Can a Bird Fit Through the Branches? This Tried and Trusted Fruit Tree Pruning Rule is Still a Classic

Many home gardeners feel anxious about winter-pruning fruit trees like apples and pears. Many new growers have searching questions – like, how much do I take off? What if I cut too much? These fears often result in timid trimming, which can leave a tree more prone to disease. If you’re staring at an overgrown tree and nervously cradling pruning shears in bemusement, this may help clear the way for you.

The "bird in a branch" rule is one of those unusual expressions that has been around for a long time – for a good reason. This homespun rule comes from folklore, and it’s an easy way to grasp core pruning basics regarding how much of your apple or pear tree to trim. Since late winter is the ideal time to prune these trees, now’s the time to master the essential rules for pruning apples and pears. So let’s dive into the wisdom behind this curious expression.

Folklore of the Flying Bird

In yesteryear, grandparents passed on their gardening tips to children and grandchildren through stories that were easy to remember. That still happens in Europe, but less so in this country. So you may have never heard the folklore of the flying bird – but it’s definitely worth keeping in mind for fruit tree pruning.

This gardening adage suggests that a bird should be able to fly through an apple tree without its wings touching a branch. UK horticulturist Monty Don is an advocate for this classic fruit tree pruning trick, which indicates that a pigeon should easily get through the center of the tree without graze or incident. It relies on the tree having a goblet or open vase shape.

While a pigeon is the standard, some old-timers make the distinction of a small bird for younger trees and a wood pigeon for mature types. It provides a perfect visual goal when pruning a fruit tree. You aren't just cutting wood; you are creating flight paths that allow maximum air and light to penetrate the central space. With this maxim to hand, let’s consider how we tackle the canopy, and why now is the time to do it.

Why February is the Sweet Spot

Gardening experts don’t always agree, but almost all agree that deciduous trees should be pruned during dormancy. So if you've been staring at the jumbled branches of your weary looking apple tree, the time is right for kickstarting healthy growth.

The best time for pruning is between the moment the leaves fall in winter and the moment new leaves appear in spring. In February, the tree is in its deepest sleep, but the sap-rise of spring is just weeks away, and the trim won’t stress the trees. Plus, although spring hasn’t yet sprung, the days are getting longer, and warmer weather is around the corner. The cuts will have time to heal before it’s time to grow again.

This timing is strategic because of plant hormones. By pruning now, you redirect auxins (growth hormones) to the remaining buds, ensuring that when the tree wakes up, it puts all its energy into quality fruit rather than a tangle of weak twigs. The cuts have time to callous over before spring pathogens wake up. So, back to those birds…

The Magic of Sunlight, Air, and Sugar

Most gardeners agree that plants have many kinds of magic. One of them is the process of photosynthesis, where plants convert sunshine, carbon dioxide from the air (CO2), and water from rain into glucose (sugar) and oxygen. This is how the tree fuels its growth – and it’s a big part of how we get the oxygen we need to breathe.

Opening up the canopy of the tree, so a bird could fly through without touching a wing against a branch, is the key to this process. An open-center pruning strategy allows air and sunlight to pass freely through the canopy and reach the fruiting spurs deep inside the tree. Without this light, the interior becomes a dead zone, where fruit won't ripen and fungal diseases like apple scab can thrive in the stagnant, damp air. So that open shape is crucial to preventing disease and topping up the fruit size.

Which Fruits Benefit from this Prune?

The best pruning system for stone fruits is called the open center (also known as the vase shape). Pruning to this system results in a vase-shaped tree, easy for a bird to fly though. This really benefits stone fruits like apricot trees, nectarines, peach trees, plum trees, and tart cherries. It keeps the center sun-drenched.

Mature apple and pear trees naturally want to grow tall with a central leader (one main trunk), but the bird rule still applies. You want well-spaced scaffold branches for these trees. Think of it as a multi-story apartment building. Every floor needs a clear view of the sun. If it's too crowded for a bird, it's too crowded for the sun.

Apples and pears are fine for late winter pruning with the flying bird trick in mind. Stone fruits like cherries, apricots, and so on should not be pruned while the tree is dormant – it is best to cut those in summer. But you can cut apples and pears in late winter using this method. Here’s how to prune your tree with the flying bird trick.

Choose the Right Tools

If you have an overgrown tree you need to prune, you’ll need the right tools. To get the job done without tearing the bark, you need sharp, professional-grade steel. Here are the best-in-class options:

Try the Flying Bird Trick

Taking a saw to a beloved tree can feel like surgery. But remember: you aren't hurting the tree; you are liberating it. Grab a trusty pair of gardening gloves before starting your pruning. Make sure they are comfortable and well fitting, like Arm Protecting Gloves from Uncommon Goods.

1. Take a Long Look

Don’t just jump in with a pruning saw. Walk all the way around the tree. You should also climb up on a ladder and look at it from a height. Use a sturdy tripod ladder like the Werner Fiberglass Type 1A Tripod Ladder from Lowe’s. Identify dead, damaged, or diseased wood, known as the 3 Ds. Clearing these will free up energy for healthy parts, and the tree's true framework emerges clearly for smarter decisions.

Look for water sprouts, too – those vertical, thin shoots that look like whip-sticks. They suck energy and block bird flight. You want to encourage the tree to make horizontal branches primed for fruit. The branches must arc away from the trunk, rather than cross through the middle. They should also be low enough to make harvests easy.

2. Cut Out the Bad Stuff

Don't try to fix it all in one go. The golden rule is never remove more than 30% of the canopy in one year. If you go overboard, the tree will panic and produce a forest of water sprouts next year. Attack the most crucial problems first, and if you have to, postpone the rest until the following year.

Remove your 3 Ds, as well as crossing branches: If two branches rub together, they create a wound. These are the “flight path” branches that will stop your pigeon flying through! Pick the strongest of the two, and remove the other. Also, remove branches that grow inward. Locate the main scaffolding branches that form the vase. Cut out any vigorous upright shoots on the inside of the main scaffolds.

When cutting a branch, don't cut flush against the trunk. Leave the small wrinkled swelling at the base of the branch. This is where the tree’s natural healing cells live. For any high branches, use long reach bypass pruners like Corona Long Reach Cut 'n' Hold from Amazon, perfect for loftier pigeon paths. Also, trim out any suckers around the bottom of the trunk, and take out any branches close to the ground.

3. Call Your Trained Bird

Once you’ve finished, step back. Think about the next visiting bird. Can you imagine a pigeon flying through the middle? If you don't have a well trained bird to demonstrate, then a hat toss is a good test. Throw your cap through the branches (or if you have a drone, try that). If your bird or hat gets stuck, your tree is still too dense and more cutting is needed.

Common Mistakes with This Method

• Don't Lion's Tail: It’s a common pruning mistake to strip all the small inner twigs and leave only a tuft of leaves at the very end. This makes branches heavy, imbalanced, and prone to snapping.
• Don't Leave Stubs: Exposing a 2-inch (5 cm) stub means it will rot before it heals. You should always cut back to a bud or a main branch for healthy cuts and faster healing.
• Don't Prune While Wet: Pruning during rain can spread fungal spores, which will compromise the health of your apple or pear tree. Instead, you should wait for a crisp, dry February day.

After-Pruning Care

Forget the pruning paint: science shows it traps moisture and encourages rot. Let the tree air-dry. However, sanitize your pruning tools with isopropyl alcohol between trees to ensure you aren't spreading fire blight or other nasties. You can buy Epic Medical 70% Isopropyl Alcohol from Amazon. It’s also a good idea to give your fruit trees a drink after pruning,

Hold off on that high-nitrogen fertilizer until you see fruit set – otherwise, you'll just be pruning off all that new green growth again next year. However, it’s fine to give your apple tree a light mulching after pruning, to help it retain a steady soil temperature and water moisture.

Use leaf mold, straw, well rotted manure, or wood chips. You can buy Brut Organic Aspen Mulch from Amazon for an organic option. Make the layer 2-4 (5-10 cm) inches thick and add it in a donut shape, leaving a space around the trunk to avoid bark rot.

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