Typically, fall is the best time to plant grass seed, but early spring is a close second best. Before you run out to the store and buy a bag of seed, let’s explore the best type of grass seed to purchase. Choosing the right seed for your location and lawn condition is important so the grass survives and thrives to become a lush lawn worthy of picnics and games of tag.

It is also critical to buy good quality seed. Buying the absolute cheapest seed can seem tempting, but the germination rate will be low and you might still have patches in your lawn even after all your hard work.

Don’t wait to seed your lawn much longer, summer will be here soon and then you’ll be out of luck until fall. Here are the best types of grass seed for overseeding your type of lawn.

Grass Seed for Cool-Season Lawns

Cool-season grasses are turfgrasses that are best for lawns in the northern regions of North America. Cool-season grasses are adapted to cold winters and hot summers and actively grow when daytime air temperatures are between 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C) and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. When it gets warmer than that, they slow their growth and have limited ability to take up nutrients. Getting your cool-season grass established before warm summer temperatures is critical to the health of your lawn.

Common cool-season grasses include Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass. Scotts Turf Builder Kentucky bluegrass seed, available from Amazon, is combined with fertilizer and soil improver to improve results and grow dense, healthy turf. Scotts also offers a perennial ryegrass seed Turf Builder mix and a tall fescue seed Turf Builder mix which are both available from the Home Depot.

Grass Seed for Warm-Season Lawns

Warm-season grasses are turfgrasses that perform well in the hot conditions of the southern U.S. Unlike cool-season grasses, warm-season varieties grow during the warmer months of the year and have high heat and drought tolerance. Seeding warm-season grass should be done in the spring or summer when the threat of frost has passed, ideally when air temperatures are consistently between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21-32 C).

Common warm-season grasses include centipedegrass, Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysia grass. You can find centipedegrass seed and Bermudagrass seed from Scotts at Lowe’s. Zoysia grass and St. Augustinegrass are generally planted as sod or sod plugs since they are such great spreaders. Zoysia grass and St. Augustinegrass sod plugs can also be purchased from Lowe’s.

Grass Seed for Shady Lawns

Beautiful full-shade lawns are tough to achieve. Turfgrass needs sun. If you have an area of your yard that only gets 3-4 hours of dappled sunlight throughout the day, you should consider planting a lawn alternative.

However, there are species of grass that do better in shadier spots in the yard. Seed mixes that combine shade-tolerant types of grass are your best bet if you have a moderately shaded area. Fine fescues like creeping red fescue, hard fescue, and Chewings fescue are cool-season grasses that will work in shaded areas that have little traffic. The dense shade mixture grass seed from GreenView can be found at Lowe’s and is a mix of fescues and perennial ryegrass. St. Augustinegrass is the most shade-tolerant of the warm-season grasses.

Grass Seed for Mossy Lawns

Moss can overtake turfgrass in lawns that are compacted, have poor drainage, and acidic soil. There’s nothing wrong with moss, but if you’d rather have grass it can feel like a losing battle. Lawns in the Pacific Northwest can be particularly prone to moss infestations given the climate conditions of that region.

Gardening Know How senior manager Allie battled moss in her PNW lawn until she found success with Scotts Turf Builder Pacific Northwest mix of grass seed, available from Home Depot, that includes soil conditioners. Dethatching can also help reduce moss colonies. If moss is still a problem, you can find Scotts MossEx at the Home Depot to treat moss and fertilize grass for improved turf.

Grass Seed for High-Traffic Lawns

If you have kids or dogs zipping around your lawn all summer, you will want to purchase a good quality grass seed for high-traffic areas. There is nothing sadder than a brown, worn patch of mud in your yard under the swing when the rest of it is brilliant and lush.

In northern regions, Kentucky bluegrass will be your best choice for high-traffic lawns as it is resilient and grows quickly (this high-traffic mix from Scotts at Home Depot fits the bill). In the south, Bermudagrass is the toughest grass for your climate and Bermudagrass seed can be purchased from Lowe’s.

Aerating a compacted, high-traffic lawn can also help improve the turf. Aeration is the process of removing small plugs of soil to allow air, water, and nutrients to reach grass roots more easily. You can hire a professional service to aerate your lawn or use a Garden Weasel manual core aerator, available from Amazon, for a smaller area that has become compacted.

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Controlling tall fescue, especially in the lawn, is a is a difficult task. The thick root masses are nearly impossible to pull and mowing only encourages growth of this aggressive plant. If you're wondering how to get rid of tall fescue in your lawn, read on for tips and suggestions.

About Tall Fescue Weeds

Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) was introduced to North America by European settlers who planted it to provide hardy, nutritious forage for livestock. Since the plant remains green even in dry conditions, it was widely planted in the 1990’s to replace thirsty Kentucky bluegrass in drought-ravaged regions.

Tall fescue weeds are opportunistic, popping up in disturbed habitats, including along roadsides and railroad tracks, in pastures and abandoned fields, and sometimes along streambanks. It tolerates a wide range of soils and moisture conditions.

Although it was initially planted with only the best intentions in mind, tall fescue has naturalized into many parks and other public areas in the United States and southern Canada, where it competes with native species. It is considered an invasive species in many regions.

How to Get Rid of Tall Fescue

Tall fescue weeds emerge in early spring and reach maturity by late summer. The clumps of wide leaved grass may form new growth in autumn and will remain green all winter in mild climates. Although pulling the weed is next to impossible, you may be able to dig seedlings and isolated clumps early in the season.

We recommend researching the most environmentally-friendly products on the market for removing stubborn weeds like tall fescue. There are increasingly more organic products on the market that may be helpful. Check with your local cooperative extension office for more information on tall fescue management

Removing thatch in a lawn is an important, although infrequent, part of lawn maintenance. In the case of thatch in zoysia grass, very little is produced when compared to other turfgrasses. However, over time a buildup will occur and should be removed. Excess thatch limits the plant's ability to uptake nutrients, water, promotes fungi, and harbors pests. Zoysia thatch removal should happen when the thatch is visible. 

Should I Dethatch Zoysia Lawns?

A little thatch isn't a bad thing. In fact, it actually conserves moisture and insulates roots. Once it gets a half-inch (1.5 cm.) or more though, thatch actually reduces the health of the sod. Pests and disease are the top two zoysia thatch problems, but thatch can also reduce the plant's ability to feed itself. Dethatching a zoysia lawn can help minimize the impact of that heavy organic matter surrounding the lower blades and roots.

Lawn experts agree, very little thatch is produced by zoysia grass. What is produced is a mixture of the plant's fine and coarse leaf blades. The rough nature of the coarse blades takes a long time to break down and results in a thick, impenetrable thatch. It also means more frequent mower blade sharpening to prevent injury to the grass.

Zoysia thatch removal only needs to occur every year or two. You can prevent some of that thatch by mowing frequently or using a bag on the lawnmower. When long periods go between mowing, the grass blades are long and resilient, resulting in zoysia thatch problems.

When to Remove Thatch in Zoysia Grass

There is no hard and fast rule on dethatching a zoysia lawn; however, you can take a small plug and examine the level of thatch easily. Cut out a small plug and look at the root zone and the base of the leaves. If there is a bunch of dry, dead leaf blades built up at the base of the plug, it is probably time to dethatch.

The rule on most grasses is a half-inch (1.5 cm.). At this level, the grass may root in the thatch making it less stable, winter injury may occur, drought is more extreme, and pests and disease become more frequent.

Early spring is the best time to dethatch. This is when sod is actively growing and can quickly recover from the process.

Tips on Dethatching Zoysia

No matter the type of grass, dethatching is best accomplished with a dethatching machine or a vertical mower. You can also manually remove the thatch with a hard rake. This may result in the removal of some of the grass and require reseeding, so dethatch in late summer or early autumn.

Another way to correct the problem is with core aerification. The machines that perform this task pull up small cores of sod. The resulting holes aerate the sod while the little plugs rot over time and create a top dressing in the lawn.

You can perform a similar action by spreading a thin layer of compost over soil, but you will miss the aeration benefit. To avoid dethatching at all, mow once per week, provide the right amount of fertilizer and water, and use your lawnmower bag to pick up clippings.

For many homeowners, the process of creating a lush green lawn is an important aspect of yard maintenance. From seeding to mowing, lawn care is an essential part of upping the value and curb appeal of homes. It is easy to see why some may be interested to learn more about preventing and controlling unwelcome lawn weeds, such as creeping bentgrass, which can be especially troublesome.

About Creeping Bentgrass Weeds

Bentgrass is a cool season grass that can appear in and spread in the home lawn. While this type of grass is considered a weed to most, especially in southern regions, it does have some very useful applications. In fact, bentgrass is most often used on golf courses on putting greens and tee boxes.

Creeping bentgrass has a shallow root system and a shaggy appearance. The shaggy texture of the grass allows it to be cut back much shorter than other types. When it is left uncut, it will appear messy and unkempt. This can disrupt the uniformity and overall look of well managed lawn spaces. For this reason, many homeowners are looking for new ways of managing creeping bentgrass and preventing its spread.

Creeping Bentgrass Control

While managing creeping bentgrass weeds can be difficult, it is not impossible. The way in which growers are able to kill creeping bentgrass will depend upon the composition of their lawns. Getting rid of creeping bentgrass weeds will most often require the use of herbicides.

One of the most popular herbicides for treatment of creeping bentgrass weeds is called ‘Tenacity’ (Mesotrione). This herbicide is able to specifically target various types of perennial weedy grasses in the lawn. This selective herbicide is useful in maintaining lawns, as it is selective and less likely to damage turf plantings unless used incorrectly.

When choosing to use any kind of herbicide, always make certain to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Familiarizing yourself with the risks and hazards associated with the use of herbicides is imperative to keeping yourself, your family, and your pets safe.

The establishment of consistent lawn care routines is essential to creating well-manicured turf. However, with some effort, homeowners are able to curate green spaces they are able to enjoy for many seasons to come.

Bermuda grass is an aggressive warm season turfgrass and fodder. It can become invasive and infest other turfgrasses, most notably zoysia grass and tall fescue.

The usual herbicides may be toxic to the wanted species, so managing Bermuda grass when it invades the lawn takes some special steps.

Controlling Bermuda grass in flower beds is a little easier, but the tenacious roots require deep removal or the plant will simply reestablish itself. Read on to learn some tips on how to get rid of Bermuda grass without harm to the plants you want to keep in your garden.

Bermuda Grass Control

Bermuda grass is native to the harsh climate of Africa. It is widely used in the southwest and southern United States.

The plant’s vigor and tolerance of heat, drought and heavy foot traffic make it an ideal choice to colonize difficult-to-maintain, low-nutrient areas. It also makes Bermuda grass control difficult in areas with planted species that you don’t want damaged or overrun.

Bermuda grass establishes from deep rhizomes and surface stolons, which all need to be removed or killed for complete control. Both cultural and organic herbicide methods may be how to kill Bermuda grass in lawns and garden beds effectively.

Managing Bermuda Grass Naturally

The best way to prevent Bermuda grass from infesting your lawn is to maintain healthy, thick turf. Keep the mowing height fairly high (3 to 3 ½ inches tall or 8.8 cm) and irrigate to 6 inches (15 cm) twice per week. Fertilize at the appropriate time and rate for your sod species.

Mulching flower and plant beds will help minimize Bermuda grass invasion. In areas where other plants do not exist, solarization with black plastic or constant rototilling, while withholding water, may prove effective Bermuda grass control.

Use edging in beds installed 6 inches (15 cm) into the soil to prevent the grass from spreading into and competing with your shrubs and flowers. Vigilance is required to get rid of Bermuda grass but not plants in highly established gardens.

Controlling Bermuda Grass in Flower Beds

Effective management of bermuda grass in established beds with other plants can often be done by simply digging out the plant. Ensure that you get all the rhizomes and stolons, and do it before the plant sets seed. If seed is present, all bets are off, as it can persist in soil for 2 years or more.

Over time, culling the grass deeply and manually will minimize its presence. For information on how to safely remove large amounts of bermuda grass, reach out to a professional at your local university extension service.

When Bermuda grass is threatening to overrun your lawn, it’s time to get out the big guns. No one likes to have to resort to chemical warfare, but this persistent grass is one of the times it might be necessary. As with everything, timing is essential.

Treat the weed when it is actively growing between the months of May and September. Apply in early spring when growth is less than 6 inches (15 cm) high and again before new growth reaches the same height. Ask the folks at your local garden center about non-toxic solutions that won't harm the environment.

Buffalo grass is low maintenance and tough as a turf grass. The plant is a perennial native to the Great Plains from Montana to New Mexico. The grass spreads by stolons and was first used as a turf grass in the 1930's. The plant has a history of being expensive and hard to establish but planting buffalo grass from the newer cultivars have minimized these traits. With a few buffalo grass planting tips, you will be on your way to an adaptive and flexible lawn.

What is Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass is native to North America. What is buffalo grass? It is the only native grass that is also useful as a lawn grass. Buffalo grass lawns are warm season turf which are drought tolerant with better cold resistance than other warm season grasses. The grass is quite tolerant of a range of conditions and establishes with seed, sod, or plugs. As an extra bonus, care of buffalo grass is minimal, and mowing is infrequent.

As a wild plant, buffalo grass is an important range and pasture plant used by native and domestic grazers. It is a warm season grass that goes brown and dormant in fall when cold temperatures arrive and only awakens in spring as the air and soil warm up. Its busiest growing period is between May and September.

The plant forms a fine turf with bluish green color 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm.) high. The blades are slightly curly, and the flowers are both pistillate and staminate. Plants root at internodes on the stolens. Buffalo grass lawns are very adapted to low moisture areas. Newer cultivars are resistant to weeds and require even less watering than the traditional buffalo grass.

Planting Buffalo Grass

The ideal time to sow buffalo grass is in April or May. You may start it from seed or sod. Sod is generally made up of female plants to keep the spiky male seed heads from making an appearance. Seeded lawns will have both male and female plants.

Broadcast seed at the rate of 4 to 6 pounds (2-3 kg.) per 1,000 square feet (92.9 sq. m.). With good moisture, this rate will achieve good cover in just a few months. Plugs are planted on 6 to 24 inch (15-61 cm.) centers, 2 ½ inches (6 cm.) deep. Sod must be moist before it is rolled out.

A crucial buffalo grass planting tip is to keep any area, whether it is seeded, plugged, or sodded, evenly moist as the grass establishes, but avoid sogginess.

Care of Buffalo Grass

This is a low maintenance turf and over babying it will actually cause it to lose vigor. Fertilize in spring with 1 pound (0.5 kg.) of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet (92.9 sq. m.). Feed the turf again in June or July with the same rate.

Water needs are minimal. The grass needs just a moderate amount of moisture per week. Mow once per week to a height of 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) for a healthy lawn.

Since buffalo grass is not a thick turf, it tends to get weeds. Use a weed and feed at fertilizing time and hand weed when possible to remove competing pest plants.

Lawns in cool areas with plenty of shade will benefit from a turf sown with fine fescue. What is fine fescue? It is a standard turf grass that is bunching and perennial. This variety of fescue is often part of a grass mixture to create a northern shade tolerant grass that has low moisture and fertilizer needs. The grass stays green all year long in most regions and is drought tolerant.

What is Fine Fescue?

Fine fescues encompass at least five major species. These are:

• Hard fescue
• Sheep fescue
• Chewings fescue
• Creeping red fescue
• Slender creeping red fescue

The five varieties are often sold as a blended seed mix for better turf vigor. These grasses are perfect for temperate and cooler regions, especially maritime and low mountainous climates. The majority of the species clump and form tufts with the exception of the red creeping varieties, which spread by rhizomes. The leaves are medium green to blue green with a fine texture. Many growers have trouble determining if they have fine fescue vs. tall fescue. The delicate leaves are an indicator as is the superior performance in shade locations. One of the best uses for fine fescue is as an eco-friendly turf lawn. Fine fescue for lawns germinates quickly and establishes readily. It is often blended with bluegrass and rye as well as different varieties of fine fescue. It is the most shade tolerant of all turfgrasses. The plant prefers difficult soil conditions such as rocky, sandy, or clay situations. Its only major drawback is that it doesn’t perform well in high traffic areas. Growing fine fescue as a mix is recommended for northern gardens and shady warm regions.

Uses for Fine Fescue

Fine fescue is most often used as a lawn. It is not useful in grazing situations. The shade tolerance of the plant is attractive to gardeners with numerous trees, and in low light, the turf is still vigorous and thick. It may go dormant in periods of summer with temperatures above 90 degrees F. (32 C.) but will reanimate when cooler conditions arrive. Growing fine fescue requires soil pH of 5.0 to 6.5. As with any turf grass, it is best to prepare the bed before seeding, drilling, or laying sod. Fine fescue blends are not recommended for heavily trafficked areas, such as athletic fields, but perform well in standard home landscapes.

Fine Fescue Care

One of the characteristics of fine fescue for lawns is its tolerance for low mowing, especially Chewings and hard fescues. The grass has low irrigation needs but will require consistent moisture when establishing. Thick thatch is a problem that develops as the lawn matures and can cause difficulty with irrigation. The plants tolerate low fertility conditions but will gradually brown without supplemental nitrogen. Springtime fertilizing followed by an early summer feed will develop strong roots, good color, and enhance the drought and heat stress properties of the grass. As a general rule, fine fescue care doesn’t require a pesticide, as most insects do not seem to do any damage. Fungal issues, however, do tend to occur, especially in coastal and high moisture regions.

Tall fescue is a cool season turf grass. It is the most common lawn grass in California and useful from the Pacific Northwest to the southern states. It originated in Europe and is now found in North America, Europe, and North Africa. Tall fescue in lawns forms a nice dense grass that cannot be mowed below 1.5 inches (4 cm.). The grass is a perennial bunch grass which establishes quickly and is low maintenance in appropriate locations. If you are in a temperate to warm region, learn how to grow tall fescue as an easy turf grass alternative.

What is Tall Fescue?

Grass that adapts well to clay soil is a rarity. Tall fescue grass is one such sod grass, and it also has low mowing and fertilization needs. It does, however, need frequent deep watering in summer. It works as a lawn in either sunny or partially shady areas. Tall fescue in lawns stays green in winter unlike the warm season turf varieties. The plant is available in numerous cultivars, many of which resemble fine fescue but have wider leaf blades. Tall fescue maintenance is a dream for the lazy gardener because it needs infrequent mowing and has low nutrient needs. Tall fescue is a turf grass with remarkable drought and heat stress tolerance. It is a coarse textured, dark green grass with rolled leaves. It spreads by seed primarily and does most of its growth in spring and fall. The grass has deep widely set roots. In spring the plant produces a short panicle 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) long with lance-like spikelets. Tall fescue grass is a bunch grass and established lawns may eventually die out in some areas, requiring spring reseeding.

How to Grow Tall Fescue

Tall fescue establishes best on soil with good drainage and high fertility where pH is 5.5 to 6.5. Work the area well and add in a starter fertilizer to the top few inches (8 cm.) of soil. The rate of sowing is 6 to 8 pounds (3-4 kg.) per 1,000 square feet (92.9 sq. m.). Cover the area with a fine layer of sand or soil. Seed needs to be pressed into soil. Keep evenly moist for 14 to 21 days, at which point you should see your first seedlings. The plants can now get used to less frequent watering. Mow the grass when it is 3 inches (8 cm.) high. Turf grass that is kept less than 3 inches (8 cm.) is thicker and more attractive.

Tall Fescue Maintenance

Established tall fescue lawns are low maintenance and need infrequent mowing and watering, except in very hot summers. Keep the lawn at 2 inches (5 cm.) tall and allow the plants to dry out in between deep watering. Few diseases bother the grass, but some rusts and fungus may become a problem, especially in new lawns. White grubs, armyworm, and cutworm are the biggest insect pests of tall fescue. White grubs are particularly a problem and should be controlled. Older lawns may develop empty patches and it may become necessary to sow seed again in fall to rejuvenate a patchy sod.

Annual ryegrass is a valuable, rapidly growing cover crop. It aids in breaking up hard soils, better allowing roots to absorb nitrogen. So, what is perennial ryegrass used for? Read on to learn more.

What is Perennial Ryegrass Used For?

There are a number of benefits to planting perennial ryegrass. Perennial ryegrass uses extend from using it as a pasture grass or as sod for the home lawn. It is considered the best cool season perennial pasture grass in many areas. Planting perennial ryegrass for pasture has many benefits. It establishes rapidly, is high yielding with a long growing season, is highly nutritious, recovers well from grazing, and tolerates traffic. This perennial grass is highly digestible for ruminants and is valuable not only as pasture but as hay and silage as well. Perennial ryegrass is also used for home lawns and other areas requiring attractive turf such as golf course fairways and tees or baseball fields. It wears well, germinates rapidly, and maintains a lush appearance. Other perennial ryegrass information states that it has the highest wear tolerance of all the cool season grasses and is forgiving of very high traffic, making it perfect for use around schools and in park settings. All the above perennial ryegrass information lends it as the perfect candidate for overseeding winter dormant lawns and its rapid growth aids in weed suppression.

Perennial Ryegrass Care

Perennial ryegrass is used in cool, temperate climates well suited to coastal regions with moderate temps throughout the year. It thrives in full sun but will do well in partial shade. It does not tolerate drought or long periods of extreme heat. Like all ryegrasses, it flourishes in fertile, well-draining soil, but perennial ryegrass handles wet soils better than other ryes. Perennial ryegrass has a bunchgrass growth habit without rhizomes or stolons and perennial ryegrass care ranks between moderate and high maintenance depending upon environmental conditions. Seed at the rate of 6 to 9 pounds (3-4 kg.) of seed per 1,000 square feet (93 sq. m.) in the fall or use sod. Germination should take place between three and five days and mature turf will take hold within four to eight weeks. This fine textured, rich green grass should be mowed when used as lawn cover between 1.5 and 2.5 inches (4-6 cm.) high. When planting perennial ryegrass to overseed warm season grasses, begin mowing in the spring and gradually reduce its height to encourage growth of the warm season grass. Fertilize this ryegrass with 4 pounds (2 kg.) of nitrogen per 1,000 sq feet (93 sq. m.) per year during its active growth period-- February through June or October through December. Water this grass often to a depth of 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) unless used to overseed, in which case water deeply but less often. All in all, perennial ryegrass is an excellent pastoral or turf choice of grass for cool weather regions.

Kentucky bluegrass, a cool season grass, is a species native to Europe, Asia, Algeria, and Morocco. However, even though this species is not native to the United States, it is grown all over the East Coast, and can also be grown in the west with irrigation.

Information on Kentucky Bluegrass

What Does Kentucky Bluegrass Look Like?

At maturity, Kentucky bluegrass is about 20-24 inches (51-61 cm.) tall. It can be recognized quite easily because of its “V” shaped leaves. Its rhizomes allow it to spread and create new grass plants. Kentucky bluegrass rhizomes grow quite quickly and form a thick sod in the spring. There are over 100 cultivars of this grass and most stores selling grass seeds will have a variety to choose from. Bluegrass seed is also frequently sold mixed with other grass seeds. This will give you a more balanced lawn.

Planting Kentucky Bluegrass

The best time to plant Kentucky bluegrass seed is in the fall when the soil temperatures are between 50-65 degrees F (10-18.5 C.). The soil needs to be warm enough for germination and root development so that it will survive through the winter. You can plant Kentucky bluegrass on its own or combine several varieties for a diverse blend.

Kentucky Bluegrass as Forage Crop

Kentucky bluegrass is sometimes used for grazing livestock. If allowed to develop properly, it can withstand low grazing. Because of this, it does well as a grazing crop when mixed with other cool season grasses.

Kentucky Bluegrass Maintenance

Because this is a cool season grass, it requires at least 2 inches (5 cm.) of water per week to keep it healthy, growing, and green. If your area gets less water than this, it will be necessary to irrigate. If irrigation is required, the turf should be watered in small amounts daily instead of once per week in large amounts. If the grass does not get enough water, it may go dormant in the summer months. Kentucky bluegrass will do much better when nitrogen is applied. In the first year of growing, 6 pounds per 1000 square feet (2.5 kg. per 93 sq. m.) may be needed. Years after, 3 pounds per 1000 square feet (1.5 kg. per 93 sq. m.) should be adequate. Less nitrogen may be needed in areas with rich soil. Usually, if weeds are allowed to grow, Kentucky bluegrass lawns will be covered in dandelions, crabgrass, and clover. The best form of control is using a pre-emergent herbicide on lawns annually. The best time to do this is in the early spring before weeds are noticeable.

Mowing Kentucky Bluegrass Lawns

Young grass does best when kept at a 2-inch (5 cm.) height. It should be mowed before it ever reaches 3 inches (7.5 cm.). Grass should never be mowed lower than this because it would cause young seedlings to be pulled up and ruin the overall health of the lawn.

Many people are turning to low maintenance grasses for their lawn care needs. While there are a number of these grasses available, one of the lesser known types - creeping red fescue - is becoming more popular. Read on to learn more about red fescue grass.

About Red Fescue Grass

What is Red Fescue?

Creeping red fescue grass (Festuca rubra) is a perennial lawn grass in USDA planting zones 1-7 and an annual grass in zones 8-10. Native to Europe, this cool season grass needs moist soil until it is established. However, once it is established, it has a very deep root system and is very resistant to wear and drought. Red fescue has very fine blades and a very attractive emerald green color when well irrigated.

Where Does Red Fescue Grow?

Red fescue grows well in New York, Ohio, West Virginia, Pennsylvania and the New England states. In places where temperatures are high and there is a great deal of humidity, grass may turn brown and go dormant. Once fall temperatures arrive and more moisture arrives, the grass will rebound.

Can I Use Red Fescue for Landscaping?

Yes, red fescue is a great choice for landscaping, as it grows quickly and covers lots of ground. Because it grows well in sandy soil, it is also great for landscaping in tough spots. It is commonly used on golf courses, recreation fields and for home lawns.

Can I Use Red Fescue for Forage?

Red fescue is not a good source of forage for livestock. Although it can withstand lower grazing more so than other grasses, when grown out it becomes unpalatable to livestock.

Red Fescue Planting

If you are planting a new lawn, you will need about 4 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet (93 m). Plant 1/8 inch (3 ml.) deep and keep mowed at 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm.) high. While red fescue will grow fine on its own, it does much better when mixed with other grass seeds. Ryegrass and bluegrass are the perfect seeds for mixing to create the best stands. Some companies sell the seeds already mixed to the proper ratio.

Red Fescue Grass Care

If you are in a fairly dry climate and receive under 18 inches (45 cm.) of rain annually, you will need to irrigate for best growth. However, if you receive more than 18 inches (45 cm.) of rain, irrigation will not be needed. Red fescue does not have any serious pest threats.

If you're looking for a tough, easy maintenance grass, planting hybrid bluegrasses may be just what you need. Read on for hybrid bluegrass information.

What is Hybrid Bluegrass?

In the 1990's, Kentucky bluegrass and Texas bluegrass were crossed to create a hybrid bluegrass seed. This type of cool season grass is commonly known as heat tolerant bluegrass because of its ability to withstand high temperatures. Types of hybrid bluegrass seed include:

• Reville
• Longhorn
• Bandera
• Thermal Blue
• Thermal Blue Blaze
• Dura Blue
• Solar Green

Hybrid bluegrass is fairly easy to grow, though it does take longer than other bluegrasses to establish. Once established, however, it grows very vigorously and requires little work to keep up.

Hybrid Bluegrass Information for Growing

Plant hybrid bluegrass as you would any other bluegrass, in the fall when the soil temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees F. (10-18 C.). Be sure to prepare the soil by taking a soil sample, making proper amendments, and tilling or raking to provide a level and clean planting surface. Heat and Shade Tolerance. This grass actually seems to grow better in the heat of summer, while other grasses suffer. Since it grows well in heat, it is able to withstand more damage and traffic in the summer than other types of bluegrass. Dry areas, or places with little irrigation abilities, will be able to successfully grow this grass even in the summer. Although this grass can take the heat, it will grow fine in the shade too. Root Growth. Hybrid bluegrass develops a sturdy root system that is very thick and deep. This contributes to its drought tolerance and ability to handle foot traffic. Due to the deep density of roots, planting hybrid bluegrass is common in all sorts of recreational facilities, or high-use areas. Aggressive Rhizome. The underground stems or rhizomes of this grass are large and aggressive. These stems are the growing points of the grass that forms new grass plants, so aggressiveness leads to a thicker lawn. It is because of this, it is able to heal itself much quicker after damage and fill in bare spots without a problem. Areas that are used frequently and are damaged regularly will benefit from a good stand of hybrid bluegrass. Low Mowing. Some grasses do not do well when mowed at low heights, especially in the heat. When the grass is cut, it may brown in areas, wither, or sometimes die in patches. Hybrid bluegrass, however, does quite well when kept low and neat. This makes an attractive lawn, sports field, or golf course. Less Watering. Once the root system is developed, this grass requires little watering. The deep root system and ability to withstand heat will keep it alive during droughts with little irrigation. This makes it easy and inexpensive to sustain a healthy and attractive lawn.

Cool-season grasses are especially suited for the Pacific Northwest and parts of New England. Bentgrass is used as a turfgrass in these areas. What is bentgrass? This perennial creeping grass is used alone or as part of a seed mix for golf courses, home lawns, and fields but it is native to Asia and Europe. There it grows wild and is common in many disturbed sites and in-home use.

What is Bentgrass?

Bentgrass spreads by stolons which connect and root at internodes. The dense mat it produces has shallow roots and fine, bluish-green foliage. This makes it an attractive and resilient turfgrass, able to withstand foot traffic and frequent mowing. Bentgrass in lawns in the south is considered an interfering weed, but it is a useful species for cool zone lawns. The grass requires cool nighttime temperatures such as those found in the northern states and doesn't produce well when evenings are warm.

Types of Bentgrass

There are several strains of bentgrass useful for turf. The south does use it as part of seed mixed lawns occasionally, but it dies back in heavy heat and doesn't create a sustainable lawn where temperatures remain high consistently. The types of bentgrass found in the southern states are Emerald, Penn Links, Cato, Crenshaw, and Penneagle. In the north, bentgrass varieties include Toronto, Cohansey, Nimisiila, Congressional, and some local blends. Seaside is the oldest bentgrass variety. As the name indicates, it is used in coastal areas and the lawn created is multihued. Pengrass, another variety, is a more consistent producer. It has high disease resistance and is the most tolerant of foot traffic.

Growing Bentgrass

When used in the cooler locations, bentgrass is a low-maintenance, vigorous turfgrass with high water needs. In the south it is a problem child, requiring constant watering, mowing, fertilizing, and pest management, especially in the summer months. Seeds or plugs are available for growing bentgrass, with seed establishment the most optimal method in the north and plugs for the south. Preparation of the turf bed is extremely important. Remove debris and rocks and rake out the bed to grade it and break up clods. Seed at a rate of 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet (22.5 kg. per 93 sq. m.) and then cover with a light dusting of sand mixed with compost. Keep the area evenly moist until germination. Once the turf is established, apply a nitrogen fertilizer in early spring in the north and once monthly during October to May in the south. Follow with plentiful water and mow bentgrass no lower than ¼ inch (0.5 cm.) for the best conditions.

Native plants are becoming more popular in garden and home landscape use due to their low maintenance and ease of care. Choosing plants that already fit into the local fauna gives them a high incidence of survival and growth with minimal effort because the area already matches their requirements. This reduces the use of herbicides, pesticides, and even water, and provides a sustainable landscape that blends and accents the natural region. Blue grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis) is a bunch grass native to the Great Plains found in pastures, grazing land, and open unmanaged fields. Some information and knowledge on what is blue grama grass will help you decide if it is a good fit for your location.

What is Blue Grama Grass?

Blue grama cultivars are part of turf grass and ground cover areas with low moisture. It is a warm to temperate zone grass that requires sun and dry earth but tolerates a range of soil types, from rocky to sandy, with moderate to alkaline pH levels. About the only condition it cannot stand is boggy or overly wet sites. It is a low growing grass that spreads from rhizomes and spreads slowly. The native perennial is found across North America in plains, mesas and even open woodlands. When mixed with other turf grass species, it makes an excellent low maintenance lawn.

Blue Grama Information as Turf Grass

The native grass starts growing in May to June and flowers at the end of the summer season. It is often used for grazing but also performs well as a lawn with minimal mowing, watering or fertilizing. It is not suitable for most northern climes and performs best in western Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona, although it tolerates drier parts of the Pacific Northwest. ‘Hachita' is the most drought tolerant of the blue grama grass cultivars but ‘Loving' and ‘Alma' are also high performers with ease of care and low maintenance requirements. One of the more important pieces of blue grama information is its ability to be used as an ornamental. None of the varieties gets taller than 12 to 18 inches (30-45 cm.) without mowing and they produce abundant purplish inflorescences in late summer that are attractive and provide delightful movement and wild animal fodder.

Planting Blue Grama Grass

The ideal time for planting blue grama grass is two months before the first frost in fall. Prepare a seed bed by tilling the area and adding compost or mixed grit to ensure drainage and percolation. Rake out any imperfections and debris and grade the area. The seed is fine and should be mixed with sand for sowing at a rate of 3 pounds (1.3 kg.) per 1,000 feet (305 m.). You can load a seed spreader to the desired ratio and then lightly water the area after application. Keep the bed moist in spring, but not soggy, until germination which generally occurs within 7 to 10 days once soil temperatures warm up.

Blue Grama Grass Care

This lovely fine-leaved bluish grass is easy to maintain and requires little of the standard turf grass treatment that other cultivated varieties seem to demand. If you do fertilize, feed in early spring with a low nitrogen grass feed. The grass has no thatch buildup and grows slowly, which requires minimal mowing. Mow at a high level of approximately 4 inches (10 cm.) for best grass health. The biggest problem with the plant is rust, fungal rot, or smuts. Any of these can be prevented for the most part by following good blue grama grass care and only watering in extreme drought and only when the blades of grass have time to dry in the coolest part of the day. Wet foliage in high heat tends to form the fungal diseases that cause these major problems.

Native to the Gulf States and naturalized throughout the southeast, carpetgrass is a warm season grass that spreads by means of creeping stolons. It doesn't produce a high-quality lawn, but it is useful as a turf grass because it thrives in difficult areas where other grasses fail. Read on to find out if carpetgrass is right for your trouble spots.

Information on Carpetgrass

The disadvantage of using carpetgrass in lawns is its appearance. It has a pale green or yellowish green color and a sparser growth habit than most turf grasses. It is one of the first grasses to turn brown when temperatures cool and the last to green up in spring. Carpetgrass sends up seed stalks that quickly grow to a height of about a foot (31 cm.) and bear unattractive seed heads that give the lawn a weedy appearance. To prevent seed heads, mow carpetgrass every five days to a height of 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.). If allowed to grow, the seed stalks are tough and hard to mow down. Despite the disadvantages, there are some situations where carpetgrass excels. Carpetgrass uses include plantings in boggy or shady areas where more desirable grass species won't grow. It is also good for erosion control in difficult sites. Since it thrives in soils with low fertility, it is a good choice for areas that aren't regularly maintained. The two types of carpetgrass are broadleaf carpetgrass (Axonopus compressus) and narrowleaf carpetgrass (A. affinis). Narrowleaf carpetgrass is the type most often used in lawns and the seeds are readily available.

Carpetgrass Planting

Plant carpetgrass seeds after the last spring frost. Prepare the soil so that it is loose but firm and smooth. For most soils, you'll need to till and then drag or roll to firm and smooth the surface. Sow the seeds at the rate of 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet (1 kg. per 93 sq. m.). Rake lightly after sowing to help cover the seeds. Keep the soil constantly moist for the first two weeks, and water weekly for an additional six to eight weeks. Ten weeks after planting, the seedlings should be established and beginning to spread. At this point, water at the first signs of drought stress. Carpetgrass will grow in soils without a lot of nitrogen but applying a lawn fertilizer will hasten establishment.

The perfect turf grass is an item of debate and scientific inquiry. Turf grass is big business for golf courses, play fields, sports stadiums, and other areas where the grass is a focal point of the site. The grass needs to be vigorous, hardy, resistant to disease and pests, and able to withstand foot traffic and frequent mowing. Of concern is also the amount of water and resources required to sustain the lawn. New grasses for turf, such as Danthonia poverty grass, have shown promise in all areas of concern. What is poverty grass? It is a native perennial oatgrass with excellent site, soil, and temperature tolerance. Danthonia spicata hardiness is extremely broad ranged, and the grass can be grown in all parts of the United States.

Poverty Oatgrass Information

What is poverty grass and why is it an important species for industrial and commercial grass production? The plant isn't invasive and does not spread from stolens or rhizomes. It does equally well on nutrient poor soil or even rocky terrain. It can thrive in full sun to partial shade, and will survive periods of drought. The plant has a central crown from which the blades grow. If not mowed consistently, the ends of the foliage get curly. The leaves can get 5 inches (13 cm.) long if left untrimmed. Flower spikes will form if the plant is left uncut. Danthonia spicata hardiness is in the United States Department of Agriculture ranges of 3 to 11.

Cultivated Use of Danthonia Poverty Grass

The poverty grass does not grow well when confronted with other plant species in rich soils. It performs much better when planted on inhospitable rocky areas. Many golf courses have areas where grass is hard to establish and Danthonia poverty grass would be useful in achieving coverage on these difficult plots. The plant's usefulness as a shade grass and ability to tolerate a wide range of soils and pH levels make it an ideal choice for managed lawns and grass ways. Additionally, native grasses generally require less fertilizer, pesticide, and water than commercial cultivars. This provides a winning solution for sites with poor sod contact and an economic advantage for high yield turf areas.

Growing Poverty Grass

Germination rates on poverty grass are relatively poor but once the grass takes hold, it is a tenacious plant. An important bit of poverty oatgrass information is its vigor. The plant establishes easily and has fewer problems than many traditional grass cultivars. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide prior to planting, if you wish. This will help keep competitive weeds down while the seedlings are establishing. In spring, prepare a seed bed in full sun to partial shade. Rake out rocks and debris and work in compost to a depth of at least 6 inches (15 cm.). Sow at a rate of 3,000 per square foot.

The Spanish brought Bermuda grass to America in the 1500's from Africa. This attractive, dense grass, also known as “South Grass,” is an adaptable warm-season turf that many people use for their lawns. It is also found in pastures, on athletic fields, golf courses, parks and more. Let's learn more about how and when to plant Bermuda grass.

Information on Growing Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is a cold tolerant, warm-season grass that will grow as far north as Virginia. In warmer tropical areas, Bermuda grass will remain green all year long. In other areas that drop below 60 degrees F. (15 C.), it will go dormant. Ideal growing regions for Bermuda grass include the United States Department of Agriculture Zones 7 through 10. Growing Bermuda grass is easy as long as you have the right conditions. Note - For those that have not planted Bermuda grass for turf or other practical uses, its presence can be that of a weed and is very hard to get rid of.

When to Plant Bermuda Grass

The best time to plant Bermuda grass is in the spring once temperatures are consistently warm; this is generally in April or March in warmer regions.

How to Grow Bermuda Grass

Bermuda is not overly picky about soil type and will even tolerate salt spray, making it a good option for coastal regions. Bermuda grass does well in full sun, but it will tolerate some shade. At one point in time, Bermuda was grown only from sod or sprigs but is now widely available in seed form. For best results, use 1 pound (0.50 kg.) of hulled Bermuda grass per 1,000 square feet (93 sq. m.). This grass sprouts quickly and is very hard to get rid of once it starts growing. Start by raking the area to be seeded until it is as smooth as possible. Make a mixture of equal parts sand and seed. The seed can be broadcast using a spreader or by hand for smaller areas. To avoid skips in the lawn, distribute half the mixture lengthwise and half of the mixture crosswise.

Care of Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass care is not difficult. A light daily watering is all that is necessary while the grass is establishing. Once the grass is established, the watering frequency can be decreased, but the amount of water per watering session increased. The grass will need one inch (2.5 cm.) per week if there is not significant rainfall. As soon as the grass reaches 2 inches (5 cm.), it can be mowed with a sharp blade. Mowing will help the grass toughen up and spread. Fertilize six weeks after planting with a complete fertilizer that releases nitrogen slowly. Apply a pre-emergence weed control in the fall.

St. Augustine grass is a salt tolerant turf suited for subtropical, humid areas. It is widely grown in Florida and other warm season states. St. Augustine grass lawn is a compact blue-green color that grows well on a variety of soil types provided they are well drained. St Augustine grass is the most widely used warm season turf grass in the southern United States.

Planting St Augustine Grass

St. Augustine grass lawn is grown in coastal areas due to its salt tolerance. Also known as carpetgrass, St. Augustine creates a smooth even turf which is tolerant to extremely high temperatures and low moisture. It retains its color longer than other warm season grasses when exposed to cool temperatures and requires infrequent mowing. The propagation of St. Augustine grass is usually vegetative through stolens, plugs, and sod. St. Augustine grass seed has not traditionally been easy to establish but new methods have made seeding a viable option. Once a lawn is prepared, St. Augustine grass seed is planted at a rate of 1/3 to ½ pound per 1,000 square feet (93 sq. m.) in early spring or late summer. St. Augustine grass seed needs to be kept moist while it is establishing. Plugs are the more common method of planting St Augustine grass. Plugs should be placed 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) apart in a prepared lawn.

How To Care For St. Augustine Grass

St. Augustine grass is a low maintenance sod that can perform well with little extra care. During the first seven to ten days after planting, it requires frequent watering several times during the day. After roots have formed, irrigation once per day at a rate of ¼ to ½ inch (6 mm. to 1 cm.) is sufficient. Gradually reduce the frequency of watering until the St. Augustine grass lawn is fully established. Mow after two weeks to 1 to 3 inches (2.5-8 cm.) in height. Mow every week to two weeks depending on the height. Fertilize with 1 pound of nitrogen every 30 to 60 days during spring through fall.

Common St. Augustine Grass Problems

Grubs and sod worms are the most common pests and can be controlled with insecticide applications twice early in spring and mid-season. Fungal turf diseases such as brown patch and gray leaf spot weaken the sod and destroy the appearance. Early season fungicides can often catch these diseases before they can become a serious problem. Weeds are minor St. Augustine problems. A healthy turf crowds out weeds and pre-emergence herbicides can be used where broadleaf weeds are a consistent threat. The best defense against St. Augustine problems is good cultural control and reduced stress in the turf.

St. Augustine Varieties

There are over 11 common St. Augustine varieties and several newly released cultivars. Some of the most widely used include:

• Floratine
• Bitter Blue
• Seville

Each selection is bred for reduced cold sensitivity, insect and disease resistance, and better color and texture. There are also dwarf species such as Amerishade and Delmar, which need to be mowed less frequently. St. Augustine grasses developed for shade use are Classic and Delta Shade.

While zoysia grass is drought tolerant, holds up well to foot traffic, and provides thick coverage to lawn areas, these same qualities can also pose problems to homeowners. With its quick-spreading growth habit, zoysia grass can oftentimes invade and choke out neighboring yards and gardens. Therefore, it may be necessary to contain zoysia or even remove the grass to keep it under control.

Controlling Zoysia Grass

Zoysia grass spreads through underground rhizomatous runners. One of the best ways to keep zoysia out of neighboring lawns or garden beds is to establish good borders. You can accomplish this by installing lawn edging that zoysia is unable to get through, such as plastic or aluminum. Place the edging in the ground at least 6 inches (15 cm.) deep with another 2 or 3 inches (5-8 cm.) above the ground to help keep zoysia within its boundaries. Alternatively, those looking to simply eradicate the grass can instead treat the entire lawn area with a non-selective herbicide. While herbicide treatments usually begin in late summer, to achieve the best results, apply the herbicide while the grass is still green and actively growing. Also, keep in mind that non-selective herbicides still have the potential to kill other plants on contact. Therefore, use it with caution when applying near garden plants. Since zoysia is known to regrow, repeated applications will most likely be necessary. Treated areas will eventually turn brown and provided no more zoysia has popped up, it is generally safe to reseed the area within a couple weeks.

Removing Zoysia Grass

For those looking for a non-chemical form of removal, the only option is to remove the grass altogether with a sod cutter. This method works for both large and small areas, however, you may find that smaller areas make the task much easier to accomplish. When removing zoysia grass this way, include some of the topsoil as well to limit the possibility of re-emergence. Once the grass has been removed, wait a couple weeks (removing any new shoots that appear) and then till the existing topsoil, adding more if needed, and reseed. Zoysia grass is a great choice for warmer climates and large lawns where it is free to creep about without invading other nearby areas. However, for those that have already been ‘invaded' by this quick spreader, containing zoysia grass or removing it altogether may be your only recourse. Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are more environmentally friendly.

Centipede grass is a popular turf grass for lawn in the southern part of the United States. Centipede grass' ability to grow in poor soils and its low maintenance needs make it an ideal grass for many homeowners in warmer areas. While centipede grass needs little care, some centipede grass maintenance is required. Keep reading to learn more about how to plant centipede grass and caring for centipede grass.

How to Plant Centipede Grass

Centipede grass can be grown from centipede grass seed, sod, or plugs. Which method you use depends largely on what you prefer in terms of cost, labor, and time to established lawn.

Planting Centipede Grass Seed

Centipede grass seed is the cheapest, but has the most labor involved and takes the longest to an established lawn. The first step to starting centipede grass seed is to till the area where you would like the centipede grass seed to grow. Using a rake or roller, level the area after it has been tilled. If there was another grass growing in that area previously, either remove the grass before tilling or treat the area with herbicide and wait one to two weeks before moving on to the next step or cover the area with a light barrier, like a tarp, for two to four weeks. This will kill the previous grass and will prevent the old grass from re-establishing in the lawn over your centipede grass. After the area has been prepared, spread the centipede grass seed. 1 pound (0.5 kg.) of centipede grass seed will cover 3,000 square feet (915 m.). To make spreading the centipede grass seed easier, you may want to mix the seed with sand. Mix 1 pound (0.5 kg.) of seed with 3 gallons (11 L.) of sand for maximum efficiency in covering the area. After planting the centipede grass seed, water thoroughly and keep watered for three weeks. If desired, fertilize the area with a high nitrogen fertilizer.

Planting Centipede Grass with Sod

Using centipede grass sod is the fastest and least labor involved way to start a centipede grass lawn, but it is the most expensive as well. The first step when laying grass sod is to till the soil and add in organic material and a nitrogen rich fertilizer while you are tilling. Next, lay the strips of centipede grass sod over the tilled soil. Make sure that the edges of the sod strips touch, but that the ends of the strips are staggered. The centipede grass sod should come with sod staples, which will help attach the sod to the soil. Once the sod is laid, roll the sod down and water thoroughly. Keep the centipede grass sod well watered for the next three to four weeks.

Planting Centipede Grass Plugs

Centipede grass plugs fall in the middle in terms of labor, cost, and time to an established lawn. When planting centipede grass plugs, start by tilling the area where you will be growing the centipede grass plugs. Add organic material and nitrogen rich fertilizer to the soil at this time. If there was established grass in place before this, you may want to use a sod cutter to remove the old grass before tilling. Next, using a sod plug drill bit, insert the centipede grass plugs approximately 1 foot (31 cm.) apart in the lawn. After the plugs are inserted, water the area thoroughly and keep well watered for the next three to four weeks.

Caring for Centipede Grass

After your centipede grass lawn is established, it needs very little maintenance, but it does need some. Centipede grass maintenance involves occasional fertilizing and watering. Fertilize your centipede grass twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. Lightly apply a nitrogen rich fertilizer once in the spring and again in the fall. Fertilizing any more than this can lead to problems with your centipede grass lawn. Water your centipede grass only when it starts to show signs of water stress during times of drought. Water stress signs include a faded color or wilted look to the grass. When watering during drought, water once a week deeply, rather than several times a week shallowly.

Zoysia grass has become a popular lawn grass in the past few decades, mostly due to its ability to spread through a yard simply by planting plugs, as opposed to reseeding the yard, which is what is done with other traditional lawn grasses. If you have purchased zoysia grass plugs, you are probably wondering how and when to plant zoysia plugs. Keep reading for instructions on planting zoysia plugs.

Planting Zoysia Plugs

1. Prepare the ground where you will be planting zoysia plugs. De-thatch the area and water it thoroughly to soften the soil.
2. Dig the hole for the plug slightly larger than the plug itself.
3. Add some weak fertilizer or compost to the bottom of the hole and place the plug in the hole.
4. Backfill the soil around the plug. Press down on the plug to make sure you have good contact with the soil.
5. How far apart you plant the zoysia grass plugs will be determined by how quickly you want the zoysia grass to take over the lawn. At a minimum, space them 12 inches (31 cm.) apart, but you can space them wider if you are okay with waiting longer.
6. Keep planting zoysia plugs across the yard. The zoysia grass plugs should planted in a checkerboard pattern as you continue on.
7. After all the zoysia grass plugs are planted, water the grass thoroughly.

After planting zoysia plugs, keep watering them daily for a week or two until they are established.

When to Plant Zoysia Plugs

The best time when to plant zoysia plugs is in the late spring after all threat of frost has passed until midsummer. Planting zoysia plugs after midsummer will not give the plugs enough time to establish themselves well enough to survive the winter.

Zoysia is an easy care, warm-season grass that is highly versatile and drought tolerant, making it popular for many lawns. However, zoysia grass problems do pop up on occasion -- most often from zoysia diseases like brown patch.

Common Zoysia Grass Problems

Although relatively free from most pests and diseases, zoysia grass isn't without its faults. One of the most common zoysia grass problems is the buildup of thatch, which is caused from undecomposed organic matter. This buildup forms just above the soil line. While raking can sometimes alleviate the problem, regular mowing helps to prevent thatch from accumulating throughout the lawn. It also helps to limit the amount of fertilizer used on zoysia grass. If you find sections of zoysia dying, this could be attributed to grub worms. Read detailed information on grub worm control here.

Zoysia Diseases

Brown patch, leaf spot, and rust are also common zoysia grass problems.

Brown Patch

Brown patch is probably the most prevalent zoysia grass disease, with patches of zoysia dying off. These dead patches of grass start small but can quickly spread in warm conditions. You can typically identify this zoysia disease by its distinct brown ring that encircles a green center. Although fungal spores of brown patch cannot be fully eliminated, keeping zoysia healthy will make it less susceptible to the disease. Fertilize only when needed and water in the morning after all dew has dried. For further control, there are fungicides available.

Leaf Spot

Leaf spot is another zoysia disease that occurs during warm days and cool nights. It is usually caused from overly dry conditions and lack of proper fertilizer. Leaf spot develops small lesions on grass blades with distinct patterns. Close inspection of spotty areas of zoysia dying will oftentimes be necessary to determine its actual presence. Applying fertilizer and watering grass deeply at least once weekly should help alleviate this problem.

Rust

Rust in grass often develops during cool, moist conditions. This zoysia disease presents itself as an orange, powdery-like substance on zoysia grass. Other than using appropriate fungicides targeted toward its treatment, it may be necessary to retrieve grass clippings after or during mowing and properly disposing of them to prevent further spreading of this grass rust. While zoysia grass diseases are few, it never hurts to check into the most common zoysia grass problems whenever you notice zoysia dying in the lawn.

A zoysia grass lawn is frequently touted as the cure-all for the homeowner's lawn cares. The basic fact about zoysia grass is that, unless it is grown in the right climate, it will cause more headaches than not.

Zoysia Grass Problems

Invasive - Zoysia grass is a very invasive grass. The reason you can plant plugs and not have to seed the lawn is because zoysia grass will crowd out all other species in the lawn. Then when it has taken over your lawn, it will start in on your flower beds and your neighbor's lawn. Temperamental color - Another one of the zoysia grass problems is that unless you live in a consistently warm climate, the color of your lawn can go rapidly from green to brown at the first sign of cool weather. This can leave your lawn looking unsightly for a good part of the year. Slow growing - While this is touted as a good feature because it means that you don't need to mow as much, it also means that your zoysia grass lawn will have a harder time recovering from damage and heavy wear. Zoysia Patch or Rhizoctonia Large Patch - Zoysia is prone to zoysia patch disease, which can kill the grass and give it a rust color as it is dying. Thatch - Another one of the facts about zoysia grass is that is prone to thatch problems. While you will have less mowing, you will have to do more thatch control, which is significantly more labor-intensive. Difficult to remove - One of the most frustrating zoysia grass problems is the fact that it is nearly impossible to remove once it becomes established. If you decide to plant zoysia grass, you are making the decision to grow it for life. In warm weather, zoysia grass problems are fewer and the benefits are greater and this grass is worth looking at. But if you are in a cooler climate, planting a zoysia grass lawn is just asking for trouble.

Are you looking for a hardy, drought-resistant lawn that requires little or no maintenance? Then perhaps you would like to try growing Zoysia grass rather than traditional lawn grass. This thick, hardy grass not only chokes out weeds, but it requires less mowing, watering, and fertilizing once it has been established in the lawn.

What is Zoysia Grass?

Zoysia is a rhizomatous, warm-season grass that holds up well to a myriad of conditions, including foot traffic. In fact, with its tough stems and leaves, zoysia grass has the uncanny ability to heal itself quite effectively when trod upon. Although zoysia generally thrives in full sun, it can tolerate shade. Zoysia grass has the ability to remain alive in conditions that most other grasses would perish in. Their root system is amongst the deepest for grasses and adapts easily to numerous soil types, from sand to clay. However, there is a downside. Zoysia grass is very susceptible to cold conditions and is, therefore, best suited to warm climates. In cooler areas, zoysia grass will turn brown and unless, or until warm conditions return, this grass will lay dormant.

Planting Zoysia Grass

Spring is the best time for planting zoysia grass, and there are various planting methods that can be employed. Some people choose to start by seed; however, most prefer to lay down sod or insert plugs, all of which can be acquired at most nurseries or garden centers. Any of these methods is fine and up to the individual. Laying sod results in a more immediate lawn and usually requires several weeks before it is able to withstand any foot traffic. The newly sod area should be kept moist until the grass is well established. Sloped areas may need to be secured with stakes to prevent the sod from shifting out of place before the roots have had adequate time to take hold. An alternative to laying sod is the method of laying strips. Strips are similar to sod but are smaller and less expensive. The use of plugs or sprigs is more commonly used when planting zoysia grass. Plugs contain a piece of rhizome affixed with soil. These should be kept moist and placed in holes that are around 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) deep and spaced approximately 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) apart. Lightly tamp the area once the plugs have been inserted and continue to keep them moist. Generally, it takes about two full growing seasons for the area to gain full coverage. Zoysia sprigs are similar to plugs; they include a small portion of rhizome, root, and leaves but have no soil, as do plugs. Sprigs are not as expensive and require less care than plugs, both before and after planting. Sprigs are planted much like plugs; however, they are normally fashioned in a shallow furrow rather than holes and spaced about 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. Sprigs should not dry out; therefore, applying a layer of straw mulch is helpful and highly recommended to retain moisture.

Care of Zoysia Grass

Once zoysia grass has established itself, it requires little maintenance. Seasonal fertilizing is usually sufficient. Continual mowing is not a concern with this type of grass; however, when mowing zoysia grass, cut it at a shorter height, around 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.). Although there are few insect or disease problems associated with zoysia grass, it does occur. The most common problem encountered with zoysia is thatch, which consists of layers of decomposed roots. This brown, spongy material can be found just above the soil surface and should be removed with a power rake in early summer.