Nasturtiums are both beautiful and edible, so it can be disheartening to have these wonderful flowers not perform as expected.

It's the goal of Gardening Know How to help avoid nasturtium issues, or at the very least amend them, by providing the best information possible so your flower garden will flourish - and that includes answering the nasturtium questions that plague us all. Here are the top questions about growing nasturtium flowers.

1) How do you care for nasturtiums?

Busy gardeners appreciate nasturtiums because they are incredibly easy to grow. One reason is these edible flowers thrive in poor soil, so no need for soil testing or amending. Simply choose a location which receives full to partial sun and has good drainage.

Nasturtiums are also well-suited to container growing. Keep nasturtiums weeded and water when rain is scarce and the top of the soil has dried.

For the healthiest plants, avoid overwatering. Once the flowers are spent, deadhead the plants to encourage more blossoms. In areas that receive frost, nasturtiums are grown as annuals.

2) Why are my nasturtium leaves turning yellow?

Gardeners are right to be concerned when they see yellowing leaves on their plants. This indicates something is wrong. When this happens, I like to perform a thorough inspection of the plant.

I start by reviewing the growing requirements of the plant. Nasturtiums prefer full sun and not-so-fertile soil with good drainage. Improper amounts of light, too much or too little water, excess fertilizer, and poor drainage can cause nasturtium leaves to yellow.

Next, I look for additional signs of disease or the presence of pests. Nasturtium leaves also turn yellow if they are accidentally hit with overspray from an herbicide.

3) When do nasturtiums bloom?

In cooler climates where nasturtium is grown as an annual, expect flowers from early summer until the plants are killed by fall frost.

Shorter varieties of nasturtium bloom sooner than taller types, as the latter must achieve more vertical growth before producing flowers.

In frost-free climates, nasturtium grows as a perennial and can bloom all year. In either climate, nasturtiums may experience a period of dormancy during extremely hot, humid summer weather.

A common mistake is applying fertilizer in hopes of sparking the plants' interest in blooming. This generally doesn't work with nasturtiums. A rich growing medium encourages foliage growth which can overwhelm flower production.

4) What to do for leggy nasturtium plants?

Plants of all types tend to get leggy when their sunlight requirements are not adequately met. Nasturtiums can survive in partial shade, but their preference is full sun. It's advisable to plant nasturtium where it can receive a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day.

Legginess is also more noticeable in trailing or climbing varieties of nasturtium. Try pruning long vines back 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) to encourage budding. And even though nasturtium grows best in poor soil, a total lack of nutrients can result in leggy growth. This is most noticeable in container-grown nasturtiums. A light dose of balanced fertilizer may help.

5)  Are nasturtiums good plants for pollinators?

Definitely! The brightly colored red, yellow and orange hues of nasturtium flowers fall within the visible spectrum of many pollinators, including bees and hummingbirds. Additionally, nasturtium nectar is particularly sweet. It's reported to contain more sucrose than most other species of flowers. Nasturtium nectar provides a great energy source for hummingbirds, who burn many calories flapping their wings 50 times or more per second. The nectar is contained within the long spur of the nasturtium flower, making it less accessible to pollinators lacking long proboscises or tongues. That's great news for hummingbirds!

6) When to plant nasturtium seeds?

In areas that receive frost, nasturtiums are typically grown as annuals. Since nasturtiums are sensitive to cold, seeds can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks prior to the last frost date.

Nasturtiums don't transplant as well as other types of flowers, so using peat pots is highly recommended to reduce transplant shock. Nasturtiums can also be directly seeded in the ground once frost-free weather has arrived. The large seeds can be nicked or soaked overnight to reduce germination time. Nasturtium seedlings can be transplanted or thinned to create an 8- to 10-inch (20 to 25 cm) spacing between plants.

7) How do you harvest edible nasturtium flowers?

It's easy to understand the interest in harvesting nasturtium. The fresh leaves and flowers have a peppery taste which can vary in intensity depending upon the time of day they're harvested. The beautiful flowers can also be used to decorate cakes and desserts.

To harvest these edible delights, simply pick the flower buds or blossoms and the young, tender leaves as needed. It's best to leave a long stem when harvesting nasturtiums for cake decorating but, otherwise, the blossoms can be removed close to the flower. If you prefer milder flavor, pick nasturtium early in the day.

8) Will deadheading encourage more nasturtium blooms?

Yes, deadheading does encourage nasturtium to bloom for a longer period. Deadheading is a gardening term which refers to the removal of spent or dead flowers. This technique not only improves the appearance of the plant, but also encourages the plant to redirect energy from seed production to the growth of new flowers.

As an added bonus, removing the flowers before they produce seeds helps control the unwanted spread of plants, which freely self-seed. To deadhead nasturtium, pinch or cut off the stem directly below the spent flower. Be sure to leave the pair of leaves directly under the flower.

9) Why haven't my nasturtiums produced any seeds?

Nasturtium seeds can be difficult to spot. There's a good chance they were overlooked. To find the seeds, move the leaves aside and look closely. More often than not, the seeds will still be green and tend to blend in with the foliage. With nasturtium seeds, size is a better indicator of maturity than color. The bigger the seed, the better the germination rate.

So go ahead and pick those green seeds or rescue the brown ones from the ground. Bring the seeds inside and allow them to dry completely before storing them for the winter.

10) How to control the spread of nasturtiums?

As mentioned above, deadheading spent flowers before they produce seeds is an excellent way to prevent the spread of invasive plants. If nasturtiums have already advanced to unwanted areas of the garden, hand weeding may help control the overpopulation of these flowers. Boiling water or white vinegar are safe alternatives to chemical herbicides and can be used to reestablish control. (Care should be taken not to hit desirable plants.) Unfortunately, in frost-free climates, nasturtium can grow and distribute seeds year round.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

It can be disheartening to have your hard work in the garden go caput due to unforeseen challenges. That's why it is the goal of Gardening Know How to help avoid these issues, or at the very least amend them, by providing the best information possible so your garden will flourish - and that includes answering the gardening questions that plaque us all. Here are the top questions about gardening in containers.

1) How do you water containers?

I find the easiest way to water my containers is to soak the soil until the water runs through the drainage holes in the bottom. For my indoor potted plants, it's a lot less messy to bring them to the sink, or even bathtub depending on the size, for a good soaking. How often you'll need to do this, of course, depends on the plant. But generally keeping the soil moist but not overly wet is just right. If a plant has been neglected, let the water run through the soil for a few minutes.

2) Can you grow vegetables in containers?

Absolutely. Vegetables can do very well in containers if you give them the right conditions: lots of sunlight, adequate water, and fertile soil that drains well. Just be sure that you match the size of the container to the size of the plant, and for those that climb, the pot needs to be near a structure for support. Some veggies that do particularly well in containers are greens, lettuce, peppers, and tomatoes.

3) What type of soil for containers and can I make my own?

The type of soil that you'll need for a container depends on the plants. Generally, you can get away with a standard potting mix. To make your own general potting soil, you can use a lower quality product and mix in compost and perlite to lighten it up, or completely create soil from scratch: six parts sphagnum moss or coir fiber (a byproduct of coconut processing), six parts compost, and four parts perlite.

4) What containers are safe to use (organic)?

Just about any container designed for plants is safe to use. The exception may be wooden containers that have been treated. Those may leach chemicals into the soil. But, otherwise, plastic, terracotta, Styrofoam, stone, and other materials that pots are made of will not hurt plants or contaminate veggies or herbs. If you are considering the environmental impact, you can find biodegradable pots made from organic materials like coconut fiber.

5)  What grows well in a shaded container?

Most plants do just fine in containers if you make sure they get enough water, nutrients and space. If you want to grow container plants in a shady spot, look for those that will tolerate less sunlight. Some great options are coleus for gorgeous foliage, begonias and impatiens for pretty flowers, and bleeding heart or ferns for larger plants.

6) Do you need to refresh container soil each year?

You don't strictly need to change the soil in containers every year, but it doesn't hurt to add some additional nutrients before each growing season. For instance, mixing in compost in early spring is an easy way to refresh pots. Or, grow some legumes or cover crops"”clover, peas"”in containers over the winter to re-invigorate the soil. Completely change out the soil every few years.

7) When should you take containers back outside after overwintering?

This depends on the plant, as some can tolerate colder temperatures than other. However, a good general rule is to keep your overwintered pots indoors until there is no more chance of frost outside.

8) How to grow upside down tomatoes in containers?

Upside down tomatoes can be a great space saving gardening technique. You can use essentially any container that you can hang from a height. Use a lightweight plastic pot or bucket with holes in the bottom. With soil in the hanging container, put a small tomato plant in the hole so that the roots will grow up into it and the leaves are hanging down. The hole needs to be big enough for the plant stem, but not so big that soil will drop. This growing technique is best used with smaller varieties, like cherry or grape tomatoes.

9) Can herbs be planted together in the same pot?

You can definitely mix herbs in containers, and it's a great way to save space. Just be sure to put together those herbs that require similar conditions. For example, you can combine Mediterranean herbs like lavender, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and sage because they all need full sun and drier soil. Cilantro, basil, parsley, and tarragon would work well together because they prefer moist soil. An exception is mint. Mint plants tend to overrun other plants, so give them their own space.

10) Do you need a drainage hole in container? What if there isn't one?

Drainage holes are important. Without them soil can get soggy, resulting in rotting, diseased roots. If it's not easy to make holes in a container you want to use, there is an alternative. Create a layer of pebbles or gravel a couple inches deep in the bottom of the container and put the soil on top. This layer will hold excess water without letting the roots get waterlogged.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Composting with worms, or vermicomposting, is a fun and easy way to utilize kitchen scraps. It is easy to start a system and perfect even for novices. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about composting with worms.

1. How do you start a worm compost?

Worms are good for more than fishing. Red wigglers are the variety most often used in worm compost but you can also use earthworms. A simple compost box for worms might be an old dresser drawer, wooden fruit box, plastic tub or really anything that will hold the food scraps and worms. Then line it with lightly moistened strips of newspaper. Fill bin 3/4 full of fluffed up strips and sprinkle an inch (2.5 cm.) of soil over the strips. Bury food scraps and add worms. Make food scraps small and avoid too much citrus and any meat, bones, or oil

2. How do you use worm castings?

Worm castings are the bi-product of the worm's digestive efforts. They are nutrient rich, break down easily and enhance any plant's health. You can opt to mix them into potting soil, side dress the veggie garden, top dress potted plants, and even sprinkle some on top of the lawn. The gentle nutrients will not burn plants. Another way to use worm castings is to make a tea. Soak castings in water and mix in a little molasses. Then place in a sprayer and spray soil and foliage.

3. All my worms in compost died. Is it still safe to use?

Worms are a natural organism that will break down over time. If all your worms in your vermicomposting bin died, obviously there was a problem, but you can still use the composted castings. There may be some small odor as a result of the decomposing worms, so avoid using the castings on indoor plants.

4. Is worm compost safe for containers?

Worm castings are 10 to 20 times higher in microbial activity as compared to regular potting soil. There is also a high concentration of nitrates, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and phosphorus. These beneficial nutrients are essential to plant growth. The bonus on worm castings is the gentle delivery of the nutrients. Unlike many plant foods, worm castings will not burn sensitive plant roots. Just a tiny amount of castings has been shown to boost growth in house plants. Castings also pass along pest resistance.

5. How many worms do you need for composting?

Cornell University recommends weighing the worms to determine how many you need. Red wigglers eat half their weight per day. So, if you have 2 pounds of food waste, you need 4 pounds of worms to consume and excrete that waste. But if you don't have quite that amount to start with, do not worry, as they are prodigious breeders and you will soon have plenty of worms.

6. Can worm compost get too hot?

The bin and its contents will heat up due to the presence of living creatures and the microbial activity taking place. In the summer, bins placed in full sun can get too toasty and should be moved to a cooler site. The ideal temperatures for the bin are 55-75 Fahrenheit (12-24 C.). In extreme heat, the worms can die, so keeping the bin within those temperatures will keep the compost system healthy.

7. Can you use any type of worm for vermicomposting?

There are varying opinions on the best types of worms to use. Red wigglers are the ones that most vermicomposters recommend. However, they only eat debris on the top of soil and will consume any junk found there. Earthworms are more selective and only eat organic material that is at least partially buried in soil. Earthworm castings are pre-mixed with soil and the soil is also well aerated by the worms' activity. However, either source provides nutrient-rich castings.

8. How to control bugs in vermicompost?

As long as you control temperature, do not add too much food waste, and keep that waste in small pieces that are easily consumed, you should have little problem with bugs. A bin outdoors will, of course, attract some flies. Set up a fly tape over the bin to reduce the numbers of these pests. If composting excessively sugary foods, you might see ants. Make sure you have a good balance of fruits vs. vegetables to avoid such issues.

9. Can worms eat moldy fruits and veggies?

Worms can eat any organic item; however, it may be best for the overall health of the worm composting bin to avoid such foods. The mold can contaminate the entire bin and the castings before the worms can consume the item. Following these tips on the "do's and don'ts when feeding worms" should help.

10. Will "pot worms" in compost damage plants?

When the pH has changed dramatically, or the compost bin is overly wet, tiny, threadlike white worms can appear. These are pot worms, which will feed on organic matter just like your red wigglers. However, their presence is an indicator that the compost bin is no longer providing the environment the wigglers like. If you want to keep your wigglers, you need to lower moisture a bit and increase the pH. The pot worms are not harmful and will still break down the food waste, just not as effectively as the red wigglers.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Have you ever had problems with vegetables growing in your garden? Do you have too many zucchinis, slug eaten lettuce, or over mature green beans? We've all been there. It doesn't matter if you're a first-year gardener or a seasoned grower, it's easy to make mistakes in the vegetable garden.

Most Common Mistakes in the Vegetable Garden

Here's a rundown of the 10 most common vegetable gardening mistakes and their solutions.

1. Location, Location, Location: Picking the wrong spot to grow vegetables can lead to poor plant performance, difficulty watering, or neglecting chores. Solution: Choose an easily accessible site which receives six to eight hours of sunlight per day and drains well. If yard space is limited, try container or tower gardening methods.
2. Rushing the Season: A beautiful spring day can trick gardeners into thinking it's safe to plant frost tender vegetables. Putting plants out too early or planting in the wrong season lowers yields and increases plant mortality rates. Solution: Follow planting guidelines on seed packets and plant tags.
3. Crowd Control: With so many types and varieties of veggie plants and seeds available, it's easy to over buy and over plant. Crowding plants into the garden creates more competition for nutrients, hampers harvesting, and encourages disease and pests. Solution: Grab a sheet of graph paper and map out the garden. Then only buy what you have room to grow.
4. Sprint Planting: Planting the garden in one day makes it easy to check this chore off the to-do list, but this leads to short harvest periods for many types of veggies like corn and beans. Solution: Instead of looking for creative ways to serve radishes for every meal, extend the harvest period by planting smaller rows of these crops every two weeks.
5. Wildlife Freeloaders: Planting a row for the rabbits may seem like a good way to ensure sufficient harvests for your efforts, but wildlife rarely eat only the vegetables you earmark for them. Solution: Spend your efforts on putting up a fence, using a repellent spray, or intermingling undesirable plants with targeted ones.
6. Weed it or Weep: Weeds create a myriad of problems with vegetables - everything from increased competition for nutrients and sunlight to harboring disease and pests. Solution: Weed frequently or use mulches like shredded paper, grass clippings, or straw which will decompose within one year.
7. Faulty Feeding: Nutritious veggies come from nutrient-rich soil. Failure to feed or improperly feeding garden plants lowers yields and reduces produce quality. Solution: Incorporate plenty of organic compost into the garden soil or apply the correct type of fertilizer at the appropriate time.
8. Moisture Madness: Too much or too little soil moisture levels make it difficult for garden plants to grow and produce optimal crops. Solution: Provide supplemental water when rainfall amounts are less than one inch (2.5 cm.) per week. Improve drainage by incorporating organic compost or raise garden beds.
9. Feast or Famine: When other aspects of garden care are equal, unpredictable weather patterns can affect plant yields. Some years gardeners barely produce enough vegetables for table use, while other years they have bumper crops. Leaving this extra produce in the garden though encourages disease and pests. Solution: Give away, donate, or sell extra produce.
10. Autumn Abandonment: Failure to remove discarded vegetables and plant materials at the end of the season provides a perfect environment for the propagation of both plant diseases and pests. Solution: Make it a habit to clean off the garden at the end of the gardening season. Resist putting weeds and diseased plant material in the compost bin.

Even experienced gardeners have questions from time to time. Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions and we like to give our readers the information they need. Some questions seem to be asked more than others. Here are the 10 most commonly asked questions about lettuce plants. If your lettuce question is here, so is an answer to your question, as well as links to give you even more information.

1. My lettuce is bitter. What am I doing wrong?

The most likely cause of this problem is bolting. Has your lettuce been in the ground awhile and started to grow up rather than out? It may be bolting, that is, producing seeds. At this time lettuce leaves start taking on a bitter taste and it's time to replant. If this is not the case, take a look at what type of lettuce is growing in your garden. Some types of lettuce are sweet naturally, but some can be bitter. If you have the sweet type, be sure you are giving it adequate irrigation - lettuce does not like to do without when it's growing. Too much hot sun can also cause lettuce to taste bitter.

2. How many types of lettuce are there?

If you start listing off all the individual varieties of lettuce available in commerce, you'll get well into the hundreds. But all of them fall into five or six main categories: butterhead, Chinese lettuce (stem lettuce), crisphead (which includes iceberg), looseleaf, romaine, and summer crisp. The summer crisp group is not always named, but we consider it a category of its own.

3. Can lettuce be grown upside down like tomatoes?

Growing plants upside down (also called inverted) allows you to grow in smaller spaces and keeps plants out of the reach of soil pests, like cutworms. But it's even more important to provide inverted gardens with proper nutrition and irrigation. If you want to include lettuce in your upside-down garden, place it in the topmost portion of the hanging plant.

4. Why is my lettuce blooming? Should I pull them up?

It is easy to forget that your garden veggies are plants, just like geraniums and poppies. Left to their own devices, they flower and produce seeds to propagate the species. This is called "bolting" and is often triggered by abundant sunshine. Unfortunately for the gardener, when lettuce bolts, it turns its energy to seed production and the taste of the leaves gets bitter. While it won't kill you, they just don't taste good and many gardeners choose to pull them out and replant.

5. How can get or grow lettuce seeds?

You can purchase lettuce seeds in any garden store and in many hardware and grocery stores too. If you love the type of lettuce currently growing in the garden, allow one head to bolt and collect the seeds. Lettuce is a cool-season crop, so you can direct seed into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring or in early autumn.

6. Why are lettuce seedlings so thin?

When you start lettuce seeds indoors, they may not get the kind of light they need to grow strong. You'll see results if you move the seedlings to a window that gets more light, like a south-facing window. Another trick to get spindly seedlings to grow thicker is to lightly brush your fingers over them a few times a day. Alternatively, place an oscillating fan nearby to blow gently on them for a few hours every day.

7. How can I make lettuce produce heads?

The best way to help lettuce heads form is to plant them at the correct time. Remember, lettuce is a cool-weather crop which means that lettuce heads form best when the weather is cooler. Any unusually warm weather delays head formation, and if it lasts too long, it may prevent it entirely. If this appears to be happening, cool off the lettuce roots with mulch and regular irrigation, or shade the area with an opaque piece of cloth.

8. What's the best way to store lettuce?

Eating dirty lettuce can make you sick, but so can eating lettuce that has been improperly stored in a way that allows bacteria to develop. Your best bet is to wash lettuce before placing it in the refrigerator. Clean off all of the visible dirt by rinsing the leaves under running water and rubbing them clean with your hands. Alternatively, you can put the lettuce in a bowl of water to soak, swishing the leaves around to release the sand and dirt. Dry the lettuce completely before storing it in an air-proof container.

9. What is eating my lettuce leaves and how to control?

Lots of different pests like to munch on lettuce as much as you do. A few common lettuce pests are aphids, flea beetles, garden symphylans, grasshoppers, leaf miners, nematodes, snails and slugs, thrips, weevils and whiteflies. While there are specific ways that work best or getting rid of some of these pests, nontoxic neem oil insecticide works well as a systemic when applied as a soil drench. The oil is absorbed by the plant and distributed throughout the tissue where insects consume it when they are feeding. It can manage over 200 other species of chewing or sucking insects.

10. When to harvest lettuce plants?

Timing is important when it comes to harvesting lettuce, but when to pick depends on what type of lettuce you are growing. Head lettuce is ready to pick when the head becomes firm, and the entire head is harvested at the same time. Leaf lettuce can be harvested leaf by leaf, so it is ready whenever the external leaves are large enough to use. Varieties will differ on how long they take to mature, but since lettuce is a cool season crop, you'll want to harvest all lettuce before the heat of summer hits.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

It can be disheartening to see your beautiful peonies stop producing flowers due to unforeseen challenges. That's why it is the goal of Gardening Know How to help you avoid these issues or at the very least amend them, by providing the best information possible so your peonies will flourish and bloom for many years to come - and that includes answering the questions about peony care that plague us all. Here are the top questions about growing peonies.

1. How to take care of peony flowers?

Once established, peonies bloom proficiently and require little maintenance. Start them off right by choosing a sunny location with good drainage and fertile soil. Peony plants are slow to establish and can take several years to produce abundant flowers.

It's essential to plant peonies at the correct depth and avoid applying thick layers of mulch which can build up over time and bury the roots. Regular maintenance includes deadheading the spent flowers, cutting an herbaceous peony to the ground in the fall, or pruning dead branches from a tree peony. Herbaceous peonies benefit from periodic root division.

2. How deep to plant peonies?

This is an excellent question, as peonies are shallow-rooted plants and require a six-week chilling period in the winter for buds to form. If peonies are planted too deep, few, if any flowers will develop. When transplanting, moving or dividing peony, replant the roots to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm). I like to position the roots with the eyebuds pointing up through the surface of the soil. Even when planted at the correct depth, it can take up to three years for the newly transplanted peony to bloom.

3. When should you move peony plants?

The best time to move a peony is in the fall. I prefer preparing the new site prior to digging up the plant. This allows me to replant quickly which helps reduce transplant shock. I also like to incorporate compost into the soil to improve drainage and increase soil fertility. Since peonies prefer full sun, try to choose a new location that won't be shadowed by overgrown trees in a few years. To make the peony easier to handle, cut back the stems to a few inches above the ground. Once out of the ground, the peony can be divided before replanting in its new home.

4. How to care for container grown peonies?

Caring for a peony in the ground is much easier than one in a pot, but container-grown plants are often the only choice for renters and high-rise dwellers. Peonies are large plants, so begin by choosing a planter that's at least 18 inches (46 cm.) deep by 18 inches (46 cm.) tall. Use a quality potting soil that provides nutrients and facilitates drainage. Planting the peony at the correct depth and providing the proper chill period is essential for flowering. The correct amount of chill can often be attained by overwintering potted peonies in an attached, unheated garage or garden shed.

5. How to treat powdery mildew on peonies?

Powdery mildew is easily identified by the white residue on the peony's foliage. Prevention includes locating peonies in full sun. High temperatures and direct sunlight can inhibit the growth of this fungal disease and prevents its spread by killing the spores. Once peony plants become infected, treat them with an organic fungicide, horticultural oil or neem oil. You can also brew up a homemade fungicide solution using one tablespoon of baking soda, canola oil and bleach-free dish soap to a gallon of water. Spray this on the peony every 10 to 14 days during cool weather.

6. When do you divide peonies?

The best time to divide peonies is late summer (September in the Northern Hemisphere) or early fall. By this time, the peony should be done blooming and entering its dormancy period. I find moving or dividing peony at this time of year reduces the likelihood of heat stress, but still gives the transplant time to become reestablished before winter. Cutting the stems back to a few inches above ground level will conserves the peony's energy and makes the job of moving the plant much easier.

7. Why hasn't my peony produced any buds?

There can be several reasons why peonies fail to flower. If the peony was transplanted recently, it can take up to three years to flower profusely. Lack of sunlight is another reason for a failure to produce buds. Over time, the canopy from nearby trees can expand and block light from reaching the plant. Peony roots also require an adequate chill period to form buds. They grow best in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8. The roots must be not be planted too deep or bud formation will be impeded. Mulch can also build up over the years, burying the roots deeper than recommended.

8. How to prepare peonies for winter?

The answer depends on the type of peony. Herbaceous peonies die back to the ground in the winter. I find it best to clean up the dead plant material and dispose of it in the trash, as the debris can harbor pests and disease. It's not advisable to cover peony roots with mulch or straw since they need a chill period in order to bloom the following spring. Tree peonies lose their leaves in the fall, but the branches remain intact. Tree peony can be lightly pruned to remove dead wood and improve their shape.

9. Should you let peony go to seed?

Peony plants expend energy to form seeds. Deadheading spent flowers redirects that energy into more useful areas, like energy storage for the next year's growth. Peony plants can be deadheaded as soon as the flower fades.

When I deadhead, I like to cut the flower stem back to where the plant has healthy green leaves. This also makes the plant look nicer. The primary reason to allow an open-pollinated peony to produce seeds is for propagation. Although there are many heirloom varieties of peony available, most gardeners find it easier to propagate peonies by root division.

10. When/how should you cut back peony plants?

Pruning of peonies is recommended as part of their annual care. In addition to deadheading spent flowers, herbaceous peonies can be cut to the ground in the fall. Do this once the foliage has yellowed and begun to die back. Be sure to cut several inches above ground level to avoid shearing off the bud eyes. These will develop into stems, leaves and flowers the following spring. Tree peonies develop woody stems which don't die back each year. Instead of cutting tree peonies to the ground, prune dead branches and clean up the fallen leaves.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Gardening Know How is here to help with all your gardening questions, and when it comes to growing and caring for passion flower vines, it's no different. If you have a passion for plants, then no doubt passion flower is on that list. While we receive a number of inquiries regarding these plants, here are the 10 most commonly asked questions about passion flowers.

1. How do you start or grow a passion flower plant?

Passion flower is pretty easy to start. If you have an existing plant, or know a friendly neighbor gardener who does, you can take a cutting. Cut off a 4- to 6-inch (10 to 15 cm.) piece of stem just below a node. Take off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone and then potting soil. Keep it warm and moist and out of direct sunlight. You can also start passion flower from seed. Score seeds gently with sandpaper and soak them in warm water for 24 hours. Put the seeds in soil to a depth of about a quarter inch (0.5 cm.) and keep covered with plastic. Put the seedlings in sunlight once you see leaves.

2. Why are passion flower leaves turning yellow?

Watering issues are most likely to blame for yellowing passion flower leaves. Check the soil and provide extra water if it is dry and if the conditions have been especially hot. If the soil is consistently moist and it isn't too hot, you may need to back off on watering.

3. Why are there no flowers on my passion flower vine?

There are likely some environmental issues preventing your vine from blooming. Passion flower actually prefers not to be fertilized, so if you have been feeding it, stop. Sunlight can also be a problem. The vine needs full sun to bloom, so consider transplanting if necessary. The soil around the roots should be moist but also must drain well. Overwatering and underwatering could prevent blooms. Your vine may also simply be too young to flower. Most passion flower plants will take a few years to establish before flowering.

4. How to prune a passion flower vine?

Prune a passion flower vine regularly to promote thicker growth and flower and fruit production. During late winter, remove any damaged or dead stems. Then, cut back stems in general by about a third of the plant. The vine will come back more vigorously and fuller. If you have an old, overgrown vine, you can prune it back to life. Cut it back to just a few strong stems. New stems should come in, and you can train these to develop a nice, tidy vine.

5. Can I grow passion flower in a pot?

Yes, passion flower can grow well in a container. But, in order to thrive it, will need a large pot. Regularly transplant it to a bigger pot as the plant grows. Watering in a container is especially important. You may need to water more often, but also be sure that the pot drains. Whether in a container or in the ground, your passion flower will need full sunlight.

6. Why is passion fruit shriveling and dropping off?

There are a few potential problems that can cause passion fruit to drop early. An irregular watering schedule may trigger the issue. Passion flower vine needs regular watering but also good drainage. Cold temperatures can be a problem too, as can pests. Mite damage may cause fruit drop, as can fruit vine hoppers. Check for and manage any infestations. Finally, a lack of trace elements in the soil may cause fruit to drop. Get your soil tested through the local extension office to find out if it's missing anything.

7. Can you grow passion flower outside in winter?

It depends on where you live. Passion flower vine is considered hardy outdoors in USDA zones 6 to 9. It may be fine in zone 5, but that's pushing it. If your temperatures get down to the negative double digits Fahrenheit (about -24 and lower Celsius), the vine probably will not survive the winter. You can, however, overwinter the plant indoors.

8. How to control passion flower vines?

Many people plant passion flower intentionally, but it can also be an invasive plant, especially wild varieties. If you need to eliminate or control vines, first try pulling out new growth. If you want to get rid of all of the vines, you'll need to dig out the roots using a shovel. Any remaining roots will regrow. Alternatively, you can use herbicides. Those with picloram, dicamba, or 2,4-D, triclopyr should work with this woody vine.

9. When to harvest passion fruit and how to plant seeds?

The color of the fruit will change when it ripens, but it depends on the variety. Ripe passion fruit will also drop from the vine. If you harvest the seeds, start germinating them when fresh. Score the seeds with sandpaper and soak them in warm water for about 24 hours. Then you can start them as you would other seeds: in a seed tray with moist potting soil. Keep the seeds moist and then place in sunlight once leaves emerge.

10. Can passion flower be transplanted?

You can transplant a passion flower vine, but it can be difficult. The roots go deep, and you'll need to dig most of them out for a successful move. The best time to attempt a transplant is in late winter or early spring before active growth begins for the new season. Dig out the roots when the soil is moist to make it easier. Make sure to plant the roots as deeply as they were in the original location for the best results.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Starting plants from seed is an integral part of gardening. Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions about starting seeds, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about germinating seeds and caring for seedlings.

1. Where/how to store seeds for flowers and vegetables?

Seeds retain their viability when stored at cool temperatures, lower humidity and reduced light exposure. Begin by harvesting high-quality seeds from healthy produce. Next, be sure to thoroughly dry the seeds, then seal them in an airtight container. A jar or zippered plastic bag works well. Next, place the sealed container in the refrigerator or freeze them for storage. Be sure to label the seeds to avoid mix-ups in the spring. It's advisable to use seeds as soon as possible for the quickest germination rate.

2. How long do seeds stay fresh?

How long seeds stay fresh depends upon the type of seed and how the seeds were stored. Seeds stored in a cool, dry, dark location will remain fresher for a longer period of time. On average, most types of vegetable seeds will be viable for 2 to 3 years. Lettuce seed is particularly long-lived and can last for up to 5 years. On the other hand, parsnips rarely germinate after 1 year. To determine freshness, conduct a germination test on the seeds by placing 10 seeds on a moist paper towel. Seal the paper towel in a plastic bag or container. Wait ten days and count the number of seeds which sprouted.

3. Why are some of my seedlings tall and flopping over?

Legginess in seedlings is a symptom of inadequate exposure to light. This condition causes seedlings to grow tall and narrow stems which can't support the weight of the leaves. Most vegetable plants require 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. When sowing outdoors, plant vegetable seeds in a sunny location. Artificial lighting is often necessary when starting seedlings indoors. Florescent tubes were a popular choice in the past, but have since been phased out. These are being replaced with LED bulbs. Most indoor seedlings require 16 hours of artificial light per day to prevent legginess.

4. Can you still plant frozen seeds?

Yes! In northern climates, seeds from native plants frequently lay in frozen ground before germinating as soil temperatures rise in the spring. In fact, seeds of some species require a cold period, or stratification, before germination can proceed. Additionally, seed banks freeze their seeds in order to preserve and extend their freshness. To freeze seeds, be sure they are thoroughly dry as moisture can cause the seed to crack as it freezes. Place the seeds in an airtight container and avoid exposing frozen seeds to bursts of warm, humid air. Keep the frozen seeds at a constant temperature until they are thawed for planting.

5. What seeds should be soaked and why?

Soaking seeds is a gardening trick to speed up germination rates. Larger seeds, those with a tough seed coat or ones which are traditionally slow to germinate, will benefit the most from soaking. Soaking seed is also useful whenever faster germination is desirable. To soak seeds, place them in a bowl of warm water. Large seeds, such as peas and beans, require an overnight soak of 8 to 10 hours. Smaller or thin-walled seeds can benefit from soaking for as little as 1 to 2 hours.

6. Do all seeds need to be covered in order to germinate?

Covering seedlings is not necessary but it helps retain moisture levels which is essential for completion of the germination process. If seeds dry out at critical times, they may fail to sprout. If a cover is not used, it's advisable to regularly check the seeds and mist with water to maintain a moist medium. Some seeds also require light to germinate, so any cover should be 100% transparent. Many seed starting trays come with clear covers, but these often get lost or damaged over the years. Plastic wrap can be used a substitute to cover seed cells. To prevent fungal disease and rotting, be sure to remove any covering once the seeds have sprouted.

7. What does it mean when it says to "sow thinly"?

Instructions to "sow thinly" often accompanies packets containing very small seeds. The challenge with sowing small seeds is getting them spaced far enough apart to prevent overcrowding once the seeds germinate. Trying to thin overcrowded seedlings can result in root damage and lost plants. To thinly sow seeds, space small seeds 3/16 to ½ inch (5 to 10 mm.) apart. Using a seed syringe or mixing the seeds with fine sand can make this task easier.

8. What are the brown discs used for growing seeds?

Seed-starting discs are used for germinating seeds, growing seedlings and in hydroponic gardening. Coir discs are manufactured using the husk or shell of coconuts and are considered eco-friendlier than those made with peat. To use seed-starting discs, soak them in warm water until they are fully expanded. The top of the disc contains an indent or small hole in the material covering the discs. Use this hole to insert the seeds. Keep the discs moist and warm while the seeds germinate. Once seedlings have 2 to 3 sets of true leaves, the disc and seedling can be planted into a pot, transplanted directly into the garden or placed into the growing chamber of a hydroponic system.

9. What is the best type of clay for making seed balls?

Credited as being a "whole habitat in a tiny clay ball," seed balls are an easy way to distribute seeds in hard-to-sow areas. They contain seeds, humus and clay. Making seed balls is fairly easy (and a fun project with kids): Mix the clay and humus with enough water to give the consistency of modeling clay. Knead in the seeds and roll the mixture into 1-inch (2.5 cm.) balls. For the best results, use pottery clay. Look for it at your local craft or art supply store.

10. How many seeds do you put in each hole or pot?

The generic answer is 2 to 3 seeds per hole. This ensures each pot will sprout a seedling. Once the seedlings have developed true leaves, choose the strongest plant in each pot and cull any "extra" seedlings by cutting them off at ground level. This eliminates competition and gives the stronger plants room to grow. However, different species have different seed germination rates. When planting large numbers of the same seed, conduct a germination test and adjust the number of seeds per hole to better reflect the germination rate.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. One of the most popular groups of plants features prominently in our readers queries - growing cactus and succulent plants in the home or garden. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about cacti and succulents.

1) What is eating my succulent plants? Succulents are pretty stoic plants but they do occasionally get bugged. Mites, mealybugs and scale are the most common pests of succulents. Overly wet soil may support fungus gnats. Wipe leaves, if possible, and spray with horticultural oil to repel most succulent pests.

2) How does one propagate a cactus or succulent plant? Succulents and cacti are notoriously easy to grow from parts of themselves. Simply take a leaf or section of stem and allow it to callus or dry for a few days. Plant the dried end in a cactus mix or homemade soil blend of half sand or grit and half potting soil. The piece of plant should root fairly quickly and become a new plant.

3) What is best soil to use with cactus? Desert cacti need well-draining, gritty soil, while tropical cacti, such as Christmas cactus, need slightly more nutrients and moisture. Desert cacti soil is available or make your own blend of half sand or grit and half potting soil. Tropical cacti will thrive in purchased potting soil or a mixture of 1 part top soil, 1 part compost and 1 part peat.

4) When to water a cactus or succulents? Contrary to popular belief, cacti and succulents need rain during their growth period. During active growth, water cactus or succulent plants when your index finger inserted to the second knuckle finds dry soil. Make sure the container has plenty of drainage holes and porous soil. Infrequent watering in winter when they are dormant simulates their wild condition.

5) How can I save a mushy, oozing cactus plant? Nobody wants to see their prized cactus suddenly begin oozing or becoming mushy. Salvaging a plant that has already begun to break down can be tricky. If there are still sections without the rot, prune away all diseased plant material and practice good care to the remainder. Use sharp, sterile instruments for removal of the damaged bits. Keep the plant on the dry side for a few weeks as the healthy tissue repairs the wounds and recovers.

6) Can you prune back cactus to a more manageable height? Many of the taller cacti can be pruned just like a tree. You can do this at any time but during its dormancy is best. Use sharp, sterile tools to remove excess growth. Plant material that has been pruned off can then be allowed to callus and re-planted to start a new cactus. It's also a good idea to protect yourself from the sharp spines of some cactus varieties be wearing long sleeves and thick gloves.

7) When can you repot cactus? You may repot cactus at any time of the year but during dormancy is best. Cactus and succulents do not need to be repotted frequently and prefer crowded quarters. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 3 to 5 years. Purchase or make an appropriate potting mix for the variety of cactus or succulent you are growing and keep the plant dry for a week after transplant.

8) Should I bring my succulents inside for the winter? Knowing your plant's hardiness zone can help decide which plants must come indoors. Desert succulents should be brought indoors in northern to temperate climates. In the south, these plants can persist year around outside except in areas with prolonged freezes. Once indoors, care for succulents in winter is minimal but they do need plenty of light to thrive and little water during this time.

9) What are some succulent plants that can grow outside? Hardy succulents provide an interesting touch to the landscape. Choose plants such as Sempervivium (hens and chicks), Sedum, Jovibarba, and Rosularia. Each group has numerous cultivars in different shapes, growth habits and colors and they are all hardy outdoor specimens.

10) How do you care for succulent plants? Succulents that are native to desert regions generally need at least 8 hours of bright, indirect light, infrequent moisture and have low fertility needs. Feed succulents once per year in late winter to early spring. Reduce water by half in winter when plants are dormant. Repot every 3 to 5 years, using a gritty, well-draining medium. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge.

Adding berms to the landscape is a common practice for many homeowners and gardeners. As such, there are a number of issues that may need to be tackled as you consider their construction. Below are the 10 most commonly asked questions about berms in the landscape.

1) Is there something or some way of keeping the weeds down in my berm? Organic mulches can be very beneficial in preventing weeds in a berm. Weed barrier fabric will also minimize weeds and can be installed under soil or mulch. Cut holes in the fabric where plants will be installed. Additionally, adding groundcovers to the berm can help prevent some weeds while also holding soil in place.

2) What types of plants are good for preventing soil erosion in a berm? While nearly any plant can be used in a berm, its construction usually determines the best type. When you are constructing berms for soil erosion, or if eroding soil is an issue within an existing berm, then suitable plants, like groundcovers, are a perfect way of conserving soil in these hilly situations. Tenacious plants like ivy, vinca, or thyme will quickly cover the berm, holding soil with their roots and rambling stems. Grasses with fibrous, spreading root systems are also terrific soil holders.

3) Do you have any ideas for planting and designing landscaping berms? Plants for berms abound as do the many reasons you may have for adding them to your landscape. One of the easiest ways to landscape with almost no maintenance is to use native plants. They are uniquely adapted to survive without human intervention. Before planting anything, chart out the plan on graph paper. Make sure selected plants are suited to the site and install the tallest plants so they won't cover or shade lower specimens. Also, determine how the berm is to be used (to redirect water, prevent soil erosion, ornamental, etc.) and choose your plantings accordingly.

4) Will plant roots freeze when planting in berms? Berms are generally built out of soil and/or layers of organic material. These create an insulated bed that actually will keep roots warm. Plants at the edge of the berm are more exposed to open air and do have the potential to freeze but a thick cover of mulch should protect them. Additionally, prior to planting, ensure that the plants you're wanting to add are hardy to your region as well as the area in which they're to be planted.

5) What are the best plants and groundcover to use for berms? Because of the shape of a berm, the top will be drier than the base. Select plants for the top that can tolerate periods of dryness and use moisture lovers around the edges. You can choose to landscape with groundcovers, shrubs or just flowers. It depends upon the site and conditions. A fun spring to summer berm might be covered in Wave petunias.

6) How to allow for soil settling when designing a berm? On average, the berm will settle to almost half its height over time. If you want a very high berm, build it initially taller than you require. The more organic matter used to make the berm, the more it will settle. For less settling, use a base of rocks and top these with your soil.

7) What would happen if we built a berm on top of the asphalt driveway? Where you decide to site a berm is important and should not be placed over top of asphalt or concrete. The asphalt will not allow adequate drainage, potentially causing loss of soil and water-logged plant roots. Any space that will be accommodating plants should have plenty of drainage.

8) How do you water trees in a berm? If possible, create a well around the tree at installation. This will form a catch basin that traps moisture. Soaker hoses are also useful as they deliver water slowly, preventing run-off. There are also slow release water delivery bags that you can purchase.

9) How to get professional looking edging for berms? Lawn and garden centers carry numerous edging options that are easy to install. Rocks or bricks are an affordable edging, but you can also build a low retaining wall to set off the plants in the berm. Low compact shrubs can also be used to edge around the berm for a natural look.

10) What mulch works well for berms in the lawn? You can use recycled tire mulch, plastic mulch or whatever you prefer when mulching berms. Bark mulch has the added benefit of beauty and it slowly composts into the soil, adding nutrients. Plus, it can be an organic addition to the garden. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out.

So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Gardening Know How gets a lot of questions when it comes to growing plants and their subsequent care. We try to provide answers to those questions as best we can so that gardeners can feel more at ease when issues crop up in the garden. Watermelons are popular vining plants grown in gardens for their luscious juicy fruit, but they're not without problems. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about watermelon plants.

1. Should I prune my watermelon plant?

No, ideally, you should not prune a watermelon vine. Hopefully, you knew going in that watermelon plants take up lots of space. They need all those leaves to help convert the sun into energy, ergo fruit. That said, if you're melon is overwhelming the garden, you can, indeed, cut it but be aware that doing so may affect fruit production. A better option is to train the vine up a trellis but be sure to give the large fruit some extra support. Old pantyhose, for example, make terrific melon hammocks.

2. Why is my watermelon plant dropping flowers?

The blossoms may be dropping prematurely from the watermelon due to a number of factors. Stress brought on by inadequate pollination, environmental factors, lack of fertile soil and/or irrigation and even insects may result in premature drop. Be sure that you plant the melon in fertile soil and keep the plant well watered. Keep an eye out for insects such as thrips. Overly high daytime or low nighttime can affect pollination as can insufficient bee populations. Protect the vine by using shade cloth and limit the use of insecticides, especially from mid-morning to mid-evening when bees are out and about.

3. Is fertilizing needed during the growth of watermelon vines?

Well, a soil test will tell you for sure if you need to fertilize watermelon plants. In the absence of a soil test, I would go ahead and feed the plant as follows: Use a nitrogen-based fertilizer when the plant is young but once it begins to bloom, switch to a fertilizer that is phosphorus and potassium based. To minimize the amount of fertilizing you need to do, start the plant off with a healthy dose of compost. Dig about 4 inches (10 cm.) of compost into the top 6 inches (15 cm.) of soil prior to sowing seed or transplanting.

4. Why do watermelons split open when almost ripe?

Watermelons may burst open because of a lack or surfeit of water. It often occurs after a period of drought followed by heavy rain. Another cause for splitting melons is heat. When temps heat up, the water pressure of the melon rises, causing the melon to split open. To combat this, use a shade cloth or cover the melons with straw mulch to keep them cooler. Lastly, some watermelon cultivars just seem to have a propensity towards splitting, especially the thin rind types like Icebox.

5. Why are our watermelons rotting on the end?

It's possible that the melon has bottom end rot, a condition wherein the fruit isn't getting enough calcium. Giving the plant calcium won't solve the issue, which is a bit more complex. The condition is also related to fluctuations in water during the fruit production. Next time around, test your soil. It should be 6.5. Incorporate a good amount of compost into the soil and be consistent with the watering.

6. What is the spacing in planting watermelons?

How far apart to space watermelon plants really depends on what variety you are growing. A general rule of thumb is to space plants 3 feet (just under a meter) apart for the smaller bushing types of melon and up to 12 feet (4 m.) apart for the really large varieties. A common guideline is to plant three seeds an inch (2.5 cm.) deep into a hill that is spaced 4 feet (1 m.) apart with 6 feet (2 m.) between each row.

7. When is the best time to harvest watermelons?

Most of the common types of watermelon are ready to harvest 80 days from sowing. Watermelons won't ripen once they have been picked, so look for the following telltale signs of ripeness: Sound, a ripe watermelon will usually, but not always, give a good thud when gently knocked on. The underside of ripe melons will have a creamy or yellow area. Also, a ripe melon should be heavy for its size, but the real kicker is the little green tendril closest to the stem of the fruit. If it is still green, wait for another day to pick the watermelon. 

8. How often should I water my watermelon in container?

Watermelons require a lot of water as it is and anything that is container grown will need to be kept an eye on with regards to water. Container grown plants dry out much faster than those grown directly in the garden. So, container grown watermelons should be given water every day when temps are under 80 F. (27 C.) and twice daily when temperatures exceed this.

9. When is the best time to plant watermelon?

Watermelons take around 80 days to mature. They are planted in the spring and can be directly sown outdoors when all danger of frost has passed and soil temps are at least 65 F. (18 C.). For those living in cooler regions, sow seeds indoors a month before you plant to transplant.

10. Do watermelons self-pollinate?

Watermelons bloom with both male and female flowers. When they are open at the same time, pollination occurs with the aid of bees. On occasion, such as when growing the plant on a high balcony or in a heavily polluted region, there may be a lack of pollinators, in which case, the melon plant can be hand pollinated.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Growing grapes in the landscape is a popular endeavor for many gardeners, and one that includes many issues. As a result, we receive a number of questions about grapevines in the garden. Here are the top ten.

1. What type of soil is best for growing grapevines?

Growing grapevines prefer a well-draining sandy loam with a pH of 5.5-6.5. That said, grapes are fairly tolerant of their soil conditions provided they are neither too alkaline or too acidic, have sufficient organic content and are well-draining.

2. Can you plant just one grapevine or do you need two?

Almost all commercially produced and grown grapes are self-pollinating. This means that they do not require another grape to set fruit. Wild grapes, on the other hand, usually require a male and a female plant to produce grapes. If you have the space though, plant two just for variety.

3. How to prune grapevines?

Grapes should always be pruned during their dormant period in the winter. In order to promote fruiting, be brave and prune hard. Be sure to cut off as much of the old wood as possible, which will, in turn, encourage production of new shoots and vines upon which the fruit is produced. When pruning grapes that require winter protection, the goal is to prune into one horizontal trunk that can easily be removed from the support structure. Otherwise, remove all growth except new fruiting canes and renewal spurs. Select a branch and cut it back 3-4 feet (around a meter), leaving at least a two-bud renewal spur. Tie this cane to the support and remove all other canes. At the end of the growing season, cut off the old trunk just below the renewal cane.

4. What to use to fertilize your grapevines?

Grapes have a deeply growing root system and, as a result, unless your soil is very poor, usually require very little additional fertilizer. The only way to really be sure is to do a soil test; grapes like a pH of 5.5-7.0, so amend accordingly. Thereafter, give the vine a light fertilization with an all-purpose 10-10-10 food at the rate of no more than ¼ pound (113 g.) applied in a circle 4 feet away from each vine. If you would rather use manure, apply 5-10 pounds (2-4.5 kg.) of poultry or rabbit or 5-20 pounds (2-9kg.) of steer or cow manure per vine. Urea, ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate can also be used to fertilize the grape after the vine has bloomed. Fertilize grapes just when buds emerge in the spring.

5. How soon after planting will you have grapes to harvest?

Grapevines do not usually produce their first year, although it depends on how old the vine was when purchased. Generally, grapes begin producing in their second year but these should be snipped off to allow the vine to focus on strengthening its root system. By the third year, a healthy vine should be producing grapes for harvesting.

6. How do I get vines to produce grapes?

A grapevine that is not producing could be the result of several of factors. It could be that the soil pH doesn't suit the vine; grapes like a pH of 5.5-7.0. They also do not like soil that doesn't drain well or has a surfeit of nitrogen. Do a soil test and then amend the soil if necessary. It may be that the vine does not get sufficient light. Pruning hard will go a long way to giving the vine access to more light and a hard prune actually encourages growth. Most hard pruning should be done every winter when the plant is dormant, but some cultivars such as Concord, Crimson Seedless, and Thompson seedless are cane pruned in the spring and early summer. Most grapes are self-pollinated, but there are a few that require a partner or they will not produce. If your grape is a Riverbank grape or Muscadine, it needs partner in order to produce grapes.

7. How do I move my grapevine to another location?

Grapevines have deep tenacious roots, so if you need to move the vine, you will either need a backhoe or a strong back and a willingness to sweat. If you are up for it, the best time to transplant a grapevine is in the fall or early spring. Cut the vine back to 8 inches (20 cm.) from the ground. Dig around the trunk to locate the peripheral roots and then start digging them free from the soil. Once these outer roots have been freed, dig a deep vertical trench around the vine and lever it from the earth. Move the vine to a hole that is twice as wide as the root system. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole to accommodate the roots and then fill in. Water the vine frequently as it establishes.

8. How do treat black rot of grapes?

Black rot of grapes should be treated between bud break until around four weeks after bloom. Use Captan or Myclobutanil fungicides. Otherwise, prevention is the best management option. Remove any mummy grapes and all grape detritus from the ground in the fall. Prune out any afflicted vines and don't be afraid to prune heavily. In the spring, if any lesions pop up, remove them ASAP and begin fungicide applications.

9. How grow grapes in a pot?

Grapes grow quite well in containers if you follow a few guidelines. First of all, you need a container that is at least 15 gallons with drainage holes. The container can be made of almost anything but keep in mind that some materials absorb heat and might make the roots of the plant too hot. Next, you need a sturdy trellis or other support. Now you just need to plant your grape. Grapes are tolerant of most soil types but prefer a well-draining, sandy loam with a pH of 5.5-6.5. Grapes do not need additional fertilizer, but if you do decide to feed the vine, do so with a low nitrogen food. Keep the container consistently moist.

10. How to winterize grapevines?

Grape winter protection depends on your USDA zone. Some areas can get away with mounding 8 inches (20 cm.) of snow over the vines, while colder regions need to add insulating mulch like straw or shredded cornstalks to protect the vines. If your area gets cold but doesn't snow, the vines should be covered more deeply, say with a foot or two of soil. Some gardeners go to extremes and actually plant the vine in a deep trench. As the plant grows, more soil is added. Others use a shallow trench and the dormant vines are removed from their supports, wrapped in old blankets or burlap and then placed into a slightly sloped trench lined with sand. A second layer of protective covering place atop the vines along with black plastic or insulating fabric and is then secured with soil or rocks.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Orchids are popular flowers, but for newcomers, growing them can be intimidating. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about growing orchids.

1. How to care for orchids?

Orchids are not as difficult to care for as some people fear; they are just different from other houseplants. As epiphytes, their roots need air circulation and moisture. Use an orchid growing medium instead of soil and replant with new medium as needed. The medium will break down with time, so keep an eye on it. Water your orchid plant about once a week by soaking the roots in the sink. Use a fertilizer once weekly as well. Place an orchid in a sunny spot and keep the air around it humid by setting the pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water.

2. How much do I water an orchid?

Most orchid plants need to be watered once a week. When the growing medium is dry for about an inch down or lower, the plant needs watering. When watering, really soak the roots. Put the container in the sink and let water run over and soak the roots several times.

3. What type of pot or container should you plant an orchid in?

The most important factor in choosing a container for orchids is drainage. The roots need to be wet most of the time but not sitting in water, so a pot with drainage holes is an absolute must. Any kind of material is fine, but the best type of pot for an orchid is clear or translucent plastic. In the wild, orchids grow with their roots exposed to air and light, so this allows some light to get through to them.

4. How to fertilize my orchid?

Orchids need water soluble fertilizer because they don't grow in soil. A balanced fertilizer or one designed specifically for orchids will work. Use fertilizer at least once a month but up to once weekly. Mix the fertilizer with water as described on the package instructions and use it to water the plant by soaking the roots.

5. Should you cut the stem off the plant when it's done blooming?

When cutting back orchids, it really depends on the type, as they have various needs. For Phalaenopsis orchids, trim off flowers as they begin to fade using sharp shears. Cut back to the main branch. When it is completely done blooming, typically in the fall, trim back the stem that held the flowers to about an inch from the main stem. With a Dendrobium orchid, you can cut back flowers as they fade, but leave the flowering stem in place. New flowers will bloom on it later.

6. Why do the buds form but then fall without opening, and how can I get my orchid to bloom?

When an orchid drops its buds before blooming, it is called bud blast. Buds are very sensitive and if you experience this, it is likely the environmental conditions are not right and are impacting them. Some causes include: too little light or too much direct light; dry air; extreme temperatures, such as cold drafts from a window; over- or under-watering; air pollutants; insect infestations; and too much fertilizer. Check your conditions and make adjustments to get the orchid to bloom.

7. My orchid has mealybugs. How do I get rid of them?

Pests on orchid plants can be frustrating but easily remedied in most cases. Mealybugs are immobile and will grow covers over themselves on the leaves of orchids. Gently scrape these off to begin, and then use a gentle pesticide to treat your plant until the pest is completely gone. Use neem oil in warm water or an insecticidal soap once a week.

8. Should you trim the orchid roots that are growing out of the pot?

Orchids often grow new roots that emerge from the container; these are called tendrils or air roots. As epiphytes, it is natural for orchids to have roots exposed to the air. They absorb moisture and nutrients from the air. Healthy tendrils are firm and whitish in color. These should not be removed. They are healthy and normal. Dry, dead, or diseased tendrils can be removed with a clean, sharp tool.

9. What type of soil or growing medium is good for an orchid?

Orchids should never be planted in soil. They are epiphytes, which means they grow with their roots exposed and attached to trees. The roots absorb nutrients from the air and from decaying matter on the trees. In containers they should be grown in specialized medium or mix made just for orchids. There are different types of mix depending on the variety of orchid. Common materials in mixes include tree bark, peat moss, perlite, lava rock, tree fern, and sphagnum moss.

10. When and how to repot orchids?

There are two reasons to repot an orchid: when the roots start growing outside the container and when the growing medium has broken down too much. The latter causes the medium to become denser, preventing roots from getting needed airflow. Depending on the orchid and its growing conditions, it may need to be repotted as often as every six months or as little as every three years. Use a slightly larger pot, brand new medium, and move the orchid when it is not flowering. Clean and soak the roots before putting in the new pot.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to the best of our knowledge.

In this do-it-yourself era, we are often flooded with questions about garden design and layout. As a landscape designer, I have designed gardens and landscapes intended to serve all sorts of purposes, from purely aesthetic gardens to fully functional edible gardens to problem-solving gardens, such as rain gardens.

The following article includes the 10 most commonly asked questions relating to garden design.

1. How do you design a year-round garden?

The key to designing a garden that can be enjoyed all year is selecting a combination of plants with year-round interest.

This does not necessarily mean plants that bloom throughout each season. While in southern climates it may be possible to have blooms in the garden year-round, in cool northern climates, gardeners have learned to appreciate other attributes to create spectacular four-season gardens.

Think about adding plants specifically for their colorful leaf displays; seasonal color changes may also include twigs and branches, such as the bright red or yellow winter color of certain dogwoods. Choose plants that add unique textures, such as ornamental grasses, and/or trees and shrubs with peeling or interesting bark.

Plant shapes can also add interest to the garden. Gnarly, contorted, and twisted trees, like contorted hazelnut, can actually look more interesting after losing their foliage, while weeping, pendulous plants also provide year-round interest.

Lastly, consider plants with colorful early blooms, late-season berries and fruit, or attractive catkins or seed pods for spring and fall interest.

2. How do you plan a large garden layout?

Perhaps, the easiest way to plan a garden layout is to measure out the area and then sketch it out to scale. Most people use graft paper and pencil to do this. Your sketch does not have to be a masterpiece or award-winning design; it need only make sense to you. However, drawing it to scale will help you best utilize the space.

With large garden spaces, it can also help to break the area down into smaller gardens, divided by paths and walkways to make them easily accessible. Again,these smaller gardens should be designed specifically for your gardening style or needs. For example, if you're a heavy tea drinker, layout a space for growing your favorite herbs and perennials for tea.

If garden layout is truly not your cup of tea, there are also many books, magazines and websites full of garden designs you can use for inspiration and, of course, you can hire landscape designers or architects to design your garden.

3. Do raised container beds need drainage holes?

Traditionally, a raised bed is constructed as wood, brick, metal or stone boxes filled with soil to raise the garden above ground level for easier accessibility and/or drainage. Typically, the bottom of these boxes is left open to the bare ground, or constructed with a permeable material in the bottom such as stone or landscape fabric. The purpose of an open or permeable bottom is to allow for adequate drainage.

As raised bed gardening has gained popularity, there are many new ways to enjoy this gardening trend, from buying pre-made raised garden tables to repurposing old livestock water troughs, pools or tubs, or purchasing one of the beautiful new long-lasting metal beds in different shapes.

Whatever a raised container garden bed is made from, it will need to have drainage. The only exception to this rule is if you are actually growing water plants in it. In some cases, you may need to remove the bottom of a vessel or drill adequate holes in it to allow a raised container garden bed to drain properly.

4. How do I start a garden in a freshly cleared wooded area?

When planning a garden in a freshly cleared wooded area, you should begin by investigating and testing the soil in the garden. It's much easier to create proper soil conditions before a garden is planted than to try to correct soil problems in an existing garden.

Besides having the soil tested for nutrient levels, you should also test the site's drainage and map the sunlight in the area.

Starting a garden journal at this point can help you keep track of your findings, log your progress, as well as note your successes and failures. Before planting the garden, make any necessary soil amendments. Then plan out the garden based on plant sun or shade needs, plant heights and widths, and of course, plant texture and color.

5. What is distance apart for bedding plants?

How far apart to plant bedding plants depends on the plants and the look you desire. Before planting, determine each plant's mature width. This information can usually be found on seed packets or plant tags, but if not, you can always Google this information.

Next, decide if you want the plants to touch and form a mass or if you want formal spaces between plants. If you'd prefer each plant to have space around them, take the plant's mature width and multiply it by 1.5 or even 2 and space them that far apart. For example, a plant with a mature width of 12 inches (30 cm.) will have nice spaces between them if you plant them 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) apart.

On the other hand, if you want the mass planted look, where the plants touch and grow together with no gaps, then plant them closer than their expected mature width. For example, if the plants mature to a width of 10 inches (25 cm.), planting them 8 inches (20 cm.) apart will ensure that they grow together. Plants can also be staggered for a fuller look. You can also calculate spacing using the square foot method of planting.

6. How much separation should there be between a septic tank and a vegetable garden?

Generally, plants with shallow roots can be placed around or even over a septic tank with no worries of the roots damaging the tank or its function. Most perennials, annuals and vegetable plants have shallow roots and will be fine with little to no space between them and the septic tank. You should, however, avoid planting trees, shrubs and other plants with larger,woody root structures.

When planting around or over septic tanks, bear in mind that you or septic tank servicemen may still need access to certain parts of the septic tank, and if the septic tank ever needs to be replaced, so will your garden.

7. Are the cement cinder blocks okay to use for raised beds?

Cinder blocks are a common material used for building raised beds. They are generally considered safe for use in gardens and around plants. However, there is some concern that cinder blocks may contain fly ash, a byproduct of burning coal. The concern is that fly ash can leach heavy metals into the soil.

Sadly, not much research has been done on the subject. It may be wise to take caution or thoroughly research the composition of the exact blocks you have before using them to create raised beds for edibles. There are also many other materials out there to make raised beds.

8. Which way to plant vegetable garden?

There is no right or wrong way to plant a vegetable garden. Where you plant your vegetable garden will depend on your site.

Most vegetables require full sun, but those that prefer light shade can be planted so that taller plants provide relief from the sweltering sun.

The days of traditional rectangular plots with perfect tidy rows are long gone. Today, garden space is utilized to its fullest potential by using techniques such as companion planting and succession planting. In both cases, plants are fairly close together to help each other grow or to take over once the original plant has run its course.

9. Can you lay plastic in the garden?

There are many good reasons to lay plastic in the garden. Most commonly, plastic is laid as a weed block, like landscape fabric. Some argue that plastic weed block is more harmful than helpful as it does not allow for the proper exchange of gases and may hinder the penetration of nutrients into the soil. Without the proper exchange of gases, earthworms and microorganisms in the soil may die out.

Another reason for laying plastic in the garden may be to kill off grasses or weeds by solarization- for this, thick clear plastic is usually used to intensify the sun's rays, essentially cooking the vegetation beneath the plastic. Black plastic, on the other hand, can also kill unwanted vegetation by blocking out the sun, not allowing weeds and grasses to photosynthesize. We recommend using biodegradable plastic if possible.

10. How to create privacy screening in the landscape?

Privacy screening can be created using plants in several ways. Naturally, you can just plant a row of tall arborvitae or other evergreens and enjoy your privacy behind them year round. Other tall plants can also create privacy screens or hedges, whether they lose their leaves or not. The privacy may not be as dense in the winter months, but many of us aren't out in the garden a lot in winter. Tall or wide trellises or fences covered in climbing vines can also create a beautiful privacy screen, as can bermed-up lushly planted beds or swales. Many garden retailers also sell decorative garden screens, and Pinterest is full of unique ideas for creating privacy in the garden, such as spacing unique old doors or other repurposed items in the garden.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge, especially when it comes to plant propagation. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about we receive about propagating plants. We'll answer when, how and what regarding all your propagation needs. Whether you have seed or cuttings, many of your queries will be answered.

1. How to save seeds from plants?

Depending upon the type of plant, saving seed is often as easy as allowing the seed head to ripen and dry and then removing seeds from chaff and placing them in a container. Other seeds, such as those from fruit, need to be soaked and have the flesh pared away prior to storage. As a rule, most seeds need to be stored in a cool, dry, dark location.

2. How do you take cuttings from plants?

Timing for cuttings varies by species but most should be taken from young, still growing material as with softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings. Always sterilize your cutting implement and cut just above a growth node to prevent unsightly dead twigs on your plant.

3. How and when to start seeds indoors?

Seeds that will be planted outdoors need to be started at least 6 to 8 weeks prior to the date of the last frost. A good purchased seed starting mixture is useful, as well as small container or flats. You can also make your own planting blend. For veggies and most perennials, a mix of 1/3 each garden soil, peat and compost will work perfectly. For cacti, succulents and xeriscape plants, mix half soil with half gritty material such as horticultural sand.

4. What is rooting hormone?

Rooting hormone is a plant auxin or growth hormone. They may come purchased in a powder or liquid form. These products help cuttings root faster and easier. Homemade rooting hormones can be made from willow tea, honey and cinnamon.

5. What is soilless mix?

Soilless mixes are good media to reduce the chance of fungal growth. They do not contain soil and, therefore, reduce the chances of disease, insects and bacteria transferring to your little plants. Examples are sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite and horticultural sand. Often, the items are blended for specific types of plants. You can also make your own soilless mix.

6. How do you graft a tree and what types can be grown together?

Grafting is the best way to preserve a plant's characteristics. The process unites a scion (top part of plant) with a rootstock (rooted base). There are five common ways to graft, but the easiest is to take a cutting of your desired plant and then select an appropriate rootstock. Bind the cut ends of both together with plant tape. Over time, the two pieces will grow together.

7. Can I root plants in water and which ones?

Many of our favorite houseplants, herbs and even garden ornamentals can be rooted in water. A switch of willow is a classic example of an ornamental tree which will produce roots quickly in water. Other examples of plants that root easily are spider plants, pothos, hibiscus, sage, mint, and ivy. Soft stemmed plants with bumps on the stems work best, like tomatoes. It doesn't cost a thing to just try a cutting and the results may be amazing.

8. Why are my seedlings leggy?

If your seedlings are becoming leggy, a lack of light is the most likely cause. Plants stretch out to receive maximum light. Try pinching the plant back and situating it in a higher sunlight situation.

9. When should you divide bulbs and perennials?

Dividing plants is an easy process that can result in more of your favorite plants. Wait until the plant has died back. Let foliage turn yellow on bulbs and then dig up the cluster and separate, planting each bulb individually. For perennials, wait until early spring and dig them up. Cut the root mass into 2 or 3 pieces and bury individually. Use good sharp, clean implements to avoid transferring disease or damaging the pieces.

10. How to propagate succulent cuttings?

Succulents are one of the easiest forms of plant to propagate. Many can be started from a leaf or piece of stem simply laid upon a nice, lightly moist, soilless medium or cactus mix. Many succulents form pups that you can divide from the parent plant and individually pot up. Keep starts a bit on the dry side as they root.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Hydrangea plants are a garden favorite offering spectacular beauty to the landscape. That said, they are not without their fair share of problems. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about hydrangea shrubs.

1. Why isn't my hydrangea blooming?

If your hydrangea isn't blooming, it's almost always because it only blooms on old growth. Some varieties bloom on new growth, and these hardly ever cause problems. Old growth varieties, however, can run into a number of issues. If you've pruned your plant too much, or if it's died back to the ground in the winter, it's not going to bloom this season. The plant is still okay, and it will grow just fine, but all its growth will be vegetative until next summer. The only thing you can do is wait.

2. How/when do you prune a hydrangea?

Hydrangea pruning varies depending upon the kind of plant you're growing. There are two major types of hydrangea - those that bloom on old growth and those that bloom on new growth. If your hydrangea blooms on old growth, you should prune it in summer or autumn after it has finished flowering. If it blooms on new growth, you should prune it in late winter or early spring before new buds set. Both kinds of hydrangea benefit from deadheading throughout the growing season to encourage more flower production.

3. How or when to transplant hydrangeas?

The best time to transplant a hydrangea is in late winter or early spring, when the plant is still dormant. Water your hydrangea thoroughly before moving, then use a shovel or spade to dig a ring around the root ball. You want to get as many roots as possible. Lift the root ball out of the soil and transplant it to a pre-dug hole in its new home. The goal is to keep the roots out of the ground as little as possible. Make sure the soil line is at the same level on the crown of the plant, and water it thoroughly and frequently for the next several weeks.

4. How do I protect and care for my outdoor hydrangeas in winter?

Many varieties of hydrangea are cold hardy, but they still benefit a lot from winter protection. If your hydrangea blooms on old growth, this is the best time to prune it. Don't cut it down to the ground, or you won't get any blossoms in the spring, but you can remove any dead or weak stems and trim the bush to the size you want. Build a protective cage by sinking four wooden stakes into the ground around the plant and wrapping it in chicken wire. Fill the cage with loose material like pine needles or oak leaves to provide a nice insulating layer. If you keep your hydrangeas in pots, the best thing to do is to bring them inside before the first frost.

5. How to care for hydrangea in pots?

Hydrangeas do well in pots, as long as they have adequate care. If you've received one as a gift, transplant it right away into a pot that's several inches wider and has good drainage. Give it lots of sun and frequent water. Potted hydrangeas do best if brought indoors for the winter, or at least kept in a protected but unheated garage or shed, where they should be mulched and watered a little once a month. It's alright if the plant freezes, but best if it stays frozen throughout the winter - lots of thawing and refreezing is bad for the roots.

6. How to propagate my hydrangea?

Hydrangeas almost never produce seeds, which means they need to be propagated from cuttings. In the fall, take a 6-inch cutting of new growth that has no flowers on it. Cut it just below a set of leaves. Remove all but the top two leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and sink it in damp potting medium. Place a plastic bag over the cutting, put it out of direct sunlight, and keep it moist. New roots and leaves should start to grow in two to four weeks.

7. Should the hydrangea flowers be deadheaded?

It's not necessary to deadhead hydrangea flowers. But it's not harmful, either, and it can keep the bushes looking nice. Feel free to remove spent blooms throughout the growing season. It's important to remember, however, just to cut off the flower head itself. If you cut farther down on the stem, you might be inadvertently removing buds and thwarting your plans for future flowers. Just snip off the spent blooms, taking care to leave the top set of leaves intact.

8. How to change color of my hydrangea flowers?

Hydrangea flowers come in different colors, but those colors are dependent upon soil makeup rather than plant variety. If a hydrangea has blue flowers, this means the soil it's planted in is high in aluminum or has a low pH. If a hydrangea has pink flowers, it's planted in soil that is low in aluminum or has a high pH. You should test your soil before making any adjustments if you want to change the hydrangea color. You can turn your hydrangeas blue by lowering the pH, or making the soil more acidic, with the addition of vinegar or an acid fertilizer. You can turn the flowers pink by raising the pH with lime or a phosphorus-heavy fertilizer.

9. How to grow hydrangeas in warm climates?

Hydrangeas can be grown in warm climates, but as a rule they don't like very hot weather. The best way to keep your hydrangeas happy in the heat of summer is to plant them in a spot where they receive some afternoon shade. It's true that hydrangeas like sun, but not as much as they like keeping cool. They also need lots of water, so you should irrigate them frequently and deeply, especially if they get lots of hot sun. If your summers are hot and moist, space them far apart to encourage airflow and prevent the development of fungus and disease.

10. Why does my hydrangea droop?

Hydrangeas love water (that's why they have "hydra" in their name. If your hydrangeas are constantly drooping, it's almost definitely because they're not getting enough moisture. Hydrangeas should be watered deeply at least once per week. If they're getting lots of direct sunlight, and especially if they're in containers, then the watering should be even more frequent. Newly planted hydrangeas also need more water than usual. If you just planted your bushes this summer, make sure to keep their soil nice and moist and put up a shield to protect them from the brightest afternoon sunlight. This should help keep them from drying out and give their roots a chance to grow and find their own moisture.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Gardening Know How receives a lot of questions growing and caring for plants in the garden. Holly shrubs are common additions to the landscape and not without their share of problems. This article container information on the 10 most asked questions about holly bushes and answers to go with them. 1. When should you prune holly shrubs? The best time to prune holly bushes is in the winter, when they're dormant. If you're doing this, it's acceptable to cut back up to one third of the plant's growth. It's not absolutely necessary to do this in the winter, though. You can do some minimal pruning to shape the bush at any time of year - just be aware that pruning in late summer might result in fewer berries in the autumn. Some varieties, like Yaupon and Chinese holly, don't need to be pruned at all. 2. How to get berries on my hollies? Holly bushes are dioecious, which means they come in two sexes. If your holly bush isn't producing berries, it's almost certainly because of two possible reasons. Either it's a female plant, which means it needs a male plant present in order to make berries, or it's a male plant, which means it will never make berries. In both cases, you're going to need to plant a second bush. Figure out which sex you have, then make sure to buy one of the opposite sex. You should have berries soon. 3. How to tell the difference between male and female holly bushes? The easiest way to distinguish male and female holly bushes is to look for berries. If a bush has berries on it, then it's female. Unfortunately, not all bushes without berries are male - they may be female bushes that are unpollinated or just out of season. The next best way to distinguish is by the flowers - male flowers have more prominent stamens than their female counterparts. Another good rule of thumb is to check for cultivar names. Many cultivars have matching names for the two sexes, like "Blue Prince" and "Blue Princess." Just watch out for "Golden Queen" and "Golden King" which, for some reason, are named for the opposite sexes! 4. Why are the leaves turning yellow on my holly? Yellow leaves on a holly bush usually means an iron deficiency and is often referred to as iron chlorosis. It can be caused by a few things. One major factor is too much water, either due to overwatering or poor drainage. This can leach away the iron in the soil and suffocate the plant's roots. Another cause can be high pH levels. If the soil is too alkaline, it prevents the plant's roots from taking up enough iron. Occasionally, the problem is simply due to low iron levels in the soil, although this is not often the case. 5. How to treat the white spots on holly shrubs? White spots on holly leaves can be due to a few different things. The culprit might be mealybugs, which leave a cottony residue on the undersides of leaves. Another possible issue is scale, tiny armored bugs that come in shades of brown to white and can be found in clusters on the undersides of leaves. If the white spots have more of a dusty, fungal look to them, your problem is probably powdery mildew. All of these problems can be treated effectively and safely with Neem oil. 6. How to fertilize holly plants? There are a few good options for holly fertilizer. Rich compost and well-rotted manure are both good options. If you want to go the commercial route, choose a complete fertilizer with 8-10% nitrogen. Holly bushes like acidic soil. Some fertilizers are designed to help lower the pH of the soil as well as feed it - fertilizers specifically marketed for rhododendrons, azaleas, and camellias all fall into this category and work well. There are also fertilizers made for hollies, Holly-Tone is one such example. Feed your holly bush once in the spring and again in the fall. 7. Why is my holly shrub dropping leaves? Your holly shrub might be dropping leaves for a few reasons. If it's springtime, it may just be natural. Many hollies are evergreen, but they don't keep the same leaves forever. It's normal for some leaves to drop in the spring to make way for new growth. Another common reason is drought. Hollies like to be well watered. Try putting down several inches of mulch to keep the soil moist. The culprit might also be leaf scorch, which is caused by cold damage. Mulch heavily and water during warm spells in autumn to prevent this next winter. 8. How to treat holly leaf spots? Also known as holly tar spot, this problem can be caused by several different fungi. It starts as dark spots on leaves and leads to leaf drop. If left unchecked, it can cause serious defoliation. The best way to prevent leaf spot is by keeping the bush pruned to encourage good air circulation. If you catch an infection early, you can apply fungicide to hopefully stop its progress. If defoliation has already started, there isn't much you can do but wait. Fortunately, leaf spot won't kill the plant. It will just make it ugly until new leaf growth comes in next season. 9. How to care for holly in the winter? There's a reason holly bushes are associated with Christmas - they're at their prettiest in the winter time. For the most part, they are winter hardy, though they can benefit from some extra protection. In the fall, mulch heavily around the base and water generously on warm days to help keep the shrub moist through the winter. If your winter is exceptionally cold, or if your hollies are planted in an exposed spot that gets a lot of wind, you can wrap them in burlap to protect them from cold damage. 10. Can you grow a new holly from cuttings? Holly can be propagated from cuttings. The time to do this is when the bush is dormant. For deciduous hollies, this is when it has no leaves. For evergreens, it's in the coldest part of winter. Take a 6-inch (15 cm.) long cutting from the end of a stem of new growth. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone. For deciduous bushes, wrap several cuttings together. Bury them at least six inches (15 cm.) deep in the ground, with the cut ends facing up. They should sprout in the spring. Sink the ends of evergreen cuttings 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep in the ground and keep them well watered.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Plums are one of summer's great pleasures and growing them yourself gives easy access to the freshest and juiciest of the season. Plum trees usually thrive without much babying but they are prey to many pests and diseases that can affect foliage, stems or fruit. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about plum trees. 1. What to do for leaf curl on plum trees? Plum tree leaf curl is common on many species of this stone fruit. It is caused by aphid feeding behavior. The insect sucks plant sap and transmits a chemical that causes cells to malform, distorting the leaves. If you were to open a curled leaf, you would likely spot the culprits - tiny, shiny greenish-brown to greenish-yellow insects. They are most vigorous in spring where their feeding damage can encompass just a stem or many parts of the plant. Encourage predatory insects, spray with neem oil or hand pick the affected leaves and pests 2. Why is there no fruit on my plum tree? Age might be one concern. Plum trees don't fruit until they are between 3 and 6 years of age. Plums also need a co-pollinator to set fruit. Another plum needs to be near enough so that wind and insect pollination can take place. Temperatures are another possible cause. An inadequately cold winter or a late freeze that kills flowers can all prevent fruiting. Excess nitrogen can cause the formation of leaves over buds, reducing the fruit population. Finally, while it may seem obvious, pruning at the wrong time can sacrifice your fruit crop. Avoid terminal pruning and take stems back to their origination of growth to promote flowering. 3. Why is my plum tree oozing sap? Plum trees that leak sap could have an insect, disease, mechanical injury or even sunscald. Common insects like borers tunnel into the tree, creating a hole that will ooze sap. Cytospora canker or certain bacterial diseases cause lesions to form, which bleed sap. Watch where you trim with that weed wacker, as injuries to the trunk invite pest or disease problems and will ooze sap. A common problem on young trees, sunscald burns the stems or trunk of the plant, causing oozing scabby spots. Create adequate shade for trees in hot, dry areas or where sun reflected off snow will sear the plant material. 4. What makes plums shrivel up on the tree? French and Italian plums are susceptible to a disease called plum pocket. It can cause the loss of up to 50 percent of the fruit on a tree if left untreated. The culprit is a fungus that distorts foliage and leaves behind sunken, malformed fruit. Apply fungicides early in the season to prevent the disease or plant disease resistant cultivars. Another possible reason for shriveled fruit is brown rot plum disease. It is another fungus that produced mummified mature fruit. Other symptoms are cankers on twigs, spotted fruit, spores on fruit, brown wilted flowers that may ooze nectar. 5. How come the leaves are turning red on my plum tree? If you don't have a cherry plum, purple leaf plum or flowering species, which normally have richly burgundy leaves, then red leaves on your plum may indicate a disease. The culprits are almost endless, unfortunately, but the most common are rust, bacterial leaf spot, Coryneum blight, or Phytophthora root rot. Rust is a fungal issue where leaves develop yellow spots with red undersides. Bacterial leaf spot begins with dark circular spots that age to a reddish tone. Small red spots develop with Coryneum blight and Phytophthora causes reddish leaves, oozing sap and dark spots on bark. All of these may be combated with fungal sprays. 6. When to spray a plum tree for insects? Spraying your fruit trees is an essential part of maintenance. The spray schedule differs dependent upon the stage in which the tree is developing. Dormant oils should be sprayed at bud swell, in late winter to early spring. These are usually Bordeaux mixtures or horticultural oils. At budding time, just before the flowers open but when the buds are beginning to color, use an insecticidal soap to prevent pests. Once the flowers are open, do not apply insecticides, as they can kill important pollinators and cheat you of a fruit crop. 7. Can I grow plum tree seeds? Most commercial fruits are developed from a rootstock. This promotes certain traits and ensures a fruit that is the same as the parent plant in the scion. Plants that are not grafted in this way will grow just fine, but the appearance of the tree and the flavor of the fruit can be quite different in seeded plants. That being said, you can plant a plum pit with a little pre-preparation. Scrub off the pulp, dry the seed and put it in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. This will break the embryo's dormancy. You may also choose to plant the seed outdoors in fall where it will receive the cold treatment naturally. Place the pit 3 inches (8 cm.) deep, covered with soil. Indoor plants may be started in a mixture of vermiculite and potting soil, lightly moistened. Keep plants damp once sprouting occurs. 8. Leaves are dropping from my tree, why? Plants drop leaves for a variety of reasons. Cultural or environmental considerations are often the culprit. Low moisture or nutrients, inadequate light, low pH, or even weather damage may all cause leaf drop in plums out of season. If new leaves form and the plant re-foliates quickly, it usually causes no harmful effects to the tree. The problem can also stem from disease or pest infestations. The best way to tell is to look for other symptoms. Do you see bugs or are leaves ragged, have holes and exhibit signs of sucking or chewing? Are there any cankers, bolt holes, speckling or other symptoms of disease or pests? Good cultural care and an appropriate organic spray routine that begins in late winter or very early spring and continues until flowers open will usually set the plant right. 9. When should you pick plums? Your senses of touch and taste are the best gauge of the right time to pick fruit. Each variety of plum ripens at a different time of year and that varies by zone as well. If the fruit is slightly soft with just a little pressure from your fingers, it is likely ready. You can taste test one to determine if the amount of give is the correct amount for good flavor. Color is another way to judge when to harvest plums. Plums vary in color from deeply purple, to bluish violet, yellow and even red. Know what variety you have planted and what color the ripe fruit should be. Ripe fruits will also twist easily off the tree. The petiole will become fragile as the fruit matures and should easily pull off the plant. 10. When and how to prune a plum tree? Young trees need annual pruning to develop an open shape and good scaffold. New trees need to be cut to knee height with the cut just above a bud in early spring before bud break. In the second year, cut the main leader 18 inches (46 cm.) above a healthy bud. Leave three branches below this cut that radiate out evenly. Cut these back to 10 inches (25 cm.) from their origin. The idea is to promote a vase-like shape. Prune established trees in mid-summer. Remove weak, broken or diseased limbs as well as any that cross or grow straight up - water spouts. Head back lateral limbs as needed, but always cut back to a bud that is aimed in the direction you want new plant material to grow. Trim side shoots to six leaves from the originating wood to encourage fruiting. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Christmas is the big season for Norfolk Island pines, those cute little houseplants that look like small potted pine trees, with beautiful, scaly branches and scale-like leaves. But these plants make first rate container plants all year long. Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions about these trees, and we want to share our knowledge with you. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about Norfolk Island pines as well as our responses.

1. Why is my Norfolk Island pine dropping its branches? Norfolk Island pine trees regularly lose lower branches or branch tips as they grow, but if you see widespread damage on your plant, you probably need to rethink your cultural practices. Correcting issues like water, humidity and fertilizer will probably take care of the situation. Norfolk Island pines should only be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry. When this happens, water it generously. The plants also need a high level (about 50 percent) relative humidity. You can increase humidity by putting a basin of water filled with pebbles below your plant.

2. Can I plant my Norfolk pine outdoors? If you live in an area with chilly winters, you'll have to think of your little pine-like plant as a houseplant. While Norfolk Island pine trees can tolerate temperatures just below freezing, anything colder may kill them. They adjust well to life indoors.

3. Can I prune a Norfolk pine? Does a Norfolk Island pine need pruning? While you can snip off damaged or dying branches, don't consider topping a Norfolk pine. It will never regain the same shape afterwards. Limit the size of the tree by restricting its pot size and possibly root pruning it.

4. Why are branches curling up on Norfolk pine? Curling lower branches is par for the course on Norfolk pines, so don't worry about it. If it's upper branches that are curling, suspect either dry soil or spider mites. Check for mites by spraying water on the branches. It will allow you to see the webbing. You can get rid of mites by mixing a little liquid dish soap in a spray bottle of water and spraying the plant thoroughly every week for a month.

5. What causes yellow tips on Norfolk pine? Too much water or too little water can cause yellow tips on your plant. Check the drainage holes in the container to make sure the Norfolk pine isn't sitting with "wet feet." Too little water or humidity can also cause the foliage to turn yellow and then brown. Mist your plant with cool water daily to raise the humidity level. Be sure to check the soil regularly and water generously when the top inch is dry.

6. What type of soil for a Norfolk Island pine? Norfolk Island pine isn't picky about soil and accepts either acidic or alkaline. You can use a mix of potting soil, peat and sand. Excellent drainage is of top importance. You can fertilize your Norfolk pine in the spring and summer with a water soluble balanced fertilizer, but you do not need to fertilize in the fall or winter.

7. Why is my Norfolk pine turning brown and drying out? This is a rather common problem with these little trees. They require a higher humidity level than is normally found in a house to stay green and healthy. Place the tree on a saucer with water and pebbles to increase humidity. If necessary, bring in a humidifier.

8. How can I start new plants from Norfolk pines? Propagate your little tree by rooting soft cuttings. Cut a tender shoot that is a little longer than your palm, remove the lower leaves, then dip the cut end in rooting compound. Stick the cuttings in a container filled with moist potting mix. Cover it with a light plastic bag and leave it in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil moist. Check for rooting after a couple weeks by gently pulling on the stem. If you feel resistance, remove the plastic covering.

9. How to repot a Norfolk Island pine? When you repot, don't make a huge change in container size. Only go up another couple inches in pot size and pick a pot with adequate drainage holes.

10. How to care for a Norfolk Island pine indoors? The two most important things to remember when you have a Norfolk Island pine as a houseplant are hardiness and humidity needs. These plants will die outside if the weather drops below freezing. And they will only remain lush and green if they have adequate (50 percent) relative humidity.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Aloe plants are wonderful in their design and as a medicinal. One of the most common houseplants, aloes are usually trouble free but sometimes problems arise. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about aloe vera plants.

1. How do I water my aloe vera plant? Aloe plants are succulents and store extra moisture in their leaves for lean times. However, they do need regular water to keep their leaves plump and happy. Aloe plant care involves the use of well-draining potting medium and watering the plant thoroughly, at least until the water runs out of the drainage holes. Then sit back and wait for the soil to dry out again. Deep watering is key to flush soil of any salts and allow roots to obtain it. You will find you need to water more frequently in the heat of summer and about half that amount in winter when the plant is not actively growing.

2. Is it okay to remove aloe vera pups? Aloe vera plants replicate by producing those pups or offsets. It is perfectly acceptable to remove the pups. In fact, it will give the mother plant a bit more room in a crowded pot without having to disrupt her roots. Use a clean, sharp knife and cut away the pup. Hopefully, it has roots, but if it doesn't allow the pup to callus for a week on the cut end. Then insert it into a soilless medium such as sand or perlite. Moisten the medium lightly and wait for root growth. When the pup has rooted, transplant to well-draining succulent soil and grow as usual.

3. Can you grow an aloe plant from a cutting? The quickest method of propagation for an aloe is by removing the pups. However, many succulents root quickly from leaf or stem cuttings. Aloe has such a high moisture content that it is more likely the cutting will rot before it sends out roots. To solve this problem, try letting the cut end dry out for several days and callusing over. Then insert the callused end into soilless potting mix. Keep the mixture on the dry side and check in a few weeks. If roots have formed, remove the baby plant and place it in a good succulent mixture.

4. How do you prune an aloe vera or harvest leaves for use? Aloes really are amazing plants. They will heal themselves when a leaf is removed. Depending upon the size you require, take a tip or the whole leaf. Use a clean knife or scissors to prevent passing disease into the plant. In just a few hours, the plant's sap will solidify and harden around the wound. Within a handful of days, that area will callus and dry, preventing insect or disease intrusion. Removing leaves will not hurt the plant, just don't remove more than 1/3 of them at a time when harvesting the leaves for use.

5. When should downsize an aloe plant? When an aloe gets too big for its container or gardening space, it is time to either divide the plant or remove some of the pups to give the mother plant some more room. Removing pups is easy with a clean, sharp knife and each pup may be potted up for individual plants. The best time to remove pups is when the plant is dormant, in fall or early spring. Reducing the size is not absolutely necessary unless your plant is looking unhealthy. As with most succulents, aloe prefers a crowded container.

6. What causes aloe to turn brown and wilt? In many cases, such a problem is caused by overwatering. Water deeply, infrequently and wait until the soil is evenly dry before irrigating anew. Ensure the soil in your container is made for succulents or make your own. Equal parts of sand, potting soil and perlite allow any extra moisture to percolate through easily. The problem may also be sunburn. The plant needs warmth and sunlight, but a southern window can actually burn the leaves. Try moving it to a bright location in the west of the home.

7. Can you plant aloe vera outdoors? Aloes grow in nature outdoors but whether yours will thrive in your region depends upon the zone. The plants are adapted to USDA zones 8 to 10. In zone 11, the plant may also thrive but only if it gets shelter in the hottest part of the day. Growers in all other zones can put their plants outdoors in summer and bring them in for fall and winter. If you live in a warm region and wish to plant your aloe outside, make sure the soil in the area drains well.

8. How much light does an aloe vera need? Aloe plants definitely need sunlight but how much is optimal? 8 hours of full sun makes for a happy plant. If the plant is indoors, place it in a western or eastern facing window sill. If it is too large for the sill, place the plant no more than 5 feet (1.52 m.) from a bright window. Be wary of southern facing windows, as the plant can burn. If you live in a dreary region or do not have access to an east or west window, you may have to supplement the lighting with artificial plant lights.

9. Why is my aloe vera falling over? The most likely reason for a floppy aloe is that the vegetation at the top is too heavy for a relatively small root ball. Aloes don't have an extensive root system. A healthy plant with lots of moisture laden leaves is a heavy burden. Either remove some of the pups from the plant to release some of the strain on the root ball or use stakes to hold the plant upright. Make sure the root ball is just under the soil enough that the lowest leaves touch the surface of the soil.

10. How do you transplant aloes and when should you do this? Aloe roots are more broad than deep, so the first cuts into soil will be the most important. For huge outdoor plants, start a foot (.30 m.) away from the longest leaves and cut down another foot. Gently, mostly by feel, inch in towards the center of the plant as you continue to dig downward. Retain as much root as possible. It may be best to water the soil well prior to digging to help it loosen. Plant the aloe in a hole as large as that from which it was dug. Water the new area well after replanting. For container plants, transplant when the aloe has outgrown its pot and has no new space to put out more foliage or if the plant is showing signs of stress. They prefer to be pot-bound but need enough space for growth and to retain some moisture in soil. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Many of these queries involve composting. Whether you're making your own compost or compost tea, or simply buying it, gardeners have lots of questions. Here are 10 of the most commonly asked questions regarding compost.

How do I start a compost pile?

When composting, first choose an open, level area with good drainage in partial sun to shade. Also, consider the size of your compost pile; an ideal size is 3 feet high (just under a meter) and no taller than 5 feet (1.5 m). Start the pile directly on the soil or on a wood pallet if you prefer. Start layering your green and brown organic materials beginning with a layer of bulky browns, like twigs, followed by a green layer such as grass clippings. Keep alternating in 4- to 6-inch layers. Lightly water each layer as it is added. The compost pile should be moist but not sodden. Monitor the moisture level and water as needed, turning the pile every so often.

Why does compost turn into balls instead of nice and crumbly?

Balled up compost commonly occurs when using a tumbler. It isn't anything to worry about. The balls of compost usually break down on their own or you can crumble them yourself. All it means is that there is too much moisture in the tumbler, either because you added water or there's a lot of moist, green material. When composting the next batch, add more brown material, such as dry leaves or cardboard. The same would be true for balled up compost in a pile. Turn the pile more frequently to aerate it and add in more brown material.

Why are there flies in my compost and how do I get rid of them?

The flies in compost are attracted to the organic material in the pile, specifically the food scraps. If the flies are a nuisance, the organic material needs to be buried under brown or carbon material, such as brown leaves or cardboard. If you keep about a foot of brown material atop the food scraps, the flies won't be interested anymore. Chances are good that if you have a fly problem, you also have an odor problem. This means the compost pile isn't heating up enough to break down the organic material rapidly. Adjust the pile so it has a ratio of 4:1, brown (carbon) to greens (nitrogen).

Are coffee grinds good for compost?

Yes, coffee grounds are great in compost. They help add nitrogen into the compost pile. You can add both coffee grounds and filters to the pile; just remember that they are considered green material and need to be balanced with brown compost material. The ratio for brown or carbon material to green or nitrogen material should be about 4:1. Coffee grounds can also be worked directly into the soil, but they will not immediately add nitrogen as they do to compost. They will, however, improve drainage, soil aeration and water retention.

Should you remove the inner lining when composting eggshells?

No, there is no reason to remove the lining from the eggshells. Introducing the entirety of the eggshells in compost adds calcium to the finished compost product, an important nutrient that helps build cell walls in plants. You may, however, want to wash the eggshells before adding them to the compost pile to reduce the potential of disease from raw eggs and also so they don't attract the attention of animals. Another good idea is to break the eggshells into smaller pieces so they degrade more rapidly. This isn't necessary, but whole eggshells will take some time to break down.

Can I safely use wood ashes in compost?

Absolutely! Putting wood ash into the compost pile adds valuable nutrients such as potassium, lime, and other trace elements necessary to healthy plant growth. Also, compost piles may become a bit acidic and wood ash, alkaline in nature, can offset this. One caveat, however, don't use ash from charcoal grills. The charcoal has been treated with chemicals that may not break down in compost. These harmful chemicals may then be passed onto plants. Use wood fireplace or campfire ashes only.

What is the ratio for making manure/compost tea?

Similar to compost tea, manure tea can be used each time you water your plants or every so often. It is, however, extremely important to dilute the tea prior to use so it doesn't burn the plants. Be sure to use only well cured manure and steep 5 parts water to 1 part manure. Allow the manure tea too steep for a week or two. Once the tea has steeped and you are ready to use it, dilute 1 cup of tea with 1 gallon of water (240 ml with 3.8 L).

How do you store compost?

Compost is alive with microbiotic bacteria and other organisms that need food, moisture and aeration to stay alive. In order to store the compost for any length of time, it needs to be supplied with these three requirements. Where you store the compost depends on how much room you have, but the easiest way is to store it in an out of the way area in the yard, covered with plastic to keep it protected. Compost can also be stored in a plastic container or trash bin, just be sure to add a bit of water every few months to keep it moist. Don't add too much water or the compost will mold. Just add enough to keep it slightly damp and all those beneficial organisms happy.

Can compost have E. Coli in it?

There is some concern regarding composting of meat or even some manure that may be infected with E. coli or other potentially dangerous bacteria. That's why these items are generally not recommended for use. Most commercially produced compost should be heated enough to kill off any harmful pathogens. If you are making your own compost, be sure that its internal temperature remains 90-140 F. (32-60 C.). When compost is "cooking" properly, it will not only destroy seeds and weeds, but kill off most harmful bacteria. A hot compost pile will also break down more rapidly.

What is green and brown compost?

Both brown and green materials are needed to "feed" a compost pile. Brown material includes dry leaves, sawdust, straw and newspaper and is brown in color, consisting of dry or woody plant material. Green material is wet or freshly cut or clipped material such as grass clippings, weeds, coffee grounds, manure or food scraps. Brown materials add bulk and help to aerate the compost and are an important source of carbon. Green materials add nitrogen into the pile as well as other nutrients necessary for healthy compost. It's important to have a ratio of about 4:1 brown (carbon) to green (nitrogen). A good ratio of brown to green material will allow the pile to heat up enough to kill seeds, weeds, and harmful bacteria as well as to facilitate the rapid breaking down of the material into compost. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Many people have dogwoods growing in the landscape, and many people have questions about their care. You've got questions, we've got answers. Here at Gardening Know How our goal is to try to provide answers to all of the inquiries you send our way. In this article, you'll find the 10 most commonly asked questions about growing dogwood trees in the landscape, complete with our best answers. 1. Why won't my dogwood tree flower? Dogwood trees have slender, graceful branches, but most gardeners invite them into their yards for the eye-catching spring flower display. If your tree remains flowerless, check the care you are giving it. Dogwoods need sun and adequate irrigation, so an absence of either can preclude flowers. The most common issue involves fertilizer. Dogwoods planted on lawns absorb lawn fertilizer and all that extra nitrogen keeps the leaves growing at the expense of the blossoms. 2. How to prune a dogwood tree? Dogwood trees are naturally graceful and attractive, so you probably won't want to trim off too much. And don't prune dogwoods in spring, since it can attract borer insects. In early winter, trim back dead, damaged or crossing branches. Remove suckers and enough lower branches to provide access, if desired. You can also remove undersized twigs to open up the canopy and allow air and sunshine in. 3. Can you grow dogwoods from seed? You can easily grow dogwoods from seeds collected from native trees. Take the seeds in late fall and soak them a few days to soften the pulp, then remove it by rubbing the seed against a fine wire screen. Plant the seeds that don't float to the top of the water. Insert them into a growing medium of peat and sand, about 0.5 inch deep and 1 inch apart. The seeds germinate in spring and you'll want to keep them watered through the growing season. Transplant in their first or second winter. 4. How to fertilize a dogwood tree? If your soil is not acidic, you can use an acid lover's fertilizer like that used for rhododendron. Use a ratio of 12-4-8 or 16-4-8. Don't fertilize dogwood trees the first year, but once they are taller than you are, use ¼ cup of fertilizer in early spring, then feed again three months later. Dig in the granular fertilizer around the edges of the root zone then water well. Give mature trees ½ cup per inch of trunk. 5. When do you transplant a dogwood tree? If you need to move your dogwood tree, you'll want to do it while the tree is dormant, at some point between the time the leaves fall and bud break. Wait until the soil is workable in spring. Transplanting when the sap is running risks root injury or rot. 6. What to do about dogwoods dripping sap? One of the ways that dogwoods react to stress is by dripping sap. Try to figure out what is causing the tree stress. Look particularly carefully for pests, especially at branch junctions. Are you giving it adequate fertilizer? It may just be that the tree is reaching the end of its life. Dogwoods only live 10-15 years. 7. What to do when leaves of dogwood are dropping? If dogwood leaves are dropping in fall, it's perfectly normal. The tree is deciduous. If your tree's leaves are falling during growing season, it may be water stressed. Be sure it's getting at least 2 inches (5 cm.) of water every week. It may also have a fungus that is killing the leaves. Treat the tree with a fungicide just in case. 8. Why is my dogwood not leafing out? A tree with no leaves in spring is a tree that is suffering from distress. The first thing you should do is check the water the tree is getting. Failure to leaf out often indicates water stress. The tree needs a couple of inches (5 cm.) of water every week. You should also remove all grass and weeds in the area that may be competing for water and nutrients. If this doesn't help, call in a tree expert to help you help the tree. 9. Can you grow dogwood trees in containers? If your container is big enough to give the tree roots elbow room, your dogwood should be happy enough in a container. Keep in mind that container grown dogwoods will need additional watering and may need to be root pruned to prevent their growth from becoming too much to handle. 10. How to take cuttings from a dogwood tree? It's fun to grow new dogwood trees from cuttings. Take the cuttings in spring as the tree finishes blooming. Make the cuttings between 3 to 5 inches (5-13 cm.) long. Remove the bottom leaves and cut the others in half. Dip the bottom end of the cutting in growth hormone then plant it in a small pot of sand and perlite. Keep the medium moist by misting the leaves and keeping the entire pot in a plastic bag. Roots should appear within six weeks. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. Of these questions include blueberry plants. Here are some of the most popular questions about blueberry bushes people have when rowing them in the landscape.

1. How and when to prune blueberry plants?
Prune blueberries every year in late winter or early spring when the branches have buds, but after danger of hard freeze has passed. Begin by removing all dead and damaged growth, plus canes that cross or rub against other canes. Prune canes that may inhibit air circulation in the middle of the bush, then remove the two oldest canes every year. If you aren't sure which canes to remove annually, prune those that have no buds and/or unproductive canes that haven't produced growth in past seasons.

2. What fertilizer is needed for blueberry shrubs?
If possible, have your soil tested every few years to determine the pH level, as optimum pH for blueberries is 4.5 to 5.0. If the pH level is too high, you may need to adjust it by incorporating sulfur or certain organic materials. Fertilize your bushes with a product formulated for blueberries, azaleas, rhododendrons or other acid-loving plants, or use a well-balanced fertilizer with a ratio such as 10-5-5 when growth begins in early spring and again after harvest. Spread the fertilizer evenly around the plant, and then water in well.

3. No flowers? / Do blueberries have a resting year?
If your blueberries have always bloomed in the past, make sure a nearby tree hasn't grown to the point that it shades the blueberry bush. Although a few hours of light shade is okay, blueberries won't bloom without several hours of direct sunlight. Prune blueberry bushes in late winter or early spring and keep in mind that later pruning may remove tiny buds. Remove older canes every year, as three- to six-year-old canes tend to be most productive while older canes get weaker and less productive with age. Be sure to fertilize and water regularly.

4. How to get sweeter blueberries?
Sour blueberries is a common complaint. Weather may be a factor, as blueberries tend to be sweeter in dry years. Experts at a local nursery can tell you which blueberries are best for your climate. Ask for sweet blueberries, as some varieties are naturally tart. Be careful about purchasing bushes at big box stores because plants are often shipped long distances and may not be ideal for local growing conditions. Perform a soil test to ensure your soil pH is between 4.5 and 5.0, then take steps to adjust, if necessary. Lastly, be sure the berries are fully ripe before picking.

5. Can I transplant my blueberry plants and, if so, when?
Transplant blueberries during the dormant season, typically between November and March in most climates. Transplanting in cool weather provides time for the roots to establish before the arrival of warm weather, but never transplant a blueberry plant during a hard freeze. If you live in a climate with very harsh winters, transplanting in spring is safer for the bush. Mulch the plant well after transplanting, but leave a span around the plant and don't allow mulch to mound against the stem.

6. Why don't my blueberry plants produce berries?
There are a number of possible reasons why blueberries aren't producing, but improper soil pH is at the top of the list. Blueberries require acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 or lower. Test your soil and amend with aluminum sulfate or elemental sulfur if the pH is too high. There's also a possibility your bushes aren't being pollinated. Although most types are self-fruitful, it helps to have another bush within about 100 feet. Be sure the plants get several hours of full sunlight and that the soil drains well as blueberries don't like wet feet.

7. Can I grow blueberries in a container?
Blueberries, especially dwarf varieties, are well suited for containers. Although you can plant in a container with an 18-inch (45 cm.) diameter, you'll eventually need to move the bush to something larger, like a whiskey barrel. Fill the container with a potting mix such as half peat moss and half bark to provide the proper acidic pH level, and never use garden soil in containers. Be sure to water frequently, as soil in containers dries quickly. Bury the container in the ground in mid-autumn, then add a generous layer of mulch, or move the blueberry bush into an unheated garage.

8. What causes blueberries to shrivel or drop off?
Drought is frequently the cause when blueberries shrivel and drop off. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the first couple of years. Provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week, increasing to 4 inches (10 cm.) when berries are ripening. If the berries look pinkish-gray and drop just before harvest, they may be infected with a fungal disease known as mummy berry. The most important thing is to clean up all dropped berries; otherwise, they overwinter and sprout tiny mushrooms capable of producing millions of spores that spread disease to neighboring plants. Mummy berry is difficult to manage, but fungicides may help.

9. Can you propagate blueberries from cuttings?
Blueberries are easy to propagate. Remove a 6-inch (15 cm.) stems from a healthy plant in summer, when stems are still flexible. Remove the leaves from the lower half of the stem, then plant it in a small pot filled with peat moss and coarse sand. Place the pot in a plastic bag and put it in indirect light. Water as needed to keep the potting mix moist, but open the bag for a couple of hours if you notice condensation. When roots appear, usually in two to three months, move the bush into a slightly larger container filled with acidic potting mixture. Place the container in light shade, then transplant into the garden in autumn.

10. How to care for blueberries in the winter?
Blueberries are tough plants once established and many will tolerate temperatures of -20 F. (-29 C). Never fertilize after July, as tender new growth is easily nipped by light frost. Water regularly throughout autumn; well hydrated plants are better able to tolerate cold. Spread 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) of mulch around the plant after the first freeze to protect the plant from repeated freezing and thawing, but be sure to remove mulch in early spring. If the plant is new or you live in an extremely cold climate, you may want to cover the entire bush with burlap as part of your blueberry winter care.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. For example, growing houseplants successfully means providing the best possible care. But even with great care, problems can and do arise from time to time. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about houseplant problems. 1. Why are my plant leaves turning yellow? Yellowing of leaves is one of the most common and hardest to solve problems when it comes to houseplants. This is because it's a symptom of lots of common houseplant complaints. The main culprits are usually not enough or too much light, or not enough or too much water. Try to assess if you're giving your plant too much or too little of something - is the soil almost always wet or almost always dry? You're probably over or under watering. Is the plant in a window that gets bright afternoon sun or tucked in a corner with no direct sun? It's probably getting too much or too little light. Try adjusting in a way that makes sense, and wait to see if the plant perks up. 2. How do you successfully overwinter plant indoors? Successful overwintering of houseplants really depends upon the type of plant you're dealing with. Some plants need to go dormant over the winter - this means possibly pruning it back and placing it somewhere dark and cool, like a basement or garage. Some other plants keep growing and need light throughout the winter - this means placing it by a bright window or even supplementing with grow lights. Plants often need less water indoors during winter, but they sometimes suffer from low humidity. You'll want to cut back on your watering routine but might want to mist the plant occasionally, or keep it above a dish of water. 3. Houseplant leaves are dropping. Why? Leaf drop on houseplants is another problem that can point to several different issues. One common culprit is a sudden change in environment. This includes temperature, light, and water, and it's often unavoidable when a plant is first brought indoors for the winter. If your plant drops leaves soon after it makes the move inside, don't panic. It's just adjusting and should recover. Some other causes include pests (like mealybugs, scale, and spider mites), over or underwatering, and lack of nutrients. Study your plant to see if anything has changed that might have caused the leaf drop. 4. What is the white furry stuff on plant? You're probably looking at an infestation of mealybugs or scale insects - they can look pretty similar. First, move your plant away from all of its neighbors to keep the infestation from spreading. Next, treat the plant with Neem oil. Neem oil is organic and safe for both plants and pets. Spray both sides of all the leaves once a week until the infestation goes away. You may want to lightly treat the plants that were next to the infested one, just in case any of the bugs travelled unnoticed. 5. What to do for sticky leaves on plants? Are the leaves of your houseplant sticky and shiny? Chances are the substance you're looking at is honeydew. Honeydew is a sign of an infestation of aphids, mealybugs, or scale insects. It's actually their"¦ excrement. The best way to get rid of these insects (and the stuff they leave behind) is with weekly sprayings of Neem oil, both on the leaves and in the soil. Ants often accompany honeydew - they love to eat the stuff. If you kill the bugs making the honeydew, the ants should go away, too. 6. What type of soil should I use for repotting? Most plants will be perfectly happy growing in regular potting soil. Depending upon the plant, you may want to add some organic matter, like compost, for extra nutrients and water retention, or some grit like sand or perlite for extra fast drainage. The stuff marketed as "garden soil" should be avoided, because it's very dense and doesn't drain well. This can result in wet, rotten roots for container plants. You should also avoid soil dug straight out of the ground, as it will also drain slowly and may harbor parasites and diseases you don't want to bring into your house. 7. Why do plant leaves turn brown? If your houseplant's leaves are turning brown, especially around the edges, then it's probably a sign of stress, most likely to do with not getting enough water. This could be due to a number of reasons. One likely cause is that the plant is root bound and the roots aren't able to take up enough water. This means it needs to be repotted. It's also possible that the plant isn't being watered enough, or that the soil isn't holding water well. The roots may also be suffering from tip burn due to too many salts in the soil (this can be fixed by flushing the pot with lots of water). 8. When do you water houseplants? The answer to this one really depends upon the specific plant you're growing. Succulents and cacti, for example, should be allowed to dry out between waterings. As a rule, however, most houseplants should not be allowed to dry out completely. That being said, the most common cause of houseplant death is overwatering, which is why watering properly is important. The surface of the soil is the part that dries out first, so testing it for dryness isn't always reliable. Try tapping on the side of the pot - if it sounds dull, there's probably still moisture in there. If it sounds hollow, it's probably dry. 9. How to eliminate mushrooms in houseplants? Mushrooms in houseplants are usually introduced as spores in contaminated potting mixes, but they can drift in through the air, too. They tend to grow in humid, moist conditions. To get rid of them, first remove the caps to keep more spores from spreading. If you can, scrape away and replace the top two inches of soil. Drench the remaining soil with fungicide - Neem oil is an effective and safe choice, especially if you have pets. Replacing all the soil and moving the plant to less humid conditions will also help. Getting rid of mushrooms is hard, but thankfully they're not usually harmful. 10. What causes water to drop from houseplant leaves? There's a chance that this is honeydew and a sign of pest infestation (see questions 4 and 5). It's more likely, however, that you're looking at guttation, a perfectly natural and harmless plant activity. To draw up nutrients and water through their roots, plants create a vacuum by allowing moisture to evaporate out of tiny holes in their leaves called stomata. When the air is humid, especially at night, less moisture evaporates. Instead, it forms tiny drops of condensation over the stomata on the tips of the leaves. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Calla lilies add interest and tropical flair to both indoor and outdoor gardens, but these beautiful flowers are not without their share of troubles. Gardening Know How tries to provide the best information possible not only for growing healthy plants like this, but also to answer whatever gardening questions you may have along the way.

Here are the top questions about calla lilies.

1) How to care for potted calla lily plants? Potted calla lilies are often given as gifts. If you've received a calla lily and do not live in a warm enough climate to plant it outdoors, it will need a little extra care to grow well indoors.

Calla lily care, indoors or out, is pretty much the same - they need a lot of light. Place indoor calla lilies in a location where they will receive plenty of sunlight but are protected from drafts. Indoor callas also need a lot of water and regular feeding. Water thoroughly whenever the top layer of soil looks dry or the plant looks limp. Fertilizer indoor calla lilies once a month with a balanced general-purpose fertilizer. Indoor plants will also need a rest period to grow and bloom properly. To simulate dormancy, stop watering your potted calla after it blooms, allow it to die back, then place it in a cool (but not cold), dark location for two months. After its rest, return it to a location with bright light and water it regularly.

2) Why are calla lily blossoms turning green? Calla lily blooms that turn green after flowering for a while is a common and natural condition. As calla flowers mature, the plant's energy is focused on seed production. As the plant sets seeds, the flowers and other parts of the plant will die back from lack of energy and nutrients.

Simply deadhead spent blooms so energy is not wasted on seed production. After blooming, your calla lily will require a rest period. Outdoor plants will do this naturally, but indoor plants may require a mock dormancy period.

3) Why are calla lily leaves turning yellow? Yellowing leaves on any plant is usually a sign of nutrient deficiencies or improper watering habits. If your calla lily leaves are yellowing, first consider the timing. If the plant has just finished blooming, it could just be taking a natural rest period; simply cut it back and allow it to go dormant.

Also consider your fertilizing routine. Calla lilies should be fed once a month with a balanced general purpose fertilizer. They do not require feeding while dormant, but if you are not fertilizing them regularly the rest of the time, you should start. Callas also require full sun. Indoor plants can yellow from insufficient light. Indoor and outdoor calla lilies require regular watering, but these plants are pretty good at letting you know when they are thirsty by looking limp. Always water calla lilies deeply, as just a little spritz now and again won't do.

4) Why is my calla lily plant drooping? The most common reason for a drooping calla lily is lack of water. Calla lilies have high water needs. Always water outdoor calla lilies deeply and thoroughly when you water them. A nice long, slow trickle with a soaker hose allows the plant to soak up more of the water than a drenching blast.

Indoor calla lilies should be watered deeply whenever the top layer of soil looks dry. Again, a slow watering works best, allowing water to seep out from the pot's drainage holes. Calla lilies can also get droopy when they go into dormancy. This is just a natural and necessary process for the plant.

5) How to care for calla lily in winter? Calla lilies are not cold-hardy, and generally only thrive year round in U.S. zones 8 or above. If you live in zone 8 or above, the only winter care required for callas is to stop watering them so they can go dormant. You can protect them from low temperatures with a nice heap of mulch over the root zone. In zones 7 or lower, you will have to grow calla lilies as a container plant or as tropical bulbs, like canna or elephant ear. If container grown, move the plant indoors and stop watering. Give it a dormancy period in a cool, dark location for about two months in winter. Treated as other tropical bulbs, dig up the rhizomes in fall, cut off any foliage and let them dry out. Store the bulbs through winter in a dark, dry location where temperatures stay between 50-55 degrees F. (10-13 C.).

6) How to make a calla lily bloom? If an indoor calla lily no longer blooms or fails to at all, it could be lacking nutrients or it could simply need a rest period to store up new energy and regenerate.

You can simulate a dormancy period in winter by not watering your calla lily and storing it in a cool, dark location for about two months. Outdoor calla lilies will die back naturally and go dormant when they need to. If your calla lilies have properly rested but still refuse to bloom, they could be lacking phosphorus. Try a bloom-boosting fertilizer or bone meal to balance its nutrient needs. Then fertilize it regularly with a well-balanced fertilizer.

7) When and how to divide calla lilies? Calla lilies are rhizomatous plants, which makes them very easy to divide.

If calla lilies are not hardy in your zone but you grow them as annual bulbs, in fall when your calla lily begins to rest for winter, dig up the rhizomes and cut back any foliage still left on the plant. Let the rhizomes dry out and store them in a dark, cool, dry place throughout winter. In spring, when you take them out to plant them, simply cut apart any young rhizomes growing off of older ones and plant the individual pieces. If calla lilies are hardy in your area, simply dig the plant up in early spring, while it is still dormant. With a clean, sharp knife, cut apart new rhizome growth and plant them individually.

8) What causes calla lily blooms not to open? If calla lilies are not blooming properly, they could need a boost of phosphorous. You can give them a little extra phosphorus by adding bone meal or feeding them with a bloom boosting fertilizer. A bloom boosting fertilizer will have a higher middle number in its NPK ratio; for example, 5-15-5. It is especially important that fertilizer for blooms has very little nitrogen in it, as nitrogen promotes green, leafy growth rather than blossoms. To start your calla lily out with healthy blooms, feed it bone meal each spring.

9) What is growing inside my spent calla lily flower? As calla lily flowers mature and fade, they form seed pods. If you are seeing new growth in a spent calla lily flower, it is most likely this seed pod. You can simply deadhead these spent flowers, sending the plant's energy to its foliage and rhizomes to create new flowers.

If you'd like to try your hand at growing calla lilies from seed, you can leave the seed pods on the plant until they mature and dry out. Propagating calla lilies from seed is a very slow going process that requires a lot of patience; therefore, it is easiest and quickest to propagate them by divisions.

10) Why are the leaves on calla lily dripping liquid? When calla lilies are over-watered, they may ooze or transpire excessive liquid. This is called guttation. Calla lilies should only be watered as needed.

To check if a calla lily needs water, stick your fingertip in the soil. If it feels dry, then water it thoroughly; if it feels wet, do not water it until the soil dries out.

Calla lilies are also good at letting you know when they want water by going limp. Oozing on plants can also be a sign of pest or disease. If it seems that only one wounded looking area of your calla lily is oozing, I suggest snipping that infected part off, disposing of it and treating the whole plant with neem oil.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

The bird of paradise is thought to be one of the most beautiful of exotic flowers, so it can be disheartening to have problems come up while growing the plant, like non-blooming. This is why Gardening Know How came to be - a desire to help fellow gardeners in their time of need, and that includes answering the gardening questions that plaque us all. Here are the top questions about bird of paradise that many gardeners face. 1) How to get blooms on bird of paradise plants? Young bird of paradise plants can take 4-10 years to bloom, depending on propagation method. Newly potted or transplanted bird of paradise may also not bloom for a couple years. Container grown plants bloom best when they are slightly pot bound. To ensure blooms on bird of paradise plants, fertilize them every other week with a general purpose, balanced fertilizer during the growing season, and at least once every other month during winter. Bird of paradise can also fail to bloom with insufficient light. For best growth and flowering, grow bird of paradise in a site with at least 4-6 hours of sun each day. 2) How and when to transplant a bird of paradise? Bird of paradise plants do not like to be moved once established. When grown in a container, they seem happiest and bloom best when they are slightly pot bound. However, if the roots are coming out of the pot, it is probably time to consider repotting or division. Sometimes, outdoor bird of paradise plants need to be transplanted to a new location. This is best done in spring or early summer. To avoid transplant shock, water the plant thoroughly 24 hours before transplanting. Then gently dig around the plant exposing its roots to see exactly what you're working with. Pre-dig a hole the new site large enough to accommodate its root structure. Dig up as much of the plant's roots as possible to make the transition less stressful. Pruning larger plants back prior to moving may also help. Once transplanted, water deeply with a mixture of water and rooting fertilizer, but then do not give it any other fertilizer for several weeks and allow it to dry out for about a week before watering it deeply a second time. Be aware that any transplanting, repotting or division may cause the plant to not bloom for a couple years. 3) Why is my bird of paradise plant turning yellow? There are several reasons the foliage of bird of paradise plant might yellow. It could be a sign of insufficient watering, either too much or too little. Bird of paradise plants do not like soggy soil. Even when they are newly planted, they need to sufficiently dry out between waterings. However, in times of extreme heat and/or drought, even well-established plants need to be watered deeply to ensure proper growth. Another reason a bird of paradise plant may yellow is from insufficient light. Bird of paradise plants need at least 4-6 hours of sunlight each day. If the rest of your landscape is overgrown and shading out your plant or if it's in a dark corner of the home, you may have to move it to a sunnier location. Keep in mind newly transplanted or repotted plants may yellow in response to stress but normally this rights itself given time to adjust to the move. If you have ruled out all these possibilities for why your bird of paradise plant is yellowing, it could simply be lacking proper fertilization. Using a general purpose fertilizer, fertilize your bird of paradise plant once a week. 4) Can you grow bird of paradise from seed? The easiest and quickest way to propagate bird of paradise plants is from divisions, but with extra work and a lot of patience, you can grow bird of paradise from seed. To do this, soak seeds in water for at least three days, or scarify them by scratching or nicking the seed casing with a file. Even with soaking or scarification, bird of paradise seeds can take up to a year to germinate. Plant seeds in a well-draining potting mix, an inch deep, in a location where temperatures will stay consistently around 80-85 degrees F. (27-29 C.). It may be necessary to use a seedling heat mat or heat lamps to control temperature. Keep the soil moist. You can help retain moisture and humidity by covering seed trays with clear plastic. 5) How to fertilize a bird of paradise plant? Bird of paradise plants are heavy feeders. To keep your plant looking and growing its best, feed it with a general purpose, well balanced fertilizer every other week during the growing season. Use a 10-10-10, 15-15-15, or 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer for these biweekly feeding, or a slow release fertilizer every three months. Bird of paradise plants go through a sort of dormancy period in winter, where little growth will happen. During this dormancy, only fertilize once every other month. 6) Why don't bird of paradise flowers open? Flowers of bird of paradise can have problems reaching their full potential for a few different reasons. Lack of light can cause bird of paradise plants to have few or no flowers. If trees and other plants have grown around your and are casting too much shade, either trim away branches to let more light in or transplant your bird of paradise to a sunnier location. Lack of nutrients can also cause bird of paradise plants to not flower properly. Feed bird of paradise once every other week with a well-balanced general purpose fertilizer during the blooming season. If you do feed your bird of paradise regularly but its flowers are still sparse, little or not opening, give the plant a phosphate boost by feeding it some bone meal. Another possibility is thrips, a small pest that attacks the base of flowers or new growth. They will kill the flowers before they are able to open. A treatment of a general pesticide will clear them up. 7) What causes leaves to curl on bird of paradise? Curling of leaf tips on many different plants often indicates a problem with watering. If your bird of paradise leaves are curling, you need to figure out whether it's getting too much water or too little. Bird of paradise plants do not tolerate wet feet and are susceptible to root and crown rot in wet locations. Dig a little around the plant crown and root zone to inspect for signs of rot, like brown, mushy stems or roots. If there are signs of too much moisture, you may have to dig up the plant and amend the soil or transplant to a drier location. 8) How to divide bird of paradise plants? Bird of paradise plants do not need to be divided very often. In fact, any transplanting or dividing you do to a bird of paradise can cause it to not bloom for a couple years. Still, sometimes it is necessary to sacrifice the blooms. Dividing bird of paradise is similar to dividing any perennial plant. First dig up the plant, getting as much of the root system as you can. Remove all excess dirt from the roots and crown. With a sharp, sterile knife, cut apart your divisions just as you would when dividing a hosta. Make sure each division has a nice section of root attached. Plant new divisions immediately and water them using water and a rooting fertilizer. Then allow the new plants about a week to dry out before watering again. Bird of paradise roots like to be on the drier side as they establish. 9) What to do with spent blooms on bird of paradise? Also, how do you prune the plant? To keep a bird of paradise plant looking its best and blooming longer, deadhead spent blooms. These spent blooms should be snipped off with sharp, clean pruners just below the flower where the bloom has died. Also, keep in mind that bird of paradise makes an excellent cut flower for vases or floral arrangements. When the flowers have formed and are just about to open, you can cut the flower stem back close to the ground for use as a cut flower. As for pruning of bird of paradise, this depends on the type you're growing. Strelizia should be pruned in spring, cutting away faded blooms and flower stalks. Red BOP are pruned in late winter to early spring to about 6-12 inches from the ground. Yellow and Mexican varieties are pruned sparingly, also in late winter to early spring, cutting away old blooms and branches. 10) How treat bird of paradise pests? Neem oil is a gardener's best friend. It kills insect pests and helps with fungal diseases too, while leaving no lasting chemical residue on the plants or soil. If your bird of paradise plant is experiencing a pest problem, thoroughly spray all the aerial parts of the plant with neem oil. Be sure to get all parts of the plant so the insects have no place to hide. It may be necessary to reapply in two-week increments to be certain any pest or disease has been eliminated. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Lilacs are old-fashioned favorites in the landscape well known for their wonderful scents, but even they can have problems from time to time. Gardening Know How wants to help avoid these issues, or at the very least amend them, by providing the best information possible when it comes to growing and caring for these plants in the garden - and that includes answering the top questions about lilacs in the home landscape.

1) Why isn't my lilac blooming?

When your lilac shrub isn't blooming, any of a number of things could have caused the problem. Lilacs need lots of sun, and if no flowers appear, they may need more light. If you give your lilacs a hard pruning, they will probably not bloom for a year or two. Also, pruning in late summer removes buds and prevents flowering. Too much nitrogen fertilizer can prevent lilacs from flowering, but so can root restriction. Sometimes your plant is old and needs a good pruning to produce younger more productive wood. Or it could be pests or just a late freeze.

2) How to prune a lilac bush?

Deadhead spent flowers by cutting close to the stems - it encourages another round of flowers. For serious pruning, use clippers, not scissors. Remove entire stems, not just the overgrown stem tips. Take out about a third of the lilac branches. Remove ground shoots, but also trim out inner branches to allow light and air to pass through the shrub. If your lilac bushes have been left to their own devices for far too long, prune the entire shrub to about six or eight inches off the ground. After three years or so, your shrub will be full of blossoms.

3) How to fertilize lilacs?

Feeding plants gives them nutrients that can produce lush foliage and promote health. Lilacs don't need much in the way of nutrients, however, so err on the side of less fertilizer, not more. Above all, avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers. Those three numbers on the fertilizer packet represent nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. If the numbers are the same (e.g. 10-10-10), the fertilizer includes equal amounts of the nutrients. If the first number is bigger (e.g. 30-10-10), it's heavy in nitrogen. Always fertilize lilacs with a closely balanced fertilizer. Apply it in spring, when the lilac canes wake up from their winter sleep.

4) How to transplant lilac shrubs?

Plants aren't partial to being moved around and can experience transplant shock, so only transplant when you really need to. The key to happy shrub transplants is taking as many roots as possible to the plant's new location. The best time to transplant is fall, but spring works too. Dig deep and wide to get a good size root ball. Be sure to keep it moist while you are taking it to the new site, and water it thoroughly once the transplant is done. Transplanted shrubs need extra water for a season or two until their roots gets re-established.

5)  How to grow lilacs in hot climates?

Your best bet is to select a lilac variety that is heat tolerant and accepts mild winters. Lilacs can thrive in heat, as long as winter is long enough. Most lilac species require a long period of winter chill in order to flower well the following year. If your hot climate doesn't get much winter, you might try one of the low-chill lilac hybrids available in commerce, including 'Lavender Lady,' 'Blue Skies' or 'Angel White.' If lilacs just won't grow where you live, a good substitute is lilac chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus), with lilac look-alike flowers but alas no fragrance.

6) How to propagate lilacs?

You can plant lilac seeds, root softwood cuttings or transplant shoots to propagate lilac plants. Lilacs grow readily from seeds. If you decide to propagate with seeds, harvest your own by picking off the seed pods when they mature, then plant them in spring or fall. Seeds from hybrid plants don't grow new lilacs that look like their parents, so you may want to propagate them by cuttings. Take cuttings from tender new growth in late spring. Root the cuttings in perlite, then transplant them in your garden. You can also transplant the shoots you see growing beneath the lilac bush.

7) How to treat powdery mildew on lilac bushes?

If your lilac plants look like someone spilled power on their leaves, they may have powdery mildew, a type of garden fungus. But don't worry, you can help your lilac bushes. First, try to buy cultivars that are resistant to this pest. Then plant your lilac bushes in full sun in a spot that gets good air circulation. If necessary, prune out vegetation to increase the air flow. Always water your plants from below to reduce moisture on foliage. What if your plant gets powdery mildew anyway? Use one of the many fungicides available in commerce to combat powdery mildew. Neem oil is a good choice.

8) What causes shoots under lilac bush?

Those shoots you spot poking out of the ground under your lilac bush are growing from the lilac roots. They are called suckers. If you want more lilac plants, you can get them for free by transplanting these shoots into another garden area. The best time to transplant these shoots is spring or fall. Dig down from the trunk to expose the clump roots, then cut a shoot away from the parent plant, taking some of the roots. Replant the sucker in an appropriate, sunny location. New shoots needs regular irrigation for the first season to develop root systems.

9) Are roots of lilac plants invasive?

Lilac plants are invasive in that they expand and are difficult to remove from your backyard. While the lilac plant's roots will not turn up your sidewalk, the shrubs do send up many suckers, each of which grow into new plants. The roots grow horizontally, parallel with the surface of the soil. As they go along, they send up these sucker shoots. A single lilac plant easily form a grove over time. Even if you cut down the clump and try to remove the roots, the lilac plant regrows from any piece of root section left in the ground.

10) When to plant a lilac bush?

You'll find that the best seasons for planting lilac bushes are spring and fall. If you plant in spring, wait until winter's worst has passed. Planting in fall might mean less work, as autumn rains generally provide irrigation. In either season, you'll want to dig a planting hole that is sufficiently deep and wide to accommodate the shrub's roots. Spread the roots vertically in the soil when you plant. Don't squeeze bushes together or you'll soon get overcrowding. Instead, space them at least 5 feet apart. Lilacs do best in a site with excellent drainage and plenty of afternoon sun.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we understand you may have questions about your precious plants. After all, that's one of the reasons why we do what we do. Keeping gardeners well informed on the how's, when's, why's and more helps ensure a successful gardening experience. Sago palm plants are commonly grown both in the home and the landscape. While they're usually trouble free, they do have their problems now and then. Here are the 10 most asked questions about growing sago palm trees. 1) How to care for an indoor sago palm - what type of soil is best? Sago palms are popular houseplants because they require very little care. While they prefer a bright location, they can tolerate lower lighting. Near a bright window, but away from any direct drafts, is a good location for an indoor sago palm. The most important requirement sago palms have is properly draining soil, as wet feet can lead to rot and death of the plant. As for sago palm plant soil, they prefer a well-draining, slightly sandy growing medium. They should be watered deeply but then allowed to dry out between waterings. Indoor sago palms will also appreciate once a month feeding with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. 2) What to do with sago palm pups? A mature sago palm may produce offsets, or pups. If left attached to the main trunk, these pups can take away valuable nutrients and water from the parent plant. To transplant sago palm pups, with a clean, sharp garden trowel, gently sever the pups from the parent plant. Brush off any soil on the pup and cut back its foliage. Allow the pup root to dry out for a week or two. Then plant only the bottom half of the sago palm pup rootball in a pot filled with a sandy soil mix, leaving the top half of the rootball above the soil line and exposed. Water the newly planted pups thoroughly. If you'd like, you can water it with a mix of water and a rooting fertilizer. Let the soil dry out between waterings but water deeply and thoroughly when you do water. Pups should remain in pots until they have established their own sufficient root system. Then they can be transplanted outdoors if desired. 3) Should you remove female sago flowers? and do you prune male sago palm cones? Sagos produce both male and female plants. A female sago palm will sometimes produce flowers. These flowers may use up some of the plant's available nutrients as they form, causing the plant's overall growth to slow during bloom time. However, the flowers do not harm the plant. Removing the flowers can cause unintentional harm to the plant, so it is best to let them grow. Likewise, male sago palms may produce cone-like seed pods. These can be left to grow, but unlike females, the cones can be removed without harming the plant if desired. Wait to remove the cone until fully open, revealing the pollen inside. If you don't plan to use your male cone for pollination, then it can be removed any time, even when first starting to grow. Hold the cone at the center and snap it off. You can also saw it off at the bottom. 4) Can I cut back a sago palm plant? Sago palms do not like to be cut back or pruned. Pruning should only be done when absolutely necessary. When pruning a sago palm, only dead, diseased or damaged fronds should be removed, though, the plant itself will usually shed these fronds on its own. A sago palm's fronds store nutrients that the plant needs to grow, even sickly, yellowing fronds still provide the plant with nutrients. Cutting sago palm fronds off can slow the plant's growth, or cause it to grow stunted or deformed. Pruning sago palms also leaves the plant vulnerable to pests and diseases. Only when absolutely necessary, cut sago palm fronds right back to the trunk, in late fall or early spring. 5) Can you transplant a sago palm? Once established, a sago palm does not like to be moved. However, if you must transplant a sago palm, do this in late winter or early spring while the plant is in a semi-dormant phase. Prepare for transplanting the day before moving a sago by watering the plant deeply and pre-digging the hole in its new location. When digging up the sago palm to transplant it, be sure to dig up as much of the root system as possible to reduce transplant shock. Plant the sago palm in its new location, no deeper than it was planted in before. Water the newly planted sago thoroughly. Watering it with a rooting fertilizer can also help reduce shock as well. Repotting container grown plants should also be done in late winter or early spring. 6) Why is my sago plant turning yellow? Sago palm fronds turning yellow can be a sign of a nutrient deficiency. Sago palms should be fertilized regularly, about once a month, with a houseplant fertilizer. Yellowing fronds can also be caused by insect infestation or poor drainage. If you have already been feeding your sago palm regularly but foliage is still turning yellow, inspect it carefully for insects and treat as needed, if you find any. Water the plant deeply when you water it but then allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Wet feet can lead to crown and root rot, which can lead to die back and yellowing of the foliage. 7) How to fertilize sago palms? And how often should sago palms be watered? When fertilizing sagos, an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer used as the label directs and once a month is fine for indoor sago palm houseplants. Outdoor sago palms may grow best with a slow release fertilizer specifically made for palms. Although sago palms are not true palms, they have the same basic nutrient needs as true palm plants. Always use fertilizers as their labels say to use them, as too much of a good thing can be harmful. When watering a sago palm, water it at the soil or root zone. Do not water the trunk, as this can cause rot and diseases. Water deeply and thoroughly, saturating the root zone. Then allow the soil to dry out before its next watering. Proper drainage is very important for sago palms and over watering is the most common cause of death or disease of sago palms. Yellowing fronds or browning foliage tips can be a sign of overwatering. 8) How to take care of a sago palm in cold weather? Sago palms are hardy in zone 8 or higher. They cannot survive long-term frost or freezing, although they can withstand brief periods of temperatures as low as 15 degree F. (-9 C.), but are killed at 23 F. (-5 C.) or below. This means you need to provide sago palm winter protection. Even in zone 8, temperatures can occasionally dip too low for sago palms. In colder areas, it may be best to grow sago palms as potted plants that can be moved into a sheltered location if temperatures get too low. However, if you have sago palms planted outdoors give them about a 3-inch layer of mulch around their base through the winter months. Also, cover the whole plant with burlap or blankets if there is any danger of frost. Sago palms go through a semi-dormant phase in winter and will require less watering and feeding during these months. 9) Can you save a sago palm damaged by cold? Unfortunately, these plants are easily damaged by cold. If you have a cold damaged plants, wait until spring to cut back the plant to help protect the new growth in case another freeze occurs. Remove only the yellow and brown fronds in the spring, as they will not come back. Do not remove green fronds. It is hard to say how well they will grow back. Sago palms do not deal well with lost fronds, but they have been known to recover fine. Generally, if the stems are alive, they have a good chance of recovering. 10) How to treat white spots on sago? White spots on sago palm can be from fungal diseases or insect infestation, like scale or mealybugs. Either way, the best course of action to take if you see white spots on your sago palm is to start a neem oil regiment. Neem oil is a natural pesticide and fungicide. Be sure to spray all aerial surfaces of the plant, taking care to thoroughly get the undersides of the foliage or any nooks and crannies where pests or disease can hide. Re-apply after a week or two. Sometimes, fungal diseases or pest infestations can be caused by environmental factors like soggy, humid weather and will correct themselves naturally if the weather dries out. When watering sago palms, always water at the soil not the trunk or foliage. Everyone has questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Don't let the thought of growing lime trees intimidate you. While they do have their share of problems, overall, growing a lime tree isn't that difficult. That said, it does help to arm yourself with the right information for basic care as well as information for overcoming common issues along the way. Gardening Know How can help with this by answering those common questions that plaque us all. Here are the top questions about lime trees. 1) How to care for potted lime trees? Lime trees grow well in containers. In climates with cold winters, planting them in containers and overwintering them indoors is essential. Dwarf varieties work best for container growing, but full sized trees will stay small and healthy with pruning. Plant your lime tree in a large container (15 gallons is ideal) with wheels on the bottom for easy moving. Make sure your container has plenty of drainage holes, and fill it with well-draining, neutral potting soil. Place your container in a sunny, south-facing location and bring it indoors when temperatures fall below freezing. 2) Why a lime tree doesn't produce fruit? It's frustrating to plant a fruit tree and get no fruit. There are a number of reasons for a lime tree not bearing fruit. This could be due to a lack of phosphorus, as fertilizers heavy in nitrogen but low in phosphorus will result in lots of leafy growth but no flowers or fruit. Heat is also important. Limes need warmer temperatures than other citrus trees in order to fruit. Water is crucial too. Overwatering and uneven watering can cause a lime tree to drop its blossoms. The problem may also be pruning. If you've pruned your tree to keep it compact, you may have accidentally removed this season's buds. 3) Why are leaves turning yellow on lime tree? On most plants, yellowing leaves are a sure sign of less than ideal conditions. If the leaves on your lime tree are turning yellow, a good guess is that you're overwatering. Lime trees need lots of water to thrive, but they also need good drainage, especially those in containers. If the roots are allowed to sit in standing water, the leaves will turn yellow and maybe even drop. Yellowing leaves can also be a sign of stress brought about by a sudden change in temperature or light. The best way to keep a lime tree's leaves green is to keep its environment stable. 4) What to do for premature fruit drop? Some fruit drop is perfectly normal for lime trees. Often, a tree will produce more flowers and fruit than it can support, and it will drop them over the course of the growing season in order to devote the available energy to the number of fruits it can maintain. If your tree seems to be losing a lot of fruit or showing other signs of distress, it could be due to uneven watering or pH imbalance. Maintain steady but well-draining watering habits and keep the soil at a neutral pH to ensure good fruit set. 5) How to prune lime trees? Pruning lime trees isn't essential, but plenty of gardeners like to do it to keep them shaped nicely and to increase airflow. The best time to prune a lime tree is autumn after the tree has stopped fruiting or early spring before new buds form. Damaged or weak branches should always be removed, since they might not be able to bear the weight of fruit. Cut back branches evenly throughout the tree to allow for good airflow and even sunlight throughout. This will help prevent disease and encourage faster ripening of fruit. 6) Why are lime tree leaves curling? Curling lime leaves can be a sign of a few different problems. Pests of lime trees might be the number one source - aphids, mites and psyllids all suck the juices from leaves, which can cause them to curl. Check the underside of your leaves and spray with insecticide if you see any bugs. If no bugs are present, the problem might be not enough water. Increase your watering and add a few inches of mulch to help retain moisture. If water's not the cause, it could be a potassium deficiency. Try feeding with a potassium-rich fertilizer. 7) How do you stop lime tree pests? There are quite a few pests that feed on lime trees. These include leaf miners, scale bugs, citrus mites and aphids. Often, they don't appear in the spring because the winter has severely knocked back their numbers, so you'll likely notice them being a problem later in the summer. A lot of pest problems can be avoided by keeping the area under your tree clear and pruning to allow for good air and light circulation. If you do have an infestation, try using neem oil and citrus sprays. If that fails, use a harsher chemical insecticide. 8) Why are my limes turning yellow? It's a little known fact that limes actually turn yellow when they ripen! We always pick and eat limes when they're green and technically not 'ripe' yet. Unlike a lot of fruits, they won't continue to ripen after they're picked, which is why you hardly ever see yellow limes. If your limes are turning yellow, it's not a sign that anything bad has happened. It just means you've left them on the tree longer than you should have. About the same time they turn yellow, they start to wrinkle and become bitter and aren't very good for eating. 9) When are limes ready for harvest? Limes are picked when they're still green, before they're technically 'ripe.' So how can you tell a fruit is ripe when it doesn't change color? You don't want to wait until your limes turn yellow, but you do want them to turn a lighter shade of green. The lighter the lime, the more likely it is to be ready to pick. When you squeeze a lime that's ready for harvest, it should give a little under your fingers - unripe limes are hard. If you're unsure, pick a lime and cut it open. If it's ripe, it should be very juicy inside. Unripe limes are much more solid. 10) How to fertilize a lime tree? Lime trees, like all citrus trees, are very heavy feeders. It's best to fertilize a lime tree with a suitable citrus tree fertilizer every one to two months during spring and summer and every two to three months in fall and winter. After the tree is established at a few years of age, cut the feeding to half as regularly. Lime trees benefit from fertilizer that is a little bit nitrogen heavy, though phosphorus is key to flower and fruit production in the spring. You can fertilize a lime tree through soil amendments or a foliar spray. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and we want to answer them as best as possible. No question is too big or too small, and we know that sometimes a single plant can bring up all kinds of questions. Hibiscus is a very popular houseplant, and one that may bring up plenty of questions. The following information includes the 10 most commonly asked questions relating to hibiscus.

1) What causes yellow leaves on hibiscus? Yellowing leaves is one of the most common problems with hibiscus plants. Luckily, it's rarely serious and usually easy to fix. It can signal all kinds of different problems, so you'll have to use context to figure out which it might be. Yellow leaves might be caused by too little or too much water, too much or too little light, not enough nutrients, or conditions that are too hot or too cold. Take stock of how you've been treating your hibiscus and change anything you think might be too extreme, then wait and see if the leaves green up.  

2) What causes bud drop on hibiscus plants? Bud or blossom drop on hibiscus is usually due to pest problems, and the most common culprits are thrips and gall midge. Both of these insects feed on hibiscus buds, making them fall off before they bloom. If gall midge is your problem, you'll find their larvae inside dropped buds if you cut them open. Both pests can be controlled by a weekly spraying of insecticide. If pests don't seem to be present, bud drop can also be a signal of poor health due to improper watering or feeding, or sharp changes in temperature.

3) What pest is eating my hibiscus plant? There are several pests that target hibiscus plants. Some of the most common include sap sucking insects like spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, and whiteflies. Thrips, gall midge, and hibiscus beetles also attack the plants. These pests should all be able to be treated with a regular application of insecticide. One very effective and safe insecticide is Neem oil, which can be sprayed directly on the leaves or applied to the soil to be drawn up into the plant through the roots. Apply Neem oil once per week in the evening - low light and cooler temperatures are best for preventing damage to the leaves.

4) How do I prune a Hibiscus? Hibiscus plants thrive on a good pruning and should be cut back once per year. The best time by far for hibiscus pruning is early spring. You can cut back a hibiscus pretty aggressively just as it's coming out of its dormancy - this will encourage bushier growth and more buds. Cut off about a third of each branch, leaving 2 to 3 healthy nodes. Completely cut away any dead or unhealthy branches. You can prune your hibiscus less dramatically during the summer and early autumn, too. This will encourage more compact growth, but it will lose some potential for flowering. Avoid pruning at all in late fall and winter.

5) How do I care for a hibiscus in winter? The hibiscus is a hot weather plant that can't handle cold winter temperatures. If your climate experiences more than one or two days below freezing each winter, you'll have to bring it indoors. Place it somewhere that receives at least some light and has a temperature of at least 50 F. (10 C.). Water it occasionally, but only when the soil is dry to the touch. If you're overwintering your hibiscus indoors, expect it to go dormant and look much drabber than it did during the summer. The flowers will fade and some of the leaves might turn yellow, but this is completely normal.

6) Why isn't my hibiscus blooming? Maybe your hibiscus looks very healthy but just isn't blooming. This is a more common problem than you might think, and it has a very reasonable explanation. Your hibiscus isn't sick - it's just lacking in phosphorus. Phosphorus is key to a plant's ability to produce flowers, and it gets depleted over time. If your hibiscus isn't blooming like it should, work some phosphorus into the soil. You can buy phosphorus rich fertilizer, but you can also use bone meal, rock phosphate, or rich compost. It's very hard to give plants too much phosphorus because they have difficulty absorbing it, so don't worry about overdoing it.

7) Why is my hibiscus dropping its leaves? Hibiscus leaf drop is very closely related to leaf yellowing - a lot of the time the two go hand in hand. This means the two are usually caused by the same problems. These can be too much or too little water, too much or too little light, too much or too little fertilizer, or too high or too low of a temperature. These can all be corrected easily. It's also not uncommon to experience a little leaf drop when you bring your hibiscus inside for the winter - this is normal and shouldn't be a problem.

8) How do I propagate a Hibiscus? Hibiscus can be propagated both from seeds and cuttings. Most gardeners prefer using cuttings because it guarantees that the plant will look the same as its parent. Cuttings should be taken in spring or early summer, when the new growth is young and green. Cut a 4- to 6-inch length just below a node. Remove all but the top set of leaves, dip the end in rooting hormone, and sink the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil. Cover it with a plastic bag and place it out of direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist.

9) How much sunlight does a Hibiscus need? While you often hear that hibiscus plants need full sun, this isn't necessarily the case. They will grow and bloom perfectly well on a windowsill where they receive just 2 to 4 hours of sun per day given adequate care. Even outdoors, the amount of sunlight a hibiscus needs depends on climate. In temperate zones, the plants will thrive in full sun. The hotter your summer, however, the more shade your hibiscus will prefer - the plants are known to languish in the full sun of the southern U.S. If you live in a highly numbered zone, plant your hibiscus in a partly shaded spot.

10) How do I transplant a Hibiscus? The best time to transplant a hibiscus is just after its flowers have faded - in most climates this will be in late summer or early autumn. The first thing you should do is dig a hole in your plant's new location. Next, trim your hibiscus back to about ⅓ of its size. This may feel drastic, but it will do a lot to help the plant overcome root shock. Water the plant, then dig a circle 1 foot away from the trunk for every inch of trunk diameter. Place it in its new home so the soil line is at the same level. Fill in with compost and soil and water thoroughly.

We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.

It can be disheartening to have your hard work in the garden go caput due to unforeseen challenges along the way. That's why it is the goal of Gardening Know How to help avoid these issues, or at the very least amend them, by providing the best information possible so your garden will flourish - and that includes answering the gardening questions that plague us all. Fig trees are no exception. The common fig, Ficus carica, is native to the Middle East and western Asia but can be grown in the southern and western United States quite easily. Fig trees can be grown outdoors or in containers and, with the right care, will fruit prolifically. Here are the top questions about growing figs.

1) How to prune a fig tree

Fig trees should be pruned when you first transplant them and again in the winter when the tree is dormant. When the tree is first planted, it should be cut back by about half to allow the tree to concentrate on developing a strong root system and to grow side branches. Once the tree is established, prune the tree to make it easier to harvest and maintain its overall health. Prune out any dead or diseased wood or suckers, remove secondary branches that are at less than a 45-degree angle from main branches, and cut back the main branches by 1/3 to 1/4. Container grown figs can be pruned similar to that of those grown in ground.

2) How to propagate a fig tree

Fig trees can be propagated quite easily, especially cuttings. Take a ½ to ¾ inch thick cutting that's between 8-12 inches in length from the tree late in the dormant season. Cut the tip at a slant and the bottom of the cutting flat. Treat the slanted end with sealant to prevent disease and the flat end with rooting hormone. Place the flat end into a couple of inches of sand or potting soil and then back fill with more medium. Keep the cutting warm, in a sunny location and regularly watered. The new tree will be ready to transplant the following dormant season.

3) Can you plant and grow fig trees in containers?

Yes, and the larger the pot, the better unless you want to restrict the plant size. The benefits of growing figs in containers are that yields are often improved and the harvest date is earlier due to root restriction. A half whiskey barrel or the like is an ideal container for figs. Place the pot on casters for ease of movement. Choose a site with lots of sun and pot the fig in well-draining, loamy, compost-rich soil. Container grown plants require consistent irrigation and more of it than those grown in the garden as well as more frequent fertilization.

4) Why isn't my fig tree producing figs?

There are three major reasons for a fig tree not producing: the age of the tree, excess nitrogen and stress caused by too much or too little water. Some fig trees fruit at 2 years of age and some at 6you're your tree is older than this, I would look at watering next. Remember, fig trees in pots need more water than those in the ground. Try using a water gauge to determine if you are over or under watering. If that doesn't seem to be the problem, then the issue might be nitrogen. Too much can lead to lush foliage at the expense of flowering, thus no fruit. Switch to a lower nitrogen fertilizer or add some phosphorus to the soil.

5)  How to treat rust on fig trees?

Rust fungus thrives in wet, humid environments and is most common in late summer or early fall. While rust on fig trees is unsightly, it isn't fatal, although it can foster winter die back of branches and affect the ripening of fruit. Remove any infected leaves at the first sign of infection and dispose of them; don't compost them. Then treat the plant with a fungicide that contains copper sulfate and lime. Treat bare trees during the dormant season and repeat every 2-3 weeks. Also, prune the fig to improve air circulation and allow for more rapid surface water evaporation.

6) How to care for fig tree in winter?

Caring for fig trees in winter differs slightly depending on your zone and if grown in pots versus those in ground. Container grown figs can just be moved into a cool, dry area such as a garage or basement. If kept outdoors, however, I would place the container in a well-protected location, such as next to the house or a wall where it can absorb heat. The pot may also need to be wrapped. For trees planted in the ground, start by pruning in the fall. Then, tie the branches together and place a thick layer of mulch over the ground to protect the roots. Wrap the tree in layers of burlap, leaving the top open to allow for air circulation and let excess heat escape. Build a cage of chicken wire around the tree and fill it with straw or leaves and then wrap entirely in bubble wrap or other plastic insulation. Top the entire contraption with a bucket. Remove in early spring when night temps are consistently above 20 F. (-6 C.).

7) How do you stop fig leaves from browning?

First, check the soil. If the soil is very dry, it could be resisting taking up water. If this is the case, then rehydrating the plant may be all you need. Fill your tub or a large bucket with water and place the plant in the water and let it sit for about an hour. This will force the overly dry soil to once again take up water and should help with any leaves falling off as well. For in-ground plants, soak the ground for about an hour to obtain the same results. If the soil is moist, something else is causing the browning. Pests or disease could be to blame and will need to be dealt with accordingly, which will ultimately help take care of the browning foliage. Also, you can prune off the brown leaves as well as any dead or dying branches.

8) What causes leaf drop on fig trees?

Figs are notoriously fickle and will drop their leaves due to a number of factors. Leaf drop may be a normal result of dormancy, which is a natural occurrence upon the onset of winter. Pest infestation can cause leaf drop but can be controlled with weekly neem oil applications. Over or under-watering figs will result in leaf drop. Be sure to water when the 1st inch of soil is dry to the touch. Also, environmental factors such as a change in lighting, humidity or temperature will stress the fig and result in leaf drop. Gradually expose the tree to any new conditions beginning with an hour and increasing the fig's time in the new area over the course of a couple of weeks.

9) Why figs are not ripening

A fig tree that fruits but doesn't ripen or mature is probably under stress either from a lack of water or nutrients, or due to high temps. If you fertilize and water regularly, it might be a temperature flux. Also, pests and disease might be the problem; attacks by either of these causes the fig to divert energy from ripening into protecting itself. Treat any pests or disease promptly and if you have had a period of high heat, be sure to water more frequently. Poor pollination can also contribute to this issue, as the fig fruit will remain very small and may also drop from the tree before ripening.

10) How and when to fertilize a fig tree

Generally, these plants draw all the nutrients they require from the soil; therefore, regular fertilizing of figs is not usually necessary except for potted trees or those growing in poor soil, such as with sandy soil that leaches nutrients rapidly or when figs are surrounded by competing plants. Fig fertilization also depends on whether a plant is young or mature. Use a general purpose balanced fertilizer (8-8-8 or 10-10-10) per foot of plant height each time. For instance, feed 1 and 2 year old trees an ounce of fertilizer once a month when the tree begins to put out new leaves, in late winter or early spring. Older trees get 1/3 pound of fertilizer per foot monthly in late winter, mid-spring and mid-summer. Stop feeding before the end of July. We all have questions now and then, whether long-time gardeners or those just starting out. So if you have a gardening question, get a gardening answer. We're always here to help.