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Queen Bumblebees Need Your Help in February – Give Them a Lifeline with These 3 Simple Ideas and Help Your Backyard Thrive

A queen bumblebee near you is emerging from hibernation – and whether or not she survives the next few weeks determines whether key plants get pollinated this summer. Here’s how to save lady bumble

queen bumblebee on yellow catkin flower
(Image credit: Rosliak Nataliia / Shutterstock)

February might feel dead in the garden. Nothing’s blooming yet, the ground is cold and hard, and honestly, it’s tempting to stay inside, acting like spring's never coming. But tucked somewhere in your yard, perhaps in an old mouse hole or under a pile of pine needles, a queen bumblebee stirs after several months underground. Her stomach is empty, and without help she will perish – no colony, no workers, and no pollination for your backyard veggies and flowers come summer.

As the foundress, needing to start an entire colony from scratch, the bumblebee queen bee has a big responsibility on her shoulders. Unlike honeybees, which have a hive full of sisters to keep them cosy all winter, the bumblebee queen is a solo survivor. If she doesn't find nectar in the first few days after emerging, she’ll die. We might not know it, but we rely on bumblebees for the success of all manner of crops and blooms, so her survival is monumental.

Attracting pollinators to your yard starts way earlier than you might think, and February is key. A bumblebee queen bee surviving these first hungry weeks could be the difference between a productive garden and a failing one. This stage of a queen bumblebee’s life is one of high stakes drama. Think of her as a hardworking mom-to-be on a solo mission. She’s counting on you to keep her safe, as she gathers her strength for the months ahead. Up for the challenge? Here’s how you can help protect your queen bumble to survive and thrive.

Why February is Tricky for Bumbles

Winter hit hard, and Queenie buried herself somewhere protected – under leaf litter, tucked in a crack in a stone wall, or in the loose soil of a forgotten planter. She stayed there for months, surviving on fat reserves built up last fall. She's been producing a natural antifreeze (glycerol) in her blood to keep from freezing solid during those sub-zero nights.

But now, those reserves are running dangerously low, so she emerges – hungry, exhausted, and completely alone. Temperatures are just barely warm enough to get her moving again. The problem is timing. She wakes up when the sun hits a certain angle, but many flowers haven't caught up and most plants haven’t bloomed yet. The right bumblebee-friendly garden isn’t just about picking flowers they like. It’s about making sure your queen is well serviced and safe, as she navigates these next few vulnerable weeks out there in your yard.

queen bumblebee looking for pollen

(Image credit: Andi111 / Shutterstock)

Even on a mild February day hitting 50°F (10°C), a bumblebee queen is out there flying and burning energy fast. If your garden looks like a wasteland with nothing flowering, she’ll exhaust herself searching for fuel, and never make it back to start her nest. This is the make or break moment for the whole season's pollination, and most gardeners have no idea it's happening. And the thing is, it’s quite easy to take steps to help out your resident queen. Here’s what you can do now to keep her safe.

1. Provide Early Blooming Fast Food

queen bumblebee sitting on yellow catkin flower

(Image credit: HWall / Shutterstock)

The biggest help for queen bumbles is simply having flowers open the moment she wakes up (preferably long before February runs out). A handful of plants do bloom right on cue in late winter, exactly when queen bumblebees need fuel most.

Of course, because the US spans so many USDA climate zones, February can look different in Maine than it does in Georgia. In the south/west, look for native manzanita or Oregon grape (mahonia). Mahonia pumps out bright yellow clusters all winter that queens spot fast. You can buy New Life Nursery ‘Funky Flow’ Mahonia as a live plant from Amazon.

In the north/midwest, focus on hellebores (also known as Lenten roses). Their nodding heads protect the nectar from winter rain and snow. There are some beautiful hellebore varieties available at Nature Hills, or you can buy Perennial Farm Hellebore ‘Rose Quartz’ as a live plant from Amazon. These hellebores start in February and keep going for weeks, and their nodding flowers hold plenty of nectar.

queen bumblebee sitting inside crocus flower

(Image credit: Thijs de Graaf / Shutterstock)

Winter heather (Erica carnea) is a lovely choice everywhere, and stays covered in blooms straight through the coldest stretch and on into spring. Using a raised bed like the Vego Classic Rolling Raised Bed from Amazon is a great way to keep these early bloomers in well-drained soil, preventing the wet feet that can kill winter plants.

Crocus and snowdrops pop up late January into February in most places, delivering critical early nectar. Native willows flower ridiculously early as well, and draw bumblebees before much else shows color. Natives settle in quickly and bloom reliably year after year. Plant a mix early, if the ground is workable, or mark it for fall so they're ready next February.

2. Keep a Messy Yard Space

queen bumblebee crawling on leaves in yard

(Image credit: Distracted_by_Bugs / Shutterstock)

Late winter brings a strong urge to tidy up, but raking can be a death sentence for a sleepy or resting bumblebee. Queens love to nest in "edge" habitats – places where the lawn meets the woods, or under the base of a thick hedge. Leaf litter and hollow stems are where queens overwinter. They tuck into garden debris for months, and clearing it all away too early destroys hibernation spots before they've emerged.

So instead of a full-scale cleanup, leave at least one corner deliberately messy. Try to leave several piles of untouched leaves under shrubs. These provide the perfect insulation for a queen who might need to dive back into cover if a late-season frost hits. She often looks for old rodent burrows, so if you see a small hole in the ground, don't fill it in! It’s prime real estate for a new colony. If you’re not sure about a particular pile, sneak a closer look with a Jumbo Magnifying Glass from Amazon.

A pile of leaves under a shrub, some old logs, last year's stalks standing – all can be precious. It costs nothing, yet it shelters queens still sleeping or resting between flights. Skipping the full cleanup is honestly one of the most effective things any gardener can do in February. Remember, the yard that helps her survive becomes the yard that thrives all summer.

3. Rescue a Stranded Queen

bumblebee feeding on sugar water on spoon

(Image credit: Sarah Biesinger / Shutterstock)

If you spot a queen crawling slowly on a path, wings barely moving, don’t fear the worst. She’s likely just cold and running on empty. Because she is so heavy, she can't fly if her body temperature drops. This is your chance to be a hero and come to the rescue of your queen.

Mix a teaspoon of white sugar into a tablespoon of warm water. Offer it in a shallow dish, a bottle cap, or on the spoon. Don't pour it on her, just place it close enough to reach. Also, don’t use honey, as it can harbor bee diseases. Watch closely: and you might see her tiny tongue (proboscis) dart out to lap up the energy.

Give her half an hour in the sun, if possible. Most queens perk up and fly off after this little drink. If she's still grounded after an hour in decent warmth, gently move her to a dry shelter. She may simply need a bit longer. Once she is ready, she’ll take off to find a permanent nesting site.

Avoid the Early Season Pesticide Trap

queen bumblebee sitting on winter honeysuckle flower

(Image credit: Vivian Russell / Alamy)

February and March are when many gardeners reach for sprays to deal with scale or aphids. This is the most dangerous time for a queen bumble, because she is the only one. If a worker bee dies in July, the colony survives. If the queen dies in February, the entire future generation dies with her. At this time, queens are flying, foraging, and vulnerable in ways they aren't in summer, when colonies are large and spread across wide areas. February is the worst possible time to spray anything.

Even "bee-safe" products can harm a solitary queen, searching for nectar on treated plants. Skip pesticides until colonies are well established – late April at the earliest, in most regions. Deal with early pest problems by hand-picking or using water sprays. The trade-off is obvious: a few aphids on spring growth versus losing the pollinator your entire garden relies on.

Introducing predatory ladybugs like Buddy Bugs Live Ladybugs from Amazon might help to control numbers. You can also try Nature’s Good Guys Beneficial Nematodes from Amazon, which target pests in the soil without harming the queen bees resting above ground.

dahlia with two bumblebees sitting inside

(Image credit: Elizabeth Debenham / Alamy)

Plan Ahead for a Season of Bumbles

Don't rest on your laurels after February. As the hellebores fade, you'll need your blueberries or serviceberries to take over. This ensures the queen’s first batch of workers has plenty of food when they emerge in late spring. Bumblebee colonies need steady nectar and pollen in the months ahead. A yard that thrives is one that has a relay race of blooms and bee treats from spring to fall. Pollinator seed mixes like Burpee Wildflower Seed Bags from Amazon give continuous color. Here are a few more key ways to keep your hopeful bumble community happy:

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Tyler Schuster
Contributing Writer

Tyler’s passion began with indoor gardening and deepened as he studied plant-fungi interactions in controlled settings. With a microbiology background focused on fungi, he’s spent over a decade solving tough and intricate gardening problems. After spinal injuries and brain surgery, Tyler’s approach to gardening changed. It became less about the hobby and more about recovery and adapting to physical limits. His growing success shows that disability doesn’t have to stop you from your goals.

With contributions from