What to Do With Amaryllis in October – Get These 6 Things Right for Gorgeous Holiday Blooms

October is a busy month for amaryllis. If a bulb has been resting dry in a closet or basement since late summer, it's close to being ready for another growth spurt. Other pots spent the summer on a deck or sunk into a garden bed, and those have different needs. What you do with amaryllis in October sets up this winter's flowers.

Amaryllis care this time of year depends on where the bulb spent the summer. Store-bought holiday amaryllis are Hippeastrum, tropical bulbs native to Central and South America, and frost will kill them. Soggy mix is the other big danger, since it can rot the bulb. For a dormant bulb, the main job is picking the right week to start it. A plant coming in from outdoors usually needs a rest before it will bloom again.

From the day it's potted and watered, a bulb usually needs six to eight weeks to flower, though some bloom faster and others lag. That puts mid-to-late October right in range for December flowers. Pot up a second bulb a week or two after the first, and the color can carry on into January – handy, since it also raises the odds of a bloom on Christmas morning. Here are the key steps to take to ensure holiday flowers.

1. Wake Dormant Bulbs at the Right Time

Stored bulbs benefit from a cool, dry rest before you encourage them to grow again, usually for about eight to 10 weeks. A bulb that went into storage in late August is probably ready now, while one stored in late September has only had a few weeks.

A green tip pushing up from the bulb's neck is a good sign that growth is restarting, although you don't need to wait for one to appear. Give the bulb a gentle squeeze, too. A healthy bulb should feel firm and solid, much like a good onion. Soft spots or fuzzy mold can indicate rot, particularly if the bulb feels mushy underneath. If it's still firm and healthy, it can stay in its old pot as long as the potting mix is in good condition.

2. Bring Outdoor Amaryllis Indoors Before Cold Weather

Amaryllis can't take frost, and temperatures under about 35°F (2°C) can injure the plant. Across much of the North, frost has already arrived by mid-October, while in warmer parts of Zone 8 and farther south, bulbs planted in the ground can often stay put under 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm) of mulch. Bring potted bulbs inside when frost is in the forecast.

While you're moving your plants indoors, check the bulbs for signs of damage. Narcissus bulb fly (Merodon equestris) larvae sometimes tunnel into bulbs left outdoors over summer, and a bulb that gives under your thumb may be infested or rotting.

Once your potted amaryllis are safely indoors, think about how to prepare them for winter. Unlike bulbs bought specifically for Christmas flowering, those that have spent summer outdoors aren't necessarily on track for holiday blooms. If the foliage has naturally died back, a cool, dim rest at around 50 to 55°F (10–13°C) for eight to 10 weeks can help prepare them to flower again, although blooms may not appear until late winter. If the leaves are still green and healthy, however, there's no need to force dormancy.

3. Repot Only When Needed

An amaryllis flowers well in a snug pot, and a bulb can usually go three or four years before it needs a bigger one. A bulb pressing against the pot's side is one sign it's time to repot an amaryllis; roots poking out of the drainage holes are another. Replace old mix that stays wet for days, too.

The new pot should be only 1 to 2 inches (2.5–5 cm) wider than the bulb and about twice as tall, with a drainage hole. A fresh mix, like Espoma Organic All-Purpose Potting Mix (available on Amazon), gives the roots a clean start. How deep should the bulb go? At least the top third should stay above the soil line.

4. Start Watering Gradually

Water the pot well right after planting, then let it drain thoroughly. The bulb has no leaves yet and uses very little water, so you probably won't need to water again for at least a week. Check the mix first, though, and only add more water when it's starting to dry out. Keep it lightly moist rather than wet, and pour around the edge of the pot instead of directly onto the bulb.

When new growth reaches 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm), the plant gets thirstier, so water whenever the top inch (2.5 cm) of the mix feels dry. The pot should never sit in standing water. A decorative outer pot with no drainage hole, such as this terracotta bowl planter from Wayfair, looks nicer than a saucer and can conceal the nursery pot inside. Just remember to tip out any water that collects.

5. Move It to a Bright, Warm Spot and Turn the Pot

While the stalk and leaves develop, amaryllis grow best at about 70 to 75°F (21–24°C) in a south-facing window with at least four hours of direct sun, away from heat vents. Days are short by late October, though – pale, floppy leaves are usually the first sign a window is coming up short.

On gray days, screw a full-spectrum LED grow bulb into a lamp near the plant. Home Depot carries one with a standard base. Give the pot a quarter turn every few days so the stalk grows straight. Once the buds swell, a tall stalk can get top-heavy and tip over. An inexpensive set of bamboo plant stakes with clips, like these from Amazon, will hold it up. Push the stake in near the rim, away from the bulb. The open flowers also last longer in a cooler spot out of direct sun.

6. Begin Feeding Once Growth Starts

So why not feed the bulb right away? Fertilizer on a bulb with no leaves can kill the roots, and nothing is growing yet to use it. If the flower stalk pushes up first, which happens often, keep waiting until the leaves join it. From there, a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at about half strength every two weeks or so is plenty. Espoma organic indoor plant food, available on Amazon, is an even 2-2-2 formula. Keep feeding it after the flowers fade while the leaves rebuild the bulb for next year.

An amaryllis stalk can grow noticeably from one day to the next, and it's hard not to check on it every morning. After the flowers fade, cut off the stalk once it yellows and keep the leaves growing in a sunny window through spring and summer. Come next October, the same bulb can be ready for this list all over again.

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