Some seeds are so easy to grow, you can sow them directly outside where you want your flowers to flourish. And some seeds are so ridiculously easy to grow, you don’t even need to sow them in the ground! All these glorious flowers grow from seed that needs light to germinate, so you can simply toss it onto the soil. Then all you need do is keep the soil watered, sit back and let Mother Nature work her magic.

I’m growing all these flowers in my garden, precisely because they take so little effort, but the blooms are still fabulous. But it gets even better! All these flowering plants happily self-seed, too, so sow them once and you’ll enjoy blooms for years to come. This also means plants will work their way around your garden, all by themselves, to find the Goldilocks spot with conditions that suit them perfectly, where they'll become even more low-maintenance.

I love to see the surprising places these reseeding blooms unexpectedly pop up, and the cottage-garden abundance they bring to my borders. And it doesn't take long to see results – most of these flowers grow incredibly quickly from seed to bloom. And if you ever feel you’re getting too many of any one plant, just snip the flowers before the seedheads ripen, or pull up unwanted seedlings. You can direct-sow all of these fling-and-forget seeds in June but hurry up before the spring window closes! Which one will suit your garden style best?

1. Yarrow

If you like to attract pollinators to your garden, then you seriously should be growing yarrow, also known as Achillea. Its tiny flowers form in clusters, making flat surfaces that bees and butterflies can use as landing pads to access the nectar.

This perennial is such an easy-to-grow, low-maintenance plant in a sunny spot, and is remarkably heat- and drought-tolerant. Once it’s established in your garden, it typically flowers through June and July and, if you remove the faded blooms, it’ll often reward with a second flush in fall. Achillea lasts well as a cut flower and dries really well too, and I hang stems upside down in the garage to use for craft projects. The fern-like foliage is attractive, too.

Because yarrow comes in such varied tones, I like to plant a mix. ‘Summer Berries’, available from Eden Brothers, has dreamy flowers ranging from buttercream through peach to raspberry; ‘Flowerburst Red Shades’ has a stronger palette of rose and scarlet, and is also available from Eden Brothers. Both grow from 2-3 feet tall and are suitable for USDA zones 3-9.

2. Cosmos

I’m a firm believer that every garden should contain Cosmos, as it’s so easy to grow and a single plant can bring hundreds of flowers over a summer. It’s an annual, completing its life cycle in a year but readily self-seeding so more appear year after year – and I always collect a little seed in fall as a back-up, just in case.

There are so many cosmos varieties to choose from, from front-of-border foot-tall dwarf cultivars to airy giants that reach 5 or 6 feet, whose blooms shift like butterflies on a breeze. If you're new to the delights of this easy-grow beauty, then do explore with a few cultivars, such as this pack of 8 pollinator favorites from Amazon. I adore the delicate lemon tones of Cosmos ‘Lemonade’, available from Burpee, which seem to fill my borders with light. I also grow lots of Cosmos ‘Apricot Lemonade’, available from Eden Brothers, which adds pretty pink and apricot splashes among those lovely lemon petals.

Heat- and drought-tolerant, cosmos produce the most blooms in full sun, and will keep flowering all summer into fall as long as you deadhead. They’re suitable for zones 2-10.

3. Columbine

Also called aquilegia, my kids refer to the columbines in my garden as ‘granny flowers’ but I think their nostalgic look is part of their charm. I adore their delicate rounded foliage as much as their flowers, though the blooms are pretty nice too!

Columbines are perfect for those partially shady spots in your garden that get gentle morning sun but are spared searing afternoon rays. They’re perennials and prefer cooler temperatures so grow best in zones 3 through 9, and though plants only live for 3 or 4 years, you’ll never be short of blooms as they self-seed so readily.

There are varieties that range from 6 inches to four feet high, but my forever favorite is Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’, available from Eden Brothers. Its pink and white double blooms are exquisite and last from spring through summer, attracting clouds of butterflies. That this type of columbine was named after Emma Nora Barlow, granddaughter of legendary British botanist and geneticist, Charles Darwin, is neat, too.

4. Strawflowers

After they were used to create all manner of dried flower crafts in the 1970s, strawflowers suffered a fall from favor for many decades. But now they’re back and more popular than ever. New, bigger varieties bring double flowers in a huge range of colors, and it’s so easy to grow a whole load of them with a mix such as this Swiss Giant Mix from Eden Brothers.

I grow Helichrusum bracteatum ‘King Size Salmon’, also available from Eden Brothers, on account of its adorable apricot tone. It’s bigger than most at 3 feet high, and produces lots of blooms on its well-branched stems. I love to run a thumb over its papery petals to hear the satisfying scrunch, and I dry armfuls – there's nothing better to smarten up a Christmas pine wreath.

Strawflowers are very heat- and drought-tolerant so can be grown in zones 2-10. They’re tender perennials so will typically overwinter fine in zones 8-11, but you’ll need to treat them as annuals in colder climates.

5. California Poppies

I sprinkled a packet of California poppy seed in my gravel drive a few years ago and I’ve no idea how the plants survive still, but survive they do. I certainly find Eschsholzia californica far easier to grow than to pronounce its latin name! The classic California poppy, with seed available from Eden Brothers, is a cheery orange. Plenty of cultivars have been bred from it, however, such as the gorgeous yellow ruffles of ‘Yukon Gold’, available from Burpee. At the other end of the spectrum is the quietly elegant ivory petals of ‘Alba’, also available from Eden Brothers.

Reaching 1-2 feet high and enjoying a spot that sees them basking in sunshine all day, California poppies do best in zones 6-10. In milder climates, these tender perennial plants can live for 2-3 years, but treat this as an annual in colder zones. It readily self-seeds so once it’s made itself at home, you won’t be without it.

6. Foxgloves

Most foxgloves are biennial, so you sow them for flowers the following year. But it’s well worth the wait as once Digitalis purpurea is in your garden, this self-seeder will pop up all over. Foxgloves don’t like temperature extremes so do best in zones 4-9, and prefer dappled or light shade as their leaves can scorch in strong afternoon sun. They do need some sunshine to flower well, though, so don’t plant them in deep shade.

There are so many varieties to choose from but ‘Excelsior Mix’, available from Burpee, is a great choice, bringing spires of pastel pink, purple and cream flowers that pollinators love. The sturdy lower lip of the flower makes a good spot for clumsy bumblebees to land, and the tubular shape of the blooms means they’re appealing to hummingbirds and long-tongued moths. Growing to 4-5 feet tall, there’s plenty of nectar to go round, too.

Foxgloves are toxic to humans and pets.

7. Fivespot

These dainty darlings only grow a foot high, but just look at them! With each veined petal accented with a violet spot, Nemophila maculata is as pretty as pretty can be and a must for a cottage garden. Pollinators will appreciate the flowers as much as you do, and though they’re an annual, they readily self-seed to return year after year.

Though fivespot can be grown in zones 2-11, it doesn’t enjoy high summer heat. In June, it’s best to only sow in cooler zones as seeds won't typically germinate in temperatures over 65°F. In warmer climates, wait till fall to scatter seed for flowers the following spring. Similarly, your zone will dictate where this plant flourishes: it does well in full sun or partial shade in cooler climates but prefers to have afternoon shade in hotter areas. This little baby does need to be kept moist to flower well, so a little shade also helps to retain water in the soil for longer, saving you from having to irrigate too often.

Seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

8. Love-in-a-Mist

Also known as Nigella, Love-in-a-Mist is a wonderful plant to have in your garden, not just for the flowers but the fabulous seed pods and feathery foliage. It belongs to the buttercup family so it’s ridiculously easy to grow, and though an annual, self-seeds easily. Grown in cottage gardens for centuries and adored by pollinators, Love-in-a-Mist may be small, growing to just 1-2 feet in a sunny position, but it still catches your eye.

Most are a beautiful cornflower blue but new cultivars have expanded the colors available from blush pink to a deep purple. I’m currently growing ‘African Bride’, available from Amazon, and its white petals highlight its structural central boss, and the inflated seed pods mature to a dramatic purple.

Love-in-a-Mist grows well in all zones.

How to Get Great Germination

The trick to getting good germination with all these flowering plants is keeping the seed moist for the all-important first few weeks. Because they need to be sown on the soil surface, they dry out more easily than seeds sown in the ground. But there are a few very easy ways to make sure they stay hydrated. First of all, clear any weeds from the soil as these compete for water. Next, rake the soil into a fine tilth as this will help the seeds make contact with as much of the moisture-holding soil as possible. A small hand rake such as this from Amazon makes this easy in an already-planted border or raised bed.

Seeds that germinate best on the soil surface are usually tiny, which means they’re easily washed away. So water the ground thoroughly before sowing. For an even sowing, mixing the seeds with a little dry sand makes it simple to see where you’ve sown. But then just fling the seeds onto the soil! Lightly pressing the seeds onto the soil afterwards ensures excellent seed-to-soil contact – but whatever you do, don't push them into the soil.

It really helps to be able to identify the seedlings so you don’t accidentally pull them up thinking they’re weeds. Many folk sow in rows to overcome this, but I prefer a natural look so I simply sow an extra pinch of seeds next to a marker so I know exactly what’s what.

Then all you need do is keep the area well-watered, using a fine spray at first so as not to wash the seeds away, until the seedlings are around 3 inches high, when you can start to irrigate a little less regularly. If you're adding these seeds to borders and raised beds of perennials, you'll be watering anyway now the weather has warmed up, so it’s no extra work.

Spring and garden romance seem naturally entwined. If you are anything like me, you want a landscape overflowing with classic flowers, but without putting in a lot of effort or spending an absolute fortune. In an era where we crave both sustainability and instant serenity, certain heritage self seeding annuals offer a unique thrill. They can give you relatively quick and easy pops of color with a timeless feel – and they can return to your beds and borders for many years, decorating your yard with effortless charm and building a living legacy in your soil.

This is clearly a seductive prospect for romantics like me, in a world where romance can be anything but cheap. These heritage self sowing flowers not only save you money on future seeds, they also save you time spent sowing them again and again, which we tend to think we have to do with annuals and short-lived perennials. April is the perfect time to sow the foundations of a forever garden with self sowing annuals that will pay dividends in beauty for years to come.

Sow once, bloom forever! Sounds too good to be true? It doesn’t have to be. Just grow a heritage plant from this collection, and you can enjoy effortless, timeless color with minimal outlay and effort. If you fancy a garden that plants itself, these 7 self-seeders just get better with age…

Heritage Annuals for Years of Beauty

The term “heritage plants” refers to varieties of blooms that have been cultivated for many generations, beloved over time for their beauty that has stood the test of time. Heritage annual flowers and short-lived perennials are associated with long term value and classic beauty. Most are genuinely unfussy, but they do require a planting spot that mimics their natural habitat. Generally, these self-seeders thrive in USDA zones 3-9, provided they have well-draining soil. Drainage is the golden rule. While they love a spring rain, most heritage seeds will rot in heavy, stagnant clay.

For soil preparation, a light raking to remove heavy debris is usually enough. These heritage seeds don't need deep burial. In fact, many need to stay close to the surface to germinate. Before sowing, just carry out a quick check of your soil using a meter like the XLUX Long Probe Soil Meter from Amazon to check the moisture levels are ok for sowing.

Many of these heritage flowers provide a second season of visual interest, thanks to the structural beauty of the seed pods, stretching your ornamental interest from early spring through winter. To guarantee these heritage picks return year after year, just try not to be too tidy and embrace a little bit of meaningful neglect. Let the flowers fade and those (often beautiful) seed pods ripen and dry on the stem. Once the pods are brown and dry, they’ll shatter, casting their maverick offspring across your beds.

These evocative, self-sowing annuals do so much of the work for you, creating a romantic and enduring display for years to come without any additional work on your part. Just remember, when you see those unplanned green rosettes appearing next spring, don't pull them. Those are your free rewards for a job well done this April!

1. Love in a Mist

Love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) earns its romantic common name with a swath of purple-blue, pink and white puffy flowers, shielded by airy bracts and ferny foliage. This heritage darling is a master of texture, evoking an ethereal look that delicately softens the edges of any garden bed. Classic blue ‘Miss Jekyll’ is the most popular variety, but there are plenty of others in mixed hues. Try ‘Miss Jekyll Double Mix’ Nigella Seeds from Eden Brothers for assorted rose, white and cornflower blooms.

Reaching 12-18 inches (25-40cm) in late spring, growing love-in-a-mist effortlessly knits together taller perennials with its lace-like presence. It thrives in full sun and average, well-drained soil, and is rarely bothered by pests or deer. For a forever garden strategy, sow your seeds in fortnightly intervals through April for a continuous bloom cycle. As the flowers fade, they transform into balloon-like seed pods with purple stripes. These pods are highly structural and look magnificent in dried arrangements, or simply left in situ to provide winter interest for birds.

Nigella makes a wonderful companion for roses or lilies, as its fine foliage masks the less dynamic stems of taller shrubs. It also thrives in containers, provided they are deep enough to accommodate its taproot. Because it resents transplanting, always sow directly where you want it to grow. To ensure it returns, simply leave a few of those decorative pods to dry and pop naturally. You’ll find new seedlings appearing by autumn or the following spring, ready to start the show all over again.

2. Lunaria (Honesty)

This is an unusual plant with a variety of common names, including honesty, moonwort, and silver dollar plants. The latter is especially apt, as this biennial grows light green seed pods that dry to reveal iridescent, translucent discs. These coins have long been a staple of dried parlor arrangements. In its first year, honesty (Lunaria annua) focuses on growing a lush rosette of heart-shaped leaves. In the second year, it erupts into a cloud of four-petaled purple or white flowers that are a magnet for early-season butterflies. You can buy Lunaria Money Plant Seeds from Amazon for a pretty spring flower that evolves into ethereal coin-shaped pods.

April is the ideal time to sow these seeds in partial shade to full sun, as it thrives in cooler weather. While lunaria is hardy in USDA zones 4-9, it prefers dappled light, making it an excellent companion for hostas or ferns. It is notoriously easy to grow and will even thrive in poor soils, though it prefers a moist, loamy base. Because it is a biennial, it’s smart to sow seeds two years in a row. This creates overlapping generations, so you have flowers every single spring from then on. After sowing, you can expect seedlings in 10 days, and quick growth after.

Stems can reach 2 feet (60cm) tall, and the plant reseeds so enthusiastically that it is considered invasive by some. It’s often best used in larger beds or at the back of a border where it can roam. If you want to use the seed pods for decor, wait until the outer green casings turn brown and begin to peel away, revealing the silver honesty within. Leaving these pods in the yard provides a shimmering, ghostly effect through winter months, perfect for a moon garden. For the best results, mix in some organic matter at the time of planting to give those first-year rosettes a strong start.

3. Cup and Saucer Vine

If you need a plant that delivers instant heritage drama, the cup and saucer vine (Cobaea scandens) is a lusty climber that looks elegant yet mysterious. This Mexican native was a favorite in 19th-century conservatories, thanks to its enthusiastic growth rate and stunning 2-inch (5cm) wide, bell-shaped blooms. The flowers undergo a magical transformation, opening in a pale creamy-green and deepening into a rich, royal purple. It’s called the cup and saucer vine because each bell sits atop a large, leaf-like green calyx that looks just like a porcelain saucer.

Direct-sow the seeds in early spring after all chance of frost is past. It can reach 30 feet (10m) in a single season and acts like a perennial in tropical climates, but in most zones, it’s a vigorous annual. It needs sturdy support, though, like a heavy trellis, a chain-link fence, or an old shed. Give this climber full sun to flower well, plus a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote Smart Release Plus Fertilizer from Lowe’s at planting time, to fuel that massive vertical growth. This vine is excellent for creating a privacy screen of decorative foliage in just a few months.

To guarantee self-seeding in warmer zones, let the plum-like seed pods mature on the vine. In cooler northern zones, the seeds may not always have time to ripen before frost, but you can harvest the seeds to start indoors early next year. The pods hang like heavy ornaments among the heart-shaped leaves. Pair this magnificent heritage bloomer with white climbing roses for a romantic, high-contrast display. You can buy ‘Cup and Saucer’ Vine Seeds from Burpee.

4. Flanders Poppies

To me, each poppy is a little drop of summer sun that grows and thrives all season long in your yard. The Flanders poppy or corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas) is the ultimate symbol of resilience. It’s an annual that is so eager to self-seed, you’d think it was a perennial. These annuals are known for their orangey red, paper-thin petals and smudged centers. They bring a wild yet enduring and steadfast energy to beds and borders, swaying on wiry stems that seem too thin to hold such vibrant color.

When growing poppies, bear in mind that these annuals are light germinators, meaning they should not be buried. Scatter the seeds over prepared, well-draining soil in spring. Choose a sunny spot, and press seeds down firmly with your foot or a flat board. They are adapted to disturbed soil, making them the ideal choice for a new garden bed or a patch of yard that’s bare. They are remarkably drought-tolerant once established, and prefer a leaner soil. Too much fertilizer will result in lots of leaves, but few of those iconic flowers.

Their seed heads are structural beauties, with sturdy green (then tan) pepper pots topped with a star-shaped lid. These pods are a staple for dried flower enthusiasts. Let these pods stand until they turn brown and the tiny holes under the lid open up. As the wind shakes the stems, the seeds will pepper the ground for the following year. These are perfect companions for ornamental grasses, creating a naturalistic meadow look that requires zero maintenance. You can buy Country Creek Acres Flanders Poppy Seeds from Walmart.

5. Columbine (Aquilegia)

The soubriquet of granny’s bonnet (Aquilegia spp) emphasizes the heritage nature of this species, but you are more likely to know this plant as columbine. These are the fairies of the heritage garden, with intricate, spurred flowers that look like they belong in a Victorian botanical illustration. They are short-lived perennials, but they function as self-seeding annuals, producing a prolific amount of volunteer seedlings. They handle the transition from sun to partial shade with ease, making them perfect for the middle of a border. Stunning Columbine Seed Varieties from Burpee include chocolatey ‘Swan Burgundy’ and dusky ‘Blue Star’ aquilegia options.

Columbine grows to 3 feet (1m) tall, producing dainty blossoms in late spring and summer. They are excellent flowers for attracting hummingbirds, which reach into the spurs for nectar. They prefer moist, well-drained soils and benefit from a layer of mulch (like Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon) to keep roots cool in summer heat. One special consideration is the leaf miner, which leaves silver trails on the leaves. While this doesn't affect plant health, it might help to plant your aquilegia behind mounding plants such as lady’s mantle to hide lower leaves.

Add a slow-release granular feed once in April to ensure plants have enough energy to produce those heavy seed crops. To ensure blooms return year after year, resist the urge to deadhead. Flowers will fade into green pods that eventually turn brown and split. Columbines cross-pollinate easily, so the volunteers that pop up next year might be a brand-new color combination, adding to the thrill of the find. These are excellent container plants and look wonderful on a shady porch. Pair with bleeding hearts for a duo of nostalgic, spring-blooming classics.

6. Purpletop Verbena

Verbena bonariensis has it all: tall, sturdy stalks filled with lavender blooms that require little to no maintenance and self-sow dramatically. Reaching up to 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5m) tall, but only a foot (30cm) wide, it allows you to plant it at the front of a border without blocking the view of the plants behind it. It acts like a purple haze, floating above the garden and attracting every butterfly in the neighborhood. It is one of the longest-blooming plants, often going from mid-summer through to first frost.

Classified as a tender perennial, purpletop vervain (aka Brazilian vervain) is hardy in USDA zones 7-11 but acts as a self-seeding annual everywhere else. Planted in early spring, this verbena plant fills in flower beds and roams across the landscape. It loves hot, sunny spots and is drought-tolerant once its roots are down. In fact, it thrives in the neglected spots where other plants might wilt. It is also resistant to powdery mildew. It isn't picky about soil, and only demands good drainage.

The beauty of this heritage flower is its ability to weave through a garden. Because the seedlings are easy to identify (just look for square stems and rough, serrated leaves), you can easily move them in early spring to where you want them. To guarantee a forever display, simply let the flower heads turn brown and dry in the autumn. Birds like goldfinches love the tiny seeds, but whatever they don't eat will fall to the ground to start next year’s show. This pretty purple scaffold-style plant is a budget gardener’s dream. One plant this year can lead to a drift by year three. You can buy Purpletop Verbena Bonariensis Seeds from Eden Brothers.

7. Clary Sage

Clary sage (Salvia sclarea) is the grand dame of the salvia family. This bold, structural biennial demands attention. It produces massive, velvety elephant ear leaves in its first year, followed by towering 3-foot (90cm) spikes of lilac, pink, or white color in its second year. The “flowers” are actually colorful bracts (leaves) that surround tiny true blossoms, meaning the bloom lasts for months rather than weeks. You can buy Survival Garden Seeds Heirloom Clary Sage Seeds from Amazon.

This salvia variety has not only provided eye candy since grandmother’s time, the blooms have also provided rich nectar to feed butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. This plant also has a heavy, balsamic fragrance, which you can enjoy from spring through summer. It just needs a sunny spot and soil on the drier side. It is one of the most drought-tolerant plants on this list, making it a true set-and-forget champion for those sun-baked corners of your yard. It’s also highly deer-resistant, and the fuzzy, aromatic leaves are something most grazers will happily avoid.

These colorful bracts maintain their hue even as they dry on the stalk. Let these tough beauties go to seed for effortless flowers the following spring. If you leave the tall stalks standing through the winter, they provide a striking silhouette in the snow and drop hundreds of seeds for the following year. It looks magnificent when paired with the silver foliage of lamb's ears or the bright orange of Flanders poppies for a high-impact, low-water heritage bed. Just use your soil meter to ensure you aren't overwatering, as clary sage prefers a minimal watering schedule.

Shop Stunning Heritage Seeds

Even the quietest corners of your yard can become the focal point for dazzling bursts of heritage color. By choosing self-seeders that have spent centuries perfecting their survival skills, you’re ensuring that your yard has a timeless, classic aesthetic with the satisfaction of knowing you are saving a packet in future flowers. Plant this trio of self-seeding loveliness for a high-impact, low-maintenance landscape.

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It’s not the warmest zone, but USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 9 is pretty warm. It offers lovely mild winters and an extended growing season. It includes areas in Florida, Texas, California, Arizona, Louisiana, and smaller parts of Georgia, Alabama, and New Mexico.

If you are not sure of what zone your region is in, it’s useful to look at a USDA planting zone map. Find your state and figure out the zone. Those gardening in Zone 9 will have a large range of plants to choose among, including trees, shrubs, annuals and perennial flowers.

Let's dig in and find the best plants for your Zone 9 garden!

Hello Zone 9

If you live in Zone 9, many of your gardening friends will call you lucky. The average low winter temperatures range from 20 - 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-6.6 - -1 C). and the growing season runs long. In spring, the last frost date is generally February, while the first winter frost isn’t expected until after Thanksgiving. Summers are hot and long, and trees and shrubs grow rapidly.

What grows well in Zone 9? It’s easier to list the things that don’t. Almost every garden vegetable will grow in Zone 9, as well as a wide variety of trees, from silver maple to magnolia, and shrubs like crape myrtle and hydrangea.

Best Plants for Zone 9 Gardens

If you’re a typical gardener, you want landscape plants in addition to your veggie garden. That might include trees, shrubs, and both annual and perennial flowers. Here’s our shortlist of the best plants for Zone 9 gardens.

Best Trees for Zone 9

• American Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis): The American Sycamore, also called American plane tree, was born for a warm zone. This large deciduous tree is both drought tolerant and heat tolerant. It grows rapidly and can top at 75 feet (25m) tall. The canopy is as wide as the tree is tall. It is irregular, with large, green, star-shaped leaves. I love plane trees. The bark is gray and peeling, exposing the ivory inner bark beneath. The fruit balls are appealing, packed with seeds. American sycamore trees can be found at Fast Growing Trees.
• Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora): Southern magnolia is the iconic broadleaf evergreen of the South, a large and beautiful tree with gorgeous shiny dark green leaves and wildly fragrant flowers. These magnolias can get to 80 feet (26m) tall and half that wide. Even the trunks are large, with a diameter of 3 feet (1m). These trees need lots of elbow room, and their lowest branches reach the ground. Nothing is more beautiful than the giant white flowers in summer - and ah that scent! The woody fruits have bright red seeds. 'Edith Bogue' magnolia trees can be purchased from Nature Hills Nursery. Their giant, fragrant flowers will make all your neighbors jealous.
• Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum): This native tree is quite common across the Midwest, and it’s a classic shade tree that rows fast, has graceful leaves and produces “helicopters,” those samaras that hold maple seeds. Silver maple grows in USDA zones 3-9, and prefers a full sun location. Like most maples, silver maple needs quite a lot of water to thrive, so select a spot with moist soil and don’t hesitate to water regularly. Find a silver maple at Fast Growing Trees.

Best Shrubs for Zone 9

• Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica): You can find crape myrtle trees and crape myrtle bushes – essentially differentiated by the size. There are many attractive varieties of these shrubs with multiple stems laden with showy red, white, pink or purple blossoms. The shrubs bloom in summer, turning from bare branches into bright, ornamental floral displays that attract birds and other pollinators. Crape myrtle is perfect, small flowering tree for zone 9 and works well for shrub borders, specimen plants, and container plants. Any placement helps you create beautiful garden landscapes. Delight in the clusters of spike-shaped flowers from early summer until fall. 'Pocomoke' crape myrtle shrubs, available from Fast Growing Trees, have bright pink blooms from summer until fall.
• Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla): Hydrangeas are the envy of every garden. Workhorse shrubs, their prolific flowers are big and bright, adding charm to any landscape. But bigleaf hydrangea, also called mophead, are also extremely easy to grow and also easy to maintain. And you can find many different varieties to choose between, including my favorite. ‘All Summer Beauty’. This cultivar stays at 3-6 feet (1-2m) tall and wide and is covered with showy “globe” blooms. You’ll want to be sure to water your hydrangea a couple of times a week. All Summer Beauty’ will grow to 3-5 feet tall and wide. The shrubs require at least 4 hours a day of sun. You can find 'All Summer Beauty' hydrangeas from Wayside Gardens Nursery.
• Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica): No, heavenly bamboo is not a bamboo at all. It’s an ornamental evergreen shrub with cane-like stems and beautiful foliage that looks like bamboo. This is a striking, low-maintenance shrub that grows 2 feet (.5m) a year until it reaches 7 feet (2.5m) tall and 5 feet (1.5m) in USDA hardiness zones 6-9. This is such an easy plant to grow that it is considered invasive in a few states. Be sure to check before you plant and trim regularly to keep them from taking over. The berries are lovely, but don’t eat them. They are toxic to humans and pets and grow best in full sun. 'Obsession' nandina shrubs can be purchased from Fast Growing Trees and will make a great addition to your landscape.

Best Annual Flowers for Zone 9

• Zinnias (Zinnia elegans): In my opinion, the best annuals grow fast, bloom in bold colors and are magnets for pollinators. Zinnias fit the bill. In addition, these vibrant blooms are tough and drought-tolerant, with pink, purple, yellow, orange, white, and red blooms. They do best in full sunlight and well-draining soil. Find a California Giants mix of zinnia seeds from the Sweet Yards Store on Amazon.
• Verbena (Verbena x hybrida): With dark green toothed leaves with toothed edges and small colorful flowers in white, red, purple, pink, and lavender, verbena are lovely bedding flowers. The plants thrive in a full sun location and well-drained soil. They are also great for hanging baskets and containers. , making them ideal for gardens, containers, and hanging baskets. Park Seed has a wonderful selection of verbena seeds and plants in all shades of the rainbow.
• African Marigolds (Tagetes erecta): You may be more familiar with popular French marigolds, but the African marigold variety (also called Mexican marigolds) are taller - at three to four feet (1-1.5m) This species is a true annual and lasts one season only, producing green stems topped by large round flowers in shades of yellow, orange, and cream. The foliage is fern-like. African marigolds need sun and well-drained soil to keep those blossoms coming. But they are easy to seed and easy to grow, making them grand flowers to help kids plant. Deadhead the plants regularly all season long. African marigold seeds can be purchased from True Leaf Market Seed Company.

Best Perennial Flowers for Zone 9

• Purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea): Coneflowers are easy Zone 9 perennials that grow stems to 5 feet (1.5m) tall topped with purple coneflowers - daisy-like purple rays ringing a brown cone. These tall, bright flowers thrive in USDA zone 9 in a site getting six or more hours of sun daily. The soil must drain well. Purple coneflower seeds from Seed Needs can be found on Amazon.
• Russian sage (Salvia yangii): Russian sage is a perennial that offers lacy silver-gray foliage and eye-catching lavender blooms. It needs full sun and well-drained soil. Bright and elegant, these tall plants, with stems to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, are aromatic and charming. Find Russian sage plants from Park Seed and get ready to be wowed by its fragrance and showy nature.
• Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.): Have you ever dreamed about a perennial that is hardy, beautiful and practically bulletproof? Meet the daylily, an effortless Zone 9 bulb that blooms and just keeps on blooming from spring to frost. Of course, they have to, since each lily-like daylily blossom lives one day only. They thrive in sunny sites in any type of soil. 'Stella D'oro' daylilies, available from Home Depot, are bright yellow bloomers that stay small and don't spread.

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Knowing how to water seedlings correctly is the difference between a tray full of healthy starts and a tray full of heartbreak. The method matters as much as the moisture—and the right tool for each stage makes both a lot easier to get right.

Most seedling failures come down to water. Too much and the stems rot at the soil line—a fungal condition called damping off that can wipe out an entire tray overnight. Too little and the roots never establish properly, leaving plants that look fine until they suddenly don’t. The frustrating part is that both problems often come from well-meaning watering rather than neglect. A heavy pour from the wrong can. A missed day under a dome that dried out too fast. The excitement of watching something germinate can turn to heartbreak faster than most gardeners expect.

The good news is that damping off prevention and consistent moisture aren’t complicated once you match the method to the growth stage. Pre-germination, germination, and true-leaf growth each have different needs—and each has a tool built for the job. A solid seed starting kit covers most of it, but knowing why each method works is what keeps seedlings alive when things don’t go exactly to plan. Here’s how to water seedlings at every stage, and what’s worth having to do it properly.

Method 1: The Humidity Dome – For Consistent Moisture Pre-Germination

Before anything germinates, the job isn’t really watering—it’s moisture maintenance. Seeds need consistent humidity around them to germinate reliably, and an open tray loses that moisture fast under grow lights or in a warm room. A humidity dome traps ambient moisture and helps recirculate it, dramatically reducing how often the tray needs attention and creating a stable microclimate that speeds germination.

The risk is the same as any enclosed humid space: tip too far and fungal problems follow. Vented domes solve this—adjustable vents let you dial humidity back as germination starts, transitioning seedlings gradually from enclosed to open air. Leave vents closed pre-germination, crack them once green appears, remove the dome entirely once true leaves develop.

Method 2: Bottom Watering Seeds – The Gold Standard

Bottom watering is considered one of the most effective methods for seed starting, and the reason is simple: it keeps the soil surface dry. Damping off is a soil fungus that shows up at the surface—it thrives where the top layer stays wet and moisture sits against young stems.

Bottom watering seeds means filling the outer tray and letting capillary action pull moisture upward through the drainage holes in the cell tray. The roots find water from below and the surface stays dry. The fungal conditions that kill seedlings never get the environment they need, and roots grow downward toward the moisture rather than clustering near the surface. Sturdier plants, better transplant outcomes, less babysitting.

Method 3: The Gentle Shower – For Established Seedlings

Once true leaves appear, seedlings need more water than a reservoir alone can deliver through capillary action. Top watering becomes appropriate at this stage—but the wrong can will flatten a seedling in one pour. The goal is a fine, even shower that moistens the whole surface without any force against the stem.

The "rose" head on a watering can does this work: it breaks the flow into dozens of fine streams that fall like light rain rather than a stream. Applied from 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) above the cells, a good rose produces exactly the coverage seedlings need without disturbing the soil or knocking stems sideways.

Typically, fall is the best time to plant grass seed, but early spring is a close second best. Before you run out to the store and buy a bag of seed, let’s explore the best type of grass seed to purchase. Choosing the right seed for your location and lawn condition is important so the grass survives and thrives to become a lush lawn worthy of picnics and games of tag.

It is also critical to buy good quality seed. Buying the absolute cheapest seed can seem tempting, but the germination rate will be low and you might still have patches in your lawn even after all your hard work.

Don’t wait to seed your lawn much longer, summer will be here soon and then you’ll be out of luck until fall. Here are the best types of grass seed for overseeding your type of lawn.

Grass Seed for Cool-Season Lawns

Cool-season grasses are turfgrasses that are best for lawns in the northern regions of North America. Cool-season grasses are adapted to cold winters and hot summers and actively grow when daytime air temperatures are between 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C) and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. When it gets warmer than that, they slow their growth and have limited ability to take up nutrients. Getting your cool-season grass established before warm summer temperatures is critical to the health of your lawn.

Common cool-season grasses include Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass. Scotts Turf Builder Kentucky bluegrass seed, available from Amazon, is combined with fertilizer and soil improver to improve results and grow dense, healthy turf. Scotts also offers a perennial ryegrass seed Turf Builder mix and a tall fescue seed Turf Builder mix which are both available from the Home Depot.

Grass Seed for Warm-Season Lawns

Warm-season grasses are turfgrasses that perform well in the hot conditions of the southern U.S. Unlike cool-season grasses, warm-season varieties grow during the warmer months of the year and have high heat and drought tolerance. Seeding warm-season grass should be done in the spring or summer when the threat of frost has passed, ideally when air temperatures are consistently between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21-32 C).

Common warm-season grasses include centipedegrass, Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysia grass. You can find centipedegrass seed and Bermudagrass seed from Scotts at Lowe’s. Zoysia grass and St. Augustinegrass are generally planted as sod or sod plugs since they are such great spreaders. Zoysia grass and St. Augustinegrass sod plugs can also be purchased from Lowe’s.

Grass Seed for Shady Lawns

Beautiful full-shade lawns are tough to achieve. Turfgrass needs sun. If you have an area of your yard that only gets 3-4 hours of dappled sunlight throughout the day, you should consider planting a lawn alternative.

However, there are species of grass that do better in shadier spots in the yard. Seed mixes that combine shade-tolerant types of grass are your best bet if you have a moderately shaded area. Fine fescues like creeping red fescue, hard fescue, and Chewings fescue are cool-season grasses that will work in shaded areas that have little traffic. The dense shade mixture grass seed from GreenView can be found at Lowe’s and is a mix of fescues and perennial ryegrass. St. Augustinegrass is the most shade-tolerant of the warm-season grasses.

Grass Seed for Mossy Lawns

Moss can overtake turfgrass in lawns that are compacted, have poor drainage, and acidic soil. There’s nothing wrong with moss, but if you’d rather have grass it can feel like a losing battle. Lawns in the Pacific Northwest can be particularly prone to moss infestations given the climate conditions of that region.

Gardening Know How senior manager Allie battled moss in her PNW lawn until she found success with Scotts Turf Builder Pacific Northwest mix of grass seed, available from Home Depot, that includes soil conditioners. Dethatching can also help reduce moss colonies. If moss is still a problem, you can find Scotts MossEx at the Home Depot to treat moss and fertilize grass for improved turf.

Grass Seed for High-Traffic Lawns

If you have kids or dogs zipping around your lawn all summer, you will want to purchase a good quality grass seed for high-traffic areas. There is nothing sadder than a brown, worn patch of mud in your yard under the swing when the rest of it is brilliant and lush.

In northern regions, Kentucky bluegrass will be your best choice for high-traffic lawns as it is resilient and grows quickly (this high-traffic mix from Scotts at Home Depot fits the bill). In the south, Bermudagrass is the toughest grass for your climate and Bermudagrass seed can be purchased from Lowe’s.

Aerating a compacted, high-traffic lawn can also help improve the turf. Aeration is the process of removing small plugs of soil to allow air, water, and nutrients to reach grass roots more easily. You can hire a professional service to aerate your lawn or use a Garden Weasel manual core aerator, available from Amazon, for a smaller area that has become compacted.

Shop Lawn Seeding Essentials

As March finally arrives, it’s starting to feel like winter’s moment on the stage is over (at long last!) and so it slopes off, stage left, tacitly making room for spring. March seems to sit on the eternal crossroads between the seasons, which makes it an ideal time to sow some key crops. I’m all for that, and in this selection you’ll find some of the most reliable (and tastiest) vegetables to plant in March. Depending on the zone in which you live, that planting might take place indoors, outdoors, or a mix.

Getting stuck into seed starting indoors is a decisive and exciting step towards the busier gardening calendar, especially after this infernal winter. What’s more, you can also direct-sow some key vegetable seeds in March. Knowing you can prep a few slow developers while the going is good is just a part of it – as long as you are familiar with your region’s anticipated last spring frost date, you can multi-task warm-weather and cool-weather veggies with confidence, switching between hardy crops outside and slightly fussier favorites under glass.

So are you wondering what vegetables to plant in March? Read on, as I present my pick of the March veggie hit list for sowing this month. Make sure you take full advantage of this exciting growing window!

Vegetable Seeds to Start Indoors

Indoor sowing is about buying time. But it’s also about getting the timing right for every crop you want to grow. You need to make sure you’re choosing those crops that will benefit the most from the longer growing window and the cosier conditions under glass. It’s about getting a head start on seedlings you can hopefully sow out after the last frosts of spring. Make sure you know the last frost date for your USDA planting zone, and count back from there. Most vegetable seeds should be started between 6 and 10 weeks before the final frost.

Deciding what vegetables to grow in March under glass is also about making sure you have the best light for your seedlings. To prevent leggy seedlings that lean toward the window, I highly recommend some full spectrum LED grow lights, and ideally something with an adjustable height option, such as the Barrina T10 Full Spectrum Standing Grow Light from Amazon. Here are the best vegetable seeds to sow in January for satisfying early crops.

1. Tomatoes

Tomatoes aren’t just some of the best vegetables to plant in March – they are some of the best veg to plant, period. I think of tomatoes as my top go-to garden crop, mainly because I love to eat them. Having said that, they are frost tender, and in most regions, you can get a late spring frost in March. Depending on your area, start them 4-6 weeks before the last spring frost and transplant out after the last frost.

Select a blight-resistent variety, use any all-purpose potting soil, and put seedlings in the sunniest window you can find. Start them in small cells or pots, and the moment the second set of leaves appears, transplant them into larger containers. Also, if you are growing in a windowsill, rotate your trays 180 degrees every day so stems grow straight rather than leaning.

You’re really spoiled for choice when it comes to tomato varieties to start now. If I had to pick a few, I’d say try ‘Celebrity’ for disease resistance, ‘Tiny Tim’ for tumbling fruits in baskets, or ‘Black Krim’ for a quirky salty-sweet heirloom. Burpee has some highly varied tomato options for containers and ground-based growing. I love Burpee’s ‘Big Boy’ Hybrid Seeds for the promise of tangy treats all summer long.

2. Peppers

Peppers are notorious for being divas during germination, but they are great for early sowings under glass. They require a higher soil temperature than tomatoes (ideally between 80°F and 90°F). If your seeds are sitting in cold March soil, they will sit dormant and eventually rot. So start indoors, counting back 8-10 weeks before the last spring frost in your region.

Use a seed-starting mix that contains perlite or vermiculite. If you are growing hotter varieties like habaneros, be aware they can take up to 3 weeks to germinate, so don't give up on them too soon. For an extra boost, mist the soil with warm water. A heat mat can also help provide that essential warmth they crave. Once they sprout, however, move your pepper seedlings to a slightly cooler spot (around 70°F) to keep them from growing too fast and becoming spindly.

Whether you’re a sweet or spicy pepper lover, there’s something to please you for this March sowing. ‘Purple Beauty’ is a lovely bell option for an unusual pop of color, and ‘Habanada’ (a heatless Habanero flavor) is a prolific option for chilli aficionados. Or why not just try Purely Organic ‘California Wonder’ Heirloom Pepper Seeds from Amazon for the classic heirloom bell?

3. Eggplant

Eggplants are essentially sun sponges. In March, the goal with these warm-season vegetables is to trick them into thinking they are already in the tropics. So start your eggplant seeds indoors 6-10 weeks before the last spring frost in your region.

Because eggplant seeds are tiny, they can easily be buried too deep. Aim for a shallow quarter-inch (60 mm) and barely dust with soil. Avoid using overhead watering, which can lead to damping off. Instead, set your seedling tray in a shallow pan of water for 15 minutes daily so the moisture wicks upward to the roots. Once the seedlings are 3 inches (8 cm) tall, give them a light brush with your hand as you walk by. This strengthens the stalks for the eventual move outside.

There are some gorgeous eggplant varieties to choose from, including striped ‘Fairytale’ for raised beds, or Spanish Listada de Gandia. I love heirloom ‘Black Beauty’ Eggplant, available to buy as seeds from Burpee, for those sleek and glossy jackets and creamy fillings.

4. Basil

Whether you head over to the Italian or Thai end of the equation, basil adds a wonderful flavor – but it is frost tender. That’s why I’d suggest you start your seeds indoors, 4-6 weeks before the final spring frost in your area. Plant a few in each small pot, using moistened seed-starting mix, and a quarter-inch (6 mm) deep. Keep seeds warm, and bear in mind it will take a week or more to see the seeds sprout.

The biggest threat is stagnant air, which leads to fungal issues. If you are growing basil on a windowsill, ensure there is plenty of space between pots. Sow in clusters of 3 or 4 per cell, but snip the weakest as they grow, leaving the alpha in each cell. Start pinching off the top center stem once your basil plants have 3 sets of leaves. This forces the plant to send its energy into side branches for the bushiest growth.

Delectable basil varieties include classic ‘Genovese’, ‘Thai Basil’ for that spicy anise kick, or ‘Purple Ruffles’ for delicious frills of flavor (and incidentally, a great variety for hydroponics. You can buy ‘Purple Ruffles’ Basil Seeds from Amazon.

Vegetable Seeds You Can Direct Sow

Direct sowing in March is for the hardy crowd – by which I mean, the vegetables that enjoy a bit of a chill while they are growing. The key here is soil texture. If you squeeze a handful and it stays in a muddy ball, it’s too wet to plant. If it crumbles, you’re ready to go. For those in cooler zones (5-7), you may need to stick to indoor growing for now, whereas those in zones 8-10 will hopefully be feeling that crumble. That said, the choices listed below should work for gardeners in USDA zones 5-10.

5. Broccoli

Broccoli is one of those hardy, cool-season crops that prefer growing when the weather is cool, usually in spring and fall. I’ve found the secret to great broccoli is keeping the plant unstressed. If a broccoli seedling gets too cold or too dry in March, it may produce a button (a tiny head). Test your soil pH. Broccoli thrives in slightly alkaline soil (around 6-7).

Plant seeds a quarter-inch (6 mm) deep and space widely. Broccoli needs significant airflow to prevent the mildew. If you live in a zone where March brings heavy frosts, protect direct-sown seeds with a cloche. You can make a cloche for free by cutting the bottom off a clear plastic milk jug and placing it over the planting site. The colder your climate, the longer it will take for crops to mature. Some take 100 days in the soil before harvest.

Select a variety that matures quickly like heirloom ‘De Cicco’ or cold-hardy ‘Waltham 29’ broccoli. Harvest this nutrient-rich crop before summer’s hot sun. I also love violet nutty ‘Purplelicious’ Sprouting Broccoli Seeds, available from Burpee.

6. Cauliflower

Cauliflower is another cool-season veggie that you’ll want to harvest before summer. Start seeds at least a month before the final frost of spring. You can start them even earlier if your springs are colder than average. Cauliflower has a reputation for being a tricky member of the brassica family, because it is very sensitive to temperature fluctuations. But it’s not hard to cultivate delicious curds if you get the timing right, and you can grow outside from March in zones 3-12.

The idea is that you need the plant to get large before the summer heat hits, but you don't want it to freeze on the way. To succeed, ensure your soil is rich in organic matter. Cauliflower is a heavy drinker and a heavy eater. Mixing in a shovelful of aged compost into the planting hole is the best way to ensure consistent growth. Row covers can also help to keep the soil warm, and create a physical barrier against cabbage looper moths which will emerge when the sun comes out.

If you are growing white varieties, blanch them by tying the outer leaves together with a rubber band once the head is the size of a tennis ball to keep it tender and pale. ‘Snowball’ (classic white), ‘Cheddar’ (bright orange), or ‘Graffiti’ (vibrant purple). I love brightly colored ‘Cheddar (orange) and ‘Graffit’ (purple) but you can’t go wrong with classic white ‘Snow Ball’ Cauliflower, available as seeds from Amazon.

7. Parsnip

You can plant parsnips in March as soon as the soil can be worked. Some might argue that this delicious root is a real test of a grower’s patience. They take 3-4 weeks to show their faces from seed, and in that time, soil can crust over, trapping the delicate sprout beneath. But I’m in the camp that believes they are worth the wait. Just get them in the ground quickly, as they need a long, cool growing season.

A handy trick is to mix your parsnip seeds with a few radish seeds. The radishes sprout in just 3 days, acting as row markers so you don't accidentally hoe over your parsnips. By the time the parsnips need the space, you’ll have harvested the radishes. Water often enough to keep the soil moist, and thin once seedlings appear.

Because parsnips are long taproots, they require deeply worked soil. If your ground is rocky or heavy clay, use a garden fork to loosen the earth 12 inches (30 cm) down. ‘Gladiator’ is an excellent option for canker-resistant roots, but I love ‘Hollow Crown’ Parsnips, available as seeds from Burpee, for yummy sweet and nutty snips.

8. Peas

Peas are the third member of the cool-weather-crop trifecta. Direct-sow in a sunny garden plot. The best soil will have excellent drainage and high fertility. So please check your soil before planting your peas. If they are dropped into a muddy bog, your seeds will rot before they sprout.

You might find it helps to dig a shallow trench, fill it with a bit of sand or light compost, to improve drainage, and sow into that. Also, if you are keen to maximize vertical space, install your trellis before sowing. You don’t want to damage a delicate root system later. If a hard freeze is predicted after your peas have sprouted, don't worry too much; they can usually handle a dip to 28°F without choking.

Peas will thrive in spring, but it’s a good idea to harvest them before summer gets too toasty heat, to guarantee the freshest flavors. Try ‘Sugar Ann’ snap peas, ‘Blue Podded Desire’ for a stunning purple heirloom, or ‘Little Marvel’ for quintessential sweetness. You can buy ‘Little Marvel’ Peas in packs of 120 seeds from Amazon.

9. Beets

Beets are a delicious root vegetable edible that does double duty. I love crops that multitask, and these are some of the best, as the green beet tops are just as flavorsome as the plump roots. Beets like the cooler weather, but are fine in summer as well, and they will grow happily from early spring to late summer.

These March crops are unique, because each seed is actually a cluster of 2-4 embryos. This means that even if you space your seeds perfectly, you will always have multiples growing in one spot. In March, the most important task is thinning. Once the seedlings are 2 inches (5 cm) tall, snip the extras at the soil line. Whatever you do, don’t pull them out, or you will disturb the roots of the beet you want to keep.

Here’s a little beet secret: dissolve a pinch of Borax in a gallon of water and pour on your patch once in the season. This prevents black heart, a common beet deficiency. Don't forget, while you wait for the roots to swell, you can harvest a few leaves from each plant without hurting the bulb's development. Burpee has some highly varied beet seeds, including classic ‘Detroit Dark Red’ and candy cane ‘Chioggia’ varieties.

10. Cabbage

If there was ever a vegetable just meant for beginners, it would be cabbage – and the seeds of this agreeable hardy veggie can be direct-sown now. True, cabbages take their time heading to the finishing line, but you’ll adore watching them gain momentum and you’re sure to be cheering them on as they get bigger.

Just bear in mind that cabbage is a heavy drinker. In the breezy days of March, the soil can dry out faster than you realize. To keep your cabbage heads from splitting, consistency is key. Mulch heavily around the base of your cabbage plants with straw or shredded leaves. This keeps the roots cool and ensures the moisture levels don't fluctuate wildly, which is the main cause of heads cracking open.

Look for early varieties in March. These are bred to grow fast and can often be harvested in as little as 60 days. I adore flavorsome heirloom ‘Earliana’ Cabbage, available as seeds from Burpee. Other lovely early varieties include ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ (pointy and fast), ‘Red Acre’ (vibrant purple), or ‘Savoy Perfection’ (crinkled, beautiful leaves). Plant in full sun and rich, well-drained soil in zones 1-10.

Cabbage is a great candidate for intercropping, so you can plant lettuce or spinach in the gaps between your cabbage plants. By the time the cabbage grows large enough to need the space, those accompanying quick developers will have been harvested.

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While many gardeners wait for spring warmth, planting sweet peas in winter unlocks one of the season’s best-kept secrets. Whether you choose to sow them in deep pots on a cool windowsill indoors or directly into the ground (if your soil isn't frozen), January is the ideal window.

You might be thinking it’s better to plant sweet peas in spring, but that timing can work against you. In January, the soil remains cool enough to encourage slow, strong root development, without the pitfalls of earlier or later timing. December can be too dark and wet, encouraging rot, while March often pushes plants into fast top growth before roots dig deep.

January sits right in the sweet spot, for a head start that results in healthier vines and more abundant flowers come summer. So here’s why sowing sweet peas this month is the secret to heat-resistant plants and an explosion of summer scent.

Why January is the Sweet Spot

Sweet peas are naturally cool-season climbers that feel right at home in chilly weather. In their native Mediterranean habitats, they pop up during mild winters and quietly put all their effort into growing deep, sturdy roots long before they get round to flowers. When you plant sweet peas in winter, you’re mimicking that natural rhythm. This is much better than rushing them once spring soil warms up.

The secret to a joyous sweet pea summer isn't about what happens in July – it's what happens right now. Here’s why January sowing is beneficial:

• Drought Resistance: Early sowing prevents the weak, shallow root systems that cause plants to stall or abort their buds when the summer heat arrives. Those extra inches of root depth mean better hydration through dry spells.
• Stronger Nutrient Pull: A larger root mass allows the plant to suck up more minerals, leading to thick stems and vines that can hit six feet or taller. This in turn means multiple strong flowering stems per vine, instead of shorter, single-stemmed plants from later sowings.
• Reduced Transplant Shock: Sweet peas don’t like disturbance once temperatures climb, and transplant shock hits harder with rushed starts. Another huge benefit is less stress later. Getting them going now lets them settle before the big spring growth spurt.

Which Type Should You Choose?

When we talk about sweet peas, we’re usually talking about annuals. These are the stars of the show when it comes to fragrance and flower power. But let’s consider the relative benefits of annual and perennial sweet peas:

• Annuals: These types (Lathyrus odoratus) throw themselves into one spectacular season, pushing up long stems loaded with colorful, ruffled, and beautifully scented blooms before the summer heat winds things down. Because their life is short, they depend on that winter foundation to power their high-energy show. These offer intense scents and long stems, perfect for cutting. They need that winter head start to build the foundation for their one spectacular season.
• Perennials: These types (L. latifolius) return reliably year after year, and blanket fences with steady coverage. However, there is a catch: the flowers are smaller and, crucially, they have almost no scent. These return yearly and are great for screening, but they lack the iconic fragrance and come in a limited color range.

So if you want that classic cottage-garden perfume, stick with annuals for late winter sowings. Their intense scent (think warm honey mixed with orange blossom and a hint of vanilla) develops its richest notes when the plants are allowed to grow slowly through the cool early months.

Sweet Pea Varieties for Early Sowing

Not all sweet peas handle early sowing the same, and some shine brighter when started in cool conditions. Old-fashioned grandiflora types are reliable, delivering strong vines, intense fragrance, and better tolerance for later heat. Modern Spencer varieties, with their ruffled, showy blooms and extra-long stems, also thrive with the head start. Shorter bush or dwarf types do beautifully now too, particularly in small spaces. These still love cool soil and stay manageable without heavy support. Here are three of the best if you are looking to sow sweet peas in winter.

1. ‘Cupani’ (Heirloom)

This is the original sweet pea, dating back to the 17th century. It features bicolor blooms of deep maroon and violet. It is arguably the hardiest variety available. It shrugs off frost better than modern hybrids, making it a fail-safe choice for winter sowing.

While the flowers are smaller than modern types, the scent is arguably the most powerful in the sweet pea world: Because these are wilder genetics, the seed coats can be very hard. Give these a definite nick with a nail file before planting to help them hydrate. You can buy 'Cupani’s Original' Sweet Pea Seeds from Hudson Valley Seed Co.

2. ‘Mammoth Mix’ (Grandiflora)

If you are looking for long stems, this is your go-to. 'Mammoth' varieties are bred specifically to handle the transition from cool spring to early summer heat. By sowing in January, you give the plant the root power to keep those large flowers pumping out well into July.

As the name suggests, the blooms are huge and the stems are exceptionally long and sturdy. These blooms come in a beautiful palette of navies, roses, and whites. They are vigorous climbers, though, so provide a tall trellis early, as they will outgrow small supports by mid-spring. Buy ‘Mammoth Mix’ Sweet Pea Seeds from Amazon.

3. ‘April in Paris’ (Modern Spencer)

This is a sophisticated sweet pea with ruffled, cream-colored petals tipped with a delicate margin of lilac-purple. Spencer varieties can be a bit more diva-like than heirlooms. They need a long, cool growing season to develop their signature ruffles and high bud count, and they benefit from the extra weeks of root growth.

A January start ensures they don't get rushed by the heat. This sweet pea has an incredible, clean scent that many describe as laundry-fresh. Spencers love a bit of extra food. When you transplant these, make sure the soil is rich with well-rotted compost or manure. Try similarly toned High Scent Sweet Pea Seeds from Burpee.

How to Plant Sweet Peas Now

Sweet pea seeds have a protective integument (a fancy word for a tough skin) that can slow germination. You can help them along by soaking them in a cup of lukewarm water for 12–24 hours until they look plump. Alternatively, use a piece of sandpaper or a nail file to lightly scratch the surface, just enough to let water in, but not so deep that you damage the eye of the seed. Then do the following:

• Indoors: Use deep pots or root trainers, like Tierra Garden Root Trainers from Amazon, and a high-quality, peat-free potting mix. Place your sweet peas in a cool, bright spot, like a garage window or an unheated porch. Transplant seedlings while roots are untangled to avoid stunting, and set supports right away. Use sturdy netting such as Vivosun Trellis Netting from Amazon.
• Outdoors: If your soil isn't frozen or waterlogged, you can sow directly. Dig a trench 6 inches (15 cm) deep and fill the bottom with well-rotted compost. Sow an inch deep and 3 inches (8 cm) apart. Ensure excellent drainage. Sweet peas love cool feet, but hate wet feet, and soggy soil is their primary enemy in winter.

When your seedlings reach 4–6 inches (10-15 cm) tall and have two or three sets of leaves, they might look a bit spindly. Pinch off the very top of the growing tip with your fingernails. This feels cruel, but it forces the plant to send out side basals, turning one thin vine into three or four bushy, productive ones.

Problems with Winter Sowings

Sowing sweet peas in winter can save stress and heartache later. March-planted sweet peas race upward but bloom sparsely, diverting energy into survival instead of flowers. January sowing gives them time to grow slowly, sink roots deep, and build reserves for an explosive flowering display that often lasts weeks longer. Still, there are a few hurdles to be aware of. Most are easy to fix, as long as you catch them early:

• Leggy, Spindly Stems: This usually happens when seedlings are grown on a warm windowsill with low light. The plant stretches to find the sun. Move them to a cooler spot and increase the light. A full-spectrum grow light, like the Glowrium Height Adjustable Grow Light from Amazon, will keep them growing strong.
• Damping Off / Rotting: This fungal issue is caused by stagnant, wet soil and poor airflow. Prevent it by using fresh, sterile potting soil and ensuring pots have excellent drainage. Don't overwater in winter. The soil should be damp, not dripping. Check moisture levels with a moisture meter, like the Raintrip Soil Meter from Amazon.
• Pale or Yellowing Leaves: This is often linked to wet feet or a lack of nitrogen. Check drainage and let the top inch of soil dry out.. If the soil is fine, give them a half-strength liquid seaweed feed, like TPS Nutrients’ Seaweed fertilizer from Amazon, to green them up.
• Slugs & Snails: Young, tender shoots are like caviar to slugs. Use copper tape around pots, like this Copper Foil Tape from Amazon, or organic iron-phosphate slug pellets (safe for birds and pets). If growing in a greenhouse, check under the rims of the pots at night.

Essential Sweet Pea Care Kit

Late winter sweet pea sowing is a fun project that sets you up for spring and gives you something to look forward to. Just make sure you have these essentials to hand:

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Someone once told me that gardening would teach me patience. And it has – to a certain degree. You can’t hurry nature, yet there are a few long months between the first frost in fall and the last frost in spring. Those of us who still have a hard time waiting for our spring crops to grow need ways to speed things up. Luckily, there are plenty of vegetable seeds to sow in January to get the jump on harvests.

There is a way to cheat the calendar. One tried and true trick to jump-start a spring veggie garden is to start the seeds indoors during winter. By shifting your growing season indoors and seed starting under glass while the ground is still frozen, you aren’t just passing the time, you’re ensuring you’ll be the first person on the block harvesting fresh, crisp greens while everyone else is still buying seeds. You won’t be able to set out the plants when they first germinate, but you can let them sprout and grow inside from January through March, then set them out in April.

Not every seed can be started in winter, but for those that can, the rewards are immense. Here’s a shortlist of my favorite seeds to start indoors in winter. I hope that many of your favorites make the list.

9 Veg Seeds to Sow in January

Success in this January sowing window isn't just about enthusiasm; it’s about choosing the right candidates for your windowsill or light setup. Luckily, because you’ll be starting indoors, you won’t have to worry too much (yet) about hardiness zones or local climates. Deciding what seeds to sow in January is about choosing the right varieties. When we start seeds this early, we are looking for varieties that are either slow to mature, giving them a long runway, or those that thrive in the cool, fickle temperatures of early spring (when they will be going outdoors).

Before you reach for your seed packets, consider your setup. Since natural light is still weak this time of year, a south-facing windowsill or a simple LED grow light will be your best friend to prevent leggy seedling stems. Choose a model with an adjustable height option for tier-based and vertical tray growing, such as the Barrina T10 Full Spectrum Standing Grow Light from Amazon. These lights are easy to install and to move around, offering flexibility around the home for multiple veg starts.

You’ll also want to ensure your compost is at room temperature to encourage quick germination. By starting now, you're effectively building a reserve of strong, resilient plants that are ready to hit the ground running the moment the soil warms up. Here are the best vegetable seeds to sow in January for satisfying early crops.

1. Leeks

​​I learned to love leeks during my time in France, where they are a staple for everyday meals. If you’ve ever enjoyed a buttery leek tart in a Parisian café, you know the delicate, onion-adjacent sweetness that makes these long-legged alliums so essential. The secret many gardeners miss? The art of growing leeks is a marathon, not a sprint.

Many varieties require 120-150 days to reach full size. If you wait until May to sow them outdoors, you could be waiting until fall (or even the first snow) for harvests. Starting them indoors in January allows you to transplant robust pencil-thick seedlings the moment the soil is workable. Look for early season or summer leeks. 'King Richard' is a favorite for US gardeners because it grows rapidly and can be harvested as baby leeks. 'Lancelot' is another fantastic, bolt-resistant choice that thrives when started early. You can buy ‘American Flag’ Leek Seeds from Amazon.

Leeks are heavy feeders but hate wet feet. Use a seed-starting mix with excellent drainage. Once the seedlings reach 3 inches (8 cm) tall, trim the tops to 1 inch (2.5 cm). This haircut prevents them becoming top-heavy and encourages the plant to direct its energy into building a thick, strong root system and base. When you transplant them in spring, place them in a 6-inch (15 cm) deep trench. As they grow taller, pull the surrounding soil inward. This keeps the lower portion of the stem white and tender. Plant in USDA zones 3-11.

2. Onions

Onions are the undisputed workhorses of the veg garden. Whether they are the base of a winter stew or the star of a summer salsa, you can never have too many. However, onions are photo-periodic plants, meaning they decide when to form a bulb based on how many hours of daylight they get. As a rule, you need to grow onions for between 100-150 days in the soil before harvest.

Starting seeds in January is the ultimate pro-move as it gives onions time to develop a massive root system and plenty of lush tops before the summer solstice. The more leaves you have by June, the bigger your bulbs will be! Plant seeds in well-draining soil in late January for transplanting out in March. Onions need sun, indoors and out.

As they grow to 6 inches (15 cm), cut them back by half to let that energy channel into the root growth. Keep the soil moist but never wet. Onion seedlings are prone to damping off (a fungal disease). To prevent this, you can sprinkle a little cinnamon or vermiculite on the planting surface, which acts as a natural fungicide.

Aim to transplant your onions outdoors once they are about the thickness of a pencil. In many US zones, this will be late March or early April, just as the soil becomes workable. These veggies thrive in USDA zones 3-9. Buy ‘Walla Walla’ Sweet Spanish Onion Seeds from Amazon.

3. Cabbage

Cabbage is the royalty of the hardy brassicas. While these tough plants can survive temperatures dipping as low as 15°F, they take a long time to head up in the unpredictable weather of early spring. Starting them indoors in January is the secret to harvesting crisp, homegrown coleslaw in June rather than August.

For a January start, look for early varieties such as ‘Golden Acre’ and ‘Red Express’ onions. You can buy ‘Golden Acre’ Cabbage Seeds from Amazon. These are bred to grow quickly and form smaller, tender heads before the heat of summer arrives. Unlike the giant storage cabbages planted later in the year, these early stars are all about quick gratification.

Sow tiny cabbage seeds in seed trays. Use a compost intended for seed sowing and place them in a spot where the temperature doesn’t dip below 60°F. As seedlings develop, prick them out and pot them up, keeping soil moist as they develop. When it’s time to transplant, harden them off first for 7 days. Transplant to a site with full sun and rich, well-drained soil. These veggies are happy in USDA zones 1-10.

4. Cauliflower

Cauliflower has a reputation for being a bit fussy, but its primary demand is simple: it wants to grow in the cool of spring and finish its work before the sweltering heat of summer. So starting your seeds in late January is the secret to success. It gives the plant the long runway it needs to develop a massive frame of leaves, which is the only way you'll get those giant, snowy-white heads (curds) you crave.

Start cauliflower seeds in individual pots in well-drained soil and keep moist. They do better individually planted than in cell trays, since they quickly develop a root system that can fill up small cells (and these plants don’t like having their roots disturbed). Germinate seeds in a spot with warmer temperatures, keep the soil moist, and transplant from March in USDA zones 3-12.

Good varieties for January sowing include ‘Early White Hybrid’ and ‘Graffiti’ cauliflowers, as well as ‘Snow Ball’ Seeds, available from Amazon.

5. Peas

While peas are famously cold-hardy, gardeners in northern zones often struggle with damping off, where seeds rot in the cold, wet mud of March. Starting your peas indoors in January (specifically in USDA zones 6 and below) bypasses this problem entirely. By the time the ground thaws, you’ll be transplanting established plants with deep roots, giving you a 3-week jump on your neighbors.

Before planting pea seeds, nick them slightly to speed up germination. Don’t pack down your seed-starting mix too much. Light and airy is the way to help peas grow. Stick a finger into each cell or pot, making an indentation about an inch (2.5 cm)deep. Put a couple of pea seeds in each dent, then cover them lightly. Keep the soil moist but not wet by spraying it with water. Keep the temperature above 60°F through germination, then move the pea trays into a sunny site.

Peas have delicate taproots, so to avoid transplant shock, you can also sow your seeds in biodegradable pots or hollowed-out toilet paper rolls. When it’s time to go outside, you can plant the entire pot directly into the ground. The container will decompose, and the roots will be safe. Try ‘Sugar Ann’ or ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ varieties for early sweet harvests. You can buy ‘Little Marvel’ Pea Seeds from Amazon.

6. Broccoli

Broccoli is a cool-season superstar, and it hates the heat. If your broccoli is still maturing when the first heatwave of June hits, there is a risk the heads will bolt (open into yellow flowers) and turn bitter overnight. Starting your broccoli seeds indoors in January is the best way to ensure your crop matures during the cool, breezy days of spring, exactly when broccoli tastes its sweetest. The colder your climate, the longer it will take for the crops to mature, and some take 100 days in the soil before harvest.

For a January start, choose early-maturing calabrese varieties. These are bred to produce one large central head quickly, followed by delicious side shoots that you can harvest for weeks afterward. Good options for January sowing include ‘De Cicco’ and ‘Belstar’, as well as ‘Waltham 29’ Seeds from Amazon.

Broccoli seedlings need temps of 70°F to germinate, but prefer it cooler (around 60°F) once they sprout. Move them to the coolest room (as long as there is bright light) after the first leaves appear to grow stocky, tough plants. Use a well-draining soil mix and keep it moist but not wet. When the outside soil is warm enough to be worked, transplant the broccoli seedlings to rich, amended soil in zones 2-11.

7. Artichokes

Globe artichokes are undisputed showstoppers. While these perennial edible thistles are famous for their silver-green foliage and delicious, buttery hearts, they need a long, cool youth to produce those prized flower buds in their first year. Starting in January is an absolute requirement if you live outside the mild climates of California or the deep south. By sowing now, you give the plants the 8-12 weeks of indoor growth they need to be hardened off just as the cool spring rains arrive.

Sow seeds a quarter of an inch (6 mm) deep in well-draining soil in trays or pots. Make sure you use a warm location. Your artichokes will need sunlight, so look for a sunny windowsill, or use grow lights if the sun is limited. The soil must be kept moist at all times until they are ready to be transplanted. Outdoors, they need the same: a sunny location and moist soil in USDA zones 7-11. Great artichoke varieties to try include ‘Violetta’ and ‘Imperial Star’ as well as ‘Green Globe’ Seeds, available from Walmart.

8. Brussels Sprouts

If there is one vegetable that rewards the patient gardener, it’s the Brussels sprout. These plants are like miniature palm trees, producing a towering stalk of golf-ball sized treasures. But because many varieties require 100-180 days to mature, a January start is your big ticket to success. By sowing now, you allow the plants to reach their full height during the long days of summer, so they are ready to begin setting sprouts just as the autumn air turns crisp. Best of all, a light frost actually triggers the plant to convert its starches into sugars, making homegrown sprouts remarkably sweet.

Start seeds 8-10 weeks before transplanting in USDA zones 2-11. Plant in rich, well-amended soil with full sun and consistent moisture. Space plants 24 inches (60cm) apart and provide support as they grow tall. Great varieties for January sowing include ‘Red Bull’ and ‘Jade Cross’ sprouts. You can also buy ‘Long Island Improved’ Seeds from Amazon.

9. Kale

Curly, regular, dinosaur kale varieties – all are nutritious and delicious. Kale is highly touted by nutritionists, but it’s more than a health food trend. Famously cold-hardy and loaded with vitamins, kale is one of the most cold-hardy plants on the planet, often surviving under a blanket of snow. Excellent varieties to start now include ‘Winterbor’ and ‘Red Russian’, as well as ‘Lacinato’ Seeds, available from Walmart.

The best way to grow indoors is to use cell trays filled with a top-quality well-draining potting mix. Plant seeds a quarter of an inch (6 mm) deep and give the tray a warm site with direct sunshine. Keep the soil moist and the seeds will germinate in 12 days or so. As they grow indoors, thin them out by snipping every other seedling at the base. These early microgreen seedlings are superfoods packed with flavor and make a gourmet addition to January sandwiches and salads. Transplant out in zones 3-10 when outdoor soil temperatures reach 50–60°F.

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Don't have your seeds yet? Here are the 9 seeds we recommend buying right now before they sell out!

With key crops already in pots and beds, or already being harvested, you might be thinking that there aren’t that many vegetables to plant in August. But in fact, there are some cracking edibles very well suited to summer plantings, with warmer temperatures and longer days contributing to quicker development times.

This is a great time to plant certain veggies in the garden to continue your growing season and extend the harvest well into fall. It’s your chance to plant both quick-growing vegetable garden ideas and those that do well maturing in the cooler conditions that fall will bring. Exactly what you can plant now, and how you plant, depends on your hardiness zone and first frost dates. Here are some of the most reliable and rewarding vegetable plants to plant in August.

Best Vegetables to Plant in August

There are a few different strategies for August vegetable planting. Before choosing vegetables to plant now, consider your climate, likely germination times, first frost dates, and maturity times. Check your USDA hardiness zone for recommended vegetables to grow, plus your local area for the first frost. Consider the following as a plan for your August veg sowings:

• Continuing Succession Plantings: Maybe you’ve been planting certain vegetables in succession all summer to get a continuous harvest. Carry on with these for one or two more harvests, depending on the type of vegetable and your first frost date.
• Planting Cool Weather Veggies: August is an ideal time to start vegetables that grow well in the cooler weather of fall. They’ll get a good start in the warmth of the August garden and be ready to harvest as the growing season comes to an end.
• Starting Vegetables with Short Maturity Times: There are plenty of fall crops to plant in August. This is a good time to start veggies that mature quickly to sneak in a harvest as the seasons shift into fall.

Look at the maturity times for veggies you’re interested in starting from seed in August. Choose those that will mature by (or before) your first frost. Alternatively, select cool season crops that will tolerate some frost or colder temperatures.

If August is very hot where you live and garden, prep the soil before planting, especially before planting cool weather veggies. Make sure the soil is wet and has some shade to cool it down a little for more heat-sensitive plants.

1. Beets

Many root vegetables grow well in the cooler weather of fall and will even taste better after frosts or freezes. Beets belong to this category and so make great crops to plant in August. When growing beets, sow seeds 8-12 weeks before your first frost date for a sweeter flavor and a mid or late fall harvest. Keep growing beets well watered in the last hot days of summer.

For an early maturing beet variety, try ‘Early Wonder’ or ‘Boltardy’ for its excellent heat tolerance for summer planting. An absolute delight to grow in August is heirloom ‘Chioggia’, available from Burpee, with its distinctive pink and white swirls. You can harvest the baby roots when they are a couple of inches in diameter, and you can also eat the greens like spinach.

2. Radishes

There are several good reasons to plant radishes toward the end of summer. Like many other root vegetables, they prefer cooler weather and will even have a better flavor when grown during the ‘shoulder season’. Radishes also have fast maturity times and are ideal for succession planting several times.

Radishes are some of the best vegetables to sow in August because they are amongst the fastest growing veggies, maturing in just 3-5 weeks. If you start sowing in August, you can probably get several additional harvests this year. Great varieties for August sowing include ‘French Breakfast’ and zesty ‘Cherry Belle’, available from Walmart.

When growing radish from seed at this time, don’t forget white varieties like ‘Daikon’ or ‘White Icicle’ from Everwilde, also available from Walmart, which develop quickly and tolerate warmer plantings.

3. Carrots

These root vegetables can take a bit of time to mature, but it’s worth the wait. Carrots, like many roots, taste better and sweeter after temperatures cool down. In many growing zones, it’s possible to seed in the garden now and enjoy a mid or late fall harvest of sweet, delicious roots.

When growing carrots, you’ll find that germination rates do drop in the heat. If your August weather is hot, cool the soil before sowing seeds by keeping it moist and shading it. Sow more seeds than you typically would to counteract the lower germination rate. Good carrot varieties for faster growing and fall harvests include ‘Romeo’ or ‘Scarlet Nantes’ from Tomorrow Seeds, available from Walmart, which can be harvested 60 days from sowing.

4. Spinach

Spinach also fits the bill for a crop that grows quickly and loves the cooler weather of fall, making it another of the best vegetables to plant in August. When August is very hot, you might struggle to get spinach going, but if the end of the month is starting to get a little cooler, go ahead and sow some spinach seeds. You can have baby greens in about four weeks and mature plants that won’t bolt in six to eight weeks.

Good spinach varieties to start in August include ‘Amazon’ and ‘Mikado’ as they are less likely to bolt in summer temperatures. If you do have warm weather and you are deciding what vegetables to plant in August, you should also try New Zealand or ‘Malabar’ spinach, available from Burpee, for both heat and humidity tolerance.

5. Swiss Chard

This is another green you can start growing now for a quick harvest. Baby greens will be ready to harvest in as little as four weeks, depending on the variety. It will only take about 60 days to get fully mature chard greens. Chard is also great for growing this time of year because it tolerates light frosts but also the heat of summer.

While your spinach might struggle to get going if the weather is still hot, chard will be just fine. One fine chard variety for August sowing is ‘Fordhook Giant’, a cool season classic for ‘cut and come again’ harvesting through fall. Another gorgeous looking option for a late summer planting is ‘Bright Lights’, available from Nature Hills, with its rainbow of stems which can be harvested until winter.

6. Broccoli and Cauliflower

Broccoli and cauliflower both have long maturity times, as long as 100 days. On the other hand, they are among the most cold tolerant vegetables. They tolerate frosts and even light to moderate freezes, including temperatures down to about 26 degrees Fahrenheit (-3°C).

They can still be planted now in many areas, even if they won’t mature before the first average frost. There are some delicious broccoli varieties available at Burpee that can be sown in August for an autumn harvest. These include heirloom ‘Waltham 29’ and tender purple ‘Sprouting Burgundy’ varieties. For succession sowings of cauliflower, try ‘All The Year Round’ and ‘Snowball Y’, also from Walmart.

7. Kale

Kale belongs to the same family of vegetables (brassicas) as broccoli and cauliflower, and has a similar cold tolerance. In fact, kale, which some people find too bitter, begins to sweeten after it experiences a frost or two. Maturity times for kale range from 50 to 80 days. Choose a variety that suits your growing zone and expected frost times. Be sure to choose the right type of kale for eating, too.

Cool season favorites include ‘Red Russian’ and ‘Cavalo Nero’ from Tomorrow Seeds, available at Walmart. Ornamental kales have become increasingly popular as fall decorations. These are fun to grow, and are edible, but won’t taste as good.

8. Herbs

Many herbs bolt in the heat of summer, so now is a good time to sow seeds for another batch, especially if you grow in containers. Most herbs don’t take long to grow enough leaves for harvesting. If you start them now, you should be able to enjoy a fall harvest of basil, cilantro, dill, and other herbs without worrying that they’ll bolt and become inedible.

There are some exquisite basil varieties available from Burpee that would make excellent options for August planting. ‘Genovese’ and ‘San Remo’ are easygoing and quick to develop, whilst ‘Emerald Towers’ is a great late summer sowing for containers, raised beds and small spaces. And if you love Cilantro, sowing some ‘Calypso’ from Burpee is a great option as it is the least likely to bolt in summer.

Germinating seeds in paper towel used to be a popular way to test seeds for viability. But more and more people are using this method to start all their seeds every time. And why not? It’s faster and easier, and you need very little equipment.

Learning how to germinate seeds differs from plant to plant, but the paper towel method has a high success rate for a wide variety of seed types. Use it to start seeds indoors for vegetable and flower sowing, rather than in plastic trays filled with potting mix. When the seeds begin to sprout in the paper towels, you can pot them on individually.

Paper Towel Method Explained

Rather than planting seeds into soil, the paper towel method involves germinating seeds between two moist paper towels and covering them with plastic wrap or a dome to create a greenhouse effect. It is a simplified way to germinate seeds quickly before moving them to pots. There are several other benefits, too:

• It gives you a chance to test seed viability at the same time.
• Germinating seeds in paper towels vs soil allows you to quickly check the seeds for root development. When seeds are started in soil, you only see the growth above the soil line.
• There is less mess, less expense, and less time spent waiting for germination.
• If the paper towels begin to dry out, you can spray them easily with a mister.
• It is a fun project for kids to do because they can watch the root formation. In that case, put the seeds on the outside of the paper towels, rather than the inside, so the growth is visible.

How to Germinate Seeds in a Paper Towel​

For seeds to germinate, they generally need warmth, moisture, and either light or darkness. This can be easily accomplished by sprouting seeds in paper towels.

Here are the key steps to try this fast and effective seed-starting method:

1. Prepare Growing Container

You will need either a plastic container or a gallon-size plastic bag with a ziploc top. Lay down a moist paper towel inside the plastic container. For a small number of seeds, you can use one moist paper towel folded in half inside a sandwich bag.

2. Add Seeds

Line the towel with the desired number of seeds. Lay another moist paper towel on top of the seeds. Either loosely close the bag or cover your container with plastic wrap, a plastic lid, or a humidity dome – such as this option with grow lights, available on Amazon. Label the bags or trays with the seed names.

3. Check Growing Conditions

Look at the seed packet information to determine whether the seeds need light to germinate. If so, place them near a south window in a warm room, 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C). If the seeds require darkness to germinate, place the seeds in a drawer or cupboard. For more warmth, you can place the bag or tray on a heat mat covered with a thin towel.

4. Monitor Seeds

Check the seeds every couple of days for germination. If the paper towels begin to dry out, spray them with a water mister. To prevent mold, open the bag every two days for a few minutes to allow air to circulate.

How long to germinate seeds in a paper towel​ depends on the seed variety. Check the length of time designated on the seed packet for the “days to germination.” Seeds typically germinate faster between paper towels than in seed starting mix, so check them every other day.

5. Transplant Seeds

To decide when to transplant seeds from paper towel​, keep an eye out for signs of growth. As soon as growth is visible, you can carefully transfer them to individual pots of moist soil to grow. A toothpick or tweezers may help move the seedlings to the pots.

Plant seedlings so the entire root is below the soil. You can use a pencil to make a hole in the growing mix.

If you wait too long before transplanting seedlings, the roots will grow into the paper towel. If this happens, cut out the towel around the root and plant it with the seedling. To help prevent this, you can use a coffee filter instead of a paper towel.

The pots can be placed near a sunny window or under grow lights for 16 hours a day till they are ready to move outdoors.

Mold on Germinating Seeds in Paper Towel​

Prevent mold on seeds by opening the bag every two days and letting it air out. Also, do not seal the bag tightly. If you see mold beginning to grow on a seed, gently scrape it off with a toothpick or discard the seed to prevent spreading the mold.

Can You Germinate Any Seeds in Paper Towel?

You would not germinate seeds in paper towels that need to be seeded into the ground – continue to direct sow seeds such as root vegetables, including carrots, radishes, beets, and parsnips.

Some seeds to try include tender vegetables, fruits, and flowers – anything you would grow in a seed tray each year.

More Seed Starting Inspiration

• Learn when to start seeds indoors for more crops and a glorious profusion of flowers all summer long.
• Discover how to grow a windowsill full of veggies this winter, according to a leading gardening expert.
• Join our seed-starting workshop to unlock your garden’s full potential by learning the ins and outs of starting all of your favorite plants from seed.

In the dead of winter, it can feel like forever until the start of spring planting season. So, why not get a head start on your flower beds and vegetable garden by winter sowing seeds outside? While not all seeds can be successfully sown in the coldest months, certain plants will thrive when started at this time

If you haven’t tried planting seeds in winter, you may be surprised to learn that you can sow certain seeds in pots and let them sit outdoors all season, even if your climate experiences more than its fair share of freezing temperatures, rain, and snow. However, you shouldn't direct sow seeds into the ground now – you will need to protect the young seedlings under a cover, such as a cold frame, small DIY greenhouse, cloche, or hoop house.

Starting seeds indoors is a better option if you want to extend the growing season to include more tender plants, but not all growers have room for lots of seed trays in the house. Even if you do have room, perhaps you don't get enough light and don’t want to invest in grow lights. So it pays to know which seeds are compatible with winter sowing.

Benefits of Winter Sowing Seeds

There are numerous benefits to winter sowing seeds outside:

• Winter-sown seeds tend to be more resilient in the long run than seeds started indoors in the spring.
• Sowing early can give you a jump start on more hardy crops, and extend the bloom season of many flowers.
• Winter sowing also gets rid of the need to stratify seeds that require a chilling period. The cold weather does it for you and then prompts germination as temperatures warm and days lengthen.

What You Need to Start

Sowing seeds in the winter is simple and only requires a few things. First, you will need a cold frame or mini greenhouse. You don't need to spend much money as you can repurpose recyclable clear to opaque plastic containers. Try starting seeds in milk jugs or use large soda bottles to make a plastic bottle greenhouse. All you need to do is save them once empty after grocery trips.

Along with this, you will need a sharp knife, awl, or other hole-punching device to make drainage holes, and a marker to label your greenhouse.

Unless using an all-in-one mini greenhouse, you will need some seed pots or trays. You can make DIY seed starter pots or invest in seedling trays.

You will also require a potting mix to plant your seeds. The choice is yours: either make your own blend or use a good quality, well-draining potting soil or soilless seed-starting mix. Do not use garden soil or regular compost.

Lastly, of course, you will need seeds suitable for starting in the winter months.

Seeds That Grow in Winter

The ability to grow your own food doesn't stop in winter. Many indoor vegetables can be grown in pots or in a winter windowsill garden, but starting seeds outside in winter expands your options. Cold-weather crops like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, leeks, lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard should be on your winter sowing seed list.

Native flowers like black-eyed Susan, evening primrose, liatris, lobelia, milkweed, penstemon, purple coneflowers, and more thrive in cooler winter temperatures. Annual flowers such as bachelor buttons, nasturtiums, pansies, violas, and snapdragons are other seeds to plant in winter.

Perennial plants like blanket flowers, calendula, delphiniums, dianthus, nicotiana, phlox, poppy, and salvia can also be started in the winter, as can most herbs.

How to Sow Seeds in Winter

Before sowing winter seeds, read the seed packet information to check they are suitable for starting at this time. Avoid any tender or heat-loving plants or crops – these can be started indoors in late winter or spring.

Seed germination can’t happen for most plants in temperatures below 50°F (10°C), but your mini greenhouse or cold frame will significantly warm the soil and air.

Pick your recycled plastic container of choice. We’ll use a gallon milk jug as an example. Clean it well and poke holes in the bottom of the jug for drainage. Then simply cut almost through the center of the jug; leave a bit of the container attached to the bottom to form a hinge.

Fill the bottom half of the jug with 3 inches (8cm) of potting or soilless mix. Make sure the soil is slightly moist, not sodden. Sow the seeds according to the packet instructions.

Reattach the top with duct tape or similar. Label and date the jug and place it outside in an area of full sun that will receive rain through the top hole but that is also protected from harsh winds that can knock it over.

For more in-depth information on starting seeds, learn the ins and outs of planting your favorite varieties in our seed-starting workshop.

How to Care for Winter Seedlings

Keep an eye on the greenhouse for any sign of seedlings. When they emerge, even if it is still snowing outside, the interior of the greenhouse can get hot enough to wilt the tender shoots. You may need to open it during the day but be sure to close it in the evening.

Once temperatures have warmed in the spring, the top can definitely be removed during the day and then placed back on at night.

Thinning seedlings is necessary if they are growing too close together and are competing for space and nutrients in the soil. Simply pull or cut away the weaker seedlings to give the stronger plants more room to establish roots.

You can transplant seedlings into their final garden positions when they are about 2-3 inches (5-8cm) tall and when the danger of frost has passed.

Do You Have to Water Winter Seedlings?

You will need to occasionally water winter seedlings, but not usually early on. It is a good idea to continue to monitor the container as it may not get enough water through the hole at the top. When temperatures have warmed in the spring, you will likely need to supplement the water.

How Long Do Winter Seeds Take to Grow?

Timing varies depending upon the species and the weather but never fear, Mother Nature has things well in hand. When temperatures warm appropriately and the days lengthen, the seeds will germinate and begin to grow.

More Seed-Starting Inspiration

• Grow your most glorious garden yet with these 8 flower seeds to start in January​.
• Kickstart your organic vegetable garden with the 7 best vegetables to plant in January.
• Discover when to start seeds indoors for bigger harvests and more beautiful blooms.
• Learn how to grow a windowsill full of veggies this winter, according to a top gardening expert.

When it's time to start gardening in spring, a decision has to be made about what plants to install as transplants, and which to direct sow. Direct sowing has several disadvantages, but also a few bonuses. What does direct sow mean? To direct sow seeds means planting directly into the garden bed where the plant will remain. 

Direct Sowing Info

Many varieties of plant seedlings perform best if they are transplanted. These include long season plants such as tomatoes and peppers. In northern zones, plants which take a long time to mature should be transplanted if any chance of fruiting or flowering should be achieved by the time the season ends. But direct seeding works for short season plants such as lettuce. Deciding between direct sowing and transplanting will depend upon plant type and zone. 

What Does Direct Sow Mean? 

Plants are started from seed, cuttings, tubers, bulbs, rhizomes, and other methods. Seeded plants, such as vegetables, may be direct sown or grown indoors for transplant. Direct seeding is the practice of planting seed into prepared garden soil, where the plant will live out its life span. Many cool season crops such as snow peas, grow best when direct seeded. However, if sown too early, the soil is too cool and will slow germination. Plants with large seeds also seem to perform best when directly sown. Squash and corn are two good examples, although they can be started indoors and planted out. But directly seeded plants grow thicker stems, broader root systems, and are generally more resilient than transplants. 

How to Direct Sow Seeds

Seed packets will give the gardener a good idea of when to sow seed. Your zone will represent the timing for planting seed. A general rule of thumb is to sow when all danger of frost has passed, although cool season seeds may still germinate and take off even when a freeze is possible. Protect seedlings if a freeze is expected with row covers or frost cloth. Prepare garden beds by removing weeds, rocks, and other impediments. If necessary, add compost or other amendments to increase tilth and nutrient availability. Follow the directions on the seed packet for planting depth and light requirements. Some seed is best sown on the top of the soil, but most needs some soil over the seeds to keep them moist and enhance germination. 

Care After Direct Seeding

Water after seeding and keep the soil moderately moist, but not soggy. Avoid overwatering as this can cause damping off and soil gnats. For some plants, a heat conducting plastic mulch can increase growth. Organic mulches such as leaf litter also conserve moisture and compost in gently and slowly, providing nutrients. Fertilize plants with a diluted plant food appropriate for that variety after they have several pairs of true leaves. Alternately, you can side dress plants with well rotted compost, bone meal, or other natural rich additives. Directly seeded plants may need to be pinched to keep them compact, and provided with stakes or cages. 

Get a jump start on your annual beds by planting seeds in fall. You will not only save money on plants, but fall-seeded plants bloom sooner than spring-seeded plants.

By selecting flowers that do well in your region, preparing a seed bed, and planting at the right time in the fall or winter, you can create a beautiful flower border that will reseed itself year after year. Depending on your location, you may also be able to enjoy tasty veggies late in the season too.

Choosing Plants for Fall Sowing

Selecting plants for autumn seed planting will depend on the region where you live. Do some research before starting to find out which annuals, perennials, wildflowers, and grasses perform well in your area.

If in doubt, try it out! Some flowers tend to do well in most areas and are suitable for autumn seed planting. Those plants include the following:

• Black-Eyed Susan
• Forget Me Not
• Hollyhocks
• Larkspur
• Columbine
• Poppies
• Penstemon
• Purple Coneflower
• Snapdragon
• Perennial Sunflower
• Sweet William

Choose other annuals and perennials by whether they easily self-sow. Also, plants that need cold stratification as indicated on the seed packet are typically good choices for autumn seed planting. Seed packets often say whether the seeds can be planted in fall.

There are a number of cold season crops that can be planted during fall as well in suitable climates. These may include:

• Onions
• Garlic
• Lettuce
• Leafy Greens
• Brussel Sprouts
• Peas
• Radishes
• Chard

After selecting the plants for fall sowing, be sure to buy seeds from a reputable seed catalog or retail center. It may be hard to find seeds in the garden centers in fall, but online sources will be available. If you plan ahead, when spring shopping for seeds, buy your seed packets to plant in the fall as well. Be wary of individuals selling seeds online, you may not get what you expect.

Prepping for Planting Seeds in Fall

Prepare the bed as you would for any planting. Choose a sunny site and remove grass and weeds, if needed. That can be done by solarization in the summer or by spraying with an herbicide. Rake off the dead grass, weeds and rocks. You can loosen the soil a bit with a hand tool or tiller, but it’s best not to disturb the soil too deeply or weed seeds will erupt. Add a layer of compost on top, then you are ready to plant seeds.

Some seeds may require light to germinate and others may need darkness. Follow the instructions on the seed packet for sowing.

If you are starting a wildflower garden, mix your seeds with sand and broadcast over the planting area. Firm the seeds into the soil by walking over the area.

When to Sow Seeds in Autumn

If you live in an area that experiences cold winters, do not sow the seeds until after a killing frost. You want the seeds to bed down for the winter and sprout in spring. Planting too early in the fall may cause the seeds to start growing, then when cold weather arrives, seedlings will freeze. If you do spot a seedling emerging early, be sure to cover it with mulch.

In warm-winter locations, it is best to time the sowing right before the rainy season, usually around late fall or winter.

Come spring, seedlings should emerge and, soon thereafter, a colorful array of flowers.

Peperomia plants, also known as radiator plants, are a type of plant found in tropical and subtropical regions of the world. These beautiful plants have thick, succulent foliage which varies in shape and pattern. This, in tandem with their ease of growth, make them ideal candidates for use as houseplants in containers. Can you grow peperomia from seed though?

About Peperomia Seed Propagation

Those wishing to grow peperomia have a couple options. Most growers choose to grow them directly from transplant. Locating healthy peperomia plants online or in local garden centers should not be difficult. These transplants can be moved into pots indoors that are at least twice as wide and tall as the root ball of the plant. Large transplants grow quickly and offer stunning visual interest to their growers.

However, more adventurous gardeners may question the process of how to plant peperomia seeds. Like most ornamental plants, growing peperomia from seed may not provide the desired results. Many commercially produced cultivars of this plant are hybrids. When sowing peperomia seeds, it is possible that the plant produced will not resemble the original parent from which it was taken. For this reason, it is best to propagate peperomia through stem or leaf cuttings. This is especially true for more unique variegated types.

That being said, peperomia seed propagation is still an option for those interested in giving it a try.

Sowing Peperomia Seeds

Growing from seed can be an interesting experiment. Growers who wish to do so may have some difficulty locating a seed source. If attempting to grow peperomia from seed, only purchase from reputable sources. This will ensure the highest chance of success.

When planting peperomia seeds, germination is relatively simple. Choose your seed starting containers and fill them with a soilless seed starting mix. Sow the seeds according to package instructions. Water them well and then place them in a warm window indoors. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs.

After germination, transplant the seedlings into a container with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Peperomia grows best where it is able to receive bright, yet indirect, sunlight.

As the plant grows, make certain to avoid overwatering. Due to the plant’s succulent nature, soggy soil and pots with poor drainage may cause root rot and the demise of the plant. 

For gardeners, spring can’t come soon enough and many of us have been guilty of jumping the gun and starting our seeds way too early inside. A terrific method for starting seeds that can be done earlier is milk jug winter sowing, which is basically sowing seeds in a milk jug that becomes a mini greenhouse. Keep reading to learn about milk jug seed pots.

About Sowing Seeds in a Milk Jug

Sure, you can recycle plastic milk jugs, but a better use for them is to repurpose them for milk jug winter sowing. This is a low-maintenance way to start seeds earlier than you thought possible. The sealed jug acts as a greenhouse that allows the seeds to germinate several weeks ahead of direct sowing.

The plants are sown in their mini greenhouse outside, eliminating the need to harden seedlings off. The seeds also go through a period of stratification which is necessary for some types of seeds to germinate.

How to Make Milk Jug Seed Pots

Milk jugs are usually the preferred vehicle for this type of sowing, but you may also use any semi-transparent plastic container (apparently the semi-opaque milk containers work as well) that has room for at least 2 inches (5 cm.) of soil and at least 4 inches (10 cm.) for growth. Some other ideas are juice jugs, strawberry containers, and even rotisserie chicken containers.

Rinse out the milk jug and punch four drainage holes into the bottom. Cut the milk jug horizontally at the bottom of the handle working your way around the circumference; leave an inch (2.5 cm.) or so to act as a hinge at the handle.

How to Sow Seeds in a Milk Jug

Use either a soilless seed starting mix or a potting mix that has been sifted to remove any large chunks of bark, twigs, or rocks and has been amended with perlite, vermiculite, or, ideally, sphagnum moss. If using a potting mix, make sure it has no fertilizer which can burn the seedlings. The most ideal seed starting medium for milk jug winter sowing is 4 parts screened aged compost to 2 parts perlite or vermiculite, and 2 parts peat moss.

Fill the bottom of the jug with 2 inches (5 cm.) of slightly damp medium. Plant the seeds according to the package instructions. Replace the top of the milk jug and seal it as best you can with tape; packing tape works best. Place the containers in an area of sun outdoors.

Keep an eye on the containers. If temperatures dip, you may want to cover the jugs with a blanket at night. Water the seedlings lightly if they dry out. When temperatures hit 50-60 F. (10-16 C.), especially if it is sunny, remove the tops of the jugs so the seedlings won’t fry. Cover again in the evening.

When the seedlings have produced at least two sets of true leaves, it is time to transplant them into individual containers to allow the roots to grow and then transplant them into the garden.

What to Sow in Milk Jug Seed Pots

Seeds that require cold stratification, hardy perennials and hardy annuals, and many native plants can be started in milk jug seed pots in early to mid-winter.

Cold crops like brassicas, native plants and wildflowers that require short periods of stratification, heirloom tomatoes, and many herbs can be started using this method in late winter through early spring. Tender annuals and summer vegetable crops that require warmer temps to germinate and don’t reach maturity until late summer (tomatoes, peppers, basil) can also be started in milk jugs during this time or later.

Information on seed packets will also help you to figure out which seeds should be planted when. ‘Direct sow after all danger of frost has passed’ becomes code for planting in late winter/early spring, and ‘start indoors 3-4 weeks before average last frost” means sow in milk jugs in mid to later winter, while “sow 4-6 weeks before average last frost” indicates planting time in early to mid-winter.

Lastly, but most importantly, remember to clearly label your pots as you sow them with waterproof ink or paint.

Since fresh ginseng can be hard to come by and expensive, wanting to grow your own ginseng plants is a logical wish. However, it can take up to three or more years before the roots are ready to harvest, so a bit of know-how is needed to reap the benefits of this helpful herb. Keep reading to learn how to plant ginseng seeds and what particular circumstances these helpful roots require.

What Is Ginseng?

American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius) is often compared to ginger, but its complex flavor is a trait of its own. A similarly zingy and spicy root, ginseng is a native North American plant. It is found in the deciduous forests of the eastern North America. Ginseng was one of the first American exported herbs, with much of the crop going to China. During the 1970s, it was over-harvested and is not as prevalent as before. American ginseng is similar to Asian ginseng, a wild crop in northern Manchuria.

About Ginseng Propagation

It's possible to forage for ginseng seed but be cautious, as many crops are proprietary or under protection. Ginseng is a threatened species in places like Virginia, where it is illegal to harvest wild stands.

The sweet licorice flavor of the herb makes it a popular and expensive commodity. Ginseng is also purported to have various health benefits and is essential for various Asian medicines. It is commonly found dried in health food or supplement stores, but getting hold of fresh roots can be tricky unless you have a good Asian market nearby.

A better way to get ginseng seeds for planting is to order them. Several reputable sites exist online, or specialty nurseries may carry the seed. The plants may also be started from roots, but they're usually grown from seed. Starting with roots results in a faster plant and earlier harvest, but is more costly than growing from seed.

Ginseng is a shade-loving perennial whose seeds need several specialized conditions before germination is possible. For example, ginseng drops its berries, but they don't sprout until the following year. The berries don't sprout because they need to lose their flesh, and the seeds need to experience a period of cold.

The home grower can mimic this stratification process in their garden or greenhouse. Purchased seeds have already had their flesh removed and may already be stratified. It is best to check with the seller to determine if this is the case; otherwise, you must stratify seeds yourself.

How to Grow Ginseng from Seed

There are two main methods to grow ginseng: field-grown and wild-grown. Field-grown ginseng is produced under shade and takes more effort than wild-grown methods. Field-grown plants are also considerably less profitable due to lower quality crops and a need for a significant expenditure to purchase shade covers.

Wild-grown ginseng requires ownership of woodland, where cultivation mimics the natural propagation. It is cautioned to select the site carefully to protect the crop from poachers. You should pick the best method of growth based on the availability of resources, such as space, time, and money, and your purpose (profit vs. personal).

Ginseng Seed Growing Conditions

Ginseng prefers north and east-facing locations on slopes with good drainage. There should be 70-90 percent tree canopy shade for optimal results. The site should be free of competitive understory plants and have generous airflow, which means removing the lower branches of selected plants to encourage air movement. The average annual soil temperature should be 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C), and receive 40 to 50 inches (101-127 cm.) of rainfall annually.

Stratifying Ginseng Seeds

Stratification is necessary, or the seed may not germinate. If your seed has yet to be stratified, the process is relatively easy but will add to the long germination period, which can take up to 18 months. First, make sure your seed is viable. They should be firm and off-white to tan in color with no odor. Next, soak your unstratified seeds in formaldehyde followed by fungicide. Then bury the seed outside in moist sand, or put it in the refrigerator. The seed must experience cold temperatures for 18 to 22 months before planting in the autumn or early winter. If you receive seed outside of the planting period, store it in the refrigerator until planting time.

How to Plant and Care for Ginseng Seeds

The best time to plant is in the fall to early winter. Wild-grown planting is as simple as scratching up the soil and distributing seeds at a rate of 4-5 seeds per foot (0.3 m) and 1 ½ inches (4 cm) deep. Select a site with no weeds in at least partial shade where the soil drains well. It is a good idea to plant in successive years to allow for the harvest of roots consistently. After sowing the seed, cover it with a layer of leaf litter. Hand weed and mulch around the plants as they sprout. The first-year plants look nothing like mature ginseng, so it is advisable to familiarize yourself with their appearance to avoid weeding out the seedlings.

Ginseng will do well if left alone. You only need to keep weeds away from the bed and ensure the soil is moderately moist. As the plants develop, keep watch for slugs and other pests and fungal issues—thin plants to 2 per square foot (0.09 square m) to prevent overcrowding and ensure good airflow. There are also several recommended pesticides for use. Check with your extension office for fungicide recommendations.

The rest relies upon patience. Ginseng is harvested in the third year after seeding. Dig up roots, wash them, and dry them on racks. Store well-dried ginseng roots in a dry, rodent-proof container.

Mandrake is a fascinating plant with a rich history that dates back to Biblical times. The long, human-like root is often implemented as a medicinal herb. It is highly valued in certain religious ceremonies and in modern-day witchcraft. If you live in a warm climate (USDA zones 6 to 8), you can plant mandrake outdoors. In cooler climates, mandrake should be grown indoors.

Mandrake plants generally take about two years to mature, bloom, and produce berries. Mandrake root can be harvested after three to four years. Sowing mandrake seeds isn’t difficult, but don’t expect 100 percent success, as germination can be hit and miss. Read on for information on mandrake seed propagation.

How to Grow Mandrake from Seed

Purchase mandrake seeds from an herbal supply store or reputable online nursery. Otherwise, harvest seeds from ripe fruit in autumn. Fresh seeds should be planted within six months.

Mandrake seeds must be stratified, using a process that mimics natural winter. Fill a baggie or plastic container with moist sand, then bury the seeds inside. Store the seeds in the refrigerator for a month.

After stratification is complete, plant the seeds in individual containers filled with loose, good-quality potting mix or compost.

Place the containers in a warm room. As soon as the seeds germinate, place the containers under a couple of fluorescent bulbs or grow lights. Don’t depend on direct sunlight from a window, which may be too cool at night and too hot during the day.

Plant mandrake outdoors when the roots are large enough to survive on their own. Full sunlight is ideal, but the plant will tolerate light shade. Mandrake needs loose, deep soil to accommodate the roots. The soil must be well-drained to avoid rot, especially during the winter.

Planting Mandrake Seeds Outdoors

If you live in a mild climate, you can also try sowing mandrake seeds in a permanent outdoor location while the weather is cool. Germination is triggered by natural temperature fluctuations. This often works well because there is no need to disturb the roots by transplanting.

Warning about Mandrake Seed Propagation

A member of the nightshade family, mandrake is highly toxic and ingestion may cause vomiting and delirium. Large amounts can be fatal. Always seek advice from a medical professional before using herbal mandrake.

Muhly grass is a pretty, flowering native grass that grows well in warm climates throughout the southern U.S. and Pacific Northwest regions. It stands up well to a lot of conditions and requires almost no maintenance, while also producing gorgeous sprays of pink flowers. At little cost, you can grow muhly grass from seed for your yard or garden.

About Muhly Grass

Muhly grass is a native grass that is popular as an ornamental. It grows in clumps that rise to between three and five feet (1 to 1.5 meters) and spread about two to three feet (0.6 to 1 meters) across. The grass blooms profusely with purple to pink flowers that are delicate and feathery. Muhly grass is native to beaches, dunes, and flatwoods and can be grown in zones 7 through 11. This grass is popular in yards and gardens in appropriate climates for its ornamental look but also because it is low maintenance. It tolerates both drought and flooding and has no pests. Once you get it started, the only thing you might want to do to maintain muhly grass is remove dead, brown growth in early spring as new grass fills in.

How to Plant Muhly Grass Seeds

First, choose a spot that gets full sun. Muhly grass will tolerate some shade but grows best in sun. Prepare the soil by tilling it, and if necessary, mixing in compost or other organic material to enrich it and give it a better texture. Muhly grass seed germination requires light, so press the seeds down as you scatter them but don’t cover them in a layer of soil or compost. Keep the seeds moist until they sprout and grow into seedlings. You can grow muhly grass from seed by starting indoors, which helps to keep the seeds warm enough. You can then move the transplants outside when the weather is right. Sowing muhly grass seeds directly outside is fine too, as long as it is past the last frost. They will germinate best in temperatures of 60 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 20 Celsius).You may want to water occasionally during the first growing season, but otherwise you can leave your muhly grass alone and watch it thrive.

You don't have to be a fan of lamb or mojitos to love the scent and flavor of mint. Having it nearby in the garden attracts bees and allows you to access that zippy aroma and refreshing flavor for teas, seasonings, pest repellent, and even household deodorizing. Growing mint from seed is easy and the little plants really take off once installed in a garden bed. Here are a few tips on starting mint seeds so you can enjoy these fragrant herbs in your landscape.

When to Plant Mint Seeds

Mint is a culinary herb of the Mediterranean and Asian regions. It is featured prominently in many recipes from savory to sweet and even in beverages. It is a hardy perennial herb and grows quickly, often becoming invasive. There are over 3,500 varieties with special characteristics which makes variety selection important. Once you have your cultivar, sowing mint seeds at the right time will ensure a big, beautiful crop of this versatile herb. If you wish to transplant the seedlings outside in spring once soil has warmed, the seeds need to be planted in late winter. In warmer regions, they can be directly sown into prepared garden soil in mid-spring. However, because this is a hardy perennial, they can also be started any time up until two months before the first expected frost. You can also grow mint in containers and start indoors at any time. The key to growing mint from seed is well-draining soil that mimics the natural soils of the plant's native region. Mint prefers slightly acidic, moist, rich soil.

How to Plant Mint Seeds

You can start sowing mint seed in containers or flats or in prepared garden soil. Sow seeds ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep. The seeds are tiny, but you can space them with a seed injector or simply thin the seedlings once germinated. Expect germination in 10 to 15 days. Keep flats in a warm location and soil lightly moist but not soggy. A cover over the flat can speed germination. Remove it once you see sprouts. If starting mint seeds outdoors, sow seeds on the surface of prepared soil and cover with a light layer of vermiculite. Once seedlings have two sets of true leaves, harden them off and plant them into beds or outdoor containers. Once the little plants are ready to transplant, take containers outdoors and let them acclimate for a week to outdoor conditions before moving them. Water new plants regularly. Ideally, mint needs 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) of water per week during the growing season. Use drip irrigation or water in the morning to allow leaves to dry. Overly wet leaves may lead to fungal diseases. Apply fertilizer in early spring. A balanced plant food with a 16-16-16 ratio is ideal. Do not over fertilize, as it can diminish oil production and lead to disease issues. Mint can be aggressive so it may be best to plant it in containers or in an out of the way area of the garden. Alternatively, you can let it ramble around where human contact will release the oils and perfume the area with a heavenly scent.

For a pretty green groundcover that is tough, spreads readily to fill in empty spaces, and produces spring flowers, it’s tough to beat bergenia. Bergenia seed propagation is easy, so save your money and skip the transplants.

Growing Bergenia from Seed

Bergenia is a semi-evergreen perennial that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 10. It’s a great choice for home gardeners in a lot of different areas, providing a low-growing, spreading groundcover. The leaves are dark green, glossy, and heart-shaped. It spreads through its underground stems and is perfect for filling in those areas where grass is sparse, or where you just want something different. The plants grow up to about six inches (15 cm.) tall, but when they bloom, the spikes of flowers shoot up to 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 cm.). The flowers are a deep reddish-pink and grow in attractive clusters. This groundcover will give you early spring flowers and nearly year-round foliage.

How to Plant Bergenia Seeds

Propagating bergenia by seed is a great option because it is easy and inexpensive. You can use seeds to get a patch of groundcover started, or to help it spread more quickly. Before sowing bergenia seeds, be sure you have the right conditions where you intend to plant the groundcover. Bergenia thrive in full sun where summers are mild and in partial shade when summers are hot. The soil does not need to be rich, and water needs are moderate. However, if you can provide richer soil and more water, you may get more flowers. Start bergenia seeds indoors. Use a sterile starter mix and press the seeds lightly into the soil. Do not cover them with soil, as bergenia seeds need light to germinate. Bergenia germination is often uneven, but over three to six weeks you should see all the seeds germinate if the temperature is held steady around 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 24 Celsius). Keep the soil moist. When ready, plant the bergenia outdoors, spacing 15 to 18 inches (38 to 46 cm.). Knowing when to plant bergenia depends on your location and climate but should be done when the danger of frost has passed. If you have mild winters, you can start your plants in spring or fall. Just be sure to start them indoors first and then transplant outdoors.

The beautiful, bright orange and yellow flowers of the calendula add charm and cheer to beds and containers. Also known as pot marigold or English marigold, calendula is edible and has some medicinal uses. With a little extra effort, you can propagate and grow this annual from seed.

Growing Calendula from Seed

Growing calendula is easy, as this plant will tolerate a lot of different conditions. It likes full sun or partial shade, prefers well-drained soil, and tolerates frost and colder temperatures. It is deer resistant and will tolerate poor quality soil. Collecting and sowing calendula seeds is pretty easy and worth the effort to keep enjoying this flower season after season without buying transplants. After the blooms have passed, they will produce seed heads, which if left alone will lead to self-propagation and volunteer plant growth. To keep your beds tidy, trim off most of these seed heads. The self-propagation can be aggressive. Cut off spent flowers quickly, as the seed heads develop soon after the bloom is gone. Trim them off just above the next flower bud. You can leave a few to self-propagate or to develop fully for collection and sowing. The seeds develop as light brown to gray, long, and curved seeds that grow in a circle around the center of the flower. Simply collect these and save for sowing later.

When and How to Sow Calendula Seeds

Calendula grows easily and readily from seed, but there are a couple of important considerations when sowing. The first is that these cold-tolerant plants will grow weaker and smaller if you sow the seeds during warm weather. If sowing directly outdoors, put them in the ground a couple of weeks before you expect the last frost. The second important factor to note when planting calendula seeds is that light will disrupt germination. Make sure you cover the seeds with soil to a depth of about one-quarter to one-half inch (6 mm. to 1 cm.). Sowing in spring is the typical time for calendula seed propagation, but you can do it again in the summer to get more fall blooms. The plants may be weaker due to the hotter temperatures, but they will still give you extended flowering.

Zone 9 is a warm climate zone that includes parts of California, Florida, and Texas. Anyone gardening in Zone 9 has a long growing season with a few days of frost. Your garden can run the gamut from cool-season crops to heat-loving veggies, as long as you plant them at the right time. The Mediterranean climate makes living in Zone 9 easy, with dry, warm summers and mild, wet winters.

When you sit down to make a USDA Zone 9 planting schedule, knowing which veggies to plant in when to plant each crop is super important. This climate lets you grow almost anything – including veggies, fruits, herbs, and flowers. Lucky for you, seed starting in Zone 9 can much earlier than in other parts of the country which means more time for growing and harvesting!

This Zone 9 planting guide helps you understand your options for vegetables to plant each month to let you get the best annual harvest possible.

January

We start out the Zone 9 planting calendar with January, the worst of the winter weather is behind you in Zone 9. The days are starting to get longer, but they are still quite cool. Although the top growing season doesn’t begin for several months, you can sow a variety of Zone 9 plants in January.

There are a few products that can help you grow seedlings that will be strong and healthy for transplanting later. Our editors like the AC Infinity humidity dome, Vivosun heat mat, and Barrina grow lights which are available from Amazon.

February

February is a bit warmer than January. The air still holds the memory of a cool winter, but there’s enough sun to make you believe that spring is around the corner. Focus on cool-season crops like leafy greens and root vegetables.

March

Winter is supposed to exit on March 2, and in Zone 9, March means that the soil temperatures have already started to rise a bit. That means that more crops can be planted outside in the garden, and it’s time to focus on warm-season crops. You can still plant cool-season crops that grow to maturity quickly. Keep your eye on the weather, and use row covers if a late frost is expected.

April

April in Zone 9 is a gardener’s version of April in Paris. It’s the prime month for gardening in this mild hardiness zone, and a good month for beginners to get started. All chance of frost is gone, early in the month, and the spring sunshine is utterly enchanting. Focus on warm-season crops.

May

Spring is in full swing in May for those in Zone 9. Outdoor gardens are thriving with some veggies already ready for harvest. When planting, focus on veggies that like summer warmth because it has arrived or is coming.

June

June is almost summer, with hotter weather. Now’s the time to plant heat-loving, warm season veggies and keeping an eye out for pests. You can also succession plant cool-season favorites like beets for fall harvest.

July

July in Zone 9 is big, bold, and dramatic. The sun is hot, pests are aplenty, irrigation a must. This is a month of abundance, and all of the warm-season crops thrive but you can’t stint on irrigation! Try getting up early to enjoy a morning in the cool of the garden while watering your crops.

August

August is the official end of summer but it’s still sunny and hot. You can plant both warm-season veggies for a late crop and root veggies, and heat-tolerant crops like okra. It’s also a great moment to start seeds indoors for autumn planting.

September

There are worse places to be than in Zone 9 during September. This transitional month often offers fantastic weather, as the temperatures cool a bit and the leaves start to turn. The warm days and cool nights are excellent for garden work without all the stress and heat of summer.

October

In October, Zone 9 is in transition, moving away from the hot, dry summer to cooler, wetter fall temperatures. But everyday isn’t chilly – days can still be warm, making it a little tricky for fall crops. This is a great month for planting cool-season vegetables, especially leafy greens. It’s also a fine time to put in an herb garden.

November

For Zone 9 gardeners, November is not the end of the garden. Those who live in colder climates are putting away the tools, but in Zone 9, you can still sow seeds and prune your perennials. This month can be productive and full of contradictions, but it’s still fine to plant leafy greens, root veggies and legumes.

December

December is winter, but in Zone 9, it may not look like winter. It’s a sort of second planting season since you can sow leafy greens, root vegetables and legumes. It’s not toasty warm but the soil is warm enough for seeds to grow. And if you’re dreaming of tomatoes, never fear – spring is just around the corner.

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Cotton plants have flowers that resemble hibiscus and seed pods that you can use in dried arrangements. Your neighbors will ask about this attractive and unique garden plant, and they won’t believe it when you tell them what you’re growing. Find out how to sow cotton seeds in this article.

Cotton Seed Planting

Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.

Cotton Seed Placement

Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches (91 cm.) deep. It helps to work an inch (2.5 cm.) or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don't have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.

How to Plant a Cotton Seed

Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of three, spacing them 4 inches (10 cm.) apart. Cover them with about an inch (2.5 cm.) of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least 6 inches (15 cm.). You shouldn't have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.

Grape hyacinth seeds are a cheap way to fill a yard with those little bell flowers that pop up in spring with purple, blue or even white spikes. Bulbs bloom quickly, but they can hit the wallet hard. Seeds can take a little more time, but the upside is that they save you money and deliver a custom muscari carpet that feels like a quiet brag. These beauties are perfect for gardeners who dig the slow magic of growing from scratch and saving a little moolah on the side.

These scrappy yet charismatic plants thrive in USDA zones 4-8, where the cold winters give them the boost they need to kickstart into life and flourish. Figuring out their preferences is all you need to learn for perfect grape hyacinth care. It’s not something you can rush, admittedly, but the results are worth savoring in the long haul from seed to bloom. Find out how to plant muscari seeds and create thrifty spring displays with real character.

Why Grow Grape Hyacinth From Seed?

Muscari seeds are a gardener’s steal. Spring bulb gardens can cost a fortune, but the seeds – nabbed from spent blooms – are basically free. Grape hyacinths are lovely for blanketing borders, patching bare spots, clustering in containers, or swapping with friends who love spring color bursts. Seeds taken from the grape hyacinth seed pod let you run the show. You just have to pick the best to dodge disease and any issues that fall-planted bulbs sometimes bring in.

A clever trick is to mix your grape hyacinths with crocuses or early tulips for a spring display that lasts for weeks, blending naturally and vibrantly like old pals. So what’s the catch, you may be wondering? Well, growing grape hyacinth from seed is not a fast process. Muscari flowers take 2-3 years to burst through, so you need a fair bit of patience. In the interim, the delicate strappy foliage can still provide coverage for exposed soil areas and support moisture retention and weed suppression. In time, you will have a carpet of gorgeous tiny purple-blue or white floral clusters.

When to Plant Muscari Seeds

There are two ways to plant grape hyacinth seeds. You can start them indoors, or plant them outside in a cold frame. If you are starting plants outside and using nature to provide the required chilling period, fall is when to plant muscari seeds. Timing is crucial when growing grape hyacinth from seed. September to November is the best bet, when the soil is cool and ready for a winter rest. Aim for soil around 50-60°F (10-16°C), where these bulbs settle in cozy. Check frost forecasts in September. Sprinkle seeds a few weeks before the first cold snap to let them nestle in. Spring is fine if you’re stuck, but it delays blooms for a year, so fall is better

If you are planting indoors, you just need to stick the seeds in the refrigerator for approximately 3 months to mimic what they would get outdoors. Tuck seeds in a damp paper towel before you stash them in the fridge. This fake winter nap wakes up stubborn seeds for better sprouting. It’s important to give them this chilling period before you can sow them. After that three months, you can start them.

Planting Muscari Seeds Indoors

For indoor seed starting, grab a seed tray or pots with holes in the bottom. My go-to are these Gardzen 5-Set Seed Starter Tray Kits with Domes from Amazon. They have a nice lid to keep up the humidity. A loose, gritty potting mix is perfect for indoor starts. Mix potting soil with a scoop of gritty sand (three parts to one) for the loose, crumbly dirt these seeds love. Toss seeds a quarter-inch (0.6 cm) deep, an inch apart, so they won’t compete over space. Dust with a thin layer of soil.

Dribble a little bit of water from a watering can to moisten, but not flood the seeds. Then tuck them in a chilly, bright corner, like a shed window, and leave at 50-60°F (10-16°C). Keep soil damp, like a wrung-out rag instead of a puddle, or the seeds will rot quickly. You can add in a little finely crushed eggshells to boost calcium.

Keep the tray or flat covered with a clear lid until you see sprouts. This will happen in 6-8 weeks. Remove the cover and keep plants lightly moist in a brightly lit area.

Planting Grape Hyacinth Seeds Outdoors

If you are planting out in cold frames, use well-draining soil in small pots or flats. Sow following the above instructions, then place the pots or trays in the cold frame. Remember to open the lid of cold frames in spring and let the little plants acclimate to outside conditions. You can continue to grow them in the cold frame, or transplant them carefully the following spring.

If you want to grow muscari from seed with outdoor beds, rake a sunny or half-shady spot loose, 6 inches (15cm) deep. A great option is the Garden Guru Stainless Steel Hand Rake Tiller With Ergonomic Handle from Amazon, which loosens soil and prepares it for your muscari. Flick seeds a quarter-inch down. You also need the soil pH to be 6-7 to keep roots from being unhappy. If you are unsure, you can test the soil using a soil meter like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon.

Mark the planting site with pebbles to help keep tabs on things. Depending on your taste, this can be discreet or something fancy. You can get cobalt blue tumble stones like Fire Glass Luster Beads from Amazon which resemble the color of purple-blue grape hyacinth flowers. Spread a wispy layer of chopped leaves for mulch to shield from winter. You can even toss in used tea leaves for a root boost. Water lightly, then let the fall rains do their thing – or keep lightly moist.

Caring for Your Muscari Seedlings

Spring brings seedlings like tiny grass blades. Set them in bright, indirect light and water when the soil’s top feels dry. If they’re packed tight, thin to 2 inches (5cm) apart for room to breathe. A fine-spout watering can keep them from washing out.

Sprinkle a pinch of bone meal fertilizer on the dirt. This gives the roots a phosphorus kick that muscari seedlings crave. You can buy Burpee Organic Bone Meal Fertilizer from Amazon. Slugs love the young plants, so be sure and scatter some Harris Diatomaceous Earth 4lb from Amazon, or apply a slug deterrent such as a slug pub to block these slimy pests.

Transplanting Grape Hyacinth Seeds

During the second spring, seedlings will be sturdy enough for their final spot. Dig holes 2-3 inches (5-7.6 cm) deep in a sunny or partial shade bed. Use a trowel or dibber to prepare the planting holes. You can get Stainless Steel Long Handled Trowels with Wooden Handles from Burpee.

Make sure this is loose, well-draining soil. Space them 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) apart for that thicker, carpet-style arrangement. Water well after tucking them in. Try planting them near daffodils for a spring color pop – their taller blooms don’t crowd. Check drainage, because soggy soil kills these bulbs faster than a deep freeze.

Harvesting Grape Hyacinth Seeds

All you really need for muscari seed planting is a spent crop of the plants in your landscape or your neighbor's lot. To get grape hyacinth seeds, wait for late spring when the blooms fade into pods. Snip them when they are brown, but not split, around May or June. Dry them in a paper bag for a week, then shake out the tiny black seeds. There are usually three seeds produced by each flower.

Store seeds in a cloth sack, not plastic, to avoid mold. Buy Leafico Organic Cotton Bags from Amazon. Keep your seeds cool and dry until fall. This keeps the seed cycle spinning for more free plants.

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Cotyledons may be one of the first visible signs a plant has germinated, but what is a cotyledon? It is the embryonic part of a seed which stores fuel for further growth.

Seeds are the earliest part of the plant life cycle and cotyledons are seed leaves which fall off a plant within a few days of sprouting. There are cotyledons on plants that grow above the soil and photosynthetic. They take in the light and feed the plant so it can grow. There are also hypogeal cotyledons which remain under the soil but serve the same purpose.

These unique plant parts are a crucial step of plant emergence after germination. Cotyledons help the new plant store energy to grow. Let's dig in and explore more.

Types of Cotyledons

You can study hypogeal cotyledons by viewing a split peanut. The cotyledon is the two halves of the peanut we eat as a snack! Photosynthetic cotyledons are those first little leaves that appear when seedlings sprout and will look quite dissimilar from the true leaves of the plant. They eventually fall off when the true leaves come in.

Scientists use the number of cotyledons to classify plants. A monocot has only one cotyledon and a eudicot has two. Corn is a monocot and has an endosperm, embryo, and single cotyledon. Beans can be easily split in half and each side will bear a cotyledon, endosperm, and embryo. Both forms are considered flowering plants, but the blooms are not always evident.

Monocot vs. Eudicot Seed Leaves

The number of cotyledons in a seed is the basis for classifying any plant in the angiosperm or flowering plant group. There are a few fuzzy exceptions where a plant cannot simply be designated monocot or eudicot simply by its number of cotyledons, but these are rare. Magnolia trees are ancient and an example of this oddity.

When a eudicot emerges from the soil, it has two seed leaves whereas a monocot will bear only one. Most monocot leaves are long and narrow while dicots come in a wide range of sizes and shapes. Flowers and seed pods of monocots tend to come in parts of three while dicots have three or five petals and seed heads come in a host of forms.

Trillium, orchids, tulips, lilies, daffodils, and irises are examples of flowering monocots. Corn, wheat, sugarcane, and bamboo are agricultural monocots.

Roses, daisies, petunias, pansies, geraniums, and sunflowers are examples of flowering eudicots. Apple trees, tomatoes, beans, peas, and mint are other eudicots you may grow.

When Do Cotyledons Fall Off?

Photosynthetic cotyledons remain on the plant until the first true leaves appear and can begin to perform photosynthesis. This is generally just a few days and then the seed leaves fall off. They remain to help direct the energy stored in the seed to new growth, but once the plant is self-sufficient, they are no longer needed.

Similarly, the hypogeal cotyledons that remain under soil are also directing stored energy from the seed and will wither when no longer needed. Some plants’ cotyledons persist for up to a week, but most are gone by the time the first two true leaves are evident.

Shop Seed Starting Essentials

Vegetables can be planted indoors or outdoors. Normally, when you plant seeds indoors, you'll need to harden the seedlings off and transplant them into your garden later. So which vegetables are best started inside, and which are best to direct sow in the garden? Read on for information on where to sow vegetable seeds.

Starting Seeds Indoors vs. Direct Sowing Outside

Depending on the particular crop planted, gardeners can go about sowing seeds directly in the ground or starting them inside. Typically, plants that transplant well are the best candidates for vegetable seed starting indoors. These normally include the more tender varieties and heat-loving plants too. Sowing seeds indoors allows you to get a jump on the growing season. If you start your vegetable seed planting at the right time for your area, you'll have strong, vigorous seedlings ready to go into the ground once the regular growing season begins. In areas with short growing seasons, this method is ideal. Most of your root crops and cold hardy plants respond well to vegetable seed planting directly outdoors. No matter how careful one is when transplanting a young plant, there is bound to be some minor root damage. Many plants that do well directly sown do not respond well to being transplanted because of the potential root damage.

Where to Sow Vegetable Seeds and Herbs

To help get you started with where to sow vegetable seeds and common herb plants, the following list should help: