That tub of yogurt at the back of your fridge may have a second life in your garden, according to a surprising bit of advice making the rounds online. Yogurt does hold calcium and protein, which are two important nutrients tomatoes need to thrive. Though whether a tomato plant can use any of it is a separate question.

The claim that a spoonful of yogurt plopped into your watering can boost tomato growth turns up regularly in gardening forums, usually framed as a good calcium source for tomatoes. The logic runs that dairy is rich in calcium – and tomatoes often suffer from calcium problems – so giving plants a dose of dairy fertilizer can provide plants with what they need. But this theory isn't exactly accurate.

But yogurt isn't exactly useless in the garden. Use it alongside a proper tomato fertilizer and it could potentially give plants a little extra oomph. I'll walk you through the truth behind the claim that yogurt is a good fertilizer for tomatoes, how to try it out for yourself, and some precautions to take before using yogurt in your garden.

Why Gardeners Are Using Yogurt on Tomato Plants

Calcium is the main claim behind using yogurt as a tomato fertilizer. Blossom end rot ruins fruit every summer and a lack of calcium is often named as the culprit, so a tub of yogurt in the fridge is perhaps the nearest source on hand. Plain yogurt carries a fair amount of calcium by food standards, which makes the connection feel obvious.

The rest of the appeal spreads wider than just that one mineral, though. Yogurt is also a good source of protein and protein means nitrogen for plants.

Lactose is a sugar that soil microbes will eat readily, which can improve soil. Then there are the live cultures in yogurt, mainly Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus, which fit the popular notion of feeding soil biology as well. The tub was headed for the bin regardless.

Does Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer Really Work?

The case for yogurt as a calcium source for tomatoes falls apart once you really look at the numbers. A tablespoon (15 ml) of yogurt carries roughly 20 milligrams of calcium. A tomato in full fruit moves vastly more than that throughout a single season and the soil in which it grows is almost certainly holds a surplus already. So a spoonful of yogurt fertilizer doesn't make much of an impact.

Arithmetic isn't the real trouble, though. Calcium in dairy arrives bound to casein, which means soil microbes have to dismantle it before roots can reach any useful nutrients. Warmth and time do that work on their own timetable. Nobody decides when the nutrient turns up or whether it does so while the plant still needs it.

Blossom end rot is rarely a result of a shortage of calcium in the first place. It's more often a delivery failure. Uneven watering of tomato plants interrupts calcium moving into developing fruit, creating blossom end rot. Yogurt doesn't address the mechanism blocking the calcium, it only addresses the nutrient itself.

Best Type of Yogurt to Use

If you still want to try out this homemade tomato fertilizer anyways, choosing the right yogurt is key. Plain yogurt is the only version that belongs near a garden bed. Nothing else on the dairy aisle qualifies. A tub of yogurt is cheap and choosing nonfat leaves less greasy residue behind than the full fat stuff. Fruit, honey, added sugar – none of it should reach the garden.

Artificial sweeteners are the other thing to skip, since they bring nothing to the soil and nobody can say how the residues behave in a garden bed. Sugar-loaded yogurt causes a quicker problem, drawing ants, wasps, and rodents to the base of the plant. Flavored tubs also carry stabilizers nobody should pour on a garden.

How to Make Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer

Dilution does the safety work for yogurt tomato fertilizer. One tablespoon (15 ml) of plain yogurt stirred into a full 2 gallon (9 L) watering can is the strongest dose you should use. Stir it well so nothing settles into a lump, then pour slowly around the drip line of your tomatoes, roughly 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) from the stem.

Follow with a can of plain water to carry the yogurt fertilizer below the soil surface, since dairy left sitting on top can cause problems. Keep every drop off the foliage as well. Damp residue on leaves in warm weather invites fungal tomato diseases far harder to fix than any nutrient shortage.

How Often to Apply

Applying yogurt tomato fertilizer once a month through the growing season is plenty and, often, less is fine. This belongs with small experiments rather than scheduled feeding, so there's little to gain from building a routine around it.

Anyone curious can run it properly. Treat one plant with the diluted mix, leave a matching plant untreated beside it and compare at season's end. That beats the anecdotes floating around online and it costs a single tub of yogurt.

What you should never do is replace a scheduled feed of traditional tomato fertilizer with only yogurt. A plant that doesn't receive real fertilizer and only yogurt just isn't being fed properly.

Mistakes To Avoid

Dolloping on a dose of yogurt fertilizer undiluted is a big problem for tomato plants. A blob of dairy on warm soil goes sour and draws flies. It can also set into a crust that sheds water instead of letting it through. Container plants suffer worst, since a pot holds little soil and none of the microbial diversity a bed uses to process organic matter.

Instead, if the goal is feeding the soil, a bag of Back to the Roots organic compost from Home Depot does that job properly.

Repeat applications of yogurt tomato fertilizer are the other trap. Residue accumulates and a spot treated over and over starts to smell bad and stays damp.

Signs to Stop Using Yogurt

A sour smell around the base of the plant means the residue is fermenting instead of breaking down cleanly. White or fuzzy growth across the soil surface signals the same issue. Scrape off what you can and flush the area with plain water.

Insects and animals can cause problems, too. Fungus gnats drifting around the stem are a sign something's wrong, but fruit flies more so. Soil turned over at night by raccoons or rats is the surest signal, since something has found the smell interesting. And a plant that looks worse than before the experiment started has already answered the question.

What to Use Instead

Fruiting tomatoes want steady nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, with an emphasis on the last two once flowering starts. Plants also need calcium and magnesium in amounts no kitchen leftover supplies. Espoma Tomato-tone 3-4-6 with 8% calcium from Amazon covers all a tomato needs in one product and yogurt simply can't compete.

Watering does more for blossom end rot than any additive from your fridge. Deep, even soakings in a steady rhythm with a few inches of mulch to hold in the moisture keep calcium moving into the fruit. All in all, save the yogurt for your breakfast. Invest in a good organic commercial tomato fertilizer or homemade compost instead.

Peppers hit an odd stretch in midsummer. The plants look their best right when the strain is heaviest, carrying a full load of fruit while the soil dries out by noon. Plenty of gardens quietly stop setting new pods in July, but the drop in production doesn't turn up until August.

The good news is that growing peppers in July comes down to a short list of jobs rather than a rescue mission. None of them take long. What they share is a focus on steadying the plant instead of pushing it. Even moisture matters more right now than any feeding schedule, and peppers coming off at the right point keeps the plant making more of veggies to eat.

Consistent care in July will set up your pepper plants for a huge harvest and continued healthy growth. Here are the most essential – but easy-to-do – tasks to check off your list before August arrives.

1. Fertilize for Fruit, Not Foliage

Nitrogen did what it needed to do in June. By July it starts working against your pepper plant, pushing leafy growth at the expense of flowers and leaving a big handsome pepper bush with very little hanging on it.

Plants already carrying fruit want less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, which is why Lilly Miller Morcrop 5-10-10 tomato and vegetable food from Amazon matches the stage the plants are actually in.

Side-dress plants lightly instead of generously – work roughly a tablespoon per plant into the soil about 6 inches (15 cm) out from the stem, then water fertilizer in. Reapplying every three or four weeks is plenty.

After fertilizing peppers, it takes time for the results to appear. So there's nothing to judge the next morning and a heavy hand in midsummer heat can cause fertilizer burn that are already under pressure.

2. Water Deeply & Consistently

Blossom end rot in peppers usually isn't from a calcium shortage in the soil. It's actually a delivery failure. The plant can't move calcium into developing fruit when the ground swings from soaked to dust and back to damp after watering.

Water pepper plants deeply two or three times a week. They prefer that over a daily splash. Water plants on roughly the same schedule week after week. If you're unsure, a finger pushed 2 inches (5 cm) into the bed settles the question of whether or not you need to water again. If soil is dry at that depth that means water now.

Wet foliage is what leaf disease waits for, and is part of why a heavy-duty soaker hose from Home Depot beats a sprinkler. Water for 30 to 45 minutes along the row of plants so moisture soaks down at root depth with nothing landing on the plant.

Add mulch to hold in moisture and protect from heat. Use straw or shredded leaves at 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) deep and the soil quits cooking by mid-afternoon.

3. Protect From Scorching Sun

Pepper flowers don't form or develop into fruit when days climb past 90°F (32C) and nights hang above 75°F (24°C). Pollen turns sterile, the flower drops, and the plant carries on looking perfectly healthy while setting nothing at all. It's a common reason a July pepper plant seems to quit for a few weeks, and the fruit already on board will keep sizing up through it, which hides the problem for a while.

Shade in the 30 to 40 percent range, run from late morning through the worst of the afternoon, can pull leaf temperature down enough to keep pollen viable. A panel of 40% sunblock shade cloth from Walmart hung on hoops or tied off between stakes does the job and comes down once the forecast eases. The plants keep enough light to carry on growing. It's a filter, not a lid.

4. Support Growing Peppers

Pepper stems are brittle and a branch loaded with fruit tends to split from the main stem during the first hard storm that comes through. That single break can take a third of the harvest with it. A plant that's already leaning has waited too long for support.

Stake pepper plants with supports driven 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) deep beside the main stem. 4-foot bamboo stakes with garden twine from Amazon are perfect for this job. Tie with a figure-eight so the stem isn't cinched against the stake and leave the tie slack so the trunk can continue to thicken through August. Attach ties loosely at two or three heights to support the whole plant.

5. Pick Early & Often

Peppers left to fully ripen on the plant send a signal that the season's work is done, so flowering slows to match. Sweet peppers picked at full size while still green will push the plant to set another round of fruit.

Picking sweet peppers early is fine. A green pepper on the counter is the same pepper it would have been in the garden, just minus a couple weeks of waiting. Harvesting hot peppers is the exception, since capsaicin keeps building as they color up.

Harvest peppers by cutting at the stem with pruners instead of pulling, since a tug can take the branch with the pepper. Check every two or three days once the fruit starts coming.

Pick anything that's split or showing soft spots, even if it's nowhere near ready. Damaged fruit draws common pepper pests and gives the plant no reason to keep working.

It’s a common myth that growing vegetables requires a lot of time, effort, expensive tools and even a greenhouse. Of course, it's perfectly possible to raise a garden of fussy veggies that need daily care, but there is a far easier way to grow your own: choose low-maintenance vegetable varieties that flourish even if you miss a day or two of care. Whether you're a beginner gardener or just short on time, selecting easy, speedy vegetables to grow will bring you tasty harvests in return for very little effort.

We're very familiar with ornamental plants that practically grow themselves, but vegetables? No plants can be completely neglected when you're growing vegetables, but some are far more forgiving than others. One of the most time-consuming chores is watering, and while all veggies need water, some types and varieties are naturally better at coping with hot weather, dry spells, and those days when you just don’t have the time – or will – to water.

These are fast-growing, heat-tolerant vegetables so can all be sown in July. The warm soil in summer will help seeds germinate quickly, so plants produce a good harvest before the growing season ends. That makes these vegetables a great choice for children to grow, too – or if you simply want to experience the childlike joy of an uncomplicated homegrown harvest. Here's our pick of easy-going veggies you can still sow in July.

1. Zucchini 'Black Beauty'

Zucchini is a classic summer veggie, known for its abundant production and mild, versatile flavor. ‘Black Beauty’ is one of the most dependable cultivars and, even in hot, dry weather, it still produces heavily. The large leaves shade the soil, keeping it a little cooler and helping retain moisture, enabling the plant to bounce back after a missed watering or two.

Ideal for zones 3 through 10, zucchini ‘Black Beauty’ seeds are available from Burpee. And it couldn't be easier to grow Black Beauty zucchinis. Sow seeds in soil in full sun, and make sure there is plenty of space between plants – while this variety only reaches a foot high, it can spread 5-7 feet (though this stem growth doesn't need to be over soil). Water deeply once or twice a week and your zucchinis should be ready to harvest about 50 days after sowing seeds, making this one of the best vegetables to sow in July. Harvest regularly while the fruit are still small (6-8 inches) for the best flavor.

2. Cucumber 'Armenian Dark Green'

‘Dark Green’ produces long, crisp cucumbers with no hint of bitterness. This is an excellent variety for a salad and for slicing to eat raw with dips, and is suitable for zones 2 through 10. The plants thrive in the heat of mid and late summer and grow readily and easily without too much intervention from you. The root system runs deep, so occasionally missing a watering won’t phase this cultivar.

Armenian Dark Green Cucumber seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Make sure you sow seeds in a spot with full sun and, if possible, provide a support for the vine to climb. While you can grow cucumbers along the ground, a trellis or fence keeps fruits out of the dirt and saves space. Water as consistently as possible and harvest the cucumbers when they are between 12 and 18 inches long, about 65 days after sowing the seeds.

3. Bush Beans 'Contender'

Growing bush beans is straightforward, and 'Contender' is a particularly forgiving variety as it will tolerate some dry periods. Forgetting to water this plant might slow production of tender, stringless bean pods, but it won't stop it altogether. ‘Contender’ is appropriate for zones 3 through 9.

Contender Bush Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Direct-sow seeds for this bush bean in full sun, in the ground or a large container. Water regularly, but don’t worry if you do so imperfectly. Compared to other types, this variety continues to thrive in hot weather, and the beans should be ready in about 50 days after sowing. Harvest beans regularly to encourage more production.

4. Carrot 'Red Cored Chantenay'

When you're considering vegetables to sow in summer, don't discount carrots. 'Red Cored Chantenay' develops shorter roots than other cultivars, which makes it easier for new or time-pushed gardeners to get a good harvest, as the short length means they are less likely to turn out misshapen. This variety also has tops that tolerate heat well. An heirloom carrot variety, it has a sweet flavor and is great for eating raw and for cooking.

Red Cored Chantenay Carrot Seeds are available from Walmart. To grow carrots, sow seeds in place, either in the ground. Because of its shorter roots, this is also one of the best veggies to grow in containers for a productive kitchen garden on your patio. Suitable for zones 3 through 10, ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ does best in full sun or some dappled shade and with soil that stays consistently moist, especially in the seedling stage. While you’ll still enjoy a good harvest even with a little neglect, the best carrots develop with regular and consistent watering.

5. Okra 'Clemson Spineless'

Okra is an unsung hero of the garden, but if you learn how to cook this tasty veggie, you’ll benefit from a fast-growing plant that’s easy for beginners and busy gardeners to grow. The flowers are so pretty, too, and because the fruit pods grow vertically upwards, this is an attractive plant to have in your garden. It's a heat-lover, too, so this is one of the best vegetables to start from seed in July.

Even among other heat-loving okra varieties, ‘Clemson Spineless’ is extremely drought and heat-tolerant, thriving even if you neglect it a little or if the weather becomes unseasonably hot and dry. Clemson Spineless Okra seeds are available from Botanical Interests. Sow these okra seeds in a spot with full sun and water as regularly as possible. Grow okra and within 30 to 60 days, you’ll have tender young okra fruits to harvest. Okra is suitable to grow in zones 2 to 10, but hotter weather is best.

6. Pole Beans 'Rattlesnake'

Pole beans differ from bush beans in that they grow on a vine, and ‘Rattlesnake’ is a colorful variety of pole bean with pods striped in green and purple. Suitable for zones 4 through 10, this cultivar grows quickly, so you still have time for a good harvest this year.

It also forgives inconsistent watering better than other varieties, still providing a heavy yield, and Rattlesnake Pole Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Sow seeds in full sun next to a support the vine can climb like a trellis, arbor, fence, or even patio banister. While it appreciates regular moisture, this pole bean will bounce back after short dry spells.

7. Black-Eyed Cowpeas

Cowpeas are easy to grow, and grow fast, with pods maturing in about 60 days after sowing. That cowpeas are often used as cover crops between growing seasons to maintain soil health and enrich it with nitrogen shows you how what a low-maintenance vegetable this plant is. But you can also grow this veggie for an edible harvest. Cowpeas grow in areas and conditions that are tough for other vegetables, and naturally form upright, bushy plants, so this is a great option for beginners and busy gardeners who want to be more hands-off.

Black-Eyed Cowpea seeds are available from Eden Brothers and you can grow cowpeas in zones 5 through 11 as they handle the heat of midsummer very well. You can harvest fresh pods or leave them to dry to use later. Sow seeds for cowpeas in full sun and water regularly until they get established. Then you can largely leave them alone, and the plants will still thrive.

Successful vegetable gardening isn’t about doing everything perfectly. Start with these forgiving varieties of tasty veggies and simply provide as much consistent care as you can. The plants will thrive and give you a good harvest, even when your care is imperfect.

Cyclospora has been all over the news this summer. An outbreak has affected thousands of people across more than thirty states, with investigators pointing to commercial lettuce and salad greens. The parasite behind it, Cyclospora cayetanensis, spreads through fresh produce that has picked up traces of human waste somewhere along the way – which raises an obvious question for anyone who grows their own food. Can homegrown vegetables carry Cyclospora?

The reassuring part is that the trouble rarely starts in the backyard. A home vegetable garden sits at the low-risk end here, because it skips much of the commercial supply chain – the industrial farms and shared packing equipment a bagged salad passes through before the shelf. You decide what water touches the leaves and what goes into the soil.

But while a homegrown salad beats a store-bought one right now, it's not totally risk-free. Check your gardening practices and follow these simple habits to keep your harvest clean and safe to eat.

How Cyclospora Spreads, and Why the Garden Is Lower-Risk

Cyclospora doesn't pass straight from person to person. An infected person sheds it in their stool, and the parasite needs at least 1–2 weeks to mature in the environment before it can infect anyone else. That lag is why contamination travels through water and soil rather than a quick touch. Raw produce is the usual vehicle, and it's the uncooked crops that keep turning up. Leafy greens lead the list. Fresh herbs like basil and cilantro make the list too, along with soft fruit like raspberries.

A store-bought salad has already been through shared irrigation water and packing equipment and a long refrigerated haul by the time it hits the bag. Pick your own, and you skip nearly all of that. Cooking shuts the door the rest of the way – according to NYC Health, Cyclospora is killed at around 158°F (70°C), so a stir-fry or a pot of soup poses almost no risk. Raw food is where the care needs to go. Salad and berries never meet heat, so the real job is keeping the parasite out of the bed to begin with.

How to Protect Home Vegetables from Cyclospora

Cyclospora is spread through food or contaminated water, so the risk in a vegetable garden is not just about hygiene – it can also come from unsafe manure, contaminated water, or poor sanitation practices. Community gardens can be a little higher risk if shared water, tools, compost, or hygiene standards are weak, but the same food-safety rules apply in home gardens too.

1. Only Use Water From a Clean Source

The biggest garden risk is irrigation water drawn from a creek or pond that could be catching sewage overflow or septic seepage. Stick to tap water or a tested well. A two-gallon watering can filled at the tap, such as this Expert Gardener design from Walmart, keeps surface water off your leaves.

If you collect rainwater in a barrel, know that rooftop runoff can carry other biological contaminants, including from bird droppings. For edible crops, this water should not be treated as automatically safe unless the system is well maintained and the water is used in a way that avoids contaminating produce. However, it's well worth using a rainwater barrel to water ornamental beds. This RTS Home Accents ECO Rain Barrel from Amazon holds 50 gallons.

2. Check Composting Practices

If contaminated vegetables went into a home compost pile, the pile could be exposed to Cyclospora, and with slow/cold composting, pathogens may not be destroyed. Hot composting that reaches and holds high heat is what breaks pathogens down, and a Reotemp compost thermometer from Amazon shows whether the pile is getting there. A cold pile that never heats up should stay clear of food crops.

Never use raw human waste – sometimes called night soil – in the garden. It can be a direct route for the parasite to reach your crops. Even if you have a composting toilet, it's not automatically safe to use it to grow food, so don't risk using it anywhere near vegetables that grow directly in the soil.

3. Wash Your Hands!

This one is less about the produce than the person handling it. A gardener who's picked up the parasite can carry it into the plot without realizing. Soap and water before you harvest, and again before anything hits a cutting board, shuts that door. It's simple insurance for a habit you half-do already.

4. Rinse Crops Under Running Water

Rinse everything thoroughly under running water before it reaches a plate. There's no need to use soap or produce washes. Scrubbing firmer produce with a brush, like this OXO vegetable brush from Amazon, lifts more off the skin than a quick splash.

Rinsing lowers the risk but won't fully remove Cyclospora, which clings tightly – so treat it as one layer, not a guarantee.

5. Keep Harvested Crops Off Dirty Surfaces

Once picked, keep produce off the ground and away from tools or anything that's touched soil or untreated water. A clean basket or bowl beats resting the harvest on a potting bench. Those last few feet are easy to overlook, and a common spot for clean produce to pick up what it just dodged.

6. Store and Chill Promptly

Get tender crops into the fridge soon after picking. Greens and herbs hold up far better cold than sitting out, and berries too. Chilling won't kill Cyclospora – it just slows spoilage and keeps other bacteria from multiplying while the produce waits. One more thing: hold off on washing until you're ready to eat, since produce stored damp breaks down faster.

Extra Cover: Cook or Peel What You Can

Washing is the everyday line of defense, but heat and a paring knife go further. Cyclospora can't survive proper cooking, so anything that goes into a hot pan or the oven stops being a risk – handy for crops that work either raw or cooked, like kale or green beans. Peeling helps too, lifting off the surface layer where the parasite would sit. Neither does much for a fresh salad, so sourcing and a good rinse still carry the load for raw produce.

Spot the Symptoms

Cyclosporiasis usually surfaces about a week after exposure, and the giveaway is watery diarrhea that can come and go for weeks if untreated. Appetite tends to fade alongside it. Cramping and bloating are common, nausea comes and goes, and the tiredness lingers. Healthy adults often ride it out, but it tends to relapse, part of why it's treated rather than waited out.

A course of the antibiotic trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole usually clears it, so anyone with persistent watery diarrhea – especially with signs of dehydration – should see a doctor and mention the outbreak, since diagnosis needs a specific stool test that isn't run by default.

Frequently Asked Questions

Did you think the time to sow seeds for veggies was long over for this year? Many gardeners make that assumption, but there are several crops you can sow in July for a fall harvest. This is one of the best times to get a second round of vegetables for the season. The warm soil speeds germination, while the cooler temps of early fall are ideal for many crops.

A harvest of fall vegetables requires careful selection. Now is the time to sow seeds for quick-growing and cool-season veggies. Sowing now allows plenty of time for both options to grow into bountiful fall harvests.

Here are some of the best options for summer seed sowing and pro tips to help you get the most out of them.

1. Radishes

Radishes are among the fastest and most forgiving of all vegetables to grow. Depending on the variety, they can go from seeds to harvest in 25 to 40 days. You can probably get a few additional radish harvests this year if you start now. The later rounds will be even sweeter and crisper, as they develop and grow in cooler weather.

Sow radish seeds in beds, raised beds, or containers, as long as they are at least six inches (15 cm) deep. It’s important to keep the soil consistently moist as they grow to avoid cracked roots. If your July is very hot, wait until the end of the month to sow radish seeds. Find a wide variety of radish seeds from Burpee and try a few unique types you might have never tried before like Martha Washington's 'Early Scarlet Globe' radishes or watermelon radishes!

2. Carrots

Here’s another great root to start now for your fall harvest. Carrots started now will mature just as the first frosts of the season hit. This hit of cool triggers the starches in the roots to turn into sugars, giving you a very sweet fall crop. Carrots mature in 70 or 80 days. Park Seed offers a great selection of carrot seeds that will make a great addition to your veggie garden.

Raised beds are best for carrots, so they can develop full roots in good soil that is free of rocks. You don’t want to transplant them, so place the seeds where you want the carrots to grow. Keep the soil moist and thin the seedlings as they develop.

3. Beets

Yet another tasty root for fall harvests, beets can be sown now in the heat of midsummer and harvested between 50 and 70 days later, depending on the variety. They grow and develop best as the weather begins to cool. You can use raised beds, garden beds, or big containers to grow beets.

Thinning seedlings is particularly important for beets. Overcrowding interferes with root development. Make sure the soil stays consistently moist, or you risk woody roots. While waiting for the roots to mature, you can harvest and eat the greens. Burpee has some great heirloom beet seeds available including the unique and beautiful Chioggia beet!

4. Bush Beans

Bush beans are an example of a quick-growing veggie you can sow in July. They won’t do well in cold fall weather, but if you start now, you’ll get a good harvest before the first frost. Keep harvesting the beans as they develop to encourage ongoing production.

Bush beans germinate well in warm soil, and they grow fast, maturing in 50 to 60 days. You can grow bush beans in beds or in large containers as long as you can keep the soil moist. It’s especially important to water deeply while the plant is flowering. Heirloom Blue Lake bush bean seeds from Mountain Valley Seed Company on Amazon are high-yield and great for home gardens.

5. Kale

Kale is one of the most iconic of fall veggies. It can grow well into fall and even early winter, depending on your location and climate. While greens are known for being a little tough and bitter, kale sweetens nicely as it matures in cold weather and especially after a frost. Grow it in beds or large pots.

If you’re sowing seeds for baby kale, you can start harvesting after about 30 days. Botanical Interests has Red Russian kale baby greens seeds that are ready in 25 days! For mature kale, you’ll need 55 to 70 days. Keep harvesting the outer leaves as the kale grows. Keep soil moist and use mulch if necessary.

6. Spinach

Spinach also thrives in the cool weather of fall, and it grows fast, maturing in 35 to 50 days. You can harvest baby spinach in as little as 20 to 25 days. Because it’s such a fast grower, sow seeds every one to two weeks for regular fall harvests.

The heat of July can be a little tough on spinach, so start with varieties that don’t bolt readily and keep seedlings shaded in hot weather. Bloomsdale long-standing (bolt-resistant) spinach seeds can be found at True Leaf Market. Water regularly to keep the soil moist and cooler.

7. Brassicas

All of your brassicas can be planted now, including kale of course, but also broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower. They take between 80 and 100 days to mature, depending on type and variety.

The brassicas thrive in cooler weather, but they might need some help staying cool if your July and August weather is too hot. Keep the soil moist, use mulch, and use shade cloths as needed. Another option is to sow these seeds indoors now and transplant them outside when the weather has cooled a little.

Pro Tips for Maximizing Your Fall Harvest

Master gardeners get more out of their fall harvest with succession planting. Sow seeds every week or two instead of all at once. This staggers and extends your harvest time.

Sowing seeds in the heat of summer can be risky. Keep the soil moist and use a light mulch to keep it cooler. Consider using a shade cloth during particularly bad heat waves. Pull weeds as seedlings sprout and thin out crowded seedlings.

At the other extreme, if you get a cold snap in fall, use row covers to protect the more delicate vegetables. For most of these crops, a light frost actually enhances the flavor.

July isn’t the end of your growing season. For many fall crops, it’s just the beginning. Sow fast-growing, cool-weather plants now for fresh produce and an extended harvest this season.

Pick a handful of basil at seven in the morning and again at three in the afternoon from the same plant and taste them side by side. The morning leaves will undoubtedly taste better – sharper, more perfumed, the flavor sitting right up front. The afternoon leaves will likely be flatter, a little grassy, and missing whatever it was that made them worth growing. But nothing about the plant changed, only the clock did.

There is chemistry behind this change and it’s important to understand why flavor is so different depending on what time you harvest vegetables and herbs. Knowing how to harvest vegetables at the right hour turns out to matter about as much as knowing when plants are ready to pick. Water moves through a plant on a daily cycle. So do its sugars and the volatile oils that carry aroma, though not all of plants’ flavor peak at the same time.

Pick plants at the right point in the cycle and you’ll taste the difference. Harvest at the wrong time and the flavor will fall flat. I’ll share the best time of day to harvest some common vegetables and herbs for the peak flavor.

Why Flavor Changes

Overnight, a plant refills. With the sun down, transpiration more or less stops while the roots keep pushing water upward. So, by dawn, the cells are packed tight and under pressure. Pressure is what you're hearing when a cucumber snaps rather than bends.

Harvest a head of lettuce at first light and it will stay crisp in the fridge for days. Cut the same head at noon and it goes limp much quicker, having never had the chance to fill back up before harvesting.

Volatile oils follow their own schedule, too. In herbs, the compounds that carry aroma build up through the cool hours and start burning off as leaf temperature climbs, which is exactly what you're smelling when you brush past a rosemary bush on a hot afternoon. That perfume in the air is the flavor that has already left the plant.

Sugars run the opposite direction, accumulating through the day as photosynthesis does its work, which sets up a small conflict worth being aware of.

Plants That Change Flavor the Most

There are herbs that shift in flavor more depending on the time of day you harvest them. Basil carries its character in essential oils that thin out under direct sun, and mint, oregano, and thyme behave the same way.

Cut them early in the day when the oil content is at its peak. A pair of Fiskars micro-tip snips from Amazon makes clean cuts that don't crush the stem tissue, which can make herbs lose even more flavor – a mashed stem bleeds oils you were trying to preserve.

Then there are the leafy greens. Heat turns lettuce bitter. Warmth nudges the plant toward bolting and the milky latex sitting in those ribs results in bitterness in your salad.

Cucumbers pull a similar trick under stress, concentrating cucurbitacin. Corn is its own separate headache. Sugar in a harvested ear starts turning to starch right away and an ear picked in the heat of the afternoon does this quicker than one picked in the cool of the morning.

The Best Time to Harvest Veggies & Herbs

The best time to harvest herbs and vegetables is in the early morning, once the dew has dried, but before the sun has any real heat in it. Somewhere in that window – an hour or two after sunrise – is ideal.

The plant is at full turgor, the oils are still where they belong, and the tissue itself is cool enough that it won't start breaking down the moment it's off the vine. But wet foliage is something that needs to be avoided, too, since water sitting on cut surfaces invites rot in storage. So wait for dew to dry.

Get the harvest out of the sun quickly. A Fiskars harvest basket from Walmart lets produce be rinsed and drained in the same container into which it was picked.

For a big morning's harvest, a basic cooler chest from Target parked in the shade holds everything at temperature until it goes inside to your fridge. Field heat is the enemy here. Every degree a vegetable or herb carries into the kitchen means respiration eating its sugars.

Evening after the heat has broken makes a reasonable second choice for the best produce picking time. It’s better than harvesting at noon by a wide margin, and much better than not picking at all.

The Worst Time to Harvest Veggies & Herbs

Mid-afternoon on a hot day is the worst time to harvest. The plant has been losing water for hours, the leaves are slightly wilted even if they don't look it, and the volatile compounds have been cooking off since mid-morning.

Anything picked then arrives warm, soft, and already expending its own sugars to stay alive. Refrigerating produce slows that down, but it doesn't reverse anything. Once an herb's oils are gone, no amount of careful storage brings them back.

There is one complication, though. Because sugars build up through the day, some crops like carrots, certain tomatoes, and sweet corn can taste measurably sweeter when picked in late afternoon or early evening than when harvested at dawn.

Growers who care about sugar content sometimes pick at that time, accepting the wilt and cooling the harvest fast to compensate. But for the average garden, morning still wins, since crispness and aroma are what a home cook notices most.

Tomatoes ‘sweat’, in their own way. On a hot, muggy afternoon the plant is pushing water out through its leaves nonstop, and down where the foliage sits jammed against damp soil with nothing stirring, that moisture has nowhere to go. So it hangs around. Warm, dead-still air against a wet leaf – that's the setup fungal spores are hoping for, and usually where things go wrong.

The fix takes less work than it sounds. A good chunk of growing tomatoes well through a humid summer comes down to airflow, and airflow comes down to which leaves stay on the plant. Strip off the right few and the whole thing breathes easier. Add one cheap trick down at the soil line and a lot of the disease pressure that wrecks a crop never really gets going.

Why the Bottom of the Plant Is Key

A lot of tomato disease starts low and climbs. Those bottom leaves sit right over the dirt, and the dirt is where fungal spores ride out the winter. Then the rain comes, or the hose, and every drop hitting the ground flicks a little back up onto the nearest leaf. Early blight (Alternaria solani) and Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) both get around exactly like this – a few spots low down, some yellowing, then up the plant. Clear off that bottom tier and the splash lands on nothing.

Airflow is the other half. Let a tomato bush out on its own and it becomes this dense, shut-in tangle, the inside of it staying damp hours after the outer leaves have gone dry. Spores are fine with that. Thin it out, get some air moving through the middle, and the leaves dry off quicker once the rain or the dew lifts – and a dry leaf is just a lot harder for anything to get into. None of this means pruning your tomato plant bare, though – it just needs room to breathe.

The 3 Leaves to Snip

Not every leaf is earning its keep. Three kinds in particular cause more trouble than they're worth once the humidity sets in, and they're the ones to go after first. A clean cut close to the stem does it, and a pair of bypass pruning snips from Amazon makes flush cuts easy and spares the stem.

1. The Lowest Leaves

Start low and work your way up. Anything in that bottom 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30cm) is either touching the soil or hanging just over it – first to catch whatever splashes off the ground. And those are old leaves anyway, shaded out, not pulling their weight, stuck in the worst possible spot on the plant. Snip them flush to the main stem. Once the plant is established and setting fruit, a bare lower stretch of stem does it no harm.

2. Yellowing or Spotted Leaves

Any tomato leaf going yellow or growing spots has more or less run its course – and if those spots turn out to be disease, it's now a launch pad for more. Don't wait for pruning day to deal with them. Remove them the moment you spot them. A yellow leaf down low is often the first tip-off that something fungal has moved in, and getting it gone fast is cleanup and early warning rolled into one.

3. Crowded Interior Growth

Deep in a big plant, leaves stack on leaves and almost none of them get real light or air. That congested inner growth is where humidity hangs around the longest. Thinning a few of those interior leaves, along with any small suckers crowding the center, cuts a channel for air to move straight through. You want a plant with daylight showing through it in gaps, not a solid green wall.

The Secret Skirt Trick

Here's the part many people don’t bother with. Once those lower leaves are gone, lay a skirt around the base of the plant – a ring of mulch or a fabric barrier over the bare soil. It seems too basic to count for much. What it actually does is drop a physical wall between the soil, where the spores live, and the leaves above, so when water hits the ground there's nothing left to splash back up.

Straw works for this, so does shredded bark, and even newspaper under compost will do. Grab a couple bags of shredded mulch from Home Depot and a row is covered without much fuss. Want something you're not redoing every season? A roll of landscape fabric from Walmart does the same job and lasts years. Either way there's a bonus – the cover slows evaporation, so the soil underneath stays damper and more even, roots getting a steady drink while the leaves stay clear of the muck. There's one catch, though. Keep the mulch an inch or two (2 to 5cm) off the stem. Bank it right against the stem and it traps enough moisture to start rot.

The plant looks like it's doing everything right. Big yellow flowers cover it, new ones opening every morning, the whole thing sprawling and green. Then the little fruits behind some of those flowers start to swell, reach maybe an inch or two (2 to 5cm), and go soft, yellowing at the tip before they drop. It leaves nothing to harvest – just a run of false starts.

That collapse almost always traces back to one thing – pollination that didn't take. The basics of how to grow zucchini get a plant to the flowering stage without much trouble, but flowers on their own don't make fruit. Pollen has to move from the male blooms to the female ones, and in a hot summer that hand-off often just doesn't happen. The good part is that it's an easy gap to close by hand.

Why the Baby Fruits Just Quit

A female zucchini flower comes with a tiny fruit already attached, sitting right behind the petals before it has even opened. That little fruit is basically on standby. If enough pollen reaches the flower while it's open, the fruit gets the signal to keep growing. If it doesn't, the plant cuts its losses – the fruit yellows, softens, and drops, since there's no sense pouring energy into something that won't hold seed.

Heat is where it usually goes wrong. Each zucchini flower gives you one morning, maybe, and then it closes for good – so the window was tight even before the weather got involved. Now push things past 90F (32C). The pollen starts to give out, losing the viability it needs to do anything, and the bees that would've been working the patch mostly clear off until the heat lets up. Fewer visits, weaker pollen, and a lot of those morning flowers close again having never really been pollinated.

Telling the Male Flowers From the Female

It's easy to see the difference between male and female squash blossoms, once you know the tell. Look at the stem right behind the flower. A male flower sits on a plain, slim stalk – nothing behind the petals but stem. A female flower has what looks like a miniature zucchini bulging at its base, right where the bloom meets the vine. That bulge is the unfertilized fruit, and it's the whole giveaway.

There's a timing quirk worth knowing, too. For the first week or two, a young plant will often put out male flowers and nothing else, no females anywhere, and every summer this sends somebody into a mild panic. Nothing's wrong. The males just show up first, getting the pollen ready for whenever the females decide to open. Once both are opening on the same morning, you're in business – that's when hand pollination actually does something.

Hand Pollinating, Step by Step

Hand pollinating squash and zucchini requires no special gear – just a minute of your time, and maybe a soft artist's brush from Amazon if you want it tidy. Morning is the time, before the heat climbs, while the flowers are actually open and the pollen hasn't dried out.

1. Start with a male flower that's wide open, the anther in the middle loaded up with pollen. Snap it off the plant, stem and all.
2. Now strip it down – pull the petals back and off, until what's left is basically a pollen-tipped wand on a stem.
3. Find a female that's open (baby fruit behind the petals, remember) and touch that anther to the middle of the flower, brushing it lightly over every side of the stigma. A couple seconds does it, with no need to be precious about it.
4. Move on. One male flower usually carries enough pollen for two or three females, so work down the row while you're out there.

No males open that morning? A soft brush or a cotton swab covers the same ground – swipe it around inside a male flower, then carry that pollen over to whatever females are open. Cotton swabs from Walmart are cheap enough to use once and toss.

Getting the Bees to Do It for You

Hand pollination is a stopgap, useful but not something anyone wants to do forever. Better to get the bees doing the work again. Flowers blooming near the zucchini pull double duty here – a bee already out working the yard for nectar will swing through the squash blossoms on its rounds. And it's the mix that matters, not the count. Different bloom shapes, different colors, and you pull in a wider range of insects than any single kind manages on its own.

Cut back on the broad-spectrum insecticides, too, or just skip spraying entirely while flowers are open and bees are on them – plenty of those products wipe out pollinators right alongside whatever pest you were chasing. Set out a shallow dish of water with a couple stones poking up for landing spots. Bees need to drink, and one that drinks in your garden tends to stay in it. None of this amounts to much alone. Together, it's the difference between attracting bees for steady fruit and standing out there every morning playing bee yourself.

Keeping It from Happening Again

When heat is the real problem with your zucchini, the fix is shielding the plants through the worst of it. In a stretch of extreme temperatures, a bit of afternoon shade takes the edge off enough to keep pollen viable and bees active into the morning. A length of shade cloth from Home Depot rigged over the bed during a heat wave handles that without much effort, and it comes right back off once the weather breaks.

Timing helps as well. A deep watering early in the day keeps plants from stacking drought stress on top of heat stress, and a plant that isn't struggling holds onto more of its flowers. Beyond that, watch the forecast – when a run of 95F (35C) days is coming, that's the week to be out there in the morning with a brush, instead of hoping the bees push through weather they'd usually sit out.

July is when backyard tomatoes either take off or quietly fall apart. The plants are big by now, heavy with green fruit and pushing hard through the hottest stretch of the year – which is right when small problems snowball into season-enders. Blossom end rot sets in, skins split, and a fungal spot creeps up the lower leaves before anyone notices. Most of that traces back to a few tasks that get skipped in the heat, not to bad luck.

The good news is that ten minutes of attention now pays off for weeks. Anyone already comfortable with growing tomatoes knows the vines are forgiving up to a point, and midsummer is where that forgiveness runs thin. A little pruning, steady water, a nutrient nudge at the right moment – these are the moves that keep fruit setting through August instead of stalling out in a tangle of leggy growth and cracked skins. None of it takes special skill. It just takes doing it before the plant forces the issue.

What Your Tomatoes Need in July

The plants aren't asking for much in July, but the little they need, they need on time. Skipping a step doesn't show up right away – it shows up three weeks later as cracked fruit or a vine half-taken by blight. Ten minutes now buys a lot of tomatoes later, and better-tasting ones at that.

1. Low-Leaf Haircut for Airflow and Blight Prevention

When pruning tomatoes, start at the bottom. Those lower leaves touching the soil, or hovering just above it, are the first place blight and early leaf spot get a foothold – rain splashes soil-borne spores up onto them, and from there the trouble climbs. Stripping the bottom 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30cm) of foliage off each plant opens up airflow right where things sit stagnant and humid. It looks a little brutal the first time. The plant won't miss them.

Those low leaves aren't doing much photosynthesizing anyway, shaded out by everything above. Pulling them lets air move through the base and dries the zone out faster after a storm, which is half the battle with fungal trouble. Do it on a dry morning so the wounds seal before evening humidity settles back in. A clean cut or a clean snap, either works – just don't leave torn stubs that invite rot.

2. Consistency With Deep Watering

Tomatoes hate surprises when it comes to water. Deep, consistent soaking is what heads off blossom end rot and split tomatoes both, and the two problems actually share a cause – erratic moisture. When a plant goes bone dry and then gets flooded, the fruit swells faster than the skin can stretch, and it cracks. Calcium uptake stalls during the dry stretches too, which is what triggers that sunken dark patch on the bottom of the tomato.

The fix is boring, but it works. Water tomatoes deeply and less often, right at the base. A couple of long soakings a week beats a daily sprinkle that only wets the top inch (2.5cm). A drip line or soaker hose from Amazon takes the guesswork out of it, running slow and low so moisture sinks down to where the roots are. Mulch over the top of that and the ground holds even between waterings. That last part is honestly reason enough to mulch.

3. Midsummer Sucker Pruning

Tomato suckers are the little shoots that pop out in the crotch between the main stem and a branch. Left alone, especially on indeterminate types, they grow into whole secondary stems that eat energy the plant could be putting into fruit. Midsummer is prime time to stay on top of them, since the vines are growing fast and throwing new suckers weekly. Pinch them out while they're small – thumb and forefinger, no tools needed.

There's a limit to this, though. Determinate tomatoes set most of their crop at once and shouldn't be sucker-pruned much at all, since every growing tip counts toward the harvest. On indeterminate tomatoes, a light hand beats a heavy one in the heat. Strip too much foliage and you expose fruit to sunscald, those pale leathery patches that show up on shoulders baking in full sun. Take the obvious suckers, leave enough canopy to shade what's ripening.

4. Mid-Season Potassium Boost

By July, the early fertilizer is mostly used up and the plant is heading into its heaviest fruiting stretch. This is where a potassium boost earns its keep – potassium drives fruit development and flavor, and a mid-season side dressing keeps production from tapering off early. Skip fertilizing tomatoes with the high-nitrogen stuff now. Nitrogen at this stage just pushes leafy growth at the expense of the tomatoes already forming.

Side dressing is simple. Scatter a low-nitrogen, higher-potassium feed in a ring a few inches (7 to 8cm) out from the stem, scratch it into the soil surface, then water it in. Something along the lines of a tomato-specific granular fertilizer from Amazon does the job without much fuss. The plant picks it up over the following weeks, right as the fruit load peaks. Do it once now and most gardens won't need another round before the season winds down.

5. Reinforcing the Rigging

All that fruit has weight, and July is when supports start giving out. A cage that held fine in June leans under a fully loaded plant, and once a stem kinks or snaps, that whole branch of developing tomatoes is finished. Walk the row and look for strain. Maybe a stake has worked loose, or a tie is starting to bite into a thickening stem. Better to catch it before a storm rolls through and lays everything flat.

Loosen any ties that are cutting in and re-secure with something soft. Strips of old T-shirt work, or these adjustable plant ties from Amazon that don't dig into the stem as it thickens. Add a stake where a plant is outgrowing its cage, and tie in the heavy trusses so they're not hanging off a single joint. Ten minutes of reinforcement now saves a snapped main stem later, and there's no coming back from that one.

6. Snapping Off Key Growing Tips

This one's aimed at the tail end of the run, but it's worth knowing about now. Toward the close of tomato season – usually mid to late summer, depending on climate – snapping off the growing tips of indeterminate plants tells them to quit making new growth and ripen what's already there. Any flower cluster that opens past a certain point won't have time to mature anyway, so the plant does better funneling that energy into the fruit already hanging.

It's called topping, and it can be the difference between a pile of green tomatoes at first frost and a properly ripe haul. Cut or pinch the top few inches (7 to 8 cm) off each main stem, just above the highest cluster worth keeping. Everything gets redirected downward. In shorter-season areas it's close to essential; in long, warm climates there's less urgency, though it still helps concentrate flavor late in the year. Miss July, and tomatoes coast. Get it right, and they produce like they’ve got something to prove.

The idea is appealing: you let your plants “make friends” in the garden by planting different plant species close to each other so that they can offer identifiable benefits to one another. Often, the goal is to keep insect pests at bay. Sometimes one plant benefits; sometimes the benefit is mutual. And sometimes – all too often – the “pairing” doesn’t work well at all and pests overrun the protected plant.

It’s frustrating when companion planting doesn’t live up to its hype. But what’s a gardener to do? There’s a smarter strategy we’re excited about that scientists suggest will do a much more efficient job of keeping those insect pests from your favorite plants. We call it scent clustering, and we’re here to tell you about it.

Say Hello to Scent Clustering

In traditional companion planting, gardeners are urged to match a pest-repelling plant with a plant to be protected – and do this repeatedly throughout the garden. If you're new to the concept, then it's worth picking up a copy of The Old Farmer's Almanac Vegetable Gardener’s Handbook from Amazon.

The idea is to have the aromatic plants that pests don’t like scattered individually throughout the garden, close to the plants to be protected. Think of them as dancing, two by two, around the ballroom of the garden.

Scent clustering abandons this “one-on-one/two-by-two” approach. Instead, we can create a protective “wall” against insect pests by grouping tough, aromatic plants together. Experts suggest that this makes a more effective barrier against insect pests than interspersing them throughout the garden.

Why Scent Clustering Deters More Pests

Have you ever noticed that the corner of the garden with two or three fragrant plants has a stronger, more compelling scent than an area with only one? In my garden in France, I have a rose bed filled with only fragrant cultivars, and recently added a jasmine vine on the fence behind it. The combined scent seems three times as powerful as the roses alone.

Grouping aromatic plants also amplified the effect of the scent – and it can be much more effective at deterring pests. Clustering strongly scented plants together may create a stronger "chemical landscape" that can help mask crop scents or confuse pests. Part of this is attributable to VOC communication.

As highlighted in this scientific study, plants release Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) in response to insect attacks. This VOC release is a way that plants communicate with neighboring plants. When insect-damaged plants communicate their situation, the undamaged plants nearby increase their own defenses – like aromatics – as if they were being attacked themselves.

Best Plants for Scent Clustering

Fragrant plants are the Amazons of the garden. They add beauty and joy but also bring the muscle to fight off insect pests. In addition to keeping pests away with their scents, aromatic herbs and flowers attract beneficial insects. Fragrant and aromatic plants release essential oils with volatile organic compounds. The VOCs communicate with other plants but also confuse insects, making it hard for them to find food.

Some plants have scents that bugs really cannot stand. These aromatic plants include: garlic, green onions, parsley, orange nasturtiums, chives, lavender, rosemary, basil, marigolds, and alliums. Others that make the list as effective for scent clustering are wormwood, scented geranium, santolina, and tansy. Creating a “wall” of the strongest aromatic pest confusers like yarrow, anise hyssop, onions, garlic, and mints in gardens helps keep pests away.

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Where to Position Scent Clusters in the Landscape

Generally, scent clusters of aromatics work best as perimeter planting. If you group them too near the vegetable garden, they can interfere with your crops' growth. Instead, create a pest-repellent hedge or aromatics around orchards and vegetable patches.

It also works well to plant pungent aromatic herbs near pathways in the garden. Their effectiveness increases when they spill over onto paving. The warming paving warms the foliage too, releasing the fragrant plant oils.

Succession Planting to Keep Scent Clusters Going

Now that you’ve identified your strongest aromatics and installed them in mixed clusters in the garden, the last thing you want is to have that “wall” crumble as the shortest-lived plants die back. As you lose plants, the scent diminishes, and the effect on insect pests also goes down.

The key to keeping the scent clusters going is succession planting. You may have already started with succession planting in the vegetable garden. Basically, this means you don’t just sow and forget. Instead, you sow rounds of seeds one after the other, to keep new crops coming in all summer long. This works especially well for crops like lettuce that grow fast and can get eaten fast. Instead of ending up with hundreds of heads of lettuce at once, you end up with a smaller amount that ripen sequentially.

You can use succession planting for your aromatic herbs as well. Whichever ones you decide to plant, just keep sowing the seeds every week or every other week to keep the herbs coming.

Plenty of lettuce quits the moment summer heat settles in, bolting tall and turning bitter before the salad season really gets going. But a few varieties were bred to hold their nerve, and those keep cutting well past the bolt.

Come July, the lettuce patch tends to be the first corner of the garden to fall apart. Leaves that were sweet and crisp back in May go bitter, the plants shoot up tall, and a flower stalk pushes from the center. Heat is the trigger. That whole stretching-and-flowering routine is bolting, and once it starts there's no going back.

Not every lettuce bolts that fast, though. The different lettuce types vary a lot in how much warmth they'll take before they turn, and a handful were bred specifically for it. Pick one of those, hand it afternoon shade and steady water, and you can keep cutting salads while the spring crop bolts and dies back.

When Heat Turns Lettuce Bitter

Lettuce is wired for cool weather. Once daytime temperatures stay in the 80s (around 27-32C), the plant takes it as a cue to reproduce, so it throws up a thick central stalk headed for flower. That's the bolt. Long summer days nudge it along too, which is why the closer you get to midsummer, the faster a susceptible variety goes.

As the plant stresses, the sap in the leaves goes milky and the flavor slides from crisp to flat-out bitter — sometimes before any stalk even shows. Germination drops off in the warmth as well, with seed often failing to sprout once the soil creeps past about 80F (27C), so a midsummer sowing may not come up at all. None of which is the end of it. It mostly comes down to which variety goes in the ground, plus a break from the afternoon sun.

6 Lettuce Varieties That Take the Heat

These are the ones that keep producing when the thermometer climbs. Most are loose-leaf or Batavian lettuce types, which run to seed slower than tight heading lettuce, and all turn up through the usual sellers.

1. Jericho

Bred in the Israeli desert, Jericho lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. longifolia) was made for exactly this problem. A tall green romaine, it stays sweet and crisp at temperatures that turn most romaines sour, and it's slow to send up a stalk even with the heat on.

Keep the moisture steady and it forms big upright heads. Take the whole thing or pull leaves a few at a time. Super Jericho seeds from the Home Depot make it easy to get.

2. Nevada

For raw durability, not much beats Nevada. A Batavian type — summer crisp on some labels — it's still Lactuca sativa var. capitata, with thick glossy leaves gathered into a loose head. It holds up to both heat and a sudden cold snap, and stays mild long after softer types would have soured. It regrows after a cut, too, so one planting goes a long way. You can find Nevada lettuce seeds at Walmart.

3. Buttercrunch

Most butterheads collapse in the heat. Buttercrunch is the exception that's kept it on seed racks for decades — a butterhead itself, Lactuca sativa var. capitata. An All-America Selections winner, it keeps that tender, buttery rosette later into warm weather than its relatives and resists bolting longer than most. It wants steady water and a bit of afternoon shade once things warm up. You'll find it nearly everywhere, including plenty of buttercrunch seed from Park Seed.

4. Black-Seeded Simpson

Black-Seeded Simpson (Lactuca sativa var. crispa) ranks among the fastest, most forgiving lettuces you can sow. The light, frilly leaves are ready in roughly 45 days, which lets you slip a harvest in ahead of peak heat and keep resowing through the season. It isn't the most bolt-proof name here, but the speed covers for that. You're eating it before it gets the chance to turn. Burpee has black-seeded Simpson seeds for a good price.

5. Red Sails

Color is what sets Red Sails apart, though the staying power is the bigger draw. The bronze-red ruffled leaves — another looseleaf, Lactuca sativa var. crispa — are slow to bolt and slow to sour, and that red pigment seems to screen it from strong sun. It's an All-America Selections pick too, a cut-and-come-again grower. Strip the outer leaves and it keeps producing for weeks instead of finishing at once. You can grab a packet of Red Sails seeds off Amazon.

6. Slobolt

The name does the explaining. Slobolt (Lactuca sativa var. crispa) was bred to resist bolting, and it holds for weeks after other loose-leaf types have shot up and gone bitter. The leaves come light green and soft, mild enough to eat young and cut again as they regrow. It sometimes turns up on store shelves less often than the others, so finding Slobolt lettuce seeds rom the Thresh Seed Co. store on Amazon is more reliable.

Expert Tips

Lettuce will hang on longer in summer if you take a little pressure off it.

• A bit of afternoon shade makes a big difference, especially once temperatures stay high.
• Keep the soil from drying out completely—lettuce hates that stop-and-start stress—and throw down some mulch if you’ve got it.
• Cut their leaves early in the morning while they’re still cool. They taste better, and the plant doesn’t seem to mind the harvest much.

I know what you're thinking. Vegetables? In July? Have I finally succumbed to the heat? Please, hear me out.

By July, many gardeners are convinced they've missed their window to sow vegetables for the year. After all, with temperatures soaring across much of the US, it's easy to assume the planting season is winding down.

But don't retire your trowel just yet, as July can actually be an excellent time to sow a surprising number of vegetables. Warm soil encourages rapid germination, and many heat-loving crops positively relish midsummer conditions? And better still, several can be harvested within just a few weeks.

A winning formula, as I'm sure we can all agree.

Plant These 7 Easy Heat-Hardy Vegetables in July

Of course, exactly what you can grow will depend on your local climate and USDA hardiness zone. Gardeners in hotter regions may need to provide extra irrigation or afternoon shade, while those in cooler northern states can often continue sowing well into late summer.

That caveat in place, then, these seven vegetables are among the most reliable choices for July planting across much of the US. Ready, set, sow!

1. Bush beans

Say it with me, people: bush beans. Bush beans are honestly one of the easiest vegetables to sow in midsummer. They love warm soil, germinate quickly, and many varieties will begin producing tender pods in as little as 50 to 60 days.

July is also ideal for succession sowing, allowing gardeners to stagger harvests and enjoy fresh beans right through to fall. Sow seeds directly where they are to grow and keep the soil consistently moist while seedlings establish.

Try something like these Gold Mine Bush Bean Seeds from Burpee if you want very high yields of crisp, ultra-sweet wax beans (and, quite frankly, who doesn't?).

2. Summer squash

If you're looking for quick results, summer squash is hard to beat. Zucchini and yellow squash thrive in hot weather and can start producing fruits in as little as six weeks.

Given enough sun, water, and space, these famously prolific plants often produce more than enough for even the most enthusiastic gardeners.

Just remember that regular harvesting is essential (some stricter gardeners may even call it a non-negotiable, but you are your own boss in my world), as it will encourage plants to continue cropping throughout the season.

3. Cucumbers

Cucumbers adore summer heat. When planted in July, they often grow rapidly thanks to warm soil temperatures and long daylight hours.

Direct sow seeds in a sunny spot and provide a trellis if possible, as vertical growing improves airflow and can help reduce disease issues.

Remember: consistent watering is essential, especially during hot spells, as drought stress can lead to bitter fruits (not ideal if you want a tasty sandwich or salad).

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4. Swiss chard

Many leafy greens struggle in summer heat, but Swiss chard (the standout star of my own scrappy little vegetable plot) is a notable exception.

This colorful crop is considerably more heat tolerant than lettuce and can continue producing nutritious leaves well into the fall. Just take care to harvest outer leaves regularly and plants will keep producing fresh growth for months.

In warmer regions, some gardeners are even able to harvest Swiss chard through winter. Go for Bright Lights Swiss Chard Seeds from Burpee, and get ready to eat your very own homegrown rainbow.

5. Okra

For gardeners in the South, July and okra go hand in hand. This heat-loving vegetable thrives when temperatures climb and often performs best during the hottest weeks of summer (happily, it tastes amazing all year round).

Even gardeners outside traditional okra-growing regions are increasingly discovering its merits as summers become warmer. Sow something like these Clemson Spineless Okra Seeds from Burpee in full sun and harvest pods while they are still young and tender for the best flavor and texture.

And when you cook up a storm with them, be sure to invite me over for dinner. I'm a fiend for okra.

6. Black-Eyed Peas

Don't let the name fool you – southern peas, aka black-eyed peas – are some of the toughest vegetables you can sow in the heat of summer. In fact, they often perform better in July than they do in cooler weather, making them an ideal choice for gardeners in warmer parts of the US.

Yes, you guessed it; these drought-tolerant legumes germinate quickly in warm soil and typically begin producing pods within 60 to 70 days. As an added bonus, they also help improve soil health by fixing nitrogen, benefiting the crops you plant after them.

Give them a sunny spot, water while they're getting established, and they'll happily take the summer heat in their stride.

7. Beets

In cooler and northern regions, July is an excellent time to sow beets for a fall harvest. Warm soil encourages speedy germination, while cooler temperatures later in the season help roots develop excellent flavour.

Both the roots and leafy tops of these nifty little veggies are edible, making beets a particularly great crop for small-space gardens. Go hard or go home when you grow yours (and by grow hard, I mean plant something like these Detroit Supreme Beet Seeds from Burpee). You won't regret it.

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So there we have it, folks! If you thought July meant the end of vegetable sowing season, think again.

Honestly, with the right crop choices, you could still be harvesting homegrown produce within weeks – and setting yourself up for a productive late-summer and fall garden.

Roll on the homegrown goodies, I say!

I’ve been a gardening editor for longer than I want to admit, and I’ve been growing tomatoes from the start. My work has meant I’ve been lucky enough to visit goodness knows how many nurseries and talk to a gazillion professional growers, and I’ve hoovered up tips and tricks the whole time. So believe me, I’ve tried out way more than my fair share of professional hacks in pursuit of a perfect crop of juicy toms that keeps on coming all summer long.

And yes, as a regular Instagram scroller, I’ve tried out plenty of unprofessional tips too. Honestly, quite a few of both types turned out to be absolute hogwash. Some had the potential to be downright deadly (here’s looking at you, baking soda making tomatoes sweeter). But a few actually worked.

Heeding tomato care basics such as supporting and pruning tomato plants will bring you a decent initial crop of tomatoes. But here’s the thing: if you want to keep tomato plants producing plenty of tomatoes as the weather gets hotter, foliage and fruit become more susceptible to disease, and sap-sucking insects move in, you need some extra tricks up your sleeve. These days, I only raise six tomato plants each summer because I’m confident – thanks to my trial and error testing of all those hacks – that I can keep them producing bumper crops of toms for months on end. And just look how many tomatoes those few plants produce.

These are those expert tomato growing tips, so you too can harvest more than ever before.

1. Basil Supports Tomato Plant Health

You’ll hear all sorts of hype about companion plants when growing tomatoes, and mostly they’re used either to attract beneficial bugs or deter pesky ones. But there’s one companion plant that does things a little differently and it's an absolute must, because basil directly increases tomato yield by as much as 20%. Scientists have shown that basil releases volatile compounds that prime a tomato plant’s defense mechanisms. So, if a tomato plant is attacked by pests or disease, if it’s got a wingman basil plant growing next to it, it’ll react to that threat faster and more robustly.

Research proves that growing basil alongside a tomato plant helps it grow stronger roots, too, that allow it to cope better with drought and heat. Basil also helps to attract pollinators and deter pests, and even makes fruit taste sweeter.

There are around 150 types of basil and for the full benefit, it’s best to grow a few varieties. Greek basil (Ocimum minimum) is the variety used in the stress-reponse study and seeds are available from Amazon. Purple basil (Ocimum basilicum var. purpurascens) has an intense aroma so is particularly effective at repelling pests, and seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Lemon basil (Ocimum x africanum) is the variety used in the study that found basil can improve tomato flavor perception, and seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

2. Banana Peel is Full of Potassium That Tomatoes Need

You’re likely feeding your tomato plants every 10-14 days with a liquid fertilizer that’s high in potassium, like this Espoma Organic Tomato Feed from Amazon. Plants need many nutrients for healthy growth but broadly speaking, nitrogen promotes leaf and stem growth, phosphorus aids root development, and potassium helps flowers and fruit form; these are collectively known as the NPK ratio.

And as luck would have it, banana peel is super-high in potassium, and you can use it to give plants an extra boost with a mild, slow release of nutrients. Some people mix chopped-up banana peel into the compost at the base of planting holes when moving tomatoes outdoors. I choose to make a supplementary banana peel tea whenever the opportunity arises, steeping a couple of chopped-up peels in a quart-jar of water for three or four days, then pouring the strained tonic onto the soil, diluting first if it looks strong.

Banana peel also contains a small amount of calcium, which helps prevent blossom end rot (which causes those leathery black patches on tomato bases), and trace elements that support photosynthesis. Importantly, it doesn’t have any nitrogen, so won’t fuel leafy growth.

3. An Electric Toothbrush Improves Pollination

Tomato flowers need to be pollinated before they can set fruit. Happily, each flower contains both male and female parts so all that needs to happen is a little movement to shake the pollen free from the male anther cone and onto the female stigma. If you’re growing tomatoes outside then buzzing insects and the wind will naturally ensure this little jiggle happens. But, if you’re raising your toms on a kitchen windowsill or in a greenhouse, your plants could probably do with a little pollinating help.

Flowers can increasingly fail to pollinate as summer temperatures heat up, too. Once daytime temperatures are above 90°F or if it's over 70°F at nighttime – and remember, greenhouses can be far hotter than the air outside – pollen can become too dry or sticky to easily be distributed. Those flowers that dry up and drop off your plants? They're likely to be the blooms that failed to pollinate and, as the season progresses, you’ll see an increasing number of these on each truss.

Unless, of course, you employ an electric toothbrush to deliver that essential buzz. Hold the back, non-bristly side of the toothbrush head gently against the stem directly above each flower for a couple of seconds, when conditions are dry. Tomato flowers only have a 50-hour window for pollination so, to get full trusses across all your plants, you’ll need to do this every two days. You can buy super-cheap rechargeable electric toothbrushes such as this from Amazon, so don’t even consider using your own!

Shading plants in a greenhouse from the midday sun will also help pollination rates. Opt for 40-50% sunblock so plants still get plenty of sun to photosynthesize, with a shade cloth like this from Amazon, and position it so it only blocks the strongest overhead midday rays.

4. DIY Drip Irrigation is a Game-Changer

Let’s be honest, how regularly do you water your tomato plants? Most toms are on a rollercoaster ride between saturated and dry soil, and one of the most important things you can give a tomato plant while it’s fruiting is consistent moisture. Any big swings in soil moisture stresses plants, leads to blossom end rot, and cracked, split fruit. A dehydrated plant may also drop its flowers.

Drip irrigation systems are great, but there are lots of other, cheaper ways you can stabilize soil moisture between waterings or rainfall. I’ve DIYed drip irrigation systems from upcycled pop bottles, and you can see how I made them here.

I now also use clay LECA balls such as these from Amazon as pot-toppers to regulate moisture, and I DIY sunken water reservoirs alongside my bigger tomato plants to mimic how ollas (like these from Amazon) work. Mixing coconut coir such as this from Amazon into the soil is another way to help it hold onto an excess of water then release it slowly.

Yes, I water just as often, but the soil is delivered to my plants far more evenly and that means they’re far less stressed. It also means that I can go away for the weekend without having to ask my nosy neighbor to water my precious toms, so I'm far less stressed, too.

5. Stopping Feeding is as Important as Starting Feeding

We all know we need to feed our tomato plants to produce lots more fruit, and to start as soon we spot the first flowers. But when do you stop feeding? Because if you carry on feeding too long, you encourage the plant to pointlessly keep on growing rather than directing its energy into ripening the existing fruit.

You should stop feeding around a month before your first expected frost, or once nighttime temperatures start to dip below 50°F. At this point, snip off the top of the main growing stem(s) too, known as ‘topping’. This stops the plant growing upwards and forces it to direct all its energy into ripening its existing trusses of tomatoes.

For years, I’ve collected vintage gardening books, scouring thrift stores, flea markets and yard sales in my search for interesting tomes. The gorgeous illustrations, faded covers, poetic words and fancy lettering – even the scent of the old paper pages: these old books have a charm of their own. But, as well as being beautiful, I've discovered they’re also an amazing source of gardening tips that are still incredibly relevant to vegetable growers and gardeners today.

These old books are packed full of the type of gardening wisdom that used to be handed down the generations as family members gardened together side-by-side. So many of us move away from our roots these days, and this sort of inherited knowledge is easily lost along the way – which is why I find vintage books such a rich source of advice and guidance. Dipping into my vintage library is rather like having the voice of a kindly grandparent passing on their gardening wisdom and experience as you grow.

It's the expert tips about growing vegetables that I've found most useful – and I guess, back in the day when everyone grew their own supplies, a decent dinner rested on such expertise. I hope you find these old grow-your-own tips as useful as I have…

1. Water Seedlings From Beneath

'When your seedlings are well through and need watering, hold the box in a bath of water till moisture appears on the surface. Dip it in very gradually or you will disturb the soil.'
The ABC of the Greenhouse by W.E. Shewell-Cooper, published 1947 English Universities Press Ltd

I've tried this out myself with trays of tiny seedlings, and it’s a great way to irrigate seedlings. It drenches the roots without damaging the fragile plants or disturbing their roots. Sadly, I don’t have a vintage zinc bathtub to hand, so I use a large flexible plastic tub. Despite being less aesthetically pleasing, it works like a dream.

2. Twist Plant Ties to Cushion Stems

'The Wrong Method of tying' vs 'The Right Method of Tying'.
The Alphabet of Gardening by T.W. Saunders, published 1926 by W.H.&L. Collingridge

Since I spotted this tip, I always use this clever way of tying when I support plants such as tomatoes or runner beans with a stake. For a start, the twist means the tie stays put rather than sliding around, and this method holds the stem slightly more firmly for better support. But the really clever bit is that the twist acts as a little cushion, protecting the stem from rubbing against the support.

3. Shade Your Tomatoes

‘Strange though it may seem, heat is the great enemy of tomatoes under glass, especially those in a small greenhouse which may become like an oven on a July midday. For this, a little shade is a great help.’
The Vegetable Garden by E.R. Janes, published 1954 Penguin Books

Last summer in my greenhouse, I scorched my poor baby tomato plants to a crisp, so this tip is something I wish I’d read sooner. Burnt brown leaves, shrivelled flowers – it was a sad, sad scene of devastation. Learn from my mistakes and shade your greenhouse if you're growing tomatoes in a hot zone: treat your greenhouse with shading compound spray or fit a temporary fabric shade to protect your little toms from the sun.

4. Ripen Onions Faster

'The ripening of onions is hastened by bending over the tops with the handle of hoe or rake.'
How to Grow and Produce Your Own Food by Charles Boff, published 1946 Odhams Press Ltd

If you're growing onions, you'll know the frustration of waiting for them to ripen, and their tops to naturally fall over and brown before harvesting your crop. This tip is so simple to do, but so effective. It's particularly handy if you’re trying to harvest your crop quickly in order to clear space for another.

5. Encourage Dense Cabbage Hearts

‘A loose cabbage can be encouraged to heart-up by making a vertical cut in the stem and wedging this open with a piece of stick.’
How to Grow and Produce Your Own Food by Charles Boff, published 1946 Odhams Press Ltd

I have to admit that I haven't tried this trick yet, but I will be putting into practice soon in the community veg patch I help out at. We're growing cabbages at the community veg patch I'm involved with, and some are looking decidedly lack-lustre and floppy. This method looks pretty extreme, but it might just be their saving.

6. Banish Carrot Fly

‘When carrots are thinned out, soil should be pressed back around the remaining plants by treading or with the back of the rake. This is to discourage the destructive carrot fly which seeks to lay eggs in loose soil.’
How to Grow and Produce Your Own Food by Charles Boff, published 1946 Odhams Press Ltd

I've been growing carrots for years, and before I read this little gem of gardening expertise, I had no idea that carrot flies laid their eggs in loose soil. It’s a pest I’ve struggled with in the past, so lesson learned.

7. Remove Diseased Leaves Fast

'Whether tomatoes occupy the greenhouse alone or if they have to share it with many other plants, the greatest cleanliness should be practised. Diseased plants should go to the furnace – quickly. Dead leaves should be removed from the house’
The Vegetable Garden by E.R. Janes, published 1954 Penguin Books

Every now and again I give my greenhouse a good clean out, sweeping up the stray potting soil from the paving slabs and turning a jumble of flowerpots into an orderly stack. But the hygiene aspect of immediately removing none-too-healthy leaves from my tomato plants? I didn't once think about the fact that quietly ignoring them was encouraging pests and disease to multiply. And at the end of the season, I was guilty of throwing dead or diseased plants onto the compost heap.

Now I know that a little greenhouse clutter is forgivable, but I need to prioritise keeping my plants tidy.

8. Add Borage to Drinks

‘(Lemon) Balm is used by both our cook and butler. The cook mixes it with other herbs in various ways, and the butler puts it along with borage in summer drinks.’
Garden Herbs by George E. Whitehead, published 1942 by Adam & Charles Black

Sadly I do not have a butler or a cook, but I consider this tip highly relevant to gardening as I do like to make a refreshing drink after a session in the veggie patch on a hot summer's afternoon. I can now vouch that adding lemon balm leaves to a mojito cocktail is a genius idea, as is scattering a few borage flowers on a G&T for a pretty finishing touch.

Oh what a beautiful morning! It’s a great feeling and a great song. But the lyrics are sufficient to convince you to leave corn out of your small garden design. Yep, that’s the song that says “The corn is as high as an elephant’s eye, and it looks like it’s climbin’ clear up to the sky.”

Now that’s a lovely image, but it doesn’t work in a small, urban garden. Combine that with the common wisdom that you need multiple rows to get the plants pollinated, and growing corn gets crossed off the list of garden tasks.

But – to stick with the lyrics theme – “the times they are a-changing.” Today there are several dwarf species that might work well in the backyard garden. We’re here to introduce you.

The Problem with Growing Traditional Corn

Fresh corn on the cob is one of the garden crops emblematic of summer! You pick the largest ears in the garden, pluck them, shuck them, then roast them over the fire. A large ear of ripe corn is almost a meal itself.

But typically, gardeners with small backyards don’t plant this crop. The individual plants tend to grow taller than you are, and some species can achieve a height of 14 feet (4.5 meters) tall. That’s just not practical for someone with an urban garden. Even a few plants would shade out lower sun-loving crops like tomatoes and peppers, and you’ll need more than one or two.

Because all types of corn are largely wind-pollinated, with the breeze carrying pollen from the tassels to the silks, the ideal is to plant corn in block formations. This system increases the chances of pollen reaching the silks. Even if you plant corn tight, an 8-by-8 block will take up at least 21 feet (7m) squared.

New Stalks on the Block

Today, corn in the backyard garden is no longer a pipedream. Several types of corn have been developed that are small enough to grow in a regular, behind-the-house garden. Some corn can be grown in a container on a sunny patio! One is a Burpee special called On Deck Hybrid. The other is a dwarf variety known as Blue Jade Dwarf Sweet Corn.

1. On Deck Hybrid Corn

Burpee has done it again. They’ve developed the first-ever sweet corn you can grow in a container. It’s known as On Deck Hybrid, and specimens never grow above 5 feet (1.5m) tall, yet the delicious, bicolor ears grow to 8 inches long.

This tasty breakthrough bicolor variety grows well on containers. You can plant 18 seeds in a single, 24-inch (.6m) container on your patio. The stalks grow fast, with each one producing two or three ears - while also adding that vertical interest your deck needed. And it’s speedy! The time from planting to grilling is only two months. You can find On Deck corn seeds from Burpee.

2. Blue Jade Dwarf Sweet Corn

Neither you and I would select a corn variety because we like the color of the ears, but I've got to say that the deep silver-blue kernels of Blue Jade Dwarf sweet corn is utterly lovely. They start out white but mature to a steely blue. That blue deepens even more once the corn is cooked. And these ears of blue corn taste as good as they look.

Blue Jade Dwarf sweet corn really are dwarf plants, never growing taller than 4 feet (1.3m). Low-growing and reliable - with each stalk producing two ears - Blue Jade take about 80 days after planting to mature. Harvest the ears when they are blue with a little light-yellow in the kernels. Cobs can only be called cuties, each one about half the size of a standard ear of sweet corn. You can find Blue Jade seeds from Hudson Valley Seed Co.

Other Dwarf Corn Options

There are other dwarf corn options out there that you might want to consider, each with its own characteristics. All of these varieties stay under 5 feet (1.6m) tall and mature in 80 days or less.

• Early Sunglow. Did you know that some corn is sugar-enhanced? Early Sunglow is a dwarf variety that contains a sugar enhancer gene that makes the kernels sweeter and more tender. It’s a dwarf yellow corn that grows 5-6 inch ears with sweet, tender kernels. Count on 60-65 days to mature. Find Early Sunglow corn seeds from Ferry-Morse.
• Bodacious. Bodacious is even smaller than Early Sunglow, the stalks topping out at 3-4 feet (1-1.3m) tall. It's a miniature yellow hybrid corn that grows ears between 6 and 8 inches. Seed to harvest is about 10 weeks. You can find Bodacious sweet corn seeds from Park Seed.
• Peaches & Cream. Here’s a pretty dwarf corn plant. Peaches & Cream is really lovely, growing to 4 feet (1.3m) with bicolored kernels - bright yellow and white. The ears are 7 inches long and take 11 weeks to mature. Peaches & Cream sweet corn seeds can be purchased from Ferry-Morse.

June is a big month for tomatoes. Right now they should be putting out tons of new branches and leaves, their stems should be thickening, and the first flowers and fruit should appear soon. But if your tomato leaves are turning yellow this early in the season, then it’s crucial to figure out the cause and treat the problem fast.

Yellow leaves on tomatoes can occur for a variety of reasons. Some of them are no big deal and easy to fix. But if others are left untreated, they could have serious implications on your plants for the rest of the season. Your harvest could be much smaller or even nonexistent, depending on the severity of the problem.

Whatever the issue, though, there is a solution. But the first step is identifying the problem. I’ll walk you through the three most common causes of yellow tomato leaves in June and how to deal with each of these complications.

1. Nutrient Deficiencies

The most likely cause for yellow leaves on tomatoes in June is a nutrient deficiency. Tomato seedlings often turn yellow before you even transplant them into the garden because they’ve used up all the nutrients built into the seeds from which they sprouted. That’s why it’s important to fertilize tomatoes in June, especially if you didn’t give them a dose of fertilizer when you transplanted them into the garden.

Often leaves turn yellow when there is a nitrogen deficiency in the soil – nitrogen is what stimulates lots of green, leafy growth. But phosphorus and potassium are also key for producing lots of fruit, so you don’t want to overdo it with the nitrogen in order to get green leaves at the expense of actual tomatoes. Though, a potassium deficiency can cause yellowing around the edges of your tomato leaves as well.

Iron and magnesium deficiencies can also cause yellowing leaves on tomatoes. But rather than the entire leaf turning yellow, these nutrition problems exhibit themselves in different ways. Iron chlorosis causes the leaves to yellow and the stems to remain green. A magnesium deficiency causes leaves to take on a yellow, splotchy appearance.

The best course of action is to first do a soil test – this quick and easy at-home soil test kit from Home Depot is a great option for immediate results – before choosing a fertilizer for your plants. A one-size-fits-all fertilizer is not ideal, especially if your plants are already turning yellow. A simple soil test will tell you exactly what nutrients your tomatoes are lacking and guide you to choose the proper plant food for your particular plants.

2. Diseases

A variety of different tomato diseases can cause leaves to turn yellow. In June, the most likely diseases to impact your plants are:

• Early Blight
• Late Blight
• Septoria Leaf Spot
• Leaf Mold
• Bacterial Spot
• Fusarium Wilt
• Tomato Pith Necrosis
• Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus

The best way to both prevent these diseases is to provide proper tomato care. Do a soil test before planting and amend your soil based on those results. Water plants at the base to prevent splashback onto leaves, which can spread diseases. Provide consistent irrigation so plants are not stressed and more vulnerable to disease. When pruning tomato plants, always clean your pruners between each plant to prevent disease spread.

As an extra precaution, especially if you’ve encountered any of these diseases in previous years, choose disease-resistant tomato varieties to grow in your garden. Botanical Interests is a great source for disease-resistant tomato seeds. Or you can shop disease-resistant tomato starter plants from Bonnie Plants.

3. Herbicide Drift

Another cause of yellow leaves on tomato plants is herbicide drift, however, this is much less common. Still herbicides can travel via the wind for up to a mile and harm your tomato plants, causing them to twist, turn yellow, and become stunted. This issue is more likely if you live near a commercial farm, but it can still occur in any neighborhood.

If you use herbicides in your landscape, never apply them on a windy day and try to stay as far away from your tomatoes as possible. Ideally, you should hand-pull weeds with a tool like Grampa’s Weeder from Walmart, which works wonders on the dandelions in my yard. You can also try a safer organic weed control method instead, so you don’t accidentally harm your own plants.

Herbicides are also sometimes present in low-quality soil mixes, composts, and mulches. That’s why you should sometimes be careful when using free mulch, free compost, or free garden soil. If possible, find out the source of the material to ensure it does not contain unwanted herbicides that can ruin your garden.

Planting tomatoes in spring is important, but don’t underestimate the importance of caring for your plants in June. If you start good tomato-care habits now, you’ll get better quality fruit more fruit, and a plant that lives longer.

When you are growing tomatoes, you can’t rest on your laurels in June. Early summer is a critical period for tomato plants as they develop from green leaves into summer fruits. Don’t worry – the tasks are not complex.

The top five things you need to do for tomatoes in June are simple actions like giving them water, fertilizer, a support system, mulch and a haircut.

What Tomatoes Need in June

For tomatoes to be happy campers, they need a proper growing location where they get at least 6 hours a day of direct sunlight each day and moist, well-draining soil. If you planted in May, upkeep starts in June. Here are the five most important tasks to keep those plants healthy and growing.

1. Provide Support for Tomato Plants

If you have young kids, you know that sense of shock when you see how fast they grow. One minute they are babes in arms; the next minute, it seems, they are riding a bike. The same is true for your tomato plants in June.

Tomato plants shoot up amazingly fast. In early June, it’s time to set up a support system for them. By late June, the plants are too heavy and tangled to move them around. What happens if you don’t support them? They can drag on the ground, bend, develop disease, and even snap. Great support options include modular tomato cages, stakes, and trellises.

This snap-together system, available from Amazon, is a personal favorite of Gardening Know How Senior Editor Liz Baessler. If you have waited too long to install a traditional cage, you can just build this modular system around your plants with no fuss!

2. Water Deeply and Regularly

Think of cutting into a big ripe tomato; it’s full of juice! That suggests that you can’t grow tomatoes without regular water. While all young tomato plants need moist soil, tomatoes require even more water in June as temperatures rise.

For June irrigation, regular deep watering is the rule. It encourages deeper, stronger root systems and better drought resistance. Water slowly and deeply, putting the water around the roots of the plants, never overhead. Installing a drip irrigation system like this Rain Bird watering kit from Amazon is easy to do and will keep your tomatoes perfectly watered, even while you're on vacation. Watering early in the morning is ideal so that the leaves will be dry well before nightfall. Wet foliage at night is a recipe for fungal issues.

How often should you water? You want to irrigate at least once a week, but you might need to water more frequently if the weather is hot and dry. The idea is to keep the soil consistently moist. Going from very dry to very wet will cause your fruits to crack.

3. Add Mulch Around the Base of Plants

One way to help tomatoes hold moisture in the soil is to apply mulch. This is particularly important as summer temperatures rise. Spreading a few inches of mulch around the base of each tomato plant will also suppress weeds and keep the roots cooler.

Mulching also prevents soil from “bouncing” up onto foliage when it rains, an event that results in soil-borne diseases to spread to the lower leaves.

When mulching in June, remember to keep the mulch an inch or so from the main stem. What to use for mulch? Some good choices are straw, pine needles, compost, and shredded leaves.

4. Clip Out Lower Leaves to Improve Airflow

It’s hard to imagine when you are planting your crops, but, by June, tomato plants often become thick and crowded. The lush leaves reduce airflow and increase the risk of fungal disease as the weather grows warmer. Fungal diseases spread fast when leaves remain wet for long periods, the air is stagnant, and plants are overcrowded.

So take your snippers and prune your tomatoes in June. Focus on leaves that touch the soil, and leaves that are yellowing. This will allow more air to circulate, reducing humidity around the plant. It also helps prevent soil-borne diseases from splashing into the lower tomato leaves.

5. Monitor for Early Pest and Disease Problems

What happens in June? People get married, we celebrate the summer solstice, and tomato pests and common tomato diseases first begin appearing. With careful monitoring, you can get out ahead of the problems and avoid severe infestations later in the summer.

What are you looking for? Any signs of bug damage, including yellowing or wilting foliage, spots on leaves, or chewed leaves. You should also note any and all bugs, including aphids, hornworms and whiteflies. Treat these critters ASAP with diatomaceous earth. Be sure to only use food-grade diatomaceous earth, which can be found on Amazon, so that you can enjoy your tomatoes safely.

When it comes to diseases, fungal diseases are on the top of the list. Think about early tomato blight and Septoria leaf spot. Treat diseases when spotted, and take steps to prevent diseases in the future, including watering early in the morning, trimming leaves that touch the ground, and spacing the tomatoes appropriately.

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and fast growers. During June, they enter a stage where they need proper support, balanced watering, airflow, and regular maintenance to continue growing strong through the hottest part of summer.

Your pepper plants in June might not look like my pepper plants in June. That’s because the date for planting pepper seeds indoors and the date for transplanting them outdoors will vary quite a bit depending on your climate.

However, anyone who is growing peppers this summer will need to take some of the same basic steps in June. These are not complicated vegetables. If you give them a site with the proper amount of sunlight, the appropriate soil, and sufficient water then you are likely good to go.

So here are five essential tasks that you need to do for pepper plants, at any stage, in June.

What Your Pepper Plants Need in June

Hello, summer! You’re just starting to enjoy being outdoors which is a lucky thing, since June is a big month in the garden. Here’s what to do with your pepper plants now for a huge harvest later in the season.

1. Give Them Plenty of Water

This is not a shocker. All young vegetable plants need water. No matter where you live in the United States, June weather will be warmer than May, April, or any of the previous months of the year.

June signals the beginning of summer, with more sun and hotter days, which sends peppers’ water requirements to the top of the to-do list for June. This is true whether your plants are recently transplanted seedlings or established plants.

All pepper plants need water, across all of the growth stages of their lives. Young seedlings need soil that is always moist, but they will die in soggy soil. Give transplanted seedlings a deep, slow watering two or three times a week, depending on weather. A drip irrigation kit from Home Depot, like this one Content Editor Laura uses in her own garden, is a great way to give peppers consistent irrigation at the source.

You want to encourage those young pepper plants to send their roots deep into the soil. Deep roots mean greater drought tolerance. Established plants require 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of water per week, ideally through drip irrigation.

2. Make Sure They Get Enough Sun

Yes, some vegetables are happy to grow with more shade than sun – think lettuce – but peppers are not among this crowd. They grow fast and require many hours of direct sunlight every day to produce those crisp and luscious fruit.

Insufficient sunlight means tall, leggy plants and poor pepper crops. One of your June pepper tasks will be to check on their sun quotient and do what’s necessary – whether that's clearing branches above them to transplanting, if necessary – to provide enough sunlight.

How much sun do peppers need? As much as possible. That is, peppers require at least 6 hours per day of direct sun and won’t complain if you give them up to 12 hours. The ideal situation for a pepper plant is a site that gets direct morning sun and a bit of afternoon shade rather than no morning sun and full afternoon sun, which can cause sunscald on peppers.

3. Watch for Pests

The June weather is so nice that the whole family spends more time outside in the backyard. But you aren’t alone. A variety of common pepper pests also like the early summer weather. They show up in the garden, happy and hungry. The golden rule for dealing with pests in the garden is to catch them early. That makes it easier to get rid of them.

The pests you are likely to see in June may depend on where you live. But almost everywhere there are aphids, European corn borer, corn earworm, and pepper maggot. Aphids form colonies on pepper plant leaves, often on the underside, and such out the sap. The other three insect species will damage the fruit.

Monitoring for pests means inspecting those pepper plants every week or even twice a week. Look on the undersides of the leaves for aphids, use yellow sticky traps like these from Amazon, and search for signs of damage. Neem oil, which you can also get from Amazon, is effective on all of these pests as well.

4. Pinch Out Early Flowers

This is a hard one for some gardeners, including me! But it’s a proven fact that pinching out early flowers on pepper plants is a good strategy over time. Early flowers suck energy from the plant during a time when they should focus on developing strong roots and foliage.

Pinching out those blossoms will make your plants more vital and healthier. It can also mean that you’ll get more peppers from each plant. It also puts the brakes on premature pepper fruiting and gives the plant a chance to mature before producing peppers.

5. Add a Protective Layer of Mulch

Mulch is kind of magic. It protects the roots of the plants from temperature spikes and drops, putting a buffer between the soil and the elements. Mulch can also hold moisture in the soil, especially in the hot sun, and reduce the risk that soil-borne pathogens that splash up on the lower leaves of the pepper plants when it rains.

What type of mulch should you use? Pick something natural, a product that will disintegrate into the soil over time. This organic wood mulch from Back to the Roots is a good option. I also like leaf mulch, straw, or grass clippings for peppers.

Be sure that the mulch doesn’t actually touch the stems of the plants or else this can cause fungal diseases. While you are laying the mulch, take the time to clip out the lowest-hanging leaves, too. This is another way to reduce soil splashing.

June is here and that means for most gardeners across the US, it’s time to transplant your tomatoes. Transplanting time is also the perfect moment to give your tomatoes a boost with their first dose of fertilizer for the season.

Maybe you live somewhere warm and you’ve already put your tomatoes in the ground or you live in the far north and you’re still waiting for that final frost date. Either way, whether you’ve already moved your plants into the garden or that’s on your to-do list for this weekend, now is the ideal time to fertilize tomatoes.

But before you start feeding your favorite vegetable, it’s important to understand exactly what kind of fertilizer your tomatoes need at this stage in their lifecycle. It’s also vital to apply fertilizer in the right way to ensure your plants get the biggest benefit and you don’t accidentally set back their growth.

I’ll walk you through how to fertilize tomatoes in June for a huge harvest this summer. Plus, I’ll reveal the biggest tomato feeding mistake that can potentially ruin your plants for the rest of the season.

Do You Have to Fertilize Tomatoes in June?

June is a great time to start fertilizing tomatoes. Most gardeners begin transplanting tomatoes outdoors between mid-May and mid-June. The exact date varies depending on your growing zone and last frost date in spring.

But by mid to late June, almost everywhere in the contiguous US should be free of frost, which means it’s safe to plant your tomatoes outdoors. When you transplant your tomatoes outdoors, you should also give them their first dose of fertilizer.

Benefits of Fertilizing Tomatoes in June

Fertilizing tomatoes in June at the time of transplanting or just after planting tomatoes outdoors gives them a head start that will benefit them for the rest of the summer. It helps them establish a healthy root system that will set them up for strong growth the rest of the summer. Fertilizing in June also provides them with a much-needed boost of nutrients that will help them transition from indoor growing to thriving outdoors in the garden.

If you started tomatoes from seed, by June, your seedlings have likely depleted all the nutrients that were stored in the original seed. Most seed starting mixes don’t include much fertilizer – if any at all – so by the time your seedlings are big enough to transplant, they are in need of more nutrients.

Fertilizing tomatoes in June, just after planting, replenishes your plants with necessary nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other micronutrients they need to thrive. If your tomato seedlings are turning yellow, that’s a clear sign that they need a dose of fertilizer when you transplant them.

How to Fertilize Tomatoes in June

The easiest way to fertilize tomatoes in June is when you transplant them into the garden. There are two ways you can do this. The first way is to amend the soil in each individual hole. After you dig the hole for each tomato plant, add a dose of a slow-release organic fertilizer. My favorite tomato fertilizer is this one from Jobe’s on Amazon. Follow the instructions on the package for the proper dosage. Then mix the fertilizer into the surrounding soil and plant your tomato.

The other way to fertilize tomatoes at planting is to amend the soil in the entire area where you plan on putting your tomatoes. Again, use an organic slow-release granular fertilizer that will gently feed your plants all season. Follow the recommended dosage on the package for the size area you need to cover. Then use a rake or one of my favorite gardening tools, the Garden Weasel from Amazon, to incorporate the fertilizer into the soil and plant.

Water plants after you finish transplanting your tomatoes to help spread the nutrients to your tomatoes’ roots. Always water plants after fertilizing and transplanting to help them settle into the soil and prevent transplant shock.

If you’ve already transplanted your tomatoes into the garden and forgot to fertilize, don’t worry – it’s not too late. You can apply a side dressing of an organic granular fertilizer to your plants now to give them a boost. Simply sprinkle the recommended amount around each plant and gently use your fingers to mix it into the soil. Don’t get too aggressive with this or you could damage some of the roots. Next, water in the fertilizer to help it seep down into the roots.

Alternatively, you can use a liquid tomato fertilizer like this organic option from Espoma. Mix the recommended dosage for your number of plants into a watering can and drench your plants at the soil line. After the first dose of fertilizer for the season, keep reapplying your organic fertilizer of choice every two to four weeks or follow the directions for the specific plant food you use.

Don’t Make This Feeding Mistake

Feeding tomatoes in June can give them a huge boost that will serve them well during the peak of the summer growing season, but there’s a common fertilizing mistake that can actually set back plants. You should never fertilize plants during the heat of the day.

Fertilizing tomatoes in the middle of a hot June afternoon is a recipe for disaster. It can cause fertilizer burn on plants and scorch the foliage they need to capture the sun for photosynthesis to grow. Young plants, especially newly transplanted ones, are most at risk of fertilizer burn and leaf scorch.

The best time to fertilize plants is in the morning. This allows time for any excess water that may get on foliage to dry before the end of the day. That’s important because wet leaves invite many common tomato diseases. So give your plants a dose of fertilizer in the morning some day this month for an even bigger harvest of tasty tomatoes later on in the summer.

Tomato Fertilizing Essentials

If you’ve been staring at seed packets thinking you’ve missed your window, I’ve got good news: it’s absolutely not too late to start growing your own veggies. In fact, you can plant quite a few vegetables in June, especially if you choose the right fast-growing crops.

Yes, while spring often gets all the attention in gardening guides, early summer is where things really take off in much of the US. Soil temperatures are warm, daylight hours are long, and seedlings can establish quickly without the risk of late frosts in most regions, all of which is great for anyone hoping to start a vegetable garden.

At this point in the season, it’s less about perfection at this point and more about getting seeds in the ground and letting nature do its thing. If you’re gardening in USDA zones 3-6, then, you’ll want to focus on quick crops and varieties with shorter days to maturity, since your growing season is tighter. And in warmer USDA zones 7-10? Well, you’ve got plenty of time to succession sow and extend your harvest well into late summer and early fall.

Try Planting These Vegetables in June

If you want to plant vegetables in June, you need to do more than choose vegetables that just survive heat and longer days; you want them to thrive in them. Fast germination, quick harvest windows, and repeat picking crops are your best friends right now.

So if your garden beds are still empty or your containers are only half-planted, don’t worry. These are the vegetables to sow right now for a bumper harvest before summer is over...

1. Bush Beans

Best for USDA zones 3-10, bush beans are one of the easiest and most reliable summer crops. They germinate quickly in warm soil and can be harvested in as little as 50–60 days. And, in warmer zones, you can actually keep sowing every few weeks for a continuous crop right through summer.

Try something like these Early Bush Italian Bean Seeds from Burpee if you want a robust plant that yields early with zero support.

2. Zucchini

Few vegetables feel more like summer than zucchini (so long as you are based in USDA zones 3-10, of course). Plant something like Burpee's Best Squash Seeds directly into warm soil and you’ll often see harvest-ready fruit within 6-8 weeks.

Just be warned – once they start producing, they really don’t stop.

3. Radishes

If you are planting vegetables in June with almost instant gratification in mind, then radishes are the answer. Some varieties are ready in as little as 25–30 days, making them perfect for filling gaps in your garden or container beds.

Shop Radish Seeds:

4. Cucumbers

Ideally suited to USDA zones 4-10, cucumbers love heat and long daylight hours. In June, the soil is more than warm enough for fast germination, and plants will quickly start vining.

Choose bush varieties if you’re short on space or growing in containers; something like these Bush Champion Cucumber Seeds from Burpee will work perfectly.

5. Lettuce

While traditional lettuce can struggle in peak summer heat, loose-leaf and heat-resistant varieties do much better. If you are based in USDA zones 3-9, in fact, they are great vegetables to plant in June, so long as you sow in partial shade and keep well watered for continuous picking.

Naturally, the Heatwave Blend Lettuce Seeds from Burpee knows how to keep its cool when things get hot, hot, hot.

6. Carrots

Carrots might be slower than other crops on this list, but June sowing still works beautifully. In warmer regions, choose shorter varieties for quicker harvests, and keep soil consistently moist to aid germination.

Bag yourself a packet of The Old Farmer's Almanac Heirloom Carrot Seeds and get sowing.

7. Basil

Basil is one of the easiest and most rewarding herbs to grow in summer, and June is actually a prime time to sow it in most US regions. It thrives in warm soil and plenty of sunlight, making it perfect for containers, raised beds, or a sunny kitchen garden.

Sow seeds (like Seed Needs Basil Seeds) directly once temperatures are consistently warm, or start indoors and transplant if your season is shorter. Regular harvesting encourages bushier growth, and the more you pick, the more it produces. Just keep it well watered, as basil will quickly wilt in dry heat but usually bounces back fast.

8. Pumpkin

Pumpkins might feel like a crop you should have planted months ago, but June is actually a brilliant shout if you want yours ready for picking come October 31st. They need space, sunshine, and a long growing season, but they’re surprisingly forgiving once established.

Sow seeds directly into mounds or large garden beds, or choose compact varieties if you’re short on space. In warmer USDA zones (6–10), planting in June can still easily lead to a full harvest by autumn, just in time for Halloween and seasonal cooking.

The Jack O Lantern Pumpkin Seeds from Burpee are best for carving.

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With the right crops, you can still plant vegetables in June. In fact, a few seed packets, some warm soil, and a bit of patience are all you need to turn an empty patch into a productive kitchen garden before summer even thinks about winding down.

Ready, set, grow!

You’ve likely seen all the stories about sprinkling baking soda on compost to supposedly sweeten your homegrown tomatoes. But does it actually work? Well, we hate to bust a good myth, but the truth is that it could kill your plants. There is, however, a genius use for baking soda that will help your tomato plants grow strong and healthy. Ready for the facts? Let’s get into it!

Does Baking Soda Sweeten Tomatoes?

The idea behind using baking soda to grow sweeter tomatoes is that this pantry staple is naturally alkaline, so adding it to the compost will reduce the acidity of your crop. In real life, that simply doesn’t happen. Sprinkling bicarbonate of soda onto soil around tomato plants won't affect the taste of the fruit.

It could, however, do a lot of harm. Tomatoes naturally prefer to grow in slightly acidic soil and if conditions become too alkaline, plants are unable to take up some nutrients, and that can cause leaves to yellow. What’s more, baking soda is a salt so using too much of it can stunt plants, cause them to wilt, and even kill them.

So the answer is a resounding no. Don’t use baking soda on tomato plants in an attempt to grow sweeter fruit. It doesn’t affect the taste and you could kill your plants. If you have the slightest concern about the pH of your soil, use a Soil Test Kit such as this from Amazon, and find out exactly what you’re dealing with before you do anything to amend it.

What Does Sweeten Tomatoes?

The sweetness of tomatoes is mostly down to the variety, and how much sun the plants get. Super-sweet cultivars are usually cherry, grape or baby plum tomatoes, as these have a higher concentration of sugars. The amount of sunshine also has a say, as plants photosynthesize sunlight to produce carbohydrates that convert to natural sugars. It’s not so much that more sun grows sweeter tomatoes, but that an absence of sun results in a blander taste. If a tomato is to develop its optimal flavour, the plant needs to be basking in a minimum of six hours of sunshine a day.

Another factor that affects how tasty your tomatoes are is the overall health of your plants. The first step in growing flourishing tomato plants is to pick a variety that's well suited to the conditions you’re growing them. Choose the exact right cultivar for your situation, whether that's a windowsill pot, a patio container or a veggie patch, and you’re already halfway to the tastiest toms in town.

How Can I Use Baking Soda to Help My Tomatoes Thrive?

While baking soda doesn’t help a jot to sweeten tomatoes, it’s incredibly effective at preventing fungal diseases in tomato plants. So effective, in fact, that it’s recommended as a preventative by the US Department of Agriculture.

The magic formula is to mix a heaped tablespoon of baking soda with a level teaspoon of vegetable oil, stir in a squirt of liquid dish soap, then dilute with a gallon of water. Pour into a simple plastic spray bottle such as this from Amazon and spray onto leaves every 7-14 days. The solution works by increasing the pH of the leaf surfaces which makes it more difficult for fungal spores to survive.

Ensuring good airflow around your plants, watering the soil rather than the foliage, and being able to recognise common tomato diseases so you can take swift action before they spread, will also help.

Does Baking Soda Deter Pests as Well as Disease?

Baking soda irritates soft-bodied pests such as slugs, snails and ants so, if you’re growing tomatoes in pots or grow bags, you can sprinkle some on the ground around them to deter these critters.

However, ants are rarely a problem on tomato plants and their presence can actually be helpful, alerting you to an aphid infestation. If you spot ants crawling on the leaves or stems, they’re likely feeding on the sweet liquid that aphids secrete. And aphids do damage tomato plants. Have a close look at the undersides of the leaves and if you find aphids, apply neem oil such as this from Amazon.

Dilute the neem oil according to the instructions and only spray in the evening once plants are out of the sun to avoid scorching.

Ants may also bore into splitting and over-ripe tomatoes, but it’s far easier to simply water more consistently and pick your toms more regularly than it is to control the ants. And if you really don’t want ants on your tomato plants, then a good smear of petroleum jelly – yes, the basic stuff you smear on chapped lips that you can buy for less than $4 on Amazon – around the main stem is a much more effective barrier than baking soda.

While slugs and snails do love to snack on young tomato seedlings and will happily snaffle up fruit that sits on the soil, they don’t often trouble mature plants. If you find they’re a problem then there are better ways to deal with them than using baking soda. Sluggo, available from Amazon, is based on iron phosphate which occurs naturally in soil, and is safe to use around pets and other wildlife. Or simply use a natural treat that these critters adore even more as bait, then rehome the pests far away from your tomato plants. I find that using cucumber slices to deal with a slug problem is the most effective method of all.

What Works Way Better With Tomatoes Than Baking Soda?

If you want to grow tastier, healthier tomatoes and enjoy an abundant harvest, the single best thing you can do – after the basics of sunshine, consistent watering and weekly feeding with a liquid fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato Food, available from Amazon – is to plant basil alongside.

Using basil as a companion plant for tomatoes has a number of proven benefits: it helps tomato plants grow stronger roots and respond faster to stress such as pests and disease; and it attracts pollinators and deters pests. That all combines to increase tomato yield by around 20%. And guess what? Planting basil makes tomatoes taste better, too. Yes, the holy grail of more delicious tomatoes – and that's a fact, backed up by research from the University of Florida.

While we all love a TikTok gardening hack, sometimes it's better to stick to science.

SUMMARY

• Baking soda doesn’t sweeten homegrown tomatoes.
• An excess of baking soda can harm and even kill tomato plants.
• A diluted solution of baking soda, vegetable oil and dish soap is effective at helping to prevent fungal disease on tomato plants.
• Baking soda can act as a deterrent to slugs, snails and ants, but there are more effective ways to deal with these pests.
• Planting basil alongside tomatoes is the best way to increase and improve your crop.

By June, many of us are spending more time admiring our container gardens than tending to them. Pots overflowing with petunias, calibrachoa, herbs, and tomatoes are one of the easiest ways to add color and interest to a yard, patio, or balcony, and yet...

Well, and yet as temperatures climb, they can also become incredibly thirsty. Unlike plants growing in the ground, container plants have a limited amount of soil available to them, which means they dry out much faster – making them especially needy during hot spells.

If you've ever found your containers looking limp and wilted by the afternoon despite watering them the day before, though, you're certainly not alone. Sometimes, keeping them hydrated just isn't enough; rather, it's about watering at the right time of day and using the right technique.

The Best Time To Water Container Plants

Timing is everything, especially when it comes to potted plants. And, according to Gardeners' World presenter Monty Don, the best time to water your container-clad beauties is early in the morning, before the sun has had a chance to heat up the soil and foliage.

"Particularly if they're in a container so they do need watering much more often than normal," he explained. "In fact, every day when it's as hot as this and, if you can, the best time to water your container is early morning before the sun warms up."

For most gardeners, that means aiming to water sometime between 6 a.m. and 9 a.m., depending on your climate and local temperatures. Watering during the cooler part of the day gives plants time to absorb moisture before the heat arrives, helping them cope better with the stress of hot afternoons.

If an early start isn't realistic, Monty recommends waiting until the evening rather than watering during the hottest part of the day.

"If you can't get it done early in the morning, don't do it during the middle of the day – wait till the evening. Basically, when it's cool."

Midday watering isn't necessarily harmful (although it can result in scorching, depending on the weather), but it's often less effective. High temperatures and intense sunlight can increase evaporation, meaning less moisture reaches the roots where plants need it most.

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if you're going to put in the effort to figure out the best time to water your container garden, you should also know that how you water can have a huge impact on the health of your plants.

Now, many gardeners make the mistake of giving containers a quick splash every day. While this dampens the soil surface, it doesn't encourage roots to grow deeper into the pot where moisture lasts longer.

"The rule of watering is always the same – soak, don't sprinkle," Monty says, which basically means you should water slowly and thoroughly at the base of the plant until water begins to drain from the holes at the bottom of the container.

"Water directly to the roots of the soil or the compost and go on until the water is running out of the bottom of the container," Monty explains, noting that this deep watering approach ensures the entire root ball is moistened, helping plants become more resilient during periods of heat and drought.

There is no real hard and fast rule when it comes to how much water your container plants will need; check the soil and see how dry it is to figure things out (although remember that smaller containers and hanging baskets may dry out much more quickly).

Once you know the best time to water your container garden, life is easy; just soak them when it's cooler and wait for your pots to gift you a colorful, and productive display right through the hottest days of summer. Win!

Picking out a Halloween pumpkin from a store or farm is such fun, so just imagine how exciting it will be to grow your own! And early June is the exact right moment to sow seed if you want your pumpkins to mature just in time to carve jack o’lanterns for 31 October.

Growing pumpkins for Halloween is straightforward, even if you’re a beginner gardener, and everything you need to know to get great results is right here. You can direct sow seeds straight into the ground where your plants are to grow, too, so there’s no faffing around with hardening off seedlings. And while it’s true that pumpkins are typically big plants, there are compact varieties small enough to grow in any garden, even in a pot.

As long as you prepare the planting hole properly, you’re diligent about watering and feeding, and not dead-set on growing record-breakingly big fruit, then it’s fine for vines to trail over gravel or hard surfaces rather than soil, too – so you don’t need to give up too much garden space.

And just wait till you see those first pumpkins starting to swell – you’ll be as happy as a kid out trick or treating! Ready to grow your own pumpkin for Halloween? Here’s what to do…

1. Choose Your Pumpkin Variety

These are my recommendations for the best pumpkin varieties to grow at home.

Best Pumpkin for Easy Carving

The classic variety to grow to carve jack o’lanterns is – you guessed it! – ‘Jack O Lantern’. This is a reliable grower and you can expect good-sized, well-rounded vibrant orange fruit of around 18-24 pounds. The vine grows 12-18 inches tall and spreads to 72 inches, and takes 110 days to mature. The skin is straightforward to carve and the flesh is super-tasty in a pumpkin pie, so don’t throw away what you scoop out.

Best Pumpkin For a Fun Jack o'Lantern

This ghostly pale variety is ‘Lumina’ and they’re fun to paint as well as carve. Or why not press a few flowers over the summer then glue them onto the pumpkin skin for beautiful table decor? 'Lumina' pumpkins are smaller, weighing around 10lb, and faster to grow, maturing in 80-90 days. This vine also grows 12-18 inches tall and spreads to 72 inches, and has tasty flesh.

Best Pumpkin for a Small Garden or a Pot

‘Cherokee Bush’ has a bushier habit, growing 14-24 inches high and, though vines spread to 48-58 inches, it doesn’t sprawl like some other varieties. That makes it an excellent pumpkin to grow in a pot, though it’s going to need to be a big container such as this resin half-barrel planter from Lowe’s. If you’re growing a few plants, then a cheaper option is to use fabric grow bags such as these from Amazon, or a small raised bed like this, also from Amazon. Whatever you choose to grow it in, capacity needs to be a minimum of 15 gallons, preferably more.

Maturing in 100-110 days, ‘Cherokee Bush’ grows lots of smaller pumpkins around 5-8 pounds, and the yellow flesh is tasty in a pie.

Best Pumpkin for Unusual Fall Decor

‘Sanchez’ has wonderfully lumpy skin so it’s a super witchy, warty addition to Halloween decor. Pumpkins grow to 4-6 inches across but you’ll get plenty as this vine grows to 12-18 inches high and spreads 120-144 inches. It matures in 95-105 days.

With long vines and small fruit, ‘Sanchez’ can also be grown vertically in a raised bed planter with a sturdy trellis such as this from Amazon. You’ll need to tie in the vine to the trellis – cut-to-length reusable Velcro plant ties, available from Amazon, are the easiest option. You may also need to support the fruit, and retired pantyhose is the very best material for this job!

2. Pick a Sheltered Sunny Spot

Pumpkin plants need warmth and sun, so choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunshine a day and is sheltered from cold winds.

Make sure you have enough room for the vines to spread, though it’s fine to coil them around and keep them in place with bamboo canes pushed into the ground. Pumpkin vines do put down additional roots wherever the stems touch soil, to access additional nutrients and water, but as long as you provide a good supply of those, it’s okay to let them stretch over gravel or paving. Just watch that water doesn’t pool beneath or stems and leaves get scorched by the heat from paving, though sliding a plank of wood underneath easily solves such issues.

3. Prepare the Soil

Pumpkins are hungry plants and while they need plenty of moisture, they hate to sit in soggy soil. Ensure your soil is both fertile and well-draining by digging a hole that’s around a foot wide and deep and mixing compost – homemade or shop-bought such as this Life Cycle Organic Compost from Amazon – into the soil.

If you’re growing your pumpkins in a pot or planter, fill with any multi-purpose potting mix such as Back to the Roots All-Purpose Potting Mix, available from Amazon.

4. Sow Seeds

Now we’re in June, the soil temperature is warm enough to sow seeds directly into the ground. Pumpkin seeds are big and easy to handle, so simply push them into the soil, around an inch deep. They do have a tendency to rot, so sowing them on their side will help prevent this.

Sow two or three seeds for each plant you want to grow, keep moist and, once they sprout in a week or so, carefully pull out the weakest so you’re left with the strongest seedling. Do pay attention to planting distances recommended on the seed packet as these are big plants.

Pumpkin seeds need temperatures of at least 60°F to germinate so, if you live in a colder zone or have an exposed garden, staking plastic cloches such as these from Amazon over helps keep conditions cozy. You can make your own by upcycling 2-litre clear plastic bottles, cutting off the bases and pushing your homespun cloches into the soil.

5. Protect From Pests

Slugs and snails love to snack on juicy young pumpkin plants so because you’re sowing directly outdoors, you need to have some protection in place. I find the most effective method is to provide food that these slimy critters like even more, and set out cucumber slices to catch them.

Squash vine borers and cucumber beetles are also a threat, and the best way to guard against these is a floating plant cover such as this from Amazon. You’ll need to remove this once your plant starts flowering to allow bees to pollinate the blooms, so fruit can set.

6. Water Well

Unsurprisingly, these big plants need plenty of water. It’s important to water the soil rather than getting leaves wet, so a handy aid is to sink a plant pot into the ground alongside the spot you sowed your seeds. Direct the hose into this when watering and moisture will be delivered straight to where it’s needed most. This also helps you know just where the plant center is, as that can get confusing once there's a lot of foliage.

Mulching the soil will help to conserve moisture and keeps out weeds that will compete for water. Use homemade compost or a natural mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch, available from Amazon, and keep it away from the central stem to avoid rotting.

7. Feed Plants in a Container

If roots have restricted access to nutrients in a planter, then they’ll need feeding. The time to start feeding is when you first spot baby pumpkins starting to swell at the base of flowers. Don’t worry if you get a few flowers first that don’t turn into pumpkins. Pumpkin plants grow male and female flowers. It’s the male flowers that appear first on long thin stems, followed by female blooms closer to the vine – and it’s these females that will grow into pumpkins once bees have transferred pollen over from the male flowers.

Feed with a water-soluble liquid plant food that’s high in potassium, such as this pumpkin fertilizer from Amazon, every two weeks. There’s no need to feed pumpkin plants growing in the ground as long as you prepared the soil well, and aren’t trying to grow enormous fruits.

8. Care for the Fruit

Pumpkins sitting directly on damp soil are likely to rot, so place a piece of wood, a tile or a nest of straw beneath them if necessary. These fruit need plenty of sun to ripen so, once pumpkins reach full size, remove any leaves that are shading them.

9. Know When Your Pumpkins are Ready to Harvest

Your pumpkins are ready to harvest when their skin has lost its sheen and hardened, so press a fingernail into the skin to test: if you can scratch the fruit, leave it to ripen a while longer. Tap the fruit with your knuckles, too – a ripe pumpkin will sound hollow.

As long as you keep the stem intact when you harvest your pumpkin, it will keep well, so don't worry about harvesting early. Bring your homegrown pumpkins indoors to a sunny greenhouse or conservatory and let them cure for a couple of weeks, and the skin will harden further so they can be stored for up to six months.

And you know what that means, don't you? You can have homegrown pumpkins for Christmas as well as Halloween!

Growing beets is akin to conjuring rubies from the soil – both are valuable and unimaginably beautiful. Beets have a leg up over rubies, however, as these delicious roots are nutritious and way more accessible than precious gems.

Beets – also known as beetroot – are beloved for their deeply earthy roots and tender, flavorful greens, making them a versatile addition to everything from fresh salads and pickles to hearty stews and sautés. Native to the Mediterranean, where wild versions once grew along coastal salt marshes, beets have been cultivated for thousands of years for both their leaves and roots.

These popular root vegetables thrive in cool, sunny, and moderate growing conditions. Similar to growing carrots, beet seeds can be sown either in early spring for a summer crop or in late summer for a fall harvest. For anyone starting a vegetable garden, they’ll be blessed with a beautiful harvest of both vibrant roots and delectable greens. This combination of ease and culinary versatility makes beets a great crop for beginner and experienced growers alike.

Quick Beet Facts

What Is a Beet?

A beet is an enlarged root of the Beta vulgaris plant. It is a cool-season crop with many of its home garden varieties being grown for both its roots and edible leaves, making it a “two for one” vegetable. Beets are a member of the amaranth family and are adapted to cooler growing conditions.

Types of Beets

There are several main types of beets, each bred for a specific purpose.

• Garden or table beets are grown for eating and include familiar red, golden, white, and striped types used fresh, roasted, pickled, or juiced.
• Sugar beets are grown on a large scale for sugar production and have pale, high-sugar roots not usually used in home kitchens.
• Fodder or forage beets are bred as livestock feed, producing large, energy-rich roots.
• Leaf beets, commonly known as Swiss chard, are grown for their large, colorful leaves rather than their roots, even though they are the same species as garden beets.

Burpee has seeds in a kaleidoscope of beautifully colored and tasty varieties, from round ruby-red varieties to cylindrical shapes and multi-color mixes.

Planting Beets

Beets are most often grown from seeds, as they don't like being transplanted. A big, beautiful beet crop begins with care and attention to preparing the soil. As with carrots, a uniform soil will let your beets’ growth expand outward without impediment, creating smooth round or cylindrical roots. In the proper soil texture, beet seeds will germinate quickly.

The rest of the planting procedure is straightforward and easily completed in short time. In fact, the quick planting means you can plant a little row of beets every week or two, resulting in a prolonged and fruitful harvest.

When to Plant Beets

Beets are a cool-weather crop, and planting dates depend on one’s USDA zone. In southern US climates, beets can be grown all winter long, but do poorly in summer’s heat. In northern soils, beets shouldn't be planted until the soil temperature warms up to at least 40°F (4°C), usually around midspring. While they don’t fare well in summer, even in northerly locations, a second crop sown in late summer will produce a fall harvest.

Best Soil for Beets

Beets love soil types that are soft, rich, and easy to sink into – think loose and crumbly, something that lets roots grow round and smooth instead of twisted and tough. A sandy loam or well-worked garden bed with plenty of compost is ideal. Rocky or heavy clay soils lead to misshapen roots.

Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, around 6.0 to 7.0, and keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Use a soil testing kit such as the MySoil Test Kit, available on Amazon, to pinpoint soil pH, allowing you to adjust accordingly. When the soil is right, beets practically do the rest themselves.

Light Requirements

Beets are happiest soaking up the sun, growing best with at least six hours of direct light each day. Full sun means faster growth, sweeter roots, and stronger greens. If full sun is not possible for you, beets will still grow decently in light shade. This is especially true in hot climates where a little afternoon shade can prevent stress. Otherwise, a sunny, open space will result in beautifully colored, richly flavored, and sturdy roots and leaves.

When choosing a planting site, be sure it is away from tall neighboring plants or structures such as a house or garden shed that cast long shadows. In cooler regions, a full sun spot also helps warm the soil more quickly in spring, helping you get your beet crop going sooner.

How to Plant Beets – Step by Step

Now that you’ve determined the right time of year to plant beets depending on your location, and have chosen a sunny spot, it’s time to plant your beet seeds!

1. Prepare the soil. Loosen soil to about 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) deep. Remove rocks and clumps, then mix in compost or well-rotted organic matter. A soil sifter, such as the Round Capacity Compost Sifter from Home Depot, can help remove larger items from the soil as you dig. Rake the soil surface so it is smooth. A level surface helps you sow the seeds evenly and helps them make good contact with the soil.
2. Sow the seeds. Sow beet seeds ½ inch (1.25 cm) deep and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in rows spaced 12 inches (30 cm) apart. If you want a continuous supply, plant your beets in several plantings, about three weeks apart.
3. Cover and water. Gently cover seeds with soil, making sure the surface is level. Water lightly but thoroughly. A level surface ensures pools of water don’t remain.
4. Keep soil moist. Water regularly to keep soil evenly moist until seeds germinate, usually in 7–14 days if temperatures are between 55 and 75°F (13–24°C).
5. Thin seedlings. When plants are 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) tall, thin seedlings to 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) apart so roots have room to grow. Snip the seedlings rather than pulling them up because pulling will disturb the developing root systems of the plants still in the soil. Bonus – use the seedlings you’ve snipped to top your salad!
6. Mulch lightly and remove weeds. Add a thin layer of mulch to hold moisture and reduce weeds.
7. Water consistently. Consistency with soil moisture is key to growing most any root crop. Regular watering helps prevent tough or woody roots.

Beet Care

Beets may be an easy-care crop, but paying attention to the basics results in a far superior crop to one that is left to its own devices.

How Often to Water Beets

Beets’ water requirements depend on their maturity, soil conditions and the climate. In cool spring and fall temperatures, the soil dries slowly, especially in humid areas. Small, young plants won’t require as much water as those close to maturity; however, their relatively shallow roots may need water a bit more frequently until they reach the moisture reserves deeper in the soil.

Generally speaking, a good watering schedule for beets provides an inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. This is a combination of rainwater and supplemental irrigation. If you receive a half inch (1.5 cm) of rain, you only have to provide an additional half inch (1.5 cm) of irrigation water. Use a rain gauge to measure the amounts of rainfall and irrigation water your garden receives. This simple AcuRite gauge from Amazon does the job without spending much.

The watering schedule for beets should be less about assigned days of the week and more concerned with providing consistently moist soil. It never hurts to stick your finger in the ground to feel for moisture. Overwatering beets can be just as detrimental as underwatering this thirsty crop.

Fertilizing Beets

Beets are not heavy feeders, but they benefit from nutrient-rich soil. About one week before planting, apply a general-purpose balanced fertilizer – ideally with an NPK of 10-10-10.

After that initial application, a lower-nitrogen product is best for fertilizing beets. These root vegetables need more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen to promote root growth. Choose something like 5-10-10 or 4-8-8. Cz Garden Organics' 5-10-10 Tomato & Vegetable Fertilizer is a good pick.

About 2–3 weeks after seedlings emerge, apply fertilizer along the row, about 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) away from plants. Use roughly 1 tablespoon per 10 feet (3 m) of row, then water well. A second fertilizer application may be necessary if growth seems slow or the soil is poor. Repeat once more about 4 weeks later using the same amount.

Note that boron is a necessary element for growing beets. Low levels of boron will cause black sunken spots on and in the root. Internal black spot can be prevented with ½ ounce of Borax per 100 square feet (14 g per 9 m²). For additional sources of boron, try this Opulent Boron liquid fertilizer.

Mulching Beets

Mulch around beet plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Water stress within the first six weeks of growth will lead to premature flowering and low yields.

Organic mulches such as straw, shredded leaves, untreated grass clippings, or compost work well, helping to keep the soil evenly moist and cool during warm weather.

How to Prune Beets

Beets require very little pruning, which is one reason they’re so easy for home gardeners to grow. In general, avoid cutting healthy leaves during the growing season because the tops are what feed the developing root.

The only routine “pruning” is cleaning up damaged or distressed foliage. If leaves become yellow, damaged, or diseased, snip them off at the base using clean scissors or pruners. This helps keep plants tidy and improves air circulation.

Harvesting Beets

Beets can be harvested at almost any stage, depending on how you plan to use them. Will you use beets and greens fresh in salads? Will you pickle the roots and sauté the greens? Will you juice the entire plant? Smaller roots tend to be sweeter and more tender, while larger beets are better suited to roasting, pickling, or storage.

Most varieties are ready to lift once the exposed shoulders reach around 1–3in (2.5–7.5cm) across.

To harvest beets, loosen the soil if necessary and pull the roots gently by hand, grasping them where the leaves meet the crown. Watering the bed a day before harvest can make lifting easier in dry conditions.

Young beet green leaves can be picked sparingly throughout the season, or the entire top can be removed once the root has been harvested.

Beets Care Calendar

Overwintering Beets

In mild climates, mature beets can be left in the ground over winter and harvested as needed. Protect roots from repeated freezing and thawing with a thick layer of straw, shredded leaves, or another organic mulch. In colder regions, harvest and store roots before the ground freezes solid.

Storing Beets

When harvesting, you should have a plan for what you’ll do with the beets afterward. Beet greens will last only a few days in the refrigerator. Beet roots will remain usable for only a few weeks unless stored in sand or sawdust in a cool place, such as a root cellar. When picking beets, try to eat some of them fresh for the best flavor and highest nutritional content.

Propagating Beets

Beets are typically propagated via seeds. Most gardeners purchase beet seed from a nursery, garden center, or home store, but it's possible to harvest your own seeds. To do this, you must first wait until the beet tops have flowered and then turned brown before attempting to harvest. Then cut 4 inches (10 cm) off the top of the beet plant and store these in a cool, dry area for two to three weeks to allow the seeds to ripen. The seed can then be stripped from the dried foliage by hand or placed in a bag and pounded. The chaff can be winnowed, and the seeds plucked out.

A fun project is to attempt to regrow a beet plant from the top cut off of a grocery store root. The tops will regrow, but you won't get a whole new root. Simply place the beet top in a shallow dish, just covering it with water. After a few days, new leaves will have begun to form, and you can harvest these once they are big enough. Change water frequently to avoid rot.

Beet Problems

Beets are usually a trouble-free crop, but gardeners can run into certain common garden pests and diseases on occasion, especially in warm or wet conditions. While some pests and diseases affect leaves, it is not a huge issue for root production unless the damage becomes so severe as to kill the entire set of leaves.

For sap-sucking pests such as aphids, an insecticidal soap spray, like Bonide's ready-to-use spray from Amazon, can help keep populations under control.

Good spacing, crop rotation, well-drained soil, and keeping leaves dry when watering go a long way toward preventing most beet problems.

Development Problems

• Bolting – Beets may bolt in response to temperature fluctuations or heat stress, causing the plant to flower and reducing root growth.
• Wilting or falling beet plants – Sudden wilting may indicate insect damage, root rot or other diseases affecting the plant's roots and foliage.
• Small or misshapen beets – Usually caused by overcrowding, insufficient sunlight, poor soil conditions, or nutrient imbalances that restrict root development.
• Black heart (boron deficiency) – A nutrient issue that causes dark, cracked centers.

Common Pests

• Leaf miners – Tiny larvae tunnel through leaves, leaving winding white trails. Leaves may look blotchy or papery.
• Armyworms – Can eat tender young transplants to the ground and defoliate older plants.
• Flea beetles – Make tiny “shot holes” in young leaves, slowing early growth.
• Aphids – Cluster on the undersides of leaves, sucking sap and spreading disease.
• Cutworms – Chew through young seedlings at soil level.
• Root-knot nematodes – Yellowing foliage, poor growth, and swollen roots can all be signs of root-knot nematode damage.
• Slugs and snails – Feed on leaves, especially in damp gardens.

Common Diseases

• Cercospora leaf spot – Causes small purple or brown spots on leaves that can merge and kill foliage.
• Downy mildew – Creates gray or fuzzy growth on leaf undersides, often in cool, wet weather.
• Powdery mildew – White, dusty coating on leaves during warm, dry spells.
• Root rot – Happens in soggy or poorly drained soil; roots become soft and discolored.
• Curly top – Causes curled, stunted foliage and distorted roots, and is spread by beet leafhoppers.
• Southern blight – A soil-borne fungal disease that causes yellowing, wilting and root rot, often identified by white thread-like fungal growth around the base of plants.
• Mosaic virus – Spread by aphids, causes yellow mottling and pale blotches on leaves, sometimes leading to stunted growth

Growing Beets in Containers

When growing beets in containers, choose a variety that will not grow to an overly large diameter. You want plenty of room in the pot to grow a healthy crop, so choose one with a minimum depth of 6 inches (15 cm). The Eclipse Round Planter for indoor and outdoor use from The HC Companies via Amazon is ideal.

Fill the pot with potting soil amended with organic matter to improve drainage and fertility. Then, plant the seeds ½ to ¾ of an inch (1.5–2 cm) deep and keep the soil lightly moist. It will take 7–12 days for seedlings to emerge, which should be thinned once they are 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) tall.

Position your potted beets in a full sun position and harvest them when grown in the ground.

Growing Beets Indoors

Yes, beets can be grown indoors, especially smaller or round varieties that don’t need deep soil to form good roots. They need bright light – ideally 12–14 hours a day from a sunny window or grow lights – and containers at least 6–10 inches (20–25 cm) deep so roots can develop properly.

Use loose, well-draining potting mix, keep soil evenly moist, and thin seedlings so each plant has room to grow.

While indoor beets may grow a bit slower than outdoor ones, they can still produce tasty roots and tender greens right in your kitchen or sunroom.

Companion Planting Beets

As with most other crops, companion planting beets helps improve success and yields. This might be through adding nitrogen to the soil, providing shade, and encouraging beneficial insects. Good beet companion plants include:

• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Bush beans
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Chard
• Cilantro
• Dill
• Garlic
• Kohlrabi
• Lettuce
• Onions
• Shallots
• Tomatoes

However, not every plant makes a good companion plant for beets. Bad plot neighbors include:

• Carrots
• Field mustard
• Wild mustard
• Pole beans

Frequently Asked Questions

Beet Growing Essentials

• Looking for seeds? Burpee has many to choose from, including different shapes and colors and even multi-color mixes.
• Beets grow best in soil that is slightly acidic to neutral pH. Use a soil testing kit such as the MySoil Test Kit, available on Amazon to pinpoint soil pH.
• For smooth and round beets, remove rocks and clumps from the soil with the Round Capacity Compost Sifter from Home Depot.
• If growing beets in containers, provide plenty of depth for growth, the Eclipse Round Planter from The HC Companies on Amazon.

There are a few things you learn quickly when you marry into a family like mine. One is that my mother-in-law is kooky in the best possible way; she is a crystal healer, runs her own holistic and complementary therapy training centre, keeps tarot decks coming out of every drawer like they’ve been multiplying in the dark, and consults psychics whenever she needs help making a major life decision.

When she started talking about installing a copper pyramid in her veg bed, then, I didn’t even blink. I did, however, have a few questions – or, rather, just the one question: why?

As it turns out, the decision was entirely driven by the idea of electroculture. Sitting somewhere between ancient wisdom, modern pseudoscience, and very committed curiosity, the basic theory is that plants can benefit from atmospheric energy, and that certain structures – often copper coils or pyramid shapes inspired by the Great Pyramid of Giza – can act as passive antennas.

Shop Electroculture Garden Tools:

Copper, being highly conductive, is believed by proponents to help “collect” or amplify this energy and channel it into the soil, supposedly improving plant vitality and growth. And, keen to put the theory to the test, my mother-in-law set to work constructing a copper pyramid to pop one of her raised beds.

It is worth pointing out that this is not a small structure. It is worth pointing out, too, that next to it sits another raised bed without a copper pyramid; just the usual mix of soil, seeds, hope, and compost. If you were trying to run a controlled experiment, you could hardly ask for a neater setup.

Now, I want to be very clear that, while I love the concept of lunar gardening, witchy herbs, and (ahem) birth month trees, the majority of my gardening decisions are driven by soil structure, sunlight, water, spacing, and my husband (who, as I have mentioned before, is an RHS-trained professional gardener). I also understand coincidence; plants are variable, seasons are unpredictable, and sometimes one bed just takes off while another lags behind for reasons that have nothing to do with copper geometry.

And yet...

Well, and yet the pyramid bed has consistently outperformed the non-pyramid bed. The vegetables are bigger, the leaves are lusher, germination has been more reliable. Even the general “vibe” of the plants (yes, I realise this is a scientifically meaningless metric, but hey, emotionally accuracy is key!) feels more enthusiastic.

Meanwhile, the neighboring bed is... fine, I guess. It is doing a perfectly respectable job. However, the vegetables it produces lack the va-va-voom of its pyramid-topped rival, and while I could try to come up with a reason for this (maybe it gets slightly less light? Maybe the soil is ever so slightly different? Maybe it really is just “the energy”?

Personally, I have been quietly working on another theory, which is absolutely not focused on whether electroculture “works” in any provable sense, but how it changes the way you pay attention to a garden.

I suspect a shiny copper pyramid is likely to make you a) tend to your plants a little more lovingly, and b) notice everything more closely – the way plants respond to structure, to placement, to small shifts in environment. It turns an ordinary raised bed into something you observe almost like a living experiment.

Gardening, at its core, already asks a kind of faith from us. We put tiny seeds into soil and trust that something will happen. In that sense, my mother-in-law’s copper pyramid doesn’t feel entirely out of place. It is just a more dramatic expression of the same impulse: to believe that unseen forces might be at work in the soil.

And whether those forces are electrical, symbolic, psychological, or simply the result of good compost and a favourable microclimate? All magic, in my opinion. A thriving garden is always a gift, no matter who sends it our way.

Summer is almost here, which means that your tomato plants are probably due for their first pruning. As May turns into June and temperatures climb, newly transplanted tomatoes start to make big leaps in terms of growth. They relish the longer days and warmer nights of late spring and early summer.

But as tomatoes grow, they can start to get a little bit out of control. They grow quickly and put out lots of suckers that direct energy away from fruit production. When this begins, it’s time to start pruning tomato plants. Making some simple cuts now will keep your tomatoes tidy – which helps prevent disease – and it will also increase your yields.

Before you pick up the pruners, there are a few basics you need to learn to ensure you make the right cuts. Not all tomatoes require pruning. Plus, cutting in the wrong spot can actually ruin your chances of a big harvest. Here’s how to start pruning tomatoes and why right now is the most important time to make the cut.

Do All Tomatoes Require Pruning?

Not all tomatoes are created equal. There are two main types of tomatoes: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are bush-type tomatoes, which means they stop growing at a certain height. They are much shorter and more compact than indeterminate varieties and they don’t require pruning.

Indeterminate tomatoes can reach up to 6 feet (2 m) or higher, if you let them keep growing. They put out lots of suckers that divert energy and nutrients away from fruit production. These vining types of tomatoes produce best when you prune them. This directs the plant’s resources towards growing lots of big, juicy tomatoes. Pruning also makes fruit ripen faster, especially at the end of the season.

Benefits of Pruning Tomatoes

A bigger harvest isn’t the only benefit of pruning indeterminate tomatoes. Making smart cuts can also keep plants healthier.

Tomatoes can quickly produce lots of branches full of leaves that become crowded. Pruning away suckers and unnecessary branches improves airflow, which helps prevent common tomato diseases.

Keeping plants tidy by pruning them regularly also makes it easier to spot common tomato pests. There are less leaves where hungry tomato hornworms and annoying aphids can hide.

Best Time to Start Pruning Tomatoes

The best time to start pruning tomatoes is once plants are at least 12 inches (30 cm) tall. Depending on where you live and when you started your tomatoes, the exact date will vary. But many gardeners’ tomatoes pass this threshold in early June. So now is the perfect time to pick up your pruners – our team of gardening experts swear by these Felco pruners – or use your fingers to start pinching off suckers.

New sprouts show up fast, so you need to continue pruning away tomato suckers every week or two throughout the rest of the growing season. Luckily, pruning opens up the structure of your tomato plants and makes it easier to see suckers as they emerge. Snap or cut off suckers before they get too big. It’s best to remove them when they’re under 2 inches (5 cm) long. This handy thumb knife from Amazon makes plucking suckers easy – and kind of fun!

Prune tomato plants in the morning, but don’t make any cuts if plants are wet. This can invite disease. If your plants show any signs of disease, be sure to sterilize your pruners between each plant or else you risk spreading the problem to other plants.

Even if your tomato plants aren’t 12 inches (30 cm) tall yet, there may still be some pruning you need to do. Tomatoes that are producing flowers, but are under the 12-inch (30 cm) threshold require pruning as well.

Pluck off any tomato flowers that appear on plants under 1 foot (30 cm) tall. If you leave them, they may develop into normal fruits. But at this point in the growth cycle, letting a small plant bloom and produce a fruit is only going to sap your tomato of energy it will need later. Wait until your tomatoes hit the 1-foot (30 cm) mark before allowing flowers to progress into fruit.

Don’t Make This Pruning Mistake

Pruning tomatoes is quick, simple, and – honestly – kind of fun to do. It’s a great time to check on your plants’ health, look for any unwanted bugs, and train your tomatoes to grow big and strong. But it’s also easy to get carried away when pruning and end up making a cut you shouldn’t have. And there’s one tomato pruning mistake in particular that can ruin your harvest for the rest of the summer.

Do not cut off the top of the main stem. Only prune off the suckers that emerge in the joints between the side branches and the main stem. If you accidentally top your tomato plant at this point in the season, you will severely cut down on your yield of fruit for the rest of the summer. All of the other branches come off of this stem and that’s where your tomato fruits emerge and develop.

However, if you do accidentally top your tomato, you can allow a couple of suckers to develop and turn those into new main stems. They probably won’t be as strong as the original main stem, but they will still produce plenty of fruit.

Tomato Pruning Essentials

Indeterminate types of tomatoes can grow incredibly tall and flop over under their own weight. The traditional conical metal tomato cages are often too weak and too short to support the full weight of a productive tomato plant, especially, if it’s a larger variety like a beefsteak tomato.

Staking tomato plants with a support rod is another option that also leaves a lot to be desired. They are easier to store than the spiky metal cages, but require gardeners to tie the plants onto the stakes which can pinch off the stem of the plant leading to vine death.

Luckily, there are some really great modular tomato support systems on the market these days so you don’t have to compromise!

1. Snap-Together System

This snap-together system, available from Amazon, is a personal favorite of Gardening Know How Senior Editor Liz Baessler. Liz was tired of fussing with metal tomato cages that get tangled, rusted, and don’t quite fit in the shed, so she decided to give this adjustable trellis a try.

Sturdy stakes get pushed into the ground around your plant and you build the trellis with snap-in pieces as the plant grows. You can make the cage triangular or square and as tall as you want! It’s also really nice to not have to worry about trying to weave parts of the plant back within the cage. I can’t tell you how many times I have accidentally bent and snapped a healthy tomato-bearing branch trying to coax it inside the cage so it can get proper support. With this system, you can add a support bar wherever you need it. No more broken branches.

Possibly the best part of this tomato support makes itself known at the end of the season. All these pieces pop apart and you can store them in a fraction of the space that a traditional tomato cage takes up. Liz stores hers in a reusable grocery bag. Nothing better than a clean shed at the end of a busy growing season!

2. Flexible Growing

I am justifiably obsessed with the clever FlexGrow tomato cage system from Vego Garden. These strong, adjustable tomato cages can support up to 33 lbs of tomatoes and stack on top of each other to grow with your plants. Not only is the height adjustable, you can also form the pieces into an A-frame, a trellis, or a fence. Mind blown. This means you can grow perfect tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, or flowering vines with the same 4-pack of cages.

Vego Garden also designed these cages so they open wide and can be installed around a mature tomato plant without damaging it. I needed this a few years ago when I left town without caging my tomatoes and came back to plants that had doubled in size and couldn’t be shoved into the cages I had. I put on my problem-solving cap and built a strange string trellis system with leftover wood from refinishing my deck. It barely worked and my tomatoes were a messy jungle the whole season.

The modular panels are made from powder-coated galvanized steel that will resist rust and stay sturdy for years to come. This clever system grows and changes with you and your garden through the seasons and folds completely flat for easy storage.

3. Stacking Ladders

The stacking tomato ladder from Gardener’s Supply Company is another fabulous, modular tomato support system. Made of powder-coated steel, these adjustable supports can stack up to 6.5 feet tall and hold over 100 pounds of plant and produce! They are open on one side so they can be slipped around a mature tomato plant and their patented “plant cradle” design gently supports your tomato plants. No pinched stems here!

I think the red tomato plant ladders are absolutely adorable and they will look great for years to come. These ladders come in a set of 6 and you can use one for dwarf or bush tomato varieties or stack up to 3 for those big indeterminate plants. Last summer I had one indeterminate plant that grew up and over my traditional, conical tomato cage and continued to vine through the rest of the vegetable garden. It was a mess and the plant was so heavy that it eventually crushed its cage. All the fruit ended up on the ground and was eaten by animals and pests. This might just be the perfect solution for those jumbo indeterminates!

These tomato ladders have almost 900 5-star reviews, so clearly Gardener’s Supply Co. is doing something right! The ladders nest inside each other for clutter-free storage over the winter.

So go ahead and recycle those flimsy, rusty tomato cages that clog up your shed and try out a modular tomato support system. The flexibility, ease, and effectiveness of these modular systems will make your tomato garden happier year after year.

Starting a vegetable garden is one of the most fulfilling things you can do. Nurturing homegrown crops is even more enjoyable when plants don't just die off at the end of the season, but return bigger and stronger the following year.

Most of us usually only grow annual veggies, such as tomatoes and potatoes, which die at the end of the season and must be replanted the succeeding year. However, perennial vegetables return year after year, often yielding a bigger crop each time. Perennial crops are the ultimate easy-to-grow vegetables because you only have to plant them one time and once they are established, they practically take care of themselves.

Many of these cut-and-come-again crops are also unusual vegetables that you will not find at the grocery store. That means you can expand both your palate and your gardening skills at the same time. Let's take a look at some of tastiest perennial vegetables you can grow in your garden.

What Are Perennial Vegetables?

Like all perennial plants, perennial veggies are those that live for more than two years. The word "perennial" distinguishes them from the short-lived annuals and biennials. There are fewer true perennial vegetables than annuals, but there are still plenty to choose from.

Perennial crops extend the growing season by providing food both earlier and later in the year. Since they return each season, they give you more bang for your buck than annuals. They also often require less care than annuals.

Planting perennial vegetables in the garden is a smart way to expand your growing potential without having to invest in new crops every year. If you only have a small space to work with, then growing perennial vegetables in pots is also a possibility.

Best Perennial Vegetables to Try

There are a few readily known perennial vegetable plants, but there are a number of fascinating less recognized perennials that make a great addition to the garden landscape, too.

Each perennial has a unique habit and planting requirement. But as a general rule, once the plant is established, it is fairly maintenance-free. Below is a roundup of the best perennial vegetables to grow in your garden.

1. Rhubarb

Rhubarb is notable for its colorful red stalks topped with huge leaves that thrive in cool spring weather. Plant rhubarb in full sun and side dress with well-rotted manure to fertilize in the summer and fall.

Plant the crown in the early spring, with the central bud 2 inches (5cm) below the soil and crowns 6 feet (2 m) apart. Don't harvest the first year of growth. Thereafter, the plant will thrive for six to eight years, at which point the plant should be divided in the spring or fall.

You can buy bareroot rhubarb plants from Tractor Supply.

2. Asparagus

Like rhubarb, asparagus shouldn't be harvested in its first year of growth. It is another perennial that thrives in the cooler spring temps. Mature plants may yield for 10 to 15 years.

Amend the soil prior to planting with a 2-inch (5 cm) thick layer of compost in a trench that is 6 inches (15 cm) deep. Plant crowns in the spring, 6 to 8 inches (15-20.5 cm) deep and 14 inches (35.5 cm) apart. Cover the crowns loosely with 3 inches (7.5 cm) of compost-rich soil. Finish filling the trench in the fall.

Start a whole asparagus patch with 25 bare root plants from Burpee.

3. Artichokes

Another popular perennial vegetable is the globe artichoke. Not only are they delicious but the plant is quite spectacular. Artichokes are a member of the thistle family, which is obvious if you ever leave the edible flower bud on the plant; they open up into fuzzy vibrant purple flowers much like a thistle.

Plant artichokes in full sun in moist, well-draining soil that is amended with 2 inches (5 cm) of compost. This perennial can be grown either from root divisions or seed. Plant 24 to 36 inches (61-91.5 cm) apart in rows that are spaced 36 inches (91.5 cm) apart.

Amend the soil around the plants in the spring with 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of compost. Cut the artichoke back in the fall and cover it with a 6-inch (15 cm) layer of straw.

Shop artichoke seeds from Amazon to start growing these perennials for cheap.

4. Sunchokes

Sunchokes, or Jerusalem artichokes, are not the same as the above. Grown for its small, sweet tubers, the plant is actually related to the sunflower, and like the sunflower, is notable for its height of 6 to 12 feet (2-4 m). They will spread rampantly and should be contained and thinned often.

Hill the plants like potatoes to increase production and harvest after the first frost. Plant the tubers directly in the ground in the spring.

You can find sunchoke tubers for sale online from Walmart.

5. Welsh Onions

Welsh onions are more commonly grown as an annual, but they can be grown as a perennial too. They produce mild onion-flavored greens that can be harvested throughout the year.

Plants are very easy to grow, requiring just occasional watering and a full sun location – though they will tolerate part shade. Start Welsh onions from seed, and they will grow into a clump that can be divided in the spring.

You can find this unique perennial vegetable as seeds on Etsy.

6. French Sorrel

French sorrel is a lemony, acidic green that is easy to grow from seed and can be eaten either fresh or cooked. French sorrel, which is also known as Good King Henry, is a European native that can be planted in either sun or partial shade.

Young shoots can be cut in the spring and cooked like asparagus while the leaves can be harvested and cooked like greens through the late summer. The plant is cold hardy and low maintenance.

You can find Good King Henry seeds online from Amazon.

7. Walking Stick Cabbage

“Walking stick” cabbage or kale – also known as the Jersey cabbage – is one of the most unusual vegetables you can grow.

This plant can get very large – shooting stalks up 10 feet (3 m) in one season – and looks like a thin palm tree. Its leaves can be harvested from early to mid-fall and will keep you going all season. They should be cooked prior to eating.

Walking stick cabbage is a short-lived perennial in USDA zones 7 or above, lasting for two or three years. In cooler regions, it is grown as an annual. Plants prefer well-fertilized soil and need watering weekly.

Get walking stick kale starts that are ready for planting from Etsy.

8. Bamboo Shoots

Bamboo shoots are edible in most varieties and provide a nice crunch in stir-fries. Running bamboo is an invasive plant, but can be confined to a large metal planter and be kept to a manageable size by regularly harvesting it for its crunchy shoots. Alternatively, opt for clumping bamboo, which has a short root structure and is slow to spread.

Bamboo shoots need to be peeled before use in cooking, as the culm has a thick exterior that is difficult to chew.

You can start edible bamboo shoots from seed, like these ones from Etsy.

9. Nettles

Nettles are actually common weeds (like dandelions) that are high in vitamins A and C, iron, calcium, magnesium, and more. The young shoots are mild in flavor and can be used cooked in any recipe calling for greens.

They are surprisingly delicious in soups and make a beneficial tea. However, nettles are also good plants to deter deer, so can be included in the garden for a dual purpose. Wear gloves to harvest them to avoid getting stung. The sting disappears when the leaves are cooked.

Start nettles from seeds you can get on Amazon.

10. Skirret

A cousin of the carrot, skirret is a low-maintenance crop grown for its roots, which have a lovely, sweet flavor. It is cold-hardy, pest-resistant, and thrives in moist, shaded areas. Its pretty flowers attract pollinators.

Skirret can be grown from seed, or divided from existing clumps. Once the roots are harvested, they can be eaten like a carrot, and are commonly boiled, stewed, or roasted to bring out their sweetness.

Skirret is a hard-to-find vegetable, but you can get this plant on Etsy from New Bear Nursery.

11. Ramps

Ramps are delicious members of the onion family that taste like a combination of onion and garlic. Often found growing wild on the forest floor, they are easy to grow, and the bulbs can be divided every year in the spring to be eaten or replanted.

Ramps naturally grow in shaded areas with rich, moist, well-draining soil. They can be grown from seed or via transplants. Add organic matter into the hole before planting and keep the plants moist.

You can get this favorite of foodies as bare root bulbs from Etsy.

12. Water Celery

Water celery (Oenanthe javanica) is an edible ground cover that can be grown in the sun or shade. It does like moisture and will form dense colonies. Water celery is both frost and heat-tolerant and easy to grow from transplants or seed.

All parts of the plant can be eaten. The raw leaves taste somewhat like celery and parsley combined.

You can find water celery plants at the Home Depot.

13. Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads

Ostrich fern fiddleheads are harvested for the tender, young shoots in the early spring. The plant thrives in shaded areas with moist soil and may spread.

The delicious fiddleheads should be harvested when they are tightly coiled and just a few inches (7.5 cm) tall then cooked for at least ten minutes to bring out their unique, crisp, and nutty flavor.

Get ostrich fern plants for just a few dollars each from Native Wildflowers Nursery.

Companion planting when growing vegetables isn’t just based on folklore passed down through generations: recent studies show some classic combinations work in ways we never imagined possible. Take tomatoes and basil. They’re not only best friends in the kitchen, but incredible allies in the veggie patch, and studies now explain the science behind why growing basil alongside your tomatoes really does increase the yield by as much as 20%.

Intercropping and companion plant research is being led by the agricultural industry as a response to the increasingly problematic practice of growing single crops as monocultures, where abundant harvests rely on the use of pesticides and fertilizers. About 200 million metric tonnes of tomatoes are commercially produced around the world every year, so you can understand why this crop has attracted plenty of attention from the scientific world. One of the most significant findings is that superhero basil is one of the best companion plants for tomatoes – and we gardeners growing crops at home can enjoy the benefits, too.

So, once you've decided the best tomatoes for you to grow this summer, it’s now a given that you should plant basil alongside. Here’s why.

1. Basil Makes Tomato Plants Respond Faster to Stress

Recent studies show that basil releases volatile compounds that prime a tomato plant’s defense mechanisms. So, if a tomato plant is attacked and damaged by pests or disease, one that's growing alongside basil will react more quickly and robustly than one that isn't. Tomato plants are vulnerable to all sorts of pests and diseases, so strengthening the stress response is an across-the-board benefit, because healthy plants grow more fruit.

If you're wondering how to increase tomato yield, you should sow basil as a companion plant for this reason alone.

2. Basil Helps Tomato Plants Grow Stronger Roots

The preliminary findings of a 2024 study showed that planting basil significantly increased the symbiosis of mycorrhizal fungi in tomato plant roots. Mycorrhizal fungi are beneficial microorganisms that form a symbiotic relationship with roots and improve their ability to absorb water and nutrients.

This doesn’t just make for stronger, healthier plants, but ones that can tolerate drought and extreme environmental conditions better. In the face of this year's predicted super El Niño event, it makes more sense than ever to grow resilient plants.

3. Basil Blooms Attract Pollinators

A tomato flower needs to be pollinated before a fruit can form. Pollination can be done naturally by bees or the wind, or by us gardeners giving the plants a gentle shake; some folk hold an electric toothbrush to a flower stem for a few seconds to mimic the buzzing of bees and trigger pollen release!

Plant some basil and let it bloom, however, and it will attract plenty of bees to ensure thorough pollination. It's a common issue with homegrown tomatoes that only the lower half of a truss fruits while the later flowers don’t set, and this will solve that problem. One study found that the average number of fruits per cluster on tomatoes grown by themselves was 5.88, compared to 7.2 fruits per cluster on plants grown with basil.

We normally pinch off the flowerbuds to prevent basil leaves becoming bitter and tough, but leaving some to bloom will also give you edible flowers and seed to save for next year’s sowings.

4. Basil Helps Control Tomato Pests

Leaving basil to flower will also attract ladybugs, which will help to control aphids. Basil’s strong fragrance will also help general pest control, masking the scent of the tomato plants so fewer aphids arrive in the first place. The powerful smell of basil’s aromatic oils also confuses whiteflies and tomato hornworms.

And the less energy your tomato plant has to put into dealing with these stressors, the more energy it has to grow fruit.

5. Tomatoes Grown With Basil Taste Better

This supposition has long been bandied about in the gardening world, but a study by the University of Florida concluded that tomatoes grown with lemon basil were indeed tastier than ones grown without. We know that aroma contributes significantly to flavor perception, but whether the tomatoes actually tasted better or the research volunteers simply perceived them as more flavorful as a result of the basil’s scent is a moot point. Delicious tomatoes are delicious tomatoes!

How to Grow Basil With Tomatoes

Because basil plants have shallow roots, they won’t negatively impact the growing conditions of your tomatoes. Both need similar conditions of consistent moisture, well-drained soil and 6–8 hours of sunlight a day, so they’ll thrive together. Space basil 10–20 inches from the tomato plant for optimum protection without congestion.

Leave a few basil plants to flower, but keep picking leaves and pinching off flowerbuds and stem tips from the rest to encourage strong, bushy, fresh and aromatic growth. Harvest no more than a third of a plant’s leaves at a time.

Most types of basil are short-lived perennials but won’t survive temperatures below freezing, so are best treated as annuals in all zones. Collect seed in late summer to re-sow the following year once soil temperatures have reached 70°F.

The Best Basil Varieties to Grow With Tomatoes

The latest estimates suggest there are as many as 150 types of basil but as this species cross-breeds so easily, it’s impossible to know for sure! These are the types considered most effective as companion plants for tomatoes. It’s likely that different varieties may each work more efficiently in the many ways basil supports a heavy yield so, until we know more, it’s probably best to plant a few different varieties with your tomatoes.

Sweet Basil

Ocimum basilicum is the basil most often used as a companion plant for tomatoes. Also often referred to as common basil, it’s grown as an annual in zones 3–10, inside and out. It’s fast-growing and has a sweet and slightly peppery flavor. Seeds are available from Eden Brothers, and seeds and plants are stocked by Burpee.

Genovese Basil

A variety of sweet basil Ocimum basilicum, Genovese has a similar sweet anise flavor but larger leaves, and is considered the go-to for making pesto. It’s also fast-growing, raised as an annual in zones 3–10, inside and out. Seeds are available from Eden Brothers, Burpee and Botanical Interests.

Italian Large Leaf Basil

Also a sweet Ocimum basilicum variety and similar to Genovese, this has even bigger leaves, up to four inches long. Fast-growing, it's easily raised as an annual in zones 3–10, inside and out. Seeds are available from Burpee and Eden Brothers.

Purple Basil

The aroma of purple basil is more intense than regular sweet basil, so this is particularly effective at repelling pests. Its flavor is equally strong and fast-growing Ocimum basilicum var. purpurascens can be grown as an annual in zones 3–10, inside and out. Those purple leaves are pretty, too. Seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

Greek Basil

With tiny-leaved plants growing into a tidy 8-inch-high mound, Greek basil is handy for container-grown tomatoes. Ocimum minimum is the variety used in the study that found basil strengthens a tomato plant’s stress-response, too. Despite its compact size, this variety has a strong clove-anise aroma for pest-repelling purposes, and a robust flavor. This is a fast-grower raised as an annual in zones 3–10, inside and out, and seeds are available from Burpee.

Lemon Basil

While lemon basil doesn’t have the eugenol content of sweet basil that works so effectively as a pest repellent, this is the basil used in the tasty tomatoes study. As its common name suggests, Ocimum x africanum has an intense citrus aroma and taste, with just a hint of anise. Grown as an annual in zones 3–10, inside and out, seeds of this fast-growing basil are available from Botanical Interests.

And the best thing about growing basil alongside your tomatoes? You’ll be able to harvest plenty of tasty leaves to add to your bumper crop of tomatoes, for all sorts of delicious dishes.

If you’ve ever planted squash in summer, you likely know a thing or two about cucumber beetles and squash vine borers. These are not vicious pests, just hungry bugs looking to chow down on your crops – and squash tops their desirable food list.

Almost every gardener who has ever tried growing squash has had to combat these pests – and, unfortunately, many of us have resorted to pesticides. But there’s a better way to protect your tender young squashes. It’s called trap cropping.

If this sounds tricky, it’s only tricky in the best sense of the word. This organic pest control method tricks pests into eating the trap crop planted around your squash, leaving your garden crops alone and untouched! There’s one type of vegetable in particular that common squash pests can’t resist. I’ll share what it is and how to use it to protect the precious gourds in your garden.

Know Your Enemy

What exactly do cucumber beetles and squash vine borers do in your garden? They can destroy your entire squash harvest. But let’s take a closer look at how, so you understand how to defend against them.

Squash vine borers might be the most problematic pest of summer squash. Their parents are moths who lay eggs in the soil near squash plants. The borers emerge from cocoons to eat right through the stem of your squash, killing plants in the process. Since this happens underground, it’s easy to miss this problem until it is too late.

Despite their name, cucumber beetles also love zucchini and other types of squash. They are not squirmy, nor do they live underground like squash vine borers. In fact, they look a lot like ladybugs, except they are yellow with black markings. These pests eat the leaves, flowers, and fruits of your squash plants and they can also transmit bacterial wilt.

What Is Trap Cropping?

When I think of a perimeter intended to protect my plants, fencing is the first thing that comes to mind. When I was sowing acorns on my land in France in order to start a forest, I installed fencing all the way around the land to keep the wild ponies from chowing down my seedlings.

But a protective perimeter doesn’t have to be made of chicken wire and stakes to be effective. In a vegetable garden, the pests are smaller than Basque ponies and can crawl through or fly over almost any physical barrier. That’s why trap crops work so well.

A trap crop doesn’t block the passage of pests. Rather, it attracts the pests so much that they never need to go past it and into your garden.

Meet Your New Ally: Blue Hubbard Squash

There is one vegetable that is practically irresistible to squash pests: the Blue Hubbard squash. It is a delicious, edible squash that doubles as the perfect trap crop. You can get Blue Hubbard squash seeds on Amazon.

It’s a large, heirloom winter squash with tough, bumpy skin that’s a weird shade of blue. And when I say large, I mean large! Blue Hubbards can grow up to 40 pounds (18.1 kg), offering plenty of sweet orange flesh for cooking.

But the main benefit of Blue Hubbard squash is that it’s wildly attractive to pests that eat other types of squash. Spotted and striped cucumber beetles as well as squash vine borers would rather eat Blue Hubbard than most other squashes any day of the week. That means that you can organically control pests using Blue Hubbard squash as a trap crop.

Benefits of a Blue Hubbard Trap Crop

Using Blue Hubbard squash for pest control is a win-win for your garden. It has been proven to lower pest infestations on summer squash by up to 95% for cucumber beetles and 88% for squash vine borers. And it does so without killing any beneficial insects, like pollinators.

This system also decreases the need for chemicals in the garden, focusing on an environmentally friendly practice that supports biodiversity instead. Over time, you will see better yields for your squash at a low cost.

The cherry on the top? Blue Hubbard squash plants grow so fast that they help keep weeds out of your garden, too. That means less toxins and less effort to combat weeds. Plus, they make delicious pies and breads!

How to Use Blue Hubbard as a Trap Crop

There are several ways you can use Blue Hubbard squash in your garden to protect your other squash plants as well as other cucurbits like cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons.

The first is to plant a literal perimeter of Blue Hubbard around your garden bed. Plant sufficient Blue Hubbard crops to completely encircle the main crop you wish to protect. This keeps your squash free of pests and also free of pesticides.

But you don’t have to do a complete perimeter to get the benefits of Blue Hubbard. You can use just 6 to 8 Blue Hubbard squash plants at the corners of your garden, placing them about 3 feet (1 m) from the center crop. This will protect a small garden of cucurbit plants.

Kill the Pests

Now that you’ve lured all the unwanted pests to your Blue Hubbard trap crop, it’s time to capture and kill them. If you don’t kill the cucumber beetles and squash vine borers on the trap plants, they will continue to reproduce on those plants. Subsequent generations may move over to the squash garden with the plants you wanted to protect.

It’s best to kill pests using a non-toxic method, like sucking them up with a reverse leaf blower, hand-picking them from plants and squishing them, or by spraying them with an organic pesticide like neem oil, which you can get on Amazon.

May is graduation month for most tomato plants. If you're growing in a temperate climate, this is probably when you're moving your seedlings from their coddled life indoors to the rugged reality of the garden. It can be a little daunting.

But don't worry! As long as you follow a few simple rules, you can send your tomatoes out into the world with confidence. Here are six absolute must-do's for tomato care in May if you want a bumper crop come August.

1. Harden Off Seedlings

This one comes first, no matter what. Whether you've started seeds indoors yourself or you've bought seedlings at a nursery, your little plants are likely used to the cushy indoor life. That means no wind, no bright sun, and especially no cold. If you plant them straight in the ground, all that sudden change is going to give them a rude awakening.

Will it kill them? Unless it frosts, probably not. But it will shock them, and they'll spend the next several weeks struggling to recover when they could be putting down roots and shooting out leaves. It's best to avoid it.

Here's how to harden off seedlings:

1. Place seedlings outdoors in a shaded, sheltered spot for 2 hours during the day.
2. Bring them back indoors.
3. Repeat, increasing outdoor time by 1-2 hours each day, gradually exposing them to dappled sunlight and then direct morning sun.
4. Keep up the process for 7-10 days.
5. As long as temperatures are consistently above 50 F (10 C), you can move them outside permanently.

Shop Tomato Essentials

2. Dig Deep and Transplant

Once your tomato seedlings are hardened off, they're ready to transplant... as long as the soil has warmed to at least 60 F (16 C). Don't try to sneak them in early! Just like with hardening off, cool soil won't kill them, but it will set them back.

When you do transplant tomato plants, dig deep! Tomatoes and other nightshades have a unique ability that lets them develop roots anywhere along their stems. That means that whatever part of the seedling you bury, it will sprout roots.

If your seedlings are a bit leggy, that's totally fine. Just snap of the leaves on the bottom two thirds of the plant, and bury it so the remaining leaves are a few inches above the soil line. If the stem is extra long, you can try trench planting. Dig a long angled trench, and lay the seedling along it so its leaves are poking up above the soil line, then fill in the trench. The plant will benefit from having more roots close to the surface, where the soil is warmer and water is more readily available.

3. Add Support

It happens to the best of us. We plant our tomatoes, and we swear we'll add a cage as soon as we get to it. Then life happens, and weeks go by, and by the time we finally get to it, the plant is huge and it's impossible to fit a tomato cage around it without breaking some branches and dislodging some fruit. Or we stab part of the now-expansive root system and damage the plant. I know I've done it.

Learn from my mistake: add support to your tomato plants the day you put them in the ground!

4. Mulch Mulch Mulch!

Tomatoes are notoriously susceptible to soil-borne diseases like early blight and Septoria leaf spot. These spores live in the soil and ride up to your tomato's leaves in drops of water that splash onto them. If a seedling is surrounded by bare soil, every rain or watering is going to be an opportunity for splashback.

Keep spores from splashing by laying down 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of mulch. I like to use straw mulch for all my vegetables.

5. Fertilize, and Keep It Balanced

Tomatoes benefit from an application of fertilizer when they're first planted, but it's important to keep it balanced. Too much nitrogen now, and they'll have a growth spurt much too fast. Too much phosphorous and they'll focus on making flowers when they should be growing leaves. A balanced fertilizer like this from Amazon will give them a good start.

Though it's tempting, don't put fertilizer in the hole with the seedling – it'll burn any roots it comes into direct contact with. Side dress them, or dilute it in water and drench them with liquid feed.

6. Prune, and Be Ruthless

If you're growing indeterminate tomatoes, you'll probably notice suckers – these are the small shoots that develop between the main stem and a branch. Pinch these suckers off to improve airflow.

If your plant is less than 12 inches (30 cm) tall and it starts to produce flowers, you should pinch them off, too. It feels like a crime, but it forces the plant to invest that energy into its root system, leading to a much higher yield later in the summer.

It’s May, it’s May – the merry month of May. With warmer weather and bluer skies settling in, a gardener’s thoughts naturally turn to the vegetable patch. Not every crop belongs in the ground just yet, but this is a prime window for sowing many favorites.

So, what vegetables should you plant in May? Timing depends on your local hardiness zone, so let that guide you. If you’re still a week or two away from your last expected frost, hold off on tender crops like tomatoes and eggplants – patience now saves disappointment later. But for most gardeners, the door is open to direct sowing seeds, especially for those in warmer regions where warm-season crops can go straight into the soil.

As spring matures and begins its gentle handoff to summer, you’re no longer limited to cool-season staples like lettuce and spinach. This is the moment to start layering in warm-season vegetables, building toward a fuller, more productive garden. As April fades and May takes hold, final frost dates pass quickly, and “real” vegetable gardening gets underway in earnest.

In northern climates, May typically brings soil that’s finally warm enough for tender crops to germinate reliably outdoors – a soil thermometer, like this Yamron 4-in-1 design from Amazon, is invaluable for getting the timing right. Farther south, the focus shifts – now is the time to sow heat-loving crops that will thrive as summer temperatures climb.

Here’s a shortlist of the crops you can get sowing over the next few weeks.

1. Beans

It’s no coincidence that Jack’s fast-growing crop was a beanstalk. If you’re after something that takes off quickly in May, beans are hard to beat. With soil temperatures reliably above 60°F (16°C), most bean varieties germinate rapidly and evenly. Whether you choose bush or pole types, beans are refreshingly low-maintenance and won’t demand constant attention.

Jack may have planted pole beans, but I tend to favor bush varieties, which stand neatly on their own without the need for trellising. That said, pole beans will reward you with a longer harvest period – something to consider if space allows. Like most summer crops, beans need full sun, well-drained soil, and consistent moisture. Avoid waterlogged ground, though – beans dislike “wet feet” and can quickly struggle in poorly drained soil.

From sowing to harvest typically takes around 45–60 days, depending on the variety and conditions. Pods are ready when they feel firm and snap cleanly from the plant. Pick regularly – every couple of days at peak production – to encourage the plant to keep flowering and producing new pods.

Bean Seed Picks

2. Cucumbers

Has your region seen its last spring frost? If so, May is your cue to plant cucumbers. These vigorous climbers thrive in warm soil – ideally above 65°F (18°C) – and a full-sun position. Well-drained soil is essential, and consistent, even watering will prevent bitterness and misshapen fruit.

For best results, sow seeds at the base of a vegetable trellis or support. As they germinate and grow, the vines will naturally climb, keeping fruit off the ground, improving air circulation, and reducing the risk of disease. It also makes harvesting far easier – no rummaging through foliage to find hidden fruit.

Most cucumber varieties are ready to harvest in about 50–70 days. Pick cucumbers while they’re still young and tender, before seeds fully develop. And, as with beans, frequent harvesting encourages the plant to keep producing rather than slowing down.

Cucumber Seed Picks

3. Carrots

Bugs Bunny may be their most famous fan, but I’m right there with him. Crunchy, bright, and full of flavor, homegrown carrots are noticeably sweeter when grown well – and May is an excellent time to sow them.

For straight, well-formed roots, focus on the soil as much as the seed. Carrots prefer light, sandy, stone-free ground that allows roots to grow without obstruction. Full sun – at least 6 hours a day – and consistent moisture will keep them developing steadily. Avoid letting the soil dry out, especially during germination, which can take 10–20 days.

Sow seeds thinly and evenly, then thin seedlings early to prevent crowding, which leads to misshapen roots. Most varieties are ready in about 60–75 days, though you can begin harvesting earlier if you prefer smaller, more tender carrots.

And don’t wait for them to bulk up too much – smaller carrots are often sweeter, more delicate, and far better on the plate.

Carrot Seed Picks

4. Tomatoes

If there’s a belle of the ball in the vegetable garden, tomatoes win hands down. These heat-loving plants are arguably the most anticipated crop of the May planting season. They thrive in full sun – ideally 8 hours a day or more – and need consistently warm soil, at least 60°F (16°C), to establish and grow well.

Support is essential for tomatoes. Whether you use cages, stakes, or trellises, giving plants structure early prevents stems from snapping under the weight of developing fruit and keeps growth orderly and accessible.

You may be enjoying your first vine-ripened tomatoes in as little as 60 days, though many varieties take closer to 70–85 days to reach full production. For the best flavor, allow fruits to ripen fully on the vine, developing rich color and a slight softness to the touch.

Harvest regularly as fruits ripen – not only for peak taste, but to encourage the plant to keep flowering and setting more fruit throughout the season.

Tomato Seed Picks

5. Corn

Will your corn grow as high as an elephant’s eye? It just might – if you plant at the right time and give it the warmth it craves. May is ideal for sowing, once soil temperatures reach at least 60°F (16°C). Corn thrives in full sun – a full day of direct light is best – along with well-drained soil.

Patience is part of the deal. Most corn varieties take 70–100 days to reach harvest. Watch for the silks to turn brown and dry, and check that the ears feel plump, full, and heavy in the hand. A quick test – peel back a little husk and press a kernel; if it releases a milky juice, it’s ready to pick.

Corn relies on wind for pollination, and this is where many gardeners go wrong. Rather than planting in long single rows, sow corn in short blocks to improve pollination and ensure full, well-filled ears. Give each plant enough space to develop tall, sturdy stalks.

Water is especially important during tasseling and ear formation – dry conditions at this stage can lead to poorly filled cobs. Keep soil consistently moist, and you’ll be rewarded with sweet, well-developed kernels.

Corn Seed Picks

6. Summer Squash

Summer squash thrives on warmth, and May provides the ideal conditions to get it started. Popular types include zucchini (courgette), yellow crookneck, and straightneck squash – all fast-growing and highly productive. Wait until soil temperatures are at least 60°F (16°C), as cold soil will slow growth and leave plants vulnerable.

Choose a sunny, open position – at least 6 hours of direct sunlight, though 8 or more is better – and plant into rich, well-drained soil. Incorporating compost before planting will fuel the plant’s rapid growth and heavy yields.

These plants spread generously, so space them well apart to allow for airflow and easy access. Good spacing helps prevent common issues like powdery mildew, which thrives in crowded, humid conditions. Water consistently, directing moisture to the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves.

Flowers play a crucial role here – squash produces separate male and female blooms, and pollination is essential for fruit to develop. Female flowers can be identified by the small swelling (the immature fruit) behind the bloom. If pollinators are scarce, you may need to hand-pollinate to ensure a good crop.

Harvest begins in 45–60 days, but timing is everything. Pick fruits when they are small and tender – typically 6–8 in (15–20 cm) long – for the best flavor and texture. Zucchini, in particular, are at their finest before they get too large. Left too long, they become watery, seedy, and signal the plant to slow production.

Pick frequently – often every day at peak season – and you’ll be rewarded with a steady, generous supply.

Summer Squash Seed Picks

7. Peppers

I’m partial to red peppers, but green ones have their place too – crisp, fresh, and full of bite. May is the ideal time to plant both, so it’s worth growing a mix for a longer, more varied harvest. Plant in well-drained soil in full sun – at least 8 hours a day – for the best flavor and fruit development.

Peppers need consistent watering, but take care not to overdo it – soggy soil can lead to root problems and slow growth. Warmth is key here too, with soil temperatures ideally above 65°F (18°C) for strong, steady growth.

For the sweetest, most flavorful peppers, allow them to fully ripen on the plant. Green peppers are simply unripe fruits – given time, many will turn red, yellow, or orange, developing greater sweetness and complexity.

Most varieties take around 60–80 days to mature, with red peppers typically needing the longer end of that range. Once plants begin producing, regular picking will encourage continued flowering and a steady supply of fruit throughout the summer.

Pepper Seed Picks

8. Beets

Some people claim not to like beets – but they probably never tried growing them. A well-grown beet is a different creature entirely. Deeply colored, earthy, and naturally sweet, they’re as good roasted as they are in soups or sliced into salads.

Plant beets in May, and you can expect a harvest by mid-summer. They’re quick to establish in warming soil, with most varieties maturing in around 55–70 days. Like many crops, they prefer full sun and well-drained soil, along with consistent moisture to keep roots tender and evenly developed.

Because beets are root vegetables, spacing matters. Sow seeds thinly, then thin seedlings early to avoid overcrowding – each plant needs room below ground to form a proper root. (What looks like a single “seed” is actually a cluster, so multiple seedlings often emerge together.)

Don’t forget the bonus harvest – beet greens are not only edible but excellent, especially when picked young and tender.

Beet Seed Picks

Vegetables to Transplant in May

I understand the appeal of buying vegetable transplants – set them in the ground and your garden instantly looks productive. You’re also a step ahead of neighbors who are just sowing seeds. Plant Addicts has a good selection to order for home delivery.

That said, transplants come at a cost. They’re more expensive than seeds, and you miss out on the satisfaction of watching seedlings emerge and grow. A good middle ground is to start your own seeds indoors and transplant sturdy young plants into the garden in May, once conditions are right.

Whichever route you take, some crops are particularly well suited to transplanting. Leeks and members of the brassica family – such as cabbage, broccoli, kale, and Brussels sprouts – benefit from an early start and establish well when moved outdoors. These slower-growing vegetables appreciate the head start and will reward you with a more reliable harvest.

The old-fashioned idea that vegetables belong in a hidden work patch out back while flowers claim the glory out front is a rule nobody really enforced, but somehow everyone just followed it. Well, I’m here to encourage you to ditch that rule. Edimentals (plants that earn their keep on both aesthetic and culinary grounds) make a powerful case for a more integrated, joyful landscape where edibles can be beautiful, and border plants can be tasty. Just imagine a garden where crimson climbers provide a living privacy screen, and silver architectural leaves create a dramatic backdrop for perennials, all while cultivating homegrown harvests in a practical, thoughtful way that maximizes every square inch with flavorful abundance.

Early spring is the perfect time to start these dual-purpose vegetable garden border ideas, and sow the seeds of a multi-layered growing space that looks like a high-end cottage garden yet tastes like a gourmet feast. By growing these easy vegetables amongst your flower beds and borders, you aren't just saving space, you're attracting more pollinators, confusing common pests, and improving soil health by supporting a diverse root mix. Whatever your growing space, these plants offer vertical drama, low-maintenance beauty, and months of vivid color that you can actually eat.

This is your invitation to see your yard differently, to value a plant for the curve of its pod and hue of its leaf as much as the flavor of its crop. These pretty vegetable garden ideas thrive on a little neglect once settled, and offer electric color and prolific edibles with practically zero effort. You can start some indoors, or direct into the ground now it is warming up. Get them going now, and your borders will pop with sensational colors and crops through summer. So, forget everything you thought you knew about growing vegetables, and get ready for a season of tasty border beauties.

Plants for a Pretty Gourmet Border

Most of these edimentals are hardy, generally thriving across USDA zones 4-9, but they do share a love of the spotlight. Aim for a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. Before you make a start on planting your pretty vegetable garden, consider soil drainage. If it needs a boost, work in a few inches of well-rotted compost or an organic mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch, available from Amazon. This helps lock in moisture and suppress weeds, allowing you to spend more time harvesting and less time hoeing. In the first few weeks, keep plants well watered, and add a slow-release feed like Espoma Organic Garden-Tone from Lowe’s when putting transplants in the ground.

While many of these crops, like peas and beans, prefer to be direct-sown into the warming soil in early spring, slower-developing amaranth and artichokes will benefit from a few weeks indoors, or being purchased as plugs for planting out once the risk of frost is passed. When planning your layout, think in layers. These edimental options cover every layer of a border, with low frontal color, mid-border structure, and tall screening at the back. A few are climbing flowering plants that give a small space real privacy without the commitment of a hedge; all earn their space twice over. Spacing is key, so give these beauties room to grow and show off their foliage. A crowded border can hide the visual drama we want to showcase.

Creative planting schemes can really make these veggies pop. Try a modern potager vegetable garden border design, planting in geometric clusters rather than lines. Or you could try a cottage edimental look by interplanting with traditional ornamentals. The silver leaves of an artichoke look breathtaking next to some purple salvias, while the electric stems of chard gain a neon glow when paired with lime-green lady’s mantle. By treating vegetables as structural elements and as visual specimens, you create a yard that feels intentional – as well as packed with flavor.

1. Purple Podded Peas

If you find standard green peas a bit underwhelming, purple-podded varieties like 'Blauwschokker' or 'Sugar Magnolia' will be a revelation. Along with deep violet crops, these decorative climbers also produce stunning bicolor blooms in shades of violet and dusty rose to rival any cottage garden sweet pea. These flowers eventually give way to those midnight-purple crops that hang like jewels against the green foliage. And when you pop them open, their emerald green treasures gleam against their vibrant casings. Reaching heights of 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m), these peas plants are perfect for a mid-border screen or a vertical interest on a trellis.

For the best results, sow direct in early May. Purple podded peas love a cool start but need the sun to develop the deep anthocyanins that give the pods their color. Plant 2 inches (5cm) deep and 3 inches (8cm) apart. These plants are fast-growing and relatively low-maintenance in zones 3-9, though they do appreciate consistent moisture during the flowering window, late spring to early summer. Pair them with silver-leafed companions or yellow marigolds to make that purple really sing, or interplant with nasturtiums or violas. While the pods turn green when cooked, the raw flavor is sweet and crisp, perfect for a garden-side snack. You can buy Purple Podded Peas from Burpee and‘Blue Shelling’ Heirloom Seeds from Eden Brothers.

2. Scarlet Runner Beans

Scarlet runner beans in full flower are very hard to walk past. The blooms are electric coral-red, produced in long racemes that hummingbirds love. They are also ferocious climbers, easily reaching 10-12 feet (3-3.6m), making them ideal for quick-growing privacy screens on fences or large tepees. The wow factor here is the coral shower of flowers, which appear in abundance and last for weeks. Unlike many other bean varieties, scarlet runner beans thrive in slightly cooler summer temperatures and keep pumping out flowers and pods until the first frost. Some key varieties to try are heirloom red-and-white ‘Painted Lady’ and classic intense ‘Scarlet Emperor’ beans. You can buy ‘Scarlet Emperor’ Runner Bean Seeds from Eden Brothers.

In early May, you can direct-sow your beans once the soil has warmed to 60°F (15°C). Because they are so vigorous, they need a sturdy support system. Think heavy-duty twine, a permanent cattle panel, or a sturdy trellis like the Lassmonk Trellis from Amazon to support and showcase these prolific flowering beauties. They aren't picky about soil, but do love a bit of mulch to keep roots cool. Interplant them with white-flowered climbers to create a high-contrast display. The young pods are delicious steamed, but you can also let them mature to harvest the stunning pink-and-black mottled dried beans in the fall. Hardy in zones 3-11.

3. Globe Artichoke

If you want a plant that looks like it belongs in a high-end architectural magazine, the globe artichoke has impressive visual prowess in a border. These are the giants of the border, reaching 5-6 feet tall (1.5-1.8m) and nearly as wide. Their silver-green, deeply serrated foliage provides a dramatic, fountain-like structure that holds its own against any ornamental shrub. Depending on variety, buds blush in hues of purple, olive or burgundy. If you don’t harvest the buds, they open into massive, neon-violet thistles in late summer which are genuinely spectacular and loved by bees. Try ‘Imperial Star’ or ‘Green Globe’ for a verdant twist, or ‘Violet de Provence’ Artichoke Seeds from Eden Brothers for dramatic structural interest and highly tasty crops.

Artichokes are perennials in warmer zones (7-11) but can be grown as annuals in zones 3-6 if started early. Early May is the time to get young starts into the ground. They are heavy feeders, so if you want to set and forget these generous croppers, dig in plenty of compost at planting. They are drought-tolerant once established and rarely bothered by pests. Use them as an anchor at the back of a border or as a centerpiece in a circular bed. Pair with dark purple flowers or fine-textured grasses to contrast with their bold, silver leaves. The first-year foliage alone earns its keep, and by year two, a well-established crown is one of the most visually arresting things a kitchen garden can produce.

4. Dragon Tongue Beans

Dragon tongue beans look like a seed catalog photograph come to life, and are almost too beautiful to eat. These compact bush beans (no staking required) produce flat, creamy-yellow pods heavily etched with vivid violet-purple streaks running lengthwise across them. They are the perfect front-of-border or mid-border plant, providing a tidy mound of interesting foliage and high-contrast pods. They also grow quickly (and are often ready to harvest in just 55 days), making them a great choice for gardeners who want fast results. For the definitive variety, buy Sherwood’s Seeds Dragon Tongue Seeds from Walmart.

Sow direct in May, planting an inch (2.5cm) deep, thinned to 6 inches (15cm) apart. They are very easygoing and handle heat better than many other bean varieties. Because they don’t climb, they are perfect for filling gaps in flower beds where a bulb has finished blooming. They are a set-and-forget dream, and you just need to keep picking them to encourage more production. The pods are stringless and have a buttery, nutty flavor. To keep the color story going, plant alongside purple alyssum or yellow pansies for a coordinated ground-level display in zones 3-10.

5. Bright Lights Rainbow Chard

Rainbow chard earns the word “vibrant” with stems in electric yellow, deep magenta, electric pink, coral orange, and white, all from one packet. It is essentially living neon lighting for your yard. The leaves are large, glossy, and often crumpled, adding a rich texture that complements delicate flowers. Because it is a cut-and-come-again crop, you can harvest the outer leaves for months, while the plant continues to provide a structural, colorful center for your border. This hori hori garden knife like the Perwin Hori Hori from Amazon makes harvesting at the roots clean and easy.

Sow direct in early May in zones 2-11, thinning to 9 inches (23cm). Chard is remarkably resilient – it handles a bit of shade better than most veggies, and is more heat-tolerant than spinach or kale. Plant in a sweeping drift, and try backlighting. When the afternoon sun hits those translucent colored stems, they literally glow. Rainbow chard is virtually maintenance-free once it reaches a few inches tall. Just provide regular water to keep the leaves tender, and enjoy the living spectacle from spring through hard frost. You can buy Bright Lights Swiss Rainbow Chard Seeds from Burpee for the classic mix of gold, pink, white and crimson stems, or ‘Peppermint’ for a quirky alternative featuring pink and white striped stems.

6. 'Hopi Red Dye' Amaranth

For sheer drama and vertical scale, ‘Hopi Red Dye’ amaranth is unbeatable. This plant sends up towering, plush flower spikes in a deep, brooding burgundy-red that can reach 6 feet (1.8m) in height. Flowers, leaves and stems all carry the same rich red-to-purple tint, making it a powerful color block for the back of a border. It acts as a fantastic temporary summer hedge, providing privacy with a structurally dynamic appeal. As privacy screening goes, this one looks more like a designer ornamental than a grain crop, and it really earns its place at the back of a border in zones 3-10.

Amaranth loves the heat, so May is the perfect time to transplant seedlings or direct-sow in sunny spots. It is exceptionally drought-tolerant once established, and really does thrive on neglect. While the young leaves are a delicious addition to salads (tasting like a nuttier spinach), the stunning seed heads are undeniably the big draw. These plumes remain vibrant for weeks, flowering midsummer to first frost, and can even be dried for indoor arrangements. Pair with gold-flowering perennials like rudbeckia for high-drama or pink and red zinnias for surreal color drenching. You can buy ‘Hopi Red Dye’ Amaranth Seeds from Amazon, for lush tassels on tall burgundy spires, while ‘Love Lies Bleeding’ offers a unique weeping form.

7. Tuscan Kale ‘Lacinato’

Also known as Dinosaur Kale or Cavolo Nero, this kale is the ultimate structural edimental. Its leaves are so long, narrow, and darkly puckered, it sits somewhere between vegetable and sculpture, and its deep blue-greenish notes look purple black in certain lights. Growing in an upright, palm-tree-like fashion, it provides a sophisticated, vertical accent that works beautifully in modern and minimalist garden designs. It reaches 3 feet (90cm) tall and retains its glorious shape in zones 2-11, long after other plants have faded in the summer heat or succumbed to the first frost.

Early May is a great time to transplant starts or direct-sow. This tough cookie isn't fussy about soil, though it does appreciate a nitrogen supplement with some chicken manure, such as Espoma Organic Chicken Manure from Walmart. To keep it looking its best, harvest lower kale leaves as it grows to emphasize that palm tree effect. It looks especially dynamic when paired with bright white flowers or silver foliage like dusty miller. As a bonus, the flavor actually improves after a light frost, making it one of the few plants that provides visual interest and food well into winter. You can buy ‘Lacinato’ Kale Seeds and Plants from Burpee. For something even darker, try ‘Black Magic’ for seriously sultry foliage.

8. Malabar Spinach

If you need a climbing vine that loves the sweltering heat, Malabar spinach is your go-to. While not a true spinach, it produces thick, glossy, heart-shaped leaves on vivid crimson-to-purple stems (in the 'Rubra' variety). It is a vigorous vine that will quickly scramble up a trellis, archway, or fence, providing a lush, tropical-looking screen. It climbs to six feet (1.8m) or more and handles summer heat in a way regular spinach can't, staying lush and productive long after other leafy greens have bolted. Malabar produces small, pinkish-white flowers, followed by dark purple berries, adding multiple layers of interest from midsummer through to first frost.

This is a heat-loving tropical, so don't rush it into the ground until the soil is warm in mid-to-late May. Wait until nights hold reliably above 50°F (10°C). This pretty climber needs a trellis to show off its crimson stems, making it an excellent choice for vertical gardening in tight spaces. Try fabric grow bags like Land Guard Fabric Pots from Amazon as the extra drainage suits a tropical vine. The leaves of this pest-resistant cropper have a mild, peppery flavor. Train it up an obelisk in the center of a flower bed to create a pillar of edible emerald and ruby. Try ‘Red Stem’ for crimson stems, or go classic with OutsidePride Malabar Spinach Seeds from Amazon. Grow as a perennial in zones 7-11, and an annual in zones 3-6.

Why the Edimental Approach Works

The magic of the edimental border is that it functions as a living community. When you mix these architectural vegetables with flowers, you’re practising companion planting on a grand scale. Tall climbers like scarlet runner beans provide much-needed shade for smaller, heat-sensitive flowers. The deep taproots of globe artichokes help break up compacted soil, improving drainage for everything nearby. Furthermore, by allowing some of these vegetables to flower, you are providing a buffet for beneficial insects, which in turn protects your crops from pests like aphids without the need for chemicals. Mix it all together, and the border runs itself better than a monoculture ever would.

As we move through early May, remember that the key to a beautiful border is layering, and what goes in now will define the border come July. Think about height, color, and cropping sequence before sowing — what emerges should feel layered rather than like a collection of things that happened to end up in the same bed. Place your amaranth and artichokes at the back, your ‘Lacinato’ kale and purple peas in the middle, and dragon tongue beans and rainbow chard at the edge.Don't be afraid to mix in traditional ornamentals. Nasturtiums are a classic companion for beans, providing a carpet of edible orange blooms. Marigolds and calendula add pops of gold, while deterring soil pests. This intentional mixing creates a garden that feels abundant, healthy, and deeply personal, as well as incredibly tasty. Bring on summer.

Shop Veg Seed Superstars

Ready to turn your borders into a gorgeous gourmet masterpiece? This curated trio of edimental seed favorites dutifully carry out "double duty" in beds and borders, producing crops that are as easy on the eyes as they are on the palate. Sow these gorgeous veg varieties for high-impact color and low-maintenance loveliness.

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Finding yellow leaves on plants is very common. The scientific term for the phenomenon is chlorosis. For mature plants, it might just mean you’re at the end of the growing season. For tomato seedlings, yellow leaves mean something is wrong – but don’t panic yet.

From nutrient deficiencies to incorrect watering, many of the factors that lead to tomato seedlings turning yellow are easy to reverse. This is one of the most common tomato seedling problems and once you determine the cause, you can resolve the issue.

I’ll share the top reasons why tomato seedlings yellow and how to fix them. Just avoid the care mistakes below that cause this problem. Then start working towards a solution so you can grow strong, healthy, green plants that produce tons of tasty tomatoes.

Why Are My Tomato Seedlings Turning Yellow?

Yellowing is very common among the possible problems when growing tomatoes and it's often fixable, so there's no need to stress. The list of care mistakes below will help you identify the cause of tomato seedlings turning yellow and provide solutions help plants regain their green color.

1. You're Overwatering

Overwatering seedlings is probably the most common underlying cause of yellowing leaves. It can be tricky to strike the right balance with water. Seedlings need consistent moisture, but too much water can cause roots to suffocate and ultimately rot. This leads to tomato seedlings turning yellow because they can’t absorb adequate nutrients.

When watering seedlings, aim for soil that never dries out entirely but is also never soggy or waterlogged. Your seedlings should be in trays or small pots with a light, well-draining potting mix like this one from Miracle-Gro and drainage holes, so water can’t get trapped.

If your seed trays have become waterlogged and the seedlings are yellowing, let them dry out a bit before watering again. If the container isn’t draining, repot your seedlings in a container that will drain excess water.

2. You're Underwatering

Tomato seedlings can also yellow if the watering balance tips in the other direction towards too dry. As with overwatering, underwatering prevents the roots from taking up enough nutrients to promote healthy, green growth.

If you catch this issue early, it’s very easy to fix. Aim to water your seed trays regularly, keeping the soil consistently moist but not soggy or drenched. When dryness is a problem, it’s important to check on seedlings daily. If you see any dry soil on top, give them some water.

A watering can that can direct water towards the roots and produces a fine spray, like this seedling watering can from Amazon, is good for delicate young tomato plants.

3. You're Not Fertilizing

Watering issues are common and easy to fix, but if you’ve mastered it and still have yellowing, it’s time to consider nutrient deficiencies. The deficiency most likely to cause yellow leaves is nitrogen.

Look at how the leaves have become yellow. If they started yellowing from the leaves at the bottom, followed by the upper leaves, then nitrogen is the likely culprit. Less commonly, a lack of iron or potassium can cause yellowing on the newest leaves.

To prevent nutrient deficiencies, you can use compost in your potting mix when starting seeds. This will provide them with a rich substrate to promote healthy growth.

Alternatively, you can fertilize seedlings with a balanced but diluted liquid fertilizer after the first true leaves emerge. This organic liquid fertilizer from Amazon is a good choice. Apply the diluted solution every two to three weeks as seedlings grow.

4. You're Not Providing Enough Light

Bright light is essential for healthy seedling growth. Are your tomato plants getting enough light? If not, they can definitely turn yellow from the reduced photosynthesis.

Another sign of inadequate light is leggy growth. This means the stems are growing tall yet thin as they stretch to reach any available light.

Be sure your seedlings are getting 12 to 16 hours of direct, bright light per day. If sunny windows are scarce, use artificial lights, like this affordable grow light from Amazon, to give tomatoes a boost.

Situate lights a few inches from the tops of the seedlings. If you are using light from a window, rotate the seed trays regularly so they get even sunlight.

5. Your Plants Have a Disease

Hopefully, you’ve found the cause of your yellowing seedlings in one of the above issues. Tomato diseases are much more serious and more difficult to manage. They're also less likely to be the problem compared to the typical issues of lighting, water, and nutrients.

Fungal infections are most common, but you might also have a bacterial issue. Less common are viral diseases in tomato seedlings. Diseases in tomato seedlings often begin with yellowing from the top of the plant down. They are also associated with other signs, like spots on leaves or wilting.

If you see signs of a fungal disease, like fusarium wilt or early blight, remove the affected leaves or entire seedlings. You can try a fungicide, like this one from Bonide, if the infection hasn’t spread too far.

Bacterial diseases, like bacterial leaf spot, often come from the seed. That's why it’s so important to buy from reputable sources. Burpee has tons of high-quality tomato seeds, including many disease-resistant varieties. If your seeds were infected, all your seedlings are likely impacted and you may need to start over.

To prevent diseases in tomato seedlings, start with good seeds. Use clean, sterile seed starting mix and seed trays. Avoid overcrowding your seedlings, which can lead to disease spread. Good air flow between plants is important, too. Water only at the soil level and remove any seedlings that look diseased as soon as you spot the signs of illness.

For tomato seedlings, yellow leaves can mean many things. It’s a common phenomenon and shouldn't be too worrying as long as you determine the cause. The most important thing you can do when growing tomatoes from seeds is to keep a close eye on the seedlings as they develop.

Check them at least once a day for signs of watering issues, nutrient deficiencies, diseases, and other problems. The earlier you catch these issues, the easier they are to fix and the more likely it is you’ll be able to save your little seedlings.

Have you ever found yourself completely overrun with one vegetable for a week, then completely without it the rest of the season? Or have you had a vegetable peter out before the end of the summer, leaving a bare and unproductive spot in its place? These are very common problems in the world of vegetable gardening, but luckily they’re very easy to fix.

The solution is called “succession planting,” and it’s the strategic art of staggering your garden’s production so that you harvest small amounts of food over a long period rather than facing a vegetable avalanche all at once.

There are a few different ways to approach succession planting, and you can implement one or all of them in your vegetable garden. Let’s dive in!

1. Relay Planting

Also called staggered sowing, relay succession planting is a way to get a fresh harvest of the same crop every week for an extended period of time. It’s a simple concept: instead of planting a full row of a specific crop on a single day, you plant smaller portions at regular intervals. Once the first portion matures, you harvest it. Then before you know it, the second portion will be ready to harvest, and so on.

Relay planting doesn’t work with every kind of plant (try it with tomatoes and you’ll drown in fruit), but it’s effective for a lot of favorites. The most common ones are:

• Lettuce
• Beans
• Peas
• Corn
• Carrots
• Radish
• Spinach
• Beets
• Greens

To do relay planting, simply plan on planting a new set of seeds every two to three weeks. It’s easiest to keep track of if you do it in rows, like the picture at the top of this article. Continue planting like this for the whole season. When the first batch is ready for harvest, you can reuse that area you just harvested to continue planting more seeds.

2. Intercropping

This involves planting a second crop into the spaces of a first crop before the first is even finished. In other words, you place a warm season plant right up next to a cool season plant.

For example, you can plant spinach interspersed with tomatoes. Spinach thrives early in the season, and will likely go in the ground well before the tomatoes are. When the tomatoes finally go in, they can be interspersed with the larger spinach plants.

The spinach will keep the soil cool and moist, creating a cozy spot for the fledgling tomatoes. By the time the tomato seedlings really start to take off and need more space, the spinach will have run its course and be ready to pull.

3. Crop Rotation

For the gardener with limited space, succession planting vegetables can double or even triple a garden's production. It does take a little planning, the results are worth it.

Basically, crop rotation takes advantage of the different needs of a wide variety of vegetables and your own seasonal cycle. For example, in an area where you get a temperate spring, summer, and fall, you would plant a short season cool crop in spring. Harvest that, then plant a longer season warm weather crop in summer. Harvest that, then plant another short season cool crop in fall. All three plants grow in the same patch of soil, and not an unproductive day goes by.

An example of this kind of succession planting in the garden might be lettuce (spring), followed by tomatoes (summer), and followed by cabbage (fall).

If you live in a hotter climate, you can even get away with planting four crops in one spot:

• Winter: short season cool crop (spinach)
• Spring: long season warm crop (squash)
• Summer: heat tolerant crop (okra)
• Fall: long season warm crop (tomatoes)

This style of vegetable garden succession planting takes full advantage of all of your garden space at all times during the growing season.

Succession Planting Essentials

If you're growing a garden, there's a decent chance you're growing tomatoes. They're the most popular crop, and one that has a massive payoff in flavor.

Of course gardening is rarely as easy as tossing some seeds in the ground and walking away. Tomatoes, in particular, need a little extra TLC and a little extra gear, especially if you want to get the most out of your plant.

But how much is too much? Once you dip your toe into the world of tomato growing accoutrements, you'll discover that the sky's the limit on what people will sell you. They'll insist, naturally, that you need all of it.

You probably don't, though. And you especially don't need the most expensive tomato fertilizers or slings specially designed to support ripening fruit.

To help you out, here's a breakdown of the tomato garden products it's worth splurging on a little bit, and the ones you can feel fine saving on.

Where to Splurge

I've tried my best to find a "cheap" splurge for each one of these, because we're growing tomatoes here, not buying an engagement ring.

Strong Plants

This is possibly the most important one. No matter how much you coddle your tomato plants, you're going to be fighting an uphill battle if you don't start strong. Starting strong means buying disease-resistant, healthy seeds or seedlings from a reputable seller. (Burpee is great!) You can buy all of these as seeds or live seedlings.

High Quality Soil

Not all soil is created equal, and even good soil isn't necessarily right for the job you have in mind. If you're growing in a container, you really need potting soil, which drains better and will keep your potted container from getting waterlogged. Grow outdoors in a bed, and you can get that cheaper garden soil.

No matter what, don't just dig up dirt from outside to fill a container – that's a sure way to rot your roots. And if you want to grow tomatoes in the ground, get your soil tested first. A lot of soil contains lead and other heavy metals and shouldn't be used to grow edibles.

Proper Fertilizer

Tomatoes are heavy feeders, and while they will probably survive fine without it, regular feeding may be the difference between an okay harvest and a bumper crop. Opt for a vegetable or tomato fertilizer. This will ensure you get lots of fruit and not just endless green vines.

Rich Compost

Just like with the fertilizer, high-quality compost can be the thing that makes a good tomato crop. You don't have to break the bank, but opt for something a little richer and you'll notice a difference.

Sturdy Support

If you've read my other writing about tomatoes, you know that I have a long-standing beef with cheap wire tomato cages. Tomatoes spend all summer growing heavier and more unwieldy – you don't want them collapsing under their own weight at the height of production.

My personal favorite is the modular cage below. It's sturdy, it's adjustable, and it collapses down to fit in your shed at the end of the year. Plus it's cheap!

Where to Save

Now we get into the nice part of the article, where you can breathe a sigh of relief and actually save a little money.

Seed Starting Trays

Seed starting trays like this one from Amazon are super convenient, and they're really not that expensive. But you don't need one to have success starting tomatoes from seed indoors. You can start seeds in an egg carton, or you can make a seed snail from bubble wrap. Heck, you can even start seeds in an ice cream cone! Your tomatoes will probably come out the same.

Containers

You don't even need to diy this one. Want to grow tomatoes in containers? Have a container? You're good to go!

Just make sure your container is big – tomato plants can get massive. And make sure there's at least one drainage hole. If you want, you can buy special tomato containers with a built-in trellis, but it's really not necessary.

Mulch

Anything can be mulch! Wood chips, grass clippings, straw. You can always buy mulch, but it's not a necessity.

Ties

Ties are something you might not think you need when you first plant a tomato. After all, it looks so small. But as the tomato plant grows, you'll probably need to attach it to its cage or trellis, just to keep it moving in the right direction. Commercial ties like this one from Amazon are super cheap. But if that's still too much for you, try using pantyhose or ribbon. As long as it's flat, so it doesn't cut into the soft flesh of the plant.

Potatoes are an incredibly versatile root crop. There are 5,000 different cultivars of potato plants to choose from in an array of colors, sizes, and tastes. With so many options available and their versatility in the kitchen, it's no wonder why growing potatoes is popular for many home gardeners.

Learning how to grow potatoes isn't hard, in fact, it is a fun activity for gardeners of all ages to try. But in order to get a big harvest of these delicious root vegetables, you have to provide potatoes with the specific care needs they require. Luckily, that's easy to do.

If you’re interested in planting potatoes in your vegetable garden, our team of plant experts has you covered. Just follow the care guidelines below to grow huge harvest of tasty taters!

Quick Potato Facts

How to Plant Potatoes

Potatoes are a cool weather crop. They are also one of the most important staple crops in the world. But they rely on specific light, water, temperature, soil, and fertility requirements along with attention to pests and diseases to produce a healthy crop.

Soil Requirements

Potatoes need well-draining soil, preferably a bit sandy. Soil that doesn't drain well can cause tubers to rot and ruin your whole crop. If you have a heavy clay soil in your garden, you may be better off growing potatoes in containers, like potato grow bags, to prevent issues.

Potatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6-6.5. Acidic soil helps prevent potato scab on tubers. But they can tolerate a soil pH as low as 5.

Potatoes also need rich, fertile soil because they are heavy feeders. Mix compost into your soil before planting to ensure your potatoes get the nutrients they need to produce tons of edible tubers.

Light Requirements

Potatoes are sun lovers and should be grown in full sun. That said, in hotter climates, the hot afternoon sun can cause leaf scald while in areas with poor sun exposure, the plants will likely be lanky and spindly.

Temperature & Humidity

Potatoes are a cool season crop and thrive in temperatures between 65-80°F (18-27°C) during the day and around 55-65°F (13-18°C) at night.

Although they can handle short spurts of overly humid weather, it is not a necessity for potatoes. That said, somewhere within the range of 60-80% relative humidity will keep your potatoes happy.

Planting

Soil temperature should be at least 55°F (13°C) during the day and 45°F (7°C) at night before planting seed potatoes. If the soil is too wet and cold, sprouting will be delayed and seed pieces may rot.

Potato seed bed preparation is important before planting potatoes as well. Space pieces 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) apart and 4 inches (10 cm) deep in rows that are 30-36 inches (76-91 cm) apart. Smaller fingerling potatoes can be spaced closer together, about 8 inches (20 cm) apart.

Care

After planting, potatoes will begin to produce new tubers underground and lots of leafy foliage above the surface of the soil. Here's how to care for potato plants to ensure they grow tons of tasty tubers for your to harvest.

Watering

Potatoes thrive in consistently moist soil, but there can be too much of a good thing. Overly wet soil can lead to rot, so there is a fine line between too much and not enough when it comes to watering potatoes.

In general, depending upon the weather, potato plants need 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week to produce healthy tubers. Mulch around plants to help retain moisture and cut down on the need for watering as well as prevent underwatering.

Fertilizing

Potatoes have a shallow root system which means they tend to like more fertilizer than other crop types. Start feeding your potatoes at the beginning by incorporating some well-aged compost into their planting hole. A soil test will help you figure out when and how much fertilizer to apply thereafter.

In lieu of a soil test, use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb (454 g) per 10 row feet before planting and mixed into the soil. Then sidedress at the rate of 5 lbs (2.7 kg) per 10 row feet a week after emergence and water into the soil. Finally, side dress another 5 lbs (2.7 kg) per 10 row feet 4-6 weeks after emergence and water in.

Mulching & Hilling

Hill potatoes by adding 2-4 inches (5-10 cm) of soil or compost around the top of the plant when the tubers begin to emerge from the soil. This is to ensure that light does not cause tuber greening.

Mulch around the plants with wood chips or straw to retain moisture, block light and slow down weeds. Keep an eye on the hills and add more soil, compost, or organic mulch as needed to keep the emerging potatoes covered.

Harvesting

Early potatoes are ready to harvest in about 10-12 weeks as early as mid-June while larger spuds are ready from late August to October.

Harvest potatoes when their vines die back and lose their color. Use a potato fork to gently lift the tubers from the ground or remove the entire plant and harvest the tubers.

You can eat them right away or cure them for prolonged storage. Use or dispose of any damaged spuds immediately. If you want to store your potatoes for later, lay the tubers out in a single layer in a warm, dark, aerated area for about 10 days.

Brush any dirt off the tubers, don’t wash them, before storing. Store your potatoes in a dark, cool, area of about 32-40°F (0-4°C) with a 95% relative humidity. This curing process allows the skins to set and any minor wounds to heal over. If you plan on frying your spuds, store them at a warmer 40-50°F (4-10°C).

Potato Varieties

There are many varieties of potatoes. The kind you grow should reflect your particular climate and garden as well as your personal taste. Different varieties are better suited to certain culinary purposes than others.

Here are a few of the most common potatoes that gardeners grow, though there are many more unique potato varieties and heirloom potatoes to try as well.

• Russet potatoes are the classic variety you probably think of when you hear the word potato. They are great for baking, frying, or mashing! You can get Russet seed potatoes from Walmart.
• 'Yukon Gold' is a delicious potato with creamy yellow flesh. They are my favorite type to cook with, especially for mashed potatoes. Get Yukon Gold seed potatoes from Burpee.
• 'Red Pontiac' is a very popular choice, if you want to grow red potatoes in your garden. They are flavorful and make great new potatoes. You can get Red Pontiac seed potatoes at the Home Depot.

Common Problems

There are many pests, diseases, and disorders that may afflict potatoes. Healthy spuds are less likely to be susceptible to common potato problems.

Pests like aphids, Colorado beetles, and flea beetles to name a few are known to inflict damage on potato crops.

Diseases, usually fungal like early or late blight also may be an issue with potato production. These can be treated with fungicides but are best avoided by using disease resistant or free seeds, maintaining good fertility and proper irrigation techniques.

Disorders such as tuber greening is the result of light exposure on spuds. Keep the tubers covered with soil in the garden and store the potatoes in a cool, dark area after harvest.

Irregularly shaped tubers or those with dry, cracked skins are the result of fluctuating irrigation. Mulch around the plants to retain moisture.

Growing Potatoes in Containers

Potatoes grow well in containers. A potato container can be a pot or a bucket or a grow bag, like these one from Amazon. Use 2-3 seed potatoes per 5-gallon bucket. Grow them as you would in the ground, paying careful attention to add soil as tubers emerge to keep them covered up.

Frequently Asked Questions

Potato Growing Essentials

If you’re anything like me, patience probably isn’t your strongest trait... particularly when it comes to gardening. I know, I know; there’s something deeply satisfying about sowing seeds and watching them grow – but waiting months for a harvest? It sometimes feels impossible.

The good news is, if you time things right (and depending on your USDA Planting Zone), April is the perfect moment to plant a handful of fast-growing vegetables that will reward you in just a few short weeks.

Yes, whether you’re working with raised beds, containers, or a small garden border, there’s plenty you can grow now and enjoy before summer even begins. The key is choosing the right varieties. So, with that in mind...

7 Fast Vegetables to Sow in April

As the soil begins to warm and daylight hours stretch out, it's time to turn your attention to the quiet overachievers of the vegetable patch.

While crops like tomatoes and peppers need a longer growing season, leafy greens and quick-rooting vegetables can be ready to pick in as little as three to four weeks. And for gardeners in USDA Zones 5–9, that means planting in April can genuinely lead to harvests by May or early June. (In cooler regions, you may be looking at slightly later harvests, while warmer zones might see results even sooner).

If you’re after big homegrown flavor in no time flat (or as close to it as possible), then these are the vegetables to sow now.

1. Arugula

Ready in 20–30 days, arugula is one of the quickest crops you can grow. Even better? You can start snipping the baby leaves from these peppery salad staples in just a few weeks, and it will keep producing if you harvest regularly. Pick yourself up a packet of arugula seeds, then, and get sowing.

2. Lettuce

History buffs will know already that Catherine of Aragon made salad trendy after she married Henry VIII, and demanded specialized gardeners to grow lettuce for her. Little wonder; loose-leaf lettuce varieties are ideal for impatient gardeners (and queens) as they can be ready between 25-45 days. Rather than waiting for full heads, you can harvest young leaves early and often. Try Burpee Buttercrunch Lettuce Seeds and see for yourself.

3. Radish

If you want near-instant results, radishes are hard to beat. They germinate quickly and are ready to pull in under a month. With so many radish varieties available, why not mix things up and buy yourself a Multicolor Radish Seed Packet Collection so you can try out six different salad veggies and figure out your favorite?

4. Spinach

Spinach has always been a bit of a posterchild for green vegetables, hasn't it? Whether you're blitzing it into smoothies, wilting it into sauces, or eating it raw like Popeye the Sailor Man himself, spinach thrives in the cool conditions of early spring. Harvest leaves while they’re young and tender for the best flavor (they should be ready in under 45 days). Try the Burpee Double Choice Hybrid Spinach Seeds if you want them ready even quicker.

5. Green Onions

Also known as scallions, green scallions are wonderfully low-maintenance filler crops. You can start snipping the green tops early or let them grow on for a fuller harvest; either way, they'll be out of the ground and on your table somewhere between 30 and 60 days after planting. Grab yourself a packet of Scallion Seeds and get sowing, stat.

6. Sugar Snap Peas

Okay, we admit it: these are a little slower than leafy greens. Still, peas are still a great early-season crop, especially if you haven't the patience for anything too time-consuming. Plant them in April and you’ll likely be harvesting crisp, sweet pods by early summer. Try Sugar Daddy Snap Pea Seeds for the name alone!

7. Baby Kale

Kale might have a reputation as a slow grower, but harvested young, it’s surprisingly quick. Baby leaves are tender, mild, and perfect for salads, and they only need around 24-40 days to reach their tasty peak. Well worth the price of a pack of kale seeds, right?

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When you’re aiming for a quick turnaround, take care to sow into warmed soil where possible, water consistently, and harvest little and often to encourage plants to keep producing. And, failing all of the above, why not set up a container garden full of herbs?

Honestly, whichever route you go down, these fast-growing vegetables prove that you don’t need a huge garden to enjoy homegrown produce... or bucketloads of patience, either. All you need are the right crops and a willingness to get stuck in this April.

If you put the work in now, you'll find that you're bringing plenty of fresh flavor to your kitchen far sooner than you dreamed possible.

From beefsteak to baby cherry, heirlooms to hybrids, there are over 10,000 known tomato varieties, so we can be forgiven for finding it difficult to decide which is best tomato to grow in our gardens. But that incredible assortment does mean that, however big or small your backyard is, and whatever your USDA zone or growing conditions, there’s a variety that’s perfect for you. Not too big, not too small, but Goldilocks-just-right for an abundant harvest of flavorful fruits that makes the most of whatever outdoor space you’ve got.

I’ve been growing tomatoes for 20 years, starting off with a single small plant in a patio pot and gradually scaling my harvest up to match my garden size, and now I have a veggie patch heaving with ginormous vines. I like to experiment with different varieties every year, only regrowing those that really earn their garden space with lots of tasty toms, and zero hassle. So I can promise that, even if you’ve only got a windowsill to spare, you can enjoy flavorful, easy-to-grow tomatoes all summer long. The secret is simply to find the best tomato variety for your growing conditions.

Get that match right and rest is simple. All these varieties are straightforward to grow (I've included links so you can see exactly what products I'm talking about, but do support your local retailers, too). Start seeds in seed starter mix such as this from Gardenera via Amazon, or get a head start with a young plant that can go straight into a container of a nutritious all-purpose potting mix such as this from Amazon. Stake unless it’s a bush variety – using a cage is the easiest option, but make sure it’s strong like this one from Amazon as tomatoes are heavy!

If you’re growing tomatoes in the ground, then enrich your soil first with organic matter such as worm castings like these from Amazon. Adding coir like this from Amazon, too, will improve the soil’s drainage and ability to hold water – and consistent moisture is key to growing great tomatoes. Enriched soil or potting mix will have enough nutrients for strong growth but, once you spot flowers and the first fruit beginning to set, you can fuel an abundant harvest with a tomato feed such as Espoma Organic Tomato! from Amazon. Plants in pots will need more regular feeding than those growing in the ground.

Here are my top 10 tomato varieties to grow for maximum flavor in whatever garden space you’ve got. Which one is just right for you?

1. Best Tomato For a Windowbox or Balcony: Verandah Red

This little powerhouse of a plant means everyone can grow tomatoes as it only reaches just over a foot tall and wide. It’s been bred to thrive in a container so pop it in a windowbox or a balcony pot for abundant cherry tomatoes in the tiniest of spaces. You could grow it as a centrepiece for your outdoor dining table for the freshest of pickings for summer meals. Or it can even be grown on a sunny windowsill indoors: just gently shake the plant to pollinate flowers in the absence of bees.

As it’s a determinate variety, ‘Verandah Red’ naturally grows into a bushy shape that doesn’t need staking. Incredibly versatile and quick to mature in around 60 days, it can be grown in all zones.

2. Best Tomato For a Veggie Patch: Rain Drops

If you’ve got the room to stake 8-foot-high and 2–3-foot-wide ‘Rain Drops’ in a veggie patch, then you’ll enjoy flavorful cherry tomatoes right up to the first frost. This indeterminate hybrid has been bred to be direct-sown straight into the soil and it’s very straightforward to grow, even for beginner gardeners. And, as its name suggests, it’s pretty weatherproof with good resistance to cracking should a heatwave hit.

It takes 70 days to mature, so get seeds into the ground as soon as possible after your last frost date.

3. Best Tomato For a Huge Backyard: SteakHouse

One of the world’s largest beefsteak tomatoes, just one ‘SteakHouse’ tom can weigh up to 3lbs and a single slice is enough for a whole sandwich! Also known as ‘Gigantomo’, this variety is incredibly flavorful for its size, with a wonderful fragrance. This is an indeterminate variety so it needs strong support, and can grow up to 6 feet tall and wide. It takes around 80 days to mature so needs a long growing season in a warm, sunny climate, so it’s best suited to zones 7–9 but will be fine in zones 5–6 as long as it has a sunny, sheltered spot.

4. Best Tomato For a Hanging Basket: Sunpeach

Pop ‘Sunpeach’ in a sturdy hanging basket and you’ll have cascading stems studded with pretty pink-tinged cherry tomatoes all summer long. Give it the biggest basket you can and hang it high on a strong chain, though, because this is a highly productive variety and stems can grow to 8 feet long!

Choose a solid-sided hanging basket to conserve moisture, but you’ll still need to water extra regularly as compost will dry out more quickly in an exposed spot. Unlike many similar cultivars, this indeterminate variety is highly resistant to cracking and, as long as you look after it, it’ll reward you with toms till the first frost. It does best in a hanging basket in zones 5–8; while it will cope in zones 3 and 4, and 9, it's better to give it an easier life growing vertically in a trellised container.

5. Best Tomato For a Trellis or Fence: Super Sweet 100

‘Super Sweet 100’ is incredibly abundant with pendulous clusters of bright red cherry tomatoes, making it as attractive as it is productive. Plants can grow to 6 feet high – and even taller in the right conditions – but only spread to around 1½ feet, making it the perfect shape to grow up a trellis fixed to a fence. The tomatoes are beautifully sweet, so this variety will provide you with plenty of gardening snacks, too.

This is an indeterminate variety so it will produce tomatoes all summer long and, if you look after it, into fall. It prefers a warmer climate so zones 5–9 give optimal conditions.

6. Best Cherry Tomato For a Patio Pot: Baby Boomer

The competition for this category was tough, as plenty of cherry tomato varieties have been bred especially for patio pots. But ‘Baby Boomer’ earns my top spot on account of its incredible abundance in the smallest of spaces. One plant measuring just 2 feet high and wide can produce around 300 tomatoes, and each is a 1oz gem bursting with sweet flavor. It’s fabulously quick to mature, too, taking just 50–55 days to fruit.

‘Baby Boomer’s only downfall is that it tends to produce its fruit all at once so, if you want patio pickings that keep coming all summer, ‘Sweetheart of the Patio’ is a better choice. Or, even better, grow both! 'Baby Boomer' and 'Sweetheart of the Patio' are both suitable for zones 3–11.

7. Best Beefsteak Tomato For a Patio Pot: BushSteak

Years ago, you needed to have plenty of garden space to grow beefsteak tomatoes, but not any more! ‘BushSteak’ brings big 8–12oz tomatoes on compact plants less than 2 feet tall. The flavour is rich and the texture meaty, so don’t worry that this dwarf plant doesn’t pack just as tasty a punch as taller varieties.

Despite being determinate variety, it’s a good idea to support ‘BushSteak’ on account of the weight of those standout beefsteaks. Because it’s so versatile, and an early producer with toms in as little as 65 days, this variety can be grown in zones 2–11.

8. Best Tomato For Southern States: Heatmaster

Bred to excel in hot, humid climates where many other varieties struggle, ‘Heatmaster’ is the perfect choice if you live in zones 8–11. As it’s a bushy determinate variety, it’ll cope fine with life in a container as well as in the ground, though it’ll still need a cage as it grows to 3 feet high and wide.

This slicer produces 7–8oz toms with an excellent flavor, and though it’s a little slower to mature than others, taking 75 days, that’s not a problem with the long growing season of southern states.

9. Best Tomato For Northern States: Early Girl

This variety matures incredibly quickly, growing from a seedling to a fruiting plant in around 59 days, making an excellent choice for the shorter growing season of northern states. ‘Early Girl’ is an indeterminate variety with 5oz toms, growing to around 4½ feet high and wide, that carries on fruiting all summer.

If you want to stick seeds straight in the ground – yes, even in the North! – then this Garden Sown Early Bird determinate variety is cold tolerant so grows well from an early direct sowing. It grows smaller cherry toms and takes 75 days to mature.

10. Best Tomato For High Rainfall Areas: Mountain Magic

Think it’s not worth growing toms because your high rainfall and humidity invite every tomato disease going? Think again! ‘Mountain Magic’ has been bred for incredible disease resistance to blight and wilt so, even if you’re an organic gardener, this variety will treat you to a plentiful crop of red cherry tomatoes.

This indeterminate hybrid grows to around 4 feet high and wide, producing 2–3oz fruit all the way to the first frost. Because of its robust nature, ‘Mountain Magic’ can be grown in zones 3–11 but, as it’s a little slow to mature, taking up to 80 days to fruit, it’s best to start with a young plant rather than seed at this point in the year, if you have a shorter growing season.

A tomato harvest in summer and early fall is one of the joys of gardening for many. Tasty, ripe tomatoes are delicious raw and cooked, and with so many varieties to choose from, you can enjoy everything from tiny, sweet grapes to big slicers if you know what you’re doing.

Growing tomatoes isn’t difficult, but getting healthy plants and a good harvest depends a lot on what you do early in the growing season. April is a critical time for tomatoes to establish strong roots, grow strong stems, and transition to the outdoor environment. Patience pays with tomatoes, so take time now to do these critical April tasks and reap the benefits later.

1. Nurture Your Seedlings

In most growing zones, you will have started tomato seeds indoors before April. If you're in a colder zone, like 3 or 4, you might just be starting seeds in early April, but they should be taking off with steady growth by the end of the month.

Don’t make the mistake of being totally hands-off with your seedlings. They need care and nurturing now during this crucial growth period to ensure they develop strong stems and roots. First, make sure the soil stays consistently moist but not soggy. While still small, you can cover seedlings with plastic wrap to keep more moisture in.

Sunlight is also critical for strong growth. Make sure your seedlings get at least 12 hours of light per day. Even more is better. If using a window, rotate seed trays for even light distribution. The best way to get your indoor tomato seedlings enough light is to position them directly under a grow light, like this one from Amazon.

Brush your fingers lightly over the seedlings a few times a day. This mimics wind, which, when grown outdoors, helps seedlings develop stronger stems. Alternatively, you can place a gentle oscillating fan near the seedlings throughout the day.

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2. Pot Up and Feed Larger Seedlings

Another important step in growing tomato seedlings into healthy plants is transitioning them into pots. Keeping them crowded in small seedling trays can lead to plants becoming rootbound, resulting in thin, weak root growth that won’t support plants well later.

Once you see the first set of true leaves and the seedlings are sturdy enough to be handled carefully, move them to larger accommodations. Use one small pot per plant to give them room to grow and to avoid the overcrowding that can lead to poor airflow and fungal infections.

This is also a good time to start fertilizing tomatoes. Use a balanced (10-10-10 is good) fertilizer like this one from Amazon, diluted to half strength, every two to three weeks.

3. Start Hardening Off

Tomatoes are hot-weather plants. They thrive in summer but struggle in the cooler shoulder seasons. Your growing zone and the year’s weather determine when you’ll transplant seedlings outdoors. Only if you live in zone 7 or warmer are you likely to be able to transplant in April. Soil temperatures need to be at least 60 F (15.5 C).

If the time is approaching, you can start hardening off your small tomato plants before making the final transplant. Hardening off is the process of gradually exposing plants to outdoor conditions, so they're not shocked and then damaged when moved out full-time.

Place your small pots of tomato plants in a protected area outdoors with dappled shade for a couple of days (bringing them back inside at night). Over the next few days, increase the amount of time they spend in direct sunlight outdoors by an hour or two. Finally, leave them outside all day in the sun for a few days and overnight if the temperatures are above 50 F (10 C).

4. Prepare the Soil

When it’s warm enough outside and the plants have been hardened off, they’re ready for transplanting, but is the soil? Take time to get the soil right, either in beds or large containers, to give your plants the best start in the great outdoors.

First, if you’re not certain about the temperature, check it. The soil needs to be at least 60 degrees. It is possible to warm cold soil. If air temperatures feel right but the soil is still cool, place black sheeting over it for a few days. The soil under it will absorb heat from the sun and warm faster.

If planting tomatoes in beds, dig down deep and mix some compost into the soil to improve drainage and add nutrients. If you’re growing tomatoes in containers, get your mix or ready-made potting soil prepared and ready for planting.

5. Transplant (If It's Warm Enough!)

When the time is right, and you’ve done all the preparatory work, you can transplant your tomatoes from their small pots to their permanent outdoor locations. Tomatoes can be planted deep. Dig deep holes for tomato plants and bury them up to the first set of leaves on the stem. Tomato plants grow extra roots from the stem, so this will stimulate more roots to help feed and stabilize the plants. If they're extra leggy, try trench planting.

Tomato plants should be spaced two to three feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) apart for good airflow. Provide some type of support for the vines, either stakes or tomato cages. Finally, add some mulch to the soil to help keep moisture in the soil and to prevent dirt from splashing onto leaves during rain or when watering.

April is a time of patient effort when it comes to growing tomatoes. Take time now to do the work, and you’ll be pleased with the results come August.

The idea of plants working together to protect one another is appealing enough that it sometimes gets ahead of the evidence. Gardening forums, seed catalogs, and well-meaning books have been circulating the same companion planting tips for decades, and it’s not always that easy to separate fact from fiction. Indeed, we may not even think there is fiction. We might believe that if a pairing has been suggested since the 1970s, it must have a definitive basis in reality. But are we being too trusting of what may often amount to vegetable companion planting myths?

Understanding vegetable companion planting properly means separating mechanism from myth. To empower your gardening choices this year, it’s time to get a handle on how effective certain plant partnerships really are. Some pairings offer measurable benefits, such as pest suppression, soil improvement, and structural support. But other pairings rely on assumptions about insect behavior that modern science doesn't support. This distinction matters if you’re planning a garden around these ideas.

It’s good to be confident that every square inch of your veg patch is working in harmony towards the healthiest, most bountiful crops. So let’s plant with purpose, and make sure we really are choosing plant partners that want to be together. To ensure fewer pests and bigger harvests, here are 6 companion planting truths every savvy homegrower needs to know.

Meet The Myths

It is easy to see why companion gardening myths persist. They can offer simple, poetic solutions to frustrating problems, like aphids and wilt. We’ve selected these 3 myths because they are some of the heavy hitters of garden lore, with familiarity in a range of USDA zones. They represent variations of the aromatic shield idea, which suggests that if a plant smells strong enough to us, it must be a nightmare for bugs.

By debunking these vegetable garden companion planting myths, we’re hoping to help you tool up in a more thoughtful way, for a more successful growing and harvesting season. When you stop relying on a single marigold to save your tomatoes, you free yourself to use more effective strategies, like physical barriers or integrated pest management. This myth busting can be very liberating: once the myths are gone, you have more room for the stuff that works!

1. The Marigold Shield

Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) turn up in almost every companion planting guide as a near-universal pest deterrent. The reality is narrower than that. Tagetes plants do contain alpha-terthienyl, a compound with documented effects on root-knot nematodes in the soil. However, producing a meaningful result requires dense, sustained plantings across the whole bed, the kind of coverage you’d get from a cover crop. A decorative border of a dozen plants isn’t going to do it.

To truly suppress nematodes, you need a solid block of tagetes grown for at least two months, then tilled into the soil. If nematodes are your actual target, a good soil test kit can help to confirm your soil health before you commit a whole bed to this labor-intensive approach. If you don’t have a kit, an easy option is the Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Kit, which is available from Amazon.

For flying insects like whiteflies or cabbage loopers, the evidence is weaker still. Pests that navigate by smell need a high, consistent concentration of volatile compounds in order to be redirected – not the ambient drift from a few marigolds scattered around your vegetable beds. You’d need a wall of marigolds to mask the chemical signature of a juicy tomato plant from a hungry pest.

So it’s a stretch to think of marigolds as a broad pest deterrent (and by marigolds, we do mean tagetes varieties and not pot marigold calendula types). Marigolds do have value. They do attract beneficial hoverflies, whose larvae eat aphids. We just need to adapt our philosophy: these plants are beneficial magnets, not pest shields. If you are considering getting some French marigolds from seed, try sowing them as a dense green manure in a fallow bed rather than just a pretty border. If you need a compact variety, try ‘Queen Sophia’ French Marigold Seeds from Burpee.

2. Tomato and Lemon Balm

The logic behind this one is that a strongly scented herb (lemon balm, basil, take your pick) will confuse insects and mask the tomatoes. This seems reasonable if we think about it with our own sense of smell. The problem is that most flying pests don’t find their hosts through smell alone. Aphids and whiteflies use visual cues and specific chemical signals. Many pests land on a green surface and use specialized receptors on their feet to check if they’ve found the right host. A whiff of lemon balm nearby isn't going to scramble those sensors once the bug has touched down.

Lemon balm is worth growing for the tea and the pollinators, but it isn’t doing any defensive work for your tomatoes. Pairings like this are based on the logic of smell masking, which is rarely effective in open-air garden settings. Also, while lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is a charmingly fragrant perennial in zones 4-9, ground-based plants can be invasive, spreading until they choke out the plants they were meant to protect. So if you want to grow this herb, keep it in a pot to prevent a takeover.

If you’re looking for something nice and affordable, Target has lovely Classic Ribbed Terracotta Pots that can keep larger vigorous herbs contained.If you love the idea of herbal companions that smell good together, basil does share similar water and light requirements, making it a convenience pairing rather than a biological shield. You can buy pungent ‘Genovese’ Basil Seeds from Burpee.

3. Garlic and Roses

This is one of those companion vegetable planting myths that has been around so long, it shows up in mainstream gardening books. The idea is that garlic planted at the base of your roses pushes its sulfur compounds up through the plant, making the blooms smell faintly of garlic and sending aphids elsewhere. This is a classic case of misunderstanding plant physiology. Roses don’t absorb volatile compounds from nearby garlic roots and express them through their petals in any meaningful way.

While garlic does have real mild antifungal properties (and it does have some effect on soil pathogens), it isn't a systemic insecticide. Now, garlic spray, applied directly to foliage as a concentrated solution, can work as a short-term contact repellent. But that is a mechanical application. A clove in the ground doesn’t release anything close to the concentration needed to bother an aphid a foot away. If you are struggling with rose pests, go for mechanical removal. Use trusted shears to remove infested buds and improve airflow, which prevents disease. If you’re in the market for a new pair, try Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon.

Garlic is a heavy feeder, and planting it under a dense rose bush often results in stunted garlic and competition for nutrients. If you want to grow garlic, give it its own space in full sun. For roses, invest in a high-quality fertilizer to keep them strong enough to naturally resist pests. If you don’t have a dedicated rose feed, Espoma Organic Rose-Tone 4-3-2 for Flowers from Amazon is a highly rated expert blend.

The Pairings That Do Hold Up

Now for the good news: when companion planting works, it works beautifully. The following power trio hold up to scrutiny because they rely on mechanical and chemical realities, not just wishful thinking. These are the pairings that will help you grow more, healthier crops with fewer interventions. Whether you are in the humid southeast or the arid west, these principles remain consistent.

The right companion plants give you a chance to forge a genuine ecosystem in your backyard. You’ll see how one plant can act as a sacrificial lamb (called a trap crop), how another can act as a nitrogen fixer, and how the third can function as a living mulch. These are tried-and-true sneaky wins that pros use to maximize yield while minimizing labor. Let’s look at why these pairings are bulletproof.

1. Brassicas and Nasturtiums

This pairing is a genuine insider favorite because it relies on a strategic sacrifice. Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum) are hyper-accumulators for specific pests, particularly the small white butterfly (whose larvae are the notorious cabbage worms) and black bean aphids. These insects find the concentrated mustard oils in nasturtiums even more alluring than your prize kale, cabbage, or broccoli. By planting them together, you aren't repelling the bad guys; you are inviting them to a decoy party. This trap crop strategy works brilliantly across all growing zones. Yes, your nasturtiums take the hit, but your slow-growing harvests live to be munched (by you) another day.

For this to work effectively, placement matters. You don't want the nasturtiums touching your brassicas, or the pests will treat them as a bridge to your greens. Instead, plant them in a lush perimeter or in islands within your beds. Because you are essentially baiting pests into your garden, monitoring is essential. Sticky traps are a great tool for tracking when aphid pressure is peaking on trap plants, and you can buy Mosqueda Yellow Sticky Traps from Amazon. When you see the nasturtium leaves becoming heavily infested or crawly, simply pull the plant, bag it, and dispose of it, removing an entire generation of pests in one move.

Nasturtiums are incredibly easy to grow from seed and they thrive in poorer soils. They’re also easy to replant mid-season so you can keep those trap plants working for you. There’s a dizzying selection of colorful varieties available to grow from seed, and they grow superfast. Try tangerine ‘Vesuvius’ or mixed color ‘Sweethearts Mix’ Seeds, both available from Burpee. They are also edible, though maybe don't eat the ones covered in aphids. This pairing is one of the most reliable, because it utilizes the pests' own natural preferences against them.

2. Corn and Beans

The Three Sisters planting group (corn, beans, and squash) is a classic for a reason. Beans are legumes, which have a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium bacteria. These bacteria pull nitrogen from the air and turn it into a mineral form in the soil that corn can then use. Corn is a heavy feeder, and craves nitrogen to grow those tall, sturdy stalks. While the beans are climbing the corn (saving you the cost of a trellis), they are also helping to replenish the soil.

For the best results, timing is everything. You should plant your corn first. Once it’s about 6 inches (15cm) tall, plant your pole beans at the base. This ensures the corn is strong enough to support the weight of the vines. If you’re looking for a great trellis-ready bean, try heirloom favorite Back to the Roots ‘Kentucky Wonder’ Pole Bean Seeds, available from Walmart, a classic high-yielding variety that is perfect for this companion planting idea. A garden soil inoculant like Park Seed Nature’s Aid Soil Inoculant, available from Amazon, can also help to give that nitrogen-fixing bacteria a head start when planting your bean seeds.

This companion planting arrangement is a real exchange, not just plants coexisting. It trades structural support for chemical nutrients. Squash (the third sister) rounds out the trio by covering the ground and shading the soil, but even as a duo, corn and beans create a formidable partnership. This pairing works across most growing zones, provided you have a long enough summer for the corn to mature. It’s the ultimate example of plants doing more together than they ever could alone.

3. Tomatoes and Squash

Big squash leaves sit low and spread out, and that’s the trick. Large-leafed plants like squash or pumpkins create a living mulch over the soil. When planted around the base of tall, upright plants like tomatoes, they shade the ground. This prevents the sun from hitting the soil, which cuts down weed germination and slows down evaporation. In heat-soaked summers, the ground stays cooler and doesn’t dry out as fast. This can be the difference between a thriving tomato plant and a wilted one.

That makes this pairing one of the most reliable companion planting benefits you can count on, because it doesn’t depend on pest behavior or soil chemistry going a particular way. Just use a sturdy cage or stake to keep tomato plants erect so they don't get smothered by squash vines, allowing the squash plants to scramble below. When the squash leaves get dense, use a moisture meter, like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon, to make sure your living mulch is doing its job.

The living mulch approach is an expert secret for reducing garden maintenance. Instead of spending your Saturday weeding and mulching with straw, you let the squash do the work for you. Choose a bush variety of squash if you have a smaller garden, or a vining variety like The Old Farmer’s Almanac Heirloom ‘Waltham’ Butternut Squash Seeds from Amazon if you have room to let them roam. This approach also works under other tall crops, wherever you have bare soil and a large-leafed sprawler available to cover it.

Shop Perfect Companions

Ready to put this insider knowledge into practice? April is a great time to lay the groundwork for some of the key planting heroes that can give your star performers and heavy croppers that helping hand. To get the best results, focus on high-quality seeds that have high germination rates. Whether you are looking for a trap crop or a pollinator magnet, these curated picks are the perfect companions for your plot.

Companion planting is as much about observation as it is about action. By letting go of the myths, you're not losing anything. Being able to separate fact from fiction brings great clarity, and helps you move towards cultivating a garden based on how plants actually grow and interact, from trap crops to nitrogen fixers, and everything in between. Your plants will be healthier, your harvests will be heavier, and you'll have some brilliant insider knowledge about companion planting for vegetable garden success – information that you can then pass on to your own gardening companions!

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You don’t need a big backyard to grow your own vegetables any more, because plant breeders have been busy creating small-space veggie varieties that not only thrive in containers but produce abundant crops. No matter how petite your patio or bijou your balcony, container gardening allows you to grow a huge range of veggies in pots to enjoy wholesome harvests of fresh produce. If you’ve been thinking about starting a veggie garden for a while, this is a great way to dip a toe in the water and see if you enjoy kitchen gardening, too.

There are many benefits to growing vegetables in pots besides saving space. For a start, raising your crops – literally! – in containers makes slug control far easier. Paving is a natural deterrent as 95% of slugs live underground. Add rings of conductive copper tape such as this from Amazon around your pots, and you have a second line of defence.

Growing vegetables in containers also means you can easily move them to give your plants exactly the right amount of sun and shade for optimum growth. That’s really handy with veggies because young plants often need plenty of sunlight to grow well in their early stages, but then a little more shade to stop them bolting (running to seed). Even a big container can be moved around easily if you stand it on a plant caddy with lockable wheels such as this dolly cart that holds pots up to 21" from Amazon.

Almost all of these tasty cultivars have been bred specifically to grow in containers, so they produce abundant crops in a small space, in record time. Many are attractive plants in their own right, too, adding aesthetic appeal as well as productive value. And some grow veggies that can be picked and eaten straight from the stem, for delicious patio snacks.

They can all be grown in all-purpose outdoor potting mix, such as this from Amazon, and I've chosen plants that mostly need similar-sized containers and the same plant food, so it's economical to grow a few together.

Which will you choose to grow this summer?

1. Tomato 'Veranda Red'

While many tomato cultivars have been bred to thrive in containers, ‘Veranda Red’ is a favorite for its small and sweet cherry tomatoes perfect for patio snacking. Despite this dwarf variety only growing to 20" high, it produces an abundant harvest, with one plant raising up to 75 tomatoes. And it’s hassle-free to grow: naturally forming a bushy shape, it doesn’t need staking, and there’s no need to pinch out the side shoots either.

Start seeds indoors as they need a temperature of 70–80°F for germination, or skip straight to the good bit with a young plant to pop straight into a 5-gallon pot such as these from Amazon (your dwarf plant will grow fine in a smaller pot but a bigger container means you need to water less often). Or use a self-watering pot such as this from Amazon to give your plant the even moisture it needs for optimum cropping. Feed regularly with a tomato feed such as Espoma Organic Tomato!, available from Amazon, and expect fruit within two months.

2. Corn ‘On Deck’

This is the first sweetcorn cultivar purposefully bred for container gardening, producing 7-8" cobs of sweet-tasting bicolored kernels. For your very own mini corn patch, sow 12–18 seeds in a 20+ gallon container once temperatures are reliably above 55°F, in all zones. Fabric planter bags such as these 25-gallon grow bags from Amazon are a far cheaper alternative to rigid-sided pots, especially when you need a larger size.

While this corn variety has been bred to be self-pollinating, shaking the tassels will help pollination along to ensure dense kernels. You’ll get two or three cobs on each 4–5'-high plant in around two months.

3. Pepper ‘Snackabelle Red’

This mini pepper cultivar is a must for a patio kitchen garden, and adults and kids alike will love the sweet flavour of the petite 2" fruits. Sweet peppers can be a faff to start from seed and typically take 2½ months to start producing, so it’s best to buy a young plant.

You’ll need a 5-gallon pot such as this from Amazon, and plant after the last frost has passed in zones 3–9. Give your pepper plant a feed with a liquid tomato feed such as Espoma Organic Tomato! which is available from Amazon, once a month. You can start harvesting the peppers when they’re green but, for the fullest, sweetest flavor, wait until they ripen to red.

4. Cucumber ‘Patio Snacker’

If you’ve never tasted a freshly picked cucumber before, harvest 'Patio Snacker' fruits while they’re still young and crisp and get ready to be surprised! This vine only grows to 2–3' tall but still produces plenty of 6–7" cucumbers. You can pick them early for a smaller, sweeter patio snack, too.

You’ll need a container of at least 5 gallon capacity such as these from Amazon. Though this is a super-short variety, you’ll still need some trellis to support the vine. Fashion your own from bamboo canes and string or push a container trellis such as these from Amazon into the pot. Make sure your trellis reaches to the bottom of the pot for sturdy support.

Heat is needed for germination so start seeds indoors using a heated seed mat such as this from Amazon, or wait until late May to sow outdoors. Grow it as an annual in a sunny, sheltered spot in zones 2–11 for cucumbers in two months.

5. Okra ‘Baby Bubba’

This dwarf okra variety is only half the height of most others yet still produces full-sized pods. It’s a stunning plant for a patio as it boasts pale yellow hibiscus-like flowers before growing up to 50 erect pods which are an architectural delight in their own right! This cultivar reaches 3–4' high so you’ll need a big pot with a capacity of at least 10 gallons. Fabric pots such as these from Amazon are a really cost-effective option when buying sizeable containers, and okra grows well in them, appreciating the excellent aeration and drainage.

Start from seed outdoors in early May and you’ll have pods in two months. Keep picking and your plant will keep producing till the first frost.

6. Eggplant ‘Patio Baby’

This little aubergine bush reaches just 16–20" and wide but produces plenty of 2–3"-long deep purple fruits. The pale lavender blooms are just as pretty as the mini eggplants, too. Start from seed indoors – they need a minimum of 70°F to germinate so use a heat mat such as this from Amazon – or buy a young plant to put straight into a pot after your last frost date has passed. It’s suitable for all zones as a summer annual but does best in a warm climate so, if you live in a colder state, be sure to give it your sunniest, most sheltered patio spot.

While you can grow eggplant ‘Patio Baby’ in a smaller container, it’s best to give it a 5 gallon pot such as these from Amazon as it’ll be far easier to maintain the consistent moisture this plant likes. This a hungry plant, too, so feed regularly with a liquid tomato feed such as Espoma Organic Tomato!, available from Amazon. It takes around 1½ months to start producing fruit in warm temperatures and up to three months in a cooler climate.

7. Summer Squash ‘Rise and Shine’

This revolutionary variety grows vertically, bringing abundant 4–8"-long squashes. The plant needs a big container and staking – or just use a tomato planter with a sturdy cage such as this metal-trellised container from Amazon. Plants grow to 4' high with huge shapely leaves and bright yellow squashes, so it makes an exciting central feature for a patio kitchen garden.

Sow seeds outdoors after your last frost date in zones 3–9, and your first squash will be ready around 55 days after germination.

8. Carrot ‘Tonga di Parigi’

These little orange delights are round instead of the usual long roots so they’re perfect for a container. The carrots aren’t any less flavorful than their bigger brothers, and are sweet and tender. This variety is an exception to our list of new cultivars as it’s been around since the 19th century, so you know those roots taste good enough to keep growing!

You can start these tough-cookie seeds off before your last frost date in all zones. Seeds can take 2–3 weeks to germinate but don’t worry and keep the compost just-moist and they’ll soon pop up. They’re fast to mature, however, and will be ready to pull in 50–70 days when the roots are 1–2" in diameter. Grow them in a container that’s at least 5 gallons in capacity, like these from Amazon, so it’s easy to keep the potting soil evenly moist, and plant a few seeds every three weeks for a continuous harvest.

9. Bush Bean ‘Porch Pick’

As their name suggests, bush beans don’t need supporting, and this variety only grows to a petite 18" high and wide so is ideal for a patio pot. You can fit four plants into a 5 gallon container (such as these from Amazon) and seeds germinate readily so start them off outdoors once your last frost date has passed. If it’s warm, you’ll see them sprout within a few days, but don’t worry if it takes up to two weeks to see growth.

Because these plants produce all their beans at once – and they do grow plenty of tender 5" green beans – if you want a steady harvest it’s best to succession-sow. This simply means sowing a couple of new seeds every 2–3 weeks.

10. Radish ‘Easter Egg’

The peppery flavor of these bright pink and white radishes varies along with the color so they’re just as much fun to eat as they are to grow. Suitable for zones 3–10, they’re super-fast to germinate and mature, and you’ll be pulling radishes around a month after sowing. They don’t appreciate the midsummer heat, though, so are best for spring and fall crops.

Sow in a container with a capacity of at least 5 gallons such as these from Amazon. Keep the potting soil consistently moist, and sow a few more seeds every 2 weeks for a long harvest.

Because these are so shallow rooted and quick to mature, you can also grow them around the pot perimeter of a bigger, slower-growing plant such as okra or corn.

Gardening advice about “fixing your soil in one season” seems to be everywhere right now – especially the idea that you can grow food while actively improving the ground it’s planted in. It’s an appealing promise: healthier soil, better harvests, and less reliance on fertilizers or compost.

One viral example comes from an Instagram slideshow by@figmentcottagegardens, which lays out a planting strategy designed to do exactly that. The caption sums it up neatly: fix your soil in one season without fertilizer or bags of compost.

I spoke to several experts to dig into the idea, and while they agree there’s real value in the approach, they say the full picture is a bit more nuanced.

The Vegetables That Actually Do the Work

The first thing to keep in mind, though, is that not all vegetables can fix or improve your soil as this trend suggests – choosing the right crops makes all the difference.

Eddie Grovu, Director of Growth and E-Commerce at Toolden, is clear on this point, saying, “The reality is that really only some crops will repair or help improve the soil structure, i.e., legumes such as peas or fava beans, adding nitrogen, then increasing future planting fertilization."

Erik Collado Vidal, CEO of Growbarato.net, agrees. "Not all vegetables will improve the soil in the same way. Some of the best edible plants for this are legumes such as peas or beans, as well as daikon radish. Legumes help the soil by improving nitrogen levels, but they do this with the help of bacteria around their roots. Daikon radish has a different role. It helps break up compacted soil and improve drainage and air circulation."

Nitrogen Fixers

Nitrogen fixers are the main attraction. Peas, fava beans, clover, and buckwheat all fall into this category. Mario Galo of G&V Tree Service explains. "Legumes, such as beans and peas, are some of the best because they work with rhizobia bacteria to turn nitrogen in the air into forms that plants can use,” he says.

Rhizobia inoculant powder, which you can buy from Amazon, treats legume seeds before planting and can boost nitrogen fixing. This can be particularly useful in new beds or soil that hasn't grown legumes before.

Staci Hill, co-author of The Preserver's Garden (available on Amazon) and co-founder of Gooseberry Bridge Farm, adds a practical tip for getting the most from legumes at the end of the season: "This works especially well if you cut off the plants at the end of the season versus pulling out the roots."

Soil Aerators

Soil aerators work differently. French Breakfast radish, daikon radish, and Easter Egg radish mix all appear in @figmentcottagegarden’s post for good reason. Grovu explains: "Daikon has deep roots that can develop air pockets within the soil, which is formed by young roots making air pockets in the ground, and this helps to aid in draining water from the soil to the subsoil."

Ida DeFrancesco of Farmer Joe's Gardens, whose family has farmed for four generations, puts it in practical terms: "In our experience, daikon radishes are incredibly effective at penetrating compacted layers and creating channels for water and air. We plant them in late summer, and by spring, the soil structure is noticeably improved."

Hill also highlights an unexpected addition to the soil-repairing roster: "Sunflowers send down a tap root that breaks up compaction, and they also remove toxins and heavy metals from the soil – though eating the seeds if you're using sunflowers to remove toxins is probably not a great idea."

Siobhan Shaw, co-founder of Growing to Give and founder of The Gardening Network, rounds out the picture with a few more practical favorites: "Peas fix nitrogen and loosen the soil, while root crops like radishes, turnips, and carrots break up compaction. Meanwhile, squash and pumpkins act as living mulch – their big leaves protecting the soil and conserving moisture."

Soil Boosting Veggie Seeds

How Long Does It Actually Take?

This is where you’ll need to manage your hopes and dreams. DeFrancesco is specific: "Legumes like field peas can add 40-80 pounds of nitrogen per acre in a single season. The key is timing – these aren't quick fixes, but you'll see meaningful soil improvements within 6-12 months if you choose the right varieties for your conditions."

Grovu is frank about the longer arc: "You may see minor improvements after one growing season. However, significant improvements to soil structure and fertility will typically take 4 or more growing cycles."

It Works Best Alongside Other Methods

Every expert makes the same point: soil-building vegetables are most effective as part of a wider approach. Before you start, it's worth knowing what you're working with. A basic soil test kit, like this one on Amazon, will tell you your soil's pH and nutrient levels, giving you a clearer picture of what it needs most.

Hill describes what the wider approach looks like in practice: "It is always best to feed your soil compostable materials – doing this in the form of some kind of mulch that breaks down over time and also protects the soil from erosion, compaction, and soil carbon loss. On our farm, we mulch with old hay and add things like goat and rabbit manure once a year."

Grovu puts it plainly: "It's usually more effective to do both – grow crops that improve soil quality and feed the soil with compost or mulch. Doing so means you're not merely maintaining the quality of the soil you use as a gardener; you are building the quality of the soil in the long run."

So, @figmentcottagegardens' post is right: you can start improving your soil this season. But, go in knowing it’s the beginning of a longer journey, not a one-season fix.

Nothing says summer like a nice, juicy tomato, but pests can ruin all the tasty fun. Your crop of delicious tomatoes can perish from pest infestations if not treated quickly and efficiently.

You don’t have to let tomato plant pests destroy your harvest. Take control with the help of an organic, non-chemical pest solution: diatomaceous earth. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a physical method of insect control that is cheap and incredibly effective. A little sprinkle of DE when pests pop up will keep your tomatoes from becoming a bug buffet. You can find food-grade diatomaceous earth on Amazon or your local garden center.

Let’s dig in and explore how to use diatomaceous earth to control insects on your tomato plants.

Common Tomato Pests

First, we need to explore what types of pests are most likely to affect your tomato harvest. Common tomato plant pests include: aphids, cutworms, hornworms, flea beetles, and root-knot nematodes. These pests can wreak havoc on your tomato plants and it is best practice to inspect your plants every day so you can jump on any infestations that may pop up.

Grab a cup of coffee in the morning and go check on your plants as you get your day started! Keeping on top of pest problems is important to the survival of your plants.

In addition to daily monitoring, a sprinkle of diatomaceous earth around the base of your plants can help keep pest problems from cropping up. Pests like root-knot nematodes and cutworms are at the soil level and can be stopped before they even get started.

What is Diatomaceous Earth?

Diatomaceous earth, or DE, is a powder made from fossilized microscopic sea creatures called diatoms. DE is a physical pest control method. All the tiny fossils in the powder are jagged and scratch the bodies of insects as they crawl over it. This causes the insects to dry out and die. It works on common tomato pests, slugs, snails, and any other insect with an exoskeleton. It is a very effective method of pest control, but it needs to be used wisely.

DE doesn’t discriminate between pests and beneficial insects. You don’t want to hurt bees, butterflies, moths, and other beneficial pollinators so you should use DE sparingly. As a general rule, don’t use DE on the leaves or upper stems of plants when they are in bloom. If bees and flies come into contact with it while they are pollinating your plants, they will die.

It is important that you purchase “food-grade” DE so that it is safe to use on plants you are going to eat.

How to Use DE

Before you use diatomaceous earth in your garden, you do need to take some safety precautions. DE is not toxic to humans or pets, but the tiny fossils that scratch up bug bodies can also irritate our eyes, noses, and lungs. It is important to use a mask, goggles, and gloves when handling DE so you don’t develop any irritation.

Sprinkle DE around the base of your tomato plants to prevent insects from crawling along the ground and up tomato stems. Nematodes and cutworms won’t stand a chance.

If you have aphids or flea beetles, use a puffer to delicately coat leaves that have an active infestation. Again, don’t use DE when your tomato plants are in bloom or you risk killing your pollinators. Reapply after rain.

Now, that you have your tomato pests under control, you can put the DE away until you need it again. It is a remarkably effective pest solution and easy on the wallet. Sit back and enjoy those wonderful tomatoes!

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No garden bed, no problem. A standard 5-gallon bucket and the right setup is enough to grow productive tomatoes through the full season—on a patio, a balcony, or anywhere with a few hours of sun.

Container tomatoes have a reputation for being a compromise—something people do when they don’t have a real garden, and settle for accordingly. That reputation is mostly undeserved. A 5-gallon bucket is tight, but the right variety in the right mix, watered consistently, can produce well through a full season. The mistakes that actually sink a container tomato aren’t really about the bucket at all.

The approach to growing tomatoes in a bucket follows the same logic as in-ground growing, with a few adjustments that matter more in a confined space. Variety selection, mix quality, watering frequency, and feeding all work a bit differently here. Here’s how to set it up right.

Pick the Right Variety

Variety selection is where most container tomato attempts go wrong before they even start. A full-size indeterminate variety—the kind that keeps growing and producing until frost—will technically survive in a 5-gallon bucket, but it’ll spend the whole season root-bound and stressed, and the harvest will reflect it. Compact determinate varieties and those specifically bred for containers are a much better match for the space. Look for terms like "dwarf," "patio," "bush," or "compact" on the label. 'Tumbling Tom,' 'Bush Early Girl,' 'Patio,' 'Tiny Tim,' and 'Celebrity' are all reliable performers in buckets. Anything labeled as a ‘dwarf’ indeterminate—varieties that produce continuously but stay small—are another solid option.

Cherry and grape types tend to do better in buckets than larger fruiting varieties—they set fruit faster, don’t stress the plant as much, and bounce back from drying out quicker than a beefsteak tomato would. A big slicing tomato is doable, but expect fewer of them and plan to stay on top of watering more carefully.

Prepare the Bucket

Five gallons (about 19 liters) is the practical minimum for a tomato plant—don’t go smaller. If the bucket doesn’t already have drainage holes, drill four to six in the bottom at about 1/2 inch (12mm) each. Waterlogged roots go fast in a container, and without drainage there’s no recovering from it no matter how well everything else goes. Set the bucket on something that lifts it off the ground so those holes stay clear. It is important to use a food-grade bucket so that harmful chemicals don’t leech into your plants and then the tomatoes you are eating. Don’t just use a regular hardware store bucket. You can find white food-grade buckets from Lowe’s.

Dark buckets get hot in direct sun and that heat transfers straight to the roots, which can stress the plant badly by midsummer. A light-colored bucket stays cooler. If the bucket is dark, slip it inside a slightly larger container or wrap it to buffer the heat a bit—especially on a concrete patio that bakes in the afternoon. A basic pot saucer like this one from Amazon underneath catches drainage and makes the whole thing easier to move around.

Get the Mix Right

Garden soil doesn’t work in containers—it compacts down, drains badly, and turns into something that resembles concrete in a bucket after a few weeks. Use a proper potting mix, ideally one made for vegetables or containers. Fill it to about 2 inches (5cm) from the top. If the mix doesn’t already have slow-release fertilizer in it, work a handful of granules into the top layer at planting time.

Mixing in perlite at around 20 to 25% by volume helps drainage and keeps the mix from compacting with repeated watering. A bag of premium potting mix, like this one from Coast of Maine Organic Products on Amazon, typically fills a bucket. Don’t reuse last season’s mix—it’s compacted, depleted, and a potential disease vector for the new plant.

Plant and Support

Plant tomatoes deep—strip the lower leaves and bury the stem up to the lowest remaining set. Roots form all along the buried stem, which means a stronger plant with better water access from the start. Water in well after planting, and get the support structure in at the same time rather than waiting. Pushing a stake into an established root ball later on can do more damage than it’s worth.

A bamboo stake and some soft ties handles most compact varieties just fine. Bamboo stakes and Velcro plant ties can be found at Amazon. For anything bigger, a cage with a narrow base that fits inside the bucket rim works better than one that wraps around the outside. Guide the plant into it as it grows—don’t leave it to sort itself out.

Water and Feed Consistently

Watering is the thing that takes the most attention with a bucket setup. A 5-gallon container in full sun can get dry enough to stress a plant within a day. Check it daily—finger two inches (5cm) into the mix, dry means water. Water until it runs from the drainage holes, not just until the surface looks damp. Blossom end rot and cracking come from irregular watering, not from the container itself. Wet, dry, wet, dry is what causes both.

Nutrients wash out of a container with every watering, so feeding matters more here than in the ground. A liquid tomato fertilizer every two weeks or so once the plant is flowering keeps things going. A good fertilizer like this Miracle-Gro from Amazon is all it needs. Back off on nitrogen a bit once fruit is setting—too much at that stage pushes leaves over tomatoes.

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You say to-may-toe, I say to-mah-toe – but can we at least agree that there's one April date that's long been lauded the Goldilocks zone for starting tomato seeds?

Oh yes, if you’ve ever hovered over a packet of tomato seeds wondering 'is it too soon?' or 'have I already missed my chance?', you’re not alone. Tomatoes might be one of the most rewarding crops to grow, but they’re also one of the easiest to mistime.

Start too early and you risk cold, sluggish growth. Leave it too late and you could miss out on weeks of ripe, homegrown fruit. So, where's the sweet spot? How do we make sure we do our tomatoes (one of Zach Galifianakis's favorite crops to grow) look and taste their absolute best?

By circling one specific date in our calendars, of course!

The Goldilocks Zone for Planting Tomato Seeds

Look, April 25th might be the perfect date for Miss Congeniality fans, but April 15th (for much of the US, at least) represents a kind of Goldilocks zone – a moment when conditions are starting to align in just the right way for tomato seedlings to thrive.

Of course, every garden is different – and USDA Planting Zones must be considered –but there’s good reason mid-April comes up again and again. In fact, according to the Old Farmer's Almanac, tomatoes should only be planted once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has had a chance to warm.

For many regions, those two factors begin to converge right around this time, making it a reliable guidepost for getting started.

Tomatoes, if you hadn't guessed from their prominence in Mediterranean dishes, are true sun-lovers. Unlike cool-season crops, they simply won’t thrive in cold soil or chilly nights.

In fact, for seeds to germinate well and seedlings to grow strongly, soil temperatures need to be consistently above 55–60°F (13–16°C), while nighttime temperatures should stay above 50°F (10°C).

Plant too early, and seeds can sit in cold, damp soil, which leads to poor germination or weak, leggy plants. Wait until mid-April, and in many parts of the country, the soil has absorbed enough warmth from longer, brighter days to support steady, healthy growth.

Enter stage left, then, April 15th.

For most, April 15th is just after the average last frost date in many parts of the US, but still early enough to give plants a long, productive season. It’s that “just right” moment – where risk is lower, but opportunity is still high.

Another reason this timing works so well is light, as daylight hours will have increased significantly by April 15th compared to early spring, thus giving young plants more energy to grow sturdy stems and healthy leaves.

Still, while April 15th is a helpful benchmark, it’s not a one-size-fits-all rule. Gardeners in warmer southern zones may find their own “Goldilocks moment” arrives slightly earlier, while those in cooler northern regions might use this date as a cue to begin hardening off seedlings rather than planting out straight away.

Shop Indoor Seed Sowing Essentials:

If you want to take full advantage of this glorious April 15th sweet spot, a little preparation goes a long way – particularly when it involves gradually hardening off seedlings started indoors to avoid shock. (You could also warm the soil in advance with cloches or mulch if needed).

The key is to treat it as a guide, not a deadline. Because, while April 15th comes remarkably close for many growers across the US, no single date will ever be perfect for every garden; that's why you should keep an eye on your local forecast, check soil temperatures if you can, and wait until nights are reliably mild before planting outdoors.

We guess what we're saying is this: try to think of this Goldilocks date as your cue for planting tomatoes not too early, not too late, but just right. Because, once you get it right, you’ll set the stage for a summer filled with strong plants, abundant harvests, and that unbeatable taste of homegrown tomatoes picked straight from the vine.

Now, if you'll excuse us, we suddenly find ourselves with a hankering for tomato salad...

Potatoes are a staple in many diets and a versatile ingredient in any kitchen. If you go through a lot of potatoes at home, consider growing them in your garden. They’re easier to grow than you think and reward you with an abundant harvest of potatoes you can store and use for months.

Growing potatoes isn’t particularly difficult. However, there are some key considerations to keep in mind, including how, when, and how much you water them. Watering potatoes correctly is just as important as getting the soil and feeding right.

Here’s what you need to know to make sure your spuds are happy, healthy, and well-hydrated to ensure you get a big harvest.

Why Watering Potatoes Right Is Key

Potatoes aren’t hard to grow, but things can definitely go wrong if you don’t get the conditions right. One of the most important factors for a good potato harvest is moisture. Knowing how often to water potatoes and how moist the soil should be will help you grow a healthy, abundant crop.

Inconsistent water and moisture can lead to poor development of the tubers, poor nutrient uptake, and uneven growth. You might see some specific issues with poor watering, like cracked or misshapen potatoes and tubers with holes in them. Ultimately, inconsistent water can limit your yield of edible potatoes.

How Much Water Do Potatoes Need?

To grow healthy and productive potato plants, aim for 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of water per week. This includes both rainwater and any types of irrigation you use. The amount can vary depending on your soil type, the current weather, and the growth stage of the potato plants.

You’re looking for the soil around potato plants to remain consistently moist, but there is a balance to be struck. Consistent moisture is essential for good growth, but too much water can lead to soft rot in potatoes.

An easy way to test soil moisture is to feel the soil with your fingers to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm). Once this top layer of soil has dried, the potatoes could use a drink. If you’re still unsure whether your soil is either too dry or too wet, invest in a moisture meter, like this one from Amazon.

How Often to Water Potatoes

Figuring out how often to water potatoes as plants grow and develop through different stages is one of the keys to a successful harvest. Here’s what you need to know about how and when to water potatoes throughout the different parts of their growth cycle:

• Early Growth - Water the soil lightly just after planting seed potatoes and be very careful not to overwater. Keep the soil evenly moist with about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. Water gently to protect seedlings and keep soil in place.
• Peak Foliage Growth - Once the plants get bigger and are producing a lot of foliage, increase watering to a few times per week and up to 2 inches (5 cm) of water, depending on soil and weather conditions. Water potatoes more often in hot and dry weather. Adding mulch can also help retain moisture in the soil.
• Flowering - As your plants begin to flower, they are also developing tubers. This is a critical period during which the soil must stay consistently moist to avoid stressed, malformed, and small tubers. Water a few times a week, giving potatoes up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) of water per week, depending on the weather.
• Late Growth - During the latter part of the growing season, close to harvest time as the leaves begin to turn yellow, reduce watering gradually until you’re not watering at all unless the soil is totally dry. This gradual decrease helps toughen potato skins and prevents rot.

How to Water Potato Plants

Consistency is the name of the game when it comes to watering potatoes properly. You’ll get the best potatoes if you can keep the soil consistently moist without allowing it to become soggy.

Create hills of soil around your potato plants or along the row to protect the tubers and to help conserve moisture. Adding mulch on top of the soil will also prevent a lot of moisture loss from evaporation. Water more if weather conditions are especially hot and dry.

How you water potatoes also matters. Watering deeply once or twice a week is better than light daily watering. Setting up a simple drip irrigation kit, like this one from Home Depot that our editors love, or using a soaker hose at the base of plants is the most effective way of getting moisture into the soil. Avoid overhead watering and getting leaves wet, which encourages fungal infections and other common potato diseases.

Signs You’re Watering Potatoes Wrong

Watering potato plants requires balance, so it’s not hard to go too far in one direction or the other. Some signs you’re overwatering potatoes include yellowing leaves, fungal disease, wilting even with moist soil, and visible rot when you dig down to check on tubers.

Signs of underwatering include dry soil, stunted plant growth, and potatoes that are small, underdeveloped, or cracked. Tubers tend to crack if you water them after a period of dry conditions, which is one reason consistency is so important.

Growing your own potatoes can be rewarding, but to get the most out of your plants you have to be consistent with water. Time watering according to the different plant stages and weather, check on the soil, and make adjustments as needed for the best results and the biggest harvest.

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One potato, two potato, three potato, four. Yes, this a children’s game, but it might also be the chant of potato diseases and pests that are ready, willing, and able to chow down your crop of spuds.

Do pests eat potatoes? Yes, pests like Colorado potato beetles, slugs, and wireworms eat the tubers, while lots of other pests attack the foliage of potato plants. Then there are the potato diseases and blights that can decimate your harvest.

And they told you growing potatoes was easy? Actually, it can be. All of these threats to your potato patch can be handled with a little preventive action on your part. I’ll walk you through the most common potato diseases and pests that affect plants and teach you how to avoid problems so you still get a big, healthy harvest.

Common Potato Pests

You love baked potatoes. Your family loves homemade French fries. But we can add a long list of pests that love potatoes to that list, too. Let’s look at the most common potato pests, how to recognize them, and what to do if they show up in your garden.

1. Colorado Potato Beetles

With a name like “potato beetle,” you might think this pest is laser focussed on potato plants, but you would be wrong. Adult Colorado potato beetles overwinter in the soil, then in spring, they emerge and look for a host plant.

Potatoes are their favorites, but any plant in the potato family will do, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, tobacco, and some types of weeds. The adult is a small beetle with an oval, yellow body and black stripes on its wing covers. Larvae are bright pink with black heads.

Both adults and larvae feed on the potato leaves, but the worst damage is caused by third and fourth instar larvae. These large larvae can take all leaves off a potato plant within 48 hours. This is a lethal situation for flowering potatoes, since even a 6% defoliation can kill the plant.

Use an insecticidal spray, like this one from Bonide that's specifically formulated to beat Colorado potato beetles, to combat these common potato pests.

2. Potato Leafhoppers

Potato leafhoppers are not an issue while they are young. Adults are yellow-green and very tiny, while nymphs are even smaller and don't have any wings. Leafhoppers become a problem when reproduction begins and then is continuous. These pests produce three to four generations a season.

Potato leafhoppers have leaf-sucking mouth parts. They suck juices from the potato plant causing the veins to turn pale and the leaves to curl. After a while, the leaf tips turn yellow and suffer a condition known as “hopperburn,” stunting the plant and limiting the yield.

Insecticides work well for these pests, too. Treat the crop the first time you find a scattering of nymphs. Spray plants with a multipurpose insecticidal soap spray, like this one from Bonide. Keep a close eye out for leafhoppers from mid to late May.

3. Aphids

It’s a rare gardener who isn’t familiar with aphids. These common vegetable garden pests are small and green or black and found in groups on the underside of leaves. The adults turn into fiends in spring looking for an acceptable plant, like a potato plant, to eat.

When they find one, they move right in and make themselves at home, losing their wings, sucking juices out of the plant, and giving birth to another generation that quickly gives birth to another.

No plant does well when their plant juices are being extracted. Potato plants wilt and crops are destroyed. Look for light green spots on the upper leaves and curling of the leaf margins. At this point, tuber yields can be reduced as much as 60%.

The sustainable integrated pest management solution: bring in natural enemies of aphids. My favorite is the ladybug, but other less “cute” bugs work too, like lacewing larvae, hoverfly larvae, and parasitic wasps. Don’t use pesticides for other pests, however, because these predators are very sensitive to insecticides.

You can actually buy ladybugs to attack aphids on Amazon.

4. Wireworms

Wireworms are click beetle larvae and they look like little pieces of wire. They're slender, yellow-brown, and around 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. They are hungry around the time of potato seeding and will feel on the seed pieces soon after planting. Their population is larger if your garden was formerly sod or laid fallow the prior year.

Test for wireworms by burying a handful of untreated wheat, corn, or potatoes in the soil about a month before planting. Flag the location and then 10 days later, dig up the bait and take a look.

If more than one wireworm is found on the bait, take action. If you don’t act, the wireworms will feed on seed potatoes, seedlings, and even your tubers. One way to combat the wireworms is to trap them and kill them.

Take pieces of raw potato, then “plant” them in the soil. Check the traps every week and pick off and kill any wireworms on them.

Common Potato Diseases

That’s not all, folks! Even when you do what you need to keep insect pests at bay, your potato plants can fall victim to some common potato diseases. To spot these, you don’t have to dig up the tubers. They often show up on the foliage first. Here are the four most common potato diseases to watch for.

1. Late Blight

Late blight of potatoes is one of the most critical diseases to address. It is caused by a fungus that can infect foliage, stems, and tubers. It can also spread all over the garden in the wind. Look for irregular dark spots that get larger over time.

On the upper side of a leaf, the dark area is surrounded by a green halo and on the underside, you might see white mold. When the tuber is infected, you’ll see dark brown or purple spots.

The best way to control blight on potatoes is an integrated approach. Start off with a potato cultivar that has some blight resistance, like these 'German Butterball' tubers from Burpee. It's also vital to keep sources of the fungus, including other infected crops, far from your potato patch.

Disease is likely when you experience two consecutive days with a temperature of at least 50°F (10°C) and six or more hours of 90% relative humidity. This means your blight risk is high. Use a fungicide, like this one from Bonide, to prevent and treat problems if you experience weather that follows this pattern.

2. Early Blight

Early blight of potatoes, also called alternaria, is a soil-borne fungal pathogen that affects a variety of crops. Look for concentric rings of lesions on the leaves that appear a few weeks after foliage emerges. The disease starts as very small spots on lower leaves which then coalesce into larger marks.

Alternaria causes lesions on the leaves which often have a target spot appearance of concentric rings. Small dark dots appear a few weeks after emergence on the lower leaves, then grow and kill the leaf tissue.

You can help prevent this disease by removing debris and weeds from your garden. Crop rotation can also help. Don’t let your plants become stressed, since stress will increase the impact. If the problem spreads fast or impacts many of your plants, treat with a fungicide like the one above.

3. Common Scab

Three to six weeks after potato tubers start growing, the surrounding soil must be moist. If those tubers are growing in dry soil during this stage, they can get infected with common potato scab, which is an unsightly blemish disease. Lesions start small and coalesce into bigger irregular areas and turn colorless to dark brown.

Scab often results from lack of irrigation, a lack of light, poor-draining soils, or dry weather. If the cause is simple, so is the solution. Water potato plants one or two times a week for the first month after tuber initiation. It also helps to use fine-textured and well-draining soil, plant clean seed potatoes, and use crop rotation.

4. Blackleg & Soft Rot

Blackleg is a major potato disease that is caused by several of the same bacterias that cause soft rot in potato tubers.

The foliage is first attacked by blackleg and then you may see rolled upper leaves, blackened stems at ground level, and stunted pale-green or yellow foliage. It can also cause a slimy green-brown rot and the collapse of potato stems. Blackleg symptoms vary according to the prevailing weather conditions.

In potato tubers, the rot starts from infected wounds, lenticels, and stolon ends. Over time, you will also see soft, wet, cream-colored tissue with a sharp demarcation between diseased areas and healthy areas. Over time it develops a foul smell.

There is no proven chemical treatment for blackleg in potatoes. The best bet is to use good cultural practices, like using certified disease-free seed potatoes, not overwatering your plants, and disposing of any infected plants the minute you discover them.

Potatoes are heavy feeders that respond dramatically to the right fertilizer at the right time. Get the timing or the nutrient balance wrong and the harvest shows it—either poor tuber development underground or too much leafy growth above.

Most vegetables will produce something reasonable even with minimal feeding. Potatoes aren’t quite like that. They’re crop plants selected for heavy production, and heavy production needs actual nutritional support at specific points in the growing cycle

Soil prep, planting depth, hilling, harvest timing — all of it intersects with fertilizer in ways that matter. The full picture of growing potatoes covers all of that, but the fertilizer program itself breaks into three phases, each with a different goal and a different formula. Knowing what the plant needs at each stage, and why the timing is what it is, makes the whole thing easier to manage when conditions in the garden don’t go exactly to plan.

Best Fertilizer for Potatoes

Potatoes are nutritionally demanding in a pretty specific way. Nitrogen fuels the early leafy growth that drives photosynthesis, but if you give too much nitrogen too late and the plant just keeps making foliage when it should be switching focus to what’s happening underground. Phosphorus is what gets tuber development started — it’s the nutrient most tied to good tuber set early on. Potassium is the big one for yield and quality: it drives sugar movement into the developing tubers, affects final size, and improves both storage quality and disease resistance. A potato growing fertilizer that gets this balance right at each growth stage is what separates a good harvest from an average one.

Potatoes want slightly acidic soil, somewhere in the 5.0 to 6.0 range. Above that, common scab — the fungal problem that puts rough, corky patches on tuber skin — becomes a real issue. If the soil runs alkaline, working sulfur in before planting brings the pH down and takes most of the scab pressure with it. A soil test before planting is worth the time it takes — guessing at what adjustments are needed almost always costs more in the end.

Pre-Planting: Getting the Foundation Right

The single most important fertilizer application is the one that goes in before the seed potatoes do. First, you need to know what your soil is lacking. A comprehensive soil test, like this one from Amazon, will let you know exactly what is going on under the surface.

If your soil isn't severely lacking a specific nutrient, work a 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 granular fertilizer into the top 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20cm) of soil at 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet (0.9 to 1.4kg per 9 square meters). This covers nitrogen for early growth, phosphorus for tuber initiation, and potassium for the full season — all in one shot before planting. This 10-10-10 organic fertilizer from Espoma is available on Amazon.

If the soil is short on phosphorus, bone meal is worth adding at this stage — it releases slowly and is right there when the young tubers need it most. Working a handful directly into the planting trench is more efficient than broadcasting it. You can find bone meal applications at Amazon or your local garden center.

At Planting and Early Growth

When the seed potatoes go into the trench, a small amount of fertilizer placed just below or beside each piece — not touching the cut surface — gives the emerging roots something to find right away. A starter or low-nitrogen, higher-phosphorus formula like a 5-10-5 works well at about half a tablespoon (7ml) per hole. Keep it away from direct contact with the seed piece; concentrated fertilizer against a cut surface can burn the emerging sprout before it gets going.

Once plants are up and hitting 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20cm) — usually three to four weeks in — the first side-dress goes in. This is the last high-nitrogen feeding of the season. A 10-10-10 granular at 1 to 1.5 pounds per 100 square feet (0.45 to 0.7kg per 9 square meters) worked alongside the row, or a liquid balanced feed applied during watering, carries the plant through that rapid vegetative growth phase before things shift underground. Hill the stems up at this point to protect any shallow tubers from light exposure.

Transitioning to Tuber Development

Flowering is the signal that things are shifting underground, and the fertilizer program needs to shift with it. For non-flowering varieties, the canopy closing and vines beginning to sprawl is the same cue. This is when a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula takes over. A fertilizer for potatoes at this stage should have something like a 5-10-10 or 0-10-20 analysis. Pulling back on nitrogen stops the plant from putting more energy into foliage, and the elevated potassium is what actually moves sugars into the tubers as they size up. Apply at the same rate as the side-dress and water it in well.

A dedicated potato or root vegetable fertilizer like this one from Amazon typically has this similar profile built in. Timing matters as much as the formula — applying a high-potassium feed before flowering wastes the application, and applying it after tubers have already sized up reduces its effectiveness. Flowering is the reliable visual cue to watch for.

Keep nitrogen in check once tubers start forming, focus on potassium to bulk up your spuds, and maintain consistent soil moisture—these three small adjustments make a big difference in both yield and quality.

Shop Potato Fertilizer Essentials

Forget worrying about whether it's too early to start sowing veggies in your garden yet – all these delicious vegetables are safe to sow outdoors in April, even if that’s before your last frost date. These vegetable seeds germinate at lower temperatures so you can go ahead and get growing for an early harvest that starts in late spring and lasts for months to come.

Sowing seed directly in the soil where the plants are to grow is the easiest way to raise veggies, skipping all the faff of starting them off indoors and having to harden off seedlings then transplant outdoors. Simply pop the seeds into the soil, keep watered and thin out the seedlings in a few weeks – and don’t let your thinnings go to waste because they taste great in a salad.

The trick to successful direct-sow vegetables in spring is to start seeds at a point when the soil is warm enough for them to germinate, so they don’t sit in cold, wet soil and rot. Equip yourself with a soil thermometer and there’s no guesswork involved. A basic analog design such as this from Amazon does the job just fine and gives you change from $10. Spend a little more and you can get a digital thermometer that also measures soil moisture and pH levels and sunlight intensity, such as this meter from Amazon. Whatever type you buy, just make sure the probe is at least 4 inches long so you can measure the temperature of the underlying soil rather than the surface.

I always chance my luck and make a first sowing as early as possible, because most seeds can germinate at a much lower temperature than the optimum range usually stated. They may take a few days longer to sprout and, if there’s no sign of life, I simply push a few more seeds into the soil once it’s warmed up another few degrees.

All these vegetable crops are frost-tolerant or frost-hardy, which means they’ll cope with a light frost. The younger the seedlings, the more tender and vulnerable they are, however. So, if a late frost is forecast, play it safe by throwing inexpensive horticultural fleece, such as this frost cloth from Amazon, over any still-young plants.

If you live in a colder zone, a floating row cover such as this from Burpee can be left in place during the daytime, too, as it allows sunlight and rainwater through. Another leave-in-place option for the first few weeks that lets you sow earlier in a colder zone is a TunLcover, which is a protective cover with wire hoops that acts like a temporary coldframe, also available from Burpee. These are all useful to warm soil for faster germination, too.

Take your pick of these super-tasty vegetable seeds to sow in April.

1. Carrots

Get carrots sown in April as seeds will start germinating at 40°F, though they’ll sprout more quickly once soil temperatures reach 55°F. Start them where they are to grow up to 2–4 weeks before your last frost date.

‘Danvers 126’ is a reliable variety that grows long, tasty roots in most soil types and is available from Eden Brothers. ‘Tendersweet’ is similarly straightforward to grow and, being a little sweeter, is particularly delicious raw, and seeds are also available from Eden Brothers.

If you’re short on space then ‘Tonda di Parigi’ is a round carrot variety, which means you can grow it in a container; it’s available from Botanical Interests.

2. Kale

Kale is such a versatile vegetable and only takes two months to grow from seed to harvest. Very frost-hardy, you can sow kale as soon as you can work your soil up to 3 weeks before your last frost date. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 60–85°F but you’ll still see some seed sprouting at 40°F.

Lacinato or dinosaur kale is considered the sweetest and most tender, so best for salads and to sauté or stir-fry, or add to soups and stews for the last few minutes of cooking. Seeds are available from Eden Brothers and Burpee. ‘Dazzling Blue’ is a particularly cold-tolerant lacinato cultivar that has an attractive purple midrib, available from Botanical Interests.

Curly kale is better for making chips (simply toss leaves with oil and salt and roast for 10 minutes) and is also good for adding to soups and stews. ‘Kaleidoscope’ and ‘Dwarf Blue’ are compact curly varieties growing to 18 inches high and well-suited to growing in a container, and both are available from Burpee. If you’re growing in the ground, ‘Redbor’ is particularly hardy and ornamental, growing fabulously ruffled purple leaves to 20 inches tall; seeds are available from Botanical Interests. ‘Prizm’ is another excellent variety with almost stemless stalks, with seeds from Burpee.

3. Beetroot

If you haven’t eaten a beet since the woody veggies of your childhood, it’s high time you tried growing a newer beetroot variety. Plenty have been bred for better flavor, smoother texture and a higher sugar content, with a range of flavors on offer.

‘Merlin’ is the modern variety to try for a much-improved flavor in a traditionally-toned beet, and is available from Burpee. Or why not try a yellow beetroot variety such ‘Touchstone Gold’ from Botanical Interests, or striking stripy roots like ‘Choggia’ from Eden Brothers?

Sow these seeds up to 3–4 weeks before your frost date. They’ll start germinating at 40°F, though you’ll get much better germination above 50°F.

4. Peas

Peas are a little less cold-hardy than the other veggies recommended, but they’re still worth sowing as soon as your soil is workable, up to 4–6 weeks before your last frost date, as they germinate at 50°F. Older plants will tolerate light frosts, but you’ll need to fleece seedlings if you get a late frost. For this reason, I like to grow self-supporting peas as an early crop, simply because their low, bushy shape makes it easy to throw a cozy fleece over.

All types of peas are pretty cold-tolerant, so there are plenty of varieties to choose from. If this is your first time growing peas, you can’t go wrong with ‘Easy Peasy’, from Burpee. This self-supporting variety grows to 2½ feet high with abundant, delicious peas. The super-curly tendrils are cute, too! ‘Sugar Daddy’ is a self-supporting snap pea, available from Eden Brothers. For sugar peas, ‘Snowbird’ is a good choice, with stems only reaching 18 inches high yet producing plenty of 3-inch pods in as little as two months, available from Burpee.

5. Spinach

Another leafy green that loves an April start, spinach is classed as a superfood as it’s so nutrient-dense. Direct sow up to 5 weeks before your last frost date, as soon as soil temperatures reach 40–45°F. Spinach germinates well at lower temperatures – too much heat actually slows germination! – and crops in around 40 days.

‘Prosper’ has been bred to have strong resistance to downy mildew, which can be a problem if we have a wet spring, so is an excellent choice for an April sowing. ‘Space’ is also extremely mildew-resistant and a vigorous, super-tasty choice. Burpee stocks both varieties.

6. Swiss Chard

Tasting similar to spinach but with beautifully bright stems and veining, swiss chard is an ornamental as well as tasty addition to any veggie patch. Indeed, it’s so pretty, many people squeeze this crop into a flower border. It can sprout at temperatures of 40–45°F though germination speeds once soil hits 55°F. Growing quickly, baby greens can be ready for picking in as little as 20 days, with mature leaves in 60 days. Sow up to 4 weeks before your last frost date.

For a mix of stem colors, try swiss chard ‘Five Color’, available from Botanical Interests, or ‘Rainbow of Lights’ from Eden Brothers. If you want the brightest color-pop though, ‘Pink Lipstick’ has deep green leaves that really show off the magenta stems and veining; seed is available from Eden Brothers.

7. Leek ‘Dawn Giant’

Most leeks take forever to grow and you need to start seed indoors then transplant outside, so it’s a faff. But this new variety can be sown directly outside in April, as soon as the soil can be worked and has reached 45°F, though seed will germinate best at temperatures of 65°F so wait till the end of the month. It grows incredibly quickly so you’ll be enjoying giant 15-inch-high leeks by midsummer. To get longer white shanks, mound soil around the bases of maturing leeks.

Seeds are available from Burpee.

8. Radishes

Early spring is an ideal time to sow salad radishes as they tend to bolt in hotter weather. You can start them up to 4 weeks before your last frost date as they’ll start germinating at 40°F even though their optimum range is 55–75°F. As they’re so quick-growing, radishes are a great crop for a container, so you can always grow a pot in the shelter of a warming house wall if you live in a colder zone.

‘Fabuloso’ is a super-speedy grower, taking as little as four weeks to grow into crunchy red 1-inch globes; seed is available from Burpee. ‘Fire and Ice’ is another good spring radish, also available from Burpee with a sweeter, milder flavor. For something a little different, ‘Purple Plum’, available from Eden Brothers, is a fun purple color as its name suggests.

9. Kohlrabi

Easy to grow and spectacular in a veggie bed or pot, kohlrabi has a mild, sweet flavor and can be eaten raw in salads and slaws or roasted, steamed or mashed. Though seeds germinate best at 65–70°F, they start sprouting at 40°F. They’re a little less frost tolerant than our other veggies though, so sow up to 2 weeks before your last frost date.

‘Vienna’ is super-easy to raise and produces delicious veggies 4 inches in diameter, and is available in both white and purple varieties from Eden Brothers.

10. Bunching Onions

Scallions or salad onions start germinating at 45°F, though they’re far quicker above 68°F, but they grow so quickly it’s worth starting them a couple of weeks before your last frost date. ‘White Lisbon’ is a speedy heirloom variety that performs particularly well in early spring, and is available from Botanical Interests and Eden Brothers. For more color, try ‘Red Baron’ from Eden Brothers which boasts spring onions with vibrant purple bases.