Everything You Need to Know to Grow Healthy Daffodils, Year after Year
Daffodils are tough, deer-resistant, and low-maintenance. Master the essentials of soil drainage, bulb depth, and division to fill your garden with gold.
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Daffodils are some of the earliest flowers to appear in the spring. Even if they're poking their heads up through the snow, they're a sure sign that warmer weather is coming.
Once planted, daffodils will more or less take care of themselves, naturalizing and bringing back their cheerful show every year. In this guide, we'll cover how to plant daffodil bulbs at the right time and in the right place. We'll also touch on propagation, problems, and what exactly you're supposed to do after your flowers have faded. So read on to learn how to grow one of the most cheerful types of bulbs out there.
Daffodil Quick Facts
Botanical Name | Narcissus spp. |
Plant Type | Bulb |
Height | 6-20 inches (15-50 cm) |
Spread | 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) |
Light | Full sun to part shade |
Soil | Well-draining |
Hardiness | USDA zones 3 to 8 (Not in the US? Convert your zone) |
Flowers | Spring |
Native Range | Europe, Asia, North Africa |
Daffodil Planting
When it comes to daffodils, timing is everything. Plant your daffodil bulbs in the autumn, once the soil has cooled but before the first hard frost sets in. This allows the bulbs to establish a strong root system before the winter freeze. Even if you miss the window, you can often plant as late as December, as long as the ground is still workable. I personally have planted daffodils after the ground was partially frozen. It wasn't fun, but it did work.
If you plant daffodil bulbs late in the fall, they will probably grow but may have stunted flowers or no flowers at all in the spring. Be patient and give them a season to get settled – they should bloom well the following year.
Daffodil Soil Requirements
When you're choosing a site, prioritize drainage above all else. Daffodils are extremely hardy, but wet feet can be a death sentence for them. If your garden has heavy clay, try amending the soil with compost or grit. Or, to be safer, opt for a container or raised bed instead.
Daffodil Light Requirements
Daffodils love full sun! That being said, they're perfect candidates for spots under deciduous trees and shrubs. That's because they come up so early in the spring, they get all the sunlight they need before the trees leaf out. Once the leaves appear, their shade will help keep the dormant bulbs cool.
While they prefer full sun, they'll still perform well in part shade.
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Step-by-Step Planting Guide
- Choose a spot in full sun or part shade, with well-draining soil.
- Loosen the soil to a depth of about 12 inches (30 cm). If your soil is heavy, mix in compost or grit.
- Dig a hole 3 times as deep as the bulb is tall. Space bulbs 3-6 inches (7.5-15 cm) apart.
- Place the bulb pointy end up, flat/rooted end down.
- Cover the bulb and lightly firm the soil with your hand.
- Water thoroughly.
- Add 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of mulch.
- Wait until spring!
How to Care for Daffodils
Daffodils require very little active care. Once they come up in spring, all you really have to do is enjoy them.
Watering Daffodils
Outdoor daffodils don't necessarily need watering at all. They're susceptible to root rot, so overwatering is more dangerous than underwatering. As long as you're getting somewhat regular rain during their growth period in spring, they should be fine on their own.
If your daffodils are up and the weather is unseasonably dry, it's a good idea to water them occasionally. Just make sure the soil doesn't get waterlogged.
Fertilizing Daffodils
As the flowers begin to fade, fertilize daffodils with a light application of a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer – this will help the bulbs recharge for the following year. This Bulb Tone fertilizer from Amazon is a perfect choice. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen – they'll encourage extra foliage growth and leave the bulb with less energy for next year's blooms.
Post-Bloom Daffodil Care
The most critical part of daffodil care actually happens after the flowers are gone. You should deadhead spent daffodil blooms as they fade, to keep the plant from wasting energy on seed production.
It's vital, however, to leave the foliage until it withers and dies back naturally – a process that usually takes about six weeks. After daffodil flowers are gone, these leaves keep photosynthesizing and storing up energy for the next season. Cut back the leaves too early, and you're sabotaging next year's flowers.
The Perils of Daffodil Braiding
You may have seen daffodil leaves braided or tied up in knots – some gardeners do this to give their gardens a "tidier" look. Don't do this! It seriously reduces the surface area of leaves that can absorb and photosynthesize sunlight, and it can lead to stunted or missing flowers, also known as daffodil blindness.
If you want to hide fading daffodil foliage, intersperse your bulbs with perennials that will fill in throughout the spring and camouflage the wilting leaves.
It's okay to prune daffodil foliage once it's turned brown and brittle. I like to give it a gentle tug – if it comes away from the ground easily, it's ready to go. If there's some resistance, I leave it to fade some more.
Daffodil Dormancy
After the foliage has faded completely, daffodils enter their dormant period. The bulbs will stay underground, unseen, until the following spring. While dormant, daffodils are remarkably drought tolerant, so resist the urge to water! They actually prefer to stay dry during the heat of the summer.
Daffodil Care Calendar
| Row 0 - Cell 0 | Spring | Summer | Fall | Winter |
Plant | Row 1 - Cell 1 | Row 1 - Cell 2 | ✓ | Row 1 - Cell 4 |
Mulch | Row 2 - Cell 1 | Row 2 - Cell 2 | ✓ | Row 2 - Cell 4 |
Fertilize | ✓ | Row 3 - Cell 2 | Row 3 - Cell 3 | Row 3 - Cell 4 |
Deadhead | ✓ | Row 4 - Cell 2 | Row 4 - Cell 3 | Row 4 - Cell 4 |
Remove foliage | ✓ | ✓ | Row 5 - Cell 3 | Row 5 - Cell 4 |
Daffodil Varieties
When most people think "daffodil," they picture the standard yellow trumpet. If they have a wild imagination, they might see a white and orange variety. In fact, the Narcissus genus is very diverse – some varieties of daffodil are tiny, some are multi-flowered, and some have so many petals that they look more like dahlias.
Here are some of the most popular daffodil varieties:
- Classic Trumpet Daffodils: These are the quintessential spring flowers with a central trumpet. ‘Dutch Master’ is the gold standard for large, sturdy yellow blooms that reliably return year after year.
- Large-Cupped Daffodils: These are popular because they're incredibly hardy and come in the widest range of colors. Cultivars like ‘Ice Follies’ start with a yellow cup that matures to a soft white, creating a beautiful two-toned effect.
- Double Bloom & Frilly Daffodils: For a high-drama look, Double Daffodils produce extra layers of petals in the center, often resembling peonies or gardenias. The popular cultivar ‘Sun Catchers' boasts mountains of deep golden petals.
- Miniature & Dwarf Daffodils: Standing only 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) tall, mini daffodils are perfect for rock gardens and front-of-border displays. The classic ‘Tete-a-Tete’ is a garden favorite for its reliable, multi-flowered stems.
- Poet's Daffodils (Narcissus poeticus): Also known as Pheasant's Eye, these are some of the most fragrant and late-blooming varieties. They feature icy-white petals and a tiny, flat yellow cup with a distinct red rim.
- Jonquil Daffodils: These are prized for their intense fragrance and their ability to produce multiple small flowers on a single stem. ‘Quail’ is a popular golden-yellow variety that's exceptionally heat-tolerant.
How to Propagate Daffodils
After 3-5 years of happy blooming, you may notice your daffodils producing more foliage and fewer flowers. This is because the original bulbs have produced so many offsets that they've gotten crowded, and it's a sign that you should divide them.
To propagate the daffodils by division, wait until the foliage has started to yellow. Then carefully lift the bulbs with a garden fork. There should be a cluster of bulbs, including some large bulbs with smaller offsets attached. With your hands, gently pull these offsets away from the parent bulb. Plant them right away at the same depth in a new location. Replant the parent bulbs in the original spot.
Daffodil Winter Care
In USDA Zones 3-8, daffodils are perfectly happy staying in the ground all winter. In fact they require a chilling period of several weeks to trigger flowering. All they need is a few inches of mulch to provide extra protection against temperature swings and soil heaving, where the ground expands and contracts and actually pushes the bulbs toward the surface.
If you live in zone 9 or higher, outdoor daffodils won't be able to get that essential chilling period. In this case, you'll either have to treat them as annuals or force them. To force daffodils in warm climates, wait until the foliage has died back, then dig up the bulbs. Store them in your refrigerator for 10-12 weeks to simulate winter, then replant them outdoors in late autumn.
Just make sure to keep the bulbs away from fruit – fruit emits ethylene, which will kill the flower bulb!
Common Daffodil Problems
Daffodils are famously pest-resistant, mostly because they contain a toxic alkaloid called lycorine. This makes them taste terrible for deer, rabbits, and even squirrels, who seem born to dig up and steal flower bulbs.
Daffodils aren't invincible, though. Here are some common daffodil problems:
- Narcissus Bulb Fly: This insect's larvae burrow into the bulb, causing the plant to produce only a few spindly leaves or none at all.
- Daffodil Blindness: This is the term given to daffodils producing healthy foliage but no flowers. This can happen because the bulbs were planted too shallowly, the foliage was cut back too early, or the bulbs are too crowded. Luckily, all three can be fixed easily!
- Root Rot: This happens when the soil becomes waterlogged. It results in stunted, withered, or yellow leaves.
- Narcissus Yellow Stripe Virus: Stripes of white or yellow on daffodil leaves spread and become necrotic, eventually killing the entire leaf. There's no cure, and affected plants should be removed and destroyed.
How to Grow Daffodils in Containers
Daffodils are very well suited to container life, both indoors and out. If you're growing daffodils in containers, the most important thing is to make sure the container has drainage holes, and the potting mix is well-draining. Since pots are more exposed to the elements than the ground, you may need to wrap the container in burlap or move it to a sheltered spot like an unheated garage during the harshest part of winter.
How to Grow Daffodils Indoors
It's possible to grow daffodils indoors, but they do need a chilling period in order to bloom. To achieve this, you may have to force the bulbs.
Forcing Daffodils
Forcing daffodils indoors is easy, as long as you give them the necessary chilling period. It's possible to buy pre-chilled daffodil bulbs, like these from Amazon. These can be planted straightaway and will bloom in a few weeks.
If you have regular, unchilled bulbs, you'll have to start the process about four months ahead of your desired bloom time, then follow these steps:
- Fill a pot with well-draining potting mix to about 2 inches (5 cm) from the rim.
- Crowd several daffodil bulbs in the pot, so they take up most of the surface of the soil.
- Add more soil, so that just the pointed tips of the bulbs are exposed to the air.
- Water thoroughly.
- Place the pot somewhere cold – either a refrigerator or outdoors (in cold areas), sunk into a hole and covered in mulch.
- Wait for 10-12 weeks.
- Move the pot to a cool room (50-55 F or 10-13 C) for two weeks.
- Begin watering again.
- Move the pot to a warmer room and watch for growth.
If you don't want to deal with chilling requirements, you can always force paperwhite narcissus instead. Paperwhites are a sub-species of daffodil that, unlike their cousins, don't need a cold period to bloom.
To force paperwhites, simply nestle the bulbs in a shallow bowl of pebbles and water. In a few weeks, they'll produce fragrant white flowers.
Daffodil Companion Plants
Since you have to leave its foliage to die back naturally, good daffodil companion plants are those that grow to fill in the space in mid to late spring to act as camouflage.
Some good choices are hostas, daylilies, peonies, and bleeding hearts, all of which have a similar growth habit that takes over the spotlight just as the daffodils retire.
Lasagna Planting
If you want nonstop color all spring long, you should try lasagna bulb planting.
In the fall, dig a hole (or start with a container) at least 3 times as deep as your daffodil bulbs, and place a couple daffodil bulbs at the bottom. Cover them with soil, then place a layer of tulip bulbs. Cover those with soil, and add a final layer of muscari or crocus bulbs. Fill the hole in the rest of the way.
Come spring, each layer of flowers will bloom in succession, giving you long lasting color in the same spot.
Daffodil Frequently Asked Questions
Are daffodils poisonous?
Yes, all parts of the daffodil plant are poisonous, both to humans and animals. This is because it contains an alkaloid compound called lycorine, which can cause vomiting and stomach cramping. The bulb is the most toxic part.
Can I plant daffodil bulbs in the spring if I forgot to plant them in the fall?
You can plant daffodil bulbs in the spring – just don't expect flowers until next year. Daffodil bulbs require a 10-12 week chilling period in order to bloom. Plant them in the spring and they'll likely grow right away but produce only foliage. They'll flower the following spring after the natural chilling period.
Daffodil Quiz
Daffodil Care Essentials
- Want to force daffodils but don't have time to chill? Buy these pre-chilled daffodil bulbs, available on Amazon.
- Keep your garden blooming for months with this special 100 day mix from Burpee. Made up of different varieties of daffodil, it guarantees daffodil blooms for 100 straight days.
- Give your daffodils a boost every spring with Bulb Tone fertilizer from Amazon.

The only child of a horticulturist and an English teacher, Liz Baessler was destined to become a gardening editor. She has been with Gardening Know how since 2015, and a Senior Editor since 2020. She holds a BA in English from Brandeis University and an MA in English from the University of Geneva, Switzerland. After years of gardening in containers and community garden plots, she finally has a backyard of her own, which she is systematically filling with vegetables and flowers.