Clematis plants are serious climbers. Indeed, they might be the showiest of climbers. This rapid-growing, vigorous vine climbs up trellises, pergolas and fences, up to 30 feet (10m) high, using twisting leaf petioles and twining growth. If your garden includes a climbing clematis, you’ll know that it helps to create an enchanting three-dimensional flowering space. So the last thing you’ll want to do is compromise the vitality of your climbers – which is why you need to check a few things now.

Now, as long as you have planted yours in an appropriate site, clematis care is not all that complicated. These plants prefer to have their head in the sun and feet in the shade, as the saying goes. And for most of spring and early summer, this can happen without too much fuss. But as the summer weather heats up this month, all vines (including clematis) need targeted attention to keep them growing happily.

Taking 20 minutes this week to attend to your Group 2 and Group 3 clematis vines is not just about keeping up appearances. The little things you do now will directly determine how long those velvety petals can hold on during midsummer heat spikes, the intensity of their colors, the size and health of the blooms, and the shape and mass of their growth. Here’s how to ensure that your queen of climbers continues to be the star of your summer show.

How to Help Your Clematis in July

The heat in July can sometimes feel closer to oppressive than delightful. Our favorite plants also feel the heat, and, unlike us, they can’t escape to the cool of the shade. Clematis, in particular, requires a full sun location to thrive, which means it’s stuck in the heat without so much as sunglasses. So it’s counting on you to ride to the rescue by tackling these key tasks in July. First, make sure you know your vine's specific pruning group or class, as this is the key to unlocking its full blooming potential.

Group 1 spring-bloomers like Clematis montana and C. alpina have finished their flowering and are quietly settling into vegetative growth. July belongs to Group 2 clems (early summer flowerers like Nelly Moser) and Group 3 (late summer bloomers like Jackmanii and C. viticella). For Group 2 clematis types, what you do in July can determine whether you see a secondary flush in late summer. For Group 3, this is peak performance season, which relies on regular care and support.

The nature and degree of your clematis care in July will depend on your USDA hardiness zone and growing setup. In warmer regions (zones 7-9), moisture retention and root cooling are top priority. In northern zones (zones 4-6), long daylight hours will drive rapid stem elongation that requires structural checks. Container-grown clematis suffer heat stress faster than ground-planted vines. Soil temperatures can spike rapidly, drying out delicate roots within a single afternoon.

Whether you’re growing in the ground or in a container, be sure to give your soil a quick onceover before getting stuck into these clematis steps. Check soil moisture levels with a digital probe, or by dipping your finger two inches into the root zone. A moisture probe like the XLUX Moisture Meter Probe, available from Amazon, can help you avoid piling undue stress onto delicate roots. Once you have a basic read on these levels, get cracking with these simple checks for happy clems in summer.

1. Give Your Clematis Regular Water

Vines dry out faster than rounded shrubs, since they can’t rely on their own shade. Think of a hydrangea shrub: the big leaves cast shade on the interior of the plants, keeping it cooler. A clematis doesn’t have that luxury. Since its roots thrive in moist soil, regular watering is a must. In July, you’ll want to give vines a deep watering. Do this early in the morning, to maximize absorption and reduce evaporation.

Clematis feeder roots reside in the top 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) of soil, making them vulnerable to drying out during heatwaves. For Group 3 varieties, water stress can cause buds to crisp up and drop before opening. To simplify the process of regular watering, you can use a soaker hose or some kind of drip irrigation. The Gilmour Flat Soaker Hose from Amazon can deliver deep moisture without splashing the foliage.

Direct your hose or drip line at least 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) from the main stem base. Soaking the crown directly can invite the risk of clematis wilt. Water deeply at the base 2-3 times a week. Try not to neglect this vital task, or else your clem will likely drop her lower leaves, and prematurely terminate flower production.

2. Protect Clematis Roots with Mulch

Those clematis roots are the key to keeping your plant thriving. Watering deeply is important, but you can also lock in that moisture with a good mulching. Place a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the vine to protect the roots from extreme heat. Chopped bark or compost works well for this task.

A team favorite for organic root protection is Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon, which protects from heat spikes, and locks in moisture. It also keeps down weeds that might steal nutrients or water from the vine. When mulching Group 2 and Group 3 clematis, leave a 2-inch (5 cm) gap around the main stems. Don't pile mulch up against stems, as this can trap moisture and encourage collar rot.

As an alternative to mulching, you could add some groundcover plants around the base of your clematis. Shorter perennials can also provide natural shade and keep soil cool. For container-grown clems, consider shallow-rooted companions like hardy geranium (Rozanne) or lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis) to shade soil organically.

Failing to mulch or provide some groundcover during midsummer forces the plant into survival mode when heat strikes, stalling stem growth and causing flowers to shrink drastically. So don’t neglect this vital step: a protected root zone preserves moisture and nutrients and supports healthy growth through to the end of summer.

3. Feed Your Clematis Vine

You need to get the timing right with feeding. You don’t want to stress the clematis by fertilizing the plant during a heatwave. But clematis plants do need fertilizer every few weeks to keep up their vigorous blooms. So keep an eye on the weather. When a day or two of cooler weather is predicted, apply a phosphorus-rich liquid fertilizer. Follow up by watering well, try to do this every 2-4 weeks.

Avoid high-nitrogen lawn or general fertilizers. High nitrogen fuels leafy green stems at the expense of flower buds and results in soft foliage that attracts aphids. Instead, focus on potassium (potash) and phosphorus blends similar to a tomato or rose feed. For low-maintenance feeding, gently add a little granular feed, like Jobe’s Organics Rose & Flower Granular Fertilizer, available from Walmart, to the topsoil.

A little seaweed can also help. Feeding with Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, gives a gentle potassium boost as well as other essential minerals to drive flower production. Group 2 clematis benefit from a liquid feed immediately after their first main flush ends. This fuels the stem growth needed for their second late-summer show. Group 3 clematis plants need bi-weekly potassium feeds through July to sustain their massive bloom displays.

Always water your plant with plain water an hour before applying liquid fertilizer to prevent root burn. And if you’re experiencing intense heat, hold off on feeding until temperatures drop. Stressed plants can’t process nutrients well.

4. Give Your Clematis a Haircut

The heat of summer is never a wonderful time to prune, but consider giving your vine a clip here or there in July. If you have a reblooming clematis (Group 2), deadhead the wilted blossoms. Use clean, sterilized pruners and snip off the old flower heads above the first pair of live leaves or buds. If your clematis has completed its blooming, now is a good time to give the vine a light trim. Take out the dead wood and shape the vine. But avoid anything that feels like heavy pruning.

If you don’t already have a pair of gardening scissors or snips, Fiskars Micro-Tip Non-Stick Pruning Snips from Amazon help you to slice in fiddly spaces without harming plant tissue. For a sturdier grip on older stems, the Corona ComfortGEL Bypass Pruners from Lowe’s are comfortable and great for light shaping.

Left untouched, spent clematis flowers spend significant energy forming decorative, feathery seed heads. By snipping off faded blooms, you redirect that energy back into shoot development and bud formation. It is key for Group 2 plants such as Nelly Moser, Miss Bateman, or Niobe clems. Do this now, and fresh shoots will emerge in a few weeks, bearing a second wave of blooms by late August or September.

Remember, Group 1 clematis plants set their flower buds for next spring during late summer. So any heavy pruning performed after July will cut off next spring's flower display. When cutting, also remember to wipe blades before and after use, even for light trims. Use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol to avoid the risk of spreading pathogens.

5. Control New Clematis Shoots

Clematis vines are well known for having growth spurts in summer, and all those vigorous new shoots need to be tied in and supported. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a tangled mess of vine. In July, Group 3 clematis can put on several inches of growth in a single day. If left unguided, searching stems will wrap around each other, forming a dense, tangled birds' nest of growth. This reduces light penetration and airflow, increasing the risk of fungal diseases.

Check vines every week in July for loose shoots, and fasten straggly or wayward shoots. Jute twine, like the Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Twine from Amazon, is a gentle way to keep growth in check and won’t bite into the stem. Tie the stems loosely in the direction you want them to grow. Try figure-of-8 loops to allow the stems to grow without restraint. Consistent training creates an evenly distributed canopy, allowing for the best sun exposure and resulting in a wall of flowers from top to bottom.

Shop Clematis Essentials

By the time July rolls in, clematis groups 2 and 3 are working in overdrive, either opening their main flush of summer blooms or gearing up for a secondary late-season show. You don't need a shed full of gadgets to keep them thriving – just a few well-selected tools and organic boosters will do the trick and keep your favorite climber growing at its best. A well-placed feed, precise deadheading, and a cool root zone are the secrets to prolonging those velvety blooms well into fall. Here are the simple, high-impact essentials to keep your clems lush and lovely.

Plant Care Trio

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Let me guess: you've got a bare fence, plain wall, or lonely pergola crying out for a climbing plant. You could spend hours weighing up the practicalities – sun or shade, fast-growing or slow, container-friendly or not – or you could take a far more whimsical approach and choose your birth month vine instead.

Now I’ll admit, I thought I’d seen every birth month trend going. Birth month flowers? Check. Birth month birds? Absolutely. Birth month trees? Of course. Birth month animals? Sign me up! But then I discovered that you can have a birth month vine, and honestly, I think this might be my favorite one yet.

Maybe it’s because there’s something wonderfully romantic about climbing plants. They don’t just sit politely in a flower bed; they scramble over old walls, soften fences, cloak brickwork in flowers, and somehow make even the smallest outdoor space feel like the entrance to a secret garden. And every vine has its own personality, which makes pairing one with your birth month surprisingly fitting.

All 12 Birth Month Vines

We’ve already embraced birth month flowers as a way to celebrate the seasons, and even birth month bugs have become a fun way to reflect different personality traits. So why not vines? Whether your climber is covered in fragrant blooms, dramatic foliage, or elegant trailing stems, each one captures a slightly different character.

Of course, no plant can truly define who you are. Think of your birth month vine in the same way you might your zodiac sign: a lighthearted way to celebrate all the wonderful qualities that make you uniquely... well, you.

So, whether you’re fiercely independent like January, adventurous like April, or endlessly optimistic like December, here’s the vine that best represents your birth month – and the special meaning behind it.

January – Sweet Autumn Clematis

If anyone can handle the vigorous nature of sweet autumn clematis, it’s a January-born gardener. This climber doesn’t do anything by halves; it grows with confidence, flowers abundantly, and quietly takes charge of whatever support you give it. Much like January personalities, it thrives when left to get on with the job rather than being fussed over. Buy your own Sweet Autumn Clematis from Nature Hills now.

February – Wisteria

Is there a more dreamy vine than wisteria? Its cascading blooms look like something from a fairytale, making it the perfect match for February’s imaginative spirit. There’s an artistic quality to both – the kind that turns ordinary spaces into something unforgettable. (And no, before you ask, I am not a February baby, so this is an entirely unbiased review).

The Amethyst Falls Wisteria Vine from Nature Hills is definitely the way to go here.

March – Virginia Creeper

Virginia creeper has a way of weaving itself gracefully through a garden, creating a calming backdrop for everything around it. It doesn't need flashy flowers to make an impression, because its beauty lies in its quiet confidence and stunning seasonal transformation. That feels like a perfect match for thoughtful, compassionate March personalities, whose greatest strengths often reveal themselves gradually.

You can buy live Virginia creepers as bare root plants from CZ Grain Store.

April – Grape Vine

April personalities aren’t afraid to climb higher, and neither is the grape vine. Fast-growing and full of life, it rewards patience with abundant fruit while bringing lush greenery wherever it grows. It’s a vine that embraces opportunity – just like the people it’s paired with. Personally, I rate something like the pollinator-friendly Lakemont Seedless White Grape Vine from Nature Hills.

May – Climbing Hydrangea

If ever there were a birth month vine that proved slow and steady wins the race, it’s climbing hydrangea. It spends its early years establishing strong roots before rewarding gardeners with breathtaking displays of lacecap blooms. May-born individuals tend to approach life in much the same way, building lasting foundations rather than chasing quick success.

Bag yourself a stunning Climbing Hydrangea from Nature Hills.

June – Trumpet Honeysuckle

Walk past a trumpet honeysuckle in bloom and you’ll quickly notice it’s rarely alone. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds all seem to gather around it, making it one of the most sociable vines in the garden.

All of that buzz and promise? Well, that feels like a perfect fit for June’s outgoing, chatty personality to me!

July – Clematis

Clematis has a wonderful habit of weaving itself through other plants, adding softness without overwhelming its companions. It doesn’t need to dominate to make an impact, and that’s exactly why this birth month vine suits the forever loving and caring nature of July personalities so well. The Sweet Summer Love Clematis from Nature Hills is a perfect fit for anyone seeking a way to honour their soul vine!

August – Confederate Jasmine

Few vines know how to make an entrance quite like Confederate jasmine. The glossy evergreen foliage on this heat-loving climber is beautiful all year, but when those intensely fragrant white flowers appear, it’s impossible not to notice. August babies usually possess that same effortless ability to light up a room.

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September – Passionflower

If any vine rewards a closer look, it's passionflower. At first glance, its blooms are simply beautiful. Pause for a moment, though, and you'll notice an extraordinary world of delicate filaments, perfectly arranged petals, and intricate patterns. It's the kind of plant that appeals to people who appreciate precision and the finer details, making it a fitting match for thoughtful September personalities who appreciate the finer details.

Pick yourself up a Passiflora Incarnata Maypop Live Plant from Urban Meadow Nursery, then, stat!

October – Climbing Rose

Some plants simply make everyone happy, and climbing roses are surely among them. Elegant without feeling over-the-top, they soften walls, arches, and pergolas with timeless beauty. Like October-born individuals, they have a knack for bringing harmony wherever they grow.

Try the New Dawn Climbing Rose from Nature Hills if you want to lean into your birth month vine's wonderful energy, I say. (I'll be joining you, as a fellow October baby).

November – Cascade Rosemary

Rosemary has long symbolized remembrance and loyalty, so cascade rosemary feels like a natural partner for November personalities. It may look delicate spilling over walls or containers, but it’s remarkably resilient and quietly dependable through the seasons. It is a birth month vine that perfectly speaks to the passionate, determined, loyal winter babies among us (and it smells beautiful, too!).

Go for Blue Cascade® Rosemary from Nature Hills if you want yours studded with vivid blue flowers.

December – Hops (or Ivy)

December finishes the year with a vine that’s always reaching for something new. Whether you picture the energetic growth of hops or the adventurous spirit of ivy climbing wherever it can, both capture December’s enthusiasm for exploring the world. Always looking ahead and eager for the next adventure, these are the birth month vines for people who never like standing still. Try a Comet Hops Vine or Thorndale English Ivy from Nature Hills, and embrace the green.

Personally, I think life is too short to overthink plant shopping. Whether your birth month vine feels like a perfect match or not, if it fills your garden with beautiful foliage, flowers, or fragrance, that's all the justification I'd ever need.

If you need me, I'll be perusing the climbing roses...

Every summer, I find myself trying to keep the house cool without relying on air conditioning. Closing curtains helps a bit (as does sitting in front of a fan with an ice cream in hand), but I much prefer solutions that work with nature rather than against it.

That's one reason I've become fascinated by those vines that cool your house down. Planted in the right spot, they do the same job as trees for shade, creating a living awning that softens harsh afternoon rays before they reach your windows while adding color, flowers and plenty of wildlife appeal to the garden.

The clever part, though? Why, that comes later in the year. As temperatures cool, these climbers naturally shed their leaves, allowing low winter sunlight to stream back through your windows just when you need the extra warmth and light.

Vines That Cool Down Your Home on Hot Days

It's an old gardening trick that's becoming more relevant as hotter summers become the norm across many parts of the US. Instead of blocking light all year round, deciduous vines like coral honeysuckle adapt with the seasons, helping create a more comfortable home while making outdoor spaces greener and more inviting.

Sold on the idea? Of course you are! For beautiful climbing plants that earn their keep, look no further, then, than these seven heat-loving vines, all of which promise plenty of natural summer shade without sacrificing winter sunshine. Perfect.

1. Trumpet Honeysuckle

A beautiful native vine that proves a practical plant can still be stunning, trumpet honeysuckle produces tubular red-orange flowers throughout summer. Not only does this create a magnet for hummingbirds, its dense green foliage helps block out the harshest rays of the sun and cool your house in the process.

Unlike other varieties of honeysuckle, many of which can be... well, if not invasive, than thuggish, this native species stays much better behaved in the garden. Try something like the Major Wheeler Honeysuckle Vine from Nature Hills, then, and get growing!

2. Climbing Hydrangea

A beautiful native vine that proves a practical plant can still be stunning, trumpet honeysuckle produces tubular red-orange flowers throughout summer. Not only does this create a magnet for hummingbirds, its dense green foliage helps block out the harshest rays of the sun and cool your house in the process.

Unlike other varieties of honeysuckle, many of which can be... well, if not invasive, than thuggish, this native species stays much better behaved in the garden. Try something like the Major Wheeler Honeysuckle Vine from Nature Hills, then, and get growing!

2. Climbing Hydrangea

Vines That Cool Down Your Home on Hot Days

It's an old gardening trick that's becoming more relevant as hotter summers become the norm across many parts of the US. Instead of blocking light all year round, deciduous vines like coral honeysuckle adapt with the seasons, helping create a more comfortable home while making outdoor spaces greener and more inviting.

Sold on the idea? Of course you are! For beautiful climbing plants that earn their keep, look no further, then, than these seven heat-loving vines, all of which promise plenty of natural summer shade without sacrificing winter sunshine. Perfect.

1. Trumpet Honeysuckle

A beautiful native vine that proves a practical plant can still be stunning, trumpet honeysuckle produces tubular red-orange flowers throughout summer. Not only does this create a magnet for hummingbirds, its dense green foliage helps block out the harshest rays of the sun and cool your house in the process.

Unlike other varieties of honeysuckle, many of which can be... well, if not invasive, than thuggish, this native species stays much better behaved in the garden. Try something like the Major Wheeler Honeysuckle Vine from Nature Hills, then, and get growing!

2. Climbing Hydrangea

If your priority is cooling a sunny wall or window, climbing hydrangea is hard to beat (I should know; I have one sprawling over my own fence!). Its large, overlapping leaves create a thick green curtain during summer, helping shield your home from intense heat. And, come fall, it drops its foliage, allowing precious winter sunlight back through.

It is slow to establish, but once mature it becomes one of the most impressive shade-producing climbers you can grow. Pick up a Climbing Hydrangea from Nature Hills, stat!

3. Virginia Creeper

Look, it gets a bad rep, but we all know that if you need coverage quickly, Virginia creeper delivers. This vigorous native vine can rapidly cover trellises, fences and walls with lush green leaves before transforming into a fiery display of red and purple in autumn. Its dense summer canopy makes it particularly useful for shading hot walls and windows, but it all comes with a caveat: keep on top of pruning! It is an understatement to say that this very enthusiastic grower appreciates a little guidance.

You can pick up Virginia Creeper Live Bare Root Plants from the CZ Grain Store via Amazon easily enough.

4. American Wisteria

For a romantic garden feel, look no further than the standout star of Bridgerton, I say! Yes, it's hard to beat wisteria trained over a pergola or arbor, and American wisteria in particular produces fragrant flower clusters that form a leafy canopy (aka welcome shade during the hottest months).

Unlike the better-known Asian varieties, this native option is far less aggressive. Try the Amethyst Falls Wisteria Vine from Nature Hills if you want a truly beautiful vine that cools down your home and keeps pollinators buzzing.

5. Passionflower

Fast-growing and full of personality, passionflower brings both beauty and function to summer gardens. Its intricate flowers attract bees and butterflies, while its vigorous leafy growth can help create a temporary living screen for fences, pergolas or sunny spots.

This vine doesn't just cool down your home on hot days, though; in colder regions, it dies back in winter, returning when temperatures rise, and allowing light to flood your home when you need it most. Buy a passionflower from Amazon, then, and enjoy.

6. Grapevine

Grapevines have been used for centuries to create shady outdoor spaces, and for good reason. Their broad leaves form an effective summer canopy over pergolas and patios, while their fabulous fall color and edible fruit add heaps of extra appeal.

Once the leaves drop, too, winter sunshine can reach your home again. Something like the Canadice Seedless Grape Vine from Nature Hills should work a treat!

7. Common Hop 'Comet'

If you want dramatic summer coverage quickly, ornamental hops are worth considering. This vigorous deciduous vine can scramble up supports and create a dense leafy screen in a single growing season.

It dies back completely in winter, making it ideal for gardeners who want summer shade without losing winter light. Just be sure to provide a trellis for clambering purposes!

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By shading windows, walls and patios during the hottest months, leafy climbers are a great way to reduce the amount of solar heat entering your home.

It's a simple gardening trick that's been used for generations, but as summers become longer and hotter across much of the US, it's one that's well worth revisiting.

The devil works hard, basically, but a well-chosen deciduous vine works even harder! Use yours to cool down your home on hot days, and you'll never look back.

As our summers seem to get hotter every year, I've found myself rethinking the plants I grow. Instead of choosing varieties that simply survive the heat, I'm looking for ones that actually thrive in it – and reward me with color, fragrance and plenty of wildlife, even during the warmest spells.

That's why I'm always on the lookout for fragrant plants that do more than just look pretty. A beautiful perfume can completely transform a garden, especially if you spend summer evenings outdoors, and there's nothing better than catching the scent of flowers drifting across the garden on a warm breeze.

If you're searching for perfumed patio plants that can cope with rising temperatures while making your outdoor space feel like a Mediterranean escape, there is one heat-loving climber I'd happily recommend. Because, with its glossy evergreen foliage, masses of starry white blooms and an unforgettable fragrance, it's a plant that earns its place year after year.

The Heat-Loving Climber You Need To Try

No surprises here, but confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is the heat-loving climber that has been stealing the show in gardens everywhere this summer.

Although it isn't a true jasmine, its intensely sweet perfume is often compared to – and by some gardeners even preferred over – the fragrance of roses. On warm evenings, the scent drifts through the garden, making patios, pergolas and seating areas feel like an outdoor retreat.

Unlike some vigorous climbing plants, confederate jasmine (also known as star jasmine) is generally well behaved, making it easier to keep within bounds with a light trim after flowering. And it loves sunshine and warmth, making it an excellent choice for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 10.

No surprises here, but this heat-loving climber grows happily in full sun or partial shade, although the strongest flowering and fragrance usually come from plants that receive at least six hours of sunlight each day.

Once established, confederate jasmine is also relatively drought tolerant. Regular watering during its first growing season helps it develop a strong root system, sure, but mature plants are capable of coping with periods of dry weather better than many flowering climbers.

If you live in a colder climate, don't rule it out entirely. Many gardeners successfully grow star jasmine in large containers that can be moved to a sheltered spot during winter.

The heavenly fragrance isn't just for people to enjoy, either, as the nectar-rich flowers attract bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other beneficial pollinators (including your birth month bug, probably). Its dense foliage, too, can also provide valuable shelter for small birds, making it a triple threat.

There's lots you can do with a confederate jasmine. Train it over a pergola to create a scented canopy, or let it soften a plain fence or brick wall. It also performs beautifully around entrances, and it can even be grown as an evergreen ground cover on slopes or banks where its spreading stems help suppress weeds while creating a lush carpet of foliage.

Whichever location you choose, make sure the soil drains well, as confederate jasmine absolutely loathes sitting in waterlogged ground.

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For gardeners who want maximum impact without constant upkeep, star jasmine is hard to beat. Aside from occasional watering during prolonged dry spells and a light prune to keep growth tidy, it asks for very little in return (think a spring application of a balanced fertilizer and a layer of mulch).

Honestly, it's easy to see why so many gardeners consider star jasmine one of the best climbers for warm-climate gardens. Jump on the bandwagon, I say! Once it's in full bloom, you'll understand why so many people pause to enjoy its scent every time they walk past.

Do you dream of cascades of enormous wisteria flowers but get a vine-full of foliage instead? This plant blooms on the previous year’s growth so the secret to get bigger wisteria flowers next summer lies in what you do with it now. Prune wisteria in July and you'll direct all its energy into growing next year's flowerbuds.

In July, your wisteria vine has finished producing this year’s flowers and gets busy growing long, whippy stems full of leaves. Leave these straggly stems to flourish and you won’t just have a giant plant on your hands, but far fewer flowers next year, and perhaps none at all.

Remove those unruly long stems now, however, and you’ll force your vine to focus its energy on growing fat flowerbuds for a waterfall of big, beautiful blooms next May and June. And it's easy to do, even if you're a beginner gardener. Pruning a wisteria vine is a key July gardening job, and a summer trim also makes its second prune at the end of winter so much quicker to do. Ready? Here's exactly how to prune wisteria in summer.

How to Prune Wisteria in July

First, trace the new, straggly stems – called whips – back to the point they emerge from the main framework of the vine. Then count five buds or leaf stalks along the whip and use bypass hand pruners such as these from Amazon or a pair of pruning scissors like these from Amazon to cut just above that fifth bud.

Shorten all the whips in this way. If you find some have already wound themselves into a big tangle, don’t worry about untangling them – just get snipping. It’s not critical to precisely count five buds or leaf stalks, that’s an optimum number to aim for.

If your vine also has bare stems hanging downwards, snip those off too. These are what’s left of this year’s flowers and they’ll soon turn yellow and look unsightly. If there are seedpods attached, you might want to leave them to enjoy the sight of these silvery adornments. But, if your goal is huge flowers next year, it’s best to remove them as that will prevent the vine from wasting energy on seed production.

Removing all this whippy growth halts the wisteria’s rampant growth and stops the plant putting all its energy into growing stems and leaves. And that's important: wisteria certainly isn't one of those well-behaved vines that won't scramble out of control. This vine has evolved to grow rapidly up through tall trees in a forest to reach the sunlight, so growing all these whips to help it clamber up through a tree canopy to get life-giving sunshine is its number one priority in summer.

So, removing the whips saves a whole heap of energy that can be used to grow bigger flowers.

Getting rid of this leafy growth also allows more sunlight to reach the short lengths of woody stems left, which is critical. Sunshine is necessary to ripen this wood, and more sun will grow fatter flowerbuds for bigger blooms. Skip pruning your wisteria in July and all the foliage that grows on the whips can block so much sunlight that your vine doesn’t flower at all the following year, as flowerbuds only form on sun-ripened wood.

The other advantage to pruning wisteria in July is that it keeps this vigorous vine, which has the potential to become invasive, under control. Leave these whips in place and each one is capable of growing up to 10 feet long. Once they've hardened into a woody tangle around drainpipes and chimneys, pruning them in late winter is a far harder task.

So now you know exactly what to do, you can be confident about trimming your vine to get more wisteria flowers, avoiding common pruning mistakes. By shortening the whippy growth in July, your vine will produce less foliage and more flowers for a spectacular display next year.

How to Prune Wisteria in Late Winter

Wisteria needs pruning twice a year, once in late summer and once in late winter. And the good news is that shortening all the whips on your wisteria in July makes the main winter prune so much easier.

When winter-pruning a wisteria vine in January or February, you simply need to reduce those stems you cut in July further, to two or three buds. You can tell which are the flower buds and which are the leaf buds: the fat, teardrop-shaped buds will form flowers, while the thinner, flatter, more pointed buds will grow leaves. Creating these short spurs concentrates all the plant’s energy into the fattest buds at the base of the stems, giving you much larger flowers.

In late winter, you can also prune to remove dead, damaged or diseased stems, to keep your vine healthy, but leave the main framework alone.

Other Plants to Prune in July

If you’ve only got time to prune one plant in July, make wisteria your priority. Here’s what else can be pruned in July, once you’ve done that vital task:

• Early-flowering shrubs such as philadelphus (mock orange), weigela, forsythia and deutzia, if you haven't pruned these already. All these shrubs flower on the previous year’s growth so pruning them now gives them plenty of time to form fresh growth and next year’s flowerbuds.
• Fast-growing hedging plants such as privet. While you should trim slower-growing hedging plants such as box, hornbeam and beech at the beginning of summer, and again at the end, giving faster-growing plants such as privet a trim every 4-6 weeks will keep it in shape.
• Early-flowering honeysuckle, once it’s finished flowering. Reduce flowered shoots by a third and, if your plant is only flowering at its stem ends, cut up a quarter of stems to two feet from the ground to encourage blooms across the whole plant.
• Fruit canes that have finished fruiting, such as early-fruiting raspberries. Cutting old stems off at the base to make room for new stems.
• Rambling roses that aren’t rebloomers, if they’ve finished flowering. The ideal time to prune ramblers is immediately after they’ve finished flowering in late summer, shortening the side branches to around 4 inches and clearing out any old wood.
• Trained fruit trees such as cordon apples and pears. Standalone fruit trees are pruned in winter but shoots on highly trained trees can be shortened now.

After spending the past week slowly melting in my house and repeatedly standing directly in front of a fan, silently daring it to do a better job, I've come to a conclusion: there has to be a better way to keep your home cool.

With summers getting hotter and heatwaves becoming increasingly common, I've found myself obsessively researching ways to lower the temperature at home (ideally one that doesn't demand round-the-clock air conditioning).

Planting trees for shade is an obvious long-term solution, and even houseplants can have a modest cooling effect indoors. But there was one other plant that kept cropping up in my search: coral honeysuckle.

How Coral Honeysuckle Helps Keep Your Home Cool

I'll admit, the word "honeysuckle" initially made me nervous. Like many gardeners, I've heard plenty of horror stories about invasive honeysuckles taking over fences, scrambling up trees, and generally wreaking havoc.

However, coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is a very different plant. Native to North America, it is a non-invasive climbing vine that offers something many of us desperately need during summer: shade, shade, gloriously cooling shade.

When grown over a pergola, trellis, arbor, fence, or even around a porch, coral honeysuckle produces dense foliage that can help shield walls, windows, and outdoor seating areas from intense summer sun. And, by reducing the amount of direct sunlight hitting your home, clever climbing plants can help create cooler microclimates around the house thus making outdoor spaces much more comfortable during heatwaves.

What I particularly like about coral honeysuckle is that the vine grows vigorously enough to create cooling cover, but it doesn't have the aggressive, garden-swallowing tendencies associated with some other climbers.

There's another benefit, too; coral honeysuckle is deciduous, so while you get welcome shade during the hottest months of the year, the leaves will drop come fall and you won't be blocking precious sunlight from reaching your home during winter, when every ray feels like a gift.

Now, as someone who is always trying to garden with wildlife in mind, this next feature is the one that really sold me. Because, from spring through summer, coral honeysuckle produces masses of tubular flowers in fiery shades of coral, orange, and red... and hummingbirds absolutely adore it.

The blooms are perfectly shaped for hummingbirds to feed from, but they're also a magnet for butterflies, native bees, and other pollinators. Better still? The blooms are followed by red berries that can provide food for songbirds later in the season... so it's a super-plant that supports a thriving ecosystem and cools down our houses. Win!

Shop Watering Essentials & Keep Plants Hydrated in Hot Weather:

If you're considering planting coral honeysuckle (and you should, obviously!), it performs best in full sun to partial shade and will need a sturdy structure, like one of these beautiful trellis ideas, to climb. Pop it over a patio or near a window to maximize those cooling benefits.

After one too many afternoons sweating in front of an underperforming fan, I'm increasingly convinced that nature may have come up with the best air conditioning system after all.

If you are thinking about bringing a climbing perennial into your backyard, consider clematis. It’s a flowering vine with stunning flowers that is happy to climb up your trellis, fence, dead tree or any similar structure. Clematis needs only full sun and well-draining soil to blaze with brilliantly-colored blooms in your landscape.

But don’t confuse low-maintenance clematis care needs with no maintenance. You still need to do what’s necessary in every month of the year to keep your clematis vibrant and lovely each year. In June, as summer begins, clematis plants need a little help – but nothing too strenuous.

Here are the five most important tasks that need to be taken care of in June to ensure your clematis blooms beautifully year after year.

What to Do for Clematis in June

June is a busy time in the garden as the temperatures rise and everything starts growing. Fortunately, your clematis won’t need too much help this month. However, you’ll want to be sure to fit in these five core care tasks. It would be a shame to endanger those bright and beautiful clematis flowers by ignoring your plant’s needs. Here's what to do before July arrives.

1. Start a Watering Schedule

Even if you transplanted your clematis earlier this year, your plant should be established by June. That means it’s time to start an irrigation program that you can use all summer long. The twin goals of an appropriate watering schedule are giving the plant the moisture it needs and encouraging roots to push deeper.

Clematis is one of many plants that like their roots to be cool and their soil to be moist in June. Plants, especially vines, can dry out quickly as the temperatures rise. But that doesn’t mean that you should water them daily. Water clematis deeply once a week if it rains or twice a week in hotter, drier regions.

Watering your plant infrequently, yet deeply and slowly is best. It encourages clematis roots to grow deeper into the soil, which results in a more resilient plant in summer. Don’t forget that timing is important. The best time to water plants is first thing in the early morning. Use a drip irrigation kit like this one from Home Depot to give plants water at the roots, exactly where they need it most.

2. Add Mulch

Mulch is like a forcefield around your clematis roots. It holds the moisture in the soil even when the warm June sun turns into scorching July heat. Mulch also keeps the roots cool in hot weather and prevents weeds from growing (and sharing the limited moisture and nutrients in the soil). Last but not least, mulch prevents soil splash. That’s when rain falls on the soil and sprinkles some off it on the leaves, sometimes leading to diseases like clematis wilt.

What type of mulch should you use? The best choices are organic mulches, like this one from Back to the Roots, that are made from materials that will disintegrate into the soil and enrich it over time. Consider shredded leaves, pine needles, or bark. Keep the mulch away from the clematis stems to prevent rot.

3. Begin Fertilizing

Just like the summer irrigation program should start in June, it’s also the time to start using fertilizer to give your plant the nutrient boost it needs. Select a balanced fertilizer, like this organic option from Burpee, and use it regularly during the entire growing season. Plan to feed your clematis twice a month while it is actively putting on new shoots.

Appropriate fertilizer use helps the clematis grow and flower. It keeps the plant healthy and encourages the production of lots of buds and flowers. You might consider switching to a fertilizer with extra potassium once buds start to form. This supports a fuller, heavier display of flowers. This liquid bloom-boosting fertilizer from Espoma is a good choice.

4. Monitor for Pests & Diseases

Early summer is such a lovely time of year that it’s hard to remember it’s also the time when common clematis problems often appear. You’ll want to inspect your vines every few days to make sure that if problems arise, you catch them early.

Clematis wilt is a fungal disease that can take your plant from gorgeous to wilted almost overnight. It is more common in the species of clematis with large flowers. If you see symptoms – including spots on leaves or black stems – use sterilized pruners to cut out all of the affected areas back to healthy stems. Dispose of the diseased portions carefully. There are no chemicals or products that help this disease, but encouraging good airflow can help prevent fungal issues.

Aphids are another problem for clematis plants in June. Look for them on soft new shoots in June. Remember, they like to hang out in groups on the underside of the leaves. You can wash them off with the hose or buy live ladybugs on Amazon that will eat aphids.

5. Train New Shoots

Everyone needs support to get along, including your clematis. This plant needs a sturdy structure like a trellis to climb. Clematis are happiest when they grow vertically.

In June, there are plenty of fresh young clematis stems appearing. If summer winds happen to blow, the clematis stems can get tangled up and damaged if they aren’t linked to the support structure early enough.

During June, you need to watch for these young shoots. Train clematis vines so each one attaches to the support structure – whether a trellis or a porch railing – with velcro plant ties or garden twine, both of which you can find on Amazon. Investing a few minutes training stems in June will give you a strong, lush plant in July and August.

When wisteria is in full bloom, it stops people in their tracks. What happens in the months after is less dramatic, but probably more consequential. June sits right at the start of the long post-bloom stretch and your vine is already channeling energy into new growth.

That’s useful as long as it goes into the right places and a problem if it doesn't. Left alone through summer, wisteria can prioritize wood over flowers, which is a pattern that you may want to interrupt early. Keeping an eye on wisteria and tending to it now will set it up for success next spring. That’s why I compiled a list of the most pressing tasks to do to your wisteria in June.

Most of the tasks on this list take under an hour and don't require anything beyond the basic gardening tools. Good wisteria care during this time window is less about intervention and more about keeping the vine oriented toward what a gardener actually wants from it. Check these chores off your list now for reliable blooms every spring, not just sometimes.

What to Do With Wisteria in June

Doing the following tasks in June will set up your wisteria for success again next spring and the year after that. Proper care after blooming is vital to ensure lots of flowers next year. Here’s what to do.

1. Cut Back New Growth

By June, wisteria is putting out long, soft new shoots – sometimes several feet (up to 1 m or more) of growth in a few weeks. These are the whippy green stems extending well beyond the established framework of the vine. Left to run, they redirect energy away from the flowering spurs that produce blooms and instead go toward vegetative growth that mostly adds bulk.

Cutting them back to five or six leaves from the base of each new shoot refocuses the plant. It sounds drastic on a vine that's clearly thriving, but this is the summer prune that wisteria experts recommend. Skipping it will leave you with a spectacular vine that rarely flowers.

The timing in June is deliberate. Growth is active, but still young enough to cut cleanly. At this time, there's enough of the season left for the plant to respond by putting energy into next year's flower buds rather than more stems.

A sharp pair of bypass pruners from Home Depot makes cleaner cuts than anvil-style pruners on green wood, which matters when there's a lot of cutting to do. Prune wisteria again in late winter, cutting the same shoots back further to two or three buds. That two-cut approach is what keeps flowering wood close to the main framework.

2. Check & Adjust Supports

Wisteria gets heavy. An established vine carries a lot of wood and June is a good time to look at whatever it's growing on before the full weight of summer growth makes any problems harder to deal with. Wires that were tight two seasons ago may have worked loose.

A trellis that seemed solid can shift once the vine fills out. Any support that has moved or weakened is worth resetting now while the growth is still manageable rather than after it's thickened and set in place.

For vines grown against masonry or timber, check that wall anchors haven't pulled out and that the vine hasn't found its way behind gutters or under roof edges. Wisteria will push into gaps and pry them wider over time. That's not alarmist, just the reality of fast-growing wisteria.

Catching problems in June keeps the correction minor. Waiting until fall means cutting back mature growth to fix something structural, which means more work and a longer recovery.

3. Water Newly-Planted Vines

Established wisteria is drought-tolerant enough to ignore once it's been in the ground a few years. In the first and second seasons, though, June heat is a real stress factor. The root system hasn't spread far yet and a vine pushing out aggressive top growth during a dry stretch can run into trouble even faster than some other plants would.

Watering plants deeply each week is more useful than frequent shallow watering. The goal is moisture reaching down through the root zone rather than just wetting the top few inches (8-10 cm) of soil.

A soaker hose at the base is worth using, like this one from Walmart. Water goes straight to the roots rather than sitting on the foliage and wet leaves through warm June afternoons can bring on powdery mildew faster than expected.

For vines that have been in the ground several years, extra watering is usually unnecessary unless there's a real dry stretch going on. A mature wisteria being watered when it doesn't need it tends to respond with exactly the kind of soft leafy growth that the summer prune is meant to cut back.

4. Feed With Low-Nitrogen Fertilizer

Now is the time to fertilize wisteria. The exception is a plant that came out of spring looking weak or growing in poor soil. In that case, a low-nitrogen fertilizer with some phosphorus, like this one from Amazon, can help support root and bud development without pushing excess leafy growth. A formula that’s low in nitrogen and relatively higher in potassium is also a reasonable option, supporting overall plant health without encouraging the vine to overgrow.

Skip the fertilizer on anything growing in a healthy border or soil that gets regular soil amendments. A wisteria that blooms inconsistently is almost never short on nutrients. More often it's been fed too much nitrogen, isn't getting enough sun, or the pruning hasn't been strong enough. Reaching for a feed before working through that list tends to make the situation worse, not better.

5. Train New Growth

Anything left after the summer prune needs to go somewhere deliberate. Young wisteria stems redirect easily while they're still soft. Give them a week or two to harden up and the options narrow considerably without risking a snap. Getting in early means stems follow the framework rather than wandering off toward a neighboring shrub, over a fence line, or up into the eaves.

Soft plant ties or garden wire from Amazon work well for securing stems without cutting into them as they thicken. Avoid anything rigid or narrow that could girdle a stem over time.

Training wisteria vines in June, combined with the summer prune, is what separates a wisteria that grows on a gardener's terms from one that slowly takes over your garden.

Clematis has a reputation for being temperamental, but most of the difficulty comes down to timing. May is when these vines move fast – new growth can extend several inches in a week under good conditions – and the decisions made during this window, from pruning approach to feeding schedule, carry forward for months. Miss the window and the season might just feel like catch-up from there.

Good clematis care isn't complicated, but it is specific to the time of year. May brings a particular checklist – some tasks are preventative, some are corrective, and a few are just about paying attention before minor issues become bigger ones. Here's what's worth doing right now.

What to Do with Clematis in May

Most of these tasks take under an hour, and several can be done in a single pass through the garden.

1. Put Down the Shears and Check Your Pruning Group

Pruning clematis wrong is one of the faster ways to lose a season of blooms. Not all clematis get pruned the same way, and the difference matters. Some bloom on last year's wood and shouldn't be cut in spring at all. Others push blooms on new growth and want cutting right down. A third group does a bit of both and needs only a light tidy.

By May the vine usually makes it obvious – stems already loaded with buds mean hands off, while new growth pushing up from the base points to a harder cut. Unknown pruning group? Wait and see what the plant does before touching it.

2. Feed with a Balanced Fertilizer

May growth is hungry growth. A clematis pushing out new vines and building toward bloom is drawing heavily on whatever is available in the soil, and a garden that's been planted in the same spot for a few years may not have much left to offer.

A slow-release granular fertilizer like this from Amazon worked into the soil around the base – kept away from the stem itself – gives the plant something to pull from over the coming weeks.

For gardeners who prefer liquid feeding, a balanced liquid fertilizer from Amazon applied every two to three weeks through the growing season can fill the gap without overloading the root zone in one shot.

3. Train and Tie New Growth

Unlike some vines that grip surfaces directly, clematis wraps its leaf stalks around whatever is close by – meaning anything too thick to grab just gets skipped over. New stems left to wander in May tend to tangle badly by June, and untangling them without snapping anything is a real project.

Soft garden twine or ties like these from Amazon work well for redirecting stems early; plant ties come in a range of widths and hold stems without cutting in as they thicken. Tying to a plant support every week or so during peak growth season keeps the structure looking intentional rather than accidental.

4. Mulch the Root Zone

There's an old saying about clematis wanting its feet in the shade and its head in the sun, and the feet part is worth taking seriously. Clematis roots sit close to the surface and don't have a lot of tolerance for heat or extended dry spells, and May is when ground temperatures start moving up.

A 2–3 inch (5–8cm) layer of mulch pulled back a few inches from the stem helps a lot: moisture stays more even, soil doesn't cook, and the crown still gets the airflow it needs. Shredded bark or wood chip both do the job fine.

5. Scout for Clematis Wilt

Clematis wilt, often caused by Ascochyta clematidina, doesn't announce itself – a stem can look completely healthy in the morning and be collapsed and black by afternoon. It's fungal, and the mild days and cool nights of May happen to be pretty good conditions for it.

What most gardeners don't realize until it happens: wilt almost never kills the plant. It hits the above-ground growth hard, but the root system usually comes through intact, and new shoots push up once the damaged stems are cut back to clean tissue.

Cut out anything affected, get it in the trash rather than the compost pile, and move on. A copper-based fungicide from Walmart can help as a preventative if wilt has been a recurring problem in previous years.

6. Water Consistently While the Plant Establishes

A clematis in its first or second year hasn't built out enough of a root system to hunt down moisture on its own. Dry stretches that a settled vine shrugs off can stress a young plant pretty hard, and repeated wilting early on sets things back in ways that don't always show up until later.

Roughly an inch (2.5cm) of water weekly is a reasonable starting point – more when it gets warm. A soaker hose or drip line like this one from Amazon delivers it at root level and keeps the foliage dry, which matters because wet leaves on a plant already prone to fungal issues is a combination worth avoiding.

The first time I saw a clematis vine, I thought it was fake - until I touched it. The flowers were huge as dinner plates, a flashy shade of purple, and extremely showy. Given the impressive and elegant flowers and the vine’s multigenerational life span, it’s really not surprising that clematis is called the “queen of the vines.”

Growing clematis will add a sense of the spectacular to any garden in its range, USDA zones 4-9. Large flower vines can grow to 20 feet (6.5m) long and entirely cover a structure or trellis. With over 300 species in this genus, you will have many different choices in terms of size and flower color, as well as bloom time. Some clematis vines bloom in spring, some in summer or fall, and some flower multiple times.

April clematis care depends in part on what type of clematis you have. We’ll explain the differences as we describe the care.

1. Start Watering

Clematis goes dormant in winter and ceases to grow. As April rolls out the red carpet for spring, the Queen of the Vines starts growing again. It needs water for healthy growth.

How can you tell if your clematis needs water in April? It’s easy, and the same for all species of clematis. To figure out whether the vine needs water, just poke a finger into the soil around the plant up to the first knuckle. If the top inch is dry, the vine needs water.

Like so many plants, clematis needs regular water. It grows best when the soil around its roots is moist. Don’t mistake moist for waterlogged. Wet soil will kill the plant faster than you think, rotting out the roots. But dry soil is a big no-no as well. The vine cannot uptake water and nutrients in dry soil, and its roots cannot grow.

If your plant’s top inch of soil is dry in April, deep water the plant so that the water sinks into the soil. This supports the new spurt of growth that is about to arrive. If the plant is new to your garden, water twice or three times a week. Otherwise, for established plants, provide 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week if a good rain doesn’t take care of it.

2. Pile on the Mulch

Keeping the soil most between waterings provides consistent hydration to your vine, allowing it to shoot up and flower profusely. But the sun and wind can dry out the soil quickly. April is the perfect time to bring in the big guns in the form of mulch. Mulch not only prevents the moisture in the soil from evaporating, but it also keeps weeds down and creates a healthy environment for your plant’s roots.

I like to use organic compost for mulch, but there are many other choices. Both wood chips and shredded leaves can be organic and both work well for this vine in April, keeping the soil moist and the roots cool. Just apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant without allowing it to touch the vine. Above all, do not form a pyramid with the mulch around the stem.

April Clematis Essentials

3. Support Your Vine

Yes, you can go out and cheer your clematis’s growth if you like, but that’s not what we mean by clematis support. These vines like to grow on a support structure, like a trellis, a fence, or a post, which allows its pollinator fans (hummers, bees, and butterflies) easy access to the flowers. And it’s in your interests to give the clematis the structure it wants, since without something to climb, the long vine will create a sprawling mess across the ground.

In April you can provide a structure, or, if one is already in place, repair or replace it. For new-to-the-world plants, a simple stake is sufficient for initial support. But over time, change this out for a trellis, arbor or fence since these climbing plants need something to grow on.

4. Get Pruning... Unless!

It’s easy enough to advise pruning a clematis vine in order to promote flowering. It’s a bit more difficult to be specific, as the three different kinds of clematis each have their own pruning rules. The first job is to determine which kind you have. Here are the three types of clematis:

• Woody-stemmed plants that bloom in early spring on the prior year’s stems.
• Double flowering clematis that bloom first in late spring on prior wood and again in fall on new wood.
• Vines with large, showy flowers that abloom both in summer and fall on current growth.

Of these three groups, only the latter should be pruned in April. The first two groups of clematis (woody-stemmed and double-flowering) should only be pruned to remove deadwood after the vine flowers and the blooms fade.

The third group should be pruned back severely in April if you didn’t do so in late winter. And we mean severely. Take off the entire vine, leaving only two pairs of buds on each stem.

5. Fertilize

Clematis vines benefit from a feeding in April. Use either a top-quality fertilizer for roses like this one from Amazon. Be sure the product contains all three essential nutrients. Nitrogen helps with growth but clematis needs both phosphorus and potassium to encourage blooming. Continue fertilizing the vine every month until fall arrives in September.

Clematis are fabulous plants to have in your garden, adding vibrant vertical accents and another layer of color. There are so many fun ways to use these vining clematis beauties, too, aside from growing them up a trellis or wall. Pick the best clematis vine and you can let the stems scramble through a shrub, tree or hedge, adding petals to foliage or another season of blooms to a winter flowerer. Some clever cultivars can be grown horizontally as well, so you can allow their stems to potter through a border for a wonderfully whimsical vibe.

There are scented clematis that will add beautiful fragrance to a backyard, clematis vines that attract hummingbirds, and clematis that bring amazing fall color, too.

While it’s true that some clematis are invasive, there are plenty more that are perfectly well-behaved. You simply have to choose the right variety for the job you want it to do, whether that’s to deliver an abundant but compact display of show-off flowers in a patio pot or a quickly disguise an ugly shed with a riot of ruffled petals.

Don’t worry about pruning, either. All these varieties are very easy to prune, and some don’t even need pruning much at all! Which clematis vine is right for your garden?

1. Best Clematis For a Pot

A fairly recent introduction, Clematis Diamantina is simply fabulous in a patio pot. For a start, its violet-blue blooms grow up to 6 inches across in a glorious pompom of petals, and each flower lasts for an incredible four weeks. It flowers prolifically in May–June, then has a second flush in September–October. The plant is compact, growing to around six feet, and – highly unusual for a clematis – extremely happy in a pot. Just give it a container that’s at least 16 inches wide and deep. It only needs light pruning, too, with a tidy-up in early spring and again after its first flush of flowers. Zones 4–9.

2. Best Clematis for Months of Fragrance

Flowering for longer than most other clematis cultivars, Clematis ‘Sweet Summer Love’ brings hundreds of small, red-purple sweetly-scented flowers through summer and fall. The floral perfume is wonderfully layered with spicy clove-like hints and warm vanilla undertones, so this vine is a lovely addition to a patio. It’s vigorous and easy to grow, capable of reaching 10 feet high and wide, but as this clematis flowers on new growth, it’s best to cut stems back to a foot above the ground in early spring each year, which also controls its size. Zones 4–9.

3. Best Clematis for Red Color That Attracts Hummingbirds

True red clematis are very rare, but fairly recently bred cultivar Clematis 'Rebecca' boasts fabulous crimson tones. The color of its rich hue varies, usually opening in velvety plum-red tones then turning a punchier crimson. The more sun it gets, the brighter the red is, too, so depending on what weather we get, the color can change from year to year. It blooms from June to September, when hummingbirds and pollinators won’t fail to notice its spectacular color. Clematis 'Rebecca' only reaches 6–8 feet high and 3–4 feet wide so all it needs is a light trim in early spring. Zones 4–8.

4. Best Clematis to Plant in a Border

Clematis ‘Rooguchi’ is an exciting clematis introduced from Japan and it’s not a climber! This non-clinging vine – technically a subshrub – doesn’t have tendrils so rather than grow it upwards, you can leave it to scamper around other plants in a border for a beautiful, whimsical effect. Its violet-blue bell-shaped flowers grow on sturdy stems (this cultivar was originally bred for the cut flower industry) from midsummer to fall. The plant can reach around 6 feet by 3 feet, which is about the right size for an average border, and you simply cut it back to 8 inches in spring. Zones 4–8.

5. Best Clematis for a Beginner Gardener

Proven Winners call this Clematis 'Zojapur' cultivar ‘Happy Jack’ and it certainly lives up to its name, flowering abundantly all through summer with minimal care, bringing big, velvety purple flowers that fade to blue and deciduous dark green foliage. The plant is quick to establish and robust, and although it grows quickly, the stems only reach an ultimate size of 8 feet high and 3 feet wide. Apart from tying in the stems, your only job is to chop the lot down to 8 inches from the ground in early spring and sprinkle on some slow-release fertilizer to enjoy another year of blooms. Zones 5–9.

6. Best Clematis for a Plantsperson

The handsome creamy white flowers of Clematis ‘Henryi’ can grow to 8 inches across, and the anthers are a warm chocolate brown, making this one of the most elegant clematis to grow in your garden. Dark green deciduous foliage makes the light blooms seem almost luminous, too. It flowers from May to June on old wood so only needs a tidy-up in early spring, snipping stem tips to the uppermost pair of strong buds. It can grow to 15 feet high and 3 feet wide though, so to control its size, give stems a second prune to 3–5 feet high once flowers have faded – this also encourages a second flush of blooms in late summer. If you’re looking for a present for a gardener friend, this is a perfect choice. Zones 4–9.

7. Best Clematis to Scramble up a Tree or Shrub

Clematis ‘Sarah Elizabeth’ is part of the recently introduced Boulevard series and has been bred to stay a manageable size, growing to around 5 feet. This makes it a fabulous option to grow up through a shrub or small tree as it won’t overwhelm the supporting plant, unlike more vigorous varieties. Its pruning requirements are perfect, too, as it's cut to 8 inches from the ground in early spring, so its host plant never gets tangled in old stems. Clematis 'Sarah Elizabeth' blooms from late spring to early fall so you can use it to give winter-flowering shrubs a second season of interest with these pretty soft pink petals. Just plant it 1½ feet from the shrub or tree base so it doesn’t have to compete for nutrients, and guide stems towards the host plant. Zones 4–9.

8. Best Clematis for a North-Facing Wall

Most clematis vines prefer plenty of sunshine and are best suited to south- or west-facing spots but Clematis ‘Nelly Moser’ is far happier in partial shade so it’s a great choice for a north-facing wall. Indeed, its fabulous pyjama-stripe pink and white flowers can fade in strong sunshine. It still needs a little sun but as long as your wall isn’t in deep shade throughout the day, ‘Nelly Moser’ will be fine, and it can reach 12 feet high and 4 feet wide. Tidy up in spring, trimming the stem tips to a pair of healthy buds, then reduce some stems directly after flowering to control size.

9. Best Clematis for Fall Color

We often think of clematis as summer bloomers but there are varieties that will bring flowers to your backyard in every month of the year. Clematis ‘Ernest Markham’ does flower in summer, but it carries on blooming into October, when its magenta-pink tones are a vibrant addition to orange fall color. The flowers are big, too, growing up to 6 inches across, and the vine can grow to 15 feet high, so you get plenty of them. Chop the lot back to 8 inches above the ground in early spring for a repeat performance every year. Zones 4–8.

10. Best Clematis for a Lazy Gardener

If you can’t be bothered with the faff of hard-pruning clematis then tying in new shoots each year, Clematis ‘Piilu’ is for you. It doesn’t need much pruning at all – just snip off faded blooms, and give it a tidy-up in spring to get rid of any dead stems. Your minimal efforts will be richly rewarded with two flushes of 3-inch flowers. The first burst, in late spring, typically brings double flowers with lots of petals, while the second in late summer has single blooms with fewer petals. Zones 4–9.

The Tricks to Growing Clematis Successfully

Clematis evolved in open woodland where they scrambled up through the tree canopy to get to the sunshine. So the secret to success with clematis care is simply to replicate the plant's natural needs.

While most clematis need a sunny spot with at least six hours of sunshine a day, they like to have cool roots as if they were shaded beneath a layer of woodland shrubs. That’s easy to achieve: put a layer of pebbles on the ground around your plant, or push a slate at an angle into the soil to create a patch of shade.

Another option is to position your clematis where its base will be shaded by another shrub.

Because of the rich conditions created by all the leaf fall in a woodland, clematis like a fairly rich, moist but well-drained soil. So, when you plant, mix soil improver or well-rotted manure into the soil. A good trick is to mix this organic matter into the soil beneath the spot your clematis will grow, rather than in the area all around it, to encourage the roots to grow downwards, further helping to keep them cool.

While many folk grow clematis up a wall or fence, it’s important to plant it at least a foot away – preferably two – from that structure. That’s because the soil up against that boundary is often very dry as it’s sheltered from rainfall.

One last tip for lots more flowers is to plant your new clematis 2–3 inches deeper than the soil surface in the pot. That will encourage the plant to throw out plenty of new stems from the base, for triple the blooms.

March is the sweet spot for cutting back most flowering vines—late enough that the worst cold is behind you, early enough that new growth hasn’t committed yet. Get this timing right and you set up a stronger, better-shaped bloom season from the start.

Flowering vines are some of the most forgiving plants in the garden when it comes to pruning—until it’s at the wrong time. Cut a spring bloomer in early March and you’ve just removed every flower bud it set last fall. Cut a summer bloomer too late and you’re chasing growth that’s already underway, which weakens the plant and reduces bloom output for the whole season. The difference between a vine that covers a fence in flowers and one that just covers a fence often comes down to whether it got cut at the right moment.

Not all flowering vines follow the same schedule, which is where a lot of the confusion comes in. The ones below all have March in common but for different reasons, and with different techniques. A few need to be cut back hard. Others just want some cleanup and shaping. Knowing which is which makes the whole job faster and the results significantly better.

1. Clematis (Group 3)

Late-blooming clematis—Group 3, the ones that flower midsummer and later on new wood—get cut back hard right now. Prune your clematis all the way down to about 12 inches (30 cm) from the ground, just above a healthy pair of buds. It looks severe when you’re done, but these varieties typically perform better for it. Old tangled wood left in place just pushes weak, sparse flowering from the top of a mess.

Before you cut anything, though, figure out which type of clematis plant you have. Group 3 gets the hard cut, Group 2 gets light cleanup, Group 1 gets left alone in spring entirely. Look it up if you’re not sure. Getting that wrong is the one mistake that actually costs you a season. A clean pair of Fiskars bypass pruners, available from Amazon, makes clean cuts that heal faster than the crushing action of anvil-style blades.

2. Trumpet Vine

Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) will take over if you let it, and March is about the last moment you can get ahead of it before it starts making its own decisions. Cut back hard—a third to two-thirds of the total growth, depending on how out of hand things got last year. Flowers come on new wood this season, so there’s nothing to lose bloom-wise.

If anything, a harder cut concentrates the plant’s energy and actually improves flowering. What you’re really managing here is structure. Trumpet vine is heavy, spreads by underground runners, and will usually pull down a weak support over time. This isn’t a cosmetic trim—it’s containment.

3. Wisteria

Twice a year is the ideal for wisteria—once right after it blooms in summer, and again now. The March cut is all about those long whippy shoots from last summer, which come back to two or three buds from the main framework. Those short spurs are where the flower clusters actually develop, so the more you’ve defined them, the better the show.

People tend to go too easy on wisteria and then wonder why it’s all foliage and no flowers—that’s almost always a pruning problem. Cut harder than feels comfortable. If a wisteria has never bloomed well for you, that plus switching to a low-nitrogen feed is usually all it takes.

4. Passionflower Vine

Passionflower vine (Passiflora spp.) dies back to varying degrees over winter depending on your climate, and March is the right time to assess the damage and cut accordingly. In warmer zones it may have held some woody structure through winter; in colder ones it might look completely dead right to the base.

Either way, prune passionflower back to wherever the wood is actually alive—scratch a stem with your fingernail and look for green. Brown all the way through means it’s gone; green means stop there. Once the dead material is off, take the remaining live stems back by roughly a third to push branching and a denser flush of new growth. Passionflower moves fast once temperatures pick up—what looks like almost nothing in March tends to be completely unrecognizable by June.

5. Chocolate Vine

Chocolate vine (Akebia quinata) earns its place but needs a real edit every spring or it turns into a wall of old wood pretty fast. By March it’s usually carrying a tangle of stems that genuinely did nothing last year—cut those out at the base entirely. Then thin what’s left so air actually moves through it; congested growth is how disease gets started.

One thing to watch: the flowers come on old wood in early spring, so if you can see buds already forming on a stem, leave it alone. Take the dead and crossing wood, spare the budded stuff, and you’ll get flowers now and a cleaner plant going forward.

6. Virginia Creeper

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a fast grower that’ll swallow a structure if it doesn’t get cut back before the season starts. It’s grown mostly for fall color, but the small late-spring flowers it produces lead to berries that birds rely on through winter, which earns it a spot here.

Cut back hard to whatever size and shape fits the space, removing any stems heading somewhere you don’t want them. The adhesive pads it uses to attach to surfaces don’t release voluntarily, so getting ahead of the spread now is much easier than trying to remove it from a wall or soffit later. Use a sturdy pair of loppers for thicker stems like Fiskars PowerGear loppers from Amazon to handle woody growth without straining your hands.

Pruning these flowering vines in March is the best way to get great blooms and also keep the vines tidy and only where you want them!

Shop Pruning Essentials

Though vines may grow fast, fertilizing bougainvillea improperly will produce lots of leaves instead of tons of colorful bracts. Smart feeding shifts energy into bracts, stretching the blooming season longer and turning scattered flowers into heavy, bright displays that last for months.

Bougainvillea is beloved for its colorful blooms, yet plenty of vines end up more green than bright and boldly colored. Without enough of the right bougainvillea fertilizer, your plant will still grow, climb, and fill space in your garden fast, but the bracts may be few and short-lived. That usually leads to long stretches of nothing, a quick flash of color, then back to plain foliage again.

Proper bougainvillea care plays into this more than most people expect, especially once vines mature. Water, sun, and pruning matter, but fertilizing bougainvillea the right way often decides whether flowers keep blooming. Let’s dig into all the details you need to know in order to feed your vines so they are bursting with blooms all summer long.

Do You Have to Fertilize Bougainvillea?

Bougainvillea vines can survive without fertilizer and still grow pretty aggressively, especially in warm climates where this plant is basically a weed. The problem is that plants in survival mode usually grow lots of leaf-covered vines with only scattered blooms that show up when conditions are just right.

Fertilizing plants encourages them into flowering mode instead of just growth mode. Properly fertilized bougainvillea vines recover faster after pruning, branch out more, and send out more new flowering tips.

Potted bougainvillea vines benefit the most since potting mix in containers doesn’t hold nutrients very long and gets flushed out every time you water.

Best Fertilizer for Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea doesn’t need heavy nitrogen, especially if more flowers is your goal. Too much nitrogen encourages fast, floppy foliage growth and not much else. Flowering can stall for weeks. NPK ratios around 5-10-10 or even 10-10-10 tend to keep growth and blooming going without tipping the plant into full-on foliage growth mode.

Slow-release granular fertilizers work fine for plants in the ground since they release nutrients over time, but fertilizing container plants is different. Potted plants usually respond better to water-soluble liquid fertilizers that you can quickly adjust as the season shifts. A bloom-focused fertilizer, like this one from Amazon, boosts flowering instead of nonstop leafy growth.

Organic vs. Synthetic

As when fertilizing any plant, when fertilizing bougainvillea vines you have to choose between organic versus synthetic fertilizers. Let’s look at the differences between these two main types, plus the pros and cons of each.

• Organic Fertilizers: Organic fertilizers take longer to show results, but they’re harder to mess up, which helps with salt buildup. This is especially true in pots. Fish emulsion, like this one from Amazon, and compost-based products still work. They just need to be applied a little more often to keep up. They also help build soil structure over time and encourage beneficial microbial activity, which indirectly supports healthier blooms and stronger stems.
• Synthetic Fertilizers: Synthetic fertilizers, like this one from Amazon, act faster than organic options. That is useful when flowering suddenly drops off. But the flip side is that mistakes show up quicker, too, particularly during hot summer stretches. Some synthetic fertilizers include extra magnesium or trace elements which can correct subtle nutrient deficiencies that slow bract color or leaf strength.

Best Time to Fertilize Bougainvillea

You should start fertilizing bougainvillea once spring growth is underway, but not before. When buds swell and fresh leaves start emerging, the plant is ready to use the fertilizer you give it. Fertilizing plants in spring during this time supports branch growth that later carries most of the season’s color.

Towards late summer, taper off feeding so growth can firm up for winter instead of staying soft. One light feeding in early fall can help with overall strength, but heavy fertilizer application that late usually cuts into the next bloom cycle rather than helps it. After that, the plant shifts toward rest as you prepare to overwinter your bougainvillea. Stop feeding until growth picks up again in spring.

How Often to Fertilize Bougainvillea

When determining how best to fertilize a bougainvillea plant through the main growing season, another important consideration is how often you should feed plants. Feeding every four to six weeks usually keeps in-ground plants steady.

Container plants burn through nutrients faster, so every two to three weeks makes more sense for them. If growth suddenly looks soft or oversized, you are probably feeding too often or giving plants too much nitrogen. Cut back on feeding if you notice this.

Common Fertilizing Mistakes

Overfeeding is one of the easiest fertilizing mistakes to make. But more fertilizer doesn’t mean more color with bougainvillea. It often means just the opposite. Salt buildup from too much feeding also damages roots, especially in containers where runoff has nowhere to go.

Fertilizing stressed plants causes problems, too. Drought, pest pressure, or recent transplanting all limit how well roots can absorb nutrients. Feeding during those times just stresses plants instead of helping them. Newly-planted or transplanted bougainvillea shouldn’t be fertilized for at least six to eight weeks so the roots can settle in before new top growth begins.

Dreaming of a waterfall of pretty wisteria blooms cascading over your pergola come May? Winter is the time to take these five easy steps that will turn your dream into reality. Wisteria is a vigorous plant, and a pre-growing-season prune will ensure it puts all its energy into forming glorious flowers rather than lots of long, leafy stems. It'll also help control the size and shape, and keep the plant healthy.

When's the Right Moment to Prune?

In winter, wisteria is not only dormant but leafless, so you can easily see its structure, which makes it simple to work out which stems to snip off. The right time to prune is just before the plant’s buds begin to swell – and certainly before they open – in January or February, depending on your USDA zone.

What Shape Do You Want?

You can train wisteria into any shape you want with regular pruning. A handy tip is to think of your wisteria as a tree with a trunk, some main branches and lots of twiggy stems. It doesn't need to be a tangled mess – although this vine will happily grow into one if you leave it to its own devices! Be confident, and create a strong framework in whatever shape you'd like, to show off its fabulous flowers.

You may want your 'tree' to have one main trunk. If you're training your plant up and over a pergola, this 'trunk' might be quite tall; if the wisteria is on a house wall, it may be much shorter. Or would you prefer your wisteria to be more like a multi-stem tree, with numerous 'trunks', perhaps trained into a fan or espalier shape?

While your plant is young, you'll want to build the framework of this ‘tree’, choosing which of last year’s growth you want to keep to add to its main structural frame. Leave this unpruned, or shorten it only to the length you need. With the rest of the plant, however, and if your wisteria is more established, it's time to be brutal to keep this fast-growing beast under control.

How to Winter-Prune a Wisteria

1. Deal With Last Year’s Growth

Your first step is to cut back all of last year’s growth to two or three buds above the older, woodier main stems. This not only gets rid of any excess length, but the short spurs will yield more flowers. Clearing this recent growth also means the blooms won’t be hidden behind a forest of foliage.

As you prune, keep the overall skeleton of the wisteria in mind. New growth will typically be in the direction the last bud faces, so by choosing which bud to cut above, you can avoid congestion, fill any gaps or encourage your plant into a wider shape or shift to the left or right.

Make sure you cut just above a bud – around 3mm is good – rather than leaving a stub of stem above it. This stem-end will die and could carry disease into the plant. Make angled cuts, as this will help prevent water settling on the stem ends.

2. Remove Damaged Sections

You’ll likely come across a few dead or diseased stems, or sections that have been damaged by winter storms. Snip these right back to the main branches or trunk, making a cut that’s flush with the older stem.

If you’re not sure if a stem is dead or not, lightly scratch its surface with one of the pruner blades: if you see any green, it’s still alive.

3. Take Out Unwanted Stems

Now take a step back and look at the whole plant. Are there any unwanted stems? You might need to thin a congested area, remove a stem that’s crossing another and is likely to rub and cause damage, or remove some outer growth if you want to keep your wisteria compact. Aim to create an airy framework.

It’s fine to shorten older stems as long as you cut just above a younger shoot. If you want to take out a whole stem, cut it off flush with the branch or trunk, or at ground level. Don’t overdo it, though. If the plant hasn’t been pruned in a few years, or you want to remove thick, woody stems, it’s best to gradually reshape your wisteria over a few years.

4. Tidy the Base

Look for any suckers coming out of the ground around the wisteria’s base, and cut these off at ground level. Many wisteria are grown on grafted rootstock, so these stems could be a different plant altogether!

It’s a good idea to remove any branching stems from the first foot or two of the main trunk, or trunks, as these are unlikely to be flowering stems.

5. Check Ties

Before you finish, check existing ties are still strong, and tie in any unattached stems to the support. Velcro ties like these One-Wrap Garden Ties from Amazon are a great choice for wisteria as they're easily adjusted as stems thicken.

What Tools Do I Need?

A quality pair of hand pruners, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, is a must. It’s vital that they’re sharp, as clean cuts are far less prone to disease. If you’re in any doubt, a tool such as this Coroner Blade Sharpener from Amazon is a wise buy to give your pruners some TLC.

If your wisteria is a fairly young plant, or has been regularly pruned, then you’re all set. However, if you’re tackling a wisteria that hasn’t been pruned in a few years, or you want to reshape the plant, you’ll need to bring in the heavy crew. Old wisteria stems are woody and can be tough to cut, so a pair of assisted action pruners like these Ratchet Pruning Shears from Amazon will boost your cutting power. For really thick stems, and for getting into awkward spots if stems are tangled, a pruning hand saw such as this Fiskars Hand Saw from Amazon is a better choice.

If your wisteria is trained above head height, then these Long Reach Cut & Hold Pruners from Amazon will cut stems up to half an inch wide, or reach for a sturdy step ladder such as this Foldable 4 Step Ladder with Handrail from Amazon.

A tarp with handles like this Heavy Duty Tarp from Amazon makes clear-up quick.

When Should I Prune Again?

It’s best to prune your wisteria twice a year, every year. Every January or February, carry out this shaping prune. Then in August, it’s a smart move to do a second, less severe, prune. All you need do in late summer is cut all the long, whippy new growth back to five or six buds. This keeps the plant tidy over winter, and makes your primary winter prune much easier.

Evergreen climbers suitable for year-round coverage should have some cold hardiness. Exactly how cold hardy the need to be depends on your growing zone, so always check. Our ideas for evergreen vines and climbing plants will help you create a privacy screen fast.

Use these evergreen vines to cover an unsightly wall or fence, to soften up a concrete patio, or to actually provide year-round privacy. Most need some type of support to climb, but will then readily cover a trellis, fence, or wall.

Why Choose Cold-Hardy Evergreen Vines for Privacy

Evergreen vines and climbing plants make unique and unexpected choices for privacy. Many people use hedges, both deciduous and evergreen, to create privacy screens, but vines or climbing plants offer certain benefits.

Not every homeowner or gardener has the space for a hedge. Shrubs and small trees are great for privacy, but vines can do the same job in less space. They have a smaller footprint at ground level, but still grow upward to create a screen. You can grow many of these plants in a small space at the base of a fence or trellis or even in containers on a porch or balcony. This spool of plant twist ties from Amazon is perfect for training plants exactly where you want them to go.

Another benefit of climbing plants over hedges is growth rate. Most vines grow much faster and can help you create a privacy screen in as little as one season. Of course, the benefit of a cold-hardy evergreen plant is that you get year-round coverage, even in colder climates.

8 Cold-Hardy Evergreen Climbing Vines

These cold-hardy climbing vines are proven winners that provide year-round beauty and good coverage for privacy. Take care, though, because some of these plants are invasive in certain areas. Check with your local extension office before planting.

1. Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. Petiolaris)

Most hydrangeas that gardeners are familiar with are shrubs or small trees, but there is a climbing type, too. It is hardy in zones 4 through 8 and is native to Asia. As with other hydrangeas, the flowers are showy. Climbing hydrangea can grow up to 50 feet (15 m) tall, so save it for the big areas you want to cover.

2. Ivy (Hedera helix)

English ivy is one of the easiest plants to grow, but this can also make it a problem. Ivy grows aggressively up nearly any vertical surface. This can be great if you’re looking for a fast-growing, evergreen to cover a trellis, arbor, or wall. Just take care that you don’t let it grow in natural areas where it will act like an invasive plant. You can grow this evergreen vine in zones 4 through 9.

3. Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides)

Star jasmine is not true jasmine, but it is a beautiful evergreen vine in zones 7 through 10. Make sure you have a support for this vine, or it will grow as a groundcover if not given something sturdy to climb. Star jasmine blooms most prolifically with fragrant white flowers in a spot that gets full sun.

4. Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflora)

Winter jasmine is a shrubby vine that will grow low to the ground or climb if given a structure. It is suitable for zones 6 through 10, where it will reward you with very early spring flowers in a cheerful shade of yellow. Make sure you give winter jasmine plenty of sunlight for the best results.

5. Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)

Also known as climbing euonymus, wintercreeper can be grown as a groundcover or a climbing shrub. It’s versatile and easy to grow in a variety of conditions, providing evergreen coverage year-round in zones 4 through 9. Just be aware that this plant is toxic to people and animals.

6. Armand Clematis (Clematis armandii)

Armand clematis is an evergreen with leathery, dark green leaves and white, star-shaped flowers that bloom in late winter or very early spring. This clematis variety grows and climbs very fast, becoming 25-plus feet (8 meters) high in no time. Good for zones 7 through 9, Armand clematis can grow in sun or partial shade.

7. Firethorn (Pyracantha)

Most gardeners would call firethorn a shrub, but it can also act like a climber. Grow it near a vertical support, and you can train the long, arching branches to climb. Firethorn is hardy and evergreen in zones 6 through 9. It has small white flowers but even more stunning orange fruits. Grow firethorn in full sun or partial shade.

8. Evergreen Honeysuckle (Lonicera henryi)

Also known as Henry’s honeysuckle, this evergreen vine grows in zones 5 through 9, providing some of the best cold hardiness of any plant on this list. It produces fragrant flowers that attract pollinators and provides a dense, attractive, evergreen screen all year.

Growing Tips

For the best results, determine the conditions an evergreen vine needs before choosing it, and be sure you can match those conditions. In general, they should be planted in spring or fall, not in summer when the weather is more likely to be hot and dry. Some vines need full sun, while others grow better in some shade, but almost all will need soil that drains well.

Plant your vines near some type of support structure. Some, like ivy, can climb a brick wall without assistance. They put out little shoots that grab onto rough, hard surfaces. Many vines, though, can benefit from something like a trellis. This one from Amazon is simple and beautiful.

Water your new plant regularly as it establishes strong roots. After the first year of growth, you can reduce watering to as needed. Plants grown in pots need to be watered more frequently. Apply fertilizer in spring or more often if it is a heavy feeder. This plant food from Nelson on Amazon is made specifically for flowering vines.

Design Tips

How you design your privacy screen depends largely on the space you have available and how much privacy you’re trying to create. If you are working with a small space like a balcony or patio, use containers and the structure itself as the support for the vines.

For a larger area, you’ll need to determine where your privacy screen should go and what to use for the support structure. A fence is a great built-in support, but if you’re creating privacy out of nothing, you’ll need a trellis. The look of the trellis doesn’t matter too much, since it will get covered with the vine, but it should be sturdy and firmly placed in the ground so it can take the weight of the vines.

Don’t be afraid to get creative with your design. Upcycle materials, like shipping pallets or old ladders, to use as supports. Place small shrubs or flowering perennials in between the vines for a more varied privacy screen. Just make a plan before you get started to save on time, money, and other resources.

When it comes to vines, sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora) has it all. It grows fast, climbs fences and walls, and offers masses of small, white, starry blossoms – so many that it’s hard to spot the leathery leaves beneath. Blossoms also attract pollinators, like bees and butterflies. These beautiful flowers can fill an entire wall and the sweet smell will fill your garden.

The good news is that sweet autumn clematis care is not difficult to grow, but it pays to use a bit of caution with this plant. Despite all of its wonderful benefits and beauty, this vine can cause big problems for gardeners and ecosystems if you plant it in the wrong place. Sweet autumn clematis is considered an invasive vine in many states in the eastern half of the United States.

Always check to see if non-native species are problematic to grow in your area before planting them. If you live in a locale where sweet autumn clematis is considered safe to grow, follow the guidelines below for beautiful blooming vines. Plus, I'll share tips to contain the growth of this potentially aggressive plant.

Sweet Autumn Clematis Care

Sweet autumn clematis is about as far from a picky plant as one can get. It thrives in USDA growing zones 4-9, and shoots up a few feet every year, growing to 30 feet (10 m) tall. Established plants can grow as much as 10 feet (3 m) a year.

These are twining vines. They twist their stems and leaf stalks around a support to climb it. Give sweet autumn clematis something to hold onto, like this lovely white arbor from Amazon.

Sweet autumn clematis is happy in full sun, but also in partial shade and tolerates any well-drained soil. Just as most flowers are waning in late summer and fall, the sweet autumn clematis vine lights up the garden with its abundant blossoms.

Planting

Keep in mind the mature size of this vine. It will become massive and the time to put a support structure in place is before planting. A wall or fence works well, but so will a strong trellis or even a lamp post.

Sweet autumn clematis prefers having its head in the sun and its roots in the shade. For the best results, select a planting site with at least 6 hours of sun a day, if possible, and make sure that the soil drains well. Install other garden plants at its base to provide shade to the roots. Mulching works, too.

Watering & Fertilizing

It will come as no surprise that even an easy-care vine like the sweet autumn clematis requires water. It needs about an inch (2.5 cm) a week during the growing season. You can keep the soil moist and the roots cool by applying an organic mulch, like this one from Amazon, around the base all growing season.

It is not necessary to irrigate during dormancy, nor should you fertilize your clematis after the leaves fall. Instead, in the spring apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer, like this 4-10-10 formula you can get on Amazon. Repeat the application every few weeks through July.

Pruning

When it comes to sweet autumn clematis, maintenance is pretty much limited to pruning. But sweet autumn clematis is a big vine, so pruning it is a big job.

You need to prune your clematis to build strong growth and encourage abundant blooming. It’s also useful to balance out the shape of the plant. And pruning can also put the brakes on the invasive spread of this plant.

Pick up the pruners just after the flowers fade. Time the pruning so that it is after the flowering, but before the vine sets seed and prevents self-sowing. It’s also possible and popular to cut back the vine to a few feet above the ground every winter. This can lead to a growth spurt in spring and a profusion of flowers.

If you pass on pruning, your beautiful flowering vine may not look as beautiful the next year. Some vines end up a tangle of stems with bare stems at the bottom and flowers starting well up the plant.

Problems & Potential Issues

Sweet autumn clematis plants are susceptible to a fungal disease called clematis wilt. This includes sweet autumn clematis vines. Clematis wilt can kill the plant. If the vine leaves start looking withered or dark, it’s a sign of wilt. Trim out and dispose of all affected foliage as quickly as possible after spotting the issue. That can often save the vine.

Other diseases that can impact sweet autumn clematis include leaf spot, rust, and powdery mildew. Garden pests like aphids, scale, and spider mites may also attack. Generally, these are not deadly and can be resolved with the appropriate fungicide or insecticide.

Sweet autumn clematis's invasive behavior is a problem in many states. This vine propagates very readily, but deadheading can help. When you deadhead you eliminate the possibility of the plant spreading via seeds.

You also need to watch your sweet autumn clematis closely to make sure it's not escaping your garden bed or spreading to other parts of the garden where you don't want it to grow.

Instead of planting the potentially invasive sweet autumn clematis, opt for a beautiful native lookalike. Clematis virginiana is almost identical and blooms around the same time in late summer to early fall. It's hardy in USDA zones 4-8, and you can find this lovely native clematis on Amazon.

Climbing and vining plants are a wonderful way to incorporate vertical space into your gardens, especially if you have a small yard.

These beautiful vines can provide shade and vibrant flowers, and are also a source of nutrition for many different types of pollinators.

Growing deciduous vines that flower is a great option whether you want privacy in your yard, to cover a chain-link fence, or simply enjoy a new plant. Here are my favorite vines that will add a pop of elegance to your garden.

My Favorite Perennial Vining & Climbing Plants

Here are my top six must-have vining and climbing plants whose blooms will brighten up your patio, yard, or container garden.

1. Trumpet Honeysuckle

Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), also called coral vine, blooms from early spring to a hard frost, with coral, trumpet-shaped flowers. It’s a hands-down favorite of hummingbirds, and I always make sure I have one in my yard.

As most perennials do, it takes coral vine a couple years to get well established, but then it really takes off, so make sure it is resting on a sturdy trellis. Once it fills out, prune it in late winter before new growth starts, so the vines do not get so heavy.

Plant coral vine in a sunny spot in well-drained, rich soil in USDA zones 4 to 9, then sit back and wait for the hummingbirds to arrive. The gorgeous, red 'Major Wheeler' variety of trumpet honeysuckle can be purchased from Burpee.

2. Clematis

Clematis (Clematis spp.) blooms in spring, summer or fall depending on whether your plant is Type 1, 2, or 3. Clematis comes in all sizes and vivid flower colors such as purple, pink, red, yellow, or blue. If you plant one for each type, you could have clematis blooming all season!

Type 1 flowers on old wood, Type 2 flowers on old and new growth, and Type 3 blooms on new growth. Pruning varies for each type, too. They prefer full sun, but like their roots in the shade, so cover the ground with mulch or a groundcover plant.

They also take a couple years to get established and really start blooming. I love my native clematis (C. versicolor), its small lavender and white flowers are perfect for its container. It returns every year with its sweet, bell-shaped blooms, which are very different from the newer hybrids and cultivars which are mostly star-shaped. Clematis is generally hardy in zones 4 to 9. Home Depot has a lovely, light purple clematis that is sure to brighten up your landscape.

3. Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.) makes my heart sing, particularly the cultivars with fuchsia-colored bracts. I love that vibrant pink color against the green, trailing foliage!

You can find cultivars with bracts in apricot, orange, white, yellow, purple, and red. I keep two in hanging baskets and I also am training one to grow as a shrub. I bring my bougainvillea indoors in the winter because it is only hardy from USDA 9b to 11.

Bougainvillea do not need a lot of pruning or water, but they require full sun to bloom at their fullest. They thrive on neglect once established. Watch out for thorns - they can take you by surprise when you are shaping the plant. You can find a gorgeous 'Majestic Purple' bougainvillea plant at Fast Growing Trees.

4. Climbing Rose

Everyone should have a climbing rose for its enticing scent and color! They do not grasp a support so you must tie them, but they easily grow up the side of your house, cover a fence, arbor, trellis, or other tall support.

Let them grow unpruned the first year, then during their second year, start tying the canes horizontally to its support system to encourage the side shoots or laterals, which bring the most blooms. They typically put on a showstopping display in spring, then sporadically the rest of the season.

Most climbing roses are hardy to USDA zones 5 to 10. Not all climbing roses produce a scent, so be sure yours does before purchasing. I love the deep red climbing roses but currently grow a thornless pink climber that covers my back deck railing. The Zephirine Drouhin climbing rose was developed in France in 1868 and is available from Jackson & Perkins.

5. American Wisteria

American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) grows quickly with twining, deciduous vines that easily cover a fence, trellis, or arbor. I am training mine as a standard tree shape by tying it to a pole.

It blooms on new growth with fragrant, lilac or purple racemes. The flowers are not as long and droopy as the Asian types, but still showy. American wisteria is a tamer alternative to the rampant growth of the Chinese and Japanese wisterias which are considered invasive.

American wisteria attracts hummingbirds and the egg-laying females of two skipper butterflies. Don’t worry! The caterpillars don’t eat much! Grow it in full sun in USDA zones 5 to 9. The beautiful and fragrant 'Amethyst Falls' American wisteria can be purchased from FastGrowingTrees.

6. Passionflower

Passionflower vine (Passiflora spp.) is a host plant for fritillary butterflies, most notably the variegated fritillary, the Gulf fritillary, and zebra longwing. Not only that, but the fragrant, fringed flowers are very exotic and unusual as well as attractive to pollinators. Some varieties are hardier than others (P. incarnata is the hardiest), generally USDA zones 5-9, and it helps to plant it in a southerly location away from winter winds.

Passionflower vine grows quickly to cover its support and blooms off and on all summer. The seed pods are round and hang heavily on the three-lobed foliage. The fruit is edible but the leaves and stems are toxic to humans and animals.

If you leave the fruit, it will likely be devoured by wildlife, but leftovers will reseed. Passion vine also suckers underground, but unwanted sprouts pull up easily. Purchase a Maypop passionflower vine from Plant Addicts.

Avoiding the Thugs

After trying many climbing plants - annuals and perennials - I have discovered dependable, easy to grow types as well as some garden thugs. All vines need some maintenance, however, such as annual pruning, or you may end up with a heavy, twisted, overgrown eyesore.

1. Dutchman's Pipe

I make exceptions for bad behavior if the plant provides a superior service, such as food for butterfly caterpillars. Such is the case for Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia spp.).

They are notorious for suckering underground and reappearing wrapped around nearby plants. But I always include one in my yard so the pipevine swallowtails can lay her eggs.

I now grow these vines in a container or in an area of the yard where no other plants are nearby. If you can control its suckering, the heart-shaped, green leaves give good coverage for a fence or trellis.

2. Trumpet Vine

Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) is another vine with the same problem suckering underground. When it reappears, it is hard to pull out and must be dug out.

If it can be contained to an area where it can be mowed around, it can work. Otherwise, leave it out. Trumpet honeysuckle is a much better choice.

3. Sweet Autumn Clematis

Another problem you need to watch out for is reseeding. Some vines put out an enormous amount of seeds, and while you may want the vine to reseed onto the trellis for next year, you probably don’t want it coming up all over the yard. I experienced this with the invasive vine Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis terniflora).

It reseeds and also reproduces by runners so it can become an aggressive grower. If allowed to reseed, you soon will have vines thickly covering all your shrubs and trees. It is on the invasive lists in several Eastern U.S. states.

Even the most aggressive vines can be managed with enough patience and determination, but my six favorite climbers are sure to please in most gardens. Try out some of these vines to add some beauty and delicate elegance to your landscape.

Highly attractive, honeysuckle is known for its enchanting fragrance, as well as its ability to attract hummingbirds and other pollinators to the garden. However, the decision to add this perennial to the landscape is not one which should be taken lightly. While some honeysuckle species are native to the United States, invasive types of the vine and shrub have become especially problematic.

Many invasive species of the plant, such as Japanese honeysuckle, grow very quickly to form large, dense shrubs. As a result, these honeysuckles are able to outcompete other native species, shading out understory plants and overtaking larger trees.

Many gardeners may find themselves wondering what to replace honeysuckle with. Fortunately, there are several native options available to home growers which will beautify the landscape, as well as play a vital role in increasing diversity among plantings. Let's explore what native species can replace honeysuckle.

Why is Honeysuckle Bad?

Invasive honeysuckle chokes out other plants in the understories of our forests and outcompetes other native shrubs. It is incredibly aggressive and difficult to control. Hand-pulling seedlings and cutting and treating old bushes with chemicals is labor intensive and must be done every year to keep the invader at bay.

These invasive shrubs and vines not only affect the plants around them, but they also have a negative impact on our wildlife. Honeysuckle does provide nectar and berries to our pollinators and wildlife, but they are not as nutritious as nectar and fruit from native species.

Invasive honeysuckle is also dangerous to human health and safety. According to a University of Wisconsin study published in 2010, honeysuckle-invaded areas of woodland saw five times the density of white-tailed deer compared to non-invaded woodland. Those honeysuckle-invaded woods also saw the density of nymph-stage ticks infected with bacteria that cause human disease 10 times higher than non-invaded areas. Honeysuckle plants attract mosquitoes with the cool shade and still air they create within the woods.

Native Alternatives to Invasive Honeysuckle

There are many native shrubs that are beautiful, good for pollinators and wildlife, and won’t take over your entire yard. It is always best to choose plants native to your area, and a lot of them are prettier and more fragrant than honeysuckle.

1. Trumpet Honeysuckle

This flowering vine is often found growing throughout the southern United States. Trumpet honeysuckle is a native species that produces vibrant tubular blooms. Though the plant is able to reach upwards of 20 ft. (6 m.) in length at maturity, it is not generally considered to be invasive. Trumpet honeysuckle vines grown in the flower garden will require a strong, sturdy trellis or arbor. The gorgeous, red 'Major Wheeler' variety of trumpet honeysuckle can be purchased from Burpee.

2. Carolina Jasmine

Also known as Carolina jessamine, these perennial jasmine vines produce an abundance of impressive yellow blooms. Much like honeysuckle, this species is best planted in flower beds where passersby are able to enjoy the plant’s beauty and pleasing fragrance. You can find Carolina jessamine for sale at the Home Depot.

3. Purple Passionflower

Native passionflower vine is an herbaceous vine with a unique hair-like flower structure. Though the plant is known to spread by suckers, it is not considered to be invasive. Purple passion vine plants can be found growing throughout much of the eastern United States.

4. American Beautyberry

Growing to form a small shrub, gardeners can expect beautyberry to reach approximately 5 ft. (1.5 m.) in height. The plant’s ornamental appeal shifts throughout the growing season, producing attractive blooms which are followed by its distinctive purple berries. These berries serve as an essential food source for birds and other local wildlife. Grow the beautiful and underappreciated beautyberry to add delicate charm to your garden.

5. Buttonbush

Gardeners who need shrubs to replace honeysuckle may find success growing buttonbush. Each season, buttonbush plants produce an abundance of white, globular flower heads. When in full bloom, it is not uncommon for the plant to attract large numbers of butterflies at any given time.

6. Ninebark

The ninebark shrub is yet another native perennial that is certain to add year-round interest to the home landscape. Large flower clusters range in color from white to varying shades of pink and purple. Depending upon the variety, gardeners can also expect highly ornamental foliage which persists into the fall. Deep burgundy foliage and light pink flowers adorn the 'Sweet Cherry Tea' ninebark shrub found at Fast Growing Trees.

7. Fragrant Sumac

As with many other shrubs that are considered to be good honeysuckle vine alternatives, fragrant sumac may be an excellent option for those looking to add larger plant species to the landscape. Fragrant sumac plants are frequently used in habitat restoration, as well as to prevent and control erosion. A 2-pack of 'Gro-Low' fragrant sumac is available from the Home Depot.

8. American Elderberry

Elderberry bushes are highly-adaptive native alternative to honeysuckle. Large shrubs provide shelter and serve as an invaluable food source for both pollinators and small species of bird. Though established plantings of elderberries can spread, they are generally able to be controlled easily by growers. American elderberry bare-roots can be purchased through The Arbor Day Foundation.

There are beautiful native alternatives to invasive honeysuckle that will add visual and textural interest to your landscaping and won't take over. Give one of these native shrubs or vines a try and see how they shine.

A symbol of strength and vigor, ivy is known for its ease of growth and long-lived nature. With this in mind, it is easy to understand how growers may first become interested in the various varieties of ivy plants available as houseplants and for the home landscape.

Choosing the best variety of ivy for one’s own garden will vary widely from region to region and depend upon the grower's personal preferences. Such characteristics may include overall size of the plant at maturity, appearance, and even required cultural conditions. Although, some varieties like English ivy are best grown indoors, but there are plenty of English ivy alternatives you can plant outside that are not as aggressive.

Understanding the needs of this diverse range of plants will help to ensure that, whether growing these vines in the landscape or in indoor spaces, they will provide beauty for many years to come.

Best Varieties Of Ivy

Let's explore several of the most popular garden cultivars in greater detail, accounting for both their needs and unique use in ornamental spaces.

1. Algerian Ivy

Commonly known as Algerian ivy, Hedera canariensis is a popular choice for use as a groundcover. Mature plants will grow best under shady conditions, where soils are able to remain consistently moist throughout the season. Though the species does show some tolerance to drought, it is often damaged by cold and may even die back in regions where winter weather is especially harsh.

2. Baltic Ivy

This ivy type is best known for its use as a groundcover in otherwise hard-to-manage ornamental beds. This includes those that are covered in dense shade throughout the majority of the day, as well steep slopes or grades. Though very similar to English ivy, Baltic types have leaves that are smaller and are generally considered to be somewhat less aggressive in growth. In terms of ivy, houseplant varieties of this species are also common and are well-suited to being kept indoors in containers.

3. Boston Ivy

Though commonly referred to as an ivy, Parthenocissus tricuspidata vines are beloved for their ability to climb most any structure. Still, care should be taken to avoid damage to buildings or trellises. Unlike evergreen species, Boston ivy demonstrates a deciduous habit; changing to vibrant shades of red and orange, and then losing its leaves as the weather begins to cool in autumn.

4. Irish Ivy

Ivy plant types, like Hedera hibernica, differ slightly in terms of appearance. However, each can be used in ways similar to other species. Irish cultivars are often noted for their utility in terms of erosion control and urban planning. Like many species, gardeners should proceed with caution, as the plant’s ability to spread may cause it to become problematic. Before planting, growers should always reference local laws or regulations regarding the plant.

5. Persian Ivy

Growing ornamental ivy plants outdoors is especially beneficial when they are positioned in high-traffic locations. This includes close proximity to paths, driveways, and sidewalks. Persian ivy species, which are specifically known for their attractive foliage, are most common in these areas. It is also a good choice for growth in outdoor containers, across trellises, and near fences.

6. Swedish Ivy

Hardy to USDA zones 10-11, this tender species is ideal for use as a houseplant or in containers. Gardeners outside of the plant’s hardiness range have also found success growing the plant as an annual. Rather than being grown as a climber, most gardeners opt to position Swedish ivy where tendrils are able to dangle or hang freely.

7. Virginia Creeper

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is often grown as a quality alternative to many more aggressive ivy species. Native to much of the United States, this plant is among the most hardy types available to home gardeners. Despite its status as a wildflower, growers note that the plant spreads quickly, covering fences and other structures with ease.

Two Ivy Varieties To Avoid

These varieties are known problems for American gardens and require specific treatment.

1. English Ivy

Though English ivy is sometimes grown as a houseplant, most experts discourage gardeners from planting it outdoors. Specific types of Hedera helix have long been associated with aggressive or invasive growth habits. English ivy has become specifically problematic due to its ability to overtake trees, outcompete native species, and even damage property. Choosing English ivy alternatives that will be less aggressive, but still check the boxes for providing groundcover or privacy screening is a good idea.

2. Poison Ivy

Though its common name would imply otherwise, poison ivy has little to no relation to true ivy plants. A native to much of the United States, Toxicodendron radicans is best known for its ability to produce rash-like reactions in persons that have been exposed to the plant. Experienced gardeners suggest monitoring growing beds and identifying poison ivy early so it can be removed safely before it is able to become established.

More Gardening Inspiration

• Add privacy and visual interest to your yard with our picks for five fabulous fast-growing vines!
• Evergreen climbing vines make beautiful features and look great all year long.
• Add more interest to your oasis with some small privacy trees that are sure to create lush seclusion in even the smallest garden.
• Get more inspiration and expert advice delivered straight to your inbox when you sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter.

If you have an eyesore in your garden, you likely want fast growing vines to cover it up and make the area attractive. Vines are also wonderful where garden space is limited since they need very little ground in which to grow. Fast growing climbing vines are useful to cover a fence and provide extra privacy in your yard, garden, or balcony.

There are vines that twine and there are self climbers that attach with tendrils and aerial rootlets. Most of these vines will need a helping hand to grow vertically, in the form of a structure and some hand training. Each of our picks offers several points of interest and will vigorously grow to provide vertical appeal and beauty.

1. Wisteria

Proper wisteria care is needed when growing these fast-growing, flowering vines. Common varieties include Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) and Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), as well as native American wisteria vines (Wisteria frutescens). These rampant growers can span 40 feet (12 m.). The woody stems are twining and wrap around each other to support the weight of the plant. They do best when given a sturdy arbor or similar support. Racemes of dangling purple to white flowers depend on the stems in spring, with some varieties creating another flowering spectacle later in the growing season. The blooms in most species are fragrant and attract a wide variety of pollinators.

Wisteria plants are suitable for United States Department of Agriculture zones 4-8. Wisteria vines need a sunny location in well draining soil. The plants need plenty of water, especially in the first year as they establish. They also respond well to pruning (use sharp pruners like the Felco F6 Hand Shears from Amazon) which should be done in late winter or early spring. One of the best varieties is ‘Blue Moon’ which produces lavender-blue flowers on a very manageable 10 foot (3.1 m.) vine.

2. Trumpet Vine

Campsis radicans is the native variety of this plant. There is also a Chinese ornamental trumpet vine. Both are aggressive growers and have the capacity to get out of hand without careful management. But they are glorious when in bloom and the delicate leaflets that adorn the plant lend it a lacy feel. The tubular flowers are reddish orange to pink and attractive to hummingbirds, which gives the plant its other name, hummingbird vine.

At maturity, trumpet vine can reach 40 feet (12 m.). This is one of the best fast growing vines for fences and other vertical structures. It is hardy in USDA zones 4-9 and virtually tolerates any type of soil. Plant it where it will receive full sun and in a couple of years you will have glorious flowers all over the plant in spring.

3. Clematis

There are over 2,500 selections of this heavily bred plant. Growing clematis vines is straight forward and can yield unmatched glorious flowers. Most of these plants are quite hardy into USDA 4-9, although there are a few that will thrive in zone 3. There are both single and double flowering varieties available. One of the loveliest is 'Josephine', a double lilac-pink flowering variety.

These plants need support as they climb and they may need to be tied as the plant matures. Clematis need well draining soil in a sunny location. The soil should be kept moist but not soggy. It may take a couple of years for new vines to flower but when they do, it’s worth it.

4. Purple Passionflower

Passionflower is also known as Maypop, the name for the edible fruits it produces. Growing passionflower is a rewarding endeavor. They can grow up to 10-40 feet (3-12 m.) in a year and have incredible blooms. Most varieties are hardy in USDA zones 6-10. The vine is deciduous in colder climates and dies back to the ground in winter. In warm regions, the stems become woody and persist. Most varieties have purple flowers but a few feature pink and white combinations.

Passiflora incarnata is native to parts of North America where it grows in well draining soil of average fertility, in full to partial sun locations. Check the fertility of your soil using the Luster Leaf 1818 Rapitest 4-in1 Soil pH/Moisture/Fertility/Light Tester from Amazon. Passionflower vines attach to vertical structures with tendril and may need some assistance with plant ties as they scramble up to the sun.

5. Virginia Creeper

Virginia creeper can grow up to 20 feet (6.1 m. ) in just one year and is native to North America. When it is mature, it may attain heights of 50 feet (15 m.). These extremely fast growing vine plants are known for their dark green, palmate leaves. The flowers are not noticeable or noteworthy except that they yield dark, purple-black berries that are a wonderful food source for birds. It is these birds that lead to the notion the vine is invasive. The berries root easily to start new plants. Virginia creeper maintenance is easy, simply cut off the berries if you do not want the vine to spread to other areas.

The plant is adaptable to any type of soil and lighting situation. In the fall it puts on a glorious display of blazing red to burgundy foliage. These are very hardy plants useful in USDA zones 3-10.

More To Explore

• Still deciding whether to plant vines or not? Read two of our experts' views weighing the pros and cons of planting vines in the garden.
• Consider our picks for 10 best flowering vines that are long bloomers.

Wisteria is a beautiful flowering vine that produces grape-like clusters of lilac, bluish, or occasionally white blooms. If you have seen these sprawling vines with spring and summer flowers climbing an arbor, trellis, or porch and been tempted to get one for your garden, beware. Fast-growing wisteria vines are common, and can be a real problem.

Is Wisteria Invasive?

There are several types of wisteria we see in American gardens. Some are native, but many of the common vines found in garden centers are not native. The most common types are Japanese (Wisteria floribunda) and Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis).

Both of these Asian wisterias are considered invasive in many areas. Check with your local extension office for information regarding your region or state. There are pros and cons of growing wisteria, but in North America, wisteria is labeled as invasive because of how fast it grows and its tendency to choke out other plants. It can also girdle trees and kill them.

How Fast Do Wisteria Vines Grow?

Non-native wisteria growth rate is extremely fast. These vines can grow as much as ten feet (3 m) in one year. This is the primary problem with Asian wisterias and why they are considered invasive in many areas. Any non-native plant that grows so quickly can limit the growth of or even kill native species.

Another issue is that out-of-control growth can damage structures. If not pruned regularly and aggressively, wisteria can grow up the side of a house, causing damage to the siding and roof.

How Long Does Wisteria Take to Grow to Full Size?

Wisteria vines can easily grow up to 30 to 40 feet (9 to 12 m) with vines as big as 15 inches (38 cm) in diameter, so controlling wisteria vines is important. Asian wisteria species are also very long-lived, up to 50 years. With 10 feet (3 m) of growth per year, you can have a full-size vine within just a few years.

Native Alternatives to Invasive Wisteria

Because of its invasive nature and high maintenance needs, many gardeners are rethinking Chinese wisteria. A good alternative is Wisteria frutescens. Also known as Texas or American wisteria, this native species grows throughout the eastern U.S. and is hardy to zone 5.

Native wisteria can reach impressive heights of 30 feet (9 m) like invasive wisteria, but it will do so much more slowly. This makes it a good choice for anyone worried about harming other plants or the high pruning needs of Chinese wisteria.

There are some other differences between Texas and Asian wisteria:

• While the Asian species flower first, native wisteria leafs out first and then blooms.
• The flower clusters (racemes) on Texas wisteria are rounder and more compact. The Asian racemes are longer.
• Native flower racemes are 3 to 6 inches (7.6 to 15.2 cm) while the Asian racemes can be up to 12 inches (30.5 cm) long.
• Both species are legumes that produce seed pods. On Asian species, the pods are fuzzy, while the native seed pods are smooth.

A slightly smaller option is Kentucky wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya). It grows between 15 and 25 feet (4.5 to 7.6 meters) but has flower clusters that are larger than those on the Texas wisteria.

Another benefit of the native species is that they begin to flower much sooner. You can probably find a transplant that is already blooming, while the non-native species might take several years to produce any flowers.

Growing Wisteria

Whichever type of wisteria you choose, they need full sun for optimal flowering. They do best in soil that is moist but not soggy, rich and humusy, and slightly acidic.

All wisteria types need something to grow on and support their vines or training. One solution to managing an unruly non-native species is to train it to grow as a tree far from buildings or other plants. Use a metal pole to support a single strong vine and prune it once or more a year to look like a weeping tree.

All species also need regular pruning to maintain the size and shape of the vine. Native species need much less vigorous pruning. With the Asian wisteria, plan to prune twice a year to keep it in check.

Tired of dealing with the aggressive nature of traditional wisteria? Try planting Callerya reticulata, or evergreen wisteria vine for a change. While wisteria vines bring to mind tall plants with graceful hanging blooms, it can outgrow its intended space. A smaller, more practical form of wisteria may be your best bet.

Soil & Fertilizer Needs

Evergreen wisteria plants (Callerya reticulata) grow best in rich, loam soils. Soil that remains consistently moist throughout the season is ideal and is beneficial to the plant’s overall health and production of flowers.

Evergreen wisteria vines benefit from routine fertilization. Liquid foliar sprays are especially effective throughout the plant’s flowering period. Slow-release granular fertilizers are yet another option and are best applied in early spring.

Water & Light Requirements

Evergreen wisteria plants should not be allowed to dry completely between waterings. This is especially important in regions that experience excessive heat or arid conditions. Weekly irrigation using drip irrigation system or soaker hoses may be needed to ensure that water is delivered deep into the plant’s root zone. These species will perform best when situated in beds that receive full sun throughout the day. Though the plant will tolerate some shade, less-than-ideal conditions may diminish their bloom.

Evergreen Wisteria Support

Callerya reticulata is a broadleaf evergreen climbing vine that can reach 16.5 feet (5 m.) so training it on a plant support system is necessary if you are not pruning it to keep it compact. Established wisteria vines need little additional care from growers. Spreading quickly, gardeners will need to make certain that the plants are able to vine over strong, secured supports. Common structures for wisteria include trellises, arbors, and pergolas.

Pruning Evergreen Wisteria

Evergreen wisteria vines are frequently pruned to develop a more shrub-like appearance. This is especially helpful when the plant is grown in small spaces or containers. Routine pruning helps to promote new growth, and branching, which will result in more robust plants. Though the plant is considered to be evergreen within its hardiness region, it is deciduous in other regions and, in winter, may be damaged by harsh conditions. Dead or broken stems should be removed promptly in early spring before active growth resumes.

Evergreen Wisteria Propagation

There are several options available for multiplying numbers of evergreen wisteria within their landscape. One of the most common ways is by allowing the plant to produce seed rather than deadheading the blooms. Though evergreen wisteria seeds are known to germinate readily, the process requires some patience. In most instances, several growing seasons are needed before new plants can begin flowering. Evergreen wisteria can also be propagated through cuttings. To take cuttings, simply remove a small segment of the plant’s stem. Green growth will root readily after being placed into trays filled with moist growing medium. Under ideal conditions, gardeners can expect rooting to begin within several weeks.

Problems, Pests, & Diseases

Though evergreen wisteria plants seldom have problems with insects or diseases, careful observation will help to diagnose and treat any potential issues. Foliar diseases like leaf spot and powdery mildew are the most common. Fortunately, routine garden sanitation practices can help diminish the impact of these problems. Smaller pests, like aphids or whiteflies, may also frequent the plant, however, these insects are seldom a cause for concern.

Frequently Asked Questions

Climbing plants are great additions to a garden or patio. They add vertical interest, cover up unsightly walls or other vertical surfaces, shade sunny areas, and provide privacy. It’s easy to find vines that will grow in various climates and garden conditions, but how many give coverage year-round?

For year-round privacy, wall coverage, and shade, you need evergreen climbing vines. These plants do not lose their foliage in the winter.

When choosing among these vines, consider their appropriateness for your USDA hardiness zone, whether they need sun or shade, and whether or not you have a sturdy vertical surface for them to climb.

These are just a few examples of evergreen climbing plants to suit a variety of hardiness zones and growing conditions.

1. Evergreen Clematis

Also known as Armand clematis (Clematis armandii), this evergreen clematis is a woody perennial vine that is hardy in USDA zones 7 through 9. It produces star-shaped white flowers with a delicate, vanilla-like aroma. The leaves are long, dark green, and glossy.

Evergreen clematis grows pretty aggressively and will climb a support up to 30 feet (9m) high. However, you can easily keep it to a reasonable size with regular pruning after flowering.

Grow evergreen clematis in full sun or partial shade. It prefers rich soil that has excellent drainage. It will not tolerate soil that is too wet. Clematis is a heavy feeder, so enrich the soil with compost and use a low-nitrogen fertilizer, like this Miracle-Gro Shake 'N Feed All Purpose Plant Food from Amazon, throughout the growing season.

2. Star Jasmine

Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a popular evergreen vine for its fragrant white flowers that attract bees and other pollinators. The attractive leaves are dark green, glossy, and oval-shaped.

It is not a true jasmine but is an evergreen in USDA zones 7 through 10 that can cover a vertical support or sprawl along the ground as a ground cover.

Although it tolerates shade, star jasmine should be grown in full sun for the best flowering. It prefers evenly moist soil that is loamy and drains well. In colder climates, you can grow star jasmine in a container, like this 14.75in Pure Garden Lattice Design Planter Box from Amazon, and bring it indoors for overwintering.

3. Carolina Jessamine

Another false jasmine is Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) or Carolina yellow jasmine. Native to the southern US and Mexico, this pretty evergreen vine is hardy in USDA zones 7 through 10.

The attractive light green leaves may develop interesting colors in winter, especially in the colder areas of its range. The flowers are yellow and funnel-shaped.

Grow Carolina jasmine in full sun and moist, rich, well-drained soil. This is a twining vine that grows best on arbors and trellises as opposed to walls. If not given a support, it will grow as a shrubby groundcover.

Note that Carolina jessamine is toxic to humans and animals, so should be avoided where there are young children or pets prone to eating plants.

4. English Ivy

English ivy (Hedera helix) is a controversial plant because of its aggressive, invasive growth. However, it is a versatile, hardy, and easy plant to grow in colder climates. Hardy in zones 4 through 9, it will quickly grow up vertical surfaces, providing year-round coverage with minimal effort. The glossy, dark green leaves are attractive, while the flowers are insignificant.

Native to Europe, English ivy is considered an invasive plant in many parts of North America. If you choose to use it, grow well away from wooded areas, where it can spread and become problematic. Growing it in a container is a good way to enjoy the plant while curbing its invasive tendanceis.

Within the confines of your garden, English ivy thrives in shade and tolerates average soil and drought conditions.

5. Persian Ivy (Hedera colchica)

Persian ivy (Hedera colchica) is a non-native ivy that can grow aggressively in some areas, but it is less invasive and problematic than its relative, English ivy.

Persian ivy is evergreen and hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. It can grow up to 50 feet (15m) tall and be a climbing vine or groundcover. The leaves are larger than those of other ivies and are heart-shaped, leathery, and slightly curled.

Persian ivy grows well in partial and full shade. It also tolerates dry soil and is generally very easy to grow even in poor soil. Like other ivies, Persian ivy uses rootlets to attach to and climb vertical surfaces. Prune regularly to keep it under control and prevent its spread to areas you don’t want it.

6. Climbing Hydrangea

Hardy in zones 8 through 10, the evergreen climbing hydrangea variety Pileostegia viburnoides has attractive, shiny, green foliage and panicles of lacy, creamy white flowers that bloom in summer and fall.

It can grow up to about 15 feet (7.6m) tall and readily clings to vertical surfaces. It will take a few years of establishment to bloom, but once it does, this climber flowers prolifically and attracts many pollinators.

Climbing hydrangea is a good choice for shady areas, but it will also grow in sunny spots. It grows best in moist soil that drains well.

7. Chilean Potato Vine

Chilean potato vine (Solanum crispum) is a climbing evergreen vine native to Chile and Argentina. It's suitable for USDA zones 9 to 11.

A member of the nightshade family, Chilean potato vine is a little shorter than other vines (6 to 12 feet or 1.8 to 3.7m). It produces attractive purple flowers with vibrant yellow stamens and has a sweet smell followed by pretty berries.

Grow Chilean potato vine in rich, medium-moisture soil that drains well. It grows well in full sun or partial shade. Be aware that this plant is poisonous, so take care if growing in a garden where children will be.

You may not know it, but those pretty flowering vines in your backyard may be considered invasive vine weeds. Plants are declared invasive if they escape cultivation and invade natural areas, affecting the ecosystem. Other plants may have the potential to become invasive and bear watching. Here are some aggressive vines that may be lurking in your garden.

Invasive Vine Species Common In Yards And Gardens

Climbing invasive vine identification can be tricky, especially when there are several look-a-like vines. Pay attention to leaf shape, flowering, seed pods or berries, opposite or alternate leaf arrangement, and type of root structure.

Invasive vines are typically removed by mowing, pulling/digging, cutting and recutting, or using chemical control. You can even try smothering plants with cardboard and newspaper, then covering them with mulch. Also, removing flowers can prevent seed formation. It may take several seasons to completely eradicate the vines. Here are 7 of the most common weedy or invasive vines:

1. Sweet Autumn Clematis

Sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora) sports an avalanche of small, white flowers in late summer or fall, lighting up shady areas. Its intoxicating scent lures unaware buyers to purchase this plant or accept a division from friends and neighbors. This harmless looking vine has the potential to take over your yard by underground runners and copious seeds. If the seed heads are not cut off in fall, this tenacious vine will multiply, climbing up shrubs, perennials, and even invading the lawn.

Instead, look for its native alternative, Clematis virginiana. You can tell them apart by the leaves. The native variety has jagged edges whereas the invasive terniflora has smooth edges.

2. Chinese and Japanese Wisteria

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) is a popular, fragrant vine associated with southern charm. Its lilac or white flowers bloom before it leafs out, hanging in long boughs throughout the thick vines, often suspended from pergolas. Its romantic flora soon becomes a gardener's nightmare as the invasive vines scramble up anything in its way, shading nearby plants and causing their demise. Wisteria vines climb high into tree canopies, preventing sun from reaching the leaves. It can choke out native vegetation, thus earning the invasiveness moniker. Japanese wisteria (W. floribunda) is not as widespread as Chinese wisteria, but it is just as invasive.

Alternative vines are the American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens), hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9, or evergreen wisteria (Millettia reticulata), which is hardy in zones 8 to 10.

3. Japanese Honeysuckle

Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) is an invasive species that was imported to America from Asia in 1806 as an ornamental. The fast growing vine quickly grew out of bounds and is banned in several states. It can be recognized by its fragrant white flowers that yellow with age, ovate, green leaves that are opposite on the stem, and blue to black berries. Its heavy weight can crush shrubs and small trees. It is recommended that it be removed if it is found growing in your yard.

Coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is a good substitute and is a favorite nectar plant of hummingbirds.

4. Kudzu

Kudzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata) was introduced to the U.S. as an ornamental by Japan in 1876. It was widely planted to prevent soil erosion before its invasive nature was discovered. The aggressive vine, which can grow a foot (31 cm) a day, eradicates native species by quickly covering them, cutting off their access to light, water, and nutrients. Its compound leaves are arranged alternately and bear three oval to heart-shaped leaflets. Its tuberous roots are hard to pull up without leaving bits behind that reestablish. Most homeowners turn to chemical control to get rid of it.

Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens), hardy in zones 7 to 9, can be planted as a substitute that blooms in late winter to early spring with a mass of yellow flowers.

5. English Ivy

English ivy (Hedera helix), which was blasted as an invasive plant years ago, is still common in the nursery trade. This Eurasion evergreen vine, when used as a groundcover, shades out other plants and invites rodents. As a climbing vine, it threatens trees by engulfing the branches, its weight toppling trees during inclement weather. Its waxy covered leaves, often lobed with white veins, make it impervious to herbicides, and its seeds are eaten and dispersed by birds.

6. Honeyvine Milkweed

Honeyvine milkweed (Ampelamus albidus) seems to pop up suddenly in yards, along the fence or in a shrub. If allowed to remain, it will quickly gain speed and the invasive vine with heart-shaped leaves and white clustered flowers can take over. Occasionally, monarch butterflies will lay eggs on a honeyvine, but it is not a favorite. The plant does not exude milky sap like the milkweeds, but it does produce a large pod.

7. Oriental Bittersweet

Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) has outpaced its native counterpart, American bittersweet, hybridizing with it and almost completely replacing it. Its orange berries are spread by birds and those who grow them for decoration. Its rampant growth smothers trees and can cause them to topple under its weight. In this case, invasive vine identification by leaf involves recognizing round leaves when the vine is young, and as it matures, the leaves become more pointed. Oriental bittersweet also can be identified by its orange-red roots.

Invasive vines in the yard can creep up on you, and suddenly they are out of control. Pay attention to the mystery vines growing in the corners of your yard and remove them, if necessary, before they get a stronghold.

Mandevilla is a gorgeous tropical vine that thrives outside until night temperatures dip to 45-50 F. (7-10 C.), at which time it’s time to think about overwintering mandevilla.

There are two options to mandevilla winter care: allow the plant to go dormant or bring the plant inside to continue to grow. Mandevilla care indoors does require more attention than allowing the plant to go dormant. When indoors, the mandevilla vine light requirements need to be specifically addressed. Read on to learn how to care for your mandevilla through the winter months.

About Mandevilla

Native to Brazil, mandevilla is noteworthy for its dark green, glossy leaves, vining habit and stunning trumpet shaped blooms. It can be grown outside in USDA zones 9-11 and can then be transferred inside for the winter.

Outdoors mandevilla loves light although, depending upon temperatures for your area, it often prefers bright indirect light. A mandevilla also requires soil that is well draining and, unlike many other tropical plants, does not like to be pot bound. During the active growing phase, fertilize your mandevilla once a week with a liquid fertilizer.

Dormant Mandevilla Winter Care

The first option when overwintering mandevilla is to allow the plant to go dormant. In this case, keep the vine outside until temperatures dip below 60 F (16 C), then spray off with water or insecticidal soap to remove any pests. Hard prune the vine to about 12 inches (30 cm).

Store the pruned vine in a cool, dark area like a garage, crawlspace, or basement with temperatures around 50-60 F (10-16 C). Do not fertilize or water except to keep the soil barely damp throughout the winter.

In early spring bring the vine into a sunny area inside. Pinch new shoots occasionally to foster a bushier habit. In late May to early June, repot and fertilize with a water soluble food. Return outside when all danger of frost has passed and temperatures are above 60 F (16 C).

Mandevilla Care Indoors

As temperatures cool outside, begin to acclimate the plant to a move indoors. The amount of light the plant gets indoors is likely less (unless you provide supplemental lighting) so to get the vine used to less light, move it into a shaded area a week or so before its move indoors.

If you have a greenhouse, sunroom or other bright sunny window inside, move the mandevilla inside as soon as the weather cools. As above, prune back the mandevilla -- by half or even more. The goal here isn’t to encourage growth but to simply keep the vine alive and healthy until the spring. As such there is no need to fertilize, and water should be applied only when the soil begins to dry out (about once a week).

If the plant is not provided supplemental lighting, mandevilla will grow slowly will likely not bloom. In fact, it isn’t unusual for the plant to become dormant.

In February, prune the plant back again and begin to fertilize once a month. Since mandevilla flowers on new growth, pruning and feeding will encourage early blooming. Place the plant outside in May or June for the summer.

Mandevilla Light Requirements

If you wish to encourage growth on an indoor mandevilla, it will need supplemental light. Outdoors, mandevilla thrives in bright -- albeit indirect -- sun. You will need to mimic this light indoors if you wish to obtain growth or blooms.

A sign that you should provide additional light is plants that become leggy. Even a sunroom doesn’t have the same amount of natural light as outdoors. You may wish to use supplemental fluorescent, incandescent bulbs or grow lights.

Building a beautiful landscape requires careful planning and attention to detail. Trees and large shrubs serve to frame the yard space and colorful flower beds can attract our eyes to beautiful focal plants. Size, shape, and texture all play an important role in creating an overall cohesive appearance to the ornamental garden.

One commonly overlooked aspect of garden design, however, is height. Adding height to the landscape helps the space appear more lush, interesting, and vibrant. This is often achieved with the addition of fragrant climbing vines.

Climbing Fragrant Flowers

Fragrant vines for the home flower garden are generally divided into one of two categories: annuals or perennials.

Though most flowering vines are easy to grow, they require a secure support onto which they are able to climb. This can be accomplished through the use of simple plant netting, decorative trellises, and/or large arbors. The type of support used also depends greatly upon the plant species. There are several ways in which various species of plants grow upwards. Among the most common types are those which twine, sprawl, or attach directly to surfaces. 

Annual Climbers

Annual climbing vines are those that grow quickly and begin to flower and set seed in one season. Most of these plants can easily be grown from seed by direct sowing into the soil after the last frost has passed each spring.

Some of the most popular annual vines for trellises are sweet peas, morning glories, hyacinth beans and black-eyed-susan vines. Moonflower, an exceptionally fragrant climbing flower, is often a good choice for growth near patios and walkways. 

Perennial Climbers

Perennial climbing vines may take several growing seasons to become established. However, mature plants will reward you with a profusion of blooms one season after another.

Where they’re hardy, perennial vines may also grow to reach impressive sizes. These specimens require routine care to keep them looking their best. General care includes seasonal applications of fertilizer, as well as careful pruning. Clematis, wisteria, and jasmine are all quite popular choices. Fragrant climbing roses can also add exceptional ornamental value to the landscape. 

Though there are many options available, it’s essential to research each plant type before making an addition to your garden. In some regions, certain types of fast-growing vines are considered highly invasive and a threat to native plant species.

Local agriculture extension offices and regional regulations regarding invasive plants and noxious weeds can offer more specific guidance to gardeners. 

Honeysuckle is a controversial plant. While North America has native species, invasive honeysuckles are a real problem. They out-compete native plants and provide a less nutritious food source for wildlife. More recently, scientists have discovered another problem: Non-native honeysuckles might increase your yard’s mosquito population.

Why Is Bush Honeysuckle Bad? 

While the U.S. has native honeysuckles—attractive flowering vines that pollinators love—non-native bush honeysuckles have become much more widespread. The most common are Tatarian, Morrow’s, Amur, and Bell’s. 

Non-native bush honeysuckles are bad to have around mostly because they crowd out native species that are better for wildlife. They leaf out earlier and block light to incoming native plants. 

Birds eat the berries of bush honeysuckle, but they are essentially junk food and don’t provide adequate nutrition. Another reason to remove any invasive honeysuckle from your property is that they attract and support disease-carrying mosquitoes. 

What Attracts Mosquitoes? 

Mosquitoes carry many diseases, notably in the U.S., the West Nile virus. They’re more than just a nuisance, and it’s best discourage them from congregating and breeding in your yard.

Mosquitoes might love your garden if you have standing water and a lot of yard debris, like grass clippings, overgrown plants, and leaf piles. They are also drawn to certain plants, like those that grow in water or tolerate standing water. 

Plants That Attract Mosquitoes Include Amur Honeysuckle

Water and leaf litter are the main attractants for mosquitoes because they lay eggs in water and feed on the bacteria that grow on decaying leaves. Scientists have also discovered that the leaf litter of certain plants, when dropping into standing water, attract and better support mosquitoes. 

This is another reason to dislike non-native honeysuckle. Researchers found that the habitat created by standing water and Amur honeysuckle leaf litter yields high amounts of adult mosquitoes. What makes these among the best plants for mosquitoes isn’t yet understood.

Another species that had a similar result was autumn olive, also invasive. The study found that blackberry, a native species, resulted in a large deposit of mosquito eggs, but low survival rates of the larvae. More research is needed to figure out why different leaves in the water impact mosquito survival. 

Knowing which plants attract mosquitoes and the conditions in which they thrive can help you make your garden more comfortable. It can also protect you and your family and pets from disease. If you have bush honeysuckle, take steps to eradicate it.

Whether you’re short on space, need to add privacy or hide unsightly views, take advantage of your vertical space with flowering vines.

Flowering vines not only provide lush foliage, but many varieties also offer a continuous display of blooms throughout the growing season.

Hardy perennial vines can be grown in the ground with a trellis, fence or arbor for support. Annual vines are best enjoyed for the season in containers on the patio. You could also experiment with crafting your own creative homemade trellises to support and showcase the beauty of flowering vines in your garden.

Let's explore our top 10 favorite flowering vines, which provide long-lasting blooms.

1. Clematis

Clematis, the queen of flowering vines, is available in a wide array of flower colors, shapes and bloom times. All varieties of clematis prefer to be grown in full sun to partial shade. Best grown in USDA zones 4-9.

2. Mandevilla

The heavy flowering mandevilla vine adds a tropical flair to the patio or landscape. Grow mandevilla in the ground or in a decorative container with a tall support structure. Give this vine full sun and regular fertilizer for all summer long blooms. Grow this plant as a perennial in USDA zones 9-11; otherwise, treat it as an annual or bring it indoors to overwinter.

3. Black-Eyed Susan Vine

(Thunbergia alata) - This fast-growing, continuously flowering vine is easy to grow from seed, but is also commonly available at garden centers in shades of yellow, orange, pink or white. This tender perennial is usually grown as an annual in colder zones. Place Black-Eyed Susan vines in full sun with afternoon shade if possible while providing a trellis to support the plant.

4. Firecracker Vine

(Ipomoea lobata) - The brilliant red blooms mature to pale yellow, creating a gradient of color, somewhat resembling a firecracker. A relative of morning glory, firecracker vine can be grown in the ground or large container in full sun.

5. Passion Flower Vine

(Passiflora spp.) - This vine, resembling something straight out of the tropics, can actually be grown just about anywhere, including much colder areas. Grow passion flower vine in the ground or in a container in full sun to light shade.

6. Trumpet Vine

(Campsis radicans) - This fast-growing perennial vine with tubular flowers ranging from yellow to orange to red, are attractive to hummingbirds and bloom from summer into fall. Be aware - many gardeners consider trumpet vine to be invasive.

7. Scarlet Runner Bean

(Phaseolus coccineus) - Grown for its pretty red flowers that bloom all summer long plus attractive seed pods, this vigorous climbing vine can reach upwards of 20 feet (6 m) within one growing season. In zones 7-11 scarlet runner bean can survive as a short lived perennial.

8. Snail Vine / Corkscrew Vine

(Cochliasanthus caracalla, formerly Vigna caracalla) - This unique and attractive vine is hardy in USDA zones 9-11. In colder regions, however, snail vine can be grown as an annual or brought indoors for the winter.

9. Hyacinth Bean Vine

The Hyacinth Bean Vine, also known as Lablab purpureus, is prized by gardeners not only for its edible pods but also for its ornamental beauty. This vigorous vine features lush green foliage and clusters of fragrant flowers in hues of pink, purple, or white, depending on variety. The edible pods should be harvested when young and tender. Hardy in warmer climates (USDA zones 9-11), it is typically grown as an annual elsewhere.

10. Bougainvillea

While bougainvillea offers a long summer bloom, the typical pink or purple flowers are actually not flowers at all! They are leaf bracts that surround the actual tiny white flowers. Place woody bougainvillea vines in a site that receives full sun.

Wintercreeper control is an important subject in areas where this fast-growing, non-native shrub and vine has taken root. It easily overgrows and shades native plants. You can remove euonymus by hand or with appropriate pesticides if growth is substantial. 

What is Wintercreeper Vine? 

Euonymus fortunei is also known as climbing or Japanese euonymus and wintercreeper. Native to Japan, euonymus grows as a groundcover, a shrub, and when given something to climb, a vine. 

Wintercreeper produces rootlets from branches when they hit soil and also in the air. This helps the plant spread rapidly over the ground and up trees and supportive structures. 

Is Wintercreeper Invasive? 

Wintercreeper is not native to North America. It is also considered invasive in many areas. It grows very quickly and tolerates poor conditions, so it can easily outcompete and cover and smother native plants. 

How to Get Rid of Euonymus

There are a couple recommended strategies for removing or killing wintercreeper in your garden:

• Hand pull. This is best used when you have few and small plants or in areas where you can’t apply herbicides. Simply pull out the plants being careful to remove all runners and roots. This is rarely a one-time solution, as any root fragment can regrow, but it helps manage plants. Pull when the soil is wet for best results. 
• Cut and apply herbicide. If you need to remove a large euonymus vine to remove from a tree, this is a better strategy. Cut the stem close to the ground and apply an herbicide immediately. If you only cut, it will regrow. Applying herbicide to a cut stem is also an imperfect solution. The plant may eventually resprout from somewhere, so keep an eye on it. 

To remove euonymus vines from your garden, it’s best to hand pull when you can and to use the cut stem method when pulling isn’t feasible. 

Whichever method you use, be sure to dispose carefully of all plant parts. Do not put them in compost. All of it should be bagged and sent to the landfill. 

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Specific brand names or commercial products or services do not imply endorsement. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

There’s nothing like a wreath for festive holiday décor. Both indoors and out, wreaths lend a natural, seasonal note to holiday decorations. Learn how to make a honeysuckle wreath for a fun project and keepsake you can use for years to come. 

Harvesting Honeysuckle Vines

You can make a wreath out of most types of vines. You can also make a wreath from twigs, but vines are perfect because they are long and flexible. 

If you happen to have a lot of honeysuckle growing wild in your yard or neighborhood, it’s an obvious choice for wreathmaking. There are many uses for honeysuckle vines, including wreaths, baskets, and garlands.

Fall and winter are the perfect times to harvest honeysuckle vines. This is when the vines are most flexible. Take only the vines you plan to use right away. Cut vines will stiffen quickly, becoming unusable. 

Cut lengths of vine using a good pair of shears and shape them into coils. You may want to boil the vines before using, but it’s not necessary. Boiling them for about 20 minutes kills any critters, makes the vines more pliable, and allows you to strip the bark. 

How to Make a Vine Wreath Base

With your vines cut, de-leafed, and boiled if you chose to do so, you’re ready to make a basic wreath. The simplest way to do this is to create a tight, circular bundle of vines and use one long vine to wrap around it and hold everything together. 

You can also choose one thick vine to create a circle. Secure the two ends with twine and weave the thinner vines around it. If you find it difficult to shape the vines into the circle, use a structure as a guide. 

A wire frame, which you can find at any craft sore, is a perfect base. You can also use a wire basket. Use spring clamps to secure the vines to the frame as you add them. 

Once you have a thickness you like, tie twine around the wreath in several places. Wrap one or more vines securely around the wreath and tuck their ends in. The shape should hold after you cut the twine. 

A honeysuckle vine wreath is a pretty decoration as is, but you can also add anything you like to the base: pinecones, greenery, ribbons, ornaments, and more. Change these out by season, and you have a year-round wreath.

If you want to add a touch of the tropics to your landscape, try growing queen’s wreath vine (Petrea volubilis). Native growing queen’s wreath has quite a large range but in North America it is only hardy in USDA zones 10-11. The following contains queen’s wreath info on how to grow and care for the vine. 

What is a Queen’s Wreath Vine? 

Queen’s wreath vine is a gorgeous tropical vine that looks somewhat similar to wisteria with its floppy lavender blooms. These clusters of foot long, star shaped blooms flower several times a year on this evergreen. 

Queen’s Wreath Info

This vining plant is native from Southern Mexico through Central America and on into northern and western South America. It is also found in Cuba, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and Hispaniola. Queen’s wreath is also referred to as petrea, purple wreath, or sandpaper vine in reference to the plants stiffly textured foliage. 

A rapid grower, the vine flowers multiple times per year between February and June. The flowers are densely packed clusters of blooms called racemes that from a distance look like grape clusters. Once the blooms fall from the vine, they leave behind purple calyces that decorate the vine for weeks. When the calyces do fall from the vine, they do so in a most entertaining manner, taking flight like so many whirligigs. 

The purple queen’s wreath is the more common cultivar but there is also a white blooming cultivar called ‘Albiflora.’ This vine grows voraciously in its native habitat, but when cultivated the vine tends to be much smaller or trained as an espalier. 

How to Grow Queen’s Wreath Vine

Queen’s wreath thrives in full sun but will tolerate partial shade in moist, fertile, and well-draining soil. It can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or air layering however, when growing from seed be advised that the plant will not bloom for two to three years. 

Provide the plant with some type of support upon which to clamber be it a trellis or fence. When the plant does bloom the initial burst of blossoms may defoliate the vine, but leaves will form and return again. 

Queen’s Wreath Care

When the plant is young it requires frequent watering but as the plant establishes it becomes more drought, wind, and salt tolerant. Plants should be protected from frost. In cooler regions, the vine should be grown in containers which can be overwintered indoors or inside a greenhouse or sunroom. 

Once established little care is required, beyond the occasional pruning and watering. Queen’s wreath has few major pest or disease problems although it is susceptible to mold, scale, mealybugs, and less frequently spider mites.

Ornamental flowering vines are of excellent use in the home landscape. Whether a gardener wishes to cover an unsightly old fence, wants to create a privacy barrier, or simply wants to maintain a visually appealing trellis canopy, the addition of vines to green spaces is sure to add the desired effect. One vine, called the Crimson Glory vine plant, is grown for its highly ornamental foliage and enthusiastic growth habit. Learning more about Crimson Glory climbing plants can help you as a gardener better understand whether this large specimen is right for your yard. 

What are Crimson Glory Grapevines?

Also known as Crimson Glory grapevines, the Crimson Glory vine plant is actually an ornamental type of grape. This variety is not bred for consumption by humans and should not be eaten. However, it does produce small fruit late in the growing season that’s especially attractive to birds and other native wildlife. This plant’s true ornamental value comes from its colorful and lively fall foliage.

Often reaching lengths of 60 feet (18 m.), this plant should only be considered by gardeners with access to ample growing space. In many cases, Crimson Glory climbing plants have shown an ability to escape flower borders and spread to neighboring trees and structures. 

How and When to Plant Crimson Glory Vines

In determining when to plant Crimson Glory vines, it is best to consider characteristics of its growth. Due to its deciduous nature, the best time to plant the vines is any time the plant is dormant. In most cases, gardeners are able to purchase bare root or dormant plants in the early spring. 

Crimson Glory grape vines will thrive in a location that receives full sun and has excellent drainage. Good air circulation will also be key, as many plants have shown susceptibility to disease pressures, such as powdery mildew. As noted, pruning a Crimson Glory vine will be a great necessity in controlling the size of the plants. Growers advocate for aggressive pruning in the mid-summer to control their spread and to maintain the vine’s desired shape.

Adding perennial flowering vines to your garden is an excellent way to add dependable height and dimension to ornamental plantings. From ornate arbors to trailing vines that cover entire walls, the options, in terms of design, are truly limitless. One popular garden vine, clematis, grows in a wide range of shapes, colors, and flower patterns. However, some cultivars are more popular than others. Jackman clematis vines are especially known for their ornamental use in the flower garden and bright, showy profusion of striking violet-blue flowers. But, what is a jackman clematis?

What is a Jackman Clematis?

First introduced in 1862, the jackmanii clematis vine is named after a nurseryman named George Jackman. From early spring throughout summer, vigorous blooms consistently cover the plant, creating a spectacular garden display. This characteristic makes jackman hybrid clematis an excellent choice for perennial flower borders, even in colder USDA growing zones. At maturity, these deciduous vines can quickly grow to reach heights of up to 10 ft. (3 m). 

Note: Like many ornamental plants, clematis vines are considered to be highly toxic. If you’re growing jackman clematis vines, you should always take great care to ensure the safety of children, pets, and other visitors to the garden. 

Jackmanii Clematis Care

If you’re wishing to grow jackmanii clematis, you’ll first need to research the plant’s specific requirements. Depending upon the variety, ideal conditions for clematis can vary greatly. In selecting a location, look for well amended soil with good drainage. Jackmanii clematis vine will grow best in an area where the top portion of the plant will receive full sun, and the bottom portion and root zone will be shaded. You can keep the root zone cool by shading it with other perennial plants nearby, or by adding mulch to the flower bed. 

Jackmanii clematis care also requires that its vines are provided with a trellis or other strong garden support structure on which to climb. 

Since this type of clematis will only bloom on new growth, pruning will be required to encourage strong blooms season after season. This is most often done in late winter, while the plant is still in its period of dormancy. Hard pruning, back to about 1 ft. (30 cm.) from ground level, often yields the best results. 

Morning glories are annual vining flowers that bloom, as the name suggests, early in the day. These old-fashioned favorites love to climb. Their trumpet-shaped flowers bloom in vibrant shades of purple, blue, red, pink, and white which attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Growing morning glories from seed is fairly easy if you know the trick to ensure quick germination.

Morning Glory Seed Propagation

When starting morning glories from seed, it can take two and a half to three and a half months before they begin blooming. In northern climates where cold winters and shorter growing seasons are the norms, it's best to start morning glories from seed indoors four to six weeks before the last frost date. 

When germinating seeds of morning glory, use a file to nick the hard coating of the seeds. Soak them in water overnight. Plant the seeds ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep in fertile soil. This trick helps the seeds take up water and germinate quickly. 

Germination time for morning glories averages four to seven days at a temperature of 65 to 85 degrees F. (18-29 C.). Keep the soil moist, but not soggy while germinating. Seeds of morning glory are toxic. Be sure to keep seed packets, seeds that are soaking, and those planted in trays away from children and pets.

Morning glories can also be directly seeded in the ground once the danger of frost has passed, and the ground temperature reaches 65 degrees F. (18 C.). Choose a location that receives full sun, good drainage, and is near a vertical surface for the vines to climb. They do well near fences, railings, trellises, archways, and pergolas.

When planting seeds outside, nick and soak the seeds. Water thoroughly. Once sprouted, thin the seedlings. Space morning glories 6 inches (15 cm.) apart in all directions. Keep the flowerbed watered and weeded until the young plants are established.

Working compost or aged animal manure into the ground before planting morning glory seeds or transplanting seedlings provides nutrients and helps retain soil moisture. A fertilizer designed for flowers can be applied according to the manufacturer's guidelines. Avoid overfertilizing as this can cause leafy vines with few flowers. Mulching will also retain moisture and control weeds.

Although morning glories grow as perennials in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, they can be treated as annuals in colder climates. The seeds form in pods and can be collected and saved. Instead of planting morning glory seeds each year, gardeners can let the seeds drop for self-seeding. However, flowering may be later in the season and the seeds can spread morning glories to other areas of the garden. If this becomes problematic, simply deadhead the spent flowers before they have a chance to form seed pods.

Wintercreeper is an attractive vine that grows in nearly any condition and stays green year-round. Wintercreeper is a serious challenge in many areas though. Invasive wintercreeper grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. 

How to get rid of wintercreeper? Managing this bully of the plant world isn’t easy. It requires hard work, persistence, and patience. Read on to learn about wintercreeper management.

About Wintercreeper Control

Invasive wintercreeper was introduced in North America from Asia in the early 1900s. It is an opportunistic plant that invades forests damaged by insects or fires. The dense mat of vines prevents the growth of seedlings, robbing moisture and nutrients from the soil. 

Since it threatens native plants, invasive wintercreeper also threatens native butterflies. It can even climb up shrubs and trees to 20 feet (6 m.) thus, smothering them and preventing photosynthesis, which can eventually weaken or kill the plant.

Here are some methods for controlling this plant:

• Don’t purchase the plant. This may sound like a no-brainer, but many nurseries continue to sell invasive wintercreeper as easy-to-grow ornamental plants. Growing in the wild, it has escaped the confines of domestic gardens.
• Control the plant by pulling. Hand pulling is the most effective means of wintercreeper control if the area isn’t too large, although you may have to keep at it for a few seasons. Pull gently and slowly. If you leave any roots intact, they will regrow. Pulling is most effective when the ground is damp. Pick up the pulled vines and destroy them by composting or chipping. Don’t leave any roots on the ground because they will take root. Continue to pull sprouts as they pop up. 
• Smother the invasive plant with cardboard. A thick layer of cardboard and mulch will smother the plant (along with any other plants under the cardboard). Trim the vines with a weed trimmer first and then cover them with cardboard extending at least 6 inches (15 cm.) beyond the outer edge of the wintercreeper patch. Cover the cardboard with a thick layer of mulch and leave it in place for at least two growing seasons. For even better control, layer cardboard and mulch to a depth of 12 inches (31 cm.).
• Mowing or trimming the invasive plant. Many weeds are kept in check by mowing or trimming, but wintercreeper isn’t one of them. Mowing may encourage more rampant growth. However, mowing or trimming before applying cardboard or spraying with herbicides may make those techniques more productive.

Your local cooperative extension can offer more information about safe controls in your area.

The scarlet ivy gourd vine (Coccinia grandis) has beautiful ivy shaped leaves, prominent star-shaped white flowers, and edible fruit which turns scarlet when ripe. It's a very attractive perennial vine for trellises. It seems like the perfect plant to cultivate, yet gardeners are advised to think twice before growing scarlet ivy gourds.

Is Scarlet Ivy Gourd Invasive?

In tropical areas, like Hawaii, the scarlet ivy gourd vine has become a problematic invasive species. In a single day, these vines can grow up to 4 inches (10 cm.). It's a vigorous climber which engulfs trees, smothering them with thick, sun-blocking foliage. Its deep, tuberous root system is difficult to remove, and it doesn't respond well to herbicides.

The vine propagates easily by roots, stem pieces, and cuttings. Seed dispersal by birds can spread the scarlet ivy gourd vine far from the perimeters of cultivated gardens. The vine grows in most types of soils and can set up residence alongside roads and in wastelands.

Inside USDA hardiness zones of 8 to 11, the perennial scarlet ivy vine can grow unrestricted from any natural enemies in areas where it has been introduced. Biological control methods, from its native habitat in Africa, have been released in the Hawaiian Islands as a means of controlling this invasive weed.

What is a Scarlet Ivy Gourd? 

A native of tropical regions in Africa, Asia, and Australia the scarlet ivy gourd vine is a member of the cucurbitaceae family and is related to cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, and melon. It has many names in different languages, but in English it's also called a baby watermelon. This nickname comes from the watermelon-like appearance of the green, unripe fruit.

Is ivy gourd fruit edible? Yes, ivy gourd fruit is edible. In fact, in some areas, the vine is cultivated just for the sale of the fruit, which has a crisp, white flesh with a cucumber-like taste and is usually harvested in the immature green fruit stage.

When the fruit is green, it is often added to curries and soups while ripe fruit can be eaten raw or stewed with other veggies. The tender leaves are also edible and can be blanched, boiled, stir fried, or added to soups. The tender shoots of the vine are even edible and rich in Beta carotene, riboflavin, folic acid, and ascorbic acid.

It provides a dietary source of fiber, calcium, iron, thiamine, and riboflavin. Reports indicate consuming the ivy gourd can help improve glucose tolerance and the fruit is beneficial for controlling blood sugar levels in diabetics.

Additional scarlet ivy gourd uses in natural medicine include harvesting the fruits, stems, and leaves to treat abscesses and reduce high blood pressure. The plant is believed to contain antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Additional Ivy Gourd Plant Info

Growing scarlet ivy gourds in climates which are colder than USDA hardiness zone 8 reduces the risk of cultivating a potentially invasive species. In these areas, scarlet ivy vines can be grown as annuals. It may be necessary to start seeds indoors in order to provide a sufficient growing season to produce fruit.

Controlling Traveler’s Joy clematis may become necessary if you find this vine on your property. This Clematis species is invasive in the U.S. and is especially widespread in the Pacific Northwest. Without good control, the vine can take over areas, blocking out sunlight and even bringing down branches and small trees with its weight.

What is Traveler’s Joy Vine?

Also known as Old Man’s Beard and Traveler’s Joy clematis, this plant is officially termed Clematis vitalba. It is a deciduous vine that flowers in the summer, producing creamy, white, or light greenish-white blooms. In the fall they produce fluffy heads of seeds.

Traveler’s Joy clematis is a climbing, woody vine. It can grow vines as long as 100 feet (30.5 m). Native to Europe and Africa, it is considered an invasive weed in much of the U.S.

The best growing environment for Traveler’s Joy is soil that's chalky or rich in limestone and calcium, fertile, and well-draining. It prefers temperate, moist conditions.

In the U.S., it often crops up on forest edges or in areas that have been disturbed by construction.

Controlling Traveler’s Joy Plant

While in its native range Traveler’s Joy is often used ornamentally, but it creates a lot of problems in the U.S. Clematis weed control may be necessary for your area for several reasons. The vines can grow so tall they block out sunlight for other plants, the vines can climb trees and shrubs (their weight-breaking branches), and they can quickly destroy understory trees and shrubs in forests.

To avoid herbicides, you will have to stick with mechanical means of managing this weed. If organic herbicides are necessary, consult with your local university extension service first.

Cutting down and destroying this vine is possible but it can be time-consuming and energy-draining. Catch it early and remove plants and roots in winter.

In places like New Zealand, there has been some success using sheep to control Traveler’s Joy, so if you have livestock, let them have at it. Goats are known for their “weed eating” too.

Studies are currently underway to determine if there are any insects can be used to control Traveler's Joy Clematis.

Adding height to the flower garden is an excellent way to provide interest and dimension. Planting different clematis vines is an easy way for growers to add a vibrant pop of color that will last for many growing seasons to come. However, different clematis vines will have varying requirements for growth. Rather than purchasing on an impulse, it is wise to research clematis plant types well before planting them into the growing space to ensure that their needs are well met.

Clematis Plant Types

Long-lived perennial clematis vines are beloved in the flower garden for their wide range of bright colors and interesting flower shapes. Coming in both single and double flower forms, clematis flowers can easily complement established flower borders.

Though the hardiness of clematis vines will vary depending on the location and the type planted, growers seldom have trouble finding a variety that will thrive in the garden. The vine’s growth rate and mature height will also vary greatly depending upon the types of clematis planted.

Regardless of the varieties of clematis planted, required growing conditions will be similar. While these vines do prefer a location that receives full sun, their roots do prefer a cooler, shaded location. This makes them an ideal companion for planting with ornamental perennial shrubs, such as hydrangeas. Trellis preferences may also vary from one plant to another. Though some clematis varieties produce climbing vines, others grow upwards through the use of tendrils.

Popular Clematis Varieties

Clematis varieties can generally be divided into three types: those that bloom on new growth (Type 1), those which bloom on both (Type 2), and those that bloom on old wood (Type 3). Understanding the needs of different clematis vines will determine the number of flowers that growers can expect each season.

Gardeners living in cold regions may prefer varieties blooming on new wood, as winter cold can cause damage to plants. While evergreen types of clematis do not generally require pruning, deciduous varieties of clematis will require yearly maintenance. Each clematis plant type will require different pruning techniques in order to ensure the best results.

Here are some popular varieties of clematis to add in your garden:

Type 1

• Armand clematis (Clematis armandii)
• Downy clematis (C. macropetala)
• Alpine clematis (C. alpina)
• Anemone clematis (C. montana)

Type 2

• Clematis lanuginosa ‘Candida’
• Florida clematis (C. florida)
• ‘Barbara Jackman’
• ‘Ernest Markham’
• ‘Hagley Hybrid’
• ‘Henryi’
• ‘Jackmanii’
• ‘Mrs. Cholmondeley’
• ‘Nelly Moser’
• ‘Niobe’
• ‘Ramona’
• ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’

Type 3

• Woodbine (C. virginiana)
• Orange Peel clematis (C. tangutica)
• ‘Rooguchi’
• Texas clematis (C. texensis)
• ‘Duchess of Albany’
• Italian Clematis (C. viticella)
• ‘Perle d’Azur’
• ‘Royal Velours’

Vines are super handy to screen items, add texture, and create visual borders. There are both evergreen and deciduous vine varieties. What are deciduous vines?

Some of the deciduous types may leave the landscape looking a little sad in winter when they lose their leaves, but the vast number provides the gardener with more color and foliage opportunities than their counterparts. Deciduous vine care may be a bit more difficult than hardy evergreens but will be worth it when they come back in all their glory in spring.

What are Deciduous Vines?

Deciduous vines are often noted for their spectacular spring color. The leaves change in response to day length and temperature cues, providing a stunning display in fall. If you are considering growing deciduous vines, check their hardiness level and make sure to provide some protection for roots during the cold season.

Among the types of deciduous vines, you can choose from those that flower, fruit, or have spectacular foliage. There are twining, clinging, and sprawling species so selection starts with the amount of support needed. If you want a year-round screen, deciduous vines aren't for you, as they will lose leaves and most of their interesting characteristics when cold temperatures arrive.

It’s their sheer diversity, though, that allows the gardener some unique visual statements. Some vines are only deciduous in colder climates and will retain foliage in southern regions. Again, making sure the vine is hardy to your region will gain the most success with these types of plants.

How to Grow Deciduous Vines

You can narrow down your selections by hardiness, purpose, desired characteristics, and site conditions. Size and deciduous vine care will be two other specifications. If you don't want a huge vine, choose accordingly. If you don't want to have to prune or clean up a lot of debris either, select your plant with care.

You may want a vine that attracts birds, flowers, or provides you with fruit. Most plants need well-draining soil that is slightly acidic and has plenty of organic matter. For those that will need something on which to cling, install support early in the plant's growth. This might be a trellis, arbor, pergola, or some other erect frame.

Deciduous Vine Varieties

Growing deciduous vines to maturity depends upon taking care of that specific plant's needs. Some need consistent water, while others are content to wait for natural precipitation. Check fertilizing needs, pest and disease issues, as well as pruning requirements. For the latter, for instance, clematis vines have three distinct pruning classes. Note yours or you may sacrifice flowers the next year by pruning at the wrong time.

Some of the more exciting vine choices are:

• Dutchman's Pipe
• Climbing Hydrangea
• Trumpet Creeper
• Wisteria
• Virginia Creeper
• Kiwi Vine
• Jasmine
• Crimson Glory Vine
• Passionflower

Gardening interest in vertical growing has increased in recent years and full sun vines are among the easiest to train upward. Expected to increase even more, vertical growing is among the list of trends for the upcoming year and possibly the entire decade.

Vines That Like Sun

Trailing upward, vines that like the sun can grow up a fence, trellis, or an arbor with various purposes in the landscape. Vertical vines can be used to add privacy or block a view from next door. An arbor can be used as an entrance to an area of the yard or garden. Loaded with flowering vines, it becomes even more spectacular.

Below are some popular vines for full sun that will add a pop of color and a wow factor to the garden:

• Bougainvillea grows as an annual in the northern part of the U.S. It’s an old-fashioned beauty with blooms that appear in spring and remain until summer’s heat is too much for them. Colorful bracts and modified leaves on this plant surround the tiny, white flowers. It flowers best in a full sun area, getting at least six hours. Winter protection may be needed when growing bougainvillea in colder areas.
• Clematis is another beauty that performs most prolifically when growing upward. C. jackmanni is perhaps the favorite of the many types of clematis. Velvet-like, deep purple blooms fade to lilac as they wind down their summerlong show. This is one of the plants described as liking cool feet, or shade on the roots, while the foliage and flowers prefer the sun. Keep roots moist and add an attractive mulch to help keep them cool.
• Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) is also a favorite with northern gardeners because of its early flowers. Light-colored green foliage provides an unusual look when these sun-tolerant vines display foliage and blooms before spring becomes a season. Some years blooms appear as early as January. It is easy to get established and easy to care for. While the plant normally has shrubby growth, it is easily trained to grow vertically. Direct winter jasmine upward and you’ll find it easily cooperates with your direction.
• American Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) is a counterclockwise twining grower with woody stems. It is native to moist thickets and swampy pond and stream areas in the U.S., reaching from Illinois south to Florida and beyond. Most grow it in the landscape for attractive purple blooms. These are among the hardiest vines for full sun and benefit from a sturdy support. Grow it in humus type soil that is regularly moist and slightly acidic. Pruning is necessary for this vine to continue flowering. American wisteria is not invasive, unlike the two other wisteria types.

A color-changing bougainvillea in your garden may be a neat trick. In some cases, though, the original color is what you were after and may even transition into something you don’t like as much. For instance, some people report their pretty, bright pink bougainvillea transitioning to a dirty, rust red. What does this mean, and can you do anything about it?

About Bougainvillea Colors

First, note that the flowers you describe on bougainvillea are actually bracts, not petals. The true flowers are tucked inside these leaf-like structures that come in bright colors. The bract color for bougainvillea may come in various shades of pink, red, purple, yellow, and white. Yes, they can also change color without warning.

Why Did My Bougainvillea Turn Colors?

There are a number of reasons that could explain why your bougainvillea changed color. Unfortunately, you may not be able to pinpoint the exact one or make any adjustments to get the color you prefer.

If your bougainvillea is a different color from when you bought it at a nursery, it may be a result of cross-breeding. The cultivars on sale in most nurseries and garden centers can change color because of complex and variable genetics. They may develop spots, new colors on one or a few branches, or on the entire plant.

Other reasons for color changes are simply different environmental conditions. The conditions for a potted plant in the nursery are regulated and tightly controlled. In your yard, differences in temperature, soil type and alkalinity, light exposure, and water can alter the colors.

It’s most often not possible to change a bougainvillea back to the original color. However, you can try changing conditions to see if it triggers a shift in color. The healthiest conditions for bougainvillea are slightly acidic soil that is moist but drains well, indirect light, and warm temperatures.

If you buy a potted bougainvillea, the best way to preserve the color is to maintain the same conditions. Keep it in the pot and water regularly. Provide indirect light and bring the plant inside when it is too cold. Ideally, the conditions and environment should remain stable for a happy, thriving bougainvillea.

Have you wondered exactly what is a trellis? Maybe you confuse a trellis with a pergola, which is easy to do. The dictionary defines a trellis as “a plant support for climbing plants,” if used as a noun. As a verb, it is used as the action taken to make the plant climb. It is all this, but it can be so much more.

Trellis Support for Plants

Trellising in gardens does, indeed, allow and encourage the upward growth of bountiful blooms or attractive foliage. A trellis is often attached to a pergola. Using them together provides upward growth on the sides and spreading growth on top. That said, they’re most often freestanding.

A trellis is used for more than ornamental greenery and blooms though. It can be a great support for many fruits and vegetables that grow in your edible garden. Upward growth allows you to conserve space and grow more in a small area. Harvesting is easier, with less bending and stooping. Any plant that spreads from runners can be trained upward. Special provisions may be necessary to hold growing fruit as it gets large, but the issue is not with the plant growing upward.

Any crop trained to grow upward has the benefit of staying off the ground and has less potential for rotting or other damage that happens when edibles lay on the ground. Various trellis types are usually attractively put together, but any upward support works for crops like peas and indeterminate tomatoes.

When starting a crop on a trellis, it may need training, but many species readily grab onto any support that is close enough for vines to reach. You can put together a simple trellis for use in the vegetable garden. Those that support ornamentals may need a little more planning to increase your curb appeal. No garden? That’s okay. There are many options for houseplant trellises too.

How to Make a Trellis

Latticework is associated with the trellis and is often used along with one by one poles or planks. Sometimes, wire is used instead.

Have some idea how much weight your trellis needs to hold when choosing materials. Designs for building a trellis are plentiful online. Many are pyramidal poles in the ground with mesh or chicken wire between. A DIY cattle panel trellis is another simple and cost-effective option.

Before buying a trellis, check for materials you may already have available.

The Carolina moonseed vine (Cocculus carolinus) is an attractive perennial plant that adds value to any wildlife or native bird garden. In the fall, this semi-woody vine produces brilliant clusters of red fruit. These Carolina moonseed berries provide a source of food for various species of birds and small animals during the winter months.

Carolina Moonseed Info

The Carolina moonseed has several common names, including Carolina snailseed, red-berried moonseed, or Carolina coral bead. Except for the latter, these names are derived from the berry's single distinctive seed. When removed from ripened fruit, moonseeds resemble the crescent shape of a three-quarter moon and is reminiscent of the conical shape of a seashell.

The natural range of the Carolina moonseed vine runs from Southeastern U.S. states through Texas and northward into the southern states of the Midwest. In some areas, it's considered an invasive weed. Gardeners report the Carolina moonseed can be difficult to eradicate due to its extensive root system and the natural distribution of its seeds by birds.

In its natural habitat, these moonseed plants grow in fertile, swampy soil or near streams which flow alongside forest edges. The moonseed vines climb to heights of 10 to 14 feet (3-4 m.). As a twining type vine, the Carolina moonseed has the potential to strangle trees. This is more of a problem in the Southern climates where warmer temperatures don't cause winter dieback.

Grown primarily for the vibrant colored berries, the heart-shaped leaves of this vine add visual appeal to the garden during the spring and summer months. The yellowish green flowers, which appear in late summer, are insignificant.

How to Grow Carolina Moonseed Plants

The Carolina moonseed vine can be started from seeds or stem cuttings. The seeds require a period of cold stratification and are often distributed by birds or small animals who have consumed the fruit. The vine is dioecious, requiring both a male and a female plant to produce seeds.

Place plants in full sun to partial shade, being sure to give them a sturdy fence, trellis, or arbor to climb. Choose the location wisely as this plant exhibits a fast growth rate and has invasive tendencies. The Carolina moonseed vine is deciduous in USDA zones 6 to 9, but often dies back to the ground during harsh zone 5 winters.

These native vines require little care. They are tolerant of heat and rarely need supplemental water. They are adaptable to a wide range of soil types from sandy riverbanks to rich, fertile loam. It also has no reported pest or disease issues.

Climbing plants save space in the garden by growing vertically. Most gardeners have had one or more climbing plants in the garden that have tendrils. What are tendrils for? Tendrils on vine plants help the plant ascend much like a rock climber who needs hand and foot holds to scale up a mountain.

While climbing is the main purpose of tendrils, they may also have some negative consequences as well. Given that there are downsides to tendrils on vine plants, should tendrils be removed?

What are Tendrils for?

There are two types of tendrils: stem tendrils like those found on passionflowers or grapes and leaf tendrils such as those found on peas. Stem tendrils grow out of the stem and leaf tendrils are modified leaves that emerge from a leaf node.

As mentioned, the purpose of tendrils on vines is to assist the plant in climbing but they can also photosynthesize, making them doubly valuable to the vine.

The tendrils of plants such as the sweet pea act as fingertips and “feel” around until they encounter a solid object. When they “touch” the object the tendrils contract and coil. This process is called thigmotropism. Once the tendril coils and grabs onto the object, it can adjust the amount of tension on the support.

Should Tendrils be Removed?

The purpose of tendrils is all well and good for the vine, but what about other plants? Turns out it’s a jungle out there and vines have a well-deserved reputation for invasion. The harmless looking tendrils grow rapidly and can quickly wrap around their competitors, strangling them.

Tendrils of other plants, such as ivy, can wreak havoc on your house. They use their tendrils to climb but as they do so, these tendrils get wedged in cracks and crannies along the foundation and up the exterior walls of the home. This can cause damage to the exterior, but then again, so can removing tendrils from plants that have adhered to the home.

So, should tendrils be removed? Ideally, if you have a climber next to the home, you have provided a support for it to clamber up rather than up your exterior. If this isn’t the case, then carefully removing tendrils from plants that have adhered might be the only option. Certain sidings, such as stucco, are more susceptible to damage from the tendrils of plants.

To remove the tendrils first snip the roots of the vine from the ground or wherever the connection is. Next, cut 12 by 12 inch (31 x 31 cm.) sections of the vine that is growing up the house. Cut through both vertically and horizontally in this manner until you have a grid comprised of square-foot sections.

Let the grid of cut vines dry for two to four weeks and, once dry, gently pry it from the wall. If you meet with resistance, the vine is probably still green. Allow it to dry further. The whole process of killing the vine may take a month or longer. As the vine dries, continue to remove sections by hand.

Whether you know it as Spanish firecracker vine, love vine, or fire plant, Ipomoea lobata is a summer to fall flowering plant with brilliant red blooms that somewhat resemble a firecracker. You may grow the firecracker vine plant in the ground or in a container.

What is a Spanish Firecracker Vine?

Related to many vigorous vining plants such as morning glory in the Ipomoea family, the firecracker vine is a showy, twining annual perfect for growing up a sturdy fence or trellis in a full sun area.

Also referred to as exotic love vine, this plant was originally called Mina lobata and retains this name with many gardeners. Banana shaped blooms grow together on one side of the branches, earning it the common name of Spanish flag too. Don’t confuse the Ipomoea firecracker vine with Russelia equisetiformis, which is also called firecracker plant.

This plant is frost tender and bloom time often depends on where it is growing. It will bloom in any location when enough warmth is given. In the warmer parts of the U.S., blooms may begin in spring and don’t stop until late summer. This creates a long range of bloom times. Blooms are tubular and grow in clusters.

How to Care for Firecracker Vines

Plant the vine into a full sun location when temperatures warm in your area. Rich, well-draining soil is recommended. Work in finished compost to make the soil more fertile if needed.

Water regularly until the plant is established, usually a few weeks for firecracker vine. Once established, the plant is somewhat drought tolerant but performs best with regular watering and consistent moisture. It can take occasional wet soil.

This plant attracts bees and hummingbirds and is a great addition to a pollinator garden. Fertilize regularly for the best show of blooms.

Firecracker vine care may include pruning for a later display of blooms. If plants are thick and heavy, prune back in early to midsummer so the autumn blooms have time to develop. Unless you have the time to prune regularly, avoid growing this vine on a weak structure.

If you have heard of rosary pea or crab's eyes, you are familiar with Abrus precatorius. What is rosary pea? The plant is native to tropical Asia and was introduced to North America around the 1930’s. It enjoyed popularity as an attractive vine with pretty pea-like, lavender blooms. However, in some regions, it is now considered a nuisance plant. 

What is Rosary Pea?

Finding hardy, tropical vines with several seasons of interest can be difficult. In the case of rosary pea, you get delicate foliage, beautiful flowers, and interesting seeds and pods combined with a tough, no-fuss nature. In certain regions, rosary pea invasiveness has made it a problem plant.

The plant is a climbing, twining, or trailing woody-stemmed vine. The leaves are alternate, pinnate, and compound giving them a feathery feel. Leaves may grow up to 5 inches (12.5 cm.) long. The flowers look much like pea blooms and may be white, pink, lavender, or even reddish. Long, flat, oblong pods follow the blooms and will split when ripe to reveal bright red seeds with a black spot, which leads to the name crab's eyes.

Rosary pea seed pods have been used as beads (hence the name rosary) and make a very bright, pretty necklace or bracelet.

Should You Grow Rosary Pea?

It is always interesting that what is considered an invasive species in one area is ornamental or even native in others. Rosary pea invasiveness has infected many states and counties. It is native to India and grows very well in warm regions where it can escape cultivation and compete with native vegetation. It is also a very desirable, ornamental vine with fabulous pods and brightly colored seeds and blooms.

In Florida, it is a Category 1 invasive species, and the plant should not be used in that state. Check with your local extension office before choosing to grow this interesting vine in your landscape.

Is Rosary Pea Poisonous?

As if the plant doesn't have enough problems due to its invasiveness potential, it is also extremely toxic. Rosary pea seed pods offer an interesting ornamental detail but housed inside is certain death. Each seed contains abrin, a deadly plant toxin. Less than a single seed can cause fatality in an adult human.

Usually, it is children and pets that snack on landscape plants, which makes it very dangerous to have in the garden. The symptoms are nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, burning in the throat, abdominal pain, and ulcers in the mouth and throat. Untreated, the person will die.

Vining plants have long been used to add visual interest to arbors, arches, and the sides of structures. While the concept of “green curtains” is certainly not new, the creation of living plant curtains has gained popularity in recent years. Whether looking to add color to an area, taking advantage of vertical space, create privacy between neighbors, or perhaps even lower your energy bill, there is no doubt that a green curtain garden will be a talking point among friends and guests.

What is a Green Curtain?

A green curtain is simply a curtain made of plants. These green curtain gardens can be grown in a wide range of locations: indoors, outdoors, and on small apartment balconies.

Plantings of vining plants or vegetables can be made directly into the ground outdoors or in containers. Large trellises are used vertically to create an area of shade as the vines grow. In turn, the living plant curtain adds additional enjoyment to the space and can be quite useful for cooling in regions which receive especially hot weather.

How to Plant a Green Curtain Garden

Planting green curtains will require some planning. First, you’ll need to assess space. Living plant curtains will require a quality growing medium and a location that receives full sun. Those choosing to grow in containers will need to select large pots with ample room for root growth. Drainage holes will also be a necessity, as standing water in containers may lead to the decline of plants.

Choosing the right plant type is important when growing a curtain made of plants. Though annual vining plants are very popular, those wanting to create a more permanent structure may opt for growing perennial plants. Vining or trailing houseplants work well indoors.

Transplanting vines for the green curtain will ensure a good start to the growing season. However, those on a budget may also consider starting vining plants from seeds. Quick growing annual vines are an excellent option for more immediate curtain creation.

Regardless of the plants selected, you will need to secure a strong trellis for the plants to climb. Trellis netting may be sufficient for smaller vines. However, many plants become very heavy as they grow. In many cases, strong wooden trellises may be the best option. This is especially important as trellis failure may potentially cause harm or injury. Likewise, you could construct something from which to hang multiple plants from. As they grow, the foliage will create a curtain of green.

Growing a potted angel vine, Muehlenbeckia complexa, is easy if you can provide partial to full sun. This New Zealand native only grows about 6 inches (15 cm.) tall but quickly spreads to a much wider 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.). 

Also known as wire grass, it has any airy appearance due to its wiry stems and small, shiny leaves. While it is a groundcover in nature, container grown angel vine plants will cascade and spill over a pot’s edges beautifully. It can also be easily grown on a trellis or topiary. 

Growing Angel Vine in a Pot

Angel vine is typically grown as an annual outdoors but is adaptable in a container as a houseplant or outdoors too. In frost-free climates, angel vine in a container can be grown year-round. 

Plants are hardy to zone 7, 0 to 10 degrees F. (-18 to -12 C.). If you are in a climate where you can grow this plant year-round, but that still reaches the freezing point, keep in mind that thinner terra cotta or concrete pots may crack outdoors in the freeze/thaw cycles. 

It is safer to use thicker pots, and also bigger pots that contain more soil, to survive the freezing temperatures more easily without damage. The greater amount of soil will also insulate the plants more and help ensure that the plant will survive if you are intending to keep the plant outdoors but are in a marginally hardy zone for this plant. 

Give your angel vine plenty of sun for best results. As far as watering goes, these plants like a moist soil, but it must be well drained. A good all-purpose potting soil mix works beautifully for angel vine. Depending on the size of the pot, allow the top 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) to dry out before watering thoroughly again.

For best results, be sure to fertilize during the growing season. Many different types of fertilizers can be used, but the simplest and easiest method is to use a good time-release fertilizer. It can be mixed into the soil and provides a steady supply of nutrients throughout the season. 

This plant will have a naturally unruly look because of the wiry stems, but if you want a tidier appearance, or a smaller plant, you can prune it back at any time in the growing season. This will cause the plant to have a denser growing habit. 

Wisteria is notable for its lovely blooms, but what if you have a bad-smelling wisteria? As bizarre as a smelly wisteria sounds (the wisteria smells like cat pee actually), it isn’t uncommon to hear the question, “Why does my wisteria smell bad?”. So why on earth do you have a bad-smelling wisteria?

Why Does My Wisteria Smell Bad?

Flowering vines are much sought after for their ability to cover unsightly areas, provide privacy, give shade, and for their beauty. A commonly planted vine that encompasses all these attributes is the wisteria.

Wisteria vines often have the bad reputation of monopolizing a garden space. This is true of Chinese and Japanese varieties, so many gardeners opt for ‘Amethyst Falls’ wisteria. This variety is more easily trained to a trellis or arbor and it blooms heavily a few times each growing season.

While there is much information out there regarding this cultivar, there is one tiny little detail that is often omitted, purposely or not. What is this great secret? As beautiful as ‘Amethyst Falls’ may be, this cultivar is the culprit, the reason for a smelly wisteria. It’s true – this cultivar of wisteria smells like cat pee.

Help, My Wisteria Stinks!

Well, now that you know why you have a bad-smelling wisteria, I imagine you would like to know if there is anything you can do about it. The unfortunate truth is that while some gardeners think this stench might be the result of a pH imbalance, the reality is that ‘Amethyst Falls’ just plain smells like cat urine.

The good news is that the foliage isn’t the guilty party, meaning the plant only reeks when in bloom. It’s really a case of either live with a wisteria that smells bad for the short time the vine is blossoming, move it to a further away area of the garden, or just get rid of it.

Another bonus regarding ‘Amethyst Falls’ is it is great for attracting hummingbirds. Hummingbirds, I might add, have very little sense of smell and are not the least disturbed by the stench of the blooms.

Dutchman’s pipe, named due to its resemblance to a smoking pipe, is a vigorous climbing vine. While it has many beneficial uses in the garden, does Dutchman’s pipe harm butterflies? Turns out that Dutchman’s pipe toxicity to butterflies depends upon the variety. Most Aristolochia and butterflies work well; however, Giant Dutchman’s pipe is another matter entirely.

About Aristolochia and Butterflies

Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla) is a vining plant native to eastern North America and thrives in USDA zones 4 to 8. There are a number of other types of Aristolochia, most of which are sought after as a primary food source for the Pipevine swallowtail butterfly. It seems that the aristolochic acids of these plants serves as a feeding stimulant as well as provides a habitat for eggs with a feeding ground for the resulting larvae.

The aristolochic acid is toxic to the butterflies but generally works more as a predator deterrent. When the butterflies ingest the toxin, it renders them poisonous to would-be predators. The severity of Dutchman’s pipe toxicity varies among the cultivars.

Does Dutchman’s Pipe Harm Butterflies?

Unfortunately, the Dutchman’s pipe butterfly does not differentiate between varieties of Dutchman’s pipe. One variety, Giant Dutchman’s pipe (Artistolochia gigantea), is a tropical vine that is too toxic for Pipevine swallowtails. Many gardeners choose to plant this particular variety due to its fancy blossoms; however, this is a mistake in the interest of providing food and habitat for butterflies.

Giant Dutchman’s pipe entices Pipevine swallowtails into laying their eggs on the plant. The larvae may hatch, but once they begin to feed on the foliage, they die soon after.

If you are interested in hosting butterflies, stick with another variety of Dutchman’s pipe vine. The flowers may not be as extravagant, but you will be doing your part to save the waning varieties of butterflies left on our planet.