If you’ve ever planted squash in summer, you likely know a thing or two about cucumber beetles and squash vine borers. These are not vicious pests, just hungry bugs looking to chow down on your crops – and squash tops their desirable food list.

Almost every gardener who has ever tried growing squash has had to combat these pests – and, unfortunately, many of us have resorted to pesticides. But there’s a better way to protect your tender young squashes. It’s called trap cropping.

If this sounds tricky, it’s only tricky in the best sense of the word. This organic pest control method tricks pests into eating the trap crop planted around your squash, leaving your garden crops alone and untouched! There’s one type of vegetable in particular that common squash pests can’t resist. I’ll share what it is and how to use it to protect the precious gourds in your garden.

Know Your Enemy

What exactly do cucumber beetles and squash vine borers do in your garden? They can destroy your entire squash harvest. But let’s take a closer look at how, so you understand how to defend against them.

Squash vine borers might be the most problematic pest of summer squash. Their parents are moths who lay eggs in the soil near squash plants. The borers emerge from cocoons to eat right through the stem of your squash, killing plants in the process. Since this happens underground, it’s easy to miss this problem until it is too late.

Despite their name, cucumber beetles also love zucchini and other types of squash. They are not squirmy, nor do they live underground like squash vine borers. In fact, they look a lot like ladybugs, except they are yellow with black markings. These pests eat the leaves, flowers, and fruits of your squash plants and they can also transmit bacterial wilt.

What Is Trap Cropping?

When I think of a perimeter intended to protect my plants, fencing is the first thing that comes to mind. When I was sowing acorns on my land in France in order to start a forest, I installed fencing all the way around the land to keep the wild ponies from chowing down my seedlings.

But a protective perimeter doesn’t have to be made of chicken wire and stakes to be effective. In a vegetable garden, the pests are smaller than Basque ponies and can crawl through or fly over almost any physical barrier. That’s why trap crops work so well.

A trap crop doesn’t block the passage of pests. Rather, it attracts the pests so much that they never need to go past it and into your garden.

Meet Your New Ally: Blue Hubbard Squash

There is one vegetable that is practically irresistible to squash pests: the Blue Hubbard squash. It is a delicious, edible squash that doubles as the perfect trap crop. You can get Blue Hubbard squash seeds on Amazon.

It’s a large, heirloom winter squash with tough, bumpy skin that’s a weird shade of blue. And when I say large, I mean large! Blue Hubbards can grow up to 40 pounds (18.1 kg), offering plenty of sweet orange flesh for cooking.

But the main benefit of Blue Hubbard squash is that it’s wildly attractive to pests that eat other types of squash. Spotted and striped cucumber beetles as well as squash vine borers would rather eat Blue Hubbard than most other squashes any day of the week. That means that you can organically control pests using Blue Hubbard squash as a trap crop.

Benefits of a Blue Hubbard Trap Crop

Using Blue Hubbard squash for pest control is a win-win for your garden. It has been proven to lower pest infestations on summer squash by up to 95% for cucumber beetles and 88% for squash vine borers. And it does so without killing any beneficial insects, like pollinators.

This system also decreases the need for chemicals in the garden, focusing on an environmentally friendly practice that supports biodiversity instead. Over time, you will see better yields for your squash at a low cost.

The cherry on the top? Blue Hubbard squash plants grow so fast that they help keep weeds out of your garden, too. That means less toxins and less effort to combat weeds. Plus, they make delicious pies and breads!

How to Use Blue Hubbard as a Trap Crop

There are several ways you can use Blue Hubbard squash in your garden to protect your other squash plants as well as other cucurbits like cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons.

The first is to plant a literal perimeter of Blue Hubbard around your garden bed. Plant sufficient Blue Hubbard crops to completely encircle the main crop you wish to protect. This keeps your squash free of pests and also free of pesticides.

But you don’t have to do a complete perimeter to get the benefits of Blue Hubbard. You can use just 6 to 8 Blue Hubbard squash plants at the corners of your garden, placing them about 3 feet (1 m) from the center crop. This will protect a small garden of cucurbit plants.

Kill the Pests

Now that you’ve lured all the unwanted pests to your Blue Hubbard trap crop, it’s time to capture and kill them. If you don’t kill the cucumber beetles and squash vine borers on the trap plants, they will continue to reproduce on those plants. Subsequent generations may move over to the squash garden with the plants you wanted to protect.

It’s best to kill pests using a non-toxic method, like sucking them up with a reverse leaf blower, hand-picking them from plants and squishing them, or by spraying them with an organic pesticide like neem oil, which you can get on Amazon.

Carnival squash is just one variety of over 100 categorized types of these cucurbits. One of the most colorful squash varieties, the ‘field pumpkin’ (Cucurbita pepo) is a relative of pumpkins and gourds. Carnival acorn squash is a winter squash variety with a hard rind and pleasant flesh. Can you eat carnival squash? Yes, absolutely – and these plump beauties are amongst the most delicious common types of squash you can eat. Carnival squash is most often roasted, where the flesh becomes tender, and it’s a perfect side dish for meats and other main dishes.

Read on to find out how to grow and harvest this cute and colorful squash cultivar, and how to propagate plants for future feasts.

Carnival Squash Care

Key areas of attention for cultivating successful carnival squash, as when growing other squash varieties, are space and support. Factor in ample growing room around individual cucurbit plants (a couple of feet works best), and ideally incorporate some form of climbing support for plants in the form of a trellis or a framework of stakes. When growing carnival squash, you then need to focus on the following for plants that thrive and crops that are as healthy, bountiful and robust as possible.

• Light:
  As you will find when growing winter squash, carnivals need at least six hours of full sun daily. A lighting range of eight-ten hours per day will result in more blossoms and therefore fruits. Plant seeds in a sunny location of the garden in prepared soil.
• Watering:
  Seeds and seedlings should be kept moist but not soggy. As the plant matures, it is best to water deeply but infrequently. This allows the plant to develop deep roots and makes them more drought-tolerant. Water when the top few inches (8cm) feel dry to the touch. As with butternut squash, water once or twice a week with two inches (5cm) of water. The best time to water is early morning. This reduces evaporation and allows the plant to uptake moisture. It will also cut down on fungal disease by allowing the leaves to dry quickly.
• Temperature & Humidity:
  The seed may be planted in soil that has warmed to 65°F (18°C) but a temperature of 70°F (21°C) will result in quicker germination. During the growing period, the ideal temperature range is 50-60°F (10-15.5°C) with a 50 percent humidity. Squash plants can tolerate a light frost for a few hours, but if temperatures drop below freezing they will need a blanket or frost-free fabric for protection.
• Soil and Compost:
  Fertile, loose, well-draining soil is a must. Sand, loam and light clay are all fine. A soil pH of 6-6.8 is perfect. Incorporate compost, leaf litter or other organic soil amendments prior to planting to loosen soil, help hold moisture, and enhance the nutrient level of the soil.
• Fertilizer Needs:
  Squash are heavy feeders and need plenty of nutrients to produce the heaithiest, sweetest squash fruits. Incorporate compost to the soil prior to planting or mix in a fertilizer with a ratio of 5-10-10. You can side dress with well-rotted manure, add compost to top the hills, or use compost tea every two-three weeks. If using a synthetic fertilizer, use a balanced ratio. After fertilizing, water the material in well to help release the nutrients and prevent foliage burn.
  

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Overwatering and watering overhead can cause fungal disease. There are many pests of squash. To prevent some issues, use row covers or hoop houses in the plant’s early development. Squash vine borers, squash bugs, striped cucumber beetles and aphids are the top pests. Aphids may transmit viruses that can damage the plant. Fusarium, downy mold and foot rot are the usually encountered diseases.

Carnival Squash Propagation

The most common method of growing carnival squash is from seed, but it may also be propagated from cuttings. You may start seed indoors three weeks prior to the last date of frost or directly into the ground once the soil has warmed. For stem cuttings, choose healthy stems with two or three growth nodes. Place the cut end into rich, loose soil in a sunny location.

Repotting Carnival Squash

Winter squash are not often grown in a container. However, it is possible to grow squash in containers with a large enough vessel and support. Young plants should be replanted into larger containers as they outgrow their nursery pots. By the time the plant produces its first flower, it should be in a container large enough to sustain it for the remainder of the season. Stakes or trellises can be used to grow vertically and support the vines.

Harvesting Carnival Squash

Carnival squash is ready to harvest about 55 days after fruit has started to appear. All the fruit should be harvested before the first frost. When harvesting squash, cut the fruits off with pruners or a knife. Sun cure for five-seven days. You can also cure them indoors in an area with a temperature of 80°F (27°C) and good ventilation. These should then be stored where temperatures range from 50-60°F (10-15.5°C) and humidity of 50-70 percent. The fruits will keep for several months in cooler temperatures with good air movement.

Frequently Asked Questions

There are two common types of squash - summer and winter - which are members of the Cucurbitaceae family along with pumpkins and gourds. This family contains over 100 genera and over 700 species of different types of squash.

Historically, various squash types have been used not only as food sources but also as household items. With so many varieties of squash, it’s difficult to narrow it down to 2 or3, which is as much space as most of us have for growing squash in our gardens.

Things get even more complex if we consider that squash also refers to watermelons, muskmelons, pumpkins, cucumbers and gourds. For our purposes however, I’m going to narrow it down to two kinds of squash, summer and winter, and discuss the 10 different types of squash I think you should know about and include in your garden.

Common Types of Squash

As mentioned, squash is divided into two common categories: summer and winter varieties. Summer squash are those squash that can be picked throughout the summer when the skin is still soft, immature and edible, while winter squash is harvested when it is mature and the skin is hard, generally late in the summer to early fall.

Tender summer squash has another difference from its relative winter squash - it doesn't keep for nearly as long. Winter squash, with its more impervious rind, can be stored and kept for 1-6 months.

1. Zucchini

Likely the most common of the summer squash, zucchini is a green, thin skinned squash that can be eaten fresh or roasted, sauteed, stuffed or even grated into dessert recipes. Interestingly, the seeds and flowers (stuffed squash blossoms!) are edible as well.

Zucchini isn’t only green. It also comes in a brilliant yellow which is much the same flavor, possibly a bit sweeter, than green zucchini. In either case, bigger doesn’t always mean better. The fruit grows rapidly and if you don’t check everyday you may end up with zucchini the size of a baseball bat. Unfortunately, these huge zucchini lack flavor somewhat and the seeds and skin become tough, so pick them when small.

2. Pattypan

So adorable, patty pan squash have a unique scalloped edge and come in green, yellow or a combination of the two hues. They're great quickly sauteed to keep their crunch, or can be grilled or stuffed depending on their size.

3. Luffa

This one is a bit of a surprise. We’ve all heard of loofah sponges... maybe you even have one in your shower. But did you know they are made from a squash? A loofah sponge is a fully mature luffa squash. The luffa dries as it matures with the skin cracking to reveal the interior of the squash - a loofah sponge fit for scrubbing.

Young luffa look like zucchini with ridges, and they can be eaten raw like a cucumber or used in recipes instead of zucchini.

4. Yellow Squash

Yellow squash comes either as crookneck or straightneck. Crookneck squash looks just like what it sounds like: a yellow squash with a curved neck. It is usually harvested when it is more mature to allow the fruit to form a curved neck. This means this variety has larger seeds and thicker skin than other summer squash varieties.

Straightneck squash is the same vibrant yellow color as crookneck but lacking the curved neck. Both have slightly bumpy, yellow skin with white flesh. It can also be cooked and used much like zucchini.

5. Zephyr

Zephyr squash is a dense summer squash, rather similar to patty pan’s texture. It is a hybrid of yellow crookneck and two winter squash - acorn and delicata - so it’s not precisely a summer or a winter squash.

Zephyr is a two tone squash. Light green at the blossom end and yellow at the top stem end. Its interior is creamy hued with a rich, sweet, nutty flavor. Here again, the leaves and flowers are edible as well.

6. Spaghetti

Spaghetti squash is hands down my favorite winter squash if only because it is nothing like the others. The closest thing the texture resembles is the reason for its name. The interior of this squash is entirely reminiscent of spaghetti - yes, the pasta! And with its mild, neutral flavor, it can be used exactly like it.

Its rind ranges from yellow/orange to a lemony yellow. When cooked the creamy flesh separates into stringy spaghetti-like strands. What a way to get the kids to eat their veggies!

7. Kabocha

Kabocha squash or Japanese pumpkin has a bumpy, dark green rind. The bright orange flesh has a rich, buttery flavor. It is a bit starchier but similar to pumpkins, and said to be a cross between a winter squash and sweet potato.

Commonly found in Thai and Japanese cuisine, kabocha is getting quite a following elsewhere for its rich almost custardy flesh and sweet, chestnut-like flavor.

8. Carnival

Carnival squash is a small to medium sized squash, round and squat with deep furrowing and festive green and white striping. It is a hybrid of acorn and sweet dumpling squash. It has a sweet, mild flavor similar to butternut and - much like butternut - works well in soups, stews or casseroles.

9. Butternut

Butternut squash is an extremely popular squash notable for being the main ingredient in delectable butternut soup. This nutty squash is at home using a variety of kitchen techniques, but roasting the flesh really elevates the flavor.

Butternut is a bottle or pear-shaped squash, tan in color, with a bulbous end and bright orange flesh. Packed with fiber, butternut has a sweet, nutty flavor. It sautes beautifully but best of all, it purees smoothly making it the perfect soup base.

10. Blue Hokkaido

Blue hokkaido squash is actually a type of pumpkin with surprising and very unusual blue/gray skin under which lies brilliantly orange flesh.

Subtly sweet and very nutty, it lends itself well to a simple dish of roasted squash with salt and pepper or can be pureed or mashed into sweet bakery items or soups.

Frequently Asked Questions

Choosing the sweetest squash can be a challenge, as there are so many varieties available. You can grow both summer and winter squash, and between them, they encompass over 100 varieties. Many are tasty and satisfying, with flavors ranging from nutty to buttery, but which are the best for sweetness? If your experience of growing squash has only resulted in the occasional slice of zucchini bread or carving of pumpkin, this is your chance to cultivate and harvest some of the most divine varieties available.

Squash is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers. Often grown and harvested as a vegetable, squash is botanically a fruit. Native to the Andes and Mesoamerica, there are five edible species consumed for their flesh and seeds. They may be referred to as squashes, gourds or pumpkins. We've included winter and squash varieties in our selection of the sweetest. Summer squash is a tender fruit, while winter squash has a harder outer shell to give fruit a longer shelf life. 

The Sweetest Squash for Every Season

If you've grown pumpkins for cooking, you'll know they can be used for sweets like pies, quick breads and cookies. But are they the sweetest squash available? Assuming pumpkins are as far as you've ever ventured, prepare to be amazed. Winter squash varieties for those with sweet cravings comes with delectable names, including Bonbon, Buttercup, Carnival, Sweet Dumpling and Tahiti Melon. 

Meanwhile, sugary summer squash varieties include Cousa, Papaya Pear, Tatume, Tromboncino and Zephyr. How to pick the best-tasting squash is arguably a matter of personal taste – and you're certainly spoiled for choice. But here are some of the sweetest varieties to grow and harvest.

Best Tasting Winter Squash for Sweetness

Perhaps you've only ever tried winter squash in the form of a pumpkin pie, which has been sweetened with other ingredients? But some of the best-tasting winter squash are also some of the most naturally sweet. Give some of these squash varieties a try, and you’ll see each has unique characteristics. 

Pink Banana

Highly productive, this tender-fleshed option is the largest of the non-pumpkin varieties. Pink Banana can weigh over 50 pounds (23 kg), with a pale pink or pinky orange skin. Delicious in bakes.

Honeynut

Honeynut looks like a butternut, but has an even sweeter taste. One of the best tasting winter squash for seasonal soups, this honeyed variety is also delightful when roasted and mashed.

Kabocha

Kabocha squash (aka Japanese squash) has a creamy sweetness that is ideal for roasting and stuffing. This squash variety is a staple of Japanese cuisine and it also makes a delicious tempura.

• Also recommended:
• Honey Bear – One of the sweetest varieties of acorn squash, and perfect cut in half and roasted, with no need for a brown sugar topping. It really lives up to its name.
• Delicata – This squash has a thinner edible rind than other winter squashes and is fabulous baked or sliced into soup. Also delicious roasted with maple syrup.
• Butternut – Widely held to be some of the best-tasting squash, butternut squash have a rich, dense taste, evocative of sweet potatoes.

Best Tasting Summer Squash for Sweetness

Many of the best-tasting summer squash have a fresh or nutty taste. These include Green Eggs, Eight Ball and Gold Rush Yellow Zucchini. Indeed, many gardeners have some experience of growing zucchini in the home garden. While it is versatile, zucchini tends to absorb the flavors of other ingredients with which it is cooked. So here are a few of the sweetest summer squash.

Patty Pans

Patty Pans are not only beautiful fluted, yellow squash, but they also have a lovely buttery, nutty flavor. Thanks to their firm texture, you can cook them at a relatively high heat. Lovely when roasted or grilled.

Ronde de Nice

This tender French heirloom variety is a baby round zucchini with mellow, sweet flavor. Nutty and creamy, the compact yet generously fleshed Ronde de Nice is perfect for stuffing or roasting. 

Cube of Butter

Cube of Butter squash has a creamy white flesh with a buttery flavor. These sunny-skinned, cylindrical fruits can be picked small or large, and are excellent eaten raw or cooked.

Choosing the Sweetest Squash for Cooking

When identifying the sweetest types of squash for cooking, maturity and season have a part to play. Harvest summer squash when the fruit is immature and the rind is tender, and eat either fresh or cooked with the skin on. Eat soon after harvest, or store in the refrigerator for up to a week. Summer squash is best for grills and stir fries. It generally becomes soft and degrades rapidly if over-cooked.

Winter squash is picked at maturity, and its hard rind is discarded either before or after cooking. The seeds of many winter squashes are delicious roasted. These varieties are ready late summer-early fall. Store them in a cool, dry area for two-four months. Cooked with the skin on or off, they hold up much better to longer cooking times. 

Don't Forget the Best-Tasting Blooms

We're sure this selection will satisfy your sweet tooth – but make sure you save some room for the equally tasty floral arrangements. That's right, harvesting squash flowers gives you some of the best-tasting menu accents for celebrations, dinners, or even cheeky snacks. You can eat the bloom from any type of squash, and they are delicious. They taste a bit like a radish and can be eaten fresh or cooked. The best way to cook them is to stuff them or dip them in batter and fry them. Enjoy!

As humans, we are omnivorous and eat a host of foods. And our furry and feathered friends seem to enjoy a similar diverse diet. It is not unusual to check the vegetable patch and find some gnaw marks in our food, especially squash. What animals eat squash? The answer is as varied as our wildlife.

Identifying Insect and Animal Foraging on Squash

The signs are unmistakable. Scratch marks, strangely shaped bites, and even tunneling in our squash. In the plant itself, often the leaves are skeletonized or simply completely gone. Something other than the gardener has been enjoying the fruits of their labor.

In the early days of a plant’s growth, it is common to find seedlings entirely cut off, the likely work of cutworms, but as the plant matures the fruit is also often attacked by larger consumers. While it is a classic joke that a zucchini plant can feed hundreds, we really don’t plant our food crops to share with animals and insects. In order to keep the harvest for ourselves, we need to recognize what animals eat squash plants and how to control the invaders.

What Animals Eat Squash?

When you head out to your garden plot to harvest some tender young squash for dinner, and the evidence is clear, you may be wondering, “what is eating my squash fruit?” Insects are often the initial pests that denude a plant of leaves and may even eat the roots of seedlings.

Figuring out who is the culprit starts with looking for clues. Is there tunneling present? It could be rats, woodchucks, shrews, voles, moles, or other animals who dig routes underground. If the lowest leaves are lost, shorter animals like rabbits, raccoons, or skunks may be the culprit. Cute little chipmunks and squirrels are classic offenders and difficult to keep out of the garden due to their agility and speed. Deer don’t enjoy prickly foods, but modern cultivars of spineless squash make the foliage quite inviting. While the gardener is mulling around trying to figure out what’s eating my garden squash, there are also tracks to consider. Deer tracks are large and easily identified by the 2 part curved hooves marking in damp soil.

Finally look to the skies. If you have a large bird population, congratulations, but these feathered animals also enjoy a peck or two of squash fruit. Many animals will find summer squashes particularly delectable due to their moisture content during hot, dry summers.

How to Keep Animals from Eating Squash Plants

After identifying the culprit(s), it’s time to turn your attention to how to keep animals from eating squash plants.

Fencing

Fencing will keep most browsing, larger animals out of the garden plot. It is recommended to erect a fence of at least 6 feet (1.8 m) in height to keep deer and similar pests out of the veggie garden.

Repellents

Natural repellents can dissuade certain animals. Heavily scented items like garlic, onions, mustard, and even rotten eggs can keep certain animals from eating plants. Spraying tasty leaves with a dissolved mix or hot pepper or cinnamon is also effective in some cases. Products such as predator urine will send the animals scurrying away in fear.

Caging

Cages and bird netting are simple ways to cover the plants and prevent animals such as rabbits and birds.

Clearing the Area

A great tip is to remove other attractive elements on the property. Ensure garbage cans are lidded, remove bird feeders and water sources, do not leave pet food outside, and clean up debris areas that might be nesting or cover areas.

Can You Eat Squash Fruit That Has Been Nibbled Upon?

In most cases, it is not advisable to try to consume fruits that have signs of gnawing. Animals like mice and rats carry many types of disease. Other animals could transfer fecal contamination to the fruits, which would be dangerous to eat. Fecal contamination could introduce bacteria, parasites, and viruses that the human immune system cannot quell easily.

It is the gardener’s choice as to whether they wish to take a chance on eating lightly damaged produce. If so, wash the fruit thoroughly and cut away every vestige of damage. Fruits that are slightly damaged in the end are the best choice for consumption. Fruits that have bites out of the center should be composted. Consider cooking the fruit completely to kill any potential pathogens.

All varieties of squash will cross pollinate with each other, resulting in some unusual squash varieties. They are also intentionally bred in an effort to produce squash with unique traits. Some of the weird squash varieties that result may be found on the dinner table or may simply end up as interesting yard art.

Unusual Squash to Try

In the heirloom category, there are numerous rare types of squash. Many of these were once thought lost, but careful seed collection has seen these varieties come to modern light. Combine this fact with today’s breeding programs, and the wild, and wacky world of squash is a colorful, shape shifting universe.

Rare Squash Varieties

Many of the hard to find varieties of squash are heirlooms, and many of these were introduced for sale in the mid to late 1800s when seed catalogs flourished. Over the years, these varieties were often overlooked in favor of squash with easier growth patterns, resistance to disease and pests, better flavor, longer shelf life, and more conventional appearances. Catering to the consumer, breeders know that a vegetable or fruit bought at the supermarket must be perfect in the eyes of the buyer. So many of the types of squash grown by our grandparents were shucked to the wayside in an effort to please buyers' palates and eyes.

But a resurgence has begun, with food enthusiasts taking an interest in the types of plants our forebears grew and ate. Saving seed from these old cultivars has brought about old, rare squash varieties that haven’t been grown in decades.

• Olive Squash- Sweet, thick, golden flesh with an olive hued skin. Useful in small gardens due to the shorter, low growing vines.
• Candy Roaster- Related to Turban and Hubbard, this squash was originally grown by the Cherokee people. A fat, banana-like squash with orange rind, streaked with green at the blossom end.
• Pattypan- A very attractive small squash with scalloped edges. In both white and yellow, pattypan squash is also called custard marrow and boasts sweet, creamy meat after cooking.
• Red Kuri- A small squash with an oval form and reddish-orange rind.
• Pike’s Peak- Probably originated from the native people and similar in appearance to a Hubbard. This fruit has excellent storage capacity and is considered at its peak after months of storage.
• Banana Squash- A very large fruit is produced, up to 35 pounds (16 kg). Banana squash are creamy, beige fruits with flesh suited for both savory or sweet dishes.
• Sweet Meat- Flattish fruits, heirloom variety. Fruits are up to 15 pounds (7 kg).

Unusual Summer Squash Varieties

Summer squash are classic fruits during the growing season. Because they do not store long term, they are features of summer BBQs and picnic foods. The skin is edible on these fruits, and flesh is soft (even more so when cooked). They may be eaten raw or prepared in a variety of ways. Fruits should be picked when young, but it is not uncommon for gardeners to have massive fruits and copious yields.

• Cocozelle- Long, slender fruit adorned with light green stripes
• Gold Rush- Actually a zucchini, although it sports deeply gold skin
• Vegetable Marrow White Bush- A zucchini with creamy, greenish skin and long, rounded fruits
• Sundance- An early yellow crookneck with smooth skin
• Goldbar- An early yellow straightneck
• Butter Blossom- Open pollinated plant with sweet, creamy flesh
• Scallopini- A scallop squash with small, white fruits that come all season long

Pumpkins

Among the unique squash varieties, pumpkins are one of the most diverse. We use them in pies, curries, as holiday decor, and more. Pumpkins run the gamut in size from little ones you can cup in your hand, to prize winning mammoths that take a forklift to move. Their rinds may be smooth, warty, uniform in color, or splashed with a variety of hues. The flesh is also diverse, with some stringy, others creamy, and a wide range of sweetness.

Some pumpkins are best used in sweet recipes, while others stand out in savory dishes. There are pink and blue varieties like Australian butter (pink), Blue Doll (blue), Jarrahdale (blue), and Marina di Chioggia, a lovely pastel pink. Asian pumpkins have been grown in the West since before the 1600s with several varieties still widely available. Yuxijianbinggua, Chirimen, and Shishigatani are notable selections.

• Red Warty Thing- A colorful name that says it all.
• Speckled Hound- Lovely orange skin spotted with blue-green marbling.
• Wolf- A true jack-o-lantern form with a large curved, sturdy stem.
• One Too Many- Another colorful name that describes its appearance as a heavy drinker’s bloodshot eyeballs.
• Peanut Pumpkin- A small to medium pumpkin with pinkish beige skin covered in rough bumps.

Have you ever wondered if there is a difference between squash vs. zucchini? It's tempting to define zucchini as having the classic cylindrical shape and green skin. Yet, there are varieties of yellow zucchini which look quite similar to straightneck squash. To add to the confusion, some cultivars of summer squash are long and green. Turns out, there is one feature that distinguishes summer squash from most zucchini.

Summer Squash vs. Zucchini: Similarities

Zucchini and most types of summer squash belong to the same species (Cucurbita pepo). In fact, zucchini is technically a type of summer squash. The other main types of summer squash include straightneck, crookneck, and pattypan varieties. These types are marketed with the squash name, as in straightneck squash, crookneck squash, etc.

On the other hand, the term “squash” is not always included when zucchini seeds, plants, or fruit are offered for sale in the United States. This is also true for recipes that call for zucchini. In conversation, most gardeners and cooks also refer to this veggie simply as zucchini.

The word zucchini has its origins from zucchina, which is the Italian word for squash. It's believed Italian immigrants brought zucchini to the U.S. in the 1920s and it seems the name stuck. Coincidentally, zucchini is called courgette in some countries, like England, and baby marrow in others.

Regardless of what it's called, zucchini has the same growing requirements as other types of summer squash. All require full sun and moist, well-draining soil. Most summer squash, including zucchini, have a bushy, short vined growth habit, and produce mature fruit in 40 to 50 days. All types of summer squash have tender skin and edible flowers.

Zucchini vs. Squash: Differences

If zucchini is simply a type of summer squash, why is there a distinction between yellow squash vs. zucchini with yellow skin. Are they the same thing? Turns out, there is a slight difference.

If you lay a yellow straightneck squash next to a yellow zucchini, you will see that the blossom end of the summer squash is more bulbous. Zucchini fruit has an even diameter from blossom end to the stem. This allows summer squash to have more seeds and these seeds will be more developed in the bulbous end as compared to a zucchini of the same size.

As for taste, both summer squash and zucchini have the same mild flavor. So, there you have it. The main difference between straightneck squash and zucchini is the shape. This is true whether you're comparing green squash vs. zucchini or yellow zucchini varieties to straightneck ones.

If you'd like to conduct your own comparative trials between cylindrical-shaped zucchini and straightneck squash, here are a few popular varieties to try in the garden:

Green Zucchini

• Black Beauty – A popular heirloom variety, Black Beauty has greenish black skin and the classic zucchini shape.
• Cocozelle – The white striping on the green fruit makes this Italian heirloom easier to spot in the garden. Cocozelle has a slightly nutty flavor.

Green Summer Squash

• Luciana – It's also easy to spot the gray flecked, light green skin of this hybrid. Luciana has a sweet, buttery flavor with nutty accents.
• Magda – Prized for its delicate flavor, this Mediterranean squash has a blocky shape and light green skin with white flecks.

Yellow Zucchini Varieties

• Burpee Butterstick – Along with the classic cylindrical zucchini shape, this hybrid produces lemon colored fruit that has a nutty, sweet flavor.
• Gold Rush – This high-yielding zucchini has a mild, sweet flavor and a brilliant yellow color.

Yellow Straightneck Squash

• Early Prolific – A popular heirloom variety, Early Prolific bears fruit with bright yellow skin and a buttery flavor.
• Enterprise – Adaptable to hot climates, this hybrid has creamy yellow skin and a savory, mild flavor.

When they are healthy and conditions are optimal, zucchini and other squash can produce heavily. But what happens when you have a zucchini or other squash growing into an odd shape? Pointy squash or other weird shaped zucchini may be the result of a number of issues, but often zucchini pollination problems are the culprit. Keep reading to learn about deformed squash and what you can do to prevent it.

What Causes Squash Deformities?

There are two basic reasons for deformed fruit: viral infection and pollination issues. Plants that are infected by viruses often produce smaller than average, misshapen fruit. Since viral diseases cannot be controlled with pesticides, the only option is to remove and destroy the infected plants to prevent any further spread.

If your squash is fruiting but the resulting fruit is deformed, the root cause often has to do with pollination. High temperatures combined with water stress or low nighttime temperatures typically affect pollination. Fruit may have pinched blossom ends or may be crooked, resulting in bottle necking or in fruit that has been pinched in.

Less commonly other stressors such as wind damage, root pruning during cultivation, or herbicide injury may result in odd looking fruit. Potassium deficiency may also result in a narrowing or pinching at the stem end.

Squash Pollination Problems

When temperatures are hot, squash along with other crops such as cucumbers may drop blossoms or set more male than female blooms, resulting in little to no fruit. If temperatures continue in the extreme and/or other stressors are present, the resulting fruit may be smaller than normal or deformed.

But the real problem is the bees. As temperatures soar, many bees abandon their pollinating duties. The ideal range for pollination for many bee species is between 60-90 F (16-32 C). Once temps exceed 90 F (32 C) the bees cease to or slow their pollinating efforts. This is most especially observed on vining crops like squash. If pollination does occur it may result in deformed fruit.

Zucchini Pollination

When pollination is inadequate, fruit develops unevenly. The walls of the ovary enlarge more next to fertilized seeds, resulting in weird looking zucchini or other squash. This may be due to extreme heat which in turn affects how bees pollinate.

All crops in the Cucurbitaceae family cross pollinate to produce fruit. This means they have separate male and female blooms on the same plant. Pollen is moved from male to female organs via bees and other pollinator insects. The pollen then fertilizes the ovules or seeds inside the ovary.

When pollination is accomplished, fruit results. If pollination is successful, the fruit enlarges and develops normally. When it is insufficient, fruit becomes deformed and twisted.

Besides the fact that successful pollination relies on both male and female flowers along with pollinators, another detriment is that the blooms are only open for a single day. This means the window for pollination is narrow and drought or water stress can severely affect the outcome.

What to do about Misshapen Zucchini

Both extreme heat and cool, wet weather can deter bee pollination. So too can pesticide application. Do not apply pesticides other than horticultural oil or insecticidal soaps during bloom time.

While there is little that can be done regarding the weather, gardeners can shield plants from the heat of the day and make sure to provide consistent irrigation.

Otherwise, while most zucchini require both male and female blossoms for a successful fruit set, parthenocarpic varieties may solve the problem of un-pollinated female blooms. Parthenocarpic species produce female blooms that do not need pollination for fruit sets, effectively eliminating the need for bee pollination and possibly resulting in fruit that is not marred.

Growing your own produce takes time, money, and energy. Losing these crops can be frustrating, especially when you don't know the cause. If you're experiencing issues with cucurbit plant stem splitting, let's look at some possible causes and what can be done to prevent these problems.

Squash, Melon, and Cucumber Stem Split

Several circumstances can cause stems to split on maturing cucurbit crops. These plants often have long, hollow stems that can be easily damaged by the weight of the foliage or fruit. Splits, tears, and twisted stems can be especially problematic after a windy storm. If this happens frequently, try locating the cucurbits in a sheltered location against a wall or solid fence.

Damage can also occur when animals, such as deer or the neighborhood dog, decide to walk through the garden. If the animal steps on or gets tangled in the vine, damage can occur which could result in a split. Installing a fence around the area or trellising cucurbit vines are the best ways to protect them from this type of damage.

Cucurbit pests also cause damage to vines, which can lead to squash or cucumber vine splitting. In particular, the larvae of the squash vine borer will make entrance holes in the stem and then tunnels inside the vine to feed. These creamy white, maggot-like larvae are most active during late June and early July. Use crop rotation and floating row covers to prevent adult moths from laying eggs near cucurbit crops.

Environmental changes are another possible cause of cracked stems in cucurbits. This can occur when root-bound seedlings are transplanted into the garden. The sudden abundance of nutrients, water, and space can cause rapid growth resulting in weak stems that are prone to cracking. Rain after a dry spell or improperly timed fertilizer can also cause rapid growth spurts in older plants. When this happens, cover the split vine with soil to encourage rooting and prevent pests or diseases from gaining access to exposed plant tissues.

Cold Damage and Cucurbit Crops

If you're finding a cucumber, melon, or zucchini stem split, the most likely cause is cold damage. As a warm weather crop, cucurbits can suffer cold damage when the temperature drops to 40 degrees F. (4 C.) or below. Yet, cold injury is cumulative. A few cold days in the 50 to 60 degree F. (10-16 C.) range can be just as damaging as a brief dip in the 40s.

Splits from cold damage are often observed near the soil line. While these injuries will often heal over, they provide an entry point for plant diseases and pests. In addition, a split stem creates a weak spot that is more prone to break or twist in windy conditions.

To prevent the cold weather from damaging cucurbit crops, consider transplanting seedlings only after warm summer temperatures have arrived. Alternatively, covering cucurbit crops with row covers or low tunnels will trap heat from the ground. These practices can keep the air inside five to ten degrees warmer.

Should you find a cucumber, melon, or squash stem split, bury the injured section of vine, or apply a fungicide to the damaged area as a preventative measure against diseases.

As fall approaches many happy home gardeners begin decorating with colorful bounties from the garden, farmer's market or local store. Yet, distinguishing between squash, pumpkins and gourds is not always easy. This leaves many home decorators wondering, “Is a pumpkin a squash or a gourd or is a pumpkin just a pumpkin?

The Differences Among Pumpkins, Squash and Gourds

In the simplest terms, we carve pumpkins, cook squash and decorate with gourds. Yet, the lines between these three terms are somewhat blurred. Not all pumpkins are grown for jack-o-lanterns and some gourds can be eaten when young.

Let's unravel this mystery by first talking about the similarities between the three. They are all members of the Cucurbitaceae family. In addition to pumpkins, squash and gourds, this family is also home to cucumbers and melons. As you may have guessed, cucurbits are herbaceous vining plants. However, some members like zucchini grow on very short vines.

The Cucurbitaceae family consists of approximately 125 genera. Plants referred to as pumpkins and squash belong to the Cucurbita genus, but some decorative gourds are also found here. Other gourds, like birdhouse, snake and luffa are listed in other genera within the Cucurbitaceae family.

To break it down further, pumpkins, squash and gourds have varieties in the Cucurbita pepo species. Yet pumpkins and squash cultivars can also be found in Cucurbita maxima, Cucurbita moschata and Cucurbita mixta. Thus, scientific classification alone doesn't clearly distinguish among the three. We have to dig a little deeper.

Squash vs. Pumpkin

Some people say that pumpkins are simply a type of squash. When we consider the difference between squash and pumpkin, it's often based on shape, size and usage. We typically think of pumpkins as being larger and rounder than most squash. Of course, there are exceptions such as miniature pumpkins, pie pumpkins and round varieties of squash like acorn and buttercup.

Pie, or sugar pumpkins as they are sometimes called, are not only smaller, but also tend to be sweeter with a creamier flesh than those grown for carving. As a generality, we could say that pumpkins grown for consumption are often used in desserts or baked goods, like muffins and cakes.

On the other hand, the various types of squash are typically used in entrees or side dishes that have spicy or savory flavors. It should be noted, however, that butternut squash is considered sweeter than sugar pumpkins and delicata squash has a flesh that rivals the creaminess of pie pumpkins. So again, the lines are blurred.

Gourd vs. Squash

One way we often distinguish between gourds and squash is that gourds are grown primarily for decoration or use in crafts, while squash is cultivated for food. Yet, some types of gourds, like the snake gourd (Trichosanthes cucumerina) can be eaten when young and tender. Other gourds, however, have bitter, stringy flesh and are largely considered inedible. 

The difference between pumpkin and gourd classification also becomes fuzzy when we consider varieties like miniature pumpkins. Are these cultivars in the Cucurbita pepo species edible or solely for decoration? Turns out, you can eat them.

However, they are often sold alongside inedible varieties of C. pepo gourds. Purchasing these adorable miniature pumpkins for consumption is not advisable as decorative fruit may have been sprayed with poisons like shellac to preserve their beauty. 

Bottom line, Cucurbita is a Latin word whose English translation means gourd. Thus, the term gourd can technically refer to any of the tendril-bearing members of the Cucurbitaceae family. In addition to pumpkins, squash and gourds, this also includes fruits and vegetables such as cucumbers, watermelon and cantaloupe. 

If you're more confused now than before, just remember this generality. We carve pumpkins, cook squash and decorate with gourds.

Greens are an excellent source of vitamins and minerals. Many of us are familiar with spinach and lettuce, but there are many other sources of edible greens. Our ancestors taught us to enjoy turnip greens, beet leaves, and other foliage from our vegetable plants. But are squash leaves edible? Young squash plants of many varieties are a tasty and nutritious vegetable. So, look outside the box and harvest some foliage for a diverse dinner table.

Avid grazers know about the many wild plants nature provides for our recipes. But you don't have to be a wild forager to enjoy some unique taste sensations in your recipes. Eating squash leaves provides many health benefits and may be enjoyed just like Swiss chard or spinach. Learn how to cook squash leaves for a quick, heart healthy meal.

Can You Eat Zucchini Leaves?

Squash leaves of many varieties provide a rich source of the Vitamins A, B, and C, as well as minerals like iron, calcium, zinc, potassium, and magnesium. Squash leaves have a scratchy exterior that isn't entirely pleasant when eaten raw. For this reason, it is recommended that they are boiled, steamed, or stir-fried.

The best leaves are the new, young ones, which are less fibrous than older foliage. Make sure the leaves are not harvested from a plant that has been sprayed with herbicides or pesticides. Collect leaves in the early morning when there is still dew on the foliage. Select leaves that are not bug eaten or sun scalded. Also avoid leaves with powdery mildew. The slender stems are also edible once cooked, but avoid the older, woody, stems. Early spring growth will provide the most toothsome leaves, but leave enough foliage on the plant for it to continue to harvest solar energy and grow.

Preparing Squash Leaves

Whether you are eating pumpkin leaves or another squash variety, preparation is the same. Wash the leaves thoroughly and dry them gently. It may be necessary to soak them in water to get all the dirt off and any small insects. Holding a leaf upside down, grasp the stem and pull it away from the rest of the leaf. The stem is hollow and you will be pulling strings from the center of the leaf. De-string all the leaves, which will be quite a bit.

Squash leaves cook to nothing once they hit heat, much like spinach. Don't worry about the rough hairs on the leaves. These will melt away after cooking, leaving a smooth mouth feel. You can choose to chop the leaves roughly or use them whole. Cleaned leaves will last in the refrigerator for a day or two when stored in a container lined with a damp paper towel, but it is best to use them as fresh as possible.

How to Cook Squash Leaves

The method you choose depends upon the recipe. If making a stir fry, add the leaves to the pan after any protein has been seared, and hard vegetables like carrots have softened. The leaves can be gently simmered for a few minutes in a tomato or other broth with herbs and seasonings. If using stems, blanch them briefly and then sauté in oil or butter with onions and garlic. Simmer leaves and stems in aromatics and coconut milk for an authentic Malaysian dish. Pumpkin greens are one of the sweeter squash greens, but you can also enjoy zucchini, yellow squash, butternut, and acorn leaves.

Acorn squash is a common type of winter squash grown for its sweet, nutty flavor. There are quite a few different types of acorn squash available -- predominantly orange acorn squash varieties. Most varieties of acorn squash have a dark green rind with a golden interior. However, there are also different kinds of acorn squash that yield orange to white fruit. 

About Acorn Squash

Considered a winter squash, acorn squash (Cucurbita pepo) is actually in the same family as summer squash like zucchini. While acorn squash is used as a vegetable, it is botanically classified as a fruit. 

This edible vining gourd may be found in some areas of the world year round, but in North America acorn squash is available from early fall to winter. 

Unlike other summer squash, acorn squash stores well in a cool, dry, and dark area for a month or even longer. As the squash is stored, it will continue to ripen with the deep green skin becoming progressively orange. 

Orange Acorn Squash Varieties

As mentioned, most acorn squash has an orange hued interior with a green rind. Of the orange acorn squash, Bush Table Queen is a typical dark green, acorn shaped gourd with deep ridging and bright orange flesh. With a harvest date of 80 days, it does well in container gardens. 

• Heirloom Table Queen is a vining variety with gold, nutty flesh ready to harvest in 85 days. 
• Early acorn hybrid yields compact plants suited for container growing and ready in just 75 days. 
• Table Ace is also ready to harvest in 75 days and is a good all around choice. 
• Ebony, as the name suggests, features deep green almost black skin with light orange flesh that is ready to harvest in 80 days. 
• On the smaller side is Cream of the Crop, which has buttery sweet and nutty flesh ready for harvest in 80 days. 

Different Varieties of Acorn Squash

Festival Hybrid produces cream colored squash with unique yellow striped skin and green circles at the blossom end. A much smaller squash weighing in at only a pound or two (0.5-0.9 kg.), this variety of acorn squash is ready in 100 days on compact plants. 

Even lighter is the White acorn, which has a shell that is indeed white with an interior of the palest yellow to cream. Unlike common green acorn squash varieties, White acorn squash was developed by Glenn Drowns in the 1980s and is most likely found at farmer’s markets or, of course, you can grow your own. 

Have you ever considered growing summer squash on a trellis? Growing vegetables vertically saves space, prevents pest damage, and reduces disease issues. Additionally, trellised veggie plants receive improved air circulation and sunlight exposure. This often leads to higher yields and most gardeners find these crops are easier to harvest.

How to Grow Summer Squash Vertically

Unlike other types of cucurbits, many summer squash varieties have a bushy growth habit. Some produce short vines which can be trained to a trellis. It's best to begin when the plants are very young. As the plants grow, tie the stalks to the trellis every few days. 

When growing summer squash vertically, it's advisable to choose varieties that are better adapted to trellis training:

• Black Forest Zucchini – Sometimes referred to by the French name “courgette,” black forest zucchini produces an abundance of long green squash on vines which can reach up to 7 feet (2 m.). This is a container-friendly variety.
• Delicata – Technically classified as a winter squash, this heirloom is a member of the same genus, Cucurbita pepo, as most summer squash varieties. The light green striped skin is tender when young and the creamy golden flesh has a sweet potato like flavor.
• Greybeard Zucchini – Highly recommended when vertical growing summer squash, this hybrid produces an abundance of fruit. Greybeard is a speckled grayish green squash with a mild flavor. 
• Little Gem – Also considered a winter squash, this trailing variety yields an abundance of small, round, dark green fruit in midsummer. The sugary flesh caramelizes nicely when fried.
• Rampicante (Tromboncino) Zucchini – This long, slender, Italian heirloom squash widens into a bulb at the blossom end. The light green skin is tender, and the flesh has a sweet nutty flavor. 
• Tatume – A round, green, Cucurbita pepo variety, Tatume can be harvested as a tender summer squash when soft-ball sized or left on the vine to mature as a golden winter squash. The flavorful flesh and larger diameter make the fruit an excellent choice for grilling. 

Summer Squash Trellis Ideas 

Creating a usable support system is key to growing summer squash vertically. Trellises can be crafted from a variety of materials but need to be strong enough to support plants and the fruit they produce. Here are a few suggestions for supporting a vertical squash crop.

Cages – From store-bought wire tomato cages to homemade wooden box-types, these support systems work well with short-vined summer squash plants. For heavier plants, stake the cage to prevent it from tipping over as the plant matures.

Fences – Summer squash plants don't have tendrils and require tying for vertical gardening. Solid wooden fences might not be the best option but weaving the growing tips of a squash plant in and out of a wire mesh fence is quite doable. Secure the stalk with strips of soft fabric to prevent slippage.

Stakes – A single wooden or metal stake can also be used to support a vertical summer squash plant. To prevent damaging the roots, drive the stakes into the ground before transplanting seedlings or sowing squash seeds.

Trellises – Constructed with wire mesh, netting, or string supported by wooden or metal stakes, trellises are one of the strongest support systems for growing vertical crops. Additionally, several permanently-installed trellises can be used when rotating cucurbit crops with other vertically grown vegetables like tomatoes.

If you have ever had a squash plant look healthy one day and then suddenly wilt the next, you may be looking at the work of squash vine borers. The insidious larvae of this clear-winged moth are responsible for the devastation. So how can you prevent squash vine borer larvae from killing your squash plants? 

Squash Vine Borer Life Cycle

As the saying goes “know your enemy,” so it is true when thinking about squash vine borer prevention. 

Squash vine borers can be found throughout North America east of the Rockies, from Canada to South America. While they do most damage to squash and pumpkins, signs of infestation may occur in cucumbers and melons as well. 

This borer overwinters as either a pupa or larva under the soil. In mid-May to mid-June the larvae emerge as adult moths which are active for about a month of mating. 

Females lay up to 250 flat, oval and dull red/brown eggs individually on all parts of the squash plant. Eggs hatch after a week to 15 days and immediately tunnel into the stem or base of the plant to feed. As they feed they leave behind a moist green/orange sawdust-like material called frass.

The cream colored larvae feed for 4 weeks or so and then dig into the soil to pupate over the winter.

Squash Vine Borer Control

The best squash vine borer prevention is to plant early. How early or late can you plant squash? The adult moths are active in June, so plan on either transplanting in May or direct sow seeds in mid-June. 

There are a few ways to prevent adults from laying eggs in May or June. Wrap a collar of aluminum foil around the lower stems of the plant, dust or spray with spinosad or pyrethrum, or cover the plants with a floating row cover until they begin to flower. Only use row covers if you had no evidence of squash borers the previous year, otherwise the overwintering pupae are in the soil just waiting to nibble on the plants.

Lastly if you have had a previous year with incidence of squash borer, plan to plant resistant squash crops such as butternut, tromboncino, cushaw or the less susceptible crookneck instead of zucchini.

Companion planting is a gardening technique used to increase vegetable yields and reduce reliance on pesticides. The Three Sisters method is a time-honored tradition in which corn, beans and squash are planted in close proximity to each other. But corn and beans aren't the only companion plants for squash. 

The Three Sisters

Sometimes referred to as intercropping or interplanting, companion gardening brings together plants which can mutually benefit from each other. In the three sisters garden, squash is used to create a living mulch. This deters weeds and helps retain soil moisture levels for all three of the sisters.

Due to its prickly foliage, squash also acts as a deterrent to the deer and raccoons which like to raid the ears of corn. In a three sister's planting, squash also reaps benefits from the other two species. Beans fix nitrogen into the soil and the corn creates dappled sunlight to provide shade from the hot afternoon sun.

Additionally, planting crops of different heights and foliage has been shown to deter invertebrate pests better than a field of all the same plants. Corn and beans provide a visual distraction to common curcubit insects, such as squash bugs. This makes it harder for these pests to locate the squash plants. 

Pest Control Benefits of Squash Companion Plants

Many gardeners find invertebrate pests to be one of the primary difficulties with squash cultivation. Not only do these bugs damage squash plants, but some species of pests can also transmit disease. Fragrant flowers and herbs which either deter pests or attract predatory insects also make excellent companions for squash plants. Consider these choices for a squash companion planting:

• Calendula (Attracts pollinators and traps aphids)
• Chives (Deters deer and aphids)
• Dill (Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps)
• Lemon Balm (Attracts bees and deters gnats)
• Marigolds (Controls nematodes, traps aphids and attracts hoverflies, ladybugs and parasitic wasps)
• Marjoram (Attracts bees and hoverflies)
• Nasturtium (Deters squash bugs, trap aphids and attracts hoverflies)

Intercropping Squash With Other Plants

Although there are many varieties of squash, they fall into two main categories. Summer squash are a bushy-type plant which produces an abundance of soft-skinned fruit early in the season. Zucchini and yellow crookneck are examples of summer squash.

Winter squash not only has a much harder shell and longer storage life, but they also take up much more space in the garden. It's not uncommon for varieties of winter squash to have vines that reach 12 to 20 feet (4-6 m.) in length. Pumpkins are a type of winter squash, as are acorn, butternut and Hubbard. 

Both types of squash can be used in companion plantings, but winter varieties are ideal for interplanting with early spring crops. In this model of squash companion planting, fast-maturing veggies are grown in the space reserved for future winter squash vines. 

Successive crops of lettuce, peas, radishes and beets can be planted early and reach maturity before the squash vines overtake the area. The early spring crops shade out weed germination and keep the soil moist and loose, while the advancing squash vines provide shade and preserve soil moisture as the spring crops near maturity.

For many people, the process of growing their own vegetables is a fun way to learn more about history and better connect to the past. This is especially true with the addition of various open-pollinated and heirloom varieties of plants. Learning more about heritage vegetables, such as those used in the first Thanksgiving dinner, is an interesting way to gain a new perspective in the garden. 

Historic Garden Design and Heirloom Vegetables

Heirloom vegetables refer to specific varieties of open-pollinated edible plants, in which the seeds have been saved and passed from one generation to the next. Lineage of these vegetables can often be documented and traced throughout history. Without the availability of hybrid seeds, historic garden design depended greatly upon these heirlooms. 

Growing techniques, such as the three sisters garden, were also an important aspect of vegetable cultivation. Three sisters gardens emphasize the value of companion planting in growing. Corn, beans, and squash were most commonly grown together in this manner. As the corn plants grew taller, vining beans would begin to trellis up the stalks. Squash plants would then grow at the base of the planting, as a means to suppress weeds. 

There is little doubt that these techniques also influenced the first Thanksgiving dinner. Those wishing to incorporate the three sisters gardening method in their own garden can do so with ease by selecting corn, bean, and heirloom pumpkin varieties. Immense diversity among open-pollinated squash make them especially popular among avid vegetable gardeners. Let’s take a closer look at some highly sought-after winter squash. 

Popular Heirloom Pumpkin Varieties

“Blue Hubbard” Squash - Prized for its immense size, Blue Hubbard squash are valued by gardeners who enjoy storing and preserving their crops. When stored under proper conditions, this squash will remain fresh for up to 6 months. 

“Dickinson” Pumpkin - Though more traditional in size and shape, Dickinson pumpkins have long been known for their resistance to disease and insect pressure. The plants also perform well in regions with exceptionally hot and humid growing seasons. 

“Green Striped Cushaw” Squash - Green Striped Cushaw squash are often considered to be among few of the true native squash. With a thick crooked neck, these beautiful fruits are sure to add tasty historical interest to the home vegetable garden. 

“Long Island Cheese” Pumpkin - Highly popularized for their culinary use, Long Island Cheese pumpkins are known for their unique wheel-like shape. These pumpkins are especially prevalent during the Thanksgiving holiday. 

‘Seminole’ Squash - Considered to be yet another native squash, the ‘Seminole’ squash is believed to have originated in Florida. Highly disease resistant plants yield an abundance of small fruits that keep exceptionally well. 

Kabocha squash plants are a type of winter squash that was developed in Japan. Kabocha winter squash pumpkins are smaller than pumpkins but can be used in much the same way. Interested in kabocha squash growing? Read on to learn how to grow kabocha squash. 

About Kabocha Squash Pumpkins

In Japan, “kabocha” refers to winter squash and pumpkins. Elsewhere, “kabocha” has come to refer to Cucurbita maxima, a type of winter squash developed in Japan where it’s referred to as “kuri kabocha” or “chestnut squash” due to its nutty flavor. 

Originally cultivated in South America, kabocha winter squash was first introduced in Japan during the Meiji Era and then spread to North America in the 19th century. 

Kabocha Squash Growing

Although kabocha winter squashes are on the small side, kabocha squash growing requires plenty of space due to the vining habit of the kabocha squash plants. 

While kabocha squash plants are adaptable to a variety of soils, they prefer fertile, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. 

Start seeds indoors four weeks prior to the last frost in your area. Start seeds in peat pots that can be planted directly into the soil, since kabocha squash plants have sensitive root systems that dislike transplanting. Keep the seeds consistently moist and in at least six hours of sun per day. 

When soil temperatures have reached 70 degrees F. (21 C.) transplant the kabocha squash pumpkins into an area of full to partial sun in mounds that are 3 inches (8 cm.) tall. Since they are a vining type of plant, be sure to provide them some type of support to clamber up. 

 Kabocha Winter Squash Care

Mulch around each plant to help retain moisture and keep the roots cool. Keep the plants regularly watered to avoid drought stress. Water them at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves and introducing fungal disease. 

Keep an eye out for pests. Use row covers up until the plants begin to flower. 

When to Pick Kabocha Squash

Kabocha squash pumpkins are ready to harvest about 50 to 55 days after fruit set. Depending upon the variety you grow, the fruit may be green, gray, or pumpkin orange. Ripe kabocha winter squash should sound hollow when lightly thumped and the stem has begun to shrivel. 

Cut the fruit from the vines with a sharp knife and then cure the squash by exposing the fruit to sunlight for about a week or in a warm, well-ventilated space indoors. 

Store kabocha winter squash at 50 to 60 degrees F. (10-15 C.) with a relative humidity of 50 to 70% and good airflow. After storing for a few weeks, most varieties of kabocha squash pumpkins become sweeter. The exception is the variety ‘Sunshine,’ which is excellent freshly harvested.

Seed saving is back in vogue and with good reason. Saving seeds saves money and also allows the grower to replicate the previous year’s successes. What about saving seeds from say, grocery store squash? 

Planting seeds from store-bought squash sounds like a good, cost-effective way to obtain seeds, but can you really grow squash from the store? Read on to find out if you can plant store squash and if so, whether grocery store squash seeds will produce. 

Can You Plant Store Squash? 

The answer to “Can you plant store squash?” is all in the semantics. You can plant any type of seed your little heart desires, but the real question is, “Can you grow squash from the store?” Planting seeds from grocery bought squash is one thing, growing them is quite another. 

Can You Grow Squash from the Store? 

Seeds from grocery store squash can indeed be planted but will they germinate and produce? It depends on the type of squash you want to plant. 

The first major problem would be cross-pollinating. This is less of a problem with winter squashes, such as butternuts, than with summer squash and gourds. Seeds from butternut, Hubbard, Turks Turban, and the like are all members of C. maxima family and, although they may interbreed, the resulting squash would still be a good winter squash. 

Another problem with growing grocery store squash seeds is that they are likely to be hybrids. Hybrids are created out of two different varieties of the same species, in this case, squash. They are bred to get the best qualities from the two different varieties, then they’re married together to create a super squash with superior characteristics. 

If you try planting seeds from grocery store squash, the end result may be a crop that doesn’t in the least resemble the original squash. Combine that with some rampant cross polluting and who knows what you will get. 

Should you Grow Grocery Store Squash Seeds? 

Perhaps the better question is phrased above: should you grow squash from store-bought squash? It all really comes down to how adventurous you are and how much space you have for potential failure. 

If you have plenty of space for an experiment and don’t mind if the resulting plant produces fruit that is subpar, then go for it! Gardening is often as much about experimenting as anything else and each garden tests whether success or failure teaches us something. 

Before planting, allow the squash to ripen until it’s almost but not quite rotting. Then be sure to separate the flesh from the seeds and then allow them to dry before planting. Select the largest, most mature seeds to plant. 

The Gete Okosomin squash has two very interesting stories. One of them is true. The other isn't, and that's the one that's made it famous. But even the true story, while a little less click-baity, is fascinating and a testament to the long relationship between people and gardening – and how different types of squash have traveled and evolved alongside us. So let's look at the real history of Gete Okosomin squash – and we'll look a little bit at the fake history, too.

Gete Okosomin Heirloom Squash Origins - The Wrong Story

The name Gete Okosomin literally means "big old squash." It's a fitting title because the long orange fruits frequently tip the scales at 30 pounds (13.6 kg.). The plants became very well known a few years ago when a tale about their "discovery" started making the rounds on the internet. According to this story, a 2008 archeological dig in Wisconsin unearthed a small clay vessel containing seeds that were carbon dated to 850 years ago. The dormant seeds were planted and they grew into this "lost" squash. It's a fun idea, and one that sparks the imaginations of seed savers and gardeners. Just imagine"¦ a Jurassic Park of long extinct squashes! But, alas, it isn't true.

Real History of Gete Okosomin Squash

The Gete Okosomin squash isn't long extinct. Quite the opposite, in fact. Through careful cultivation and hand pollination, the Miami people of Indiana have been growing it and refining it for thousands of years. That means the variety is actually much older than the sensational headlines suggest! It's unclear exactly where the clay vessel story comes from, but the squash's wider popularity can seem to be traced to David Wrone, a professor at the University of Wisconsin, who was gifted the seeds by Miami Nation gardeners. Wrone began growing the squash and spreading the seeds around, giving some to the White Earth Seed Library. Today, the seeds are available to the public. The fruits are massive with tasty, nutty flesh and nutritious seeds, and well worth a try for the adventurous gardener.

If you grow squash in your backyard, you know what a happy mess of squash vines can do to your garden beds. Squash plants grow on strong, long vines that can crowd out your other veggie crops in short order. A squash arch can help you solve those problems and serve as a focal point in your garden too. Read on for information on squash arch ideas and tips on how to build a squash arch yourself.

What is a Squash Arch?

It’s not easy to grow squash vertically. Like snap peas, these veggies are heavy. Even a load of zucchini can take down a small trellis, and winter squash is even heavier.

That’s why it’s time to consider a DIY squash arch. What is a squash arch? Similar to a cattle panel trellis, it’s an arch made of PVC piping and fencing tough enough to bear the load of a productive squash plant.

Squash Arch Ideas

It may be possible to buy a squash arch in commerce, but DIY costs less and isn’t difficult to construct. You can build it to suit the dimensions of your own vegetable garden and tailor its strength to the type of squash (summer or winter) you plan to grow.

You construct the framework out of PVC piping and metal fencing. Figure out the dimensions once you decide where to put the arch. You’ll need to make it long enough to bridge your garden space and high enough to hold the vine and veggies well above the ground. Consider how wide you want it too, keeping in mind that it will shade the garden bed beneath.

How to Build a Squash Arch

Cut the pieces of PVC piping to fit the space. If necessary, attach several pieces of piping with special PVC glue or use PVS pipe attachments. Pouring hot water into the pipes will make them flexible and allow you to bend them into the arch you want.

After you get the PVC pipes in place, attach wire fencing between them. Use a gauge fencing that provides the strength you need for whatever you are growing. Attach the wire with zip ties or pieces of wire.

If you want to paint the arch, do so before you plant the squash. Once everything is in place, plant seedlings and direct the vines up the arch. In time, it will fill the entire area and the squash vine will be high above the ground, getting the sunshine it needs.

If you love squash but want to diversify, try growing Blue Hokkaido squash plants. What is a Blue Hokkaido squash? Only one of the most prolific, multi-use winter squash varieties available, plus, it’s beautiful. Keep reading for more Blue Hokkaido info, including the growing and care of Blue Kuri (Hokkaido) squash.

What is a Blue Hokkaido Squash?

Blue Hokkaido, also referred to as Blue Kuri squash, is an open pollinated Japanese Kabocha type of squash that has a much longer shelf life than other types of Kabocha. Typical of Kabocha squash, Blue Hokkaido squash (Curcurbita maxima) has a flattened globe shape with as its name suggests, a blue-grey color.

Additional Blue Hokkaido Info

The golden flesh of Blue Kuri is sweet and can be used in dessert recipes as well as in savory/sweet side dishes. It tends to be on the dry side; however, after being stored for a few months it will become moister.

Blue Hokkaido squash vines require plenty of room to grow and can be expected to produce three to eight squash per plant. The average weight is between 3to 5 pounds (1-2 kg.), although they may grow and weigh up to 10 pounds (4.5 kg.).

The gorgeous blue-grey squash, or pumpkin as some refer to it, also looks beautiful as a centerpiece carved or uncarved, alone, or in combination with other squash, pumpkins, and gourds.

Growing Blue Hokkaido Squash

Sow seed indoors from May to June or directly into the garden in fertile, well-drained soil after all chance of frost has passed. Sow seeds to a depth of one inch (2.5 cm). Seeds will germinate in five to ten days. Once the seedlings have two true sets of leaves, transplant them into a sunny area of the garden in rows that are 3 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) apart.

The squash should be ready to harvest around 90 days from planting. Allow the squash to cure for a few days in the sun before storing. This squash will store for several months, even up to a year.

If you love winter squash but find its size somewhat intimidating, try growing Sweet Dumpling acorn squash. What is a Sweet Dumpling squash? Read on to learn about growing Sweet Dumpling squash plants.

What is a Sweet Dumpling Squash?

Sweet Dumpling squash (Cucurbita pepo) is a winter squash variety that bears small, individually-sized acorn squash. The fruit is about 4 inches (10 cm.) in diameter, perfect for roasting whole or stuffing. The exterior is a deeply ribbed, ivory white or cream marked by dark green stripes, while the interior is an incredibly sweet, tender orange color.

This winter squash stores well post-harvest and is incredibly productive, generally producing 8-10 fruits per vine. It is also fairly disease resistant.

Growing Sweet Dumpling Squash Plants

Sweet Dumpling squash is an open-pollinated heirloom winter squash that can be grown in USDA zones 3-12. Sweet Dumpling is ready for harvest a mere three months from direct sowing.

Sow this variety of winter squash as you would summer squash. That is, sow the seeds an inch (2.5 cm.) or so deep after all danger of frost or start indoors a month prior to the last expected frost in your area. Squash doesn’t do well with transplanting, so if you do start them indoors, sow the seeds into peat pots. Be sure to harden the seedlings off for a week prior to transplanting.

A week after the last frost, transplant the seedlings into a rich soil 8-10 inches (20-25 cm.) apart in rows that are 10-12 inches (25-30 cm.) apart, or in hills of two seedlings spaced 8-10 inches (20-25 cm.) apart.

If you choose to direct sow, plant the seeds a week after the last frost about ½ inch deep (1.27 cm.) and 3-4 inches (7.6-10 cm.) apart. When the seedlings have their first set of true leaves, thin them to 8-10 inches (20-25 cm.) apart.

Keep the plants moist but avoid getting water on the leaves which may become afflicted with fungal diseases. Place a layer of mulch around the plants which will help to retard weeds and retain moisture.

As soon as the stems begin to dry and the skin of the fruit is too hard to pierce with a fingernail, harvest the squash. Cut the fruit from the vine with a sharp knife, leaving a bit of stem attached to the squash. Cure the squash in a dry area until the stem begins to shrivel and then store in an area that is 50-55 degrees F. (10-13 C.).

Buttercup squash plants (Cucurbita maxima) are heirlooms native to the Western Hemisphere. They are a type of kabocha winter squash, also known as Japanese pumpkin, and can be stored for a long time due to their hard rinds. As the name would suggest, the flesh cooks up with a sweet buttery flavor. Buttercup winter squash needs a long growing season and plenty of sun and heat to produce the small fruits that thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3-11.

Buttercup Squash Facts

Heirloom plants are all the rage today. They allow gardeners to explore food varieties that our grandparents grew and that have time-tested reliability. Buttercup squash facts indicate that the heirloom variety often develops turban-shaped fruit, an eye-appealing oddity. The fruit is an excellent source of carotenoids, an important antioxidant, and Vitamin C.

The plant needs 105 days from seed to harvest. It is a sprawling, vine-like plant that requires plenty of room to grow. The fruits are small compared to many winter squash plants. Weighing in at 3 to 5 pounds (1.35-2.27 kg.), the skin is deep green with no ribs. Sometimes, they are globe shaped but, occasionally, the fruit develops a button-like gray growth at the stem end.

This type of fruit is known as turban squash, a development that doesn't change the taste of the fruit. The flesh is a sunny orange without strings and has a deep, rich flavor. It is tasty broiled, grilled, fried, roasted, or boiled.

How to Grow Buttercup Squash

Squash plants need well-draining, deeply fertile soil in full sun. Incorporate compost, leaf litter or other organic amendments prior to planting.

Start seeds indoors 8 weeks before planting out, or direct sow once all danger of frost has passed. Buttercup winter squash grown indoors will need to be hardened off before transplant.

Transplant when they have two pairs of true leaves. Space plants or seed 6 feet (1.8 m.) apart. If necessary, thin plants to one per recommended spacing. Keep young squash moderately moist and use an organic mulch around the root zone to prevent weeds and conserve moisture.

Care of Buttercup Squash Plants

Provide 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) of water per week. Deliver water from under the leaves to prevent diseases like powdery mildew from forming.

Watch for pests and combat them by hand picking larger types and using an organic pest control for smaller insects, like aphids. Many insects dine on squash such as vine borers, squash bugs and cucumber beetles.

Harvest fruits when the rind is shiny and deeply green. Store winter squash in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location where no freezing temperatures are expected. Buttercup squashes become sweeter with a few weeks of storage. You can store the fruit for up to four months.

Can you grow squash plants inside? Yes, you can, and it’s relatively easy as long as you provide the proper growing conditions, primarily a large pot and plenty of sunlight. Sound like fun? Let’s learn about growing squash indoors.

Growing Squash Indoors

Although vining squash needs a large growing space, smaller bush-type squash plants are suitable for growing indoors. They may be smaller, but indoor squash plants can produce a hefty harvest beginning about sixty days after planting.

Some popular available in compact bush varieties include:

• Buttercup
• Butternut
• Acorn
• Yellow Crookneck
• Patty Pan
• Zucchini

How to Grow Squash Inside

Bush squash doesn’t require a huge growing space like standard vining squash, but it’s still a relatively large plant. A container measuring approximately 24 inches (61 cm.) across and 36 inches (91 cm.) deep will provide ample space for the roots. Fill the container with good quality commercial potting mix. Be sure the container has a drainage hole, as squash is likely to rot in soggy soil. Cover the drainage hole with a piece of mesh or a coffee filter to prevent potting mix from escaping. Water the potting mix until it’s evenly moist but not saturated.

Plant four or five squash seeds 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) deep near the center of the container. Allow a few inches (8 cm.) between each seed. Place the container where it gets at least five to seven hours of bright sunlight per day. Water lightly when the potting mix feels slightly dry to the touch. As the plant grows, it’s healthiest to water at the base of the plant. Wetting the leaves may create mildew problems and can also attract mealybugs, fungus gnats, and other pests.

Thin to a single healthy seedling when the plants are a few inches (8 cm.) tall and have at least two healthy leaves. This is also a good time to begin fertilizing the squash plants. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer with an NPK ratio such as 5-10-10. Mix the fertilizer at half the strength suggested on the label. Compost tea is an alternative if you prefer to avoid synthetic fertilizers. Continue to feed the plant every couple of weeks.

Squash is self-fertile (male and female blooms are found on the same plant). However, unless you have bees or other pollinators indoors, you may need to help out with pollination. One easy way to accomplish this is to pick an open male flower (one with a longer stem and no swelling at the base of the bloom). Rub the bloom against the stigma in the center of the female flower (one with a tiny immature fruit just behind the bloom).

It’s really amazing how much of our produce we discard. Other cultures have more of a tendency to eat the entirety of their produce, meaning the leaves, stems, sometimes even roots, blossoms, and seeds of a crop. Consider squash, for example. Can you eat squash shoots? Yes, indeed. In fact, all pumpkin, zucchini, and squash tendrils are edible. Puts a whole new spin on how much our garden can feed us doesn’t it?

Eating Pumpkin, Zucchini, and Squash Tendrils

Perhaps you didn’t know that squash tendrils were edible, but did know that squash blossoms are edible. It doesn’t take much of a leap to figure that the tendrils might be tasty as well. They look much akin to pea shoots (delicious) albeit a bit firmer. All varieties of squash can be eaten, including zucchini and pumpkins.

Edible squash tendrils may have tiny bristles on them, which might be unpalatable to some, but rest assured that when they are cooked, the little spines soften up. If you are still averse to the texture, use a brush to rub them off prior to cooking.

How to Harvest Squash Tendrils

There’s no secret to harvesting squash tendrils. As anyone who has ever grown squash can attest, the vegetable is a prodigious producer. So much so that some people “prune” the vines to curtail not only the size of the vine but also the quantity of fruit. This is a perfect opportunity to try eating squash tendrils.

Also, while you are at it, harvest some squash leaves because, yep, they are also edible. In fact, many cultures grow pumpkins for just that reason and it is a staple of their diet. It isn’t just winter squash types that are edible either. Summer squash tendrils and leaves can be harvested and eaten as well. Simply snip the leaves or tendrils from the vine and then use immediately or refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to three days.

As to how to cook the tendrils and/or leaves? There are numerous options. A quick sauté in olive oil and garlic is probably easiest, finished off with a squeeze of fresh lemon. The greens and tendrils can be cooked and used just as you would other greens, such as spinach and kale, and the tendrils are a special treat in stir fries.

When it comes to types of winter squash, gardeners have a huge selection from which to choose. Winter squash varieties include large, medium and small squash in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes. Growing winter squash is easy and the sprawling vines grow like crazy with a couple of very basic requirements – fertile, well-drained soil and plenty of sunlight.

Wondering how to choose a winter squash for your garden? Read on for more details about different kinds of winter squash.

Winter Squash Varieties

Acorn – Acorn squash is a small squash with a thick, green and orange rind. The orange-yellow flesh has a sweet, nutty flavor.

Buttercup – Buttercup squash is similar in size to acorn squash, but the shape is round and squat. Buttercup’s rind is dark green with pale gray-green stripes. The bright orange flesh is sweet and creamy.

Butternut – Butternut squash is pear-shaped with a smooth, butter-yellow rind. The bright orange flesh has a nutty, sweet flavor.

Delicata – Delicata squash has a flavor much like sweet potatoes, and this small squash is often known as the “sweet potato squash.” The skin is creamy yellow with green stripes, and the flesh is yellow-orange.

Blue Hokkaido – Blue Hokkaido squash, which is actually a type of pumpkin, has a deliciously sweet, nutty flavor. The skin is grayish-blue and the flesh is bright orange.

Hubbard – Hubbard squash, with a chunky teardrop shape, is one of the largest types of winter squash. The bumpy rind may be gray, green or bluish-gray.

Banana – Banana squash is a huge squash with an elongated shape. The rind may be pink, orange or blue and the flesh is bright orange. Many people consider banana squash to be one of the most versatile and flavorful winter squash varieties.

Turban – Turban squash is a large squash with a rounded bump on the top, much like a turban. While turban squash is often used for its ornamental value, it is edible with a sweet, mild flavor.

Sweet Dumpling – Sweet dumpling squash is one of the smallest kinds of winter squash. The rind is off-white, with yellow or green speckles. The golden flesh is sweet and nutty.

Spaghetti – Spaghetti squash is a large, pale yellow squash with an oblong shape. Once cooked, the stringy golden flesh resembles spaghetti, and often serves as a spaghetti substitute.

Do you sometimes buy colorful vegetables for autumn harvest displays? These are always available in the store around that time. Sometimes, you don’t know if you’re buying a squash or a pumpkin cultivar, but they look great in your display. Most likely, you were buying winter squash, and you may have included a turban squash in your purchase.

About Turban Squash Plants

Exactly what is a turban squash? It’s a variety of winter squash that, with time, becomes a hollow gourd. Attractive, with an acorn shape, the thick skin is often colorfully mottled or striped. The bottom is most often orange, with colorful stripes and spots, and the top half has a light background for the unique splotches.

A beautiful specimen, this of the Curcurbita family and related to pumpkins, squash, and gourds. It’s heavy, with a normal size weighing in at about five pounds (2.5 kg.). It’s most easily peeled after a few minutes in boiling water, revealing yellow flesh. Use the unpeeled squash for stuffing, baking, or roasting.

That said, they are rarely peeled, though, as it is most often used as decoration. Also called Turks Turban (botanically Cucurbita maxima), some simply call them turban gourd plants or Mexican hats. You might consider growing turban squash for your own interesting decorations.

How to Grow Turk’s Turban Squash Plants

Learning how to grow Turk’s Turban squash is similar to growing pumpkins and other running squash. The leaves are huge and the vines are quite long. Train the vines to go in the most convenient direction, moving them a little each day. Eventually, if you like, vines can be buried to have another root system sending energy to the fruit. As fruits develop, make sure they are not going to rot on damp soil. Use a paver or a block to keep them off the ground.

According to Turk’s Turban squash info, this plant needs up to 120 days to maturity, 10 to 20 days for seeds to sprout. Get seeds started early indoors, especially if you have a short growing season.

When seeds have a few leaves and all danger of frost is over, plant them into hills a few feet (1-1.5 m.) apart in a sunny area. Remember, the vines will spread a few feet (1-1.5 m.). Amend soil prior to planting with well-composted materials and worm castings, if you have them. These plants are heavy feeders and your final fruit is best developed with regular feedings.

Keep soil moist, not wet, and keep an eye out for pests. Squash bugs, cucumber beetles, and squash vine borers are particularly attracted to this plant. Treat with insecticidal soap before turning to commercial insecticides. Deer and rabbits are sometimes a problem, which can possibly be prevented with a couple of layers of chicken wire over growing fruits.

Harvest when the shell hardens. Use them in a basket or porch display with pumpkins and other gourds and winter squash types.

For many growers, squash is truly among the hardest working and most productive vegetable plants in the home garden. Whether growing winter squash or a summer variety, the diversity among this family of plants is remarkable. Specifically, summer squashes are prized for their upright and bushy growth habit, as well as usefulness in the kitchen. Types such as straightneck are perfect for those looking to enjoy early season harvests from the garden without the stress of starting seeds indoors.

What is Straightneck Squash?

Straightneck squash plants are a type of summer squash. Straightneck squash varieties bear small, yellow fruits with subtle flavor. As their name would imply, these squash plants have a straight “neck” which attaches to the plant.

Summer squashes are ideal additions in areas with short growing seasons, as plants mature quite quickly. Straightneck squash is also a favorite plant for succession sowing and in the fall vegetable garden.

As with any summer squash, straightnecks should always be harvested when young and tender.

How to Grow Straightneck Squash

Growing straightneck squash is very similar to growing other varieties of squash. Tender to frost, it is imperative that all chance of frost has passed before planting straightneck squash into the garden.

While it is possible to start squash seeds indoors, many prefer to sow the seeds directly into the garden. To direct sow, simply press seeds gently into the soil of a well-amended and weed free garden bed. Quick to germinate, seedlings often emerge within five to seven days.

Straightneck Squash Care

Throughout the season, heavy feeding straightneck squash will require frequent and consistent irrigation. Since overhead watering may lead to issues such as powdery mildew, avoid wetting plant leaves. This will help to reduce the occurrence of this disease.

Like other members of the squash family, straightneck squash may battle several insects and pests throughout the growing season. Some of the most commonly encountered include cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and squash vine borers. Infestations of any of these insects can lead to partial or complete loss of squash plants in the form of bacterial infections and wilt.

Though sometimes difficult to control, vigilant gardeners are able to prevent excessive damage with close attention and monitoring of plant health.

Growing crookneck squash is common in the home garden. Ease of growing and versatility of preparation make crookneck squash varieties a favorite. If you’re asking “what is crookneck squash?”, then this article can help. Click here for more info on growing crookneck squash.

What is Crookneck Squash?

Yellow crookneck squash is a type of summer squash, closely related to the yellow straightneck squash. Varieties may be smooth or ridged. Usually shaped somewhat like a bottle, it grows in summer, sometimes prolifically, and is often a top-producer in the garden.

Numerous recipes are available online for its use. Crookneck squash is often breaded and fried as a delicious side, used in a range of casseroles, and is a great healthy ingredient to include in those green smoothies. Season and grill slices of crookneck, then top with cheese and bacon bits. Or use your imagination for cooking and serving. This squash may be eaten raw, steamed, or stewed. It may be canned or frozen, too, if the harvest produces more than you can use at one time.

How to Grow Crookneck Squash

Crookneck squash plants are warm season growers. Seeds germinate at 85 degrees F. (29 C.). Because of the popularity of the crop, some have devised ways to get germination earlier. Plant seeds in an already prepared full sun spot and cover the surrounding soil with black plastic or dark mulch or use row covers to hold in the heat. Covering should be light so the seeds can pop through upon germination.

You may also start crookneck squash plants from transplants that you purchase or start indoors early on. Plant seeds or transplants in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil amended with compost worked in 3 inches (7.5 cm.) down. A pH of 6.0 to 6.8 is most productive. Many long-time growers plant squash in hills, raised several inches (5 to 10 cm.) above the row. When planting from seed, plant four seeds, then thin twice to get the strongest grower.

Keep the soil moist and water in a consistent manner.

Harvesting Crookneck Squash

Pick them when they’re young and developed, with a glossy skin and still tender. Harvest the squash by cutting or breaking, leaving a portion or all the stem on the squash. Learning when to pick a crookneck squash may begin as an experiment if this is your first time growing them. Letting them grow too long results in a hard, unusable squash.

Crooknecks that are too mature have a hard rind and large seeds, compromising the quality of the fruit. When you’ve picked one from the bush, another will soon develop to take its place. It is most important to harvest the first flush of crookneck squash so they will continue to develop. This crop will keep producing all summer as long as bushes are healthy, and fruits are harvested in a timely manner. They are usually ready in 43 to 45 days.

Prepare for your harvest, as this crop doesn’t hold for long when picked, often no more than three to four days in the refrigerator.

Now that you’ve learned how to grow crookneck squash, use them as your family prefers and be sure to put some up for winter.

Summer squash is native to North America, where it was commonly cultivated by Native Americans. Squash was planted as a companion to corn and beans in a trio known as the “three sisters.” Each plant in the trio benefited each other: the corn provided support for climbing beans, while the beans fixed nitrogen in the soil, and the large bushy leaves of the squash acted as a living mulch, cooling the soil and helping it to retain moisture. The prickly squash leaves also helped to deter unwanted garden pests, such as raccoon, deer and rabbit. Bush types of summer squash are excellent for this trio of companion plants, rather than vining and sprawling types. Keep reading to learn more about summer squash plants.

Summer Squash Types

Most summer squash today are varieties of Cucurbita pepo. Summer squash plants differ from winter squash because most summer squash varieties bear their fruit on bushy plants rather than vining or sprawling plants like winter squashes. Summer squashes are also harvested when their rinds are still soft and edible, and fruit is still immature. Winter squashes, on the other hand, are harvested when the fruit is mature and their rinds are hard and thick. Because of the thick rinds of winter squash vs. the soft rinds of summer squash, winter squash has a longer storage life than summer squash. This is actually why they are known as summer or winter squash – summer squashes are enjoyed only for a short season, while winter squash can be enjoyed long after harvest. There are also different summer squash types. These are usually categorized by the shape of the summer squash. Constricted neck or crookneck squashes usually have yellow skin and a curved, bent or angled neck. Likewise, straightneck squashes have straight necks. Cylindrical or club-shaped squashes are typically green, but can be yellow or white. Some, but not all, zucchini and cocozelle varieties of summer squash fall into the cylindrical or club-shaped categories. Scallop or patty-pan squashes are round and flat with scalloped edges. They are typically white, yellow or green.

Different Summer Squashes You Can Grow

If you are new to the world of growing summer squash, all the different kinds of summer squash may seem overwhelming. Below I've listed some of the more popular summer squash varieties. Zucchini, Cocozelle and Italian Marrow

• Black Beauty
• Vegetable Marrow White Bush
• Aristocrat
• Elite
• Spineless Beauty
• Senator
• Raven
• Golden
• Greyzini

Crookneck Squash

• Dixie
• Gentry
• Prelude III
• Sundance
• Horn of Plenty
• Early Yellow Summer

Straightneck Squash

• Early Prolific
• Goldbar
• Enterprise
• Fortune
• Lioness
• Cougar
• Monet

Scallop Squash

• White Bush Scallop
• Peter Pan
• Scallopini
• Sunburst
• Yugoslavian Finger Fruit
• Sunbeam
• Daize

Cylindrical Squash

• Sebring
• Lebanese White Bush

Plants have a long history of earning regional common names for their physical attributes or unique features. The word “marrow” immediately brings to mind the creamy white, spongy substance inside bones. In gardens in the UK and other countries around the world, “marrow” refers to certain varieties of summer squash, which are called marrow vegetables because their 10 to 12 inch (25-31 cm.), oval shaped fruit contains a creamy white, spongy interior flesh surrounded by a hard but thin skin. Read on for tips on how to grow marrow plants in your garden.

Marrow Squash Plant Info

The vegetable Curcurbita pepo is the variety of squash most commonly called marrow. However, Curcurbita maxima and Curcurbita maschata are similar squash varieties which may be sold under the same common name. They produce medium to large plants that will continually produce new fruits throughout the growing season. The heavy production and compact growth habit of marrow vegetable plants make them ideal size for pocket gardens in smaller landscapes. Plants mature in 80 to 100 days. Their fruit can be harvested prematurely and used like zucchini. Marrow vegetables have a rather bland taste on their own, but their marrow-like flesh holds spices, herbs, and seasonings well. They also are good accents for other vegetables or meats with strong flavors. They can be roasted, steamed, stuffed, sautéed, or prepared in many other ways. Marrow vegetables are not a vitamin rich superfood, but they are packed with potassium.

How to Grow Marrow Vegetables

Growing marrow squash plants requires a site protected from cool winds and rich, moist soil. Young marrow plants can be susceptible to frost damage in spring. Plants can also suffer from wind damage if they are not placed in a sheltered location. Before planting marrow plants, the soil should be prepared with lots of rich, organic material to help provide nutrients and retain moisture. Best flower and fruit set is accomplished when planted in full sun and fertilized with a vegetable fertilizer every two weeks. Plants should be watered regularly to maintain moist, but not soggy, soil.

Native to Mexico, the Tatume squash is a little known heirloom vegetable that deserves a lot more attention. It's a staple in Mexican cooking, and can also sometimes be found in Texas, but in the wide world beyond it is mostly overlooked. (With so many varieties of squash out there, it's easy to lose track)

Tatume Squash History

Tatume squash is a variety of Cucurbita pepo, the species that makes up most of the squash we know and love. These squash plants are mostly native to Central and South America, where they were domesticated as long as 10,000 years ago. The Tatume squash hasn't traveled much farther than its birthplace. Part of Tatume's problem is that it goes by some many different names. It can also frequently be found being sold as Tatuma, Calabacita, Round Zucchini, and Mexican Zucchini. Another problem is that it's an open pollinated heirloom and not carried by a lot of seed sellers or nurseries. If you can manage to track it down, though, it's well worth the trouble.

Tatume Squash Information

While many more commercial squashes grow in a bushing habit, Tatume squash is a very vigorous vine that can reach 12 feet (3.6 m.) in length and will take over a garden plot if left to its own devices. It produces a large number of round, green to yellow fruits. These fruits are best when picked at just 3 inches (8 cm.) long. They can be cooked in a way similar to zucchini, though their flavor is said to be richer and their flesh firmer. The vines are very tolerant of heat, standing up to even the hottest Texan and Mexican summers. They are also renowned for their resistance to squash borers, the pests that are known to devastate squash crops. Not all gardeners report success in this area, but if your garden is especially prone to squash borers, it can't hurt to try your hand at this interesting and really tasty heirloom variety.

One of the more charming squashes is the patty pan. Gelber Englischer custard squash is actually even cuter, with a similar form but topped with a beret-like chapeaux. It has a wonderfully deep yellow to orange color and sweet flavor. According to Gelber Englischer squash information, this variety is well suited for cooler to temperate regions, so northern gardeners get ready for a treat!

What is a Custard Squash?

A custard squash is essentially the same as a patty pan. It has many more names such as scallop squash, custard marrow, granny squash, white squash and scallopini. There are varieties in yellow, white and green predominantly, but many heirloom varieties come in rosy orange. Most are picked when small and have tender flesh with sweet flavor and minimal seeds. The Gelber Englischer squash is a custard squash with the classic scallop shape. It has a decidedly different top than a regular custard squash. The flat top gives it the appearance of a muffin that was overfilled and spilled out the top. Skin may be smooth, slightly warty or even striated.

Gelber Englischer Squash Information

The Gelber Englischer variety originated in Gatersleben, Germany. The fruits are ready to consume in 50 to 60 days. These fast growing, prolific producers ramble broadly and need plenty of space. Vines don't get tall but they certainly spread out. The fruits are small, you can cup them in your palm, and weigh less than a pound (.45 kg.). The little squash have the best flavor when harvested at no more than 4 inches (10 cm.) across. Although color can vary a bit depending upon your soil, most fruit are lemon yellow. The squash may be eaten raw, roasted, grilled or sautéed. It is excellent when added to baked goods like quick breads. Most gardeners state they are best done simply or shredded fresh to add to salads, tacos and sandwiches where the buttery flavor shines through cleanly.

Growing Gelber Englischer Custard Squash

Gelber Englischer squash is suited to USDA zones 3 to 11. Squash prefers a soil pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. Custard squash should be placed in a sunny location. In areas with short growing seasons, it is advised to start them indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the date of the last frost. Warmer regions can plant seed directly into a prepared seed bed as soon as soil is 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 C.). Loosen soil deeply and incorporate some well-rotted manure or compost to the soil. Water under the leaves to prevent powdery mildew. Common squash pests can be handpicked or use neem oil. If you wish to save seed, allow the squash to mature fully on the vine until you can hear them shake loose inside the fruit. Then remove the seeds, separating out any flesh, dry them and store in a cool, dark location until the following spring.

Every once in a while you come across a produce anomaly, an item so strange and unusual that it makes you question your place in this world. Victor winter squash (Cucurbita maxima) is one such anomaly. The squash fruit is warty and bumpy all over like it has a bad case of poison oak. The plant from which it comes has a terribly proper introduction name, but over time its moniker has been reduced much like children on a playground rename their bully targets. However, this plant and its strange fruit deserve our respect because it comes from a long lineage of heirloom seeds carefully stored and fairly recently found again.

History of Victor Winter Squash

Squash plant heirlooms seem to be coming out of the woodwork as family members discover grandma or grandpa's precious stash and decide to share them with the rest of us. One of the latest reintroductions is Victor, brought back into the public eye as Red Warty Thing.

Yep, you read correctly. This squash is known as Red Warty Thing or Victor.

It was originally introduced as Victor by James J.H. Gregory in 1897, but modern breeders have decided on a more colorful name for its reintroduction from the U.S. Seed Bank. The plant is one of the more fascinating in a family of wide diversity of form and color. Squashand gourdshave always been filled with surprises but few top Victor's unique appearance and form.

Red Warty Thing is similar to a pumpkinand tastes much like any other pumpkin. It can be used in soups, stews, roasted, baked with or in any other manner you would use a pumpkin, but it is actually a Hubbard type squash. The flesh is reddish orange and deliciously sweet. The difference is in its skin. Victor's fruit starts out smooth and yellow-orange. In fact, the hue is very pale and subdued and the skin is unremarkable. As the fruit matures, it begins to deepen in color and develop a bumpy skin.

By the time the fruit is fully mature, it can weigh 15 to 20 pounds with deeply orange glowing skin and extremely warty looking. Far from needing a dermatologist, the lumpy skin adds to its ornamental appeal and can be a freaky addition to your fall décor.

Growing Victor Squash Plants

Victor is mature in approximately 90 to 100 days. Like most squash, it prefers a sunny location in fertile, well-draining soil. Plants will send out huge runners, so Victor needs plenty of room or a support upon which to grow.

Red Warty Thing seems to be a favorite prey of cucumber beetles. These beetles pick on plenty of veggies in the garden, but the squash family are some of its favorites. Repellent plants like marigolds, tansy and nasturtium may help, but row covers are the way to go if you have been plagued by these tiny beetles before. Not only will they chew on the foliage and reduce plant health but they also transmit bacterial wilt, a disease that can sweet through the garden.

With a little watchful protection, these squash are quite easy to grow and may even surprise you. Some gardeners mentioned they got fruits that exceeded 48 pounds, but most will be medium sized and useful in the kitchen or as attractive (or are they ugly?) holiday decorations.

If "zucchino rampicante" makes you think of rampant squash, you are in the right ballpark. This heirloom zucchini might come directly out of a child's dream, growing longer than a yard and curling like a green snake. But in addition to being the most distinctive veggie in your garden, zucchino rampicante will be very popular on your table. It is sweet, tender and yummy on the grill.

What is Zucchino Rampicante?

When you are growing heirloom squash, you expect vegetables that look a little different from modern varieties. You won't be disappointed with zucchino rampicante squash (Cucurbita moscata). It will turn heads. These plants are prolific and unusual. The vines grow fast and furious, producing huge leaves with silver veins and bright orange flowers. Don't try growing zucchino rampicante squash in a small garden. The vines may take over your backyard and move into your neighbor's. The squash itself is incredible. These zucchini grow light green, long and slender. Each squash can get up to 4 feet long, twisting into circles or interesting squiggle-shapes as they slither around the vines, up trellises and through fences. One gardener has compared them to crooknecks on steroids. If you prefer straight zucchini, plant your squash so that the vines grow up strong support systems. The zucchinis will hang straight and grow straight, but you'll lose some of that "Alice in Wonderland" magic.

Tromboncino Squash Information

Zucchino rampicante is also known as tromboncino squash. Regardless of which common name you prefer, this heirloom squash is a truly unique variety. In addition to its remarkable appearance, zucchino rampicante may be the only heirloom squash that is both a summer squash and a winter squash. That is, if you plant it, you can choose which you prefer. While the squash are still young, their skin is bright green and striated. Harvest it at this stage for a summer squash. Its flesh is sweet with a slight nutty flavor. On the other hand, you can leave it in the garden to develop a hard skin, which will turn beige and becomes too tough to eat. Now it is a winter squash and you can store it for long periods of time, like butternut squash.

Butterkin squash is one of those rare and exciting events: a new vegetable. A cross between a butternut squash and a pumpkin, the butterkin squash is very new to the commercial market, both for growing and eating. It’s quickly gaining in popularity, though, due to its smooth and sweet flesh. Keep reading to learn more butterkin squash information, including care of butterkin squash plants and how to grow a butterkin squash.

Butterkin Squash Information

What is butterkin squash? As its name suggests, it’s a hybrid between a butternut squash and a pumpkin, and it looks the part. The fruits have the smooth, light orange skin of a butternut and the round, ridged shape of a pumpkin. Inside, the flesh is the best of both worlds-- deep orange, smooth, and extremely sweet. The fruits tend to come in at 2 to 4 pounds (1-2 kg.) in weight. They can be substituted in any recipe that calls for pumpkin or winter squash and are especially good cut in half or into wedges and roasted.

How to Grow Butterkin Squash Plants

Butterkin squash growing, and subsequent care, are basically just the same as with other winter squashes. Seeds should be sown outdoors after all chance of spring frost has passed. The seeds can also be started three to four weeks earlier indoors and transplanted outside when the weather warms up. Squash roots are very delicate, so make sure not to disturb them during the transplanting process. The vines usually grow to about 10 feet (3 m.) in length and will produce one to two fruits each. They’re somewhat susceptible to insects like vine borers and squash beetles. Butterkin squash should be ready to harvest in late summer to early fall and can be stored for up to six months if they’re kept in a well-ventilated place.

Calabaza squash (Cucurbita moschata) is a tasty, easy-to-grow variety of winter squash that’s native to and extremely popular in Latin America. While it’s less common in the United States, it’s not hard to grow and can be very rewarding, particularly when used in Latin American cooking. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow Calabaza squash plants and Calabaza squash uses.

What is Calabaza Squash?

Calabaza squash plants, also known as Cuban squash and Zapollo, are useful because they’re especially resistant to pests and disease that can devastate other squash varieties. They’re not totally immune, of course, and can fall prey to downy mildew, powdery mildew, and the slew of bugs that attack squash like aphids, cucumber beetle, and squash vine borer. Compared to their cousins, however, Calabaza squash plants are quite tough. They’re also long, vigorous and vining, which means they can overpower weeds in their vicinity. Basically, they’re good at taking care of themselves.

How to Grow Calabaza Squash

Growing Calabaza squash is very similar to growing other varieties of squash and are used much the same way too. In fact, it was one of the first cultivated squash plants grown in the "Three Sisters” garden. Calabaza squash plants have a relatively long growing season and are extremely frost tender. In cold climates, seeds should be sown in the spring as soon as all chance of frost has passed. In reliably frost-free areas, they can be planted anytime from late summer to early spring. The plants are very heat tolerant. The vines are long, reaching as much as 50 feet (15 m.), and must be given room to spread. Each vine produces two to five fruits that tend to weigh between 5 and 12 pounds (2-5 kg.) but can weigh as much as 50 pounds (23 kg.). These fruits take 45 days to ripen – although a mature squash develops a waxy coating over its initial shine, simply counting the days from fruit set is the best way to tell that it’s ready for harvest. If kept between 50 and 55 degrees F. (10-13 C.), the fruits can be stored for up to three months.

A favorite squash of Sicilians, cucuzza squash, meaning ‘super long squash,’ is gaining some popularity in North America. Never heard of cucuzza squash plants? Keep reading to find out what a cucuzza squash is and other information about growing cucuzza Italian squash.

What is Cucuzza Squash?

Cucuzza is a summer squash in the botanical family of Lagenaria, which boasts a plethora of other varieties. This edible squash is related to the calabash, also known as water gourd or bird’s nest gourd. A vigorous squash, fruit is born from vines that can grow 2 feet (61 cm.) a day. The fruits are straight, green gourds, occasionally with a minor curve to them. The skin is dark green and medium hard. The fruit itself can grow 10 inches (25 cm.) per day and will be 18 inches to 2 feet (46-61 cm.) long. The squash is usually peeled, and the seeds removed from the larger fruit. The squash can be cooked just like any other summer squash – grilled, stewed, fried, stuffed, or roasted. Intrigued? I bet you’re wondering how to grow Cucuzza squash now.

How to Grow Cucuzza Squash

Cucuzza squash plants are easy to grow. The easiest method is to grow them on trellises, which will give support to the fruit, contain the rampant vines, and make for ease in harvesting. Grow this tender warm season veggie in well-draining soil with full sunlight exposure. Amend the soil with 2 inches (5 cm.) of organic compost or rotted manure. Plant two to three seeds at 2 to 3 foot (61-91 cm.) intervals along a row after all danger of frost has passed in your area. Push the seeds one inch (2.5 cm.) down into the soil. You can also plant in hills. If you use hills, plant five to six seeds with each hill spaced 4 feet (1 m.) apart. When the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) tall, thin out to two to three of the healthiest plants. Give the squash one inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week depending upon weather conditions. Like all squash, Cucuzza are prone to fungal diseases, so water in the morning at the base of the plants. If you did not enrich the soil with manure of compost, you will need to feed the plants. Once the plants have blossomed, feed ¼ pound (113 g.) 10-10-10 for every 10 feet (3 m.) of row, three to four weeks post blossom emergence. Keep the area around the Cucuzza weed free. Cover the area around the plants with a light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, to aid in water retention, weed retardation, and to keep the roots cool.

Harvesting Cucuzza Squash

Timing is everything when harvesting Cucuzza squash. It’s just like zucchini. One day the fruit is a couple of inches (5 cm.) long and two days later it’s 2 feet (61 cm.) long (and that’s if you even saw the fruit). With the large shading leaves and green fruit, Cucuzza, again like zucchini, tends to keep the fruit of its labor hidden. So, look carefully and look every day. The bigger they are, the harder they are to manage, so the ideal size is 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm.) long. Also, the younger, smaller fruit have softer seeds, which can be left in, cooked, and eaten.

I love spaghetti squash mostly because it doubles as a pasta substitute with the added benefits of a few calories and plenty of folic acid, potassium, vitamin A, and beta-carotene. I’ve had varying results when growing this winter squash, which I chalk up to weather conditions during the growing season. Sometimes, I have fruit that doesn’t seem to be quite ready to pick, yet Mother Nature has other plans. So, the question is, will spaghetti squash ripen off the vine? Read on to learn more.

Will Spaghetti Squash Ripen Off the Vine?

Well, the short answer is “yes” to the ripening of spaghetti squash off the vine. The longer answer involves a “maybe.” I’m not getting all wishy-washy on you. The fact is that the answer depends on spaghetti squash ripeness, or how mature the squash is. If the squash is green and soft, it is more likely to rot than ripen off the vine. If, however, there are hints of yellow and the squash appears to be full-sized and sounds solid when thumped, I would go ahead and try it. So, how to ripen green spaghetti squash then?

How to Ripen Green Spaghetti Squash

Generally, the time to pick spaghetti squash is in late September into October in some regions. The signs of spaghetti squash ripeness are skin that is yellow and hard. A test for hardness is to try and puncture the skin with your fingernail. If frost is imminent, however, and you have spaghetti squash that would be in danger, don’t despair; it’s time to take action! Harvest the unripe squash by cutting the fruit from the vine. Be sure to leave a couple of inches (5 cm.) of vine on the squash when you cut it. Wash and completely dry the squash. Then, just set them in a warm, sunny area to ripen with the green side up to the sunlight. Turn them every few days to allow the sun to ripen all the sides of the squash. Allow the fruit to ripen to a yellow hue and then eat it or store it in a cool, dry place. If summer is waning and you are getting nervous about the ripening of your spaghetti squash, you can try to speed things up in a couple of ways. You can trim any leaves that may be blocking the sun from the squash, or you can try root pruning. To root prune, go 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) from the main stem and cut straight down 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.). Repeat the cut on the other side of the plant to form an “L” shape.

Many folks grow winter squash, which is not only nutrient rich, but can be stored for longer periods of time than summer varieties, allowing for a taste of summer’s bounty during fall and winter months. Of the winter squash varieties, butternut is one of the most popular. Like other winter squash, butternut squash may be prone to problems – amongst these may be fruit split in butternut squash. What causes butternut shell splitting and is there a remedy?

Help, My Butternut Squash is Splitting!

Cracking squash fruit is not an uncommon occurrence; in fact, it happens to other vine fruits too, including melons, pumpkins, cucumbers and even tomatoes. As the squash reach maturity, the outer skins harden. This hard outer layer allows for a long storage period of several months. However, once the hardening process begins, anything that elicits additional growth can result in cracking squash fruit. What can facilitate late growth in butternut squash? Heavy rain or over enthusiastic irrigation is the most common reason for butternut squash splitting. This extra water signals to the squash that it should grow more. The problem is, the outer shell has already hardened, so when the fruit grows, there isn’t anywhere for it to go. It’s like blowing a balloon up. There is a certain amount of air that the balloon will contain before it eventually explodes. More or less, this is akin to fruit split in butternut squash. This butternut squash problem is further exacerbated when there is an abundance of nitrogen in the soil. Again, this signals to the squash that it is time to grow. Nitrogen application at the wrong stage of maturation can cause cracking squash fruit. Butternut squash shell splitting also results from late harvesting. If the squash of other fruit prone to cracking is left on the vine too long, you may end up with splitting.

Treating Splitting Butternut Squash Problems

So what can you do to prevent splitting butternuts?

• First of all, it is a good idea to plant butternuts, or any squash, in a mound or a raised bed which will facilitate drainage.
• Secondly, feed the squash at the correct time. Side dress midseason as the plants begin to vine. Apply 2.5 ounces (70 g.) of nitrogen for each 250 feet (75 m.) of row. Avoid fertilizing any later than this point, which would stimulate growth, hence cracking.
• Also, while it is okay to leave the fruit on the vines until cold weather comes, you are taking a risk of splitting fruit if there is a long hot spell once the fruit has matured.

So, if you have fruit that is cracked, is it still edible? Cracked squash usually heals over. You will see that the fruit has formed a sort of scab over the cracked area. This scab is formed when a substance called ‘suberin’ oozes out and then dries. Suberin is a protective mechanism that repels moisture and attempts to thwart the entry of bacteria. If a bacterium has entered the fruit, it will soon be patently obvious and irreparable, as the fruit will rot. If not, a butternut scarred with suberin is perfectly okay to eat.

(Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden) Varieties of squash have been grown since ancient times, with earliest types being much smaller and far more bitter than what we know today. It's for this reason that they were often cultivated more for their ornamental value than anything else. Of these old-time plants is Turk's Turban. While still grown mostly for its ornamental interest, some people also add the squash to soups. I prefer looking at it myself.

History of Turk's Turban

Squash, along with beans and corn, have a long history, with remnants of these plants dating back thousands of years - most notably in the three sisters garden. Winter squash, in spite of its name, is actually a warm-weather crop. So why then is it called winter squash? Because they all develop hard, thick rinds that allow you to store them for longer periods, typically throughout the winter. Summer types have thin skins, which can be damaged easily, and must be used right away, or upon picking in summer (unless it's frozen or canned, of course). Between these two squash types, there are four groups cultivated. Turk's Turban is a winter squash type and belongs to the Cucurbita maxima group. This heirloom squash variety can get fairly big, up to a foot across. Once mature, the colorful, fruits become bright orange and are topped with an orange-red colored protuberance, or acorn, on the blossom end which is striped with cream and olive-green. While this button-like top is called an acorn, it is not the same thing as Acorn squash, another more common squash variety. Confused yet? It also resembles a 'turban' wrapped around its top. I guess you have figured by now the reason for its name. Other names for this plant include French Turban and Turban. It was developed in France prior to 1818 but introduced to the United States sometime in the early nineteenth century, presumably around 1820, though some sources say 1869. Because of its fancy appearance, this heirloom makes a striking addition to fall garden displays.

Growing Heirloom Winter Squash

Turban squash, like most any squash, is easy to grow. Being heat lovers, they are best started indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost, or you can direct sow once both the soil and outdoor temps have significantly warmed. Sow seed 1-2 inches deep, and transplant out when it's suitable in your area. This variety normally takes about 80-100 days to harvest. If you take care not to damage the 'turban' when harvesting, the squash can be kept in storage for long periods, sometimes up to 6 months.

If you reside in the American South, you may already be familiar with growing cushaw squash. An heirloom crookneck squash from the family Cucurbitaceae, cushaw squash plants have a number of benefits over other winter squash varieties. So how to grow cushaw squash plants and what other interesting information can we dig up?

Cushaw Squash Plant Info

Cushaw (Cucurbita argyrosperma) hails from the Caribbean and, thus, tolerates humid conditions. This squash is a green striped, crook-necked variety cultivated by Native Americans as a staple food. Fruit averages 10-20 pounds (4.5 to 9 kg.), grows to 12-18 inches (30.5 to 45.5 cm) in length and is around 10 inches (30.5 cm.) across. The flesh is light yellow and the flavor is mildly sweet. Cushaw squash is also often referred to as cushaw pumpkin or in Appalachia, as the Tennessee sweet potato. Maturing in late summer to fall, this hard-shelled winter squash can be used in sweet or savory dishes and is often used, especially in Appalachia, as a replacement for pumpkin in pies. Some Native cultures also ate the toasted seeds or ground them for use in sauces and stuffed and/or fried the blossoms. This squash has long been popular in Creole and Cajun cuisine and the making of cushaw butter is still a family tradition in areas of Tennessee. One of the most important New World food crops, cushaw squash is believed to have been domesticated in Mesoamerica between 7,000 and 3,000 B.C. Intrigued? Read on to find out when to plant cushaw and other growing information for cushaw squash.

When to Plant Cushaw Squash

This winter squash is so termed due to its lengthy storage time of up to four months during the winter. During this time, it was an invaluable source of vitamin C and other nutrients for Native Peoples and New World settlers alike. Growing cushaw squash is also resistant to the squash vine borer, a voracious pest that kills most other squash. This may be one reason for the longevity of cushaw squash varieties; they simply survived outbreaks of borers that killed other types of squash. This type of squash also has a great tolerance for heat with little irrigation. Plant cushaw squash after the last frost or start two weeks prior to the last frost in your area.

How to Grow Cushaw Squash

The ideal soil pH level for growing cushaw squash is between 6.0 and 7.5. Use a soil test to determine if your soil needs amending. Ground limestone and wood ash can raise the pH level while gypsum and sulfur will lower pH levels. Also, incorporate two inches (5 cm.) or so of organic matter into the soil to supply nitrogen to the growing squash. Create mounds of soil, 4-6 feet (1 to 2 m.) apart, 6 inches (15 cm.) high and a foot (0.5 m.) across. Be sure to allow plenty of space for the rampant vines. If the soil is dry, moisten it. Now you're ready to either transplant your seedlings or direct sow. Wait until the temp is at least 60 F. (15 C.) to direct sow. Plant four to six seeds per hill, then thin out to the strongest seedlings. Like other squash varieties, cushaw partners beautifully with the Three Sisters, a traditional Native method of cultivation involving squash, corn, and beans. Other companion plantings include:

• Celery
• Dill
• Nasturtium
• Onion
• Cucumber
• Mint
• Marigold
• Oregano
• Borage

Golden Hubbard squash is an attractive winter squash with a tear-drop shape and a deep orange-red or golden-red shell. The innards of this squash are golden-yellow, with a mild flavor and sweetness that exceeds most varieties of Hubbard squash. Ready to learn more? Me too.

History of Golden Hubbard Squash

Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima) originated in the West Indies or South America, and was introduced commercially in the United States in the late 1840s, where it became popular on the scene a few years later. The history of Golden Hubbard squash extends to the middle part of the nineteenth century, and we can thank J.J. Harrison of Storrs & Harrison, a small nursery in Lake County, Ohio, for developing the sport plant. The D.M. Ferry Company, later to become the familiar Ferry-Morse company, offered the squash to the public in 1898. Golden Hubbard garnered good reviews and a 1906 seed catalog pronounced it, "extra fine quality" - and indeed it is.

Growing Golden Hubbard Squash

Growing this heirloom squash isn't difficult. Like other types of winter squash, Golden Hubbard is a prolific producer that requires only a patch of well-drained soil and plenty of sunshine. But don't rush to plant it, as squash is highly susceptible to frost, in spite of its being deemed "winter" squash. You'll need to wait until the soil is at least 65 F (18 C).

Winter squash likes rich soil, so dig in a few inches of compost or manure and a small amount of balanced garden fertilizer before you plant. Direct sow the seeds about 2 inches in mounds with 4 to 6 seeds in each mound. Allow about 4 feet between these hills. Water daily for the first week - providing just enough water to keep the soil slightly moist. Thin the seedlings to two plants per mound once the seedlings have two leaves, not counting the initial seedling leaves.

Once the plants are established, deep, infrequent watering that soaks the top 6 to 8 inches of soil is best. As a general rule, provide 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Use a drip system or soaker hose to keep the leaves dry, if possible. Damp leaves increase the risk of rot and other fungal problems associated with wet soil.

Squash doesn't require a lot of fertilizer, but the plants benefit from a light feeding with an all-purpose fertilizer when the seedlings are a few inches tall. Sprinkle dry fertilizer along the side of the plants, then water deeply. Fertilize a final time soon after blossoms appear. Your squash should be ready to harvest in late fall once the vines begin to peel back.

While Golden Hubbard squash is often used for canning or decoration, it's also an excellent keeper. In most cases, heirloom varieties of Hubbard squash will keep up to 110 days after harvesting.

We often have the perfect storm of summer weather conditions to contribute to a severe infection of powdery mildew on squash, specifically our butternut and spaghetti squash. The squash leaves with mildew die back, exposing the fruit to sunscald at its formative stage. It's not uncommon for squash leaves to have powdery mildew, but since it affects yield, how can you go about treating powdery mildew in squash? Read on to learn more.

Squash with Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew spreads rapidly and can travel a long distance. In addition to squash plants, it may afflict any number of veggies, including:

• Artichokes
• Cucumbers
• Eggplant
• Lettuce
• Melons
• Parsnips
• Peas
• Radishes
• Tomatoes
• Turnips

However, there is a different species of powdery mildew that attacks each different veggie. In the case of cucurbits, there are three different fungal species responsible for causing powdery mildew: Podosphaera xanthii, Golovinomyces cucurbitacearum, and Golovinomyces orontii. Contrary to what you might think, powdery mildew on squash is not prevalent during wet growing seasons. In fact, moist conditions are not necessary at all to foster this fungus, and it quite likes it hot. Hence, the aforementioned “perfect storm” is an unusually dry, hot summer. So how do you identify powdery mildew in squash? This disease is fairly obvious in appearance. It appears on older leaves first, as reddish-brown spots. At the onset, the disease can only be identified via microscope, but quickly it will become apparent as it rapidly spreads to create white, mildew-covered leaves, petioles, and stems. This powdery mycelium makes the leaves appear to have been dipped in talc. The leaves lose their normal dark green hue, turn pale yellow, then brown, and finally shrivel, leaving the squash exposed to sunburn. Conidia (spores) are rapidly produced in the powdery mycelium and any wind or air movement carries them to adjacent plants and leaves as well as off to plants situated even farther away. In fact, it only takes three to seven days from initial infection to appearance of symptoms. Powdery mildew thrives in dense plantings, shaded to low light exposure and high relative humidity. Infection can occur anywhere between 50-90 F. (10-32 C.), but it favors warmer temps up to 80 F. (26 C.), but not over 100 F. (37 C.). Also, powdery mildew in cucurbits is spread because the disease overwinters and is spread to successive generations of squash.

Powdery Mildew Control

Along with the perfect storm of weather conditions, we no doubt aid and abet the disease. As mentioned above, the disease overwinters. Practicing crop rotation will go a long way in preventing the spread of powdery mildew. Do not plant cucurbits in the same area for at least two years. We did not always practice crop rotation; I blame my other half. Additional management techniques for treating powdery mildew in squash are to destroy any diseased plant debris, space plantings since a densely planted plot are more likely to be infected, and plant resistant varieties when possible. Also, keep the garden free of weeds. Powdery mildew control may also need to be combined with a timely application of a fungicide. When using fungicides, it's too late for them to be of any use once symptoms become rampant. Fungicides work by preventing infection of healthy foliage, so find the infection early. There are a number of organic options available as well as traditional fungal sprays.

• Sulfur and “Stylet” oil are effective products for powdery mildew control.
• Fixed copper fungicides have also shown results in managing powdery mildew.
• Neem oil is also an effective combatant for managing powdery mildew.

Whatever you choose, remember the key is an early application, before the disease is readily apparent all over the foliage.

The beauty of the vegetable garden is a balm to the soul and a helpmate to the pocketbook. There is no better bang for the buck than the squash crop - one of my all-time favorites. Squash plants produce at a rapid-fire rate once they have established and provide so many fruits that the single- or small-family gardener may be giving them away all season long. Patty pans, or scallop squash, look a bit like architectural renditions of flying saucers. The Jaune et Verte squash is a French heirloom scallop with a creamy flesh and lovely variegated shell.

About Jaune et Verte Squash

It's always fun to learn more about plants when growing them, and Cucurbita pepo 'Jaune et Verte' has a special place in scallop squash heirloom history. Jaune et Verte refers to the coloring of the squash, with its yellow to ivory rind vicariously striped with green accents. Also known as Pattison Panache, this scallop produces prolifically and quickly, having early edibility or tasty maturity. Just don't leave them on the vine too long, as they can get a bit woody on the outside and fibrous on the inside. The earliest depictions of patty pans were in a botanical book in 1591. Native Americans counted the squash an important part of their diet, and Europeans have cultivated the plant for a couple of centuries. I simply love the curious, otherworldly nature of the plant's fruit - Of course, they taste wonderful too!

Growing Variegated Scallop Squash Jaune et Verte

It is essential to preserve any old species, and keeping some of this scallop squash heirloom history going for future gardeners and the like is no different. Growing variegated scallop squash enhances diversity in food crops and saves a species from extinction. Seed savers such as myself know the value of finding a good variety and keeping the seed for year after year excellence. And, of course, no history would be complete without the inclusion of growing info. Patty pan squash plants practically grow themselves. Direct sow them after all danger of frost has passed. Provide organic rich soil and plenty of water in a full sun location and you should have more of the fruits than you can handle. Chewing pests are a problem, as are some mildews and fungal diseases. These are easy enough to handle with a little slug bait, organic pesticides and by watering at the base of the plant. Squash will form after 60 to 70 days. Harvest the little guys when white for stir fries or just fresh eating. Wait until the variegation appears and pick the 4- to 6-inch fruit for stuffing, sautéing, frying and other recipes. Look for this interesting little squash in reputable heirloom supply catalogs and try your hand at growing it. You won't be sorry! In fact, you'll likely find yourself wanting more of these delightful fruits with each passing year - much like myself!

Delicata winter squash is a bit different than other winter squash varieties. Contrary to their name, winter squash are grown at the peak of the summer season and are harvested in the fall. They tend to have a hard rind and can, therefore, be stored for future use in a cool, dry area for months. What makes Delicata winter squash so special?

Delicata Squash Information

All winter squashes are members of the Cucurbit family, which also claims cucumbers and zucchini amongst its members. Most varieties fall into three species groups:

• Cucurbita pepo
• Cucurbita moschata
• Cucurbita maxima

Delicata winter squash is a member of C. pepo and is a relatively small variety of winter squash. Additional Delicata squash information tells us that this heirloom variety was introduced in 1891. As with most winter squash, the Delicata's fruit is grown on a vine most commonly, although there is also a bush variety. Its fruit is cream-colored with green stripes, oblong, and around 3 inches (7.5 cm.) across and 6 inches (15 cm.) long. Interior flesh is pale yellow and tastes much like a sweet potato and is, in fact, sometimes referred to as sweet potato squash or peanut squash. Unlike other winter squash varieties, the skin of Delicata is tender and edible. This tender skin reduces the storage time somewhat compared to hard varieties such as Butternut or Acorn. If this sounds intriguing, then you probably want to know how to grow your own Delicata squash.

How to Grow Delicata Squash

Delicata squash plants have a short growing season and are mature within 80-100 days. They can be either direct sown or sown indoors for later transplant. The plants will attain a height of 10-12 inches (25.5 to 30.5 cm.) with a 24- to 28-inch (61 to 71 cm.) spread. When growing Delicata squash, choose a sight that will receive full sun. The Cornell Bush Delicata requires only 4 square feet (0.5 sq. m.) of garden space, but if growing vining Delicata squash, allow at least 20 square feet (2 sq. m.) of space. Dig a 3-inch (7.5 cm.) layer of compost into the soil. With this amended soil, create a flat-topped, one square foot (0.1 sq. m.) round mound. Once daytime temps are routinely above 70 F. (21 C) for five to seven successive days, it is time to plant your Delicata winter squash. Evenly space five Delicata seeds and press them into the soil at a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm.). Lightly cover with soil and pat down. Water in the seeds until the mound is soaked. Keep the mound moist until the seedlings emerge. Once the first set of leaves reaches 2 inches (5 cm.) long, remove and discard all but three plants. Continue watering as needed for the next month, whenever the top inch (2.5 cm.) of soil dries out. After that, water deeply only when the top 2 inches (5 cm.) of soil is dry. To suppress weed growth and maintain moisture levels, spread 2 inches (5 cm.) of mulch in a 2-foot (0.5 m.) circle around the Delicata plants. When the plants reach 6-8 inches (15 to 20.5 cm.) tall, spread a layer of aged manure or rich compost 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep by 4 inches (10 cm.) wide around the plants and then again when the first buds are plumping up, just before they bloom. Keep the area free from weeds and inspect the plant for powdery mildew, and remove affected parts. Pick insects from the fruit, or for more major infestations, apply pyrethrin according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Delicata Squash Harvesting

With its delicious flavor and edible peel, Delicata is ideal for stuffing or slicing and roasting. With such a range of uses, you'll be salivating for Delicata squash harvesting to arrive. To test Delicata for readiness, press a fingernail against the skin. When the skin is hard, remove the fruit from the plant with pruning shears, keeping about 2 inches (5 cm.) of the vine attached. Although its storage life is a little shorter than hard-skinned varieties, Delicata can be stored for about three months at room temp in a cool, dry area (50-55 F./10-12 C). Or, the fruit can be frozen. Simply cook the squash until soft, scoop out the flesh, and pack and label in freezer bags. This will extend the length of time you'll have to enjoy this delicious heirloom squash variety.

If you've been stuck in a squash rut, routinely cultivating zucchini or crooknecks, try growing patty pan squash. What is patty pan squash and how do you grow it?

Growing Patty Pan Squash Plants

With a delicate, mild flavor, much akin to zucchini, the patty pan squash, also referred to as the scallop squash, is a small variety of summer squash. Lesser known than its relatives, yellow squash or zucchini, patty pans have a distinct shape which some people describe as similar to a flying saucer. The fun shape of the fruit growing on patty pan squash plants may also be an enticement to getting the kids to eat their veggies. They can begin being eaten when only an inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) across, making them even more entertaining to kids' taste buds. In fact, scallop squash are not as moist as crooknecks or zucchini and should be harvested when young and tender. These little flying saucer shaped fruits may be white, green, or buttery yellow in color and are round and flat with a scalloped edge, hence the name.

How to Care For Scallop Squash

Scallop squash or patty pans should be grown in full sun, in rich, well-draining soil. Once the danger of frost has passed in your area, these little squash can be directly sown into the garden. They are usually planted in groups with two or three seeds per hill and spaced 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.) apart. Thin them to one or two plants per hill once the seedlings attain a height of 2 or 3 inches (5-8 cm.) tall. Give them plenty of room to grow like any squash; their vines spread 4 to 6 feet (1-2 m.). The fruit should mature between 49 and 54 days. Keep the squash watered well. There are no secret scallop squash growing tips; the plants are relatively easy to grow.

Scallop Squash Varieties

There are both open-pollinated, those pollinated via insects or wind, and hybrid varieties of scallop squash available. Hybrid varieties are bred to insure that the seeds have known specific traits while open-pollinated varieties are fertilized via an uncontrolled source, which may result in a plant that doesn't breed true. That said, there are some open pollinators that result in true plants from generation to generation and we call them heirloom varieties. The choice to grow heirloom or hybrid is yours. Here are some popular hybrid varieties:

• Sunburst
• Sunny Delight
• Peter Pan
• Scallopini

Winners amongst heirlooms include:

• White Patty Pan
• Early White Bush
• Yellow Bush
• Benning's Green Tint
• Wood's Earliest Prolific

When to Pick Patty Pan Squash

Plants are prolific and will produce several dozen squash each. Within days of flowering, it is very likely that you will have fruit that is sizeable enough to harvest. Pick once the color changes from green to golden yellow but while the fruit is still small, 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.). Patty pans can grow to 7 inches (18 cm.) across but get rather tough the larger they get. You can prepare patty pans just as you would any squash. They can be sliced, diced, braised, grilled, fried, roasted, or stuffed. Steam small ones whole for four to six minutes. Scallop squash even make edible, useful serving bowls. Just scoop out the center while either raw or cooked and fill with whatever your heart desires.

One of the most versatile squash out there is the pink banana squash. It can be grown as a summer squash, harvested at that time and eaten raw. Or, you can wait patiently for fall harvest and use it just like a butternut -- sautéed, steamed or roasted, and then use it alone or in casseroles, soups and even in pies!

What is Banana Squash?

With this dizzying array of uses, I'm sure the question, “What is banana squash?” is foremost in your mind as well as how to grow banana squash. Banana squash plants are a member of the Cucurbita family (C. maxima). There are hybrid varieties referred to as “rainbow,” heirloom varieties such as Sibley or Pike's Peak as well as blue and pink banana types of squash. Banana squash plants can be traced back to ancient sites in Peru and were traded across the Americas. Pink banana squash is also known as Mexican Banana and Plymouth Rock and was introduced to the market in 1893. Banana squash has an elongated shape, curving slightly the older it gets, and smooth outer skin, that is, yes, pinkish-orange with flesh colored stripes, or bluish-gray or even solid yellow in hue depending upon the cultivar. The interior of the squash is firm, meaty and orange in color. It can reach an imposing size of up to 40 pounds (18 kg.), but the average weight is about 10 pounds (4.5 kg.), 2-3 feet (60-91 cm.) long and 8 inches (20 cm.) around. This New World crop gradually fell out of favor, and although today it is enjoying resurgence in popularity, seed for this varietal are still most likely to be found among heirloom seed savers.

How to Grow Banana Squash

If you decide to cultivate some banana squash of your own, which is highly recommended, keep in mind that this squash needs some serious space to grow. The vines resemble those of the Hubbard and can reach 12-15 feet (3.6-4.5 m.) in length. The fruit takes at least 120 days for maturation. Sow the seed in planting soil at a depth of ¾ to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm.) deep and water them in well. Germination will occur between 9-14 days. Once the banana squash plants have two or three sets of leaves, they can be transplanted 9-12 inches (23-30 cm.) apart. Fertilize them with a high nitrogen fertilizer after the first flowers set and again three or four weeks after. Don't fertilize thereafter, however, or you will be nourishing the foliage and not the fruit. When the squash is about the size of a small banana, place a ½-inch (1.27 cm.) plank beneath it to keep it dry and prevent spoiling. Harvest your banana squash when it is between 12-16 inches (30-41 cm.) long by cutting it from the stem. The banana squash can be stored in a dry, dark, cool (50-60 F. or 10-15 C.) area with plenty of air circulation surrounding it. You can then use it just as butternut or kabocha squash. Roast it and add to soup, stew or casserole. Shave it thinly and add to fresh salad greens or atop pizza. Herbs that pair nicely with banana squash are:

• Bay
• Cumin
• Curry
• Cinnamon
• Ginger
• Nutmeg
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Thyme

Store this big beauty properly, and it can last for up to six months.

Have you ever grown a blue-ribbon Hubbard squash or another variety, but the next year the crop was less than stellar? Perhaps you have wondered if by collecting seeds from the prized squash, you might get another crop just as amazing. What is the best method then for squash seed collection and saving those premium squash seeds?

Squash Seed Harvesting

More and more often of late, plants and seeds available at the local home and garden center are comprised of hybrid varieties that have been engineered to retain selected characteristics. This hybridization, unfortunately, breeds out the plants' innate ability to adapt to inhospitable or challenging conditions. Luckily, there is a resurgence to save some of our heirloom fruit and vegetable varietals. Saving squash seeds for future propagation can be a bit of a challenge since some squash will cross pollinate, resulting in something less than appetizing. There are four families of squash, and the families don't cross pollinate, but members within the family will. Hence, it is necessary to recognize what family the squash belongs to and then only plant members of one of the remaining three nearby. Otherwise, you will have to hand pollinate squash to maintain a “true” squash for squash seed collection. The first of the four major families of squash is Cucurbit maxima which include:

• Buttercup
• Banana
• Golden Delicious
• Atlantic Giant
• Hubbard
• Turban

Cucurbita mixta counts amongst its members:

• Crooknecks
• Cushaws
• Tennessee Sweet Potato squash

Butternut and Butterbush fall into the Cucurbita moshata family. Lastly, are all members of Cucurbita pepo and include:

• Acorn
• Delicata
• Pumpkins
• Scallops
• Spaghetti squash
• Zucchini

Again, back to hybrid varieties, often the seed is sterile or doesn't reproduce true to the parent plant, so don't try squash seed harvesting from these plants. Don't attempt to save any seeds from plants that are afflicted with disease, as this will likely pass to the next year's generation. Select the healthiest, most bountiful, flavorful fruit to harvest seeds from. Harvest seeds for saving from mature fruit towards the end of the growing season.

Storing Squash Seeds

When seeds are ripe, they generally change color from white to cream or light brown, darkening to a dark brown. Since squash is a fleshy fruit, the seeds need to be separated from the pulp. Scoop the seed mass out of the fruit and place it in a bucket with a bit of water. Allow this mix to ferment for two to four days, which will kill off any viruses and separate the good seeds from the bad. Good seeds will sink to the bottom of the mix, while bad seeds and pulp float. After the fermentation period has completed, simply pour off the bad seeds and pulp. Spread the good seeds on a screen or paper towel to dry. Allow them to dry completely or they will mildew. Once the seeds are absolutely dry, store them in a glass jar or envelope. Clearly label the container with the variety of squash and the date. Place the container in the freezer for two days to kill off any residual pests and then store in a cool, dry area; the refrigerator is ideal. Be aware that seed viability decreases as time passes, so use the seed within three years.