Amy Draiss
If only plants could talk and tell you they feel. Of course, the more you spend time caring for your favorites, the more you will get a sense of when plants are happy or not. But if one day you spot a potted plant surrounded in dropped leaves or multiple sightings of yellow or drooping foliage, it’s understandable to panic. This is a common worry in fall, especially, and can come as a shock after the vibrancy and vitality of earlier months.But before you wonder if your buddies are on their way out of the eternal sliding door and turning up their toes forever – take a breath, as they may just be putting their feet up (figuratively speaking) and taking a little siesta.
It can be tough to tell if plants are dying, or just entering a phase of dormancy. Indeed, what is dormancy in plants? Put simply, it is the natural resting phase where growth slows or pauses. It often coincides with plants overwintering, and is definitely something you’ll see a lot as fall kicks in. The whole idea of dormancy can seem strange to the uninitiated. It doesn’t always affect all plants the exact same way. Indeed, some plants might not even go dormant at all. But if your plant pals are looking a little peaky, what you mistake as decline or illness may just be your plant’s way of telling you that it’s tired and needs to recharge ahead of the new year.
So if you’re not sure if your plant is dying or just having a snooze, this guide can help you decide if dormancy is happening for your overwintering plants. Here’s how to read the signs and listen to your plant with a more relaxed approach to seasonal slumbers, how to tell the difference between dormancy and decline, and what to do next.
Key Signs Your Plant Is Dormant and Not Dead
Seeing your plant outside of its normal celebratory phase or glory days can be deeply unsettling, so it’s understandable why you would suspect the worst. But at this time of year, the chances are that plants (at least, perennials, exotics, and common houseplants) are not preparing to meet their maker. So having a better understanding of dormancy is good not only for your plants, but also your nerves. Dormancy does not equate with fall distress for plants – it’s just nature’s way of slowing down.
So what is a dormant plant, as opposed to one that is struggling or declining? Think of plant dormancy as your plant pressing the pause button on growth. It is responding to cooler temperatures, shifts and drops in daylight, and possibly soil changes, and deciding to conserve energy until things pick up again. It’s the plant’s version of hibernation – a survival strategy that keeps things ticking over with the minimum of effort until growing conditions improve. In other words, it’s rest not ruin.
All that big growth that we associate with spring and summer inevitably stops for key perennial staples. Active photosynthesis and new leaf growth will dwindle and your plant will divert energy into storage rather than new shoots, foliage, and blooms. With the onset of fall, chances are you will have moved key tender perennials, exotics and houseplants indoors for winter. Where you haven’t brought plants indoors, perennials left outdoors will similarly prepare for the cold season. Shorter days, chillier days and nights, and periods of drought will all signal that it’s time for plants to rest.
Plants that snuggle up and hit ‘snooze’ include many outdoor perennials, bulbs, and deciduous shrubs and trees. Houseplants may not go fully dormant and might just slow right down, but you may see the same signs. However, certain tropical plants (kept indoors) may keep going strong, as long as conditions stay warm and bright.
A potted plant moved indoors for winter may exhibit signs of a mini-dormancy, which is basically less growth. While outdoors, leaves shed in profuse displays, branches and stems look bare, almost naked, and the dormancy phase is palpably felt, if not always clear to distinguish from plant failure. So how do you know your plant is taking a break, and that’s not a cause for alarm? Here are 5 ways to tell – and exactly what to do next (which may well be absolutely nothing at all!).
1. Bare Stems or Leaf Drop with Flexible Growth
If your plant has dropped leaves or looks bare, don’t automatically reach for the compost bin. When your plant sheds its leaves in autumn or after flowering, that’s often a cue it’s resting. Where plants are dormant, the stems will feel firm and slightly bendy, but won’t snap. You might spot tiny buds or nodes hiding along the stem. Gently scratch a small section of bark or stem with your nail — if it’s green beneath, it’s alive and all is well, so just water sparingly until growth resumes. There’s only a problem where the stems are brittle, snap easily, look dried out or hollow.
- Common dormancy examples: Deciduous trees and shrubs such as hydrangeas, roses, and maples naturally lose leaves in autumn as temperatures fall. Indoor ficus species (like Ficus benjamina) and plumeria often shed leaves indoors when light levels fall.
- Plants that shouldn’t do this: Evergreen houseplants like snake plants, ZZ plants, and rubber plants rarely drop all their leaves. Sudden leaf loss may suggest stress, not dormancy. Low light can exaggerate leaf drop. A full-spectrum LED grow light (like the Glowrium Grow Light from Amazon) maintains steady light levels indoors.
2. No New Growth But Roots Still Healthy
It’s easy to mistake a lack of visible growth for death, but the real story is underground. Growth stopping isn’t always bad; it might just be dormancy. When the plant is dormant, the roots are pale, firm, cool to the touch and slightly moist. Remove the plant from its pot carefully (or scoop into the ground) and inspect the roots. Firm and pale means healthy roots. Dark or mushy means rot, while bone-dry and hollow indicates underwatering.
If they’re alive, keep gently watering, very sparingly. Don’t overwater in dormancy; just keep soil barely moist. Repot or trim only if roots show signs of rot. A handy tool here is a soil moisture tester such as the Raintrop 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon, which can help you identify whether the soil or compost is too wet or too dry. A soil moisture meter can help prevent both extremes, telling you when to water without guessing.
- Common dormancy examples: Perennials like hostas, peonies, and daylilies go completely bare above ground in fall, but their roots stay alive underground. Bulbs such as tulips and daffodils die back to the soil line and rest until spring.
- Plants that shouldn’t go root-dormant: Tropical houseplants like pothos, monstera, or philodendron keep low-level root activity year-round indoors. If they stop growing entirely, check temperature, light, or pests. A total halt could indicate light, water, or pest issues.
3. Slowdown Matches Season or Light Conditions
Sometimes things slow down for a reason. If your plant’s slowdown aligns with shorter days and cooler nights, that’s dormancy doing its job. Slowdown happens predictably in autumn and winter or during dry spells or drought. Are the daylight hours shrinking? Is the room getting cooler? If yes, then it’s likely dormancy.
However, if growth halts unexpectedly in high summer or under ideal indoor conditions, something may be wrong, such as pests, overwatering, or nutrient issues.For indoor humidity issues (which can stress plants), try a plant humidifier like the 4L Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier from Amazon to raise humidity for houseplants and indoor plants. Dry winter air can make plants appear sicker than they are. Check other environmental cues, and adjust watering, access to light, or feeding accordingly.
- Common dormancy examples: Outdoor herbs like mint, oregano, and chives naturally slow down and disappear in winter cold. Succulents and cacti (especially aloe and echeveria) often pause growth in winter if kept cool and dry, storing energy in their fleshy leaves.
- Plants that shouldn’t pause now: Winter bloomers like cyclamen or Christmas cactus wake up in fall and winter. If they’re sleepy, they might not be getting enough light or water.
4. Leaf Discoloration That’s Even, Not Patchy
Sometimes fading foliage is just a natural sign of rest. As part of dormancy, leaves may yellow or brown evenly and drop neatly – this means the plant is wrapping up a phase. So if you see a soft, uniform leaf fade to yellow or brown, that is usually harmless. You should only remove leaves that are obviously decaying. For dormancy, let nature take its course and leave any healthy faded leaves alone.
However, watch out for uneven spotting, mold, or fuzzy growth, which suggests disease or pests. Patchy spots, black patches and sticky residue all signal pests or disease. For fungal issues, try Bonide Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide from Amazon. Good airflow can also go a long way to help reducing the risk of recurring issues.
- Common dormancy examples: Deciduous houseplants like hibiscus or coleus may yellow evenly before resting. Outdoor shrubs like spirea or clematis show even, golden autumn colouring as they shut down.
- Plants that shouldn’t show even browning: Evergreens such as jade plants, palms, and ferns shouldn’t go fully brown. Uneven or patchy marks usually mean dryness, sunburn, pests or possibly overwatering.
5. Slow Revival When Conditions Improve
Yes, this one marks the end of the presumed dormancy phase for most plants, but it still helps to get extra proof it actually was dormancy. Come spring (or better light), take this test as part of your spring checklist. When warmer weather, brighter light and longer days come back, new buds or shoots should appear. Dormancy officially ends when light and warmth return. When the revival begins, treat potted plants to some Miracle-Gro Potting Mix from Amazon to ensure soil is fresh and well-draining. You can also apply a slow-release feed like Osmocote Smart Release Plant Food from Walmart, when new growth appears.
If after one full growing season, conditions don’t improve, your plant may have passed. Telltale signs will be no green beneath the bark or outer surface, no bud swelling, and no root activity. Try the scratch test and the root test again before giving up. Give it a full season, as some plants wake slowly. Try a gentle feed and brighter light to encourage regrowth. If you aren’t seeing signs of life within a few weeks of spring, don’t give up too early: many perennials, bulbs, and shrubs are late risers. Patience is your best gardening tool, and many plants just need a little time.
- Common dormancy examples: Hardy perennials such as coneflowers, lavender, and black-eyed Susans re-emerge once the soil warms. Bulbs like amaryllis and tulips burst back after their quiet period.
- Plants that shouldn’t take that long: Fast-growing indoor plants (like spider plants, peace lilies, and philodendrons) shouldn’t need months to restart. If there’s still no growth in spring, reassess root health and environment. You may need to repot or refresh the soil.
Don't Forget…
You’re not the only worried grower who’s hovered anxiously over a quiet looking specimen and asked, ‘Is my plant dead or dormant?’ But remember, patience is your superpower. With observation and gentle assists through the slower months, you can get a better sense of your plant’s changing and slowing rhythms. Knowing the difference between dormancy and decline can give a newfound appreciation for the hard work your plant buddies put in from one year to the next. After all, given all those months of delighting you with verdant abundance and often dazzling displays, haven’t your green darlings earned a little nap time?
Dormancy isn’t a sign of trouble, it’s nature’s reset button. So wise up to plants that look dead but are not – and please don’t bin those plants before their time! Give gentle support: correct lighting, and moderate watering. Check for the green beneath the bark, peek at the roots, and trust that sometimes, the best thing you can do for plants is simply let them sleep. They’re sure to come back stronger than ever when the growing season returns once more.
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