Amaryllis is a popular flowering plant during the winter holidays. It is easy to grow the first time around, and it produces large, trumpet-shaped blooms that bring plenty of "oohs" and "ahhs" from visitors. But the prospect of forcing a second bloom cycle brings a cold chill to many who contemplate the task. But it is possible to keep your Amaryllis blooming year after year.
I think I have finally mastered the process of reblooming an Amaryllis. The main issue is keeping an eye on the calendar so you know when to move it outdoors, when to bring it back inside for dormancy, and when to wake it up again. I have found, too, that fertilizing the bulb while it is outside for the summer is important. I tend to forget fertilizing plants, so the first time I attempted to rebloom an Amaryllis, it didn’t get any fertilizer, and I didn’t get a second bloom.
I have several now that I put through the paces each summer, and last year, for example, four out of five rebloomed. One even flowered in December and again in July!
My Tips To Restore Your Amaryllis Flowers
My first tip for growing Amaryllis is to buy a couple new plants after Christmas when they are 50 to 75 percent off. Those have usually started growing in the box, so pick the ones that aren’t completely covered by cardboard and are getting light.
Since I have several by summertime, I plant Amaryllis outdoors to see if it will come up the next spring. Those who live in USDA zones 8 and above can successfully grow an Amaryllis in the ground for a show each spring.
I have been experimenting with the process for several years now, and this is how to get your Amaryllis to bloom again.
What to Do With Amaryllis After Flowering
Once the blooms have faded on your Amaryllis, cut the blooms off so it does not go to seed (which will hinder bulb regeneration). Do not remove the rest of the stalk because as long as it is green it will help with photosynthesis. Move the pot to a sunny window and continue to water when the top of the soil feels dry. The idea is to keep it going until it warms up outside (no freezes expected) and you can move it out. It will continue to produce leaves indoors. If the leaves fade and turn yellow, do not worry. Just pull or clip them off and new ones will grow.
When all chances of a freeze are gone, move it outside to a sunny patio. To prevent foliage burn, start out in a partly shady area first, then gradually increase the light to full sun by the end of the week. If the foliage starts showing white spots, move it back to a shadier spot for another week.
Keep it watered as the soil dries, and remember, in warmer climates, you will need to water containers more often outside than when it was inside. Start fertilizing your Amaryllis, too. I add slow release, balanced fertilizer granules such as 10-10-10 to the container, following the package directions for how much and how often. I generally apply it about two times during the summer but it depends on how many months the Amaryllis is outside before you bring it back indoors. Instead of slow release, you also can use an all purpose houseplant fertilizer every month according to directions. You can find a good 10-10-10 fertilizer on Amazon or your local garden center.
Keep watering until it is time to bring the Amaryllis inside for a dormancy period if you want to force it to bloom during winter. In my USDA zone 6 garden, I bring it indoors toward the end of August to overwinter the Amaryllis. That gives it about a 12-week dormancy period and another 4 to 6 weeks to bloom. Be sure you bring it in before the first frost, though, because it will not survive a freeze.
To force dormancy, quit watering a few days before you bring it inside so it isn’t wet. Bring it indoors and store it in a dry, warm, dark place such as a closet. Plan on leaving it there for 10 to 12 weeks, and mark your calendar so you don’t forget the bulb. It will take another 4 to 6 weeks after that before it blooms so figure that in if you want it to bloom by December. I am just as happy with January flowering as it brightens up a dreary time of winter.
What to Do With Amaryllis During Dormancy
While the Amaryllis bulb is stored, do not water the pot. (I have read that if storage space is an issue, you can remove the bulb from the pot, store it, then repot the Amaryllis with a good soil when you bring it out.) Find a unique an beautiful pot for your Amaryllis from Terrain.
Check the pot every few weeks to remove any foliage that has died back. That is all you need to do until the 12 weeks are up. If you notice new growth before 12 weeks have passed, go ahead and bring it out.
Bringing it Back to Flower
To initiate blooms, after 12 weeks, bring the potted Amaryllis back into the light and start watering again. Give it as much light as possible, such as in a south-facing window. When the bloom stalk emerges, you can move it to a cooler location so the flowers will last longer.
I have noticed with the first bloom cycle after purchasing a bulb, the flower stalk comes up first, then the leaves. However, when reblooming an Amaryllis, just the opposite occurs. The leaves come up first, then the bloom stalks. So do not be alarmed if you see leaves first. The stalk and leaves also may come up at the same time.
You can add fertilizer after bringing it out of storage, but I have not done so, and they have been blooming.
If it doesn’t flower and you want to try again next summer, you can use a different fertilizer or add it more often. Also, be sure it is getting full sun and adequate water during its summer outdoors.
Keeping This Going Year After Year
You can continue the cycle of moving your Amaryllis in and out for years. They don’t mind being a little rootbound, so don’t be in a hurry to repot to a larger container. The bulbs will multiply, though, so when that happens, you may need a larger container. It is best to repot after a dormancy period.
When it is necessary to repot, use a commercial potting soil, with some added perlite to help drainage. Carefully remove the bulb and shake off excess soil. Add potting soil to the bottom of the new container and add the bulb, making sure the top of the bulb will be 20 to 30 percent above the soil line. Fill in with potting soil and water well.
