Phytophthora, Pythium, and Rhizoctonia which thrive in wet soil. Hand-in-hand with overwatering, is a snake plant that is in compacted soil or a soil that is not well-draining.

How To Prevent Root Rot

Since root rot is fostered by overwatering, the obvious course is to avoid giving your snake plant too much water. Also, the type of container and soil medium you use can help prevent root rot.

Container

Snake plants are hardy specimens that among other attributes can tolerate infrequent watering. But along with infrequent watering, you need to plant them in the right container.

The correct container for a snake plant, really almost all houseplants, should have adequate drainage holes. The general rule is that a container should have at least 2 holes however, it really depends on the size of the pot.

For example, pots that are 36 inches (91 cm) should have 3-4 holes while those that are 46 inches (1.2 m) should have 4-6 drainage holes.

Also, avoid using containers that have attached saucers since these will not allow the soil to drain freely resulting in the snake plant sitting in water.

Soil Type

The type of soil you use to plant your snake plant is important. You will need a well-draining soil medium. It should contain one or more of the following: sand, perlite, biochar, or pumice to facilitate drainage.

Frequency of Watering

As mentioned, snake plants are drought resistant. This means that over-watering can be an issue. Snake plants should be watered every 2 weeks, however, it really depends on their environment.

To ensure you are watering your snake plant properly, stick your finger into the soil. If it is dry down 2 inches (5 cm), go ahead and water.

During the warmer months you may have to water a bit more often, especially if you have moved your snake plant outside. During the winter months when the plant is dormant, reduce the amount of water your plant gets.

When you do water, water at the base of the plant and water thoroughly, letting the water drain freely from the drainage holes. It is best to do this in a tub or sink.

Can You Resurrect After Root Rot?

Once you’ve ascertained the plant has root rot, can you save it? It really depends on how bad the disease has progressed.

If you have caught it early enough, you will need to repot or transplant the snake plant. Remove the plant from the container and soil. Snip off any decaying roots with sanitized shears as well as any rotting leaves.

Treat the plant with a fungicide. Then replant the snake plant. If using the same container, disinfect it first.

Use a well-draining potting soil or make your own incorporating one or more of the above drainage facilitators. A succulent mix is perfect. Repot the plant and water it lightly.

More Houseplant Help

• Snake plants are easy and beautiful houseplants, but are they safe for your four-legged best friend? Read on to learn if snake plants are safe for dogs and cats.
• Planning where to put that new houseplant? Learn how to create bright, indirect light so your new plant baby can thrive!
• Looking for houseplant answers and gardening inspiration? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter to have clever tips and ideas delivered straight to your inbox.

Snake plants are common houseplants, grown for their exotic spear-like leaves and their nifty air purification qualities, but are snake plants toxic to dogs? While you seem to have found the perfect low maintenance, ultra-cool houseplant, did you perhaps neglect to consider if a snake plant is dog safe? Don’t fret but let’s dive right into it. Keep reading to see if a snake plant is poisonous to dogs.

Are Snake Plants Toxic to Dogs?

If you’re a houseplant fan as well as a dog owner, you probably know that some plants are poisonous to dogs, but are snake plants safe for them? Are snake plants toxic to dogs?

Unfortunately, the answer is yes, the snake plant is toxic to dogs.

Also called golden bird’s nest and mother-in-law's tongue, the snake plant contains compounds called saponins. Saponins are natural glycosides (sugars) that when combined with water produce a foam. Interestingly, they are also naturally occurring in fruit plants.

This foam, and its accompanying soapy texture, help to protect the plant from pests and disease; and apparently Fido’s questing chompers. When dogs chew on the leaves of the plant, they can exhibit gastric distress as well as other symptoms.

What Happens If a Dog Eats a Snake Plant?

As mentioned, the saponins contained in the snake plant result in gastric distress in dogs when they eat the leaves. Symptoms include drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea, as well as loss of appetite and lethargy.

Toxicity from snake plants can also cause lack of coordination like stumbling or weaving, and even changes in the dog’s heart rate and blood pressure.

And the toxins in snake plants don’t just affect dogs. They are also toxic to cats and horses.

How to Keep Dogs Safe Around Snake Plants

If you do have a dog, or really any indoor pets, it is better to err on the side of caution and place the snake plant at a level the animal can’t access it. If you have cats, that can be difficult! It might be better altogether if you gift your Sansevieria to a friend or relative that does not have pets.

What To Do If Your Dog Eats a Snake Plant

If your dog ingests some snake plant, don’t panic. First try to determine exactly how much they ate and if indeed the culprit is a snake plant.

Once you’ve verified that the plant is responsible for the dog’s illness, it’s time to load him/her into their crate and off to the veterinarian's office. Again, don’t panic. Rarely is the ingestion of a snake plant lethal. It usually only causes milder symptoms. Getting your dog to the vet quickly means the dog is at the right place for immediate treatment if needed.

For a complete listing of plants toxic to dogs, please visit: Cornell University: Poisonous Plants Affecting Dogs UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine: Pets and Toxic Plants

Frequently Asked Questions

Well-loved as easy indoor plants, snake plants remain popular among even the most persnickety of houseplant enthusiasts. Their adaptability and hardiness also make them an especially good choice for novice gardeners who are interested in growing indoor plants.

Though diversity among the snake plant species varies in terms of size and appearance, these plants’ general care needs are much the same. Essential to their growth, light plays a vital role in overall plant health and vitality. But, how much light do snake plants require? This guide explores snake plant light requirements in greater depth, taking special note of their versatility in low-light conditions indoors.

Do Snake Plants Require a Lot of Light?

As with most houseplants, adequate light is essential for keeping potted snake plants healthy and happy. Though snake plants are fairly adaptable under lower light conditions, most indoor specimens perform best where they can receive bright, indirect light through the majority of the day. Ample light contributes to their production of lush foliage, and may even help to promote blooming. Create bright, indirect light conditions by positioning the plants’ containers near an east or north-facing window, or where the sun has been well-filtered through curtains.

While at least 6-8 hours is ideal, experienced growers have seen good results with much less. Be careful to avoid direct light, as its high intensity is likely to result in damage to these plants in the form of burn or leaf scorch.

Check If Your Snake Plant Has the Right Light

Monitoring your snake plants’ overall health consistently can help you determine its best light conditions. You can also use specialized light meter equipment designed to measure light. Turn the plant’s container routinely to keep the foliage upright if its light exposure isn’t sufficient. Plants that have started to stretch and/or lean may require more adjusting. Extreme low light can be detrimental to a snake plant’s growth, so grow lights may be a good option.

Snake Plant Problems Related to Light

Quickly identifying and correcting problems related to light is essential to helping stressed plants recover more quickly. Inadequate light can manifest in the plant in a variety of ways. Drooping snake plant leaves can be a symptom of stunted growth and incorrect lighting. Too much sun can also cause leaf burn or a variety of other symptoms. Signs of excess light most commonly include the sudden yellowing or browning of foliage, as well as premature leaf drop. Curled leaves or dry, crumbling soil may also be an indicator of light-related problems.

Frequently Asked Questions

There are some very telling signs you have an overwatered snake plant. The trick is to catch the issue early, well before root rot sets in and kills the whole plant. Snake plants are one of the most popular houseplants and are valued for their dramatic beauty. A snake plant overwatered will express its displeasure first in its leaves. Overwatering a succulent, which includes the snake plant in its class, is one of the most common reasons for plant decline. Other factors that contribute to overwatering are heavy soil, lack of drainage holes, and the time of year.

Signs of an Overwatered Snake Plant

Think you may be guilty of overwatering your snake plant’s soil? These are succulent plants even though they don’t have spines or the characteristic plump pads and leaves of a typical succulent. But as succulents, they can conserve moisture and don’t respond well in soggy soil. Overly wet soil reduces oxygen movement, enhances certain diseases, and reduces the root’s ability to uptake both moisture and nutrients.

In an overwatered snake plant, the first signs are seen in the leaves. Visibly, the foliage will begin to turn yellow or brown. Notice if your snake plant leaves are droopy or feel soft and squishy. Properly watered leaves are firm and almost rigid. Black spots will occur on the leaves and the foliage will begin to sag. The soil could develop a white fungal covering, soil gnats may be present, and the roots could begin to rot in severe cases.

How to Fix an Overwatered Snake Plant

If you’ve caught it early, simply stop watering it until the soil is dry all the way down to the drainage holes. Remove any heavily damaged leaves.

If the leaves are turning squishy, remove the entire plant from its container and examine the roots. Root rot is the most common killer of these houseplants. If the roots are dark, brown and black, smelly and soft, things may have progressed too far. However, in an attempt to save the plant, get sharp, sterile scissors or pruners and remove any diseased roots. If you are left with at least half undamaged roots the plant could survive.

Sanitize the container with a bleach and water solution and allow it to air dry. Do not reuse the old soil which is harboring harmful fungal pathogens. Use a good succulent or cactus mixture that percolates easily and replant the snake plant at the same level it was before. If you wish, you can dust the roots with antifungal powder or dip them into a very light solution of 1 part bleach to 6 parts water.

When and How Much Water for Snake Plant

To prevent snake plant overwatering, a few tips could help. There is no specific rule as to when or how much water to give the plant. The amount and frequency depend on where the plant is located, what type of soil it is in, how large the container is, and what it is made from, as well as other factors:

• If the plant is near a heating vent it will dry much more quickly than one that is not.
• If the soil is standard potting soil it will retain water due to the presence of peat in the mixture.
• A very large container will harbor more moisture, while a plant that is pot-bound will not retain much water.
• A plant that is moved outside for the summer and is exposed to drying winds and overhead sun will dry out more quickly than one indoors.
• If the container is unglazed it will dry more readily than a glazed pot.
• The number of drainage holes will affect percolation.

So there isn’t a pat answer for watering times and amounts. You can gauge soil moisture in plants with a soil moisture meter or your hands. Water only when the soil is completely dry all the way to the bottom.

In the winter, the plant is in dormancy and not actively growing. During fall and winter, only water once per month on average. It is better to underwater these beautiful foliage plants than to overwater them. They are drought-tolerant and will survive until the next irrigation cycle.

Are snake plants toxic to cats? The snake plant, also known as mother-in-law’s tongue, is a popular houseplant. It’s easy to care for, not picky about conditions, and tolerates some neglect. Snake plants are also attractive, with long, blade-like, variegated leaves. However, those attractive leaves can make snake plants appealing to cats who like to nibble.

Are Snake Plants Toxic to Cats?

If you’re a houseplant fan as well as a cat owner, you probably know that some plants are toxic to cats, but are snake plants safe for cats? Perhaps not exactly poisonous, these plants can be quite toxic to cats because of specific compounds found in them. Saponins are compounds in snake plants that protect them from pests and infections. These compounds are toxic to many animals, including cats.

The saponins primarily cause gastrointestinal distress, so your cat has to eat the plant to experience the toxic effects. Snake plant toxicity is not severe. If your cat only ingests a small amount, she may not get sick or may get mildly sick.

What happens if a cat licks a snake plant? If your cat has only licked the plant, she is unlikely to experience any symptoms or they will be very mild.

Signs of Snake Plant Poisoning in Cats

You may notice right away that your cat ate some of your snake plants. If not, you might notice symptoms in your cat and wonder why. Check the cat’s mouth for plant matter. Check the plant for signs that a cat has nibbled on it.

When your cat consumes part of a snake plant, the toxins interact with cholesterol in the membranes of cells in the gut. This causes irritation and inflammation. The resulting symptoms may include:

• Drooling
• Nausea
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy
• Swelling in the mouth or throat

What to Do if Your Cat Eats Snake Plant

Although the snake plant is not severely toxic, it’s still a good idea to contact your vet if your cat consumes it. They can advise you about what to do next and if the cat needs to come in for treatment.

There isn’t much you can do immediately to help your cat unless you catch them in the act. If you see your feline eating a plant, open her mouth and remove any plant material. Move the plant so she cannot access it again. Seek emergency veterinary care if your cat is struggling to breathe or has other severe symptoms and your vet is unavailable.

How to Prevent Your Cat Eating Snake Plants

Snake plants and cats don’t mix, so it’s best not to keep this plant if you have cats. Alternatively, you can take steps to prevent your cat from eating your snake plant.

The best way to protect the plant and your cat is to put it out of reach. You can keep it in a glass cabinet or in a high location the cat cannot access.

You might also consider spraying the leaves with a product designed to taste bad to cats. One bite and they likely won’t touch it again. If your cat can reach your snake plant, check it regularly for signs of nibbling.

Frequently Asked Questions

The snake plant is a highly unusual houseplant – and not just because of its amusing and slightly bizarre names (mother-in-law’s tongue or viper’s bowstring hemp, anyone?). Its stiff, upright leaves can dominate a room, but what if you’re after something a little smaller? Fortunately there are plenty of small snake plant cultivars perfectly suited to more compact dwellings and modest apartments. So if your houseplant tastes are less grandiose or gargantuan, you’re sure to love these super cute small snake and dwarf snake plant varieties…

Choosing the Best Small Snake Plant Varieties

Standard snakes can reach fairly formidable heights over time. The specimen plant can grow to several feet high, depending on the cultivar and plant care. That said, there are teeny-weeny options out there, and searching for the smallest snake plant breeds isn’t that tricky.

There are several breeds that cater for indoor gardeners who are limited in space or just after something a little bit novelty. These miniature snake plant varieties can be grown as specimens or in groupings. Furthermore, their snake plant care needs are just as straightforward as their more majestic counterparts.

1. Black Robusta

Black Robusta is a shorter cultivar of the species snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata). It offers attractive variegated leaves – dark green with greyish bands and silver flecks. Planted outdoors, these snake plants form colonies and grow up to two feet (.6m) wide.

Native to arid areas, they prefer sandier composts with a neutral pH. They will quickly become some of your favorite houseplants in spots, especially in spots where light is relatively low.

2. Dwarf Laurentii

Dwarf Laurentii is also a small mother-in-law tongue plant, and another dwarf version of Sansevieria trifasciata. Its wide, stiff sword-shaped leaves don't grow above six inches (15cm) tall, and present as forest green foliage with yellow margins and lighter banding.

While these snakes can form the basis of perfect houseplant combinations for every room, they prefer warmer temperatures (above 50°F/10°C). They are also happiest in a sandy, well-drained potting mix.

3. Black Star

The leaves of the Black Star cultivar (Sansevieria trifasciata) are very dark green and exceptionally attractive with their golden yellow margins. Furthermore, the foliage presents as thick and glossy.

Black Star is a striking choice if you want small indoor plants for low light areas. This cultivar is not technically a miniature snake plant but it grows very slowly, topping out at about 1.5 feet (45cm) tall.

4. Golden Hahnii

You want a dwarf snake plant? Hahnii (also known simply as the Bird’s Nest) is one of the smallest snake plants available in the species group (Sansevieria trifasciata). In its most compact form, it presents with a pleasing cupped rosette of spikes, growing about six inches (15cm) tall.

It’s the perfect small low-light houseplant, with stiff elliptic leaves that look just like those of the species plant. Foliage is dark green with light green and yellow banding. Blossoms are small and green and white.

5. Samurai Dwarf

Sansevieria ehrenberghii is another variety of snake plant, often referred to as blue sansevieria. It is an evergreen succulent, native to tropical Africa, with blue-green leaves that can rise to five feet (1.5m) tall. Each leaf is one inch (2.5cm) wide with a groove along its entire length, and the foliage forms a loose fan shape.

Distinctive to this type, the edges have a very narrow creamy border that only serves to accentuate the fleshy nature of the leaves. Blossoms are tube-shaped and cream-colored and appear in loose clusters. Samurai Dwarf grows to just six inches (15cm) high.

6. Silver Blue

Sansevieria kirkii is another variety of the snake plant, also native to tropical Africa. And for those who like their snake plants on the short side and super chunky, this diminutive darling is quite the spectacle. Generally, leaves are dark grey-green with white patterns and can top out at about three feet tall (1m).

Cultivar Silver Blue is about one-sixth of the height of the species plant, topping out at six inches (15cm) with wavy leaf margins and a bluish cast. Kirkii cultivars are ideal for snake plant propagation, so you can easily dot those mini blue beauties around the house.

Other Great Houseplant Ideas

• Want more small-scale houseplants that can make a big impression? Find out about some easy and extraordinary houseplant varieties to fill your interior spaces.
• Interior trendsetters looking for the next big thing? Our roundup of the hottest houseplants of the year offers oodles of indoor inspiration.
• Love your houseplants but short on time? Try these hard to kill houseplants to fill your home with low-maintenance loveliness.
• Fed up of all the potting mix that accumulates around your indoor plants? Read our guide to growing houseplants in water for happy hydroponic houseplants.

There are over 70 species of snake plant varieties, also known as Sansevieria. Many are desert-type plants, but several are tropical foliage varieties. Many types of snake plants are too large for home cultivation but there are still numerous cultivars from which to choose for the home gardener. Snake plant care is incredibly easy, and their attractive sword-like upright leaves make them a popular selection for houseplants.

Unfortunately, the plant can be toxic to domestic animals, so if you have a nibbler, this plant may not be right for you.

Stunning Snake Plant Varieties

Snake plants have leaves that are broad at the base and rise up to a point. There are species with leaves just 6 inches (15.24 cm.) and those that can achieve 12 feet (.61 m.) in height. They are frequently found in malls, doctor’s offices, and commercial centers because they don’t require a lot of care and have stunning, architectural appeal. They can also handle the low light or artificial lighting situations of many of these locations.

• Hahnii: A dwarf form that has a rosette of leaves growing 6 inches ( 15.24 cm.) tall. There will be 6-12 deeply green leaves painted with a white stripe down the middle. There is also Golden Hahnii, with a broad yellow band through the center.
• Moonshine: A glorious plant with fairly broad leaves in silver-green with darker green at the margin. The plant should be in brighter light to retain the silver tones. In lower light, it is darker green. It may also be sold as Moonglow.
• Samurai Dwarf: Another smaller cultivar that is very adaptable and features thick, v-shaped leaves with red edges. The leaves can reach 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in length.
• Mother-in-law’s Tongue: This may be the most common form of Sansevieria. It is 3-4 feet (.91-1.22 m.) tall at maturity and has long leaves adorned with green variegation and gold edges.
• Shark Fin: This plant is also called Whale fin due to its broad, paddle-shaped leaves. Mature leaves are 10 inches (25 cm.) wide and 4 feet (1.22 m.) tall. Deeply green leaves sport cream spots and burgundy edges.
• Boncel: A short, stubby rosette with thickened, rounded leaves. Also called Starfish, the plant leaves spread out like a fan as they mature. The leaves have light variegated banding.
• Twisted Sister: Also called Gold Twist, this cultivar has curved, shorter leaves with yellow, gold, and green markings. It is fairly small at only 15 inches (38 cm.) in height.
• Silver Queen: A lovely snake plant with silver foliage bearing light green horizontal bands. The older leaves will tend to be darker and plants in low light will lose some of the silver as it turns green.
• Cylindrical Snake Plant: A very unique-looking cultivar with mostly erect slender, rounded leaves. It is also called African Spear and has tremendous architectural appeal.
• Goldband Snake Plant: Laurentii or Gold Band Snake Plant is an upright cultivar with a zigzag pattern of gold and green on its leaves.

Frequently Asked Questions

With a nickname like mother-in-law's tongue, one might think snake plants are anything but lovable. Yet, despite the moniker and the connotations associated with it, snake plants continue to be one of the most popular houseplants. They require very little care, which can make it difficult to judge if repotting a snake plant would be beneficial.

When To Repot a Snake Plant 

As a general rule of thumb, snake plants can be repotted every 3 to 5 years. These popular houseplants prefer being a bit snug in their pots. In fact, snake plants won't produce flowers unless they feel the stress of being rootbound. 

Yet, holding off the repotting process for too long can be detrimental to the health of the plant. If you're unsure, look for these telltale signs that it's time to transplant a snake plant: 

• There are roots growing on the surface of the soil or through the drain holes of the planter.
• Water runs through the pot too quickly.
• The leaves are rotting at the base from overwatering or poor drainage. 
• The plant is overcrowded and needs divided.
• The pot has cracked from the pressure of being rootbound.

How to Repot a Snake Plant

Follow these tips to reduce transplant shock and help your snake plant adjust to its new home: 

• Size matters – Choose a planter which is about 2 inches (5 cm.) larger in diameter than the current pot. An excessively big container will retain too much moisture and may not adequately support a top-heavy snake plant. 
• Sanitize equipment – To prevent the spread of viral, bacterial and fungal diseases, sterilize all tools and any pots which have been previously used.
• Choose a lightweight soil – To discourage root rot, select a commercial potting mix designed for cacti or blend your own soilless medium.
• Water well – To prevent wilting and reduce transplant shock, hydrate the plant at least an hour before beginning the snake-plant repotting process.
• Remove gently – To avoid damaging the foliage and roots of the plant, turn the pot on its side and push or tap the bottom to release the snake plant. If the planter is already cracked, cut or break the remaining pot for ease of removal.
• Examine and prune the roots – Healthy roots are firm to the touch and are white or off-white in color. Remove sections of roots which exhibit signs of damage. Loosen or cut through dense mats of roots to encourage new growth.
• Division – Removing and repotting snake plant pups will give the plant a tidier appearance. Keep these new plants for yourself or share with family and friends. 
• Line the pot – Place a coffee filter, coir liner or circle of landscape fabric in the bottom of the new pot to prevent soil leakage. Avoid using gravel in the bottom of the pot as this does not facilitate drainage and can lead to root rot.
• Don't plant too deep – Replant the snake plant to the same depth as before. Be sure to leave the soil level about an inch (2.5 cm.) below the top edge of the planter. 

After repotting, water to settle any loose soil and place the snake plant in bright, but indirect sunlight.

Kenya hyacinth, or Sansevieria parva, is a pretty, little succulent that makes a great houseplant. It produces flowers irregularly and can be grown outdoors in hot, dry regions. Care of Kenya hyacinth is not difficult if you provide the right soil and don’t overwater. Let’s learn more about growing this interesting snake plant.

What is a Kenya Hyacinth Snake Plant?

This handful of a name refers to Sansevieria parva, most commonly known as Kenya hyacinth snake plant. This is a succulent that is hardy in the U.S. in zones 10 and 11, but for everyone else, it makes a great houseplant.

Native to East Africa, flowering Sansevieria plants have narrow, spike-shaped leaves that grow between eight and sixteen inches (20.5 to 41 cm.) long. Each plant grows a cluster of six to twelve leaves.

The flowers of the Kenya hyacinth are small and white or pale pink. These plants don’t flower consistently, though. When they do, however, you’ll enjoy the lovely fragrance, but mostly expect to enjoy the foliage.

Growing Flowering Sansevieria

If you live in a hot, dry climate, you can use Kenya hyacinth outdoors for xeriscaping. It tolerates drought well and needs just dappled or partial sunlight. Indoors, this is a nice houseplant that will grow well in dry, well-drained soil.

Find a spot out of direct sunlight. If the edges of the leaves turn yellow, the plant is likely getting too much sun. Make sure the soil drains very well. Let it dry out between watering, and then soak the soil completely. A general fertilizer every few weeks will help your plant thrive.

The best way to propagate Sansevieria is by cuttings. Take cuttings in summer and allow four to six weeks for them to root. If your plant does flower, it will stop producing leaves. But new plantlets will sprout up from rhizomes or stolons, so look for them.

If you like succulents, try growing starfish sansevieria. What’s a starfish sansevieria? Starfish sansevieria plants, as their name suggests, are starfish-shaped succulents. The following article contains Sansevieria cylindrica info about growing starfish sansevieria and their care.

What is a Starfish Sansevieria?

Starfish Sansevieria ‘Boncel’ plants are rare but worth searching for. They are a more compact hybrid of Sansevieria cylindrica, or snake plant, a more common succulent. The plant has fan-shaped, light green foliage with dark green concentric circles from the top to the bottom of the leaf. Young “pups” spring from the base of the plant and can be easily transplanted to propagate new plants.

Sansevieria cylindrica Info

Sansevieria cylindrica is a succulent plant that is native to Angola. It is a common and revered houseplant in China where it is said to embody the eight virtues of the Eight Gods. It is an extremely hardy plant with striped, smooth, elongated gray/green leaves. 

They can get to about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) across and grow as long as 7 feet (2 m.). It grows in a fan shape with its stiff leaves arising from a basal rosette. It has subcylindrical leaves, tubular rather than strap-like. It is drought tolerant, needing water only about once every other week. 

It can grow in bright sun to partial sun but if allowed full sun, the plant will bloom with inch long (2.5 cm.), greenish white, tubular blossoms that are tinged with pink.

Starfish Sansevieria Care

Growing and caring for starfish sansevieria is just like caring for the common snake plant above. Also easy to care for, it prefers bright light but will tolerate lower levels. Plant starfish in regular succulent potting mix. Generally a houseplant, starfish sansevieria is hardy to USDA zones 10b to 11. Water starfish sansevieria only when it is completely dry. 

As a succulent, it collects water in its leaves so overwatering may cause the plant to rot. Place starfish sansevieria in a room with an average home temperature and protect it from drafts or cooler temps below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). Feed the plant once every three weeks with a general all-purpose houseplant food diluted by half.

Snake plant problems are rare and these common houseplants are so popular because they are easy to grow. You can neglect your snake plant for weeks and it will still likely thrive. Although this plant is very tolerant, it does need some basic care and it can show problems, including curling leaves, if neglected for too long. Read on for causes and what to do for a snake plant with curling leaves.

Why are My Snake Plant’s Leaves Curling?

Also known as mother in law’s tongue, snake plant is a great houseplant. The leaves of the snake plant are straight and regal, growing nearly as tall as three feet (1 m.) in some varieties. You’ll know something is wrong, though, when you see curled leaves on snake plants. What does this look like? The leaves will curl or fold in on themselves. They may look a little twisted and show signs of weakness before ultimately dying. You can take steps to prevent or manage curling leaves by knowing what to look for. The most likely cause of leaves curling on mother in law’s tongue and other varieties of snake plant is an infestation of thrips. Thrips are a tiny pest that you may not even be able to see. What you can see, though, is the result of the infestation. In addition to the curling leaves, you will see and feel rough patches. This is the result of the pest feeding on the leaves. Thrips can harm and even kill your plant, but these pests may also pass on viral infections, so treating it is essential.

Treating Snake Plants with Curling Leaves

To treat your snake plant that you suspect is infected with thrips, first remove all infected leaves entirely. Dispose of them so that they cannot infect any other plants. Next, wipe down remaining healthy leaves on your snake plant. A wet cotton ball or cloth will suffice, but wipe them down thoroughly and on both sides. While snake plant problems are not common, thrips is an infestation that can wipe out one or more plants. Be aware of the signs and treat your plants accordingly. If a plant does not look like it can be saved, destroy it so that it cannot infect your other plants. Also, keep in mind that strong, healthy plants are less likely to become a smorgasbord to pests. Regular, routine care of your snake plants will go a long way in preventing issues like this.

You may know mother-in-law plant (Sansevieria) as the snake plant, appropriately nicknamed for its tall, slender, upright leaves. If your snake plant has droopy leaves, it’s an indication that something isn’t right. Read on for suggestions about possible causes and fixes for a mother-in-law tongue with drooping leaves.

Help! My Snake Plant is Drooping!

If your snake plant has droopy leaves, there are a few likely possibilities.

Improper watering

Mother-in-law’s tongue is a succulent plant with thick, moisture-holding leaves. This built-in watering system allows the plant to survive in its native environment – dry, rocky regions of the West African tropics. 

Like all succulents, the snake plant is susceptible to root rot in soggy conditions, and droopy snake plant leaves often result when the plant is overwatered. Water the snake plant only when the top 2 or 3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) of soil is completely dry, and then water deeply until water runs through the drainage hole. 

Although conditions vary, a plant near a heat vent or a sunny window will need water more frequently. However, many people find that watering every two or three weeks is adequate. Water around the inside edge of the pot to keep the leaves dry, and then allow the pot to drain freely before replacing it on the drainage saucer. Don’t water again until the top of the soil is dry.

 Water sparingly during the winter months – only when the leaves begin to look slightly wilted. Once a month is usually enough. Also, be sure the plant is in a pot with a drainage hole. 

Use a fast-draining potting mix such as a mix formulated for cactus and succulent, or a regular potting soil with a handful of coarse sand or perlite to enhance drainage.

Lighting

Some people joke that Sansevieria is so hardy it can grow in a closet, but droopy snake plant leaves may result when the plant is in excessive darkness for long periods of time. 

The pattern in the leaves also tends to be more bright and prominent when the plant is exposed to light. Snake plant tolerates relatively bright light, but direct light from a south-facing window may be too intense and may be to blame for drooping mother-in-law’s tongue. 

However, a southern exposure works well during the winter months. A sunny west- or east-facing window is a good bet nearly any time of year. A north-facing window is acceptable, but long periods of northern exposure may eventually cause droopy snake plant leaves.

Repotting

If improper watering or lighting isn’t the reason for drooping mother-in-law’s tongue, check to see if the plant is rootbound. However, keep in mind that snake plant generally only needs repotting every three to five years. Move the plant to a container only one size larger, as a too-large pot holds an excessive amount of potting soil that can cause root rot.

What to Do When Mother-in-Law Plants Become Invasive

Beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder, and the (usually) popular snake plant, (Sansevieria), also known as mother-in-law tongue, is a perfect example. Read on and learn how to cope when this distinctive plant outgrows its boundaries.

Sansevieria (Mother-in-Law Tongue) – Weeds or Wonders?

Is mother-in-law tongue plant invasive? The answer is it depends on the variety. There are many different types of Sansevieria and most, including the popular Sansevieria trifasciata, are perfectly well behaved and make hardy, attractive indoor plants.

However, University of Florida IFAS Extension reports that Sansevieria hyacinthoides has escaped cultivation and has become a nuisance in south Florida – primarily coastal areas in USDA zone 10 and above.

The plant is native to tropical Africa and was introduced to the United States as an ornamental. It has been a problem since the early 1950s for its proclivity to choke out native species. Many experts consider the plant to be among the worst invaders of natural ecosystems.

How to Get Rid of Snake Plants

Unfortunately, control of mother-in-law tongue plant is extremely difficult. As of yet, no products have been approved for use against this harmful plant in the United States. Experiments with products containing toxic chemicals have proven to be largely ineffective.

The most effective way to remove small stands is by hand pulling or digging. Remove weeds when they are young and the rhizomes aren’t deep – always before the plant has time to bloom and go to seed. Weeding is easier if the ground is slightly moist. Be sure to remove entire plants and rhizomes, as even small plant pieces left in the ground can take root and grow new plants. Dress appropriately and watch for snakes and spiders, which are commonly found in snake plant thickets.

Persistence definitely pays off when it comes to control of mother-in-law tongue plant. Keep a careful watch on the area and pull plants as soon as they emerge. Despite your best efforts, total control may take two or three years. Large stands may require mechanical removal.

Luckily for houseplant enthusiasts, learning how to propagate a snake plant is almost as easy as caring for one. Snake plants (Dracaena trifasciata) are resilient, drought tolerant tropical plants from Western Africa. They are grown for their beautiful broad, green striped saber-like leaves and low maintenance. It’s no wonder why you might want to propagate more of these awesome plants.

There are a few different snake plant propagation methods you can use to expand your plant collection. You can grow more of this easy-care houseplant via seeds, cuttings, or division. Seeds can take years before growing into a mature plant and snake plant cuttings can take many weeks to grow, but division allows you to quickly establish a new plant.

I’ll walk you through how and when to try each method and share my top tips for snake plant care post-propagation. Soon you’ll have a huge plant collection you can share with all your friends and family!

Propagating Essentials

Best Methods for Snake Plant Propagation

You can propagate a snake plant either through division of the parent plant, stem or leaf cuttings, or by dividing rhizomes.

The most common and possibly the most successful method of propagation is by division of plantlets that the snake plant naturally produces. Division is also the fastest method and it is as simple as it sounds. You just divide a mature plant to get a second or even several new plants.

Rhizome division is similar to regular and is the second fastest method of propagation. By dividing rhizomes you are simply removing a rooted section of the plant.

Taking a stem or leaf cutting is another propagation method where a cutting of the snake plant is taken from the parent plant and then either rooted in water or planted directly into soil.

Propagating snake plants in water is a very easy method, too, but results in less root growth than rooting its cuttings in soil or other types of media. Propagating plants by cuttings takes a bit more time than division since you have to wait for roots to form.

Plus, propagations from cuttings will not necessarily give you the exact same plant with the same color or variegation. Use regular division or rhizome division if you wish to retain variegation.

You can also propagate snake plants from seed, but this is by far the most time-consuming method. Seeds are reluctant to germinate and can take up to six weeks, even in optimum conditions. This type of plant propagation is also much more difficult, so it is not a viable option for most home growers.

When to Propagate a Snake Plant

Snake plants grown indoors can be propagated at any time of the year except in the winter when plants are dormant. The ideal time to propagate snake plants is in the spring or summer when they are actively growing.

How to Propagate a Snake Plant

Now that you know about the various methods of propagating a snake plant, let’s take a look at how to do each one.

Division

A quick way to propagate mother-in law’s tongue is through plant division. You can either divide pups from the parent plant or divide rhizomes that will grow into new plants. I’ll walk you through both methods.

Pup Division

Like many succulents, snake plants produce pups or plantlets. These are small, genetically identical plants that grow from the same root system as the parent plant. A plantlet can be cleaved away from the parent plant once it has grown sufficient roots of its own.

When repotting a snake plant, simply remove some pups from the parent plant to propagate. Pot up each plantlet in its own smaller container, using the same kind of growing medium. This succulent potting mix from Miracle-Gro is a great choice for drought-hardy snake plants.

Water your new little plants lightly and avoid fertilizing until they have established themselves in their containers. This method results in an instant plant that’s identical to the parent.

Rhizome Division

Rhizomes house the energy for the plant’s leaf and stem growth. Remove the plant from its container and locate the rhizomes under the soil near the root system.

Use a clean knife or sharp pruning shears, like these ones from Fiskars, to cut the base into sections. Cut the plant in half unless it is really old and has masses of rhizomes you can propagate. A good rule of thumb is to take at least three rhizomes and one healthy leaf per new plant.

After you cut a rhizome from the base of the plant, allow it to callus for a couple of days. Callusing prevents root rot. Once the callus forms, pot the rhizome propagation into a container filled with well-draining potting mix.

Cuttings

Most fleshy-leaved plants can be propagated by leaf cuttings and snake plants are no exception. There are two ways to propagate snake plants by cuttings, either in soil or water.

Rooting in Soil

Cut a 4-8 inch (10-20 cm) section of leaf with a clean, sharp knife. Some gardeners suggest dipping the cutting into rooting hormone, which you can get on Amazon. But professional growers simply plant the basal end into a well-draining growing medium. But first, allow the cut leaf pieces to callus over and dry out for a couple of days. Place them on a paper towel on the counter to do this.

Once you see a whitish callus form, fill a pot or tray with about 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) of potting medium. Regular potting soil holds too much moisture and is too compact for snake plants to form roots.

A mixture of perlite, sand, vermiculite, coarse sand, sphagnum or peat moss, or any combination of these provide a better environment for propagating. To make sure your snake plant is getting exactly what it needs to form strong roots, use a specific succulent potting mix like this one from Amazon.

Moisten the medium prior to planting, keeping it moderately moist but not wet. If it’s too wet, the cutting may become infected with bacterial root rot.

Plant your snake plant cuttings into the potting medium and keep them in a warm place while roots form. This will take around 4-6 weeks. You can expect new leaves in 4-6 months.

Rooting in Water

The other way to propagate snake plant cuttings is similar to the method above. But instead of planting directly into soil, you will first root your cuttings in water and then transplant them into soil once roots form.

Select a healthy leaf that’s not too old and use clean, sharp shears to cut it off. Cut the leaf close to the soil and place the cut end in water. Insert the cut basal end into just enough water to cover the bottom of the leaf.

Rooting cuttings in tap water is an easy option, but you may see better results with filtered or distilled water since purified water reduce the introduction of pathogens.

Place the cutting in bright, indirect sun. Be sure to change the water and rinse the glass weekly to prevent disease. When the plant has at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of roots, plant it in a well-draining potting mix.

Seeds

Growing snake plants from seeds can be tricky. Since snake plants grow slowly, starting a plant from seed requires extra patience.

The dark brown seeds have a hard, wrinkly exterior so you need to soak seeds for a day prior to planting. To help with germination, you can also wrap the seeds in a moist paper towel inside a closed plastic baggie. If you choose this method, place the bag in a bright location where temperatures are between 65-80°F (18-26°C). After seeds sprout, plant them in a well-draining potting mix.

Alternatively, you can soak seeds for a day and then immediately plant them in a succulent or cactus potting mix. Water your seeds once a week or whenever the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry.

Post-Propagation Care

The snake plant is somewhat flexible about lighting and humidity, but is quite fussy about the amount of water it gets. Just about the only thing that will kill a mother-in-law’s tongue is overwatering. It thrives best in small pots with crowded rhizomes, and has few pest or disease problems.

It’s not necessary to fertilize snake plants often. But if you feel like giving your plant a boost, use a half dilution of houseplant food, like this one from Miracle-Gro, once a month during the growing season.

These hard-to-kill houseplants can clean the air and enhance your home with their tropical beauty. Spread the love by propagating snake plants and give your friends and neighbors a special treat.

Frequently Asked Questions

If there was a prize for the easiest plant to grow, snake plant would certainly be one of the frontrunners. Snake plant care is very straightforward. These plants can be neglected for weeks at a time, but with their strappy leaves and architectural shape they still look fresh.

Additionally, they can survive in low light and drought and they have few insect problems. NASA research has even shown that snake plants are able to remove toxins such as formaldehyde and benzene from the air. In short, they are the perfect houseplants.

The snake plant is an appealing houseplant with many sizes from which to choose. This species is primarily known for its rosette or upright foliar form, often with variegation and enticing colors. While the plant has traditionally been categorized as Sansevieria, it is now recognized as belonging to Dracaena. But no matter the name, these gorgeous plants offer vertical appeal and foliar excitement. Let’s take a look at how to care for these low-maintenance houseplants in your home.

Quick Snake Plant Facts

Snake Plant Benefits

There are a few benefits of growing a snake plant in your home. It is a striking and attractive foliage plant with tall, striped, sword-shaped leaves. Snake plant care indoors is very easy, making this hard-to-kill houseplant a great choice for beginners. These are reasons enough to get one, but as a bonus, snake plants have also been found to purify indoor air.

Snake Plant Care Essentials

Snake Plant Care

Despite the snake plant’s easy-going nature, there are still some basics you need to know to keep yours looking its best. Here’s how to care for snake plants, including light, water, and soil requirements, popular varieties, and answers to some of the most common questions.

Soil Requirements

Since the snake plant is a succulent, a succulent potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro, is the ideal growing medium. You can also use any good potting soil, like Miracle-Gro's regular indoor plant mix, provided there are plenty of drainage holes in your container. Also, be sure to choose a pot that is wide enough to be stable. As a snake plant grows taller, it can become top heavy.

A snake plant grown in potting soil will not need watering as frequently as one in a succulent mix. Make sure the potting soil has perlite and some other organic elements.

Light Requirements

Dracaena trifasciata is one of the most common snake plant varieties. Also known as mother-in-law’s tongue, this is a variegated form which needs a bit more light than solid green snake plants. In low light, the leaves may begin to revert to green.

For most other varieties, the best light for a snake plant is dappled or filtered light. It should receive two to four hours per day of bright light, such as the morning sun or indirect afternoon light. The rest of the day, it will do fine in shade or low, indirect light.

If you’re growing a snake plant outdoors in summer, provide shade during the hottest part of the day.

Transplanting

Snake plants thrive in confined spaces. In the wild they are snuggled up in rocky crevasses for their whole life. As you learn how to care for your plant, you will discover repotting snake plants is only necessary every two to three years. And this is only to freshen the soil.

Most of the time your snake plant will not need a larger container, as they like to be root bound. When it has produced enough leaves that are crammed around the edge of the pot, it is time for either a larger vessel or time to divide the plant.

Watering

Although it may not look like it, the snake plant is a succulent. This means it is drought tolerant once established. In the home, it needs to receive moderate moisture.

Water regularly during the growing season from spring to fall, but take care to avoid overwatering snake plants. These plants will not tolerate standing water or soggy soil, which can lead to root rot. It’s best to let the soil dry out between waterings.

During winter it is only necessary to water the plant once every month or two. This is because the plant is dormant and not actively growing. Resume regular watering when outdoor temperatures begin to warm in March.

Temperature & Humidity

The optimum temperature range for snake plants is between 60-75°F (16-24°C). Do not situate your plants near drafty windows or doors.

Unlike many houseplants that need high humidity because they come from jungle-type environments, snake plants can tolerate less humid air because they evolved in a drier climate. This is part of what makes caring for snake plants so simple.

Snake plants prefer humidity levels between 30 and 50 percent. This is quite easy to do in the winter home where heating systems tend to dry the air.

Fertilizing

In their native range, snake plants grow in poor soil. So they don’t need much fertilizer. During the growing season use a balanced fertilizer, diluted by half, once per month. An indoor plant fertilizer, like this one from Miracle-Gro, is a good choice.

Do not fertilize snake plants in the fall and winter months. You might also use a granular time release food, like this organic option from Burpee, in early spring that will gently feed your plant during the warmer months as it begins to grow again.

Pruning

Old leaves will die over time and can be snipped out near the base of the plant to make room for new foliage. When pruning snake plants, always use sharp, clean pruning shears to avoid any injury to the plant. Pro gardeners swear by these Felco pruners for precise cuts.

Outdoor Snake Plant Care

When grown outdoors in its native range, a snake plant can reach up to 4 feet (1.2 m) and produce flowers and berries. As a houseplant, though, it won’t grow much taller than 2 feet (0.6 m), and you will likely never see any snake plant flowers.

To grow a snake plant outdoors year-round, they require a tropical climate. If you live in USDA zones 9-11, it's possible. But for everyone else who lives in a cooler climate, you can move snake plants outdoors in spring and summer. Place them in a location with some dappled light much of the day.

Then when temperatures begin to drop in fall, bring your houseplants back indoors for the winter.

Snake Plant Varieties

There are around 70 different species of snake plant, however, not all are available for household cultivation. All are native to tropical and sub-tropical regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia. They are all evergreen and there are mini snake plant varieties that can grow anywhere from 8 inches (20 cm) tall all the way up to giant ones that can reach 12 feet (3.5 m) high.

One of the most common snake plant varieties grown as a houseplant or in the landscape is Dracaena trifasciata, often known as mother-in-law’s tongue. There are a few completely green snake plants but most bear striking markings. Plants also come in hues of grayish green, gold, cream, and variations of these tones.

If you’d like something a little different, the following species and cultivars are worth looking out for:

• ‘Laurentii’ – This cultivar has attractive yellow bands at the edges of its green leaves.
• ‘Moonglow’ – This variety has a silvery green color and lacks the stripes of other varieties.
• ‘Golden Hahnii’ – The Hahnii snake plant, also known as the bird's nest snake plant, has short leaves with yellow borders.
• ‘Twist’ – As the name suggests, this cultivar has twisted leaves. It is also striped horizontally, has yellow variegated edges, and grows to about 14 inches (35.5 cm) tall.
• ‘Bantel’s Sensation’ – This white snake plant cultivar grows to around 3 feet (91 cm) tall and has narrow leaves with white vertical stripes.
• Cylindrical Snake Plant (Dracaena angloensis) – The cylindrical snake plant has tube-like, dark green striped leaves and can grow to 2 to 3 feet (61 to 91 cm).
• Rhino Grass (Dracaena desertii) – This one grows to around 12 inches (30 cm) with succulent, red-tinted leaves.

Other species of snake plant you might find include Dracaena bacularis, which grows more densely than other species and has narrow, dark green leaves. Dracaena masoniana has wider leaves, more like paddles than spikes. They are green with white and purple variegation.

There are tons of other unique and stunning snake plants available at Lively Root and local garden centers to enhance your collection.

Propagation

The easiest way to propagate snake plants is by dividing. Large, established plants may be divided during repotting. The roots produce fleshy rhizomes, which can simply be removed with a sharp knife and potted up.

To divide a snake plant, tip the plant on its side and gently untangle the roots. Divide the plants into clumps bearing at least three leaves and pot them up. These need to go into a free draining soil. You should divide plants as needed and repot a snake plant every three to five years.

You can also propagate a snake plant in water with a leaf cutting. Cut off a healthy leaf and slice it into three to four inch (7.6-10 cm) sections. Cut the top end into a triangular shape and insert the flat bottom end into a glass of water.

Change the water frequently. When the cuttings have a dense root cluster, pot them up. The most important thing to remember is that they can easily rot, so you need to use a free draining soil.

You can also propagate snake plants from seeds. Soak seeds overnight to soften the hard outer coating. Plant the seeds in cactus potting mix, which you can find on Amazon, in flats and place these in a moderately light area and water regularly until they sprout.

Common Problems

Snake plants have very few issues when grown indoors as houseplants. One of the most common snake plant problems is root rot, which can lead to droopy snake plant leaves. You can avoid mushy snake plants that are plagued by root rot by ensuring good drainage and not overwatering. Let the soil dry out completely between waterings and don’t overwater in winter.

If you grow snake plants outdoors, mealybugs and scale may be an issue. Wipe off these common dracaena pests with a soft cloth sprayed with neem oil, which you can get from Amazon. Snake plants have few disease issues.

Frequently Asked Questions

You can own a mother-in-law's tongue (also known as snake plant) for decades and never know that the plant can produce flowers. Then one day, seemingly out of the blue, you find that your plant has produced a flower stalk. Is this possible? Do Sansevierias produce flowers? If they do, why now? Why not more than once a year? Keep reading to learn more.

Do Sansevierias (Mother-in-Law's Tongue) Have Flowers?

Yes, they do. Though mother-in-law's tongue flowers are extremely rare, these hardy houseplants can have flowers.

What Do Sansevierias (Mother-in-Law's Tongue) Flowers Look Like?

Mother-in-law's tongue flowers grow on a very long flower stalk. The stalk can reach a length of up to 3 feet (1 m.) and will be covered in dozens of flower buds. The flowers themselves will be white or cream colored. When fully open, they will look a lot like lilies. The flowers also have a very strong and pleasing scent. The scent can occasionally attract pests due to the strength of the smell.

Why Do Sansevierias (Mother-in-Law's Tongue) Plants Flower?

While it seems like common sense to be as nice as possible to your plants, Sansevieria plants are like a lot of houseplants in that they thrive on a little neglect. A mother-in-law's tongue plant will produce a flower stalk when it is mildly and continually stressed. This normally happens when the plant becomes root bound. The flowers will not hurt your plant, so enjoy the show. It may be several decades again before you see one again.