There is no doubt Americans love their lawns. Not surprising, turf grass is the most abundant “crop” we grow and water, yet it doesn't provide food or an income. For this and other reasons, homeowners are turning to lawn alternatives. Texas, Arkansas, and other south region gardeners have found success with a variety of native warm-season grasses and plants.

Why Switch to Lawn Alternatives

Instead of growing a monoculture lawn of bluegrass or fescue, many homeowners are switching to more sustainable native plants to populate their yards. These can include low growing grasses or groundcovers, which don't need mowed. It can also mean maintaining a prairie type garden with taller species that ripple in the wind.

Here are the primary reasons why a southern or Texas native lawn is more beneficial to the environment than a monoculture of bluegrass:

• Lawn substitutes use less fossil fuel. Both gasoline and diesel, the primary fuels which run lawn maintenance equipment, are refined from non-renewable crude oil. It's estimated Americans use 800 million gallons of gasoline each year to maintain picture perfect lawns.
• Traditional lawns are pollinator deserts. Traditional lawns are a monoculture and don't provide food for the many species of pollinators which inhabit the natural ecosystem. Without food, populations of these essential insects decline, resulting in a loss of biodiversity.
• Maintaining a green lawn requires irrigation. Estimates indicate it takes about 25,000 gallons of water each year to keep traditional turf-grass green and healthy throughout the growing season.
• Turf grass is expensive to maintain. Americans spend an estimated 30 to 35 billion dollars each year on lawn care. What's more, fertilizers and pesticides needed to maintain a monoculture lawn can result in toxic runoff which pollutes lakes, streams, and rivers.

Alternative to Lawn in Arkansas, Texas, and Southern States

One nice thing about switching to lawn alternatives is that homeowners don't need to do it all at once, or even transform their entire yard. If you want to maintain a grassy recreational area for people and pets, you can.

One good place to start with lawn alternatives is under trees and in shady or low traffic areas of the yard. Here are a few low growing, herbaceous plants which can be used as lawn substitutes:

• Huisache daisy (Amblyolepis setigera) – Native to Texas, the 1 to 2 inch (2.5-5 cm) yellow Huisache daisy flowers are highly attractive to bees and butterflies.
• Winecup (Callirhoe involucrata) – There's no doubt the purple cuplike flowers of this low-growing, mat-forming perennial inspired its name. Winecup is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8.
• Silver ponyfoot (Dichondra argentea) – Perfect for drier gardens in zones 8 to 10, silver ponyfoot grows 4 inches (10 cm) tall and is tolerant of both sun and shade.

Native Grass Lawn Alternative: Kansas and Southern Gardens

Warm-season, native grasses are a good choice for both sunny and shady areas of the yard. Some species like Buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides) are low growing, while other prairie species can get quite tall. For the latter, consider adding hardscaping elements like stone paths and benches. This provides places to walk, sit, and enjoy the garden.

Switching to a mix of native Texas grasses for lawns and gardens creates beautiful landscaping which doesn't need mowed:

• Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)
• Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans)
• Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
• Purple top (Tridens flavus)
• Sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula)

Finally, consider replacing your traditional grass lawn with native sedges (Carex spp.). These close relatives of grass have blade-like foliage and triangular stems. In contrast to traditional grass turf, sedge lawns only need to be mowed two to three times per year. Although there are over 2,000 species of sedges, the following have shown the most promise as lawn alternatives for southern lawns:

• Cedar sedge (Carex planostachys)
• Creek sedge (Carex amphibola)
• Leavenworth's sedge (Carex leavenworthii)
• Palm sedge (Carex muskingumensis)
• Texas sedge (Carex texensis)

Ornamental shrubs serve many purposes in the garden and can bring color, texture, form, flowers, and fruits to the landscape. With so many choices, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. The list below shows some of the best shrubs for Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Louisiana, and Mississippi.

Shrubs can be divided into two groups – deciduous and evergreen. Deciduous plants drop their leaves at the same time each year and remain without foliage for a while (dormancy). Evergreen plants drop a few leaves during the year but are never barren for any length of time. The list below includes flowering deciduous shrubs as well as evergreen shrubs.

Southern bushes can be exposed to many environmental challenges such as heat, drought, and humidity. Given the proper care and correct site for its size, hardiness, and light needs, these shrubs should fare well.

Best Southern Shrubs for Yards and Gardens

There are many more shrubs to choose from that do well in southern climates. Contact your local extension service for more choices. Texas is divided into six different regions, but Texas shrubs represented in the list below are adaptable to all regions.

Flowering Shrubs

• Althea (Hibiscus syriacas) – Blooms prolifically during summer in a myriad of color choices.
• American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana L.) – Lavender flowers in spring are followed by magenta berries (white cultivars available) in late summer that are relished by birds. Yellow fall color.
• Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) – Showy flowers in red, pink, white, or lavender with a variety of height choices; blooms for long periods in summer. Exfoliating bark.
• Chaste tree (Vitex spp.) – Large shrub or small tree. Long lavender, blue, white, or pink spikes cover the tree sporadically from summer to frost.
• Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) – Native oakleaf hydrangea has white cone-shaped flowers that fade to dusty rose, then tan. Panicle hydrangeas have large, white, cone-shaped flowers that fade to pink. Macrophylla hydrangea has the familiar ball shaped flowers in blue, pink, red or shades of purple.
• Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) – Native shrub in standard or dwarf forms with pink or white flower spikes in summer.
• Winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) – Fragrant white blooms in winter when little else is blooming.
• Witch-alder (Fothergilla major) – Native plant with fragrant, white bottlebrush flowers in spring; red or orange autumn color.

Evergreen shrubs

• Aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata') – Dark green and yellow variegated leaves.
• Azalea (Rhododendron spp.) – Many color choices that bloom prolifically in spring. Newer cultivars that bloom sporadically all season are available.
• Holly (Ilex spp.) – Hollies need male and female plants to fruit. Yaupon, Inkberry, Japanese, Chinese, possum haw, American.
• Indian Hawthorn (Raphiolepis indica) – White or pink flowers in April; blue fruit in fall.
• Japanese boxwood (Buxus microphylla japonica) – Tolerates heat and humidity.
• Juniper (Juniperus spp.) – Many varieties and growth patterns are available of this tough shrub. Needs well-draining soil.
• Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) – White, lavender, pink, or red flowers in spring.
• Southern waxmyrtle (Myrica cerifer) – Native to moist sites but tolerates drought. Fruits in fall attract wildlife.

For more information on shrubs for Oklahoma visit the Oklahoma Proven program on the Oklahoma State University extension website. The program began in 1999 and a team of researchers evaluate and market the best plants for Oklahoma gardens.

Taking care of your southern lawn may seem overwhelming at times, but it doesn’t have to be. Choosing the right lawn grass, plus proper watering, fertilizing, and mowing, will go a long way toward ending that frustration.

Not only is a well-cared for lawn attractive and increases the value of your home, but turfgrass can prevent soil erosion, direct runoff into the groundwater stream, provide a cooling effect through transpiration, absorb noise, produce oxygen, and trap carbon dioxide. What more could you ask of a lawn?

Learning the basics of southern lawn care will ease the maintenance tasks.

Southern Lawn Maintenance Guide and Schedule

Establishing and maintaining a lawn consists of choosing turfgrass suitable for your area, soil, and light, then mowing at the correct height, applying fertilizer, and watering deeply when needed. Controlling weeds as they arrive is also part of a lawn management program.

Here are tips to get the most out of your lawn with the least effort.

Grass Seed for Southern Lawns

Lawn grasses are divided into warm season and cool season grasses. Warm season grasses perform best at temperatures over 80 degrees F. (27 C.), and cool season grasses fare best at temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F. (16-24 C.). For Southern gardens, recommended warm season grasses include Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Centipedegrass. For cool season grasses, consider tall fescue, thin-leaved fescue, or in some areas, Kentucky bluegrass. Check with your county extension agent to see which one is best for your soil type.

Choosing a seed depends greatly on the amount of light available to the lawn. No grass seed performs well in full shade, but some grass seed can tolerate partial shade. Bermudagrass has the least shade tolerance, centipedegrass has medium shade tolerance, and St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass have medium to excellent shade tolerance.

If you are battling full shade under a tree or next to a building, consider a groundcover or mulch instead of grass. Groundcovers for shade include liriope, Asian jasmine, mondo grass, holly fern, and mulch such as bark, pecan shell, and pine straw.

Best Fertilizer for Southern Lawns

Fertilizer is important for your lawn to improve its density, color, and recuperative ability. A healthy lawn can reduce weed invasion and is better able to withstand heat, cold, drought, and foot traffic.

Turfgrass requires nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and ten other mineral elements to thrive. Nitrogen is the most important fertilizer for turfgrass since it is used the most and the other nutrients are typically available in many native topsoils. However, deciding how much and what type of fertilizer to use should be based on a soil test. Your county extension offers soil testing as well as other independent labs.

If the P, K, and pH levels are satisfactory, a typical fertilizer program for bermudagrass consists of a May application with a water-soluble complete fertilizer (20-5-10) using 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2), a June application with a slow-release fertilizer of 2 to 3 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2), and an August application with a slow-release fertilizer of 2 to 3 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). If you do not use slow-release fertilizer, more applications would be needed with less fertilizer (June, July, August using 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2), and September using the same as May).

Cool season grasses do not need as much fertilizer as bermudagrass. A program example is to apply a complete fertilizer (20-5-10) in early October of 1 to 1.5 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). In early December, apply nitrogen-only fertilizer of 1 to 1.5 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). In early March, apply nitrogen-only fertilizer, 0.5 to 1.0 pound N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). In mid-May, apply a complete fertilizer (20-5-10) with 0.5 to 1.0 pound N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2).

Mowing and Irrigating

Depending on the type of turfgrass, mowing heights will vary. The recommended heights promote a healthy turf that is better able to withstand foot traffic, environmental stresses, and encourage deep roots. Turfgrasses growing in shade should be cut one half inch (1 cm.) higher than normal. Warm season grasses are cut slightly higher in the fall to insulate the leaf blades against cooling temperatures.

• Bermudagrass is recommended to cut one half to three fourths inches (1-2 cm.) in the summer and one to one and one fourth inches (2.5-3 cm.) in the fall.
• Centipedegrass is recommended to cut 1.5 to 2 inches (4-5 cm).
• St. Augustinegrass is recommended to cut 2.5 inches (6 cm.) in the summer and 3 inches (8 cm.) in the fall.
• Zoysiagrass is recommended to cut one half to three fourths inches (1-2 cm.) in the summer and one to one and one fourth inches (2.5-3 cm.) in the fall.
• Tall fescue is recommended to cut 3 inches (8 cm.) in the summer and 2.5 inches (6 cm.) in the fall.
• Kentucky bluegrass is recommended to cut 2.5 inches (6 cm.) in the summer and fall.

Too often lawns are watered frequently and lightly, resulting in a shallow root system that can’t withstand the heat and cold. It is best to water at the first sign of water need, such as “footprinting” and a blue-gray appearance. Water deeply, i.e., to a 6 inch (15 cm.) depth. You can tell if the water has soaked that far by probing the soil. After a few times you will instinctively know how much time and water is needed to achieve deep watering. Early morning is usually the best time to water so that the grass has time to dry, thereby avoiding fungal issues.

Southern Lawn Weeds

Identifying and reducing lawn weeds is an important part of lawn management. With proper watering, fertilizing, and mowing, healthy lawns can ward off most weed invasions. A certain percentage of weeds is tolerable but plan a program utilizing herbicides for best control when weed problems arise.

Annual weeds complete their life cycle in one year but come back the next year from seed. An example of summer annual grassy weeds are crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail. Knotweed and spurge are examples of summer annual broadleaf weeds. A pre-emergent herbicide will control them before germination in early spring, or a post emergence herbicide will control them after they germinate and are actively growing.

Winter annual grassy weeds such as annual bluegrass, fescue grass, cheat, and downy brome also can be controlled with pre-emergent herbicides applied prior to germination (August to September) as can winter annual broadleaf weeds such as chickweed and henbit. Postemergence control can be applied when weeds have germinated and are actively growing, usually in October and November.

Perennial weeds such as dallisgrass, dandelion, clover, and nutsedge are harder to control because they can come back from underground plant parts. If you pull out a dandelion and the whole root doesn’t come with it, you can expect to see it grow back. Nutsedge needs a pre-emergence herbicide applied in early spring before germination of nutlets. Then in June, apply a postemergence herbicide (organic arsenicals). Dandelions and clover are best controlled in October and November with a postemergence herbicide such as 2,4-D or 2,4-D plus dicamba.

Southern Lawn Care Schedule

Bermudagrass

• January – Postemergence winter weed control.
• February – Postemergence winter weed control. Keep lawn mowed closely at recommended heights. Most winter weeds cannot tolerate close mowing.
• March – Soil test; correct phosphorus or potassium deficiencies or extreme pH levels; postemergence winter weed control; pre-emergence summer annual grassy weed control at the end of month.
• April – Pre-emergence summer annual grassy weed control the first part of month.
• May – N, P, K fertilizer application; postemergence summer weed control; insect and disease control as problems arise; mowing. May is an ideal time to sprig, plug, or sod bermudagrass. Do not apply pre-emergence herbicides in March or April on areas to be seeded.
• June – N application; postemergence summer weed control; insect and disease control as problems arise; mowing; watering.
• July – Same as June.
• August – N application; sod webworm control as problems arise; watering; mowing.
• September – N, P, K, fertilizer application; pre-emergent winter weed control by the middle of month; watering; begin raising the height of cut.
• October – Begin postemergence winter weed control at the end of month.
• November and December – Soil test; postemergence winter weed control.

-Adapted from Oklahoma and Mississippi Extension

The selection of southern perennial plants for the home garden can be influenced by a number of factors. Most notable among these are each species specific requirements for growth. Choosing plants that are able to thrive season after season can be especially difficult for those living in regions with harsh growing conditions. In this article, we will examine several plants which are able to withstand the unique climatic conditions present in the southern United States.

The Southern Perennial Garden

Southern perennial gardens are very unique. While plants in southern gardens will often need to be able to withstand brief periods of cold during the winter, the true test of their hardiness comes in the form of tolerance to heat and ability to grow through prolonged periods of drought. Though this may seem demanding, there are actually quite a few ornamental perennial flowers from which to choose.

Before planting, growers will need to closely observe the conditions in their own gardens. Within the same region, small differences can greatly determine which plants may or may not grow well. Make certain to observe which areas receive the most sunlight throughout the day and whether or not the growing space has any noticeable microclimates. For example, in Texas perennials may benefit from a planting site that receives part shade throughout the hottest portions of the afternoon. Gardeners looking for the best perennials for Kansas may want to focus on soil and specific nutrient requirements for each type of plant. Those choosing perennials for Oklahoma may focus on the creation of more waterwise landscapes, which may account for drier conditions.

Perennials for South Central States

Many hardy perennials for the South are native species. In fact, these wildflowers are known for their ability to thrive under less-than-ideal growing conditions; including poor soil fertility, heat, and high humidity. Native plants are a great choice for gardeners who wish to create naturalized landscapes or that hope to attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Some of the most popular perennial species of this kind are milkweed, rudbeckia, liatris, echinacea, and coreopsis.

Trees and Shrubs

Several varieties of small trees and shrubs will also flourish when grown in the southern growing region. Many of these plants will require very little care from landscapers, and will return dependably year after year. Camellias, gardenias, azaleas, and rhododendron are all classic examples of beloved perennials which have withstood the test of time throughout the South. Various species of evergreen plant will also grow well in the southern United States. Many of which are known for their beautiful glossy foliage, evergreen plantings reward growers with year-round interest.

Ornamental Grasses

Many varieties of ornamental grasses are well-suited for growth in warm weather gardens. Ornamental grasses can range greatly in size and in appearance, but generally follow the same habit. Rapid growth during the summer makes these plants ideal for use in mixed borders among both perennial and annual flowers. Since most grasses require little additional care from growers, they are often a good choice for those looking to create attractive, low-maintenance beds and borders.

Garden pest insects can make short work of your ornamental and edible gardens. So, it is wise to learn who the main offenders are and how to reduce or eliminate their impact.

In this part of the South— Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Mississippi— many pests feed on leaves, fruit, and stems. The Asian citrus psyllid, though tiny and unassuming, threatens every state that grows citrus, not for its feeding damage, but because it can carry and transmit a bacterium that causes the deadly disease known as citrus greening.

Garden experts say to examine your plants at least twice a week. Closely inspect the top and underside of the leaves, as many of the culprits reside there. Especially if you are growing fruits and vegetables, it is important to stop the spread quickly. Some feeding damage on the leaves of edibles can be tolerated but preventing feeding on the fruit is of utmost importance.

Pest Insects in Texas and The Southern United States

While each state has its own share of insect pests, there are several pests that are common to Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Mississippi. They include:

• Stink bugs – Stink bugs can damage many vegetables by feeding on the fruit. Their bodies are brown or green in a shield shape. Stink bugs are most noticeable in late summer and fall. When examining your plants for pests, remove egg masses, nymphs, and adult stink bugs by hand.

• Squash bugs – Squash bugs feed on squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, and watermelons. They look a lot like a stink bug but are longer and more oval shaped. They damage plant leaves by sucking on their juices. Row covers can help protect young plants. Look for any egg masses on the undersides of leaves and remove them. Nymphs and adults can be removed from plants and dropped into a bowl of soapy water.

• Squash vine borers – Squash vine borers are reddish orange moths with black wings that lay eggs on squash, pumpkins, and other cucurbits. The caterpillars then feed on the plant, boring into the stems, eventually killing the plant. Destroy any plants that have died.

• Fruitworms – Fruitworms, such as tomato fruitworms and corn earworms, attack a variety of vegetables by boring into the produce. The moths fly at night laying eggs on the plants. The organic Azadirachtin can help eliminate the pests.

• Asian citrus psyllid - The Asian citrus psyllid, mottled brown about the size of an aphid, can carry and transmit a bacterium, ‘Candidatus Liberibacter asiaticus’ (CLas), which causes the disease huanglongbing (HLB), also known as citrus greening, which is fatal to trees. Control with two products-- a foliar pyrethroid insecticide to knock down visible pests and a soil-applied systemic insecticide to eliminate pests hidden in new foliage.

Following are additional pests and how to control them.

Arkansas Insects

• Scale – Soft scale and armored scale can be a real problem for ornamental shrubs and trees. Soft scales produce a soft coating that can be whitish, cottony, or waxy. Armored scale has a hard cover that hides the insect. They attach to plants and feed on sap, never moving. Heavy infestations can cause yellowing of leaves or leaf drop. They weaken the plant making it prone to secondary pests and disease, which can kill the plant. Treat with horticultural or Neem oil.

• Japanese beetles – This invasive pest can do a lot of damage quickly to ripe fruit and broadleaf foliage. They tend to feed in groups on a variety of plants from June to August. The larval stage of Japanese beetles are the white grubs that feed on lawn roots in early spring. The adult beetle is about 3/8 of an inch (9.5 mm.) long, metallic green with copper colored wing covers and white tufts under the wing covers. In early morning, pick them off the plants and drop them into a bowl of soapy water. If the infestation is severe, an insecticide labeled for their use may be used, but follow the instructions carefully, including how best to avoid desirable insects such as pollinators.

Louisiana Insects

• Blackberry (Raspberry) Crown Borer – A major pest of blackberries, the blackberry (raspberry) crown borer, resembles a yellow jacket because of its black and yellow coloring. It’s two year life cycle includes egg, larva, and pupal stages. The primary canes show wilting or dying of all leaves in May or June, which indicates girdling by the larvae. Dig out and destroy infected canes and roots in late fall or early spring. Insecticidal sprays can be used the first year in mid to late October, then again the following April. Saturate the plants and the soil. To achieve control, the spray must be applied for two consecutive years in both fall and spring. Then apply once a year as a preventative.

• Two-spotted Spider Mite in Strawberries – It is one of the most damaging pests of strawberries wherever they are grown in the U.S., as well as on other ornamentals and edibles. Its feeding affects the size, quality, and quantity of fruits. Uncontrolled infestations can result in the loss of the plants. Mites appear as dark green dots on the undersides of leaves. With a 10x magnifying lens, they are yellow to pale green with a dark blotch on each side. Inspect the plants for nymphs and adults as well as predatory mites. If the number of predatory mites is half as many as the two-spotted mites, you do not need to treat them. If treatment is warranted, use a miticide recommended by your local extension agent.

Mississippi Insects

• Leaf-footed bugs – Leaf-footed bugs are mainly a problem on tomatoes and tomatillos, though they attack most other vegetables. Adults resemble stink bugs with a grayish brown body and white horizontal stripe. Its hind feet look like leaves. Plant early to avoid their high numbers in late summer and fall. Sunflowers can be grown to trap the bugs whereby you can spray them with a contact spray such as pyrethrin. If you don’t kill them, the sunflower will act as a crop, bringing in more leaf-footed bugs.

• Thrips – Thrips are tiny insects that feed on leaves and fruit of tomatoes, peppers, watermelons, and most other garden vegetables and many ornamentals. Several species occur, with the western flower thrip carrying the tomato spotted wilt virus. Look for tomato varieties that are resistant to tomato spotted wilt virus. Reflective mulches are effective in reducing the number of thrips. Also, chemical controls such as insecticidal soap, neem oil, and permethrin may be effective when used as directed.

Oklahoma Insects

• Aphids – Aphids are a common problem in Oklahoma as well as most other areas. The tiny insects, often yellow, green, red, or black, suck juices from leaves and produce a sticky substance called honeydew, which can attract ants and also cause sooty mold. A strong blast of water directed under the leaves will remove many of them. Neem oil or insecticidal soap also can help.

• Leafhoppers – Closely related to true bugs, adults hop or fly when disturbed. Wingless nymphs run when disturbed. Adults are wedge shaped, about 1/8 inch to ½ inch (3 mm. to 1 cm.) long, depending on species. Leafhoppers can be colored yellow, green, gray, or patterned. Neem oil or pyrethrum can help reduce large populations.

Texas Insects

• Sweet potato weevil – The adult is small and thin bodied for a weevil, appearing more like an ant. It is blue-black except for the reddish midsection and legs. The larvae tunnel into the tubers and stems and continue its life cycle within stored tubers. Damaged tubers develop a bad odor and taste. Practice crop rotation and plant sweet potato stock that are weevil free. At the end of the season destroy vines, volunteers, and nearby morning glory vines, which also serve as host plants. An insecticide may be used post-harvest to prevent weevil development while stored, but be sure to wash the potatoes before consumption.

• Bilster Beetle – Adults feed on flowers and foliage of ornamental plants, alfalfa, potatoes, garden vegetables, and other plants. Immature blister beetles feed on grasshopper eggs or are predacious and considered beneficial. However, some species live in solitary bee nests. They should not be handled as they carry a toxin (cantharadin) that can cause blisters. Animals feeding on blister-beetle contaminated feed can become ill or die. Cut alfalfa hay before bloom time to reduce incidence of its contamination. Control of blister beetles with insecticides is not usually needed.

If you are looking for a dramatic yet low maintenance plant option for your landscape in the southern United States, look no further than ornamental grasses. Ornamental grasses for Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and other southern states are a terrific option as they mimic the surrounding prairies and are often adapted to the area. If you are interested in ornamental grasses for Oklahoma and other southern states, keep reading.

About Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses may be native, hybrid, suited for sun or shade, vary in height from low to incredibly tall, and come in a variety of colors and textures. Ornamental grasses are also one of the few plants that can be incorporated into the landscape that give almost year-round interest to the garden.

Ornamental grasses are categorized as either warm or cool season. Their active growth period will tell you if a grass is cool or warm season. If a grass begins to grow in late winter to early spring when conditions are damp and temps cool, the grass is a cool season grass. These grasses also flower in late spring to early summer.

Grasses that begin to grow later in the spring with most growth occurring during the warm, dry summers are warm season grasses. This type of grass likes it warm with ideal temps 80 to 95 degrees F. (27-35 C.) and will bloom in the late summer.

Grasses have many uses in the landscape. Taller varieties can stand alone or make excellent natural screens or windbreaks. Smaller grasses can be planted en masse or in small groupings with or without annual flowers. Both have their place in rock gardens, around water features, and in the native or cutting garden. Many ornamental grasses also do well in containers.

Ornamental Grasses for Oklahoma and other Southern States

There are about 10,000 species of grass accustomed to a variety of conditions which means there are likely plenty for you to choose from. They can be planted almost any time of year but ideally cool season grasses should be planted in the late summer and fall and warm season in late spring to early summer.

Before purchasing ornamental grasses in Texas or other areas of the south, take the time to identify what need you want the grass to fill. Will it be near water features, in sun or shade, container grown, used as a privacy screen, for erosion control, or for restoration? Also look to see if the grass is an annual or perennial for your region.

Dry Shade Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses suited to Kansas areas of light shade include Elijah blue fescue, oat grass, St. Augustine grass, and fountain grass.

For heavily shaded areas choose sedge, sweet flag, bluestem, reed grass, bent awn plume grass, lilyturf, mondograss, switch grass, ribbon grass, northern sea oats, papyrus or paper plant, bottlebrush, woodrush, Hakonechloa cultivars, horsetail, New Zealand flax, or purple top.

Ornamental grasses suited to hot and dry conditions include side oats grama, blue grama, bloodgrass, foxtail barley, oat grass, most blue fescue cultivars, oriental fountain grass, Mexican feather grass, switch grass, big bluestem, sedge, lovegrass, blue lyme grass, ruby grass, feathertop, ribbon grass, and purple top to name a few.

These are just a metaphorical handful of the options available in ornamental grasses for the southern United States. Be sure to do your research and check for annual, evergreen, water loving, drought tolerant, height and breadth, color, self-sowing or invasive, and seasonal interest before committing to a purchase. Your local extension office as well as nursery can help lead you to ornamental grasses suited to your area.

Landscaping with native plants has become increasingly important as more people seek sustainability, as well as low maintenance and wildlife friendly plants. Native plants are well adapted to the climate and soil and provide the food and nesting sites needed by local wildlife.

Native plants have survived for generations without supplemental water, fertilizers, or soil amendments. Many are showy, and provide a natural, pleasing look to the backyard landscape.

Gardening With Native Plants of the South

Whether you are adding native plants among your cultivated perennials, shrubs and trees, or are planting a wildlife garden or pollinator garden, or even a wildflower meadow, here are the best native plants for the Southern gardens of Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Mississippi.

Oklahoma Native Plants

• Amsonia hubrichtii - Arkansas bluestar
• Aquilegia canadensis - eastern columbine
• Asclepias tuberosa – butterfly weed
• Baptisia australis - blue false indigo
• Baptisia sphaerocarpa - yellow wild indigo
• Callirhoe involucrate - purple poppy mallow
• Camassia scilloides - wild hyacinth
• Coreopsis palmata - prairie coreopsis
• Echinacea pallida - pale coneflower
• Echinacea paradoxa - yellow coneflower
• Echinacea purpurea - purple coneflower
• Eryngium yuccifolium - rattlesnake master
• Euphorbia cyathophora - fire-on-the-mountain
• Eutrochium purpureum (syn. Eupatorium purpureum) - sweet Joe Pye weed
• Gaillardia pulchella - Indian blanket
• Helianthus maximiliani - Maximilian’s sunflower
• Liatris pycnostachya - prairie blazing star
• Rudbeckia subtomentosa - sweet black-eyed Susan
• Salvia azurea - blue sage
• Spigelia marilandica - Indian pink
• Symphyotrichum novae-angliae - New England aster
• Tradescantia bracteata - prairie spiderwort

Texas Native Plants

• Acacia schaffneri – Twisted acacia
• Agave americana – Century plant
• Andropogon gerardii var. gerardii – Big bluestem
• Cephalanthus occidentalis – Common buttonbush
• Chamaecrista fasciculata – Partridge pea
• Conoclinium spp. – Mist flower
• Cordia boissieri – Mexican olive
• Gaillardia pulchella – Indian blanket
• Helianthus annuus – Common sunflower
• Hibiscus cardiophyllus – Heart-leaf hibiscus
• Ilex vomitoria - Yaupon
• Lantana urticoides – Texas lantana
• Lesquerella spp. - Bladderpods
• Ratibida columnifera - Mexican hat
• Rudbeckia hirta - Brown-eyed Susan
• Ruellia nudiflora - Wild petunia
• Schizachyrium scoparium – Little bluestem
• Sphaeralcea lindheimeri – Woolly globemallow
• Verbesina microptera – Frostweed
• Yucca treculeana – Spanish dagger
• Zanthoxylum fagara – Lime prickly-ash

Arkansas Native Plants

• Aesculus glabra - Ohio Buckeye
• Amorpha canescens - Leadplant
• Andropogon gerardii - Big Bluestem
• Asclepias tuberosa - Butterflyweed
• Bignonia capreolata - Crossvine
• Callicarpa americana - American Beautyberry
• Castilleja coccinea - Indian Paintbrush
• Ceanothus americanus - New Jersey Tea
• Clematis pitcheri - Purple Leatherflower
• Coreopsis grandiflora - Common coreopsis
• Cornus drummondii - Roughleaf Dogwood
• Echinacea pallida - Pale Purple Coneflower
• Echinacea paradoxa - Yellow Coneflower
• Echinacea purpurea - Purple Coneflower
• Eutrochium fistulosum - Joe-pye Weed
• Gaillardia pulchella - Indian Blanket
• Ilex decidua - Possumhaw
• Liatris punctata - Dotted Blazing Star
• Lonicera sempervirens - Coral Honeysuckle
• Passiflora incarnata - Passion vine
• Penstemon grandiflorus - Large Penstemon
• Ratibida pinnata - Grayhead Coneflower
• Sambucus nigra ssp. Canadensis - Common elderberry
• Viburnum rufidulum - Rusty Blackhaw

Louisiana Native Plants

• Andropogon gerardii - Big Bluestem
• Muhlenbergia capillaries - Gulf Coast Muhly Grass
• Panicum virgatum - Switchgrass
• Schizachyrium scoparium - Little Bluestem
• Amsonia tabernaemontana - Eastern Bluestar
• Asclepias tuberosa – Butterflyweed
• Baptisia sphaerocarpa - Wild Yellow Indigo
• Chamaecrista fasciculata - Partridge Pea
• Echinacea purpurea - Purple Coneflower
• Eryngium yuccifolium - Rattlesnake Master
• Hibiscus coccineus - Scarlet Rosemallow
• Liatris pycnostachya - Kansas Blazing Star
• Oligoneuron nitidum - Shiny Goldenrod
• Physostegia intermedia - Slender False-Dragonhead
• Rudbeckia grandiflora - Rough Coneflower
• Salvia azurea - Blue Sage
• Symphyotichum lateriflorum - Calico Aster

Mississippi Native Plants

• Aesculus pavia – Red Buckeye
• Amsonia tabernaemontana – Eastern bluestar
• Aquilegia canadensis – Eastern red columbine
• Asclepias tuberosa – Butterflyweed
• Asimina triloba – Pawpaw
• Bignonia capreolata – Crossvine
• Callicarpa americana – American beautyberry
• Calycanthus floridus – Caroline allspice
• Catalpa bignonioides – Southern catalpa
• Coreopsis lanceolata – Lanceleaf coreopsis
• Dracopis amplexicaulis – Clasping coneflower
• Echinacea pallida – Pale coneflower
• Echinacea purpurea – Purple coneflower
• Eupatoriadelphus fistulosus – Joe-Pye Weed
• Gaillardia pulchella – Indian blanket
• Gelsemium sempervirens – Carolina jessamine
• Glandularia canadensis – Rose vervain
• Hibiscus coccineus – Texas star hibiscus
• Iris brevicaulis – Zigzag iris
• Kosteletzkya virginica – Seashore mallow
• Liatris elegans – Blazing star
• Lindera benzoin – Spicebush
• Lobelia cardinalis – Cardinal flower
• Lonicera sempervirens – Trumpet honeysuckle
• Penstemon digitalis – Smooth white beardtongue
• Phlox divaricata – Blue woodland phlox
• Polystichum acrostichoides – Christmas fern
• Ratibida columnifera – Mexican hat
• Stokesia laevis – Stokes aster

Besides winter interest and year-round color, conifers can serve as a privacy screen, provide wildlife habitat, and protect against high winds. Recognized for the cones they produce and their needle-like foliage, many conifers prefer the cultural conditions of more northern areas with a high elevation and cold winters. Heavy soils, heat, and drought in the South-Central region are not welcome by the needled evergreens – most of the time.

Conifers in Southern Regions

There are some conifers in southern regions that do well though. This includes Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas. Extra care is required to alleviate environmental stress (such as irrigating conifers in times of drought or hot spells). Applying a thin layer of mulch will prevent rapid loss of moisture and help regulate fluctuating temperatures in southern regions.

By checking regularly for signs of disease, stress, or insects, many problems can be eased before they become serious. Your local extension agent can help diagnose a disease or insect damage. A variety of needled evergreens of varying heights, foliage color, and landscape use are available to gardeners in Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas.

Choosing Conifers for Southern Landscapes

For residential landscapes, it’s important to learn the potential size of a coniferous tree before purchase because many of them are too large for placement near a building or as a street tree. If your heart is set on a certain large conifer, check for a dwarf cultivar in that species. 

Below are recommended needled evergreens for Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas. Due to wide variations in the environment and climate within each state, these selections may perform better in one part of the state than another. Check with your local extension office or nursery professional for more information.

In Oklahoma, consider these conifers for landscape interest:

• Loblolly Pine (Pinus taeda L.) can reach 90 to 100 feet (27-30.5 m.) tall. The native tree needs moist soil with a pH of 4.0 to 7.0. It can withstand temperatures as low as -8 degrees F. (-22 C.). Loblolly pine also does well in Arkansas and Texas. 
• Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa) grows from 150 to 223 feet (45.5-68 m.). It prefers most soils with a pH of 5.0 to 9.0. Ponderosa pine tolerates temperatures down to -36 degrees F. (-38 C.). 
• Bosnian Pine (Pinus heldreichii) generally reaches 25 to 30 feet (7.5-9 m.) in the landscape, but in its native environment, can exceed 70 feet (21 m.) tall. It can tolerate high pH soils and drought once established. Bosnian pine is recommended for smaller spaces and is cold hardy to -10 degrees F. (-23 C.).
• Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum) is a deciduous Oklahoma native conifer that can grow to 70 feet (21 m.) tall. It can tolerate wet or dry soils. It is hardy to -30 degrees F. (-34 C.) Bald cypress is also recommended for Texas. 

Coniferous plants for Texas that perform well:

• Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii) is a smaller tree topping out at 30 feet (9 m.) in the landscape. It prefers acidic, well-drained soil and makes an excellent coastal tree. Black pine is hardy to -20 degrees F. (-29 C.).
• Italian Stone Pine (Pinus pinea) features an open crown without a leader, contrary to the typical cone shape of needled evergreens. The size is a moderate 50 feet (15 m.) tall. Stone pine is hardy to 10 degrees F. (-12 C.).
• Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) is excellent for screening or as a wind barrier. Size can reach 50 feet (15 m.) tall. It produces berries relished by wildlife. Eastern red cedar is hardy to -50 degrees F. (-46 C.).
• Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) is a quick grower to 20 to 30 feet (6-9 m.) and a great option for hedging. Very drought tolerant but dislikes wet soils. It is hardy to 0 degrees F. (-18 C.). It is also a recommended tree in Arkansas. 
• Ashe juniper (Juniperus ashei) of Central Texas is a U.S. native evergreen with a trunk that is often twisted or branched from the base, giving the illusion of a multi-trunked tree. The heights of ashe juniper can reach 30 feet (9 m.). It is hardy to -10 degrees F. (-23 C.). 

Conifers that do well in Arkansas include:

• Weeping conifers such as Cascade Falls bald cypress and weeping blue Atlas cedar can be grown statewide, while the weeping white pine and weeping Norway spruce are better suited to the Ozark and Ouachita regions. They need well-drained, good soil in a sunny location. Pruning is important to establish form. 
• Japanese Yew (Taxus cuspidata) performs best in northwest Arkansas in a shady location. Japanese yew is often used as a hedge. It grows to 25 feet (7.5 m.) and is hardy to -30 degrees F. (-34 C.).
• Canadian Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is a medium-sized conifer that can reach 50 feet (15 m.). Canadian hemlock excels in the northwest region of the state in part to full shade and is hardy to -40 degrees F. (-40 C.).
• Atlantic Whitecedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides) resembles the native eastern redcedar. The fast-growing conifer works well as a screen and tolerates boggy soils. Growing from 30 to 50 feet (9-15 m.), Atlantic whitecedar is hardy to -30 degrees F. (-34 C.).

In many regions of the United States, the arrival of December marks a time of tranquility in the garden. While most plants have been tucked away for winter, there may still be quite a few December gardening tasks for those living in the South-Central region.

Closer examination of the regional to-do list shows that December is the ideal time to prune, plant, and even plan for the next growing season. 

December Gardening Tasks for the South-Central Region

Temperatures in the month of December can vary greatly in this region from one season to the next. Even still, freezing temperatures are not uncommon. It is for this reason that South-Central gardening involves many tasks related to protection from cold. This includes the continued use of mulch around perennial plants, as well as special care for potted specimens.

For those who would rather stay warm indoors, winter planning is a great way to begin preparing for the next season’s garden. This can include sketching new garden layouts, browsing through catalogs or online seed sites, and analyzing the results of soil tests. Early completion of tasks related to garden planning will help to ensure that growers are ready when the weather eventually begins to shift.

December in the South-Central region is also a good time to complete routine pruning tasks, such as the removal of dead branches from trees. At this time, most herbaceous perennials have died back to the ground. Make certain to remove brown leaves and plant debris in order to reduce likelihood of issues involving plant disease in the future.

Other garden sanitation tasks which can be completed at this time include the removal of fallen leaves, compost pile maintenance, and the amendment of growing beds. 

Lastly, December gardening tasks may involve planting. Though much of the vegetable garden may be at rest during this portion of the growing season, now is an excellent time to develop landscape plantings. Trees, shrubs, and bushes can all be planted at this time.

Additionally, many gardeners find that flowering spring bulbs can also be planted after an initial period of cold treatment or refrigeration. Cold tolerant hardy annual flowers like pansies and snapdragons are ideal for bringing early season color to the landscape.

While the beginning of November in the South-Central growing region marks the arrival of frost for some growers, many are still quite busy as they continue to plant and harvest vegetable crops. Learning more about specific November gardening tasks within this zone can help ensure that growers are up to date with their regional to-do list, and that they are better prepared for coming changes in climate.

November Garden Chores

With careful planning and attention to maintenance, growers can easily make use of and enjoy their outdoor spaces throughout the remainder of the year.

• South Central gardening in November will include many tasks that need to be completed in the edible garden. Both herbs and vegetables are likely to continue producing at this time. While plants sensitive to cold may need to be covered and protected from occasional frosts, hardy vegetables will continue to be harvested and planted in succession. Perennial plants that are frost tender may need to be moved indoors at this time, well before any chance of freezing weather has arrived.
• As the weather continues to cool, it will be important to take steps in order to prepare flowering shrubs and other perennials for the coming winter. This process includes the removal of any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage from the garden. Mulching with leaves or straw may be required in order to protect more delicate species from winter winds and drops in temperature.
• November garden chores in flower beds will also include the planting of winter hardy annual flowers. Since these types of flowers prefer to grow under cooler conditions, fall planting is ideal for early bloom in late winter or spring. Popular hardy plants for South Central gardening include pansies, snapdragons, bachelor’s buttons, poppies, and many more.
• November is also the time to finish planting any spring blooming flower bulbs. Some types, like tulips and hyacinths, may require chilling before planting. Beginning the chilling process in November will help to ensure ample exposure to cold temperatures before bloom in spring.
• No regional to-do list would be complete without tasks related to garden cleanup and preparation for the next growing season. As the leaves begin to fall, many consider November to be an ideal time to focus on composting. The removal of old, dried plant material from garden beds at this time is likely to help reduce the occurrence of diseases as well as insect presence in subsequent seasons.
• November is also a good time to finish cleaning garden tools before they are moved into storage. Items which may be damaged by freezing temperatures, such as garden hoses, should also be stored at this time. 

The beginning of fall often marks a time when the focus begins to shift away from the garden and outdoor chores. Many find themselves beginning to decorate for upcoming seasonal holidays, and spending more quality time with family and friends. However, the arrival of pleasant cooler temperatures does not mean there isn’t anything left to do in the vegetable garden and/or flower beds.

Learning more about regional gardening tasks and creating an October to-do list can help growers stay focused, even as the activity in the yard begins to slow.

South Central Gardens in Fall

October can be one of the most enjoyable months for gardening. Without the heat and humidity of summer, growers may find a sudden renewed interest in working outdoors. While gardening in fall often does not consist of too much planting and seed sowing, there are some crops that will continue to thrive late into the season.

Cool season plants such as spinach, lettuce, and kale will all continue to produce throughout the month of October. During this time, those gardening in fall should also complete planting tasks related to cool season hardy annual flowers like pansies, bachelor’s buttons, snapdragons, and more.

As the warm season crops come to a close, do not forget to complete harvests of tomatoes, pumpkins, and melons.

The October to-do list will also consist of pruning and maintenance of perennial flowering plants and shrubs. Many herbaceous herbs and flowers can be cut back at this time in preparation for winter. In doing so, always make certain to remove all plant debris from the garden in order to discourage issues related to pests and disease.

Depending upon the plant, this month may also be the ideal time to divide and transplant flowers which have become too large.

South central regional gardening tasks will also include attention to bulb care. Now will be the time to lift and store tender flowering bulbs like caladium, elephant’s ear, dahlias, etc. Spring blooming bulbs and roots may be planted in October in most areas. These plants include tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, peonies, and more.

Growers that have not yet had their first frost will now need to consider bringing tender and tropical houseplants back indoors for winter. As the temperatures cool, many potted plants may begin to struggle and show signs of stress. Whether overwintering small cuttings or full-sized specimens, taking proper care of houseplants at this time will be essential to their well-being.

Wildlife in South Central states brings a mixture of game animals, game birds, furbearers, and other mammals. Through wide-ranging habitats, one might see white-tailed or mule deer, bison, Proghorn antelope, desert bighorn sheep, American black bears and brown bears, mountain lions, and bobcats.

However, gardeners living in urban areas are likely to see more common animals native to southern regions such as squirrels, rabbits, bats, and raccoons. Let’s learn more about animals native to South Central U.S.

Common Animals in Southern Gardens

There are plenty of native backyard animals in Southern gardens. Here are a few:

• Rabbits - Gardeners often see cottontail rabbits in their yards. The eastern cottontail has long fur which is usually gray or brown. Its most distinguishing feature is the white on its underside and tail.
• White-tailed deer – Those who live on the edge of town or near a forest may be visited by white-tailed deer, common throughout much of the United States. Many plants are labeled deer-resistant for gardeners who are concerned about deer browsing.
• Bats – Many urban dwellers erect bat houses in hopes of attracting the mosquito-eating mammals to their yards. Mexican free tailed bats, big brown bats, pallid bats, and eastern pipistrels are just a few of the bats indigenous to the South Central U.S.
• Squirrels – The Eastern Gray squirrel is brownish or gray in color with lighter underparts and a bushy tail. Its medium size averages 1.5 pounds (0.5 kg.). The Eastern Fox squirrel has yellowish to orange coloration with yellow to orange underparts and averages up to 2.5 pounds (1 kg.), larger than the gray squirrel. 
• Skunks – While the striped skunk generally has a bad name, it consumes beetles and mice in gardens. Black with large, white stripes on its back, the striped skunk makes its home in most habitats in the U.S. and Canada.
• Song birds and others – While not considered mammals, song birds are prevalent among South Central wildlife. The surroundings, i.e., wooded area, open country, open with scattered trees, will determine which birds will visit. For example, eastern bluebirds inhabit open areas while woodpeckers, such as Downy, Hairy, Red-bellied and Red-headed, prefer forest openings and edges. Common backyard birds include blue jays, cardinals, chickadees, juncos, titmice, nuthatches, gold finches, house finches, mockingbirds, robins, thrashers, catbirds, and wrens. Owls such as screech and barred types seek forest surroundings.
• Hummingbirds – One of the most beloved creatures, hummingbirds pollinate plants, eat small insects and bring enjoyment to those who attract them with hummingbird feeders and nectar plants. The most common hummingbird in Southern gardens is the Ruby-Throated hummingbird. During the fall migration, there are sightings of the Broad Tailed and Rufous hummingbirds. Those in west Texas might be lucky enough to see the Black Skinned hummingbird. Texas and Oklahoma gardeners may see the rare Green Violet-Eared hummingbird, whose presence is noted in only six other states.

Other mammals that may visit South Central gardens include:

• Virginia opossum
• Nine banded armadillo
• Kangaroo rat
• Pocket mouse
• Pocket gopher
• Prairie and woodland vole
• Eastern mole
• Red fox and gray fox
• Raccoon
• Beaver
• Wild boar

Who doesn’t love to linger under a shade tree in the yard or sit a spell with a glass of lemonade? Whether shade trees are chosen as a place for relief or to shade the house and help lower electric bills, it pays to do your homework.

For example, large trees should be no closer than 15 feet (5 m.) from a building. Whatever tree you are considering, find out if diseases and pests are frequent issues. It is very important to know the height of the mature tree to be sure placement is correct. Also, be sure to watch out for those power lines! Below are recommended shade trees for South Central states-- Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas.

Shade Trees for Southern Regions

According to university extension services, the following shade trees for Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas are not necessarily the best or the only trees that will do well in these regions. However, research has shown these trees perform above average in most areas and work well as southern shade trees.

Deciduous Trees for Oklahoma

• Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
• Lacebark Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
• Common Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis)
• Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
• Golden Raintree (Koelreuteria paniculata)
• Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)
• Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
• River Birch (Betula nigra)
• Shumard Oak (Quercus shumardii)

Texas Shade Trees

• Shumard Oak (Quercus shumardii)
• Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
• Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa)
• Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)
• Live Oak (Quercus virginiana)
• Pecan (Carya illinoinensis)
• Chinkapin Oak (Quercus muehlenbergii)
• Water Oak (Quercus nigra)
• Willow Oak (Quercus phellos)
• Cedar Elm (Ulmus parvifolia )

Shade Trees for Arkansas

• Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
• Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
• Pin Oak (Quercus palustris)
• Willow Oak (Quercus phellos)
• Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)
• Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
• Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera)
• Lacebark Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
• Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
• Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica)

The dog days of summer have descended upon the South-Central region. Needless to say, the heat and humidity makes tackling those August garden tasks challenging. Keeping plants watered is a number one priority this month. Here are additional items to round out your gardening to-do list for August.

South Central Gardening Tasks for August

Ready to get those garden chores done? Here are some things that require attention right now.

Lawn

There's no doubt that maintaining a healthy, green August lawn in the South-Central region requires supplemental water. Set the irrigation system to apply one to one and a half inches (2.5-4 cm.) of water per week. Follow local water restrictions to conserve this precious resource. Consider these additional August garden tasks for the lawn:

• Treat grubs this month as these immature lawn pests are close to the surface.
• Mow as needed. Cut in the evening to reduce heat-related turf stress.
• Spot treat weeds but avoid applying widespread weed killer when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.).

Flowerbeds

Water is necessary to keep those annual flowers blossoming this month. Continue to deadhead or trim back annuals to promote fall flowering. Round out your flower gardening to-do list with these tasks:

• It's time to divide those overgrown clumps of irises, peonies, and daylilies to make them more manageable next year.
• Fertilize fall bloomers like mums and asters.
• Take geranium and begonia cuttings to root indoors for winter.
• Clear space in the flowerbeds for fall bulbs. Take advantage of indoor air-conditioning as you research fall bulb varieties. Place online orders by month's end or risk merchants selling out of your selections.

Vegetables

It's prime veggie harvest season in the South-Central region this month. Can, freeze, dehydrate, or donate produce in excess of what's needed for the dinner table. Vegetable plants require supplemental hydration to keep producing. Water deeply, near the base of the plant, to conserve water and discourage weed growth between rows of veggies.

• Planting a fall garden tops the list for August garden tasks this month. Sow fall crops of beets, carrots, and beans.
• Transplant cabbage family seedlings, like broccoli and cauliflower, in the garden.
• Mulch to keep the seedling's roots cool and slow down evaporation.
• Remove determinate tomato vines and other vegetable plants which have stopped producing.

Miscellaneous

Beat the South-Central gardening heat this month with a cool refreshing glass of cucumber-infused water. Simply soak cucumber slices in a pitcher of water overnight in the refrigerator. While you're enjoying this refreshing beverage, scan the internet for other intriguing recipes to cope with those abundant veggie harvests. Once revitalized, you can tackle the remainder of the gardening to-do list for the South-Central region:

• Prune boxwood and yew shrubs this month.
• Trim and shape topiaries.
• Water and turn the compost pile.
• Continue to water young trees and recently transplanted shrubs.
• Check for bagworms and remove their tents.

Vines for the southern region can add a splash of color or foliage to an otherwise humdrum vertical space, i.e., fence, arbor, pergola. They can provide privacy, shade, or cover up an unsightly structure or old chain-link fence. Vines can also be used as a groundcover. The trailing vines, such as sweet potato vine, cover grounds or slopes quickly.

Vines of South Central areas provide nectar, seeds, and berries relished by wildlife. Hummingbirds are drawn to the nectar of crossvine, trumpet coral vine, trumpet creeper, and cypress vine. Below is a list of annual and perennial South Central vines for Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas.

Vines for the Southern Region

There are many South Central vines to choose from, annual and perennial, with different climbing habits which may determine the type of vine you need.

• Clinging vines attach to a support with aerial rootlets, like suction cups. English ivy is an example of a clinging vine. They work well against wood, brick, or stone.
• A twining vine climbs and twirls itself around a support such as lattice, wire, or stems of shrubs or even a tree trunk. An example is a morning glory vine.
• Tendril vines support themselves by attaching thin, thread-like tendrils to its support. A passion vine climbs this way.

Growing Vines in Texas And Nearby States

Perennial vines will return year after year. Certain annual vines, such as morning glory and cypress, drop seeds in the fall that germinate the next spring.

While vines can be low maintenance, ignoring them can result in a heavy, tangled mess. Some pruning is usually necessary for perennial vines. For summer flowering vines, prune in late winter or early spring. If the vine blooms in spring, it most likely is blooming on old wood (previous season’s buds), so prune them immediately after flowering. 

Vines for Oklahoma:

• Black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata)
• Cup and saucer vine (Cobaea scandens)
• Moonflower (Calonyction aculeatum)
• Morning glory (Ipomoea purpurea)
• Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
• Scarlet runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus)
• Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas)
• Clematis (Clematis spp.)
• Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata)
• Everlasting Pea (Lathryus latifolius)
• Rose, Climbing (Rosa spp.)
• Passion fruit (Passiflora spp.)
• Coral or Red Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

Vines for Texas:

• English Ivy (Hedera helix and others)
• Climbing Fig (Ficus pumila)
• Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis)
• Carolina or Yellow Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens)
• Confederate or Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides)
• Cypress Vine (Quamoclit pinnata)
• Potato Vine (Dioscerea)
• Fatshedera (Fatshedra lizei)
• Rosa De Montana, Coral Vine (Antigonon leptopus)
• Evergreen Smilax (Smilax lanceolate)
• Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)
• Snailseed or Moonseed Vine (Cocculus carolinus)
• Common Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans)
• Hyacinth Bean (Dolichos lablab)
• Coral or Red Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

Vines for Arkansas:

• Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens)
• Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata)
• Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens)
• Clematis (Clematis hybrids)
• Common Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans)
• Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides)
• Creeping Fig; Climbing Fig (Ficus pumila)
• Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata)
• Five leaf Akebia (Akebia quinata)
• Grape (Vitis sp.)
• Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)
• Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)
• Wisteria (Wisteria spp.)

With summertime highs averaging in the 90 degree F. (32 C.) range, growing herbs in Texas can be challenging. At these temperatures, plant growth slows down, leaves wilt, and pores close to prevent evaporation. Add the humidity in the eastern part of the state to the arid conditions in the west and it becomes apparent.

Finding heat-tolerant herbs that will grow in Texas climates is the key to success. So let's take a look at some herbs for Texas gardens which will survive this brutal summer weather.

Texas Summer Herbs

• Basil – This family of heat-tolerant herbs includes varieties such as the common sweet basil as well as Genovese, purple, Thai, African blue, and ruffles. One of the best Texas summer herbs, varieties of basil offer a potpourri of flavors, textures, and leaf shapes.
• Texas Tarragon – More commonly known as Mexican mint marigold, this anise-flavored perennial is often used as a culinary substitute for French tarragon. Grown for its yellow bee-loving flowers and durable nature, Mexican mint marigold is a pleasing addition when growing herbs in Texas.
• Oregano – This culinary favorite is both heat loving and drought tolerant as well as delicious. One of the best perennial herbs for Texas gardens, the many varieties of oregano offer different scents, flavors, and textures. Choose one with variegated leaf pattern to add visual interest.
• Mexican Oregano – Known by several names, Mexican oregano is another of the heat-tolerant herbs which survives Texas summers. This Southwestern U.S. native plant is often used in Mexican dishes where its strong aroma adds bountiful flavor.
• Rosemary – Nothing beats the heat like a cool, refreshing glass of lemonade spiced with rosemary leaves. This hardy perennial may need shelter from the frigid winds of winter but will perform well when growing herbs in Texas summers.
• Lemon Balm – For the best flavor, plant this Eurasian native in partial shade and harvest often. Use the citrus-flavored leaves of lemon balm in tea, or to add a zest to salads and fish.

Tips for Growing Herbs in Texas

Cultivation practices can make or break the success rate for growing Texas summer herbs. Try these tips to help your herb garden flourish in hot weather:

• Afternoon shade – most sun-loving herbs require a minimum of six hours of sunlight. Plant herbs where morning or late-day sun meet this requirement.
• Mulch – This protective layer does more than discourage weeds. A thick layer of mulch regulates ground temperatures and conserves moisture, which ups the plant's ability to tolerate heat.
• Water – Regular hydration keeps plants from wilting and prevents heat stress. Water in the morning or late evening for best results.

Finally, resist the urge to plant Texas summer herbs in containers. Pots and planters dry out too quickly in 90 degree F. (32 C.) heat. Instead, plant outside herbs for Texas gardens directly in the ground. If you must container garden, keep the herbs inside the air-conditioned house where they can enjoy the sun from a bright window.

Time flies by when we’re busy in the garden, and the summer to-do list for South-Central gardening is no exception. As the June days heat up, try to schedule your gardening tasks in early morning or later in the afternoon. This is easier on both you and your plants. Get the trimming, weeding, and harvesting done first thing each morning.

June Garden To-do List

Planting the rest of your warm season veggies (corn, peppers, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc.) might be at the top of your list. By this time, the soil is normally warmed so they should grow readily. If these aren’t already planted, try to get them planted during the first week of the month.

Other things to do this month include:

• Deadhead annual flowers to encourage more blooms.
• Trim shrubs when flowers fade.
• Cut back early flowering spring bulbs when foliage has browned.
• Thin seedlings for recently planted crops, being careful not to disturb the roots of those you are leaving to grow.
• Intersperse flower seeds among new plantings to attract beneficial insects.
• Check mulch and replenish as needed.
• Adjust watering when rainstorms slow. Crops need less water provided when it rains, so keep an eye on the forecast.
• Seed in warm season grass by the end of the month.
• Fertilize established lawns with warm season grass in June.

Dealing with Weeds and Pests in the South-Central Region

No matter how we’ve prepared, it would be quite unusual if June gardening tasks didn’t include dealing with some type of weed and damaging bug. If you’ve planted a pollinator garden, blooms may be starting to help attract beneficial insects to combat pest damage.

Learn to recognize these helpful flies, spiders, beetles, lacewings, and true bugs. Avoid spraying an area where good bugs have started to arrive. Leave some pests for their food supply. Parasitic insects, like the wasps, lay eggs inside of bad bugs to demolish them. Make them feel at home with patches of bare ground and a few dead leaves for shelter.

Hand pick pests when possible and drop into a bucket of water. Use a beer trap in the ground for slugs and snails. Birds and bats are helpful as pollinators and eat some insect pests. Attract bats and night-flying birds with evening and night flowering blooms.

Keep your garden and lawn healthy to avoid pest attacks. Get rid of weeds, especially those in the garden competing with your harvest plants. Some weeds harbor pests and disease. Learn to recognize those such as field bindweed, yellow nutsedge, Johnson grass, quackgrass, and Canadian thistle.

Vegetable gardeners in Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, and Louisiana are quick to share their tomato growing tips they learned from the School of Hard Knocks. Experience teaches them which varieties are best in the heat, when to start tomato transplants, how often to water, when to fertilize and what to do about pests and diseases. Keep reading to learn more about tomato growing in southern regions like this.

Southern Tomato Gardening

Successful tomato growing in southern regions depends a lot on the weather. They have a short season for growing tomatoes – from last frost to heat of summer. Once temperatures reach 85 degrees F. (29 C.) during the day and mid 70's (21 C.) at night, tomato plants will start aborting the flowers.

To combat the short season, it’s recommended that gardeners start their seeds earlier than usual, at about 10 weeks before the last average frost date. Then as the transplants grow indoors, transfer them into increasingly larger containers. When it is time to plant outside, gardeners should have gallon-pot-size tomatoes ready to bear fruit.

Alternatively, buy transplants early from eager garden centers and keep them growing indoors till last frost date arrives.

Soil Preparation

Always buy varieties with disease resistance. In a short growing season, the less disease to deal with, the better.

Before planting outside, it’s very important to have your site prepared. It should be in full sun, at least six hours a day, with good drainage and well amended soil. If possible, obtain a soil test from the local cooperative extension group and correct any deficiencies. The pH should be between 5.8 and 7.2. Soil temperature should be above 60 degrees F. (16 C.).

If the drainage is less than ideal, raised beds will work or mound up the soil 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.). Place transplants deeper into the soil than they were in the pot, close to lower leaves. If transplant is spindly, lay the lower part on its side beneath the soil. Add a tomato cage or spike to support the plant and fruit.

Mulch plants with organic material such as hay, compost, or leaves to reduce weeds, improve moisture retention and eliminate crusting of soil.

Water and Fertilizer

Consistent and ample watering of one inch a week (2.5 cm.) can help prevent cracking and blossom end rot. Water every two to four days to keep soil moist but not soggy. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation system will help prevent foliar diseases brought on by overhead watering.

Tomatoes are heavy feeders so plan to fertilize several times till plants mature. Start at planting time with 1 to 2 pounds (0.5-1 kg.) of 10-20-10 garden fertilizer per 100 square feet (9.29 sq. m.) or 1 tablespoon (15 ml.) per plant. When the first fruits are one-third grown, side dress with 3 pounds (1 kg.) per 100 foot (30.5 m.) rows or 2 tablespoons (30 ml.) per plant. Apply the second application two weeks after first ripe fruit and again one month later. Carefully work fertilizer into soil then water well.

Pests and Diseases

Prevention is the best medicine when it comes to pest and disease control. Be certain plants have adequate spacing for good air circulation. Examine the plants at least once a week to look for signs of pests or disease. Catching them early is the best defense.

Copper sprays can ward off several fungal and bacterial diseases such as septoria leaf spot, bacterial spot, anthracnose, and gray leaf mold.

Reduce the numbers of mites and aphids by aiming a spray of water toward the leaves from beneath the foliage. Insecticidal soap can also be used on aphids as well as young caterpillars. Stink bugs can be knocked into a bucket of soapy water.

Be aware of diseases to watch out for that can be identified with an online fact sheet from your states’ university extension service.

Choosing Tomatoes in Texas And Surrounding States

Due to the short season, it is recommended to buy small to medium size transplants and those that have shorter days to mature. The larger sized tomatoes will take a longer time to grow. By choosing determinate tomatoes, which produce an abundance of tomatoes in one harvest, you will be finished tomato gardening before the dog days of summer. If you want tomatoes all summer, also plant indeterminate varieties, which produce till frost.

Recommended varieties include Celebrity (determinate) and Better Boy (indeterminate) for red fruit. For containers, Lizzano matures in 50 days. For small fruits, Super Sweet 100 and Juliette are dependable.

New heat tolerant tomato plants that set fruit above 90 degrees F. (32 C.) arrive every year, so it’s best to consult the local garden center or extension office for the latest hybrids. You should still find these heat tolerant varieties available:

• Heatwave II
• Florida 91
• Sunchaser
• Sunleaper
• Sunmaster
• Heatmaster
• Solar Fire

Growing fruit trees in the home garden is an increasingly popular hobby in the South. Plucking lush, ripe fruits from a tree in the backyard is very satisfying. However, the project should not be taken lightly. Growing fruit trees requires careful planning, preparation, and execution. The plan should include a regularly scheduled fertilizing, spraying, irrigating, and pruning program. Those who choose not to spend the time on fruit tree care will be disappointed in the harvest.

Where to Plant Fruit Trees

Site selection is critical to the success of fruit tree production. Fruit trees require full sun but will tolerate part shade; however, fruit quality will be diminished.

Deep, sandy loam soils that drain well are best. For heavy soils, plant fruit trees in raised beds or on berms built up to improve drainage. For those with a limited garden area, small-sized fruit trees can be planted amongst ornamentals. 

Eradicate weeds in the planting area the year before it is time to plant trees. Perennial weeds such as Bermuda grass and Johnson grass compete for nutrients and moisture with young fruit trees. Keep weeds at bay, especially the first few years, as trees become established.

Southern Fruit Tree Varieties

Choosing fruit trees for South Central states also takes some planning. Determine the kind of fruit you want and how many cultivars and quantities of each you will need. Many fruit tree flowers need pollen from a second cultivar of the type of fruit you are growing in order for pollination to occur. This is called cross-pollination. Some fruit cultivars are self-fertile, which means they produce the pollen on their own trees to set fruit.

It’s also important in the South to be aware of chilling requirements for the fruit you would like to grow. Fruits need a certain number of cold winter hours between 32- and 45-degrees F. (0-7 C.) for sufficient dormancy.

Choose disease-resistant varieties as well as heat tolerant. Southern fruit tree varieties for the South-Central states of Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas that have been researched and tested for the home garden are listed below.

Oklahoma Fruit Tree Varieties

Apple

• Lodi
• McLemore
• Gala
• Jonathan
• Red Delicious
• Liberty
• Freedom
• Arkansas Black
• Golden Delicious
• Braeburn
• Fuji

Peach

• Candor
• Sentinel
• Redhaven
• Reliance
• Ranger
• Glohaven
• Nectar
• Jayhaven
• Cresthaven
• Autumnglo
• Ouachita Gold
• White Hale
• Starks Encore
• Fairtime

Nectarine

• EarliBlaze
• Redchief
• Cavalier
• Sunglo
• RedGold

Plum

• Stanley
• Bluefre
• President
• Methley
• Bruce
• Ozark Premier

Cherry

• Early Richmond
• Kansas Sweet
• Montmorency
• Northstar
• Meteor
• Stella

Pear

• Moonglow
• Maxine
• Magness

Persimmon

• Early Golden
• Hachiya
• Fuyugaki
• Tamopan
• Tanenashi

Fig

• Ramsey
• Brown Turkey

Recommended Varieties for East Texas

Apples

• Red Delicious
• Golden Delicious
• Gala

Apricots

• Bryan
• Hungarian
• Moorpark
• Wilson
• Peggy

Figs

• Texas Everbearing (Brown Turkey)
• Celeste

Nectarines

• Armking
• Crimson Gold
• Redgold

Peaches

• Springold
• Derby
• Harvester
• Dixieland
• Redskin
• Frank
• Summergold
• Carymac

Pears

• Kieffer
• Moonglow
• Warren
• Ayers
• Orient
• LeConte

Plums

• Morris
• Methley
• Ozark Premier
• Bruce
• All-Red
• Santa Rosa

Fruit Trees for North Central Texas

Apple

• Red Delicious
• Golden Delicious
• Gala, Holland
• Jerseymac
• Mollie's Delicious
• Fuji
• Granny Smith

Cherry

• Montmorency

Fig

• Texas Everbearing
• Celeste

Peach

• Bicentennial
• Sentinel
• Ranger
• Harvester
• Redglobe
• Milam
• Majestic
• Denman
• Loring
• Belle of Georgia
• Dixieland
• Redskin
• Jefferson
• Frank
• Fayette
• Ouachita Gold
• Bonanza II
• Early Golden Glory

Pear

• Orient
• Moonglow
• Kieffer
• LeConte
• Ayers
• Garber
• Maxine
• Warren
• Shinseiki
• 20th Century
• Hosui

Persimmon

• Eureka
• Hachiya
• Tanenashi
• Tamopan

Plum

• Morris
• Methley
• Ozark Premier
• Bruce

Arkansas Fruit Tree Varieties

In Arkansas, it’s recommended to grow apples and pears. Stone fruits such as peaches, nectarines, and plums are more difficult because of their susceptibility to pests.

Apple

• Ginger Gold
• Gala
• William’s Pride
• Pristine
• Jonagold
• Suncrisp
• Red Delicious
• Enterprise
• Golden Delicious
• Arkansas Black
• Granny Smith
• Fuji
• Pink Lady

Pear

• Comice
• Harrow Delight
• Kiefer
• Maxine
• Magness
• Moonglow
• Seckel
• Shinseiki
• 20th Century

Most people harbor an unnatural fear of snakes, partly because they can’t immediately tell a venomous from a nonvenomous snake. But the threat of a snakebite is low; most snakes only bite when provoked and prefer to retreat if the option is available. Statistics show fatalities from snakebites are fewer than those from bee or wasp stings or lightning strikes. Read on to learn about some of the more commonly seen southern snake varieties in and around the home landscape.

Identifying Snakes in Southern Regions

Learning to identify snakes in your area can prevent undue fear and unnecessary eradication of environmentally beneficial snakes. Even a pit viper is harmless when observed from a distance and left alone. 

Southern snake varieties include the venomous copperhead, coral snake, cottonmouth, Western diamondback rattlesnake, timber rattlesnake, prairie rattlesnake, western massasauga, and western pigmy rattlesnake.

Nonvenomous snakes in the South include the glossy snake, black rat snake, scarlet snake, racer, bull snake, ring-necked snake, brown snake, common kingsnake, milk snake, western ribbon snake, western hognose snake, and common garter snake.

Common Snakes in South Central States

Learn how to recognize snakes in South Central states by consulting field guides available online, in bookstores, and in libraries. Your local extension office can also be a good resource for snakes in this area.

Venomous snakes, particularly pit vipers, share identifiable characteristics – a triangular-shaped head, an elliptical pupil like a cat’s eye, a depression or “pit” between the eye and nostril, and a single row of scales below the vent under the tail. A rattlesnake warns of its presence by shaking the rattle on the end of its tail.

The coral snake is the only venomous snake mentioned above that is not in the pit viper family and lacks those characteristics. Its coloration is its calling card, and to avoid confusing it with similar snakes that are nonvenomous, such as the milk snake, recall the rhyme: “If red touches yellow, it will harm a fellow. If red touches black, it’s a friend of Jack.”

Nonvenomous snakes typically have elongated heads, round pupils, and lack the facial pit. They have two rows of scales beneath the vent under the tail.

Avoiding Snakes

Snakes hide in the grass, under rocks and debris, and lay in wait for prey, so they are easily camouflaged. When outdoors, take precautions to avoid snakes by walking on clear paths where you can see the ground. Only step over logs or rocks if the ground on the other side is visible. When walking in known snake habitats, wear snake-proof leather boots or snake leggings. 

If you wish to avoid snakes in the garden, try to keep the area free of possible food sources and hiding places.

Treating Snake Bites

If bitten by a venomous snake, seek medical attention immediately. Remain calm. Excitability can increase blood circulation and speed the flow of venom throughout the body. Do not apply a tourniquet, ice packs, or make cuts around the bite. If possible, wash with soap and water. In case of swelling, remove jewelry and restrictive clothing near the wound.

For a nonvenomous snake bite, treat the wound like you would a cut or scratch. Keep it clean and apply antibiotic ointment.

Pollinator gardens are a wonderful way to help native pollinators flourish in Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, and Arkansas. Many people recognize European honeybees, but native bees also pollinate agricultural food crops as well as maintain native plant communities that sustain wildlife with fruits, nuts, and berries. Other pollinators include hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths, though they are not quite as efficient as bees.

Honeybee numbers once dwindled due to colony collapse disorder, but all bees are threatened by pesticide use, loss of habitat, and disease. Local gardeners can help by incorporating pollen and nectar-producing trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennials into their gardens.

Attracting Native Pollinators

It’s important to recognize the difference between social and solitary bees when planning a pollinator garden.

Social bees such as European honeybees, paper wasps, bald-faced hornets, bumblebees, and yellow jackets carry their pollen to hives or nests where it is stored as food. If you see one of these nests on your property, treat it with the utmost respect.

Keep your distance and minimize any vibration-causing activity near the hive, such as mowing. Social bees will defend their nest and send out the flight squad who may sting their warning. Social bee hives can be recognized by the steady stream of workers in and out of the nest. However, while foraging for nectar and pollen, they mostly ignore people.

Native solitary bees such as carpenter bees, mason bees, leaf cutter bees, sunflower bees, sweat bees, and mining bees are either ground nesters or cavity nesters. The entrance to the nest may be so small it is hard to notice. However, solitary bees rarely, if ever, sting. Without a large colony, there isn’t much to defend.

How to Help Native Pollinators in South Central U.S.

Nectar and pollen provide food for native bees and other pollinators, so offering a buffet of woody and herbaceous blooming plants from spring through fall will benefit all the pollinators who need those food sources at different times.

Plants that attract South Central pollinators include:

• Aster (Aster spp.)
• Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa)
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
• Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)
• Coneflower (Echinacea spp.)
• Cream Wild Indigo (Baptisia bracteata)
• Coral or Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)
• Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria, C. lanceolata)
• Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)
• Indian Blanket (Gaillardia pulchella)
• Ironweed (Vernonia spp.)
• Leadplant (Amorpha canescens)
• Liatris (Liatris spp.)
• Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
• Lupines (Lupinus perennis)
• Maples (Acer spp.)
• Mexican Hat (Ratibida columnifera)
• Passion Vine (Passiflora incarnata)
• Phlox (Phlox spp.)
• Rose Verbena (Glandularia canadensis)
• Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
• Yellow Wild Indigo (Baptisia sphaerocarpa)

Butterflies and Hummingbirds

By incorporating specific host plants for the caterpillars of native butterflies and moths, you can attract those pollinators to the yard as well. For example, monarch butterflies lay eggs exclusively on milkweed plants (Asclepias spp.). The eastern black swallowtail lays eggs on plants in the carrot family, i.e., Queen Anne’s lace, parsley, fennel, dill, carrots, and Golden Alexanders. Including host plants in your garden will ensure “winged jewels” like this visit.

Many of the same nectar plants that attract butterflies, moths, and bees also bring much-loved hummingbirds to the garden. They especially like tubular flowers such as trumpet honeysuckle and columbine.

Nesting Sites for Native Bees

Gardeners can go a step further and make their yards hospitable to nesting native bees. Remember, native bees rarely sting. The ground nesters need bare soil, so keep an area unmulched for them. Log piles and dead trees can provide nesting sites for tunnel and cavity nesters.

By providing a diversity of native flowering plant material, it is possible to attract many species of South Central pollinators to local gardens.

April is the beginning of gardening season in the South-Central region (Arkansas, Louisiana, Oklahoma, Texas). The expected last frost date is fast approaching and gardeners are itching to get outside and warm up with April gardening tasks.

From lawn care to flower planting to fungicide spraying, there are plenty of chores ready and waiting. Learn more about South Central garden maintenance for April.

April Gardening in the South-Central Region

April gardening begins with lawn care. After a winter with low moisture and cold winds, it’s time for some TLC. As weather warms, more spring annuals can be planted. In Texas and Louisiana, they are moving toward summer annuals.

Here’s a general garden to-do list this month:

• Warm-season lawns such as Bermuda and St. Augustine can be fertilized three to five times during the season, beginning in April. Apply one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. in each application. Only apply two applications on zoysia from midspring to midsummer. Apply only one application on bahia grass. Begin mowing at recommended heights for your region.
• Prune summer-blooming shrubs like crape myrtles, rose of Sharon, spirea, butterfly bush, if you haven’t already. Do not prune spring-blooming shrubs until after they bloom, such as azalea, lilac, forsythia, quince, etc. Evergreen shrubs, such as boxwood and holly, can be pruned from now through summer.
• If you missed cutting back the ornamental grasses, do so now but avoid cutting the new foliage coming up by pruning from that point. Winter-damaged branches and plants that have not begun to grow by the end of the month can be removed. 
• Roses, azaleas (after bloom) and camellias can be fertilized this month.
• Apply fungicides for leaf-spot diseases. Control powdery mildew with early detection and treatment. Cedar-apple rust can be controlled now. Treat apple and crabapple trees with a fungicide when the orange galls are visible on junipers.
• Annual bedding plants and annual seeds can be planted after the danger of frost has passed. Watch the weather in your area for unexpected freezes. Summer bulbs can be planted now.
• If winter annuals are performing well, fertilize them and keep them going a bit longer. If they have seen better days, go ahead and start replacing with warm season annuals that can take a light frost like petunias and snapdragons.
• Cool season vegetable gardening is in full swing. Broccoli, lettuce, greens, and onions can still be planted. Wait till the soil and air have warmed before planting warm-season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, except in Texas and Louisiana where transplants can be planted now.
• Also, in Texas and Louisiana, there is still time to plant bush and pole beans, cucumber, cantaloupe, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, summer and winter squash, and watermelons from seed.
• April gardening tasks include vigilance for insect pests too, such as aphids. Do not spray if beneficial insects, like ladybugs, are nearby. Unless the plant is overrun, there is no need for control.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Winter may be a time for plants to take a rest, but not so for gardeners. There are plenty of winter chores to do beginning in the fall. And if you live in the South Central region in winter, there may be even more you can do, depending on your specific location.

South Central Winter Gardening Tips

Here are some tips in preparation for winter in South Central states:

• After two to three hard frosts, clean up perennial beds by cutting back dead foliage and mulching with leaves or compost. If you prefer, sturdier plants can be left uncut to add winter interest in the garden and give extra protection to the sleeping perennials. In addition, plants such as echinacea, coreopsis, zinnia, cosmos, and rudbeckia provide seeds for goldfinches and other birds in winter.
• Protect plants from freezing by applying a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm.) mulch around shallow-rooted plants such as astilbe, heuchera, and tiarella. Organic choices such as chopped leaves, straw, and pine needles decompose quickly and will enrich the soil by spring. Gravel can be used as mulch for plants that require good drainage or drier soils.
• In late winter, prune shade trees, if needed, and summer flowering shrubs such as crape myrtle and butterfly bush. Prune roses in late winter before foliage leafs out.
• Continue to feed and provide water for winter birds. Clean bird houses before new occupants arrive in early spring.
• Spray trees such as oaks, pecans, and hackberries for gall-producing insects before foliage emerges.
• Fertilize trees and shrubs annually.

South Central Winter Garden Veggies

Depending on your specific climate zone, you may be able to enjoy fresh produce all winter. Check with your local extension agent or local nurseries to find out which vegetables do best during winter in your hardiness zone. In South Central states, hardiness zones range from 6 to 10.

Here are tips for growing vegetables in the South Central region in winter:

• Add compost to your vegetable beds before planting.
• Veggies that do well in southern gardens include beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, carrots, dill, fennel, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, rhubarb, spinach.
• In colder climates like zones 6 and 7, floating row covers, fabric covers, or cold frames can extend the season. Also, start seeds indoors so they will be ready to go outside in spring.
• In zones 8 and 9, many vegetables can be started in January and February such as asparagus, snap beans, lima beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Swiss chard, radish, and potato.

Taking care of chores in winter will give a jump start to spring.

Gardening in the south can be a challenge if you live where the summers are exceptionally warm. Add to that humidity or excessive dryness and plants may suffer. However, once established, many plants can withstand heat, humidity, and drought.

Top Plants for South Central Gardens

When looking for tried and true plants for South Central gardens, don’t forget to include plants native to this gardening region. Native plants are acclimated to the region and require less water and nutrients than non-native plants. They are easy to find in native plant nurseries or by mail order.

Before purchasing plants, know the United States Department of Agriculture’s plant hardiness zone for your area, and check the plant tags for the hardiness zone. The hardiness zones show the minimum temperatures plants can tolerate for each climate zone. The tag also shows the type of light the plant needs for optimal performance – full sun, shade, or part shade.

Here is a list of native and non-native plants suitable for South Central gardens.

Annuals

• Firebush (Hamelia patens)
• Indian paintbrush (Castilleja indivisia)
• Mexican zinnia (Zinnia angustifolia)
• Summer snapdragon (Angelonia angustifolia)
• Yellow bells (Tecoma stans)
• Wax begonia (Begonia spp.).

Perennials

• Autumn sage (Salvia greggii)
• Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
• Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.)
• Iris (Iris spp.)
• Hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp.)
• Indian pink (Spigelia marilandica)
• Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis)
• Mexican hat (Ratibida columnifera)
• Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
• Rattlesnake master (Eryngium yuccifolium)
• Red Texas star (Ipomopsis rubra)
• Red yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora)

Groundcovers

• Ajuga (Ajuga reptans)
• Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora)
• Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides)
• Japanese painted fern (Athyrium nipponicum)
• Liriope (Liriope muscari)
• Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis)
• Perennial plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides)

Grasses

• Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
• Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima)

Vines

• Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens)
• Clematis (Clematis spp.)
• Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata)
• Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

Shrubs

• Azalea (Rhododendron spp.)
• Aucuba (Aucuba japonica)
• Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Blue mist shrub (Caryopteris x clandonensis)
• Boxwood (Buxus microphylla)
• Chinese fringe shrub (Loropetalum chinense)
• Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
• Glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora)
• Indian hawthorn (Rhaphiolpis indica)
• Japanese kerria (Kerria japonica)
• Leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei)
• Mugo pine (Pinus mugo)
• Nandina dwarf varieties (Nandina domestica)
• Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia)
• Red-twig dogwood (Cornus sericea)
• Shrub roses (Rosa spp.) — easy care varieties
• Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
• Smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria)

Trees

• American holly (Ilex opaca)
• Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum)
• Chinese pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
• Prairifire crabapple (Malus ‘Prairifire’)
• Desert willow (Chilopsis linearis)
• Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)
• Kentucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioicus)
• Lacebark elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
• Loblolly pine (Pinus taeda)
• Magnolia (Magnolia spp.) – such as Saucer magnolia or Star magnolia
• Oaks (Quercus spp.) – such as Live oak, Willow oak, White oak
• Oklahoma redbud (Cercis reniformis ‘Oklahoma’)
• Red maple (Acer rubrum)
• Southern sugar maple (Acer barbatum)
• Tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera)

Recommended plant lists also can be found at your local cooperative extension office or on its website.

Fall planting in southern states can yield crops well past the frost date. Many cool-season vegetables are frost hardy and harvests can be extended with the use of cold frames and row covers. Let’s learn more about planting fall crops for South Central U.S. regions.

About South Central Fall Planting

The U.S. has many gardening regions. What and when to plant for southern winter crops vary but typical fall crops for South Central U.S. include frost-tolerant vegetables such as:

• Beets
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrot
• Cauliflower
• Chard
• Collard
• Garlic
• Kale
• Lettuce
• Mustard
• Onion
• Parsley
• Spinach
• Turnip

Frost-susceptible vegetables include:

• Beans
• Cantaloupe
• Corn
• Cucumber
• Eggplant
• Okra
• Peppers
• Irish potato
• Sweet potato
• Squash
• Tomato
• Watermelon

Group those together so they can be removed easily after a killing frost.

Planting dates vary widely in the South Central region. For example, in Texas’ multiple zones, planting dates range from June to December. For recommended planting dates and vegetable varieties, visit your county extension office or their websites for downloadable garden guides. Timing is crucial in when fall planting in southern states, especially those having a number of growing zones.

South Central Gardening Tips

Seed germination can be tough in late summer’s dry, hot soil, so transplants could be a better option to get a jump on the season. If you plan to direct seed, try planting them in soil arranged in furrows. Drop the seeds in the furrow and cover lightly with soil. The higher soil on each side will provide some shade to the seeds and protection from drying wind. Or plant seeds in trays indoors about a month ahead of planting time. Allow the seedlings to harden off by moving them outside into a shady area first, for about a week. Then move them to the desired sunny location.

Make sure the planting site receives full sun, six to eight hours a day, and well-drained soil enriched with amendments. Fertilize with cow or horse manure or commercial fertilizer such as 10-20-10.

Plenty of water should be available when rain is not enough. A drip irrigation system provides water right where it is needed and reduces wasteful runoff.

Young plants can scorch in late summer’s sun, so it may be necessary to cover the plants with screening for afternoon shade protection. Mulch can also cool the soil and prevent excessive water evaporation.

Your efforts will be rewarded with fresh vegetables throughout fall and into the winter.