Water lilies are among the most beautiful and romantic plants, partly thanks to the famed paintings by Claude Monet. But the giant water lilies are especially spectacular with their enormous leaves, sometimes up to 6 feet (2 m) in diameter. Read on to learn more about these amazing plants.

The Amazon Water Lily

It is hard to understand just how huge the leaves of the Amazon water lily (Victoria amazonica) are without seeing them. Fortunately, they are available for viewing in botanical gardens around the country. It helps to call to mind someone you know who is 6 feet tall (1.8 m.) since that is the potential diameter of each of the large leaves. The edges of the leaves are turned up, creating a sort of shallow cup.

The leaves “float” on the surface of the water, supported by spongy veins. Their size allows the plant to take in the maximum sunshine possible. The underside of each leaf has spines, thought to be a way of preventing fish from nibbling on them. Leaves are anchored by submerged stalks up to 26 feet (7.9 m) long that embed themselves in the lake or river bottom. 

Victoria Water Lily

Given that the native range of this large lily is in South America, from Bolivia in the south to Guyana in the north, one might wonder why it is called the Victoria water lily. The name was chosen in 1837 as a way to honor Queen Victoria of England who had ascended to the throne that year. 

The entire Victorian era was named after the Queen, and it was during this era that exotic plants, including the Victoria water lily became popular in cultivation. 

Giant Water Lily Facts

A giant water lily in bloom is exotic and dramatic. Like the leaves, the flowers are oversize, dinner plate-size blooms that open at night and last a few days only. 

The first day of a bloom, the white lily opens in the evening as a female flower, offering a sweet fragrance of pineapple. The blossom creates its own warmth, thought to be a giant water lily adaptation that lures scarab beetles to visit the flower. 

The second evening, the blossom closes, trapping the beetles inside. At this time the flower changes from female to male, the petals turn pink and begin to produce pollen. That evening, the blossom opens again, releasing the beetles. They are covered in the flower’s pollen and fly away to pollinate female flowers. 

If you have a pond or water feature in a sunny location, you have everything you need for growing lotus root. Commonly known as a water lily, the taproot of Nelumbo nucifera is a good source of fiber and carbohydrates, as well as a number of essential vitamins and minerals. When cultivating lotus root for food, this Asian native is both versatile and delicious.

How to Grow Lotus Root

Cultivating lotus root for food is easy. These low maintenance water plants are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 10. In Northern climates the rhizomatous roots require protection from freezing temperatures. This can be accomplished by sinking roots into deeper water or storing roots inside for the winter. 

Follow these simple steps for the summer cultivation of lotus root vegetable:

• Plant lotus root vegetable rhizomes10 to 24 inches (25 to 64 cm.) deep in a sunny pond or water-garden container. Space lotus roots 4 feet (1.2 m.) apart. In Northern climates where freezing is an issue, place the roots in large planting baskets which can be moved to deeper water during the winter.
• Use a humus-rich soil, compost or a mix of loam and manure for growing lotus root.
• Anchor the rhizomatous roots with bags of sand. 
• Routinely fertilize this edible water-lily plant.
• Deadhead plants and remove yellowed leaves as needed. 
• Check lotus root plants for aphids and red spider mites. If present, spray off the leaves with a strong stream of water. Pond fish can help control these pests.
• When cultivating lotus root for food, lifting and harvesting roots can be done anytime during the year. However, waiting until the foliage begins to die back is recommended as this is the best time to replant the smaller roots.

Lotus Root Uses

All parts of the lotus root plant are edible. The stems are consumed like a green vegetable and the leaves can be substituted for flour-based wraps. But the primary reason for growing lotus root is the starchy tuber. 

Young, fresh lotus root has a crunchy texture and sweet flavor when consumed raw. Immature roots can be identified by their white to purplish skin. Older roots turn brown with darker speckles. When harvesting mature lotus root for food, longer cooking times are used to produce a tender starchy vegetable similar to potatoes. 

The root of the lotus plant has star-patterned air pockets which adds visual appeal when sliced thin and fried as chips or when added to stir-fry dishes. Like potatoes, the lotus root vegetable can be prepared using a number of cooking techniques:

• Boiling
• Braising
• Deep Frying 
• Mashing 
• Sautéing
• Steaming
• Stir-frying

Since you’ve worked so hard in the garden this summer we want to show off the fruits (and veggies) of your labor! We invite you to join the Gardening Know How Virtual Harvest Show by submitting photos of your harvest!

Given the right conditions, water lilies are easy to grow and low maintenance. They add seasonal color to garden ponds with little effort. Even with good care, some water lily pests and diseases may become an issue. These are the most common issues and what to do about them. 

Water Lily Problems - Pests

The more common problems with water lilies you are likely to see in your pond are from pests rather than diseases: 

• Water lily aphids. You’ll know if you have aphids. They appear as little black spots all over aquatic plants, not just water lilies, and can ultimately cause yellowing and curling. Remove by rinsing leaves or submerge leaves for a day or two to drown aphids. Add lady bugs to your garden to eat them. 
• Water lily beetles. These are small, brown beetles that create holes in leaves. Remove pondside vegetation in winter where they hibernate. Hose down leaves and hand-remove beetles. 
• China mark moth. Look for oval shapes cut from leaves. The larvae cut pieces of leaf and cover themselves with it on the underside. Remove them by hand or destroy affected leaves. 
• Midges. These little fly larvae cut wavy lines in water lily leaves. You can remove them by hand, but they are difficult to see. Use mosquito dunks, which contain a bacteria type only harmful to the larvae, to manage midges. 

Water Lily Issues - Diseases

A couple of diseases may infect your water lily plants, but these aren’t usually major issues if you buy the right plants. Many hybrids are resistant to most diseases.

• Crown rot. You can find water lilies resistant to this fungal disease. It appears as yellow, curling foliage and rotting flower buds. If you do see this disease, it’s best to remove and destroy the plant. 
• Leaf spot. Less serious is leaf spot, which causes red or gray-brown spots on leaves. Remove affected leaves. 

Preventing and Managing Water Lily Problems

Prevention is the best way to deal with these few issues that may plague your water lilies. Start with healthy, disease-resistant plants. Examine them carefully for signs of insects or disease before adding to the pond. 

Give plants plenty of space for airflow, dividing as needed. Keep the area clean by trimming off dead foliage. Dying leaves are often the targets of pests. Add predatory insects and fish to your garden to manage pest populations: lady bugs, lacewings, and paradise fish. 

You may use chemical pesticides or fungicides to treat plants, but leave them as a last resort. These chemicals harm the natural environment and may kill native species and helpful insects and plants.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Adding flowering pond plants to natural and manmade water features can be an easy way to quickly beautify a space with lush greenery and vibrant bursts of seasonal color. Growing these ornamental plants requires careful attention to light needs, water temperatures, intensity of direct light, and their size at maturity. Learning more about the various types of aquatic flowers available to gardeners can help determine whether or not including flowering water plants is ideal for your own water display. 

Indoor Pond Flowers

Though most people consider growing pond flowers outdoors, several species are actually well suited for use as interesting houseplants. They include those that grow exclusively in water, like philodendrons, spider plants, and water hyacinths. Aquatic flowering plants are also quite popular with those who maintain elaborate fresh and/or saltwater fish tanks with live plants adding to a thriving and diverse ecosystem. Some of the most popular varieties of aquatic flowers for fish tanks include fanwort, java moss, and Amazon sword.

Outdoor Pond Flowers

If you’re wanting to incorporate flowering water plants into outdoor spaces, you should always consider the potential environmental impacts first. This includes potential for harm to native plant and animal species, as well as heeding local regulations related to invasive species or noxious weeds. 

Depending upon the type, flowering pond plants can be found growing in the water, on the surface of the water, and/or near its edge. These specific growth requirements are essential in making certain that plants have the best chance of success in their new pond. Many surface growing plants, like Amazon frogbit and water lilies, can quickly overtake smaller bodies of water and will require frequent maintenance. Other popular pond plants include hornwort, creeping Jenny, and water lotus.

Larger Pond Plants

If you’re looking to increase visual interest around natural ponds, you may want to consider larger species of aquatic flowering plants. Cattails are just one example of aquatic plants which can reach great heights near the water’s edge. Smaller, dwarf varieties can also be found through specialized aquatic plant nurseries. 

Another visually interesting specimen, pickerelweed, is prized for its large purple flower spikes which begin blooming late in the summer. Many gardeners praise this ornamental flower for its robust growth habit and hardiness to cold. 

There are pros and cons to putting a pond in full sun. A perfectly situated garden pond will have a little bit of shade with some full-sun areas. This gives you a chance to put in some full sun plants around pond margins and floating right in the water. Here are some ideas to get you started.

Can a Pond Be in Full Sun? 

Many people picture a perfect pond ringed by weeping willows and other trees that provide some shade. Ideally, a garden pond will have a mix of sun and shade. Between four and six hours of full sun should be fine. 

The right balance of sun and shade makes for a healthy pond for a few reasons. Fish benefit from some cooling shade. A little shade will also keep algae growth under control. Too much sun, and it will take over. You can also find a mix of shade and sun plants to grow in your pond if you have both. 

Full Sun Aquatic Plants

For the sunnier areas of your pond, there are plenty of options. Use plants around the edges of the pond, but also select some full sun floating pond plants. These will make your pond more attractive and help keep out algal growth.

• Water Lily. Water lilies thrive in sun. They also help solve some of the problems associated with a full-sun pond. Their flat leaves provide shade for fish and outcompete algae. 
• Lotus. Lotus plants also float on the pond and enjoy full sun. They’ll provide gorgeous, large blooms for the surface of the pond. 
• Iris. Irises love full sun too, and they tolerate some soggier soil. Plant them around the edges of your pond for spring and early summer color. 
• Rushes. Several types of grass-like rushes will grow around the edges of a pond in full sun, creating habitat for wildlife. Try needle spikerush and corkscrew rush. 
• Pitcher Plant. This is a unique carnivorous bog plant many gardeners overlook. It will grow well on the sunny, wet margins of a pond. 
• Taro. Also known as elephant ears, this tropical plant grows well along pond margins. It can be submerged in water as long as the leaves are above the surface. 
• Canadian Pondweed. For a submersible plant that enjoys full sun, try Canadian pondweed. It helps control algae by removing nutrients from the water. 
• Azolla. This unique plant is a floating fern. It’s green, like most ferns, but when grown in full sun will turn pink to red. This is not native to North America and may be considered invasive. Keep it out of ponds connected to other waterways.

Creeping burhead plants (Echinodorus cordifolius) are members of the water plantain family and are commonly used in freshwater aquariums and outdoor fishponds. Echinodorus creeping burhead is native to the eastern half of the United States. It grows submerged in the mud and shallow waters of slow moving streams and ponds.

What is Creeping Burhead

Echinodorus creeping burhead is an aquatic plant with glossy green leaves that grow close together to form a clump. The attractive leaves make this plant ideal for use as a centerpiece in aquariums and fish tanks. 

When planted outdoors creeping burhead plants can reach four feet (about 1 m.) tall and produce white flowers during the summer months. In some states this plant is endangered but in other areas it has become an invasive weed. It's advisable to contact your county Cooperative Extension office or your state's department of natural resources to check on the local status before planting it outdoors or removing it from the wild.

Growing Creeping Burhead in Aquariums

When totally immersed, it is a robust plant with bright green leaves. For most varieties, creeping burhead plant care is fairly easy. They do best in a shady location that receives less than 12 hours of light per day. Longer periods of light can result in leaves growing quickly and reaching the top of the aquarium. Periodically pruning the roots also helps control the size of creeping burhead plants.

In the aquarium setting plants enjoy temperatures between 50-81?. (10-27?.). Higher temperatures stimulate more growth than cooler ones. They do best when water pH stabilizes between 6.2 to 7.1. 

Echinodorus creeping burhead is available at pet stores, aquarium shops, and online aquatic plant sites. Aquarists and pond enthusiast can choose from several varieties:

• Aureus – A beautiful variety with yellow to golden heart shaped leaves. Can be more expensive and difficult to maintain than other varieties.
• Fluitans – Definitely a plant for larger aquariums. This variety has longer, narrower leaves which can reach 16 inches (41 cm.) long. Unlike other varieties, the leaves tend to lay on surface rather than protruding out of the water.
• Marble Queen – This smaller variety only reaches heights of eight inches (20 cm.), but its popularity is due to its green and white marbled leaves. The mottling intensifies under brighter light.
• Ovalis – An easy to grow plant suitable for smaller aquariums or shallow ponds. The diamond shaped leaves grow 14 inches (36 cm.) tall.

Building and maintaining a saltwater aquarium requires some expert knowledge. These miniature ecosystems are not straightforward or as simple as those with fresh water. There are many things to learn, and one of the important elements is choosing the right saltwater aquarium plants.

What is a Saltwater Aquarium?

Learning about a saltwater aquarium for beginners is fine, but understand before you dive in that these ecosystems require meticulous and regular care, or the fish will die. Be prepared to put in lots of time and effort.

A saltwater aquarium is simply a tank or container with saltwater into which you put species that live in that type of environment. It’s like a small slice of the ocean. You can create an ecosystem specific to a region or type of environment, like a Caribbean reef.

Any saltwater aquarium needs a few essentials: the tank, a filter and skimmer, a substrate, a heater, fish, and of course, plants.

Choosing Plants for Saltwater Aquariums

If you’re ready to start building a saltwater aquarium, you will have a lot of supplies to buy. The fun part is choosing the animals and the plants. Here are some popular saltwater aquarium plants that will grow readily in your new ecosystem:

• Halimeda - This is an attractive green plant with leaves like chains of coins. Since it grows throughout the oceans, halimeda is a good choice for just about any type of environment you create.
• Green finger algae - Any algae type is good for your aquarium because it acts as a natural filter. This one has fleshy, finger-like leaves resembling coral.
• Spaghetti algae - This is common in saltwater aquariums because it is fairly easy to grow. It is also a good source of food for fish that eat algae. It provides visual interest with its clump of noodle-like leaves.
• Mermaid’s fan - This plant looks like the name suggests, like a delicate green fan sprouting from the bottom of the tank. These can be difficult to grow if you don’t have the right nutrient balance, though. They need calcium and limited phosphate and nitrate.
• Shaving bush plant - This is a good companion for mermaid’s fan because it absorbs excess phosphates and nitrates. It has a central stem with a bunch of thin leaves, resembling a shaving brush.
• Sea grass - Essential in coral reefs, sea grass grows in clumps like grass and provides habitat and shelter for juvenile fish.
• Red grape algae - For something different, try red grape algae. The air bladders are red and round and resemble grapes.
• Blue hypnea algae - For a real visual punch, this type of algae delivers. It grows in dense clumps and is iridescent blue. You’ll need a courser substrate for its roots to grip.

Both fresh and saltwater aquarium enthusiasts know the value of introducing live plants into tank habitats. Creating an underwater garden, of sorts, can add distinguishing beauty to the aquascape. For many, however, the process of choosing which plants to add may feel overwhelming.

Learning more about specific characteristics of these plants can help tank owners make better informed purchases, as well as help them to create well designed and beautiful setting. Among the most popular plants for use in tanks is Amazon Sword (Echinodorus amazonicus).

This plant is an exceptional option for those looking to add vibrant greenery or those looking for a serious attention-grabber in their tanks. 

Amazon Sword Plant Facts

Before deciding to grow this plant, it’s important to learn about the needs of Amazon Sword in an aquarium. Coming in a wide range of sizes, you’ll want to select plants that are well-suited to their use – taller plants make excellent background fillers, for example. While some Amazon Sword aquatic plants have very broad leaves, others are more slender and narrow.

It is also important to note that many different varieties are sold under the same common name.

How to Grow Amazon Sword

Fortunately, for those growing it for the first time, learning how to grow Amazon aquatic plants is relatively simple. This makes them a viable option for even novice tank owners.

First, you will need to obtain the plants. Due to their popularity, it is likely that they can be found locally. However, those unable to do so can easily find the plants online. Always make certain to purchase healthy plants without any signs of damage, disease, or browned leaves.

When planting into the tank, arrange the plant to accommodate its full potential size. Amazon Sword aquatic plants will grow well whether fully or partially submerged in the water. However, there will be other key components necessary in order for the plants to truly thrive. This includes maintenance of proper pH, water temperature, and light levels.

Tank pH should range between 6.5 and 7.5, while temperatures should range between 72 and 82 degrees F. (22-28 C.). Amazon Sword plants will also require at least 10 hours of bright light each day.

Beyond placement in the tank, Amazon Sword plant care is relatively simple. After transplant into the aquarium substrate or gravel, growers may notice some yellowed leaves. These can be removed carefully from the base of the leaf stem.

What is an Ozelot Sword? Ozelot Sword aquarium plants (Echinodorus ‘Ozelot’) display long, wavy-edged green or red leaves marked with bright marbling. Ozelot Sword plants are prolific growers that spread by rhizomes and side shoots, often producing a new leaf every week.

In a fish tank, it is an undemanding plant that requires almost no care once established. Read on to learn more about this aquarium plant.

Growing Ozelot Sword in a Fish Tank

Ozelot Sword is an ideal plant for beginners and grows well even in sub-optimum conditions (although not quite as fast). The plant is amphibious, meaning it can be either fully or partially submersed. Very little care is required, but the following tips may help with Ozelot Sword plant care:

• Plant Ozelot Sword in 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) of aquarium gravel or other substrate, as the root system can be extensive. You can always use more substrate in the back of the aquarium, then slope it toward the front. For healthy growth, the substrate shouldn’t be too large or too small.
• Ozelot Sword aquarium plants thrive in moderate to high lighting, although it is adaptable to lower light levels. Water temperature should be between 73 and 83 degrees F. (23-28 C.).
• The plant may develop yellow leaves after planting. Just trim the leaves from the bottom of the plant but be careful not to disturb the roots. Leaves that become covered with algae should also be removed. If yellow leaves are a continuing problem, aquarium conditions may be poor, or it may mean the plant needs more nutrients. Look for an aquarium plant fertilizer containing iron.
• Once the plant is established and growing well, you can propagate new Ozelot Sword aquarium plants from the rhizomes or from the side shoots that develop on leaves.

Rotala rotundifolia, commonly known as aquatic Rotala plant, is an attractive, versatile plant with small, rounded leaves. Rotala is valued for its easy growth habit, interesting color, and the texture it adds to aquariums. Read on and learn how to grow Rotala in aquariums.

Roundleaf Toothcup Info

Aquatic Rotala is native to Asia where it grows in swamps, along riverbanks, on the edges of rice paddies, and other moist locations. Aquatic Rotala plants grow in aquariums of nearly any size and are most attractive in small groupings. However, the soft, fragile stems may be damaged by large or active fish. Plants are also known as roundleaf toothcup, dwarf Rotala, pink Rotala, or pink baby tears.

Rotala in aquariums grows rapidly in bright light, especially with CO2 supplementation. The plant may turn back down when it reaches the surface of the water, creating a lush, cascading appearance.

How to Grow Rotala

Plant in aquariums in regular substrate such as small gravel or sand. Rotala in aquariums are light green to red, depending on the intensity of the light. Bright light brings out the beauty and color. In too much shade, Rotala aquatic plants may be long and lanky with a greenish yellow color.

Rotala rotundifolia care is easy. Rotala grows rapidly and can be pruned to prevent the plant from becoming too bushy. Be sure to prune as needed to allow sufficient space between plants, as fish love to swim in the jungle-like growth.

Aquarium water temperature is ideally between 62 and 82 degrees F. (17-28 C.). Check the pH regularly and maintain the level between 5 and 7.2.

Rotala is easy to propagate for more tanks or to share with aquarium loving friends. Just cut a 4 inch (10 cm.) length of stem. Remove the lower leaves and plant the stem in aquarium substrate. Roots will develop quickly.

What are crypts? The Cryptocoryne genus, usually known simply as “crypts,” consists of at least 60 species native to the tropical areas of Asia and New Guinea, including Indonesia, Malaysia, and Vietnam. Botanists and aquatic crypt collectors think there are probably many species left to be discovered.

Aquatic crypts have been a popular aquarium plant for several decades. Some exotic crypt aquatic plants are difficult to locate, but many are easy-to-grow species in a variety of colors and readily available in most aquarium stores.

Cryptocoryne Plant Information

Aquatic crypts are hardy, adaptable plants ranging in color from deep forest green to pale green, olive, mahogany, and pink with sizes ranging from 2 inches (5 cm.) to 20 inches (50 cm.). In their natural habitat, plants may develop interesting, slightly smelly blooms (spadix), resembling jack-in-the-pulpit above the surface of the water.

Some species prefer sun while others thrive in shade. Similarly, many grow in fast running water while others are happiest in relatively still water. Crypts can be separated into four general categories, depending on habitat.

• Most familiar crypt aquatic plants grow in relatively still water along streams and lazy rivers. The plants are nearly always submerged.
• Certain types of crypt aquatic plants thrive in swampy, forest-like habitats, including acidic peat bogs.
• The genus also includes those that live in fresh or brackish waters of tidal zones.
• Some aquatic crypts live in areas that are flooded part of the year and dry part of the year. This type of aquatic crypt generally goes dormant during the dry season and comes back to life when flood waters return.

Growing Crypts Aquatic Plants

Cryptocoryne plants in an aquarium are generally slow growing. They reproduce primarily by offsets or runners that can be replanted or given away. Most will perform well with neutral pH and slightly soft water.

Most of the crypts plants for aquarium growing do well with low light. Adding some floating plants can also help provide a little shade.

Depending on the variety, its placement can be in the foreground or middle of the aquarium for smaller species or the background for larger ones.

Simply plant them in a sand or gravel substrate and that’s it.

If you are an aquarium enthusiast, you might already know about aquatic Limnophila. These neat little plants are native to tropical and subtropical regions. They are considered a federal noxious weed, however, so don't let your Limnophila water plants escape captivity, or you become part of the problem.

About Aquatic Limnophila

It is very common that exotic plants arrive in an area and then become nuisances when they overpopulate wild regions and out compete native plants. Limnophila plants are just such aliens. There are over 40 varieties in the genus, which are either perennial or annual. They grow in wet conditions and are very uncomplaining and low maintenance.

Growing Limnophila in aquariums is a common scenario. Since they do well in such conditions and need little specialized care, they make excellent cover for fish. The plants in the genus vary in their form and may be erect, prostrate, arching, and branched or un-branched.

Both underwater and air grown leaves are arranged in whorls. The herbaceous leaves are either lance shaped or feather like. The flowers also differ by species with some occurring in the leaf axils and others supported on an inflorescence. Most species have tubular flowers.

Limnophila Varieties

Limnophila plants are native to Africa, Australia, Asia, and the Pacific Islands. One of the more commonly used in aquariums is Limnophila sessiliflora. It has lacy leaves and can spread across the bottom of a tank quite rapidly. It is also very tolerant of lower light.

Limnophila heterophylla is another common aquarium plant that is extremely hardy and adaptable. Some other species in the genus are:

• L. chinensis
• L. rugosa
• L. tenera
• L. connata
• L. indica
• L. repens
• L. barteri
• L. erecta
• L. borealis
• L. dasyantha

Using Limnophila in Aquariums

Limnophila water plants’ most vital growing requirements are heat and some light. As tropical plants, they cannot tolerate cold temperatures, but they can grow under artificial lights. Most are fast growing and reach no taller than 12 inches (31 cm.). The common aquatic species also performs well without a CO2 injection.

Most can grow either fully submerged or partially. Nutrient rich, clean water is preferred by the plants. A pH of 5.0 to 5.5 is best. You can pinch the plant to keep it a certain size. Keep the pinched parts to start new plants. When grown in the aquarium, the plant rarely forms flowers but if it is partly immersed, expect tiny purple flowers.

You aren’t likely to be growing Aponogeton unless you keep an aquarium in your house or a pond in your garden. What are Aponogeton plants? Aponogetons are a truly aquatic genus with a variety of different species that are planted in fish tanks or outdoor ponds.

If you are putting in a fish tank or garden pond, it’s time you learn about the Aponogeton genus. While some tropical plants are difficult to care for, growing Aponogeton which you buy from the aquarium is quite easy, even for a beginner. 

What are Aponogeton Plants?

Aponogeton is the name of this genus of aquatic plants. Included in the genus are a wide variety of plants native to tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, Asia, and Australia. Many of these varieties are simply too large or require too much of a resting period to be used as Aponogeton in aquariums.

Aponogeton aquarium plants are unique in that they grow from tubercles, starchy bulbs similar to garden bulbs. These bulbs store sufficient energy reserves to help the plant through the growing season. Healthy tubercles can live in the sand for several months, even growing foliage; but to keep growing, they require a rich substrate that provides adequate nourishment.

Growing Aponogeton in Aquariums

The most popular (and least expensive) Aponogeton aquarium plants are Aponogeton crispus, native to Sri Lanka in southeastern Asia. Crispus grows in the wild in running waters and seasonal ponds, where it goes dormant in the dry season.

Crispus is a submerged aquatic plant with a small, round rhizome. These plants are usually sold as "wonder bulbs" in hobby or aquarium stores and may be hybrids such as crispus x natans. A true crispus will develop reddish leaves that do not float, while hybrids have green leaves that may be floating.

Crispus hybrids are desirable plants for someone just getting started with aquatic horticulture since plant care is quite easy. These varieties are very undemanding and will even produce flowers as long as they are given a fairly clean environment and some lighting. Hybrids often do not need to pass through a lengthy dormant period.

Aponogeton undulates and Aponogeton natans are other potential aquarium plants that require minimal Aponogeton plant care. If you opt for fancier aquarium plants, you may find that they have more difficult care requirements. Aponogeton ulvaceous, for example, is an exceptionally beautiful species. As a large, lime-green plant with wide, wavy-edged leaves, it needs a strong water flow and requires a significant rest period.

Aquariums are generally made for inside the house, but why not have a fish tank outside? An aquarium or other water feature in the garden is relaxing and adds a whole new level of visual interest. A backyard aquarium can be elaborate and costly, but it can also be simple and DIY.

Outdoor Aquarium Ideas

You can go big with an outdoor aquatic ecosystem, but a small tank or pond is great too. Consider your budget, the amount of time you can put into building and maintaining it, and your skill level before choosing a project.

Here are some ideas to get you started:

• Trough tank - A galvanized steel trough is all you need to create a lovely outdoor aquarium or pond. A horse trough is great for a big space, but a tub or bucket makes a great small ecosystem.
• Large glass jar - A glass jar or terrarium provides the basis for a simple aquarium that can sit on a tabletop, on the ground, or even in a planter among flowers.
• Barrel fishpond - Find an old barrel to repurpose into a small outdoor aquarium. You’ll need to seal it to keep the water in, of course.
• Pond with a view - A more traditional pond becomes an outdoor aquarium if you construct it with a window. Use thick, sturdy acrylic to create one or two clear sides to your pond.
• Upcycle - An outdoor aquarium can be a truly creative endeavor if you look around for materials you already have. Create a box out of scrap wood, use a large plant pot, or even make an aquatic ecosystem out of an old canoe.

Tips for Putting a Fish Tank in the Garden

Aquariums in gardens can be tricky. You may have some trial and error and a failure or two before you make it work. Consider these tips first and make a detailed plan before starting the project:

• Plan for winter if it gets cold. Either design your aquarium to be year-round or be prepared to move it indoors.
• If you do want to keep it outside all year, you can use a heater for the colder months.
• Avoid putting your aquarium under trees or you will be forever cleaning out debris.
• Also, avoid a location that has no shade or shelter. A corner of the yard with some shade from the house is a good spot.
• Use a filter to keep it clean.
• Consider putting in some aquatic plants for a complete ecosystem.

Looking for a low maintenance but attractive plant for your home aquarium? Check out the Hygrophila genus of aquatic plants. There are many species, and while not all are cultivated and easy to find, you’ll be able to track down several options from your local aquarium supplier or nursery. Hygrophila plant care is easy in freshwater tanks.

What are Hygrophila Aquarium Plants?

Hygrophila in an aquarium makes a nice decorative element, adding depth, color, texture, and places for your fish to hide and explore. The genus contains several species of aquatic flowering plants that grow mostly submerged in fresh water. They are native to tropical regions. Some of the species you’ll easily find include:

• H. Difformis: This is native to Asia and is great for beginners. It grows up to 12 inches (31 cm.) tall and helps prevent the formation of algae. The leaves are fern-like.
• H. corymbose: Also easy to grow, this species does require a little pruning. Without taking off new growth regularly, it will begin to look bushy and messy.
• H. costata: This is the only species of hygrophila native to North America. It needs bright light.
• H. polysperma: One of the most common species in aquarium cultivation, you’ll find this plant in most supply stores. It is native to India and very easy to grow. Unfortunately, it has become a problematic invasive in Florida, but it works well in aquariums.

Do Fish Eat Hygrophila?

Fish species that are herbivores will likely eat the hygrophila you plant in your freshwater aquarium. If you are mostly interested in cultivating plants, choose fish that won’t do too much damage.

On the other hand, you can plant hygrophila and other types of plants with the intent of feeding your fish with them. Hygrophila grows pretty fast, so if you plant enough in the aquarium, you should find that it keeps up with the rate of fish feeding.

The species of fish you choose also makes a difference. Certain fish grow rapidly and eat a lot. Avoid silver dollars, monos, and Buenos Aires tetra, all of which will devour any plants you put in the aquarium.

How to Grow Hygrophila

Hygrophila fish tank growing is simple enough. In fact, it’s hard to make mistakes with these plants, which are very forgiving. It can tolerate most types of water, but you may want to add a trace mineral supplement once in a while.

For substrate, use gravel, sand, or even soil. Plant into the substrate and watch it grow. Most species look and grow best with occasional pruning. Also, be sure that your plants have a good light source. 

These species of water plants are not native to the U.S., so avoid using them outdoors unless you can contain them. For instance, grow hygrophila in containers that you set in your pond to make sure they don’t spread and take over native wetlands.

For many “water gardeners,” the addition of live plants in tanks or pond environments is an enjoyable part of designing a beautiful waterscape. However, some plants are more suited to this use than others.

Though finding adaptable and easy-to-grow plants is often a priority, it should also be noted that some species may cause more issues than good. The use of Brazilian waterweed in aquariums is just one example of how a single planting may come to overtake its aquatic home. With this in mind, many are left to ask, “Is waterweed invasive?”

Anacharis Plant Info

What is Brazilian waterweed? Brazilian waterweed (Egeria densa syn. Elodea densa), also known as anacharis and elodea, is a perennial aquatic plant that can grow to lengths of up to 10 feet (3 m.). Native to South America, the anacharis plant has been studied for its potential ability to remove pollutants from water sources. However, its most common attribute is its ability to quickly grow and reproduce.

Brazilian waterweed in aquariums and ponds can quickly spread, as floating stem pieces are able to develop roots from leaf nodes. When left unmanaged, invasive waterweed plants can quickly form thick mats over the surface of the water. In fact, the Brazilian waterweed plant is illegal in at least 20 different U.S. states. Before planting, check the laws and regulations regarding this plant where you live.

Anacharis Plant Care

Those who would like to know how to grow anacharis will be pleased to know that planting is quite easy. First, growers will need to locate a transplant. These plants can most often be found at specialty aquatic nurseries.

Make certain to choose plants that appear green and lush. Brazilian waterweed can be planted directly into a tank or pond substrate or simply placed on the surface of the water. If choosing to add this to a small water garden, it’s best to plant in aquatic containers.

Due to their aggressive habit, it will be essential that this plant is routinely trimmed or pruned. This is especially true if it is growing in tandem with aquatic animals like fish, frogs, or turtles.

Those who keep fish, whether in an aquarium or a backyard pond, know the importance of keeping the water clean, minimizing algae, and feeding fish well. A tiny, floating plant called common duckweed (Lemna minor) can do all that and more.

While considered a nuisance in some places, its positive attributes can outweigh the negative, and many who keep fish want to learn more about it and how to grow duckweed in ponds or aquariums.

What is Duckweed?

Found virtually all over the world in aquatic environments, duckweed is one of the smallest flowering plants, measuring 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch (2-3 mm.) long. It has one to three light green leaves with a flat, oval shape. It thrives in stagnant water, floating in dense colonies.

Its rapid reproduction by division can be either a boon or a bust. As fish food, the quick growth provides an economical and nutritious food source. It absorbs harmful nitrates and other chemicals from the water, thereby improving water quality and because of its spreading canopy, reduces the light that fuels algae.

However, if left unchecked, duckweed’s growth can quickly overtake a pond, depriving oxygen to fish and sunlight to lower aquatic plants.

Growing Duckweed in Aquariums

Growing duckweed in aquariums is easy. It is not a fussy plant to grow and derives most of its nourishment from the air. Duckweed is favored by goldfish, tilapia, koi fish, and other fish varieties and provides a nutritious and protein packed food source.

To grow duckweed in an aquarium, it often can be purchased in a pet store. Duckweed will tolerate low to high light and soft or hard water. The temperature should range from 63 to 79 degrees F. (17-26 C.). For denser growth provide high quality, full spectrum light and add trace minerals during water changes. Make certain the aquarium water is calm with no current, or the rapid growth will diminish.

Duckweed also can be cultivated separately or in a tank with non-herbivore fish. To grow it separately, use a rectangular container at least 5 inches (13 cm.) deep, 18 inches (46 cm.) long, and 12 inches (31 cm.) wide with dechlorinated water, aquatic plant fertilizer, a drinking straw, pH meter, thermometer, and small net.

Clean the tank without chemicals or soap, then add water. If treated tap water is used, add plant fertilizer. Using the drinking straw, blow air into the water about every 10 minutes until the water is oxygenated. Alternatively, a water oxygenator can be used.

Check the pH level. It should be between 6 and 7.5. Add duckweed. To harvest, scoop the duckweed with the fish net or a coffee filter and transfer it to the fish tank for food.

Growing Duckweed in Ponds

In garden ponds, it is important to monitor the growth of the duckweed to prevent complete coverage of the pond, which results in oxygen depletion and fish kill. Excess duckweed can be raked or skimmed off the top of the pond.

A handful of duckweed purchased from the pet store should be adequate to start the plant growing in your garden pond.

Growing plants with aquarium fish is rewarding and watching the fish swimming peacefully in and out of the foliage is always entertaining. However, if you aren’t careful, you might end up with plant-eating fish that make short work of the beautiful foliage. Some fish gently nibble on the leaves, while others quickly uproot or devour entire plants. Keep reading for tips on avoiding fish that eat plants.

Bad Fish for Aquarium Plants

If you want to combine plants and fish, research carefully to determine what aquarium fish to avoid. You may want to skip the following fish that eat plants if it’s foliage you’d like to enjoy too:

• Silver dollars (Metynnis argenteus) are big, silvery fish native to South America. They are definitely herbivores with giant appetites. They devour entire plants in nothing flat. Silver dollars are a favorite aquarium fish, but they don’t mix well with plants.
• Buenas Aires tetras (Hyphessobrycon anisitsi) are beautiful little fish but, unlike most tetras, they are bad fish for aquarium plants. Buenas Aires tetras have hefty appetites and will power through nearly any type of aquatic plant.
• Clown loach (Chromobotia macracanthus), native to Indonesia, are beautiful aquarium fish, but as they grow, they plow up plants and chew holes in leaves. However, some plants with tough leaves, such as java fern, may survive.
• Dwarf gouramis (Trichogaster lalius) are relatively docile little fish and they usually do fine once aquarium plants have developed mature root systems. However, they may uproot immature plants.
• Cichlids (Cichlidae spp.) are a large and diverse species but they are generally bad fish for aquarium plants. In general, cichlids are rambunctious fish that enjoy uprooting and eating plants. 

Growing Plants with Aquarium Fish

Be careful not to overpopulate your aquarium. The more plant-eating fish you have in the tank, the more plants they will eat. You may be able to divert plant-eating fish from your plants. For instance, try feeding them carefully washed lettuce or small chunks of peeled cucumbers. Remove the food after a few minutes if the fish aren’t interested.

Some aquatic plants grow fast and replenish themselves so quickly that they may survive in a tank with fish that eat plants. Fast-growing aquarium plants include cabomba, water sprite, egeria, and myriophyllum.

Other plants, such as java fern, aren’t bothered by most fish. Similarly, although anubias is a slow-growing plant, fish generally pass by the tough leaves. Fish enjoy nibbling on rotala and hygrophila, but they usually won’t devour entire plants.

Experiment. In time, you’ll find out which aquarium fish to avoid with your aquarium plants.

Hemigraphis repanda, or dragon's tongue, is a small, attractive, grass-like plant sometimes used in the aquarium. Leaves are green on top with a purple to burgundy underside, offering glimpses of the unusual color combination. If you’ve used this specimen submerged in water, you’ve likely found that it does not last long. It may disintegrate quickly. Let’s find out why.

Dragon’s Tongue in an Aquarium

The dragon’s tongue aquarium plant is not fully aquatic. It enjoys and thrives in high humidity. It can exist with wet roots and occasional submersion but usually does not live for an extended time underwater. It’s easily confused with red dragon’s tongue macroalgae (Halymenia dilatata) and numerous other related plants which are fully aquatic. Try to learn exactly which type you have. This dragon’s tongue plant is sometimes sold as fully aquatic, which is a mistake, and can experience the issue discussed above.

Hemigraphis dragon's tongue is better planted in a paludarium, with both water and dry land areas for plants to grow. The paludarium is a type of vivarium or terrarium that includes a place for terrestrial plants (growing on dry land) or not completely under water.

A paludarium creates a semi-aquatic environment and usually provides a marsh-like habitat. You can include a wider variety of plants in this enclosure than in an aquarium too. Different, semi-aquatic plants such as Bromeliads, mosses, ferns, and many creeping and vining plants will grow there. These plants help purify the water as they use the nitrates and phosphates in it as fertilizer.

Double-check that your plants are aquatic before planting them in water. Research indicates that plants are sometimes labeled as aquatic when they are only semi-aquatic.

How to Grow Dragon’s Tongue

Pair this plant with others that it may complement or use more than one in the aquarium or preferably the paludarium.

You may grow a dragon’s tongue as a houseplant as well. It may bloom for you in spring or summer with small fragrant flowers. Provide filtered light to this plant and keep the soil moist. With the information above in mind, you may want to try it in the aquarium or paludarium or you may choose a different plant.

Dragon’s tongue care includes fertilization with a balanced houseplant liquid prior to and during the bloom period. Don’t fertilize during dormancy, which is in late fall and winter.

Propagate this plant by root division. You can divide it into several new plants this way. Using a dragon’s tongue in an aquarium may require frequent replacement. Get others ready to replant if the first one disintegrates.

Many consider adding live plants to aquariums, garden ponds, or other aquascapes to be essential in creating a visually appealing water garden with the desired aesthetic. Learning more about specific aquatic plants and their needs is just the first step in deciding what may or may not be a good candidate.

The cabomba fanwort, for example, should be closely considered before its introduction into the environment. It may, however, be an option for controlled settings such as fish tanks. 

What is Carolina Cabomba?

Cabomba fanwort (Cabomba caroliniana), also known as Carolina cabomba, is native to much of the southeastern United States. This aquatic plant is most commonly found in ponds, streams, and lakes where water is frequently calm and still. These freshwater perennial plants send up stems from the bottom of the body of water. Along the stems are several, fan-shaped leaves that are fully submerged.

One essential point of Carolina fanwort info to note is its ability to spread. Many may be led to question, is cabomba invasive? Fanwort plants can quickly multiply and overtake larger bodies of water. Those wishing to plant in aquariums and other small water features may be able to better control the spread of this plant. However, growing Carolina cabomba does not come completely without risk.

Growing Carolina Cabomba

After deciding to begin growing Carolina cabomba, water gardeners will need to obtain the plant. This can be done through various online specialty plant nurseries. Ideally, transplants should have several stems and a robust root system. Those living in the plants’ native range may not have difficulty maintaining it outdoors.

However, those growing indoors in tanks will need to give close attention to their needs. Specifically, those growing Carolina cabomba will likely need to increase tank light wattage for an extended amount of time each day. While cabomba fanwort is most commonly planted in the substrate at the bottom of the tank, it may also be grown as a floating plant.

If choosing to plant cabomba fanwort in outdoor ponds or water features, it does offer some benefits. This includes providing a sheltered location for fish, as well as helping to manage algae growth. Introducing the plant into an outdoor aquatic environment is similar to introducing it into fish tanks. However, outdoor growers do have the additional option of planting into pots and then submerging the container at the bottom of the body of water.

Before planting outdoors, gardeners should always reference local invasive species and noxious weed lists.

Using fertilizer around fishponds must be done with care. Excess nitrogen can cause algae to bloom, but it can also contaminate the water, which can affect fish. Fertilizing a pond with fish is part of good aquatic management and, when used appropriately, will increase overall pond health. It is best to use a fertilizer formulated for ponds or organic methods of feeding.

Is Pond Fertilizer Bad for Fish?

Aquatic plants may occasionally need feeding, but is pond fertilizer bad for fish? Fish-safe fertilizer may be purchased, or you can use your own organic methods to feed your water plants. A fertilizer for fishponds comes in tablets and will provide a slow release of nutrients that is gentle and easy on your pond's citizens.

Fish-safe fertilizer contains high levels of phosphorus. That is the middle number in a fertilizer ratio. Tabs for pond feeding are generally 10-14-8. A healthy pond will have inputs of nitrogen due to fish and bird waste. Inorganic phosphorus-only fertilizer is ideal for such a water site, as excess nitrogen can be damaging.

Assessing the needs of your pond should be done with a testing kit. Results from such a test will indicate if you have adequate levels of nitrogen or if you need to add some for plant health.

Types of Fertilizer for Fishponds

Most experts recommend an inorganic fertilizer since organic methods like manure can cause excess algae growth. There are solid tabs but also powders and sprays that are safe to use in a fishpond.

The tab varieties must be buried in the soil where they will slowly release nutrients. Liquid foods are sprayed over the shallow parts of the water, while granular formulas can be suspended in the liquid on a platform to slowly disseminate with wave action. It is important not to let granular formulas mix with the silt or mud, as it will trap the nutrients and keep them from mixing with the water.

Whatever variety you choose, follow manufacturer application directions for the proper amount.

Organic Methods

Experts state that you should avoid fertilizing a pond with fish organically. However, using manure in a planter that is submerged is an effective way of feeding the plant over time. As long as it is mixed well with the soil and topped with stones, the manure will not release instantly but will, instead, slowly feed the plant.

This should only be used at the installation of the plant and future season's feedings can be done with an inorganic formula specially made for aquatic plants and pond life. Never put manure directly into the pond. It will cause too much algae growth which will adversely affect pond and fish health.

What do you do if your water lily has red leaves? Usually, the answer is simple, and the health of the plant isn’t affected. Read on to learn more about red leaves on water lilies.

About Water Lilies

Water lilies are low maintenance plants that grow in shallow, freshwater ponds and lakes in tropical and temperate climates. They can also be grown in buckets or large aquariums. The rounded leaves appear to float on the surface of the water, but they actually grow atop long stalks that extend to roots in the soil at the bottom of the pond.

The plants are peaceful and colorful, but water lilies also serve several important functions in the environment. They provide shade that helps cool the water and keeps fish healthier. The waxy leaves provide shelter for fish and a place for frogs to rest where they are protected from predators lurking underwater. Delicate water lily blooms attract dragonflies and butterflies.

What Causes Red Water Lily Leaves?

Is your water lily turning red? Sometimes, chilly temperatures can cause red leaves on water lilies. If this is the case, the leaves will fade back to green when the weather warms up.

Water lily species vary in color and some have a natural purplish or dark red pigmentation.

Some species, including the hardy European white water lily (Nymphaea alba), display reddish leaves when the plants are young, turning bright green with maturity. Tropical night blooming water lily (Nymphaea omarana) has big, bronzy red leaves.

Water lily leaves may turn brownish if the water is too shallow and the leaves dry out. Generally, the leaves regain their greenish color when the water is at the correct depth. Water lilies prefer a depth of 18 to 30 inches (46-76 cm.), with 10 to 18 inches (25-46 cm.) of water above the roots. 

Water lily leaf spot is a disease that causes concentric reddish spots on the leaves. The leaves will eventually rot and may give the plant an unsightly appearance, but the disease usually isn’t fatal. Just remove affected leaves as soon as they appear.

Is java fern easy to grow? It sure is. In fact, java fern (Microsorum pteropus) is an amazing plant easy enough for beginners, but interesting enough to hold the interest of experienced growers.

Native to southeast Asia, java fern attaches itself to rocks or other porous surfaces in rivers and streams where the strong roots keep the plant from being washed away in the current. Interested in growing java fern for aquariums? Read on for basic information on growing this interesting plant.

Planting Java Fern in a Fish Tank

There are several varieties of java fern for aquariums, including Windilov, Needle Leaf, Fern Trident, and Narrow Leaf. All are unique in appearance, but the growth requirements and care are the same.

Planting in a fish tank is easy and java fern care is uninvolved. The leaves generally aren’t nibbled by fish, but they love hiding in the nooks and crannies between stems and leaves.

If you’re planting a java fern in a fish tank, keep in mind that a larger tank is best because the plant can grow to around 14 inches (36 cm.) tall, with a similar width. Java fern for aquariums isn’t choosy about its surroundings and even grows in brackish water. The plant requires no specialized fish tank equipment. A simple, inexpensive light is fine.

Don’t plant in regular aquarium substrate. If the rhizomes are covered, the plant is likely to die. Instead, attach the plant to a surface such as driftwood or lava rock. Anchor the plants with string or fishing line or use a drop of super glue gel until the roots are established in a few weeks. Alternatively, you can probably purchase a pre-planted java fern for aquariums. Remove dead leaves as they appear. If you notice a lot of dead leaves, the plant may be getting too much light.

If you’re a boating enthusiast or an aquarist, then you’re probably familiar with different elodea plants. There are actually five to six types of elodea. Not all elodea varieties are native to the U.S. Some, like Brazilian elodea (Elodea densa), were introduced and others, such as Canadian waterweed (E. canadensis), have naturalized in other regions of the world. Some varieties of elodea have long been popular fish tank additions or teaching tools.

About Elodea Plants

Elodea is an aquatic plant that is found in ponds and waterways. All varieties of elodea are herbaceous perennials with a spiral pattern of dark green leaves along the stem. All are dioecious, bearing only male or female blooms. Plants reproduce by asexual fragmentation and do so rapidly.

Elodea does have thin, wiry roots that attach to the soil at the bottom of the waterway, but they also grow well floating. Due to their ability to reproduce so quickly, some types of elodea are classified as invasive.

Different Elodea Plants

Some elodea varieties are harmless while others are considered invasive. Many invasive populations have originated from a single, introduced fragment.

Canadian waterweed, for example, is an elodea plant that is native to North America and is considered to be a “safe” variety. Hydrilla or Florida elodea (Hydrilla verticillata) is deemed restricted, growing rapidly and crowding out other aquatic plant species.

Florida elodea has long branching stems with small, serrated leaves. Like other elodea varieties, leaves are set in a whirling pattern along the stem of the plant. Leaf midveins are usually red. It feels coarse to the touch and produces small, white blooms in sets of threes.

This elodea floats on the surface of the water in dense mats and can survive in both flowing and brackish water. It is sometimes confused with American elodea (Elodea canadensis), but the American variety lacks leaf serration on lower leaf midribs and the patterning is in groups of three.

Brazilian elodea is a different elodea plant that, like Florida elodea, has a reputation for clogging up waterways and stifling diverse aquatic plant life. It sprouts from double nodes located along the stems and is spread by boaters who unknowingly carry it from infested waterways to un-infested. Like Florida elodea, the Brazilian variety grows rapidly into mats that choke out native plants and create a hazard for swimmers, boaters, and fishermen.

Types of Elodea Control

Aquatic herbicides are sometimes used to alleviate the progression of different elodea plants, but their use is fairly ineffective. Manual control just breaks elodea into sections that reproduce again. Stocking sterile grass carp is the most effective control method; however, it cannot be used in waterways with salmon or steelhead fish runs.

The most commonly used method of control runs a bit along the honor method and asks that boaters and pleasure craft users inspect their vehicles and remove any elodea before moving on.

Gardening outdoors has its benefits, but aquatic gardening can be just as rewarding. One way to incorporate this into your home is through aquascaping. Read on to learn more about creating an aquarium garden.

What is Aquascaping?

In gardening, landscaping is all about designing your surroundings. With aquascaping, you’re simply doing the same thing but in an aquatic setting – typically in aquariums. This can be a fun way to create an underwater landscape with plants growing in natural curves and slopes. Fish and other aquatic creatures can be included too.

A number of plants can be used for aquascaping. Carpeting plants and mosses are added straight into the substrate to form a lush green carpet along the bottom. These include dwarf baby tears, dwarf hairgrass, Marsilea, java moss, liverwort, and Glossostigma elatinoides. Floating plants provide shelter and partial shade. Duckweeds, frogbit, floating moss, and dwarf water lettuce are ideal. Background plants like anubias, Amazon Swords, Ludwigia repens are good options.

Most fish species work well with these underwater landscapes, but some top choices include tetras, discus, angelfish, Australian rainbows, and livebearers.

Types of Aquascapes

While you’re free to design an aquascape any way you’d like, there are generally three types of aquascapes used: Natural, Iwagumi, and Dutch.

• Natural Aquascape – This Japanese inspired aquascape is just as it sounds – natural and somewhat unruly. It mimics natural landscapes using rocks or driftwood as its focal point. Plants are often used minimally and attached to driftwood, rocks, or within the substrate.
• Iwagumi Aquascape – The most simplistic of the aquascape types, only a few plants are found. Both plants and the hardscapes are arranged asymmetrically, with rocks/stones placed as focal points. As with plantings, fish are minimal.
• Dutch Aquascape – This type puts emphasis on the plants, highlighting different shapes and colors. Many are planted in larger aquariums.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and get creative with your aquascape design. There are many things you can do. For instance, add an aquascape waterfall with small, sandy gravel running down some rocks or, if you are using both terrestrial and aquatic species (paludariums), create small aquascape pools.

Creating an Aquarium Garden

Just like any garden, it’s a good idea to have a plan first. You’ll want to have a general idea about the type of aquascape you’ll be creating, and the hardscapes used – rocks, wood, or other suitable materials. Also, consider what plants you’d like to add, and where you’ll be placing the aquatic garden. Avoid areas with lots of sunlight (promotes algae growth) or heat sources.

In addition to having a plan, you need equipment. This includes things like lighting, substrate, filtration, CO2, and aquarium heater. Most aquatic retailers can help with specifics.

When adding substrate, you’ll need a lava granulate base. Choose a substrate soil that is neutral to slightly acidic.

Once you’re ready to start designing your aquascape, be sure to create defined layers similar to that found in the garden – foreground, middle, and background. Your plants and hardscape features (rock, stones, driftwood, or bogwood) will be used for this depending on the type of aquascape chosen.

Use tweezers to place your plants, gently pushing them into the substrate. Blend plant layers naturally with some dotted amongst rocks and wood.

After your aquascape design is finished, carefully add water, either with a small cup/bowl or siphon so as not to move the substrate. You should allow the tank to cycle up to six weeks prior to introducing fish. Also, allow them to acclimate to the water conditions by placing the bag they came in into the tank first. After about 10 minutes or so, slowly add small amounts of tank water to the bag every five minutes. Once the bag is filled, it’s safe to release them into the tank.

Of course, once your aquascape setup is complete, you’ll still need to keep your plants happy and healthy. Be sure to change your water bi-weekly and maintain stable temps, generally between 78 and 82 degrees F. (26-28 C.). Depending on your plants, you may need to trim on occasion too, and remove any dead or dying foliage. Fertilize only as needed.

You may know elodea waterweed (Elodea canadensis) as Canadian pondweed. It is a popular submerged aquatic plant for water gardens and cool water aquariums, helping to control algae and keep the water clear. However, elodea waterweed is an invasive species when it escapes into the wild. That’s why anyone using this plant needs to learn about controlling elodea and problems that can arise. Read on for more info about this pondweed plus tips on how to manage elodea.

Elodea Waterweed

There’s no doubt that elodea pondweed is a useful plant for those with cool water aquariums and water elements in the garden. The plant absorbs nutrients and, by doing so, it limits algae growth.

Elodea waterweed’s roots are branching and tangled stems, growing over three feet (1 m.) long in cultivation and three times that long in the wild. The roots are packed with drooping green leaves in swirls of three, and the tiny flowers appear in summer and early fall.

Propagation of Elodea Pondweed

Elodea pondweed plants are either male or female and both are required for pollination. Male plants are rare, though, so these plants usually propagate asexually by stems breaking off and rooting.

Once this waterweed finds its way into wild areas, it can and does become invasive. Its beds overwinter in deep waters and its brittle branches are easily detached by any disturbance. New roots develop rapidly from these fragments which form new stands.

Controlling Elodea

Controlling elodea becomes important once you realize the type of damage it does in the wild. The weed forms dense mats in waterways that interfere with any water activity, both recreational and commercial. The dense mats also edge out native plant species, decreasing biodiversity.

Unfortunately, it is harder to start controlling than it is to grow. In fact, controlling elodea is very complicated since most eradication methods involve the loss of plant fragments that allow further spread. That means any attempt to physically remove the plant can result in vigorous regrowth.

How to manage elodea? Different countries try different methods including drying out of bodies of water, using special barges that cut and remove the weed from the water, and chemical or biological controls.

Creating an inviting outdoor space is paramount for many gardeners. While the planting of trees, flowering shrubs, and perennial plants can dramatically increase the appeal of green spaces, some homeowners add a pond to their property.

Ponds or other small bodies of water can create a beautiful focal point that is sure to be the envy of the neighborhood. However, these ponds will require proper care and maintenance in order to truly look their best. This includes the introduction of ornamental plant life to prevent algae growth and aid in water filtration.

One plant, the water poppy (Hydrocleys nymphoides), can be a lovely addition to the backyard waterscape – but what is a water poppy?

Water Poppy Facts

Water poppy floating plants are perennial aquatic ornamentals hardy to USDA zones 9-11. Native to Central and South America, the plant produces a multitude of flat leaves with a glossy texture. Cheerful, yellow flowers spring forth from the mass of foliage when water temperatures reach at least 70 F. (21 C.).

Though the three-petaled blooms only last for one day, plants will produce flowers throughout the entirety of the summer growing season.

How to Grow Water Poppy

Water poppy plants can be grown in any pond with a shallow bottom, as they grow best when submerged about 6 inches (15 cm.) below the surface of the water. Before planting, make certain to check local regulations regarding the introduction of aquatic plants to ensure the plant doesn’t escape the pond.

First, obtain a water poppy plant. These are commonly available through retail pond supply stores and online. Select a location within the pond that receives direct sun, as this is required for the plant to thrive. Bare root water poppy floating plants can be submerged and planted directly into the soil or be placed into pots with soil which can later be sunk into the pond.

Though water poppy care is minimal, the method in which the water poppies are planted will be vital to success. If growing these plants in regions beyond their hardiness zone, gardeners may need to remove the plant from the pond and store for the winter season.

Make certain to store the plant in a frost-free area and keep the soil consistently moist until the chance of frost outdoors has passed in the spring. When the weather has warmed, the root can then be replanted into the pond.

Ponds are popular water features that instill a sense of peace and natural beauty while helping to support a healthy ecosystem. However, without proper care and maintenance, even the simplest pond can become a smelly, brackish pit and a breeding ground for pests including hordes of mosquitoes. 

A successful pond must be kept as clean and odor free as possible, and the best way to accomplish this is with mechanical aeration systems, such as pond bubbler aerators. A bubbler helps to support a healthy environment for aquatic life and keeps your water feature fresh and attractive. What is bubble aeration? Read on to learn about pond bubbler systems.

Pond Aeration Benefits

Pond aeration has many benefits that include the following:

• Improves water quality. Without some type of pond bubbler system, the water soon becomes mucky and oxygen deprived. In time, the entire pond will appear murky. A poorly aerated pond is also prime habitat for leeches. 
• Reduces mosquito hatches. A bubbler in a pond keeps the water moving and serves as an effective means of mosquito control. Without still water, mosquito eggs can’t develop.
• Minimizes growth of algae. Algae can be very destructive when allowed to grow unchecked, competing for nutrients in the water and turning your backyard pond into an ugly swamp. A bubbler in a pond ensures that algae spores are distributed to deeper water where they are deprived of sunlight. Since the water is moving, algae has less time to get established.
• Reduces problems caused by hot weather. When summer weather is hot and the air is still, the upper part of the pond can become much warmer than deeper areas. If warmer water isn’t mixed with cooler water, oxygen levels drop in deeper parts of the pond, which causes the water to become stagnant. Conversely, cooler water may sink to the bottom if the weather suddenly turns cold. 
• Reduces foul odors. A pond bubbler system ensures the water is mixed, which prevents it from becoming stagnant. Without a pond bubbler aerator, the pond may become unhealthy and develop a rotten egg smell.
• Creates healthy habitat for fish and other aquatic creatures. Without aeration, fish can’t breathe and may suffocate, and the entire ecosystem is compromised. A pond bubbler aerator pumps fresh oxygen into the water. 

Powdery thalia (Thalia dealbata) is a tropical aquatic species often used as a showy pond plant in backyard water gardens. They're native to the marshes and wetlands in southern states of the continental U.S. and Mexico. Cultivated powdery thalia plants are readily available online and in brick and mortar pond supply stores.

What is a Thalia?

Sometimes called powdery alligator flag or water canna, thalia is a tall perennial which can reach heights of 6 feet (about 2 m.). These name designations come from the white powdery coating covering the entire plant and the resemblance of its leaves to those of the canna plant.

Due to its exotic look, growing powdery thalia in backyard ponds adds a tropical ambiance to water features. The 18 inch (46 cm.) elliptical leaves impart hues of blue and green as they wave atop 24 inch (61 cm.) stems. The flower stalks, standing 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.) above the leaves, give rise to a cluster of purplish blue blossoms from late May to September.

Powdery Thalia Plant Care

Choose a location with wet soil for growing powdery thalia. They can be planted on the edge of the pond or submerged underwater to a depth of 18 inches (46 cm.). Thalia prefers a rich, fertile loam and does best when planted in full sun.

Powdery thalia plants propagate by underground stems or rhizomes. Growing these plants in containers prevents them from spreading into unwanted areas and overtaking other plants. Potted thalia can also be moved into deeper water for overwintering. Submerging the crowns under 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) of water should provide adequate protection. In areas north of thalia's USDA hardiness zone 6 to 10, container grown thalia can be moved indoors.

Planting Powdery Thalia Plants

Thalia seeds do not germinate well in outdoor conditions, but seedlings can easily be started indoors. Seeds can be collected from flowering plants after the fruit has turned brown. Shaking the cluster will remove the seeds.

The seeds need to undergo cold stratification before sowing. To do this, place the dry seeds in a moist medium and refrigerate for three months. After this, the seeds are ready for sowing. The minimum ambient temperature for germination is 75 degrees F. (24 C.). Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. The seedlings are ready for transplant at 12 inches (31 cm.) tall.

Vegetative propagation is an easier method for acquiring new plants. Offshoots can be removed any time during the year. Simply cut 6 inch (15 cm.) sections of thalia rhizome containing several growing buds or shoots.

Next, dig a small hole which is wide enough to accommodate the rhizome cutting and deep enough to bury it to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm.). Space 2 feet (61 cm.) apart when planting. Young plants are best kept in shallow water with depths not exceeding 2 inches (5 cm.) until they become established.

Although powdery thalia is often thought of as an attractive specimen plant for backyard water features, this amazing plant has a hidden secret. Thalia's appetite for rich, organic nutrients makes it a recommendable species for constructed wetlands and greywater systems. It can handle the influx of nutrients from home septic systems into the ecosystem. Thus, powdery thalia is not only pretty but also environmentally friendly.

What is a floating forest? A floating forest, as the name suggests, consists basically of floating trees in various forms. Floating forests can simply be a few trees in the water or unique ecosystems that host a variety of interesting birds, animals, and insects. Here are a few floating forest ideas from around the world.

Floating Forest Ideas

If you have a small backyard pond, you could recreate one of these fascinating habitats of floating trees yourself. Choose an item that freely floats and simply add some soil and trees, then let it go and grow – similar ideas include floating wetland gardens.

Rotterdam’s Floating Trees

A historic port in the Netherlands is home to a miniature floating forest consisting of 20 trees in the water. Each tree is planted in an old sea buoy, previously used in the North Sea. The buoys are filled with a mixture of soil and ultralight lava rocks.

The Dutch elm trees growing in the “Bobbing Forest” were displaced as a result of construction projects in other parts of the cities and would have otherwise been destroyed. Developers of the project discovered that Dutch elm trees are sturdy enough to tolerate bobbing and bouncing in the rough water and they can withstand a certain amount of salty water.

It’s possible that floating trees, which help to remove carbon dioxide emissions from the atmosphere, may be one way to replace trees lost to shopping centers and parking lots as urban environments continue to expand.

Floating Forest in an Old Ship

A century-old ship in Sydney, Australia’s Homebush Bay has become a floating forest. The SS Ayrfield, a World War II transport ship, escaped a planned dismantling when the shipyard closed. Left behind and forgotten, the ship was reclaimed by nature and is home to an entire forest of mangrove trees and other vegetation.

The floating forest has become one of Sydney’s major tourist attractions and a popular site for photographers.

Ancient Waters

Some scholars believe there may have been gigantic floating forests in the antediluvian oceans. They think the forests, home to many unique living beings, were eventually broken up by the violent motions of rising floodwaters. If their theories are found to “hold water,” it may explain why the remains of fossilized plants and mosses have been found with marine sediments. Unfortunately, this concept is difficult to prove.

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) is also known by the more descriptive name, coontail. Hornwort coontail is an herbaceous, free-floating aquatic plant. It grows wild in much of North America in calm ponds and lakes and has spread to all other continents except Antarctica. Some people consider it a nuisance plant, but it is a useful cover species for fish and aquatic animals.

What is Hornwort?

The name hornwort comes from the stiff protrusions on the stems. The genus, Ceratophyllum, is from the Greek 'keras,' meaning horn, and 'phyllon,' meaning leaf. Plants that bear the surname "wort" were often medicinal. Wort simply means plant. Each plant's characteristics would lead to its individual name. For instance, bladderwort has little bladder-like growths, liverwort looks similar to tiny livers and kidneywort resembles that body part.

Hornwort in ponds protects small frogs and other animals. Fish tank owners may also find hornwort aquarium plants to purchase. While it is useful as an oxygenator for captive fish, it also grows rapidly and can become a bit of a problem.

Hornwort coontail leaves are arranged in delicate whorls, up to 12 per whorl. Each leaf is divided into many segments and features bendable teeth at the midribs. Each stem can grow up to 10 feet (3 m.) rapidly. The stem resembles a raccoon's tail, hence the name, with a rough feel.

After flowering with male and female inconspicuous blooms, the plant develops tiny barbed fruits. The fruits are consumed by ducks and other waterfowl. Hornwort in ponds can be found in water up to 7 feet (2 m.) deep. Hornwort does not root but, instead, drifts around untethered. The plants are perennial and evergreen.

Hornwort Aquarium Plants

Coontail is a popular aquarium plant because it is easy to acquire, inexpensive, grows rapidly, and is attractive. It is used in breeding tanks to hide fry and as an aesthetic touch to aquarium displays.

Best of all, it oxygenates the water and helps prevent algae. This is because it releases chemicals that kill competing species. This allelopathy is useful to the plant in the wild as well. Hornwort in ponds has similar attributes and can survive temperatures of 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 C.) in full sun to full shade.

One of the most difficult aspects of choosing plants for fish tanks or aquascapes is to understand differences between common names and scientific names. While common names can be used interchangeably for different plants, scientific names help us to better identify specific plants. By using the scientific name, growers can be absolutely certain of what to expect.

Belonging to Phylum marchantiophyta, for example, liverworts are a popular addition to water plantings. What are the characteristics of liverworts though? Let’s learn more.

Liverwort Information

Considered some of the most primitive of plants, liverworts consist of about 6,000 to 8,000 species. These non-vascular land plants lack stomata, specialized openings that regulate air flow in the plant.

Upon further research, understanding facts about liverworts may be somewhat confusing due to the large list of names surrounding this simple plant. Liverwort plants generally display one of two growth habits: flattened leaves or a moss-like appearance. The plants get their name from the resemblance to the shape of the liver found in its leaves.

Unlike most plants, reproduction occurs through the development and spread of spores, much like algae.

Where Does Liverwort Grow?

Located on nearly every continent in a diverse array of ecosystems, liverworts are typically found in moist environments. However, their growth and reproduction in salty ocean environments is key.

Growth conditions for liverwort plants most often favor those in which various types of moss and fungi are found. In some cases, liverworts may even form symbiotic relationships with these growths.

How are Liverworts and Hornworts Different?

Learning more about the technical differences between types of aquatic plants is imperative. This is especially true for those who maintain planted aquariums. Choosing which phylum of aquatic plant to incorporate into fish tanks will require familiarity with each type.

While liverworts make unique and interesting choices for saltwater environments, hornworts should only be used in freshwater tanks.

With rising popularity in live plantings, those with aquariums now have more options than ever in working to create stunning visual displays. Research will be key in maintaining both healthy plants and fish.

Marsh seedbox plants (Ludwigia alternfolia) are an interesting species native to the eastern half of the United States. They can be found alongside streams, lakes, and ponds as well as occasionally cropping up in ditches, seepage areas, and retention basins. As a native specimen, seedbox flowers can be used for naturalizing around backyard ponds and water features.

Seedbox Plant Info

Marsh seedbox plants are short lived, perennial members of the evening primrose family. In fact, they are also known as water primrose plants. Other names for the plant include floating seedbox and floating primrose willow.

They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8 and thrive in areas where ground moisture remains constant. Their notable characteristic is a cube shaped seed box which rattles when the seeds are ripe. These seed boxes are attractive additions in dried flower arrangements.

Identifying Marsh Seedbox Plants

Until they produce their characteristic seed capsule, seedbox flowers can be easily overlooked in the wild. Here are some features which can help you identify this species:

• Height: The reddish brown stems can grow up to 4 feet (1 m.) tall and are multi-branched near the top of the plant.
• Leaves: The leaves resemble that of willow and are under 4 inches (10 cm.) long. They grow on short stems and are sparsely arranged along the tall main stem and upper branches.
• Flowers: Seedbox blooms between June and August with July being the norm. The delicate, buttercup-like flowers are short lived with the four yellow petals often dropping the same day as they appear. The flowers are produced on the upper, shortened part of the plant.
• Fruit: The seed capsules are cubical in shape with a pore on the top for release of the seeds. The capsules stay small, averaging ¼ inch (6 mm.) or less in size. Upon maturity the seedbox rattles.

How to Grow a Seedbox

Seedbox flowers are not widely available at brick and mortar nurseries but can be found online from specialty seed suppliers. Seed should be planted in full sun in areas where soil remains consistently moist. The ideal location to plant flowers is alongside ponds, water features, or marshes and bogs. There are no reported issues with disease or insects.

Seedbox plants will self-seed under optimal growing conditions. Gardeners wishing to harvest the seed heads for floral arrangements (or when collecting seeds for the following year) should harvest the heads before the seedboxes break open and the seeds scatter. Ducks and geese will occasionally consume the seeds.

Growing aquatic plants near water provides underwater habitats for many species of invertebrates. These small creatures provide food for fish, frogs, and reptiles. Not only are marsh seedbox plants an unusual specimen species, but they're also an environmentally friendly plant.

Most any experienced gardener could tell you about the diverse microclimates within their yards. Microclimates refer to the unique “miniature climates” that exist due to various environmental factors in the landscape. While it is no secret that every garden is different, these differences can even be found within the same small growing space.

Learning more about how yard structures can impact the climate of the garden will help growers make the most of their plantings. From topographical to man-made structures, there are numerous factors that can impact temperature in the garden. The presence of various bodies of water, for example, is just one factor which can significantly impact the microclimate of an area. Read on to learn microclimate pond conditions.

Do Ponds Create Microclimates?

While it may be obvious that many larger bodies of water like oceans, rivers, and lakes can impact the climate of nearby land masses, homeowners may be surprised to find that microclimates in ponds can also impact the temperature of the nearby garden.

The maintenance of natural ponds or the creation of small ornamental ponds in backyards has become increasingly popular. While these bodies of water are often used as a beautiful focal point in the yard, they can also be quite useful in creating a microclimate. Pond conditions throughout the growing season, regardless of the size, can help regulate temperatures within the small space.

How Microclimates Affect Ponds

Microclimates in ponds depend greatly upon the amount of water present. Ponds and microclimates have the ability to warm or cool areas within the yard depending upon the location. Water has an exceptional ability to receive and maintain heat. Much like concrete sidewalks or roadways, the heat absorbed by backyard ponds can help maintain a warmer microclimate in the surrounding area. In addition to providing radiant warmth in the garden, ponds can also produce heat through reflection.

Though microclimates in ponds can definitely help to improve heating in the garden, they can also provide cooling during the hottest parts of the growing season. Air movement over the pond can help cool areas near the surface of the water and provide much needed humidity in regions that are especially dry or arid.

Regardless of the type of pond, these water features can prove to be a valuable asset in creating a microclimate that is well adapted for heat-loving plants, as well as perennial flowers which may need extra warmth throughout cooler portions of the growing season.

Plants require nutrients to survive and thrive, and giving them fertilizer is one way to provide this. Fertilizing plants in ponds is a slightly different matter than fertilizing garden plants, requiring different products and procedures.

Feeding pond plants is not always a necessity, depending on the condition of your pond. But if you do decide to go ahead, you’ll need to know how to fertilize submerged aquatic plants and when to feed them. Read on for the details of adding fertilizer for pond plants.

Fertilizing Pond Plants

If you have a water element like a pond or lake as part of your garden, you may wonder whether it is necessary to fertilize the water plants. That depends on the quality of the water, just like whether you have to fertilize your veggie garden depends on the quality of your soil.

On the other hand, if you decide to try feeding pond plants, they will probably become happier and healthier. But that’s only if you start fertilizing plants in ponds correctly.

How to Fertilize Submerged Aquatic Plants

Fertilizer for pond plants comes in a variety of forms, just like soil fertilizers. These include liquid, tablets and granular applications. Another way to start fertilizing plants in ponds is to use fertilizer spikes to insert into the pond soil.

If you are wondering what form of fertilizer is easiest to use for a beginner, it might be the specially prepared fertilizer tablets or spikes. You can purchase 10g. pellets of compressed fertilizer for pond plants.

Don’t think of tossing regular soil fertilizer in the water. You can cause great damage to the pond ecosystem by feeding pond plants with products meant for soil, including huge algae blooms to dead fish. Instead, use a specialized fertilizer for pond plants.

Gardeners who opt to start feeding pond plants with a specialize pond product must follow the instructions on the label to the letter. Otherwise, the plants may die.

When to Feed Aquatic Plants

When to feed aquatic plants with the pellets or spikes? Push the appropriate number of pellets several inches into the pond soil when you plant. Be sure they are completely covered with soil to prevent problems with algae bloom. Add new fertilizer pellets every month according to label instructions.

Flowering swamp plants present a good solution for the gardener facing the challenge of a wet, swampy yard. Wetlands are simply another type of ecosystem. With the right plants, those that tolerate wet conditions, you can still enjoy a flowering garden in your backyard swamp.

Growing Wetland Flowers

While it may seem like an ecosystem that is less ideal for plants, a wetland or swamp area is home to a number of native plants, including pretty flowers. Swamp flowers and other plants that are native to your particular area should grow well with little intervention on your part.

The most important thing you can do to grow these flowers successfully is knowing their needs. Some, such as blue flag iris, need a few inches (8 cm.) of water to grow in. Others, like water lilies, root in the mud and float. They need a few feet (1 m.) of permanent standing water to grow.

Choosing Flowers Native to Swamps

Flowers that grow in swamp-like areas are varied and can depend on a particular climate. You can check with your local extension office to make sure the flowers you choose will grow well in your ecosystem and growing conditions. Examples of wetland flowers to try in your swampy garden include:

• Water hyacinth. Hardy to zones 8 to 11, water hyacinth plants have striking pale purple blooms similar in appearance to hyacinth flowers, hence the name. These floating plants require regular thinning to control spread, however.
• Northern blue flag. The blue flag is a stunning iris that is a perennial swamp bloomer. Just watch out for the yellow flag, which is invasive in North America.
• Marsh marigold. Marsh marigold is an early bloomer that produces sunny, yellow flowers as early as March.
• Swamp azalea. For a flowering shrub, choose swamp azalea, a rhododendron relative. It can grow up to 8 feet (2 m.) tall and produces fragrant flowers in white or pink in midsummer.
• Red twig dogwood. Another flowering shrub for wetlands is red twig dogwood. Not only does it produce pretty spring flowers, but it also provides winter interest with its stunning, red branches.
• Joe-Pye weed. While some may consider this a weed, Joe-Pye is more accurately a native wildflower. The plants grow tall, up to 6 feet (2 m.), and topped by impressive clusters of small white or pink flowers.
• Rose mallow. This hibiscus plant produces white or pink flowers. Rose mallow is durable and easy to grow in swamps. 
• Pickerelweed. Another wildflower for wetlands is the pickerelweed. This is a tough plant that is easy to grow. It produces spikes of attractive blue flowers.
• Water lily. For permanent ponds in your landscape, choose water lilies. These flowering plants anchor to the bottom soil and produce large single flowers.
• American lotus. Another anchored floating plant is the lotus. These plants produce striking yellow flowers on the top of tall stems. They may rise a few feet (1 m.) above the surface of the water.

A bog is a natural ecosystem, and if you’re lucky enough to have one on your property, you can enjoy a real native bog garden. If you don’t, you may want to create an artificial bog. Bog garden maintenance can be tricky, so make sure you understand the particular needs of this unique ecosystem.

What Makes Healthy Bog Gardens?

The most defining characteristic of a bog is water. If you have a pond or a natural area that is consistently too wet to grow much, consider turning it into a bog garden. A bog is a particular type of wetland area that builds up dead plant material (mostly moss) and turns it into acidic peat.

Once you have built a bog, it needs certain things to stay healthy. The main need obviously being moisture. You cannot let it dry out. A bog also needs healthy plants and possibly protection from cold in the winter, depending on your climate.

How to Maintain a Bog Garden

Depending on where you live and what your natural ecosystem is like, caring for bogs can require either minimal effort or lots of work. One of the most important aspects of maintaining a bog is keeping it moist. If your area is naturally wet, you may not ever have an issue with this. If your climate leans more towards dryness, however, you may need to water the bog.

A good way to water a bog and keep it saturated is to use a soaker hose. Keep the hose buried a few inches (7.5 cm.) below the ground. A hose every two feet (0.5 m.) is probably adequate. When necessary, you can turn on the water to make sure the bog doesn’t dry out.

In winter, you may need to protect your bog plants from cold. This is especially important in zones 6 and up. Cover the bog in a thick layer of leaf or pine needle mulch before temperatures drop too much. This will protect plants and will rot into the soil to enrich it. Also, remove some of the dead foliage in winter to keep the garden tidy.

More on Caring for Bogs

As with any garden, expect to have to pull weeds as part of regular maintenance. Weeds will be less of a problem in this moist area, but you may find that tree seedlings become a regular nuisance. Just pull them out before they root too deeply.

If mosquitoes become an issue around your bog garden (and they are likely to), a nearby pond can be useful. Fish in the pond will help keep the mosquito population in check. In fact, a bog is a great type of garden to create around the edges of a pond. It is a natural setting for a bog and supports native wildlife, including frogs.

First-time koi pond enthusiasts may have learned the hard way that koi love to browse the plants and roots of pond vegetation. When introducing koi into a pond already established with plants, the browsing may be manageable. But plants added to a pond already filled with koi can be problematic. Koi cannot resist the temptation to eat newly arrived plant delicacies.

What’s a pond owner to do? Keep reading to learn more about how to keep plants safe from koi fish.

Koi Proofing Pond Plants

Koi pond owners do have options regarding the plant decimation. Some enthusiasts simply eliminate plants from the pond, opting instead to landscape the perimeter of the pond only. However, in locations with warm summers, plant cover is essential in keeping water temperature lower and koi comfortable. Plants also provide hiding and spawning areas and assist with filtration.

Maintaining a number of diverse plants in the pond, including surface, emerging, and submerged plants, may prevent widespread foraging damage by koi. Consider a plant such as coontail planted at the bottom of the pond with its roots covered with rocks for protection. For plants with roots below water level and foliage above water, such as water lilies, koi may nibble the roots. Plant them in oversized containers topped off with gravel.

If you add plants to a koi pond when the fish are already present, it is best to add a group of plants at once, rather than one or two at a time. That way, no one plant is quickly consumed by curious koi.

Some pond enthusiasts keep plants safe from koi by enclosing pond plants in a cage-like structure. Materials such as PVC coated wire, plastic mesh, or net are ideal. For floating plants, make a cage that floats. You could even try a floating wetland if your backyard pond is large enough.

Another option is to research plants koi won’t eat. Suggestions include the floating-plant water lettuce, the large-leaved lotus plant, the yellow-flowered water poppy, and the eye-catching umbrella plant. Koi tend to ignore these plants in favor of more palatable choices.

Another tip: Try feeding the fish several small meals a day to help divert their penchant for vegetation.

Taking care to choose the right kind of plants, protecting their roots with gravel, maintaining ample vegetation, and enclosing plants with cages can help your koi coexist with greenery.

If you live in the eastern United States, you may be familiar with golden club water plants, but everyone else might be wondering “what is golden club?” The following golden club plant info contains all you need to know about golden club flowers.

What is Golden Club?

Golden club (Orontium aquaticum) is a native herbaceous perennial in the family Arum (Araceae). This common emergent plant can be found growing in streams, swamps, and ponds.

Golden club water plants grow from a vertical rhizome that has thick roots which expand and contract. These contracting roots draw the rhizome deeper into the soil.

The dark green, erect, strap-like leaves of this water plant float atop the surface of the water. The foliage has a waxy texture that repels water. Golden club flowers are long and cylindrical with an inflorescence of tiny yellow flowers and born off a white, fleshy stalk.

The bag-like fruit contains a single seed surrounded by mucus.

Growing Golden Club Plants

If you have taken a liking to these plants, perhaps you’d like to try growing golden club yourself. They make an interesting addition to a landscape water feature and can also be eaten.

Golden club is winter hardy to USDA zones 5 through 10. They can easily be started from seed. Sow the seed in the early summer.

Grow in containers that have been submerged 6 to 18 inches (15-46 cm.) in a water garden or grow the plant in the mud of shallow areas of a pond. Although it will tolerate part shade, golden club should be grown in full sun exposure for the brightest leaf color.

Additional Golden Club Plant Info

These water plants can actually be eaten, however, caution should be taken, as the entirety of the plant is poisonous. The toxicity is the result of calcium oxalate crystals and can be delivered either through ingestion or contact with skin (dermatitis).

This may cause burning or swelling of the lips, tongue, and throat as well as nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. Contact with the sap may only cause skin irritation. The toxicity is very low if eaten and skin irritation is usually minor.

Both the roots and seeds of golden club water plants can be eaten and are harvested in the spring. The roots should be scrubbed and seeds soaked with warm water to remove any debris. Boil roots for at least 30 minutes, changing the water several times during boiling. Serve them with butter or a squeeze of fresh lemon.

The seeds can be dried just as you would dry peas or beans. To eat them, boil for at least 45 minutes, changing the water multiple times and then serve them as you would peas.

Disclaimer: The content of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using or ingesting ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes or otherwise, please consult a physician, medical herbalist, or other suitable professional for advice.

If you’re looking to liven up your fish tank by incorporating some unconventional aquarium plants, keep reading. The addition of fish tank garden plants really does make the aquarium look better. Plus, plants in an aquarium give your fish friends a place to hide out. What about terrestrial aquarium plants? Are there suitable land plants for aquariums? How about garden plants in an aquarium?

Using Terrestrial Aquarium Plants

The thing about terrestrial aquarium plants is they don’t usually like to be submerged in water and end up dying. House or garden plants in an aquarium may hold their shape for a while, but eventually, they will rot and die. Another thing about land plants for aquariums is that they are often grown in greenhouses and sprayed with pesticides or insecticides, which can be harmful to your fish friends.

Even so, when shopping for fish tank garden plants, you may still encounter terrestrial aquarium plants, land plants being sold for use in the aquarium. How do you spot these types of unsuitable plants?

Observe the foliage. Aquatic plants don’t have a kind of waxy coating that protects them from dehydration. The leaves are thinner, lighter, and more delicate looking than land plants. Aquatic plants tend to have an airy habit with a soft stem that is agile enough to bend and sway in a current. Sometimes, they have air pockets to help the plant float. Land plants have a more rigid stem and lack air pockets.

Also, if you recognize plants you’ve seen for sale as houseplants or that you have as houseplants, don’t buy them unless a reputable fish store will guarantee they are non-toxic and suitable for an aquarium. Otherwise, they won’t survive an underwater habitat and they may even poison your fish.

Unconventional Aquarium Plants

All that said, there are some marginal plants that hold up well in a fish tank. Bog plants such as Amazon swords, crypts, and Java fern will survive submerged, although they will do better if allowed to send leaves up out of the water. However, aerial leaves usually get burned by aquarium lights.

The key to incorporating most of the following fish tank garden plants is not to submerge the foliage. These plants need the foliage out of the water. The roots of land plants for aquariums can be submerged but not the foliage. There are several common houseplants that may be suitable for use in an aquarium including:

• Pothos
• Vining philodendron
• Spider plants
• Syngonium
• Inch plant

Other garden plants in an aquarium that do well with “wet feet” include dracaena and peace lily.

In their natural environment, both herbivorous and omnivorous fish are adept at finding edible plants, and “domestic” fish like fish plant food as well. Whether your fish are in an aquarium or a pond in your backyard, you can provide plenty of aquatic plants for fish to munch on.

Fish Plant Food Info

Edible plants for fish should be sturdy and safe, and if you’re feeding fish plants in an aquarium, they should be attractive to look at, even when they’ve been nibbled on. Plants that fish eat should also be fast growing, but not so aggressive that they take over the water habitat.

Plants That Fish Eat

Below are a few ideas of edible plants for fish:

1. Hygrophila: Hygrophila is a hardy, fast-growing tropical plant. “Hygro” is good for beginners and is readily available in nearly any pet store. Pinch back plants if they grow too fast.

• Duckweed: Also known as “water lense,” duckweed is an attractive plant that grows quickly, especially if exposed to bright light. The small, round leaves float on the surface of the water or just below.
• Cabomba: Cabomba displays beautiful, feathery foliage with interesting, whorled leaves. This plant is available in red and green varieties. Bright light brings out the color. 
• Egeria densa: Egeria densa is a common, fast-growing plant that most fish enjoy. This easy-to-grow plant also helps prevent the growth of algae. This plant should be limited to aquariums, as it can become invasive in ponds or other bodies of water.
• Aponogeton: This plant grows from bulbs, sending leaves to the surface of the water. Aponogeton often produces attractive flowers if light is bright enough. Several species are available.
• Rotala: An undemanding, sturdy aquatic plant with soft leaves that fish love to nibble. Rotala is available in several species, including one that turns bright red if exposed to adequate light.
• Myriophyllum: Myriophyllum is a fast-growing, fan-shaped plant with bright green leaves and feathery red stems. Parrot feather is the most common species used.
• Nymphaea lotus: Commonly known as water lotus, nymphaea lotus is an excellent fish plant food. The plant is also attractive, with fragrant blooms and leaves with reddish brown or purple markings. 
• Limnophila: (Formerly known as Ambulia) Limnophila is a delicate aquatic plant that grows relatively quickly in good light but tends to get long and leggy in too much shade. 
• Water sprite: Water sprite is a lovely aquatic plant that grows on the surface of the water. This tropical plant is not only beautiful but also helps prevent algae. 

Spirulina may be something you’ve seen only in the supplement aisle at the drug store. This is a green superfood that comes in powder form, but it is actually a type of algae. So can you grow spirulina and enjoy its benefits from your own water garden? You sure can, and it’s easier than you think.

What is Spirulina?

Spirulina is a type of algae, which means it is a colony of single-celled organisms that produce foods by photosynthesis. Algae aren’t exactly plants, but there are a lot of similarities. Like our more familiar green vegetables, spirulina is nutrient dense. In fact, it may be one of the most nutritious of all green foods.

Some of the spirulina benefits you may get from supplementing your diet with this green powerhouse include:

• A complete protein from a non-animal source. Just one tablespoon of spirulina powder has four grams of protein.
• Healthy fats like polyunsaturated fats and gamma linoleic acid.
• Vitamins A, C, D, and E, as well as iron, potassium, magnesium, selenium, and other minerals.
• Vitamin B12, which is very hard for vegans to get from plants.
• Antioxidants.

How to Grow Spirulina

You can grow this superfood with a spirulina algae kit, but you can also make your own setup. You’ll need something to grow it in, like a fish tank, water (dechlorinated is best), a starter culture for spirulina, and a couple of small tools for stirring and collecting the algae at harvest time.

Set up the tank by a sunny window or under grow lights. Like true plants, algae need light to grow. Next, prepare the water, or growing medium, so that it has a pH around 8 or 8.5. Inexpensive litmus paper is an easy way to test the water, and you can make it more acidic with vinegar and more alkaline with baking soda.

When the water is ready, stir in the spirulina starter culture. You can find this online, but if you know someone who grows their own spirulina, take a small amount to use as a starter. Keep the water at a temperature between 55 and 100 degrees F. (13-37 C.). Add water as needed to keep it at the same level.

The safest way to harvest spirulina for eating is to wait until the water pH has reached 10. Other types of algae can’t grow in such an alkaline environment. To harvest, use a fine mesh to scoop out the algae. Rinse and squeeze out excess water and it’s ready to eat.

When you harvest spirulina, you’re taking nutrients out of the water, so it is important to add additional nutrient mix each time. You can buy this online from a spirulina supplier.

For beginners and aquarium enthusiasts alike, the process of filling a new tank can be exciting. From choosing fish to selecting the plants that will be incorporated into the aquascape, the creation of ideal aquatic environments requires careful planning and attention to detail. Unfortunately, things may not always go according to plan. This is especially true when incorporating submersed live plants. Here we will learn about fish tank plants to avoid.

What Shouldn’t You Put in a Fish Tank?

Buying aquatic plants for the aquarium can add a unique design to tanks. Not only can live aquatic plants provide natural habitat for fish, but may also improve the overall water quality of your tank. While bright and vibrant foliage is appealing and adds visual interest, owners may frequently find that these are plants that die in aquariums.

When purchasing plants for the aquarium, it is important to thoroughly research each type to be used. Not only will this provide valuable insight into whether or not these are plants that hurt fish, but will also allow greater information in regard to the specific needs of the plant.

Unfortunately, misinformation is very common when purchasing aquatic plants online and in retail stores.

If you have purchased plants that die in aquariums, it is likely that the plant species was not appropriate for the aquatic environment. Many plants that have been produced by large scale greenhouses are better suited for growth in terrariums, or demonstrate an emerged growth requirement. Emerged plants will not grow in aquatic conditions, though portions of their growing season may be spent in water. Complete submersion in the fish tank will only lead to the ultimate decline of these plantings.

Included in plants not to put in an aquarium are those that are obviously non-aquatic varieties. When submerged, these plant types will disintegrate and die rather quickly. Some ill-suited plants which are commonly sold for aquariums include:

• Crimson ivy
• Caladium
• various species of Dracaena
• plants with variegated foliage

By carefully choosing aquatic plants, and with proper regulation of nutrients and atmosphere within the tank, aquarium owners can create a thriving ecosystem of beautiful submerged plants and fish.

Do you sometimes walk through wooded areas near streams, ponds, and bogs, in search of wildflowers that might be briefly in bloom? If so, you may have seen the bogbean plant growing. Or perhaps you’ve seen this eye-catching beauty in a shady, damp spot in other areas.

What is a Bogbean?

A wildflower that needs excessive moisture to exist, you’ll find the bogbean plant (Menyanthes trifoliata) blooming in areas where most flowers would die from overly wet soil. It is an aquatic, rhizomatous perennial plant, returning year after year with white flowers that are enticingly beautiful.

Look for it in its damp, native habitat near ponds, bogs, and woodland soil that remains moist from spring rainfall. It may also grow in shallow water.

Much like a spring ephemeral, the bogbean flower blooms briefly with a group of eye-catching flowers atop a sturdy stem. Depending upon location and moisture, these plants may blossom for a short period during the spring season or in summer. Their striking flowers last only a few days.

Also called buckbean, plants are 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) in height. Purple-tinged, star-like, frilly blooms appear in clusters above three oval, shiny leaves. The leaves are near the ground and flowers of about the same height or slightly taller appear on stalks sprouting from the clump.

Two types of flowers may appear, those with long stamens and short styles, or vice versa. Both are truly attractive when in bloom, however.

Bogbean Care

If you have a consistently wet area with acidic soil in sun or part shade conditions, you may wish to try growing bogbean plants there. You will likely have best results when ordering plants from an online nursery; don’t take plants from the wild.

The shallow end of a water garden might be the perfect spot for this showy mid-spring specimen, or plant nearby in soil that remains moist. Growing from thick and woody rhizomes, bogbean spreads and multiplies. The only care necessary is providing a wet growing spot and keeping its spread under control.

Bogbean Uses

What is bogbean good for? Bogbean grows in many areas of the U.S. and throughout Europe. It produces seeds, called beans. The appearance is like a bean pod, containing the seeds. Uses for the plant are numerous for herbal supplements.

Herbal type uses include those for loss of appetite, as the plant increases saliva flow. It may also be used for stomach issues. Leaves are reportedly good for achy joints from rheumatism, jaundice, and worms.

Leaves of the bogbean are sometimes substituted for hops when making beer. The beans are ground and added to flour when making bread, although they are bitter. Always check with a medical professional before ingesting.

Disclaimer: The content of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using or ingesting ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes or otherwise, please consult a physician, medical herbalist, or other suitable professional for advice.

You may have whorled pennywort (Hydrocotyle verticillata) growing in your pond or along a stream on your property. If not, this is a great time to get it planted.

What is Whorled Pennywort?

Whorled pennywort plants have thread-like stems and disk-shaped leaves. They are similar in size to a half dollar. They are aquatic plants, perfect for adding in the wet areas near bodies of water. These plants sometimes provide food for birds and pond dwellers such as fish, amphibians, and ducks.

Plants may grow into a bush. Stems can reach about 10 inches (25 cm.) in height, but most are shorter. Some grow whorled pennyworts in aquariums and outdoor water features, although it takes regular attention to keep it from choking out other specimens or blocking pump and flow functions.

Whorled Pennywort Information

Information explains Hydrocotyle verticillata has some therapeutic uses. For example, the juice from these plants is used in a range of therapies in various areas. Some use it to treat fever. In India, the juice is mixed with honey and utilized as a cough syrup.

Pounded leaves are used in poultices for wounds and boils. They are used as ingredients for many concoctions, such as with Chinese herbal medicine. Of course, you should always contact a medical professional before ingesting this type of plant.

Whorled Pennywort Care and Propagation

These plants are not fully submersible, leaves should remain out of the water. You may easily propagate by stem cuttings or division of the dense clumps. Taking cuttings, as with many plants, encourages a fuller, more bushy plant.

Existing plants often creep toward the pond or stream. They may even appear without your planting. Expect a few colorful spikelets when growing this plant. Keep an eye on it to make sure it does not grow into unwanted areas. If necessary, it may be better to grow the plant in a container instead to keep it in bounds.

A shady pond is a serene spot where you can relax and escape from the stresses of the day, and an ideal way to provide a haven for birds and wildlife. If your pond needs more greenery or a touch of color, consider a few shade-tolerant pond plants.

Choosing Shade-Tolerant Water Plants

Fortunately, there is no shortage of plants for growing in low-light ponds. Many water lilies, for instance, make suitable shade plants for ponds. Here is a sampling of some other popular shade-tolerant water plants that work well too:

Black Magic Taro (Colocasia esculenta): This lovely elephant ear plant produces dark foliage with a mature height up to 6 feet (2 m.). Zones 9-11

Umbrella Palm (Cyperus alternifolius): Also known as umbrella palm or umbrella sedge, this grassy plant reaches heights of up to 5 feet (1.5 m.). Zones 8-11

Yellow Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris): Producing bright yellow blooms, the marsh marigold plant, also known as kingcup, thrives in marshy conditions or clay. Zones 3-7

Golden Club (Orontium aquaticum): This small plant produces waxy, velvety foliage and spiky yellow blooms in spring. It is also known as never wet plant. Zones 5-10

Watermint (Mentha aquatica): Also known as marsh mint, watermint produces lavender blooms and a mature height up to 12 inches (31 cm.). Zones 6-11

Bog Bean (Menyanthes trifoliata): White blooms and mature heights of 12 to 24 inches (31-61 cm.) are the main highlights of the attractive bog bean plant. Zones 3-10

Lizard’s Tail (Saururus cernuus): A showy, fragrant plant reaching heights of 12 to 24 inches (31-61 cm.), lizard’s tail makes an exceptional addition to shadier spots of pond edges. Zones 3-9

Water Pennywort (Hydrocotyle verticillata): The water pennywort is a creeping plant with unusual, whorled leaves, also known as whorled pennywort or whorled marsh pennywort. It reaches mature heights of up to 12 inches (31 cm.). Zones 5-11

Fairy Moss (Azolla caroliniana): Also known as mosquito fern, water velvet, or Carolina azolla, this is a native, free-floating plant with colorful, attractive leaves. Zones 8-11

Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes): This floating plant displays rosettes of fleshy, lettuce-like leaves, hence the name. Although water lettuce does produce blooms, the tiny flowers are relatively insignificant. Zones 9-11

Natural or man-made ponds in the garden landscape can serve a variety of purposes. While some may choose to create a fish pond, other homeowners may focus more on the aesthetic aspect of this water feature. Regardless, the presence of plant life is an integral part of a healthy pond ecosystem. Aquatic plants, such as the water lily, serve many purposes too. In addition to creating oxygen, aquatic plants provide necessary habitat for wildlife. However, controlling water lilies (and other plants) is especially important when the plant cover becomes too thick.

Water Lily Weed Info

Though beautiful, water lily management is necessary when plants begin to invade the vast majority of the pond. Too many plants growing in the water may be a major cause for concern, such as the reduction of available oxygen (which the plants absorb at night) and negative impact on the overall health of fish. However, water lily management may be somewhat challenging.

How to Stop Water Lilies

As one would imagine, the underwater nature of these plants makes water lily control quite interesting. In most cases, the easiest way in which to manage water lily weed is through prevention. Newly introduced waterlily plantings should always be made in the form of potted plantings, as this will help to reduce the likelihood that the plant will be able to spread through underground rhizomes.

In already established plantings, there are some other options for controlling water lilies. Removing the roots and rhizomes of the plant is possible, however, difficult. In most cases, this process will require tools specifically designed for the removal of aquatic weeds. Care also must be taken, as incomplete removal may cause the spread of the rhizomes.

Many growers choose to implement the use of weed barrier within the pond. Simply, pond weed barrier is placed at the bottom of the body of water after all water lily stalks and foliage have been removed. This barrier does not allow sunlight to reach the rhizomes, thus ensuring that they do not return.

Chemical herbicides are also an option for the elimination of water lilies from ponds. However, if choosing to implement these practices, it is imperative to only use products that have been specifically identified for use in ponds. Before use, always read all precaution and instruction labels in order to ensure its safe use.

Upcycling is all the rage for furniture and indoor accessories, but why not for outdoors? A water feature is a great way to add more interest to your garden space, as well as the delightful sound of flowing, tinkling water. Hit the local flea market or mine your own garden shed to make upcycled water features.

Ideas for a Recycled Water Feature

This is a great DIY project for anyone who likes to tinker with materials and put them together to make something new. Sure, you can buy a fountain from the nursery or garden store, but how much rewarding would it be to make your own creative version. Here are some ideas for old materials you can turn into DIY water features:

• Stack galvanized steel buckets and tubs, barrels, watering cans, or old flower pots you don’t need any more to make a cascading fountain.
• Make a similar water fountain using old kitchen implements, like antique tea kettles, tea pots, or colorful wine bottles.
• Tip an old glass patio table top on its side or use an antique French door to make a modern-looking water wall feature in the garden or on a patio.
• Create a small pond with a fountain out of an old canoe, wheelbarrows, or an antique trunk.
• Try some truly unique features made out of an old upright piano, a beat up old tuba, or an antique farmhouse sink.

What You Need for Upcycled Fountains

To make your own garden fountain or pond requires some basic tools and a little background knowledge. Most importantly you need a small water fountain pump. You can find this at a garden store, usually solar powered so that it will run without an outside power source. You will also need some tools and materials in addition to the unique item you plan to turn into the feature. Depending on how you want to build it, you may need a drill to make holes, metal rods, washers, and nuts to thread different parts together, adhesive, and waterproofing materials to line your fountain or pond. The best part about making upcycled water features is that you have the freedom to be really creative. The sky is the limit, so go to the flea market or antique mall with your imagination and a little bit of cash.

Cattails are classics of boggy and marshy regions. They grow on the edges of riparian zones in moist soil or silt. Cattail seed heads are easily recognizable and resemble corn dogs. They are even edible at certain times of development. Collecting cattail seeds and planting them successfully requires timing and the right conditions. The wind spread seed is fairly adaptable to container growing or you can plant in spring straight outdoors. Read this article to learn what to do with cattail seeds and how to propagate this plant with a long history of use.

Collecting Cattail Seeds

Saving cattail seeds and planting them where you want these fabulous plants helps create a wild animal sanctuary and waterfowl habitat. It is quite easy to do and an excellent way to replant a devastated marsh or waterway. A single cattail can contain up to 25,000 seeds, which can go a long way to repopulating a native species. Some tips on how to plant cattail seeds once you have harvested them, can speed you on the way to a useful and beautiful stand of these one-time native foods. Cattail seed saving was probably practiced by indigenous people for hundreds of years. The plant was a popular food and cordage, and keeping existing stands healthy would have been important. While the plant reseeds itself readily, in disturbed sites, reestablishing a colony may require some human intervention. Saving cattail seeds from wild plants will provide the raw materials for such an endeavor and doesn't require the harvest of more than 1 or 2 seed heads. Cattails need a wet area with low salinity, water flow and plenty of nutrient influx. Seeds will germinate in a wide range of conditions and temperatures provided there is adequate moisture. You may also choose to start seed in containers and plant them outdoors after freezing temperatures have passed.

What to Do with Cattail Seeds

Wait until the seed head has ripened. You can tell when this is by the deep rusty brown color and dry texture of the seed head. Often, the seeds will have started to burst open and show fuzzy white structures which help the seed disperse through wind. The best time for collecting cattail seeds is in late summer to very early fall. Cut off the seed head and separate the seed from the stem. Do this by placing the head in a bag and stripping off the seed into the bag. This can be facilitated by allowing the head to dry for 1 or 2 weeks in a paper bag. Water promotes germination, so soak the seeds in water for 24 hours prior to planting.

How to Plant Cattail Seeds

Compost makes a great medium for seeding cattails. Fill cardboard containers or egg crates with compost that has a third fine sand mixed into it to promote draining. Separate each seed and plant them on the surface of the moistened medium and cover with a fine sift of sand. You can then place containers in a larger container with a level of water that reaches your second knuckle or create a humidity chamber for the plants. To do this, cover the containers with the seed with plastic or a clear dome. Mist plants to keep the top surface of the soil moderately wet. In most cases, germination will occur in two weeks provided temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). Higher temperatures cause earlier germination. Keep seedlings well-watered and transplant them in late summer to a moist location.