Composting is a fantastic way to recycle kitchen scraps as life-saving nutrients that can nourish and sustain your garden beds and containers. Making this compost yourself can be simple, easy, and incredibly inexpensive, if you know what you're doing. You don’t necessarily need a fancy motorized tumbler or even a lot of space to make it happen. A quick and budget-friendly solution is to make your own in-ground worm composting tower, a vertical composting system that works right where your plants need it most.

Also known as a worm tower, this composting system is reassuringly straightforward for the eco-conscious gardener on a budget. Because it involves repurposing basic household items and unwanted materials, the costs are negligible – and the only real outlay is for the worms themselves. It’s a sustainable cycle that turns your morning coffee grounds and vegetable peels into a powerhouse of nutrients you can pay forward into your backyard, keeping waste out of landfills and money in your pocket.

Getting started now is the perfect way to prep for the upcoming season. While the rest of the garden is just starting to wake up, your underground crew of red wigglers can be hard at work. By the time you’re ready to tuck your spring seedlings into the earth, your tower will have already begun enriching some black gold that you can use to give your young plants a head start. Here’s how to make and maintain a budget-friendly, garden-friendly worm composting bin.

Why Try Worm Composting?

Worm composting (aka vermicomposting) harnesses the natural digestive power of worms as they break down organic material. Any sort of composting is essentially a win for sustainably minded gardeners, but a vermicomposting bin offers a fast-track to fertility. Because the worms do the heavy lifting of shredding and digesting, you can often see results in as little as 8 weeks, much faster than a cold-compost pile.

A worm tower is a great space-saver. This worm compost bin project uses the trench method, so doesn’t take up loads of precious space. It is well-suited for urban gardeners with more kitchen scraps than yard waste. Since the worms live and eat underground, these systems are naturally insulated and, when managed correctly, produce zero foul odors.

The real magic, however, lies in the worm castings. This is a polite term for worm poop. These castings are a lot more nutrient-dense than standard compost, packed with beneficial microbes and minerals that are immediately bioavailable to plants. And this particular project is incredibly easy on your pockets.

Your only outlay for this project will be the composting worms. You need to invest in composting-specific worms like red wigglers, rather than common earthworms. You should be able to find these online for $20-25. You can buy NaturesGoodGuys Red Wigglers from Amazon in tubs of 300 worms, ready and wiggling to do your composting bidding!

How to Make a Worm Tower

The most common DIY route for your worm bin composter involves a 5-gallon plastic bucket or a length of 4-to-6-inch (10-15 cm) wide PVC pipe. To prep your tower, drill a series of holes (approximately half an inch wide) around the sides of the lower two-thirds of the container. If you are using a bucket, drill several holes in the bottom as well, to allow the worms to move freely between the tower and your garden soil.

A pipe option is especially handy because it allows for deep insertion into the soil. The holes act a bit like worm doors. They allow the worms to exit the tower, deposit their nutrient-rich castings directly into the surrounding garden soil, and return to the tower to eat. This creates a radius of high soil fertility around the tower, and all without you having to move a single shovel of dirt.

The surrounding earth acts as a natural insulator, keeping your worms cool in the summer and warm in the winter. If you were to leave a plastic bucket sitting on bricks in the sun, by comparison, you would risk cooking your worm colony. This in-ground DIY method is far better for your worms (and for spring soil fertility).

Where to Place Your Worm Tower

The right worm composter location is everything when it comes to keeping worms happy. Choose a spot that is primarily shady. The tower should also be near established roots. Ideally, place your tower in a perennial bed, or near heavy feeders like tomatoes or squash. Worms will migrate out of the holes to aerate the soil and distribute nutrients directly to the roots of favorite plants. Just ensure it isn't in a high-traffic area where you might trip over the lid while weeding.

Dig a hole deep enough so the tower sits firmly in the earth with the top 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) and the lid above the soil line. This prevents rainwater flooding the unit while keeping the entry point accessible for you.

Adding Food and Bedding

Once your tower is in the ground, it’s time to make it cozy. Start with a layer of bedding. You don’t need to spend a dime here: shredded paper, corrugated cardboard, or empty egg cartons work perfectly. Soak your compost browns in a bucket of water first, wring them out until they feel like a damp sponge, and toss them in. If you have leftover coconut coir or fallen brown leaves, those make excellent additions.

Add your stars, the red wigglers (Eisenia fetida). Unlike common earthworms, these guys are surface dwellers that love living in the high-density organic matter contained in your worm tower. Add your first handful of kitchen scraps – think apple cores, carrot tops, and used coffee grounds (make sure they are used). A few inches is fine.

The All-Important Lid

Don’t forget to add a lid. This serves several purposes. It keeps the internal environment dark (which worms love), it keeps pests out, it retains moisture inside the tower, and it prevents your tower from pooling in a rainstorm. If you are using a 5-gallon bucket, the easiest lid is the one that came with it. If you are using a PVC pipe, look for a matching PVC cap at a hardware store, though those will cost extra.

For a zero-cost DIY lid, get creative with whatever is in your garage. Maybe try an old terracotta pot saucer turned upside down, a heavy flat stone, or a scrap piece of pressure-treated wood weighted down with a brick. Avoid using thin plastic wrap or flimsy cardboard, as these will degrade quickly.

Maintaining Your Tower

Maintenance is a breeze – it’s all about maintaining food for worms, and keeping things clean. Just add new scraps once the previous batch has been mostly consumed. If the tower starts to smell sour, you may be overfeeding or the contents may be too wet. Simply add more dry shredded paper to balance the moisture. In summer, give the tower a quick spritz with the garden hose if the bedding feels dry.

A good tip is that each time you add more kitchen scraps, it’s good to layer them with some of the bedding material. If you find that there are particular types of scraps not getting composted, it probably means the worms aren’t eating them. Remove these items and avoid adding them in the future.

To harvest compost, either just let the worms do the harvesting for you as they carry nutrients into the garden soil. Alternatively, if you want to use the concentrated compost elsewhere, stop feeding the tower for a couple of weeks. Then, place fresh food at the very top. The worms will migrate upward, allowing you to scoop out the rich, finished castings from the bottom and middle sections to use elsewhere.

Vermicomposting FAQ

Budget Worm Composters

Our worm project is great for a cheap sustainable win, but if you’re not confident with a drill, don’t want to make holes in your spare bucket, or can’t find a spare bit of PVC pipe, these worm composting solutions are reasonably priced and offer great features for different needs:

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

As a former park ranger, I am always looking for ways to reduce my impact on the environment and take better care of our Earth. The USDA estimates that 30-40% of food in the U.S. is wasted which has a massive environmental impact, in addition to the financial impacts of trying to manage all this waste. Food is the largest category of waste that ends up in landfills. In 2010, over 133 billion pounds of food waste was created.

Shopping smarter is a great way to reduce food waste, but if you want to take it a step further, you can create a compost bin at home to utilize any waste and return the nutrients back into the soil. One of the easiest (and most fun!) ways to compost is by using worms. Vermicomposting quickly gets rid of kitchen scraps – or that carrot that you forgot about in the fridge for a little too long.

Vermicomposting requires very little labor compared to traditional composting and it can be done indoors in limited space. I have made my own vermicomposter out of plastic bins, but this Worm Factory vermicomposting kit from Amazon is a much better option and I wish I had tried it instead of my futile DIY setup. It has everything you need to get started on your vermicomposting journey.

Vermicomposting Basics

Vermicomposting is a method of composting that utilizes worms for all the hard work. There is no need to turn a huge bin of steaming compost in your backyard during the hottest days of the summer. Just 1 pound (0.45 kg) of worms can chow through half their weight in food scraps per day. Those little guys and gals compost your kitchen waste into incredibly nutritious worm castings that will give your garden a boost through the whole year.

You can feed just about any food scraps to your worms with a few exceptions. Meat, dairy, garlic, onions, and potatoes should be avoided. Other than those items, the worms will munch through it all! Breads, cereals, vegetables, fruits, tea leaves, coffee grounds, and even crushed egg shells will be devoured and turned into natural fertilizer in no time.

Worm Factory Kit

The Worm Factory vermicomposting kit comes with everything you need to ensure happy, healthy worms.

The sturdy molded plastic structure comes with 4 trays so you can expand your vermicomposting operation as your worm population grows or if you need more room for food waste disposal. Worm bedding materials are also provided so you can get your worms into the composter and working straight away. A mixture of coco coir, newspaper, and pumice stone is the perfect environment for your worm friends.

This kit also comes with a thermometer and cultivator to make monitoring the vermiculture environment and adding food scraps easier. A spigot at the bottom allows you to harvest worm tea which is also beneficial for your plants.

As the worms eat your scraps and work their way to the top of the tower, a super rich compost and worms castings will be left in the lower levels. Adding this natural fertilizer to your houseplants and outdoor gardens will give your plants an amazing boost while keeping food waste out of landfills. Talk about a win-win!

Where to Get Compost Worms

The only thing the composting kit doesn’t include is worms. The best composting worms are called red wigglers (Eisenia fetida). They produce the best compost and most nutrient-dense castings to feed your plants. Red wigglers can be purchased from online retailers like Meme’s Worms. It is important to note that you should not purchase worms from bait shops. They are not composting worms and they are often an invasive species.

This year, try a worm composting kit. It's a great way to take care of your garden, your family, and the Earth.

Home composting is essential for serious gardeners. Affectionately known as "black gold", compost is the nutritious, loamy material you get from letting organic matter decompose. It enriches the soil and provides vital nourishment for the plants you grow.

Vermicomposting is steadily becoming one of the most popular types of composting – and for good reason. There are several routes to learning how to compost at home, but harnessing the power of worms is both fast and effective. Worm composting is also known as vermicomposting, while vermiculture refers to the process of raising worms.

What Is Vermicomposting?

All composting involves allowing organic waste materials, like yard and kitchen waste, to decompose into a rich, soil-like product. You can use compost in garden beds and in containers.

Vermicomposting uses worms to break down organic material. The worms consume most organic materials, transforming them into superior compost.

Standard composting relies solely on microorganisms to break down organic waste. In vermicomposting, both worms and microbes do the job.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Vermicomposting?

The pros of any kind of composting include reusing organic waste and the finished product, which helps you grow better, healthier plants. There are also specific advantages of vermicomposting. If done correctly, it’s a clean setup with no bad odors. Vermicomposting is cost-effective, and you can do it indoors.

One of the main upsides is that the process produces worm castings, an incredibly rich organic fertilizer, which can be harvested and fed to plants. It can also be turned into worm tea that gives a powerful nutrient boost when used while watering plants.

There are not many downsides to composting with worms. There are some startup costs. Additionally, you’ll need to spend some time maintaining the setup, for example, draining and rinsing the liquid tray at the bottom of the worm bin composter every few days.

About Worm Composting Bins

You need four things for successful vermicomposting: worms, worm bedding, organic waste, and a bin or area for composting. You can buy a red worm composting bin, learn how to make a worm bed, or make your own bin.

It's simple and inexpensive to make DIY worm bins:

1. Start with a ten-gallon plastic storage bin with a lid. This size will be good for about one pound of waste per week. Use the opaque type, not the clear bins.
2. Drill 20 to 30 holes in the bottom of the bin.
3. Set the bin on top of wood scraps or bricks. This will allow air to flow through the holes.
4. Place the whole setup on a tray. Liquid waste, called leachate, will drip through the holes.

In-Ground Worm Composting

As an alternative to a worm bed, you can add a worm tower or tube to the soil or use an in-ground worm composter to vermicompost in situ.

This 2-pack in-ground worm composter from Amazon is such a simple way to get started. Simply dig a hole in the ground, add the composter, fill it with worms and scraps, and let them get to work.

Where Do I Get Compost Worms?

Before you begin vermicomposting, you need to get some compost worms. The best worms for composting are of the Eisenia fetida species. Common names for this worm include red worms, red wigglers, and tiger worms.

Other species of worms are also sometimes called red wigglers, so take care when choosing them. Only use E. fetida. Some other types are invasive pests. A quick search online should show you where you can buy red wigglers locally. You can also order them online and have them shipped to you.

How many worms for compost varies, but for a standard bin you’ll need about a pound of worms.

How to Fill and Maintain a Compost Bin and Worms

Once you have your bin set up and worms ready to go, you can fill the bin. Start with a layer of bedding for the worms in the bottom of the bin. This can be shredded newspaper or cardboard, straw, sawdust, dry grass clippings, peat moss, coconut coir, or a mix of materials. Moisten the bedding until it is like a wrung-out sponge.

Add worms and kitchen food waste and cover the bin. The worms will get to work right away. Start with just about an inch (2.5cm) of waste to get the worms started. Too much waste will create heat, which can kill them.

You need to learn what to feed compost worms to fuel them in breaking down waste. Worms will eat almost anything that you would put in a traditional compost bin, with a few exceptions. Use these types of kitchen waste:

• Fruits and vegetables
• Coffee grounds and tea leaves
• Crushed eggshells
• Bread and cereals

Do not use meat, bones, fat, dairy products, and potatoes. You can chop up food scraps into small pieces to speed the process of decomposition.

Once the worms get going, feed them two to three times per week. Keep the bedding moist. If it gets too dry or too wet, the worms may try to get out of the bin. You will also need to move the bin to drain off the water and clean the tray every few days. You can use this liquid to water plants.

How to Use Worm Compost

You should have usable compost within six to eight weeks of setting up your worm bin. It will look like small, black or dark brown clumps that break apart easily when you handle them.

To harvest compost, stop feeding for a week or two and push the compost to one side of the bin. Put fresh bedding on the other side. The worms will move to the new bedding and you can remove the compost.

Use vermicomposting product as you would any compost. Mix it into soil in garden beds to improve its texture and to add nutrients. Add it to container plants to feed them and enrich the soil with nutrients.

Can I Compost With Worms Indoors?

Vermicomposting is ideal for indoor composting. Doing it indoors allows you to control the environment to keep the worms healthy and productive. If you do it right, the worms will remain in the bin and the only odor produced should be earthy and pleasant.

When adding an indoor worm compost bin, it’s important to choose the right spot for it. The worms need a location that is well-ventilated and with temperatures between 55 and 75°F (13 to 24°C). They should be protected from direct light. Basements or garages are usually good options.

Issues with Vermicomposting

Vermicomposting takes some effort to maintain healthy, productive worms and to get a good product. You may run across a few vermiculture problems with easy fixes:

• If you see fruit flies in worm bins, bury fresh food scraps in the worms’ bedding. You can also use fly tape on the underside of the lid.
• Other pests in worm bins can be harmful to the worms, so need to be managed by making the environment less friendly to them or setting traps.
• If vermicompost smells, you may be adding too much waste at one time. Pick out excess waste and give the worms time to work on the rest before adding more. An odor may also result from too much moisture. Keep the bedding as moist as a wrung-out sponge, no more. If necessary, add dry bedding.
• Compost worms dying may be due to a few issues such as incorrect moisture or temperature levels, lack of air circulation, and too little food. Check and reset your bin and keep going.
• Vermicompost worms escaping is common for new worms that are acclimatizing, but could also be due to poor conditions or lack of food. If those issues are addressed, then you can escape-proof the bin by covering air holes with nylon stockings.
• Worm beds may overheat in hot weather, so it's important to know how to keep worms cool in summer. Locating the bed in a shady spot is a good starting point.
• When the weather gets too cold, the worms will become sluggish and may stop feeding. Worm composting in winter is focused on helping the worms to survive, rather than expecting them to produce compost at the same rate.

Vermicomposting takes some effort, but it is a clean, simple way to reuse kitchen waste and produce useful, nutrient-rich compost.

More Composting Inspiration

• Discover 5 easy composting shortcuts to fill garden beds and pots in time for spring planting.
• Learn about electric composters and decide whether countertop food recyclers are the right solution for you.
• Find out how to compost all the different paper types – and which ones you can't – with our expert guide.

Composting is a fad that has staying power. There are many ways to reduce waste, and turning kitchen scraps into nutrient rich soil is a fairly easy one. But not everyone has room for a compost pile. Using an indoor worm bin is a small way to make sure those leftover veggies don't go to waste and our landfills aren't overfilled. Indoor worm composting may be done with a purchased kit, but it's just as easy to make a DIY worm farm.

Red wigglers are the key to starting a worm farm, and their habitat can be made with many household items. Curious how to make a worm farm? First, find a good container that will breathe, hold in the worms, and is large enough for the worms and your level of kitchen scraps. The worms will need bedding, a bit of moisture, and the system will also need regular carbon sources to help the nitrogen balance.

Tips on Starting a Worm Farm

Vermicomposting is similar to regular composting. The degrading items will need to be consistently damp but not soggy, have the correct balance of nitrogen and carbon, and be cut fairly small for quicker break down and to avoid mold. The enclosed system uses the worms to eat the kitchen scraps and excrete nutrient rich castings. The resulting finished product may be used in house plants, as a fertilizing tea, or in the garden.

The type of worm is important. The earthworms outside your home do effectively break down organic matter but they are not suited to the high temperatures the worm bin will achieve. Red wigglers are a type of worm adapted to warm temperatures and their activities won't be interrupted by high heat. Red wigglers are available to purchase at many garden centers or online. But before they arrive, make them a nice home.

Starting a Worm Farm

The first step is selecting a container. It may be steel, clay, cement, plastic, wood, or other materials. Avoid using a cardboard box due to the moisture levels which will break it down too quickly. A very easy, inexpensive, and quick home for the worms comes in the form of a plastic tub that has had holes made in the bottom, top, and sides. Whatever container you choose should have a tight-fitting lid like those that come with storage tubs. The holes provide air, but also release excess moisture to prevent mold. That excess moisture will drip, so situate the bin on something absorbent or easily cleaned.

The size of the bin depends on the amount of kitchen waste you generate. It is recommended to purchase 2,000 red wigglers for every pound per day of kitchen waste. They will need a bit of room, but crowding a bit is not a problem.

Steps to a DIY Worm Farm

Once you have your container and location, it is time to put in bedding. Use organic materials without chemical dyes such as paper bags, newspaper, paper towels or coconut coir. Dried leaves, sawdust, and other organic carbon sources are also suitable.

Strip the paper material and soak it in water. Squeeze out excess moisture, line the bin, and top it with garden soil or compost. The resulting mix should fill the container by 1/3. Add the red wigglers and let them get used to the new home for a couple days. Then place a 1 inch (2.5 cm.) layer of finely chopped kitchen scraps in the bin. Don't add too much at once or it will mold before the worms have a chance to eat it all.

As you add scraps, top them with an equal amount of carbon, such as paper or wood-based materials, dry leaves or grass, to keep the proper balance. If the habitat gets dry, mist it with water until just damp. The castings will be dark brown, and ready to use for your plants within 1 to 2 weeks depending upon size of food scraps, temperature, and other factors.

Vermicompost is the process of converting organic waste into nutrient rich humus through the use of earthworms. The newest incarnation of this process is the worm tower. A worm compost tower is similar to an enclosed worm farm but with the tower placed directly into the garden. You can purchase a compost tower or make your own DIY worm compost tower. 

About Worm Tower Composting

A vermicomposting tower is a terrific way to get to a zero waste household. Not only do the worms clean up your organic waste but they leave behind nutrient rich castings in the soil. 

Sounds like a win/win right? Well in a perfect world, it is. But the reality is that you need to pay attention to the type of worm used, the size of your worm tower, venting heat yet keeping water out of the compost tower, and using safe materials that don’t leach hazardous toxins into the soil. 

Compost Tower Materials

A vermicomposting tower can be purchased, or you can build one yourself fairly easily. The choice of material you use depends on you and what you are concerned with. For instance PVC piping is often recommended for use when building a DIY worm compost tower however some people are concerned with leaching of vinyl chloride from the cut ends. Another option is ABS piping, however, it is made with BPA which may not be ideal either. 

A food grade bucket will eliminate issues with BPA or other risky materials, or clay pipes can be used although they are difficult to cut into without cracking or shattering. Another option is to build your DIY worm compost tower out of wood. 

DIY Worm Compost Tower

Whichever type of material you choose it must have a hole in both ends as well as alternating holes all around the tube. Next dig a hole in the ground or raised bed that is deep enough to accommodate the tube. Don’t dig too deep, about a foot or so (30 cm.); remember worms are surface creatures. 

Place the compost tube in the hole and fill in the outside of the tube with soil. Place a layer of old leaves and food scraps into the bottom of the tube and cover the food with shredded paper, grass clippings, soil or dried leaves. Add the worms and cap off the tube with a PVC cap or a terra cotta plant pot. 

Continue to add food scraps to the worm compost tube avoiding any meat, bones, dairy, citrus or oily food scraps. 

High-quality soil is essential to a healthy garden. Composting is an excellent way to transform organic scraps into valuable amendments to the soil. While large compost piles are effective, vermicomposting (using worms) is appealing to those looking to produce rich garden humus with very limited space. The process is quite simple, still many gardeners wonder, "How many composting worms do I need?”

How Many Composting Worms Do I Need?

Vermicompost worm amount in the composting bin will be dependent on the amount of scraps produced. Gardeners should begin calculating the number of worms in compost by weighing the amount of compostable materials produced during one week’s time.

The weight of the scraps in pounds will relate directly to the surface area and amount of worms needed for the vermicomposting bin. Unlike traditional piles, vermicompost containers should be relatively shallow to ensure proper movement among worms.

Red worms, also known as red wiggler worms, for vermicomposting work extremely hard to break down components added to the bin. Generally, red wiggler worms eat about half their own weight each day. Therefore, most suggest that composters order worms (in pounds) twice the amount of their weekly scrap weight. For example, a family producing 1 pound (0.5 kg.) of scraps each week would require 2 pounds (1 kg.) of worms for their composting bin.

The amount of worms in compost can range greatly. While some gardeners prefer a higher number of worms for quicker results, others choose to incorporate a smaller number of worms. Each of these scenarios will result in different outcomes which may impact the overall success and health of the worm bin.

With proper preparation of the vermicomposting bin and the introduction of worms in composting, gardeners can create high quality organic material for the garden at a minimal cost. 

Exactly what are worm tubes and what good are they? In short, worm tubes, sometimes known as worm towers, are creative alternatives to traditional compost bins or piles. Making a worm tube couldn’t be easier, and most supplies are inexpensive – or maybe even free. A worm tube provides a perfect solution if you have a small garden, if you just don’t want to bother with a compost bin, or if bins are frowned upon by your homeowner’s association. Let’s learn how to make a worm tube!

Worm Tube Information

Worm tubes consist of 6 inch (15 cm.) pipes or tubes inserted into the soil. Believe it or not, that’s really all there is to making a worm tube! Once the tube is installed in your garden bed, you can drop fruit and vegetable scraps directly into the tube. Worms from the garden will find and eat the goodies prior to leaving rich worm poop (castings), extending to a 3 to 4 feet (1 m.) radius around the tube. In essence, these food scraps are effectively turned into beneficial vermicompost.

Tips on Making a Worm Tube

Cut PVC pipe or a metal drain tube to a length of about 30 inches (75 cm.). Drill several holes into the lower 15 to 18 inches (38-46 cm.) of pipe to make it easier for worms to access the scraps. Bury the pipe about 18 inches (46 cm.) into the soil. Wrap a piece of screening around the top of the tube or cover it with an inverted flowerpot to keep flies and other pests out of the tube. Limit food scraps to non-meat items such as fruits, vegetables, coffee grounds, or eggshells. Initially, place a small amount of soil and compost in the pipe, along with the scraps, to get the process started. If you don’t like the appearance of the pipe, you can always paint your worm tube green to blend in with your garden or add decorative elements to suit your preferences. As an added benefit, your worm tube may even serve as a handy perch for bug-eating songbirds!

Have you ever thought of raising earthworms? Not as pets, but as a way to create more compost and enrich your garden soil. Worm beds in gardens are not difficult to make and maintain and can help you get more out of your kitchen waste and compost.

What are Worm Beds?

A worm bed is essentially a larger version of a worm bin, an ecosystem for raising and feeding earthworms. Worm bins are easy to find at any gardening store, but they are small and limiting. A worm bed, on the other hand, is a larger space that you can construct in your yard to get more earthworms and more benefits. Worm bed benefits include having more space to raise worms and, therefore, more space to produce additional compost. Another reason to create a worm bed rather than simply using a small worm bin is that you can start a little side business raising and selling worms for composting or even as bait.

How to Build a Worm Bed

Worm beds can be made in a variety of ways and there are a lot of different worm bed ideas out there, from glass fish aquariums to large plastic bins. To truly make a large worm bed, though, the best way is to create a bed that is dug right into the ground in your yard or garden with wooden planks for sides. Start by digging a square or rectangular pit, then line the bottom with cardboard or landscape cloth, and the sides with wooden boards. Alternatively, you can use bricks or cement blocks. Shred and moisten newspaper to make bedding and create a thick, fluffy layer of it in the bottom of the bed. Add worms, soil, and food scraps and watch your worms turn it into rich organic soil and compost. Keep the bed moist and don’t let it dry out or your worms will die. Add more food waste regularly to feed the worms and encourage reproduction. Keep in mind that if you don’t seal the bottom of the bed, the worms will move from the bed to the soil and back. If you want to keep them strictly in the bed, secure landscaping cloth to the sides. If you use red wigglers instead of earthworms, you will need a lid for your bed. They won’t get away through the soil, preferring to stay in the organic layer, but they may crawl out. Just be sure to drill holes in the top for fresh air. Before long, you’ll have a thriving community of worms and plenty of rich compost for your garden.

Vermicomposting is a great way to put your kitchen scraps to work growing compost worms and creating lots of castings for your garden. Although it seems like a straightforward pursuit, all isn’t as it appears with vermicomposting. Often, you collect hitchhikers in your bin, resulting in vermicompost with maggots. Before you panic, take a breath and read this article about dealing with vermicompost maggot infestations.

Maggots in Vermicompost

Keeping a worm bin can force you to come to terms with the varied creatures that help break down living tissues. For many, these pests in vermicompost have come to be associated with filth and disease, but the truth is that many are complementary to your worm bin. One of the most commonly friendly foes is the black soldier fly. Outdoor worm bins are perfect environments for soldier fly larvae to develop, resulting in the appearance of maggots in vermicompost. Some worm farmers will elect to leave the black soldier fly larvae in their bins, since they neither feed on worms, nor significantly impact their ability to feed. A little extra material in your bin can ensure that the black soldier fly larvae also get their fill. While they eat, they grow and exude chemicals that discourage other flies from helping themselves to your compost. As an adult, a black soldier fly only lives for about a week, but has no mouth or stinger, so there’s no risk of harm coming from them.

How to Get Rid of Maggots in Vermicompost

If you’re of the opinion that your black soldier fly larvae are simply too much to bear, you’ll need to make several changes to ensure they’re destroyed, and new adults can’t enter your worm box. First, attach fine screens to your air holes, no matter where they are, and mend any gaps all the way around. Caulking fine gaps can keep flies from squeezing in. Vermicompost with maggots of any type is almost certainly too wet, so the first thing you’ll want to do is dry out the top of the bin. You can let it dry out on its own, then be careful not to overwater in the future, or add more material that can soak the excess liquid right away – like newspaper or shavings. Once the bin is dry, make sure you bury your food offerings to your worms deeper under the surface to discourage flies from approaching. Fly strips can help trap adults that mature inside your bin.

Vermicomposting is the creation of nutritious compost using worms. It’s easy (the worms do most of the work) and extremely good for your plants. The resulting compost is often called worm castings and it’s what the worms have cast off as they eat the scraps you feed them. It is, essentially, worm poop, but it’s loaded with nutrients your plants need. Worm casting tea is what you get when you steep some of your castings in water, just like you would steep tea leaves. The result is a very useful all-natural liquid fertilizer that can be diluted and used to water plants. Keep reading to learn more about how to make worm casting tea.

How to Make Worm Casting Tea

There are a few ways to make worm-casting tea for plants. The most basic is very easy and works well. Simply scoop a few handfuls of worm casting from your bin (make sure not to bring any worms along). Place the casting in a five-gallon (19 L.) bucket and fill it with water. Let it soak overnight-- by morning the liquid should have a weak brown color. Applying a worm casting tea is easy. Dilute it in a 1:3 tea to water ratio and water your plants with it. Use it right away, though, as it will go bad if left longer than 48 hours. To make steeping a little neater, you can make a tea bag for your casting using an old tee shirt or stocking.

Using Worm Casting Tea Recipe

You can also follow a worm casting tea recipe that’s a little more complicated but more beneficial. If you add 2 tablespoons (30 ml.) of sugar (unsulfured molasses or corn syrup works as well), you’ll provide a food source for and encourage the growth of beneficial microorganisms. If you submerge a fish tank bubbler in the tea and let it brew for 24 to 72 hours, you can aerate it and greatly increase the number of microorganisms. When using worm casting tea, be on the lookout for bad smells. If the tea ever smells putrid, you may accidentally have encouraged bad, anaerobic microbes. If it smells bad, stay on the safe side and don’t use it.

Vermicompost (worm compost) is an interesting project, and if things go as planned, the finished product is a nutrient-rich, all-natural fertilizer that will do wonders for your vegetable garden, flowers, or houseplants. Worm composting isn't difficult but preventing worms from escaping from the bins often presents a challenge to people who are new to worm-farming. If only a few worms are trying to escape, it really isn't a big deal, especially if your bin is brand new. However, if you're seeing a worm bin escape of exodus proportions, it's important to get a handle on the situation in a hurry.

Preventing Worms from Escaping

If your worms are trying to escape, the first order of business is to check for certain environmental problems that are common problems in worm bins. It's possible that the worms aren't comfortable in their new digs. For example, it may seem like a good idea to shred computer paper and recycle it in the bin, but white paper is bleached and may be scratchy enough to cause the worms to flee. Shredded newspaper or other unbleached paper may help prevent worms escaping compost. If you have already filled your bin with white paper, take out a few handfuls and replace it with shredded newspaper. Worms may also try to escape a soggy environment. The bedding should be evenly moist, but it shouldn't drip when you squeeze a handful. If the paper is compacted, worms may suffocate. If wet bedding is the problem, remove part of the bedding and replace it with fresh bedding to soak up excess liquid. If the bin is flooded, pour out the water in the bottom or just start over with new, moist bedding. If you're overfeeding the worms or if you're giving them a lot of lettuce, tomatoes, or other watery vegetables, you may want to cut back on their diet until the bedding dries out. Worms also like consistency. If you make a drastic change in their bedding or their diet, they may attempt to vacate the premises. Of course, worms may run away from home if you forget to feed them.

How to Escape Proof a Worm Bin

A new batch of worms may be more likely to wander until they become acclimated to their new home. Worms are a little like Dracula-- they fear the light. Keeping a light on around the clock for the first couple of days will encourage the worms to burrow into the bedding. If worms are escaping from drainage holes in the bin, covering the holes with nylon stockings will block escape passages while allowing air to circulate. Keep your bin in a relatively peaceful location. For example, don't place it where the worms feel the vibration from vehicles or heavy equipment, and don't open the bin every hour to check their progress.

Worm bins are one of the best gifts any gardener can give themselves, even though they require a fair amount of attention. When worms eat your garbage and turn it into incredibly rich, black castings, there's lots to celebrate, but even the best worm system is prone to vermicomposting pests. Fruit flies in vermicompost are an annoying problem but, thankfully, they're not among the more serious pests you'll encounter during your adventures in worm farming. A few changes in your worm routine should send any accumulating flies packing.

How to Prevent Fruit Flies

Preventing fruit flies in worm bins is a difficult challenge; most vermicomposters find they simply have to learn to manage these insects. Because fruit flies and worms have very similar needs, it can be a delicate dance adjusting your worm bin to conditions that will completely eliminate or prevent fruit flies. Here are a few tricks that work well to keep fruit fly populations away from your vermicompost for longer: Feed your worms non-rotten food that's cut into small pieces. The smaller sized chunks are easier for worms to eat completely before the food begins to decompose and attract flies. Rotten food is a great host for fruit fly larvae, so avoid adding more pests to the pile by feeding only still-edible choices. Don't overfeed your worms. For the same reason that rotten food or food cut in too large of chunks is an attractant, overfeeding brings mature flies to the vermicompost bin. Feed a little bit at a time, waiting until your worms have eaten all the food before adding more. Conceal food items. Make sure to bury your food items and cover the top of the material inside the worm bin with a loose sheet of newspaper. These extra precautions help to prevent fruit flies from ever getting a whiff of the food you're offering your worms. If fruit flies become a problem despite good worm feeding practices, you'll need to get control of them sooner rather than later. Fruit flies multiply surprisingly fast in a worm bin and can soon outcompete your worms for food. Start by reducing the moisture level in the bin, keeping the bedding just moist. Hanging fly paper or installing homemade traps can quickly kill adults, breaking the fruit fly life cycle.

Worms are not welcome in the average home, but you may reconsider when you learn about the benefits of using worms for vermicomposting. Vermicomposting is a wonderful and efficient way to turn kitchen scraps like veggie peels and rotting fruit into a great soil amendment. The “motor” behind the vermicompost process is special “compost worms” that break down organic matter into nutrient-rich worm castings.

Why use vermicomposting instead of regular composting? Worm castings are rich in essential plant nutrients and contain microbes that are extremely beneficial to plants.

Let's dig in and learn a little more about which worms make the best vermicomposting partners.

Basics of Vermicomposting

“Verm” means “worm” in Latin, and vermicomposting is a method of composting that utilizes worms. Regular composting depends on fungi and microorganisms to break down plant detritus. When you rely on worms, you leave most of the work to the worms. You don’t have to turn the compost bin or even touch a worm.

Vermicomposting is a quick, efficient way to convert kitchen scraps into a rich soil amendment with the help of earthworms. Vermicompost worms break down organic matter, such as kitchen scraps, into waste products called castings.

Although castings may be waste to the worms, they are a rich treasure for gardeners. Vermicompost is richer in essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium than traditional compost. It also contains microbes that help plants grow. (Want the nutrients of worm castings, but aren't really interested in rearing worms? No judgement here! You can purchase organic worm castings from Amazon.)

Best Worms for Composting

Seven species of worms are suitable for vermicomposting, but one is generally recommended, Eisenia fetida. These worms are commonly called red wigglers, manure worms, or brandling worms. Red wigglers are the best composting worms since they are adaptable, prefer dark or moist environments, thrive in a “bin” environment, and love to eat kitchen scraps. They produce high quality worm castings, and they are very easy to keep. You can purchase red wigglers from online retailers like Meme's Worms.

Worm Quantities

One pound (0.45 kg) of worms will do wonders in your composting. These worms can turn 65 pounds (29.4 kg) of garbage into mature compost in 100 days. But the quantity of worms to use in your bin depends on how many food scraps you are going to be composting.

Red wigglers eat 25 to 50 percent of their body weight per day. That means that if you are producing one pound or a pound and a half of food scraps each day, 2,000 worms, or two pounds (0.9 kg), will be fine.

However, if you are short on space or only produce a small amount of kitchen scraps per day, you can have a smaller set up. A little vermiculture container under your sink with 250 worms (1/4 pound) is a great place to start. The "Worm Bucket" indoor worm composter from Meme's Worms is compact and is a great starter kit for those who may be worm curious. Just 1 square foot of space is required!

Vermicomposting is a fun activity for the whole family and if you feed your worms regularly you'll have a steady supply of vermicompost for your garden.

Worms Not to Use for Vermicomposting

Not every type of worm will work in composting, and digging out worms in the garden for vermicomposting is not a good idea.

Be careful when you are buying the worms. Although vermicomposting is sometimes called “red worm composting,” this can be misleading. You should never purchase red worms from bait stores. Many of these are not red wigglers but rather an invasive species.

How to Start Vermicomposting

If you’ve set your bin up appropriately, you’ll be ready to add the worms. You need to add shredded newspapers, small pieces of cardboard, or coco coir to the bin as bedding material for your worm buddies and to cover up food waste.

Soak the bedding material first and wring out the excess water, then fill up the bin half full before adding the worms and a handful of garden soil. Add more bedding material on top of the worms to cover them.

To feed the worms, put a small mound of kitchen scraps into the bin, either in the corners or as a thin layer on top of the bedding. Cover up the scraps with a few inches of bedding material to keep out flies and keep the worm bin from becoming smelly. Don’t add more food until the worms eat this pile of scraps.

Make sure your scraps are cut into smaller pieces before you add them to the bin. Keep track of how long it takes your worms to eat certain amounts of food waste and adjust your feeding schedule accordingly.

You can add most any kitchen scraps as long as you avoid meat, dairy, citrus, onions, and garlic. Worms will even munch through crushed egg shells, coffee grounds, and tea leaves.

Worm Compost Essentials

Composting and the reduction of waste is a sensible way to help the environment and keep landfills free of excess organic waste. Kitchen vermiculture allows you to create a nutrient-rich fertilizer from worm castings that you can use in your garden. Vermicomposting under sinks is convenient, environmentally sound, and creates no mess.

About Kitchen Vermiculture

Worms are remarkably un-fussy and just need organic food to eat, a moist earthy bed, and warmth. The first step to this easy and economical waste removal system is the creation of worm composting bins for indoors. In no time you will be feeding the little guys your kitchen scraps, reducing waste, and building a soil amendment that is of amazing benefit to your plants. Kitchen worm composting takes up very little space. The best varieties for turning your kitchen scraps into “black gold” are the red wigglers. They can eat their body weight in food daily and their castings are a rich fertilizer for plants.

Worm Composting Bins for Indoors

You can build a small wooden box or simply use a plastic bin with a few adjustments to house your new composting buddies.

• Start with a wooden box or plastic bin. You can also purchase a kit but it is more costly than using materials at hand. On average, you need one square foot (0.1 sq. m.) of surface for every pound (0.5 kg.) of material you collect for under sink composting with worms.
• Next, make bedding for the worms. They like a dark, warm area with moist, fluffy bedding like damp shredded newspaper, straw, or leaves. Line the bottom of the bin with 6 inches (15 cm.) of the material you choose.
• The perfect container should be 8 to 12 inches (20.5 to 30.5 cm.) deep to accommodate the food scraps, worms, and bedding. If you cover the bin, make sure there are air holes for vermicomposting under sinks or any area that is appropriate.

Food for Kitchen Worm Composting

Here are some things to know when feeding your worms:

• Worms like their food slightly broken down or even moldy. Food scraps are easier for the worms to eat if they are smaller pieces. Cut up heavy vegetables and fruit into one-inch (2.5 cm.) cubes and place them in the bin.
• Lightweight items, like lettuce, are easier for worms to make short work of and turn into castings. Do not feed dairy, meat, or excessively greasy items.
• You don't want a smelly bin, so keep in mind how much you feed the worms. The amount will vary dependent upon the number of worms and the size of the bin. Start small with only a small amount of food scraps buried in the bedding. Check in a day or two to see if they ate all the food. If they did, you can increase the amount, but be careful not to overfeed or you will have a stinky mess.

Under sink composting with worms may take some trial and error to get the appropriate amount of food for the bins size and food scrap level. Over a few weeks, you will see that the food scraps and bedding are broken down and clean smelling. Remove the castings and start the process over again with a handful of worms. The cycle is virtually unbreakable as long as you keep the bin clean, food scraps small and appropriate, and have a healthy colony of red wigglers.

Vermicomposting is a great way to use up kitchen scraps without the hassle of a traditional compost pile. When your worms eat your garbage, though, things can go wrong until you get the hang of this composting method. Smelly vermicompost is a very common problem for worm keepers and one that is easily remedied. Read on to learn more.

My Vermicompost Stinks!

When your worm bin smells bad, it's easy to assume that you've really messed up. Although this isn't an indication that everything's well in the world of your worms, it's not usually an insurmountable problem. There are a few common causes of rotten smelling worm bins.

Food

Look at what you're feeding your worms and how you're feeding it. If you're adding more food than the worms can eat quickly, some of it is bound to rot and stink. At the same time, if you don't bury that food at least an inch under the surface of the bedding, it may start to smell before your worms get to it. Certain worm-friendly foods, like onions and broccoli, naturally smell as they break down, but so do oily foods like meat, bones, dairy and oils -- never feed these to worms because they'll become rancid.

Environment

Vermiculture odor appears when your worm environment has a problem. Often, the bedding needs to be fluffed or more added to help soak up excess moisture. Fluffing the bedding and adding ventilation holes help increase air circulation. If your worm farm smells like dead fish but you've been careful to keep animal products out of it, your worms may be dying. Check the temperature, moisture level, and air circulation and correct those items that are problematic. Dead worms don't eat garbage or reproduce effectively, it's very important to provide an ideal environment for your little composting friends.

Your worm bin is teeming with life and things are going really well for your vermicomposting project -- that is, until you notice uninvited creatures crawling around in the bedding. Pests and bugs in vermicompost are a common problem, but these worm bin pests can be eliminated by manipulating the environment to make it less friendly to them.

Vermiculture Insects and Pests

There are several types of visitors to a worm bin. Some are highly compatible with worms and help to break down foods, but others may pose a serious threat to your worms. Knowing the insect pests in worm bins can help you better manage your vermiculture pest problem. Sowbugs and Springtails - These are common isopods that like the same sort of conditions that make your worms happy. They're also excellent decomposers. If silver, pill-shaped sowbugs or white, c-shaped springtails appear in your worm bin, it's nothing to worry about. In fact, they can help the worms with the work. Flies - Flies are also harmless, but are usually considered undesirable by humans because of their propensity to carry disease and hang around garbage. In this case, they may be helpful allies in the decomposition process, but depending on the location of your worm farm, might need to be controlled. Make sure to only feed your worms fresh scraps, cut the food into very small pieces to help the worms eat faster, feed a wide variety of food and keep the worm bin moist, but not wet. Layering a sheet of newspaper on top of your worms' bedding will keep the flies out of the bin. If the flies start congregating on the paper, change it frequently to eliminate them; severe fly problems may require a complete change of bedding to destroy eggs and larvae. Ants - Ants can be a pain for vermicomposters - these tiny, industrious creatures rob food from your worm bins and may attack worms if times are tough enough. Move your worm bin to a different location and surround it with a moat of water to prevent ants from entering - they are not capable of crossing water. Centipedes - Centipedes may attack and kill your worms, so if you see these nasty creatures in your vermicomposter, pick them out and destroy them. Make sure to wear gloves, since some species pack a mean bite. Mites - Mites are bad news; there's no delicate way to put it. These pests feed on worms and can destroy your composting project in no time flat. If you notice food that's mite-covered, remove it right away and place a slice of bread on the surface of the bedding. Remove the bread when it's covered in mites and replace with another to trap more mites. Reducing the moisture of the bedding can make your worm bed uncomfortable for these tiny pests.

Vermicomposting is an environmentally friendly way of reducing food scrap waste with the added boon of creating nutritious, rich compost for the garden. One pound of worms (about 1,000 worms) will eat about ½ to 1 pound (0.25-0.5 kg.) of food scraps per day. It's important to know what to feed worms, the vermicomposting do's and don'ts, and how to feed composting worms.

Care and Feeding of Worms

Worms love to eat and spend most of their time doing so. Just like you and I, worms have culinary likes and dislikes. So what to feed worms and what should you avoid putting in the worm bin?

What to Feed Worms

Of the vermicomposting do's and don'ts, veggies and fruits are a resounding “DO.” Worms will eat any of the following:

• Pumpkin
• Leftover corn cobs
• Melon rinds
• Banana peels
• Fruit and veggie detritus

However, it is best to avoid putting citrus, onions, and garlic in the worm bin. Onions and garlic will eventually be broken down by worms, but the odor in the interim may be more than you can handle! Citrus pulp or any highly acidic fruit added to the worm bin in large quantities can kill off your worms, so be aware and only add small amounts or just add the citrus peels without the pulp. When vermiculture feeding, basically go “green.” Worms will eat almost anything that you would put in a traditional compost bin such as coffee grounds, crushed eggshells, plant waste, and tea leaves. “Green” additions are nitrogen-based, but the worm bin also needs “browns" or carbon-based items such as shredded newspaper, copy paper, egg cartons, and cardboard. Some “DON'TS” in the feeding of worms are:

• Do not add salty or oily foods
• Do not add tomatoes or potatoes
• Do not add meat or dairy products

Worms will eat tomatoes but make sure to break down the seed or you will likely have some tomato sprouts in the bin. No big deal, however, as you can just pull them out. The same may occur with potatoes and their eyes spouting before the potato is consumed. Meat and dairy are “don'ts,” as they tend to smell quite rancid before they break down completely. Also, they attract pests such as fruit flies. Don't feed the worms pet waste or any “hot” manure. “Hot” manure is un-composted animal waste and its addition may result in heating the bin too much for the worms.

How to Feed Composting Worms

Be sure to chop larger pieces of fruit and vegetable into smaller pieces before vermiculture feeding. This aids in the decomposition process. Depending on the size of your bin, feed the worms from once a week to every two days with about a cup (240 ml.) of food. You may want to keep a journal regarding how quickly your worms consume certain things so you can adjust timings, amounts, and varieties. A stinky worm bin may be an indicator of overfeeding. Rotate the areas of feeding in the bin to ensure all worms are getting fed and tuck the food 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) under the bedding to thwart those pesky flies. The best indicator of proper feeding is the condition of your worms and their increasing numbers. Proper care and feeding of the worms will reward you with rich soil for your garden, a smaller garbage can, and a hand in reducing the amount of waste in our landfills.

Composting worms can be helpful allies in the war on trash, but until you get the hang of vermiculture, worm death may complicate your efforts. Worms are generally pretty tough, but they have exacting environmental standards. If your vermicompost worms died, don't give up -- just reset your bed and try again. Read on to learn common reasons for composting worms dying.

Vermicompost Worms Dying

Usually, worms dying in vermicompost systems can be traced back to one of a few problems: incorrect moisture levels, problematic temperatures, lack of air circulation, and too much or too little food. Keeping a worm farm means constantly checking it for these key items. Regular check-ups will also help you stave off pests if they begin to make trouble. Moisture - Moisture must be present for worms to thrive, but too much is as bad as too little. Wet your bedding so that it's just slightly damper than a wrung-out sponge and add more bedding if you're going to be feeding something especially wet, like watermelon. The extra bedding will soak up the additional moisture the food produces, protecting your worms from drowning. Temperature - Temperatures between 55 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit (12 and 25 C.) are ideal for earthworms, but they don't tolerate violent temperature swings. Keep a thermometer handy and check the bin several times a day. If you notice the sun shining directly on the bin or if it's hot where you live, move it to a shady spot to prevent cooking your worms to death. Air circulation - Air circulation is a common cause of compost worms dying in their bin. Even if your bin came with plenty of pre-drilled air holes, they can become plugged, causing oxygen starvation. Sometimes, the bedding gets compacted and needs to be fluffed up to allow air to circulate inside the layers. Keep a close eye on these factors for worm success. Food - Food is a tricky part of keeping healthy worms. As a rule of thumb, worms will eat about a half-pound (0.25 kg.) of food for every pound (0.5 kg.) of worms in your system. When they begin to breed and spread out, this number may increase, but you'll have to monitor their consumption closely. Too little food may lead to your worms eating their own castings, which are poisonous to them.

Worms are happiest when the temperature is between about 55 and 80 degrees F. (12-26 C.). Colder weather can kill worms off by freezing, but they are in just as much danger if unwatched in hotter weather. Caring for worms in hot weather is an exercise in natural air conditioning, working with nature to create a cooler environment in the worm compost bin. High heat and worm bins normally make a bad combination, but you can still experiment with vermicomposting when it's hot outside as long as you make the right preparations.

High Heat and Worm Bins

The hottest temperatures can kill off an entire worm population if you do nothing to help save it. Even if your worms survive, a heat wave can make them sluggish, sick, and useless for composting. If you live in an environment that is hot for a good portion of the year, such as Florida or Texas, install your worm bins with an eye toward keeping them as cool as possible. Placing your worm bins or compost bins in the right spot is the first step in keeping worms cool in summer. The north side of your house generally gets the least amount of sunlight, and sunlight causes heat. When you begin building your bins, or if you're planning on expanding your operation, place them where they get the most amount of shade during the hottest part of the day.

Tips for Vermicomposting When It's Hot

Worms tend to slow down and get sluggish when the heat is on, so stop feeding them and rely on their natural ability to sustain themselves until it's cool again. Extra food will just sit in the bin and rot, possibly causing problems with disease organisms. If you live in the hottest parts of the country, consider using Blue Worms or African Nightcrawlers instead of the common Red Wiggler worms. These worms developed in tropical climates and will survive a heat wave much easier without becoming sick or dying off. Keep the pile moist by watering it every day. Hot climate vermiculture depends on keeping the compost heap as cool as possible given the environmental conditions, and evaporating moisture will cool the surrounding area, keeping the worms more comfortable.

Almost every gardener is familiar with basic composting, where you pile various types of refuse in a heap and microbes break it down into a useable soil amendment. Compost is a wonderful garden additive, but it can take months for the ingredients to break down into useable form. One way to speed up the decomposition and get to your compost fast is by adding worms to the mix. Plain red wiggler worms eat through piles of compost in record time, making worm composting a smart addition to your gardening activities. If you live in a northern climate, though, winter worm composting will take a little more effort. Taking care of worms in winter is a matter of making sure they have enough heat to get through the season without freezing.

Winter Worm Composting

Worms thrive when the outside temperature is between about 55 and 80 degrees F. (12 to 26 C.). When the air begins to turn colder, the worms get sluggish, refuse to eat, and sometimes even try to escape their environment to search for a warmer climate. Cold climate vermiculture, or worm farming in cold weather, consists of fooling the worms into thinking it's still fall and not yet winter. The easiest way to do this is to remove the worms and store them somewhere fairly warm, such as an insulated garage or cool basement, or even bringing them indoors. Barring that possibility, you'll have to create an insulated environment to keep your worms alive through the winter.

Tips for Worm Farming in Cold Weather

The first step in vermicomposting when it's cold is to stop feeding the worms. When the temperature lowers, they stop eating and any food leftovers may rot, encouraging organisms that can cause disease. The idea is simply to allow them to live through the winter, don't have them create more compost. Insulate the compost heap with 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm.) of leaves or hay, then cover the pile with a waterproof tarp. This will keep in the warmer air and keep out snow, ice, and rain. Try burying leftover cooked rice in the compost before covering it. The rice will break down, creating heat during the chemical process. As soon as the weather warms to above 55 degrees F. (12 C.), uncover the pile and feed the worms to help them recover.

Worm composting is an easy way to reduce landfill pollution and provide juicy, rich soil for your plants. It is especially suited for the apartment or condo dweller who has limited space. Worm composting bins abound at nursery centers and online, but they are easy and cheaper to assemble yourself. Make your own worm bins and enjoy these slimy little “pets” and their rich castings.

Worm Composting Bins for Home and Garden

Vermicomposting is the term for worm composting bins. There are many types of worm bins for purchase, but you can also make your own worm bins. You can take advantage of the natural earthworms in your soil by building earthworm boxes. These are similar to vermicomposting bins, but have no bottom so the earthworms can burrow up into the organic refuse. Old wooden boxes with holes drilled in the bottom would also work for building earthworm boxes. The purpose is to contain your kitchen scraps and prevent animals from digging in them and yet allow the worm's access to the food.

Types of Worm Bins

Bottomless bins are one type of vermicomposting system, which is used for building earthworm boxes. You can also use plastic containers, wooden boxes or even bamboo. Avoid containers of metal, which leach into the soil and increase mineral concentrations. The most basic types of worm bins are single layer. You can also do several levels, so the worms move to the next layer when their work is done in the first. This allows you to harvest the castings. For an even fancier set up, install a spigot at the bottom to collect the compost tea. This is the leftover moisture that has steeped through the worm compost and contains vitamins and minerals useful as food for plants.

Make Your Own Worm Bins

You can make worm composting bins for home and garden use yourself using the following steps:

• Start with the container and drill twenty ¼-inch (6.4 mm) holes in the bottom.
• Set another container under this that leaves a gap for the worms to move into after they are finished with the contents of the top layer. Drill holes in the bottom of this bin and holes around the edges of both containers for ventilation.
• Line both bins with shredded paper for bedding that has been soaked in water and squeezed dry.
• Add a layer of dirt and place a big handful of red worms inside. This is only if you are not building earthworm boxes.
• Put a moist sheet of cardboard on top and then cover with a lid that has more ventilation holes drilled into it.
• Place the bin in a cool, but not cold, location indoors or out. Keep the mixture moderately damp, but not soggy.

Feeding Worm Composting Bins

Feed the worms your food scraps slowly until you see how much they can eat. One pound (0.45 kg) of worms can consume ½ pound (0.23 kg) of food scraps per day. The worms multiply quickly, so you will gradually have enough worms to handle larger amounts of kitchen scraps. Avoid giving them dairy, meat, fatty items and animal waste. Keep the food buried in the bedding to reduce fruit flies and moisten the paper frequently but lightly. When the bedding is used up, add more until the bin is full of castings. Then put the second bin on top of the castings with moist bedding and food. The worms will move up to that bin through the holes in the bottom and the whole process starts over again. Watch these directions for a worm compost bin:

Worms play an important part in soil construction and recycling of organic waste. They are a part of a network of organisms that turn refuse into nutrient rich soil. These nutrients are one of the benefits of garden worms to plant growth. Worms in gardens also perform cultivation functions that increase soil porosity and allow oxygen to get into roots. Encourage earthworms in soil or even try worm composting to experience the life-giving effects of worm castings.

Earthworm Benefits

Worms tunnel in soil and eat organic matter, which they excrete as castings. Worms abound in soils that are around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 C.). Any extremes of cold, heat or moisture are not good for worm activity. Worms in gardens are most active when soil is moderately warm and moist. Their tunneling behavior accentuates the percolation of water into the soil. They also loosen soil so oxygen and aerobic bacteria can get into plant roots. Looser soils also allow plant roots to penetrate deeper and access more resources, which in turn builds bigger, healthier plants. One of the biggest benefits of garden worms is their ability to turn garbage into fertilizer.

Worms in Gardens and Lawn Areas

The fertilizer the worms provide is also called castings. Technically, this is worm poop, derived from their processing of organic waste. The castings are excellent sources of nutrients for plants, but may pose a nuisance in yards. This is a form of worm composting. Earthworms in grass leave casting hills, or mounds, that are visually unappealing and may pose a trip hazard. The benefits of garden worms far outweigh this minor inconvenience, however. Consider that if there are 5,000 worms in an acre of soil, they can produce 50 tons of beneficial castings.

Encouraging Earthworms in Soil

Avoid deep tilling to prevent damage to permanent earthworm burrows. “Feed” your worms by providing layers of organic munchies for them to eat. These might be grass clippings, leaf litter or other natural compostable items. Do not use pesticides, which can kill entire populations of worms in gardens. You can also transplant a couple of shovels full of soil laden with worms to areas with few of the organisms. They will soon populate the area. Worm eggs are also available at some nurseries and online. Vermicomposting will also encourage these beneficial creatures to the garden.

Worm Composting

You can use these recycling abilities on your kitchen scraps. Red wigglers and redworms are the organisms of choice for worm composting, also known as vermicomposting, which is done in a bin. Earthworms aren't a good choice - they are diggers and will try to get out. Placid red wigglers will turn your kitchen scraps into compost quickly and also provide compost tea for plants that need extra babying. Line a bin with newspaper or shredded organic material and layer in good quality compost. Add finely cut kitchen scraps, add worms, and cover with a light dusting of soil. Keep the compost lightly moist and put a lid on with air holes punched in for the worms. As they compost the scraps, scrape finished product to one side and add more. This small set up provides similar earthworm benefits, but on a small scale.

Vermicomposting is the practice of using red worms to help break down food waste. The worms may be housed in a cardboard box, plastic bin, or wooden structure. The worms need bedding as a home, and the box must have holes in it for drainage and aeration. Earthworm vermicompost is the natural product yielded by garden worms. Also called castings, it's nutrient rich and provides excellent food for your plants. Learn how to deal with vermicompost issues to ensure healthy worms and rapid break down of your kitchen waste.

How to Deal with Vermicompost Issues

Worm bins are simple to make, but a few vermicomposting problems arise as a direct result of an incorrectly built bin. For example, if there are not enough holes, the interior will be too moist and the food scraps will rot. Drainage will also be inadequate and the worms could drown. The choice of bedding is also important to avoid problems with the delicate balance of the environment. There does need to be slight moisture and a moderate pH level. Paper and loose bedding, like shredded cardboard, tend to dry out too quickly. Peat moss has a low pH level that is not good for worm health. Outdoor earthworm vermicomposting relies upon the ability of the worms to move to suitable locations. Containerized vermicomposting relies upon you to provide the ideal habitat.

Vermicomposting Problems

Take care to position the worm bin where it is warm enough. The optimum temperature is 50 to 80 degrees F. (10-26 C.). Cut food scraps into small pieces that the worms can break down quickly and easily. This prevents moldy chunks in the compost. Worms can eat most food scraps that you or I might digest, but avoid greasy, smelly, and animal products. These types of foods may cause your castings to smell rotten, or the worms may not even break them down. Keep vermicomposting problems to a minimum by following the guidelines on container, site, moisture, and food scrap characteristics.

Pests in Vermicompost

Vermicompost may occasionally have gnats or flies hovering about. The gnats may be from soils that are too moist. The solution is to keep the lid off to dry the bin or reduce watering. You can also mix in extra bedding to distribute the moisture. Flies are attracted to the food itself. Overly large pieces of food or foods that are not buried in the bedding will pose an irresistible lure to flies. Other pests in vermicompost are not common, but outdoor bins may become the local hangout for beetles, sow bugs, and other insects that break down organic matter. Worm bins that carry a strong smell are also of interest to raccoons and certain other scavenging animals.

Worm Castings in the Garden

Once food has broken down into castings, the material is suitable for mixing into garden soil. Remove one-half of the reduced material and use in the garden. Save the other half as a “starter” and layer it over fresh bedding and add more food scraps. Vermicomposting problems are easy to avoid when you keep a constant temperature, moisture level, and use the right kinds of food scraps.

Worm castings are one of nature’s little miracles, which is a bit surprising considering what they are. Worm castings are essentially the fecal matter from worms. These wriggly garden residents are wonderful at eating up organic refuse and turning it into a material full of useful nutrients for your plants.

You can purchase earthworm castings at most garden centers or get organic worm castings online from Amazon, but a more economical way to harness the benefits is to create your own vermicomposting setup. Red wigglers are the primary type of worm used to eat up kitchen scraps and create this magic soil amendment.

Adding worm castings to the soil aerates and improves its overall structure while providing beneficial nutrients to plants. They are also effective for repelling many pests that feed on plants. Keep reading to learn more about the benefits of worm castings, how to make your own, and how to use them in your garden.

Worm Composting Essentials

What Are Worm Castings?

Worm castings, which is basically just worm poop, is an amazing soil amendment for your garden. When worms eat organic matter, they excrete it in the form of little mounds of slightly muddy matter. Also known as vermicast or worm manure, castings are highly prized among organic gardeners. But worm castings aren’t just digested food. They are also made of enzymes and beneficial bacteria.

Good quality worm castings should be dark brown, slightly moist yet crumbly, and smell like soil. They contain as much as 50% more humus than what is normally found in topsoil. Worm castings resemble football-shaped particles that improve soil aeration and drainage, as well as increase water retention in the soil. They are water soluble, too, which means they are easy to quickly deliver nutrients to plant roots.

You can purchase worm castings at most garden centers nowadays or you can even find them online from Amazon, but they can be a bit pricey. Although, you don’t need a huge quantity to make a big difference in your garden.

What Do Worm Castings Look Like?

Worm castings are crumbly and look a bit like used coffee grounds. They should be nearly the same color, too. They are slightly moist and cling together. Earthworm castings have no smell beyond freshly turned earth.

If you go out to a spot in the dirt in your garden where worms are present, you will likely find little piles of worm castings especially after watering or a rain.

Benefits of Worm Castings

Worm castings are an excellent organic alternative to synthetic fertilizers for several reasons. Not only can you use this worm castings on nearly any type of plant, but you can also use them directly around plants without fear of fertilizer burn like conventional plant foods cause. Simply apply worm castings as a top dressing, side dressing, or work it into the soil.

They contain a high quantity of the important NPK macronutrients that plants need. The ratio of each varies depending upon what the worms have eaten, but overall they release loads of macro and micronutrients as well as trace minerals. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and magnesium are plentiful. Minerals and other elements like zinc, copper, sulfur, and iron are also present.

Worm castings enrich the soil and improve soil solubility, which allows plant roots to quickly take up nutrients. They enhance the soil by increasing percolation and aeration, too.

The beneficial microbes in worm castings can also help plants fight off diseases like damping off as well as crown rot and root rot. The reason for this is an enzyme called chitinase. Plants absorb this after you apply worm castings. Then when insects feed on the plant, the enzyme dissolves their insides and they die. This enzyme is effective against fruit flies, some hard-shelled bugs, spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, and other common garden pests.

Drawbacks of Worm Castings

One of the main disadvantages of worm castings is the amount of work required to make just a small amount of this soil amendment. With a typical home vermicomposting station, you can only produce enough castings to fertilize your houseplants or a small part of your garden.

You can buy premade worm castings that are ready to apply directly to your plants, but they can be a bit costly. Though they are rich in nutrients, so you don’t need enormous amounts to make a difference with your plants.

For a big vegetable garden, the best way to harness the benefits of castings is to encourage earthworms. A large earthworm population will enhance the soil naturally. To encourage earthworms, use no-till techniques, incorporate organic matter into your soil, and try to keep a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH.

You can also invest in an in-ground worm composter, like this one from Vego Garden, to bring more worms to your garden. Simply bury the in-ground worm bin in your garden, then place kitchen scraps and organic waste into it, and wait for the worms to arrive.

How to Make Worm Castings

Making worm castings at home is easy, but potentially a bit messy. You can buy premade worm bins from Amazon or you can make your own. To make a worm bin, you need just a few items: kitchen scraps, red wigglers, which you can also order online from Amazon or get at some plant nurseries, and a couple of plastic totes.

You will need two totes that can nest into each other. They should be no more than 1 foot (30 cm) deep. If they are too deep, they may become problematic with odors. Also, smaller bins work better in the home because they can fit beneath the sink or in another corner of the kitchen. You will also want a lid for your bin because the worms for vermicomposting are sensitive to light.

Drill holes in the bottom of one of the bins and some holes around the sides for air. The bottom holes will drain any fluids. Place something in the bottom bin to keep the upper bin up and away so drainage can occur. This could be some stones or a couple bricks, anything you have lying around.

If you wish, you can install a drain on the bottom tote to release the liquid into another vessel. This will prevent any unsavory smells from your worm bin. Plus, this liquid, called worm casting tea, is a great fertilizer for your garden.

Add wet, shredded newspaper to cover the bottom of the upper tote, then top it with a couple inches (5 cm) of compost or another layer of moist newspaper strips and soil, and add your red wigglers. Finally, add kitchen scraps or garden waste, then top the whole thing with a lid that has had ventilation holes drilled into it.

You need to regularly feed your worms with kitchen scraps to get them to produce lots of castings. Follow the same rules as composting and avoid meat, bones, dairy, and oils. Keep the compost in the bin slightly moist.

How to Harvest Worm Castings

After about four months, it should be time to start harvesting worm castings. There are a couple different methods for doing so.

One of the most popular is the dump and sort method. Simply lay out a sheet of plastic or newspaper and empty out the contents of the worm bin. Collect the worms and add them to a fresh vermicompost bin, then use the leftover castings on your plants.

Another popular method is to stop feeding your worms for a week, then push the contents of your worm bin to one side and add fresh bedding and food to the other side. In a couple more weeks, the wigglers will migrate to the side with the food and bedding materials.

Then you can safely scoop out the vermicompost, without harming your red wigglers. The lower bin will also contain the moisture that has come through the compost. Pour this worm casting tea on your garden soil around plants to give them an extra boost.

How to Use & Store Worm Castings

Keep worm castings in a plastic bag or a lidded bin in a dark location until you are ready to use them. They may need occasional misting to keep them moist. You will also need to open the bag or bin every week to let out any excess moisture, so they don’t mold.

To use worm castings, add them to potting soil, mix them into your garden soil, turn them into fertilizer tea, or use them to make a foliar spray. To make worm casting tea, soak the castings in water for a few days, then strain. For a spray, take this liquid and dilute it in a ratio of 1:20 with water. Spray on the leaves of garden plants or houseplants.